The North Shore by runout


									                                      On the Water   n   105

               Ke`e Beach (

                 TAYLOR CAMP

                                                               The North Shore
Right before Ke`e beach is where Taylor Camp used
to be. The camp is named for Howard Taylor, who
owned the land. Yes, this Howard Taylor just hap-
pened to have a very famous sister named Elizabeth.
Taylor Camp was, for all intents and purposes, a
hippy commune in the late 1960s and early 1970s.
During this time, many of the hippies heard that you
could be in paradise and live off the land and they
went to Hawai`i in droves. The state eventually con-
demned the property in 1977. Taylor Camp is actu-
ally where the puka shell fad began.
The story goes that a girl at the camp strung to-
gether shells to make an anklet. Howard then gave
one to his sister, who then wore it in public and cre-
ated the puka shell craze to the point where puka
shells were selling for $6 a pound in 1974.

   Captain Sundown, Hanalei, % 808-826-5585, www., has a few snorkel tours to
   choose from on their 40-ft catamaran. The tour will
106   n   Adventures

take you from Hanalei Bay, where you’ll see Hanalei Pier, and
around the Na Pali Coast to view waterfalls. They guarantee
that you’ll see the entire Na Pali Coast. You’ll stop at Nualolo
Kai A`awapuhi to snorkel. The tour includes snorkeling gear,
a deli lunch and snacks. The cost is $162 per person.
Anini Fishing Charters, % 808-828-1285, www. Captain Bob Kutkowski offers a Na Pali
Tour on his new 34-ft power catamaran. Anini Fishing
Charters launches right from Anini Beach, and they’ll take
you on a half-day charter around Na Pali with all snorkeling
gear and gourmet lunch included.
Na Pali Catamaran, Hanalei, % 866-255-6853, 808-826-
6853,, takes you on their 34-ft
custom Cougar catamaran from Hanalei along the Na Pali
Coast, with snorkeling and lunch included. They operate reg-
ularly throughout the summer, but only weather-permitting
during the winter months.

      One question that many people have when booking
      their boat tour is whether to leave from Waimea/
      Port Allen or from the north shore. It really depends
      on what you’re looking for.
      If you’re staying on the North Shore, it’s a much
      shorter drive to the tours that originate from
      Hanalei, as opposed to driving all the way to Port Al-
      len. Tours starting from the North Shore reach the
      Na Pali coast more quickly, so you spend more time
      actually seeing Na Pali. If you leave from Port Allen,
      you’ll be in the water 20-25 minutes before you get
      there. On the downside, the North Shore boat com-
      panies only offer catamaran tours. That’s more re-
      laxing, but, if you’re looking for more adventure,
      you’ll be better off taking one of the tours on a rigid-
      hull inflatable from Port Allen.

If you want to pick up some gear and hit the beach, here are
the best places to go snorkeling in the area.
                                          On the Water   n   107

                                             Tunnels is one of
                                             the top snorkeling
                                             plac es on t h e
                                             island. It’s best
                                             during the sum-
                                             mer wh en t h e
                                             waters are calm.
                                             There is a reef rel-
                                             atively close to
                                             shore that makes
                                             for good snorkel-
           Tunnels (         ing, ev en f or
                                             beginners. Expe-
rienced snorkelers can venture out beyond this reef and see
turtles, trumpetfish, butterflyfish and a whole lot more. In
spite of the popularity of the beach, there is plenty of room to
explore the reefs and have fun.

                                                                    The North Shore

                   Ke`e Beach (Hawaiian Images)
Ke`e Beach offers opportunity to see bright reef fish. It is
tough to snorkel during low tide because there’s not much
room between you and the reef. You should also watch out for
the left channel, which can form a strong current and sweep
you out toward Na Pali. Your best bet is to stay within the
small bay area.
The two-mile-long fringing reef at Anini Beach Park pro-
vides excellent snorkeling. It is a good site for beginners and
108   n   Adventures

gives you ample opportunity to spot eels, boxfishes and humu-
humunukunukuapuaa (say it three times fast!). Be aware of
the channel area, for the current can be pretty strong.
Queen’s Bath is excellent for snorkeling, making the hike
down worthwhile. On a good day, you can see hundreds of fish.
Sometimes, the water can be too calm, which leaves the lava
pools somewhat murky.

                                    Hanalei Surf Company in
                                    Hanalei Center, % 808-826-
                                    9000, and Hanalei Back-
                                    door Surf Company in the
                                    Ching Young Village, % 808-
                                    826-1900, both offer snorkel
                                    gear for $5 a day or $17 for
                                    the week. The staff at both
                                    stores is knowledgeable and
                                    will steer you to the right
                                    places for snorkeling.
                                    P ed al an d P a d d le i n
Ching Young Village, % 808-826-9069 also offers snorkel gear
for $5 a day or $20 a week.
A ctivity Wholesalers/
Snorkel Depot, Kuhio High-
way next to Postcards Cafe,
% 808-826-9983, offers lower
rates than everyone in the
area for snorkel gear, some-
times as low as $2.99 a day.
The quality isn’t bad. If
you’re on a super-tight bud-            Threadfin butterflyfish
get, it’s worth it.
You should also stop at any of the rental shops listed above or
at Foodland or Big Save and pick up an underwater camera
for about $12-$17. In order to get the best shots, you’ll need to
get pretty close. If the water’s clear, you can certainly pick up
the different vibrant colors of reef fish.
                                        On the Water     n   109

Surfing on the north shore is at
its best in the summer. Only the
pros would disagree with that
statement. During the winter,
the waves are large and danger-
ous, perfect conditions if you’re
an expert, but odds are, you’re
not. If you visit during the win-
ter, you’re better off cruising along the rolling waves on the
South Shore.

                                            As a beginner, it’s a
                                            good idea to get a
                                            lesson to learn the
                                            basics so you can
                                            get up on the board
                                            right away. It’s
                                            also good to get in

                                                                    The North Shore
                                            t he wa t er wi t h
                                            peopl e wh o a r e
                                            very familiar with
                                            the area and can
                                            tell you where the
    Hanalei Beach Park (Hawaiian Images)    good breaks are.
Hawaiian Surfing Adventures, % 808-482-0749, www., has lessons from Hanalei
Beach Park. The instructors will provide you with the board
that’s right for you and appropriate for the conditions. They’ll
teach you the basics before you get in the water. The lessons
are 1½ hours at $55 for a group lesson; $75 for a private les-
son. They also rent boards for $5 an hour or $15 per day.
Learn to Surf, % 808-826-7612. At $40 per person for a 1½-
hour beginner lesson, Learn to Surf is hard to beat. They give
lessons to beginner, intermediate and advanced surfers at
Hanalei Bay. They also rent boards for $25 a day.
Windsurf Kaua`i, % 808-828-6838, doesn’t just give wind-
surfing lessons. They also offer two-hour beginner lessons.
They also have rentals available.
Kayak Kaua`i, % 808-826-9844,, also
has surf lessons for beginners. Lessons are held at Hanalei
Bay, 10 am or 2 pm daily for $50. Call to reserve your spot.
110   n   Adventures

If you’re a surfer who’s spent some time in the water, you’ll
want to rent a board and jump right in the water. Popular
surfing spots are found at Hanalei Bay, Tunnels Beach,
Kalihiwai and Cannons.
Aside from the places mentioned above, you can rent surf-
boards from Hanalei Surf Company in Hanalei Center,
% 808-826-9000, and Hanalei Backdoor Surf Company in
the Ching Young Village, % 808-826-1900. Both offer boards for
$5 a day or $17 for the week. The staff at both stores is knowl-
edgeable and will tell you what breaks are good for surfing.

If you’re not a big fan of surfing, you might want to try your
luck at boogie boarding. Boogie boarding spots can be found
throughout the area. Although the best boogie boarding spots
can be found on the east and south shores, there’s still decent
boogie boarding at Hanalei Bay Beach Park and Kalihiwai
Pedal and Paddle in Ching Young Village, % 808-826-9069,
rents boogie boards with fins for $7 a day or $25 for a week.
Hanalei Surf Company in Hanalei Center, % 808-826-9000,
also rents boards for $7 a day or $22 per week.

         The north shore has great scuba diving for experi-
         enced and beginning divers alike. With places like
         Cannons, Tunnels, Ke`e Beach and Anini Beach, the
possibilities are endless. The reef along the north shore
beaches offers vibrant marine life. There are lava tubes and
caverns that you can explore.
North Shore Divers, % 808-828-
1223, has tours that are geared
more for the experienced diver.
One-tank shore dives start at $78
if you’re already certified. Cer-
tified divers can also go on their
two-tank boat dive for $135. If
you’re a beginner, they do offer
instruction starting at $98 for a
one-tank shore dive.
Dive Kaua`i, % 808-822-0452,            Bluestripe snapper, in Kapa`a,
offers shore dives along the north shore for certified divers,
starting at $103 for a one-tank dive that includes all scuba
                                       On the Water    n   111

Fathom Five Diving, % 800-742-6991, 808-742-6991, also
operates Ocean Quest Watersports, which is based in
Hanalei. They have dives for the experienced and for begin-
ners at Tunnels Beach Monday-Friday starting at $65 for one

         This area has a lot of options for kayaking. You can
         kayak along the Hanalei River or take an adventur-
         ous trek in the ocean. The Hanalei River has a pris-
tine beauty and is a serene adventure, whether upstream into
the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge or downstream into
Hanalei Bay. It’s also a great way to experience the refuge up-
Ocean kayaking is focussed mainly on the excursion to the Na
Pali coastline. There is nothing like seeing the incredible
beauty of the cliffs from a kayak. That’s one reason why
National Geographic Magazine named this adventure one of
the best in America. For more about kayaking Na Pali, take a
look at the Na Pali section later in this chapter.
Kayak Kaua`i,

                                                                  The North Shore
% 800-437-3507,
com, offers a whole
host of options for
kayaking. You can
rent a kayak and
they will launch
y o u fro m the ir
d o ck alo ng the
H anale i Riv e r.
From there, you                Ke`e Beach (Hawaiian Images)
can paddle two
miles upstream into the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge or
one mile downstream to Hanalei Bay. They also have car top
racks available if you want to check out the Huleia, Kilauea
and Kalihiwai rivers. The staff is friendly and they will help
you plan your route if you have any questions. Single kayak
rentals start at $28 and doubles start at $52.
Kayak Kaua`i also provides guided tours. They have a won-
derful three-hour tour that takes you down the serene
Hanalei River out into Hanalei Bay, where you can experience
the fun and adventure of ocean kayaking. You’ll land at Pu`u
112   n   Adventures

Poa Beach behind the Princeville Hotel for snorkeling and
snacks. It’s great for folks who are absolute beginners or don’t
have too much confidence in the water. The cost is $60.
Kayak Hanalei, % 808-826-1881,,
has tours that take off from an old boatyard at the mouth of
the Hanalei River and generally include a lot of information
about the history of the river. They have a three-hour tour of
the Hanalei River and Hanalei Bay, with snorkeling. The
tours offer a lot of information and history of the area.
Pedal and Paddle, % 808-826-9069, www.pedalnpaddle.
com, rents single kayaks starting at $20 a day or you can rent
a double starting at $35 a day.

                            Anini Beach is by far the best
                            place to learn how to windsurf,
                            while more advanced wind-
                            surfers will enjoy the ride at
                            Windsurf Kaua`i, % 808-828-
                            6838, has a three hour group les-
                            son where you learn the basics of
                            windsurfing for an hour, then
                            spend the remaining two in the
 Windsurfers off Ke`e Beach water. The cost for the beginner
                            lesson is $85. They sail out of
Anini Beach and they also rent equipment.
Windsurfing, lessons and rentals are also available from
Anini Beach Windsurfing at % 808-826-9463.

Hanalei Backdoor Surf Company in the Ching Young Vil-
lage, % 808-826-1900, has kiteboarding equipment. Popular
places for kite surfing are Anini Beach and Tunnels.

         Anini Fishing Charters & Tours, % 808-828-1285,, offers daily charters from
         Anini Beach. Captain Bob Kutowski takes you on his
34-ft power catamaran. There’s a maximum of only six pas-
North Shore Charters, % 808-828-1379, offers shared or
private Na Pali coast tours and fishing charters leaving from
Anini Beach. Fishing charters run a half-day and include
light to medium tackle and Penn International Gold Reels.
                                               In the Air    n   113

You’ll catch ono, ahi and mahimahi aboard Captain Gary
West’s 30-foot Na Pali Wilson.

         Heli USA Airways, Princeville Airport, Princeville,, % 808-826-6591, is good if
         you’re staying on the North Shore and you really
don’t want to drive down to Lihu`e. All of their tours start you
off with a video presentation. Then you’ll climb aboard their A
Star Helicopter and fly around the island.
They offer a 30-minute tour for $109 per person. You will see
Hanalei, Waimea Canyon, Na Pali and Alakai Swamp – a gen-
eral overview of the island, but you’ll miss out on much, much
more. The deluxe tour, at $169, also includes more of
Hanapepe Valley and more of Waimea Canyon. They also do
tours out of Lihu`e Airport.

                                                                       The North Shore

       Nawiliwili Bay from a helicopter tour (Hawaiian Images)

       Hanalei Day Spa at Hanalei Colony Resort, % 808-
       826-6621,, has four treat-
       ment rooms, including two couples’ massage rooms.
They also offer private and group yoga classes, yoga retreats
and beachside massage.

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