Your Federal Quarterly Tax Payments are due April 15th Get Help Now >>

SUGAR by runout



             A 15inch doll made from broadloom cotton, wild silk and nets

Look at all your pattern pieces carefully before you start.
The outline is the sewing line for all the pieces.
For machine sewing always use a small stitch -size 1 —1 1/2
This is template sewing—sews around the pieces on the line BEFORE cutting out the
Trace or photocopy all your pattern pieces onto plain paper and cut out.
Make sure you put the grain arrows on pattern pieces in the same direction as the
Use a good quality polyester thread for machining.

Place the front and back pieces onto doubled ‘flesh’ cotton fabric and draw around with a
mechanical pencil. The top of the head is marked ‘T’.
Machine the CF seam and the CB seams, leaving the back opening.
Cut out the pieces with a 1/2 -1/4 cm seam allowance. Pin together the back and front
matching the top and lower seams. Machine together the side seams taking extreme care
to be accurate. Turn the head right side out.

 You could trim the seams a little to make sure they are under 1/2 cm. don’t snip the seams
as this will create lumps when stuffing.
 Stuff the head firmly and evenly making sure the stuffing goes into the nose.
When you think the head is stuffed sufficiently, close the opening with pins to do the

Mark the position of the features with pins using the diagram to help with the proportions
of the face.
 For sculpting use strong quilting or extra strong upholstery thread and a fine long
darner. Use about 1 metre of thread. Secure the thread at the back of the head with a
couple of stitches. Push needle through head and out at 1.
Making a small stitch put needle in at 1 and out at 2. This makes the bridge of the nose.
With each stitch manipulate the stuffing into the nose with your needle or fingers.
Push needle in at 2 and out at 1, make sure this is a firm stitch.
Push needle in at 1 and out at 4 (nostril)
Push needle in at 4 and out at 2.
Push needle in at 2 and out at 3 (nostril)
Push needle in at 3 and out at 6.
Push needle in at 6 and out at 8.
Push needle in at 8 and out at 5.

Push needle in at 5 and out at back of head.
Make a couple of stitches to fasten off.

The sculpting stitches need to be pulled firmly to form the face shape but not too tightly.
Diagram 1

The colouring is done with fine liner pigment pens, white gel pen and blusher for cheeks.
Begin by marking out and outlining the features with a vanishing line pen. This makes it
much easier to get the position and size of the features correct. This face is very simple
and as long as you get the features positioned to start with it is actually quite easy to get a
successful result.
Using the fine liner pigment pen in black or brown, draw around the outline of the eye
and the pupil.
Fill in the pupil with black leaving a highlight the top quarter LHS of the pupil. With a
blue pen outline the iris and then fill in with strokes of colour leaving a highlight also on
the top LHS quarter. You can make the colour of the iris shaded from darker to
lighter—this looks more natural. You can draw in a second line above the eye shape for
the eye socket. This is not essential. Now draw in the eyebrow with the black liner pen.
Use the white gel pen to colour in the eye whites—put a couple of coats on. Shade in
above the eye with blue pencil, leaving the highlight in the centre.
Next draw in the eyelashes, longer on the upper lid and smaller on the lower lid.
Put in two dots with brown or black pen for the nostrils.
With the red liner pen draw in the centre line of the mouth, then draw the top lip and last
the bottom lip.
Fill in with red strokes leaving a highlight on the LHS of upper and lower lip. As with the
iris, fill in the lips shading from dark to light. To finish use a brown liner very sparingly
to put in a little definition on the centre line but be careful not to overdo this or it can

‘bleed’ and spoil the mouth.
Colour the cheeks with blusher or pencil crayon.
Now put your head(s) to one side and make the body and limbs.
Diagram 2

BODY Diagram 3
The body is made from a piece of ‘flesh’ for the top section of body and the plain blue
silk fabric for the bodice and lower body. Prepare a piece of cotton 30cm (12 ins.) x
10cm (4 ins.) and a piece of blue silk fabric 30cm (12 ins.) x 20cm (8 ins).
 Seam the piece of cotton and the piece of silk together on the 30cm (12 inch) side.
Fold the piece in half with the seam horizontal and with seam edges on outside.
Cut out the inside of dart shapes from paper pattern. Place the front piece on the fold and
back piece adjacent. Mark around the pattern pieces onto the fabric placing the top of
bodice mark onto the seam and mark the darts.
Sew around the back body shape on the CB line, leaving the opening for stuffing. Now
cut out with 1/2 cm (3/16 ins) seam but leave 1 cm. (3/8 in.) allowance at opening. Cut out
the front piece and machine in darts on back and front. Pin together the back and front
pieces matching the side seams very carefully. Machine right round the body. Turn right
way out and start stuffing. Take a chenille stick, fold in four, place in the neck and stuff
around it. This will keep the neck stiff. Then stuff the remainder of the body so that it’s
very firm. The stuffing should fill the form so make sure you have firm shoulders and
hips to hold the arms and legs. Close the back opening with ladder stitch.

Diagram 3

BOOBS Diagram4
Mark out 2 pieces on single blue silk fabric. Cut out leaving a 1cm (1/4 inch) seam
allowance. Machine the seam and pin onto the body front positioning them evenly with
the seam matching the dart and remembering to leave space for the arms. Ladder stitch
in place leaving a small opening at the bottom. Use this to stuff the boob firmly
and ladder stitch closed.
Diagram 4

ARMS Diagram 5
The fabric pieces for the arms are made from a flesh cotton piece for the hand and lower
arm and a cotton stripe fabric piece from the elbow joint upwards.
 For this prepare a piece of flesh cotton 25cm(10 ins) x 15cm(6 ins) and a piece of striped
cotton 12 cm(41/2 ins) x 25cm(10 ins) with stripes running with the12 cm side. Seam
together along the 25cm (10 ins) side as for the body. Fold with right sides together and
place pattern pieces onto doubled fabric, remembering to put ‘elbow’ mark on seam.
Mark around both pieces and sew around the outlines very accurately leaving opening for
stuffing. Trim seams down to 1/2 cm (1/4 inch).
Turn both arms right side out and run a tool around the seams to flatten out. Cut two
pieces of chenille stick about 10cm (4 ins) long and fold in half. Turn down the sharp

ends. Put this piece into the thumb going into the wrist. Stuff into the hands and thumb
around the chenille stick, making sure you go into the thumb and stuff the wrist firmly.
Stuff up the arms to about 1cm. below the elbow mark.

Take a length of extra strong thread and a darning needle. Fasten invisibly at back of
elbow and then wind around the arm three or four times to make the joint. Fasten off
neatly. Fill up remainder of arm into the top section. When firmly filled close opening
with ladder stitch, very neatly.
Mark out the position of the fingers with pins and top stitch to form the four fingers.
Both arms are the same.
Diagram 5

LEGS Diagram6
Draw onto doubled green silk fabric and sew around both side seams leaving opening at
top of leg and toe open. Cut out and trim side seams to 1/2 cm (1/4 ins) seam allowance.
Fold toe with seams matching and draw a nice ‘foot’ shape onto the silk. Seam this and
trim. Turn and smooth out seams. Stuff feet and ankle firmly making sure to get into all
the corners. Stuff to 1 cm. below the knee and make knee joint exactly as the elbow.
Stuff up to about 11/2 cm. below the top and close opening with ladder stitch.
Diagram 6

Use a long doll needle and put through the hip of the body with a leg on either side and
hold in place. With another long needle and a long piece of thread fasten securely in
body at one hip and go backwards and forwards through these pieces with a button on the
outside of each leg. Pull firmly each time you go through the body. Go through about 3
or 4 times and fasten off securely and neatly.
Diagram 7

The arms are attached in exactly the same way as the legs with a button joint. Use an
extra strong thread which goes back and forth 3 or 4 times and through a button on each
shoulder. Start with a metre long piece of thread and a long doll needle. Attach to inside
the top of the arm and go through the body to other side, through the top of the arm and
then through the button. Go back again to the other side and through second arm and
button. Go back and forwards through the body and arms 3 or 4 times as for legs. Pull
firmly each time and fasten off securely and neatly.
This will allow movement of the arms.

You have a metre of white cotton lace. Colour this with any fabric dyes or pens you
have. I have dabbed on blue, green and yellow. Iron this to fix colour. Cut 2 pieces
10cm (4 ins) long and machine into circles for the elbow frills. Run a gathering thread
around the flat edge and place around elbow. Pull up to fit and tack in place. Cut 2
lengths of orange ribbon 30cm (12 ins) long and tie around each elbow finishing with a
bow. Catch with a stitch.
Cut a piece of lace 30cm (12 ins) and fit around the neckline, pinning and tucking where
necessary. Tack in place.

Cut out a piece of white/cream net 28cm (11 ins) x 70cm (30ins) and double so that it is
14cm (51/2 ins) deep and press. Put a double gathering thread around the folded edge
and place around the doll’s hips. Overlap the two side edges at the back. Tack in place.
Next cut a piece of silver net 18cm (7 ins.) x 70cm (30 ins). Fold lengthways so that one
side is 10cm (4 ins.) and the other 8cm (3 ins) and press. Run a double gathering thread

around the folded edge and put onto the doll on top of the white net in exactly the same
Use the remaining lace to trim around the top of the skirt by gathering to fit and tacking
in place.

Remove pins from head and make a good space in the stuffing in the head opening. Push
the neck into the space in the head. And adjust so that the head is in a good position. Pin
in place pushing the turnings of the head in. Attach the head with strong thread and
ladder stitch. Make sure it is securely sewn.
Diagram 8

The hair is made from a 50 gm. Piece of wool tops in turquoise, 7mm (1/4 in.) satin
ribbon in green, blue and orange. Also 1cm (1/4 ins.) strips of silks and net fabrics cut
from the fabrics that you have used for the body.
Cut a number of fabric strips, and 30cm (12inch) lengths of ribbon. Holding all these
different materials together wind them around a card or book of 20cm (8”). Remove from
this and push around by hand to evenly position the different yarns etc. Make the depth
of the piece about 10cm (4”). Machine across the centre of the depth of hair two or three
times with a matching thread. Cut the loops on both sides. Pin to the head and stitch
down the centre with very small stitches in matching colour. Now you can trim it to size
as you want and dress it with a ribbon or some other ornament.
Diagram 9

Cut 2 lengths of both blue and green ribbon each 70 cm (28 ins) long. Holding a blue and
green piece together, wind around a foot and criss-cross up the ankle to the knee. Tie at
the knee in a bow and catch with a stitch.

Lastly, sew the pearl beads around the neckline at about 1cm (1/4 ins) intervals. Add one
pearl on top of the bows at the elbows and knees. Make a pearl necklace to place around
the neck joining when it’s on and sew down at back of neck.

Your doll is now finished and I hope you have enjoyed making her.
Any materials, tools and equipment required are available from me as details below:

If you require any help or advice please contact me:
Jan Horrox Cloth Dolls,
128. Benhill Rd, London. SE5 7LZ
Tel/Fax 0207 207 8095



To top