Virgin River Gorge by abstraks


									                                                                       Sun Cave

                                      xx                 5

                                                                                                                                                               a selection

                                                                                                                                                              sport climbing

                                                                                                                                                              Virgin River


                                             F R                                                                                  F R
1. Under a Sweltering Sky                              5.11d                    5. Heroin                                                 5.12d
  2 bolts and no anchors right and outside the cave.                                 Start as Scared Straight but go right at the 8th bolt. No anchor.

                                                                                                                                  F R

                                             F R
2. Forever Man                                         5.12b/c                  6. Scared Straight                                        5.13b
  Start on cheater stones in the left-facing face. 16 bolts of STEEP                 Start on a small crack. Climb the arete and straight up the steep face
  climbing.                                                                          to the anchors.
                                               F R                                                                              F R
3. Small Dose                                          5.12a/b                  7. Relapse                                                 5.13b/c
  Climb the 3 first bolts of Forever Man, then climb in the dihedral while           Start left of a small boulder. 15 feet right of the back of the cave.
  clipping the 5th and 6th bolts of Needle Me. Traverse left to clip the 7th         Finish as Scared Straight.
  bolt and finish as Needle Me.
                                             F R                                                                                                                 Mentor Cave
4. Needle Me                                           5.13b/c
  Start in the corner with a good sidepull pocket. Climb up and left to a
  crack and anchors left of a small alcove.                                                                                                                     Blasphemy Wall
                                                                                                                                                                   Sun Cave
                                                                                                                                                                   Sun Wall
                                                                                                                                                                 Warm-up Wall
                                                                                                                                                                 Grassy Ledge
Virgin River Gorge, Arizona                                                                                                                                                           Sun Wall
                                                                                                                    To get to the Sun Wall, you walk down from the parking to the tyrolean cable.
Some will say that VRG has the best limestone in the US. Others will tell
                                                                                                                    Here are a few tips for the traverse.
you that the climbing is good, but that the scenery is so bad that they don't
want to climb there. It is true that the highway is close to the crag but you'll                                    - Get a pulley. It will be much easier and if you don't, you'll loose the binner you used.
get over it. The routes of 5.11 and easier are not really good, the 5.12s are                                       - Use gloves. Pulling yourself along this cable is not as fun as in the movies and it hurts your
good, the 5.13s are amazing and the 5.14s look rad! The hard climbs here                                            hands.
are long and sustained and it's recommended to have a 60m rope or even a                                            - Use a back up. Just in case. If Stallone can drop a pretty girl, your friend could too.
70m. Some routes are incredibly technical, others are steep and pumpy.                   Phoenix                    - Pull your bag behind you. Your back will suffer way less and the binner shouldn't get too bad.
Travelling from Las Vegas to Utah, you'll drive next to it so check it out,
some people stay for weeks.

How to get there: VRG is on I-15 between St-George (Utah) and                                                                                                                                             xx                    xx
Mesquite (Nevada). From Las Vegas drive east on I-15. 13 miles after the                                                                             xx
Arizona border you'll see the Mentor Cave on your right, but as you can park there, keep driving to exit 18 to                                              xx      xx      xx
make a U-turn.                                                                                                                                                                                                       13
From St-George, drive west on I-15. After the Arizona border you'll start driving in the gorge. After mile marker
14, there will be a few curves and a long bridge. Park on your right just after the bridge. If you see the mile                                                                                            11              xx
marker 13, you've just past the parking and you might still have some time to back up.
                                                                                                                                                                     9           10
From the parking walk under the bridge to Mentor Cave and Blasphemy Wall or take the tyrolean traverse to                              6
                                                                                                                                                     7                                                                    12
Sun Cave and Sun Wall. See map.
When: Visit VRG from fall to early spring. Mentor and Blasphemy Wall are in the shade and can be chilly in
the winter but you can climb on nice days. Check out the Sun Cave if you don't like cold climbing.                                                                                                              xx
                                                                                                                                        xx                                                                           xx
                                                                                                                                                xx                 xx        xx
Eat: St-George and Mesquite have everything you need. St-George is bigger and looks much like a normal
town. Mesquite is a mini Vegas. Casinos and all-you-can-eat buffets. Gas seems to be cheaper in St-George.

Sleep: You can camp at exit 18 in Arizona. So after you leave VRG, drive toward Nevada and take the first exit
(exit 9) and drive back toward Utah. Many people have been busted for doing an earlier U-turn. It's not worth it.

From exit 18, drive north. The road soon turns into a dirt road. Free camping where you want along this road,

but it's more quiet if you drive for another half a mile. Leave no trace, pack out what you pack in. There are

rumors saying it's a dangerous place, so just be careful. The camping on the south side has been closed for

obscur reasons. If you want more luxury, you can have an hotel room in Mesquite for $20.
                                                                                                                                           1 2                       3

                                                                                                                                                                   F R                                                         F R
                                                                                                                    1. Chronic                                             5.11d            8. Truck Driver (2nd pitch)              5.13c
                                                                                                                      Start just right of the cave. Climb through a small roof and all
                                                                                                                      the way to the ledge. A bit dirty but fun.
                                                                                                                                                                  F R                                                          F R
                                                                                                                    2. Sun Driver                                          5.10d            9. Project                               5.?
                                                                                                                      Start 6 feet left of the big flake. Climb the face and the right of
                                                                                                                      the small roof.
                                                                                                                                                                    F R                                                        F R
                                                                                                                    3. Truck Driver (1st pitch)                            5.10b            10. Project                              5.?
                                                                                                                      Face the slab.

                                                                                                                                                                   F R                                                         F R
                                                                                                                    4. Sun Dog                                             5.11a            11. Project                              5.?
                                                                                                                      Climb with good holds on grey rock to a nice finish in a small
                                                                                                                                                               F R                                                             F R
                                                                                                                    5. Boyles Route                                        5.12d/13a        12. Sunburst                             5.12c
                                                                                                                      Start on the slab way right. Climb 19 bolts to the top of the wall.
                                                                                                                      Middle anchors for lowering.                                                                             F R
                                                                                                                                                                 F R
                                                                                                                    6. Unknown                                             5.13+            13. Project                              5.?

                                                                                                                                                                    F R

2                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            7
                                                                                                                    7. Unknown                                               5.13+
                                                                 Blasphemy Wall                                                                                                             Overview
               18                                 13,10
                                                   xx                             9,8
               xx                                                  xx 11                  7,6
                                      xx                                          xx     xx                                                 xx
                                         15                                                                                                      1                                   To Salt Lake City
                                                                                                                                                                                      and St-George
                           16                                                                                                                                                                                            (page 6)
                           xx                                                                                                    3,2
                                                            10                                                                   xx
                                      xx 14                           11                                                                                                                                                  Warm-up

                                                                                                                                                                                                         Virgin River
                                              12                                                                                                                                                                           Grassy
                                                        11                                                                                                                                                                (page 5)
                                                                              9                                                                                                                                            Mentor
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           (page 4)

                                                                                                                          3                                 Sun        Sun
                                                                                                                                                            Cave       Wall
                                                            10,9      8,7
                    18,17       16-14          13-11
                                                                                                                                                           (page 8)   (page 7)               B
                                               F R                                       6
1. Erotic Jesus                                        5.13a
                                                                                                  5                                                                                          R
  Start as Bloody Mary but go right after the third bolt. 13 bolts.                                                               F R
  60M ROPE!                                                                       10. F-Dude                                              5.13d                                              I
                                             F R                                    Start just right of the alcove, climb the face with small black
2. Bloody Mary                                         5.11d                        streaks. Traverse left after the 7th bolt to finish in The Fall of                                       D
  Start from a big boulder. Climb up to a right-facing flake and trend              Man. 14 bolts. 70M ROPE ?
                                                                                                                                   F R                                  in   Rive            G
                                             F R                                  11. Dark Boy                                            5.13b
3. Swear to God                                        5.13a                        Climb The Fall of Man but go right before the roof. 12 bolts.                                            E
  Start right of the left boulder. Climb the face 6 feet right of the black         60M ROPE!
  streak.                                                                                                                    F R
                                               F R                                12. The Fall of Mouse                                   5.11c
4. Don't Call Me Coach                                 5.13c                        Climb The Fall of Man to the first anchors above the small roof.
  Start behind the first boulder. Climb up a black streak. 60M ROPE!
                                                                                                                                  F R
                                               F R                                13. The Fall of Man                                     5.13b
5. Project?!?                                          5.                           Start between 2 alcoves. Climb up, right of the small roof and keep
  The bolts have been removed and the holds filled up. What an                      climbing up a black streak. 15 bolts. 70M ROPE?
  uggly mess...                                                                                                               F R
                                          F R                                     14. High Flames Drifter                                 5.12c
6. Necessary Evil                                      5.14c                        Climb right of the cave, through the small roof and the middle black
  Direct start to The Route of all Evil. Climb thin holds in the black              streak on the face.
  streak. 12 bolts. 60M ROPE!                                                                                                  F R
                                              F R                                 15. H.F.D. extension                                    5.12d
7. The Route of all Evil                                5.14a                       Extension of High Flames Drifter. 11 bolts. 60M ROPE!
  Climb the right-leaning slits and traverse right after the third bolt.
  12 bolts. 60M ROPE!                                                                                                             F R
                                              F R                                 16. Sins of Flesh                                       5.12c                                        To Las Vegas
8. Don't Call Me Dude                                   5.13c                       Start on High Flames Drifter but go left after the roof.
  Direct start to Dude. Start as The Route of All Evil and go straight
                                                                                                                                  F R
                                                                                                                                                                                       and Mesquite
  up after the third bolt.11 bolts. 60M ROPE!
                                             F R                                  17. Unknown                                             5.12b/c
                                                                                    Climb I Saw Jesus... to the first anchors.
9. Dude                                                 5.13c
  Start as F-Dude and go right after the 4th bolt. 11 bolts.                                                                      F R
  60M ROPE!
                                                                                  18. I Saw Jesus at the Chains                           5.13a

6                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   3
                                                                                    Climb to the cave, up and left in the cave and on the left black
                                                                                    streak on the face. 13 bolts. 60M ROPE!
                      23,22                      xx       19        18,13        Mentor                                                                                                                                         Grassy Ledge
                         xx                               xx        xx
                                                                                           xx        xx
                                                          18                                                                   4                   2,1
                                                                                                                              xx                    xx

                                                 xx                                                                                    3
                                              17           16-14                                                                     xx
                                                                                                                                                                                                           6                7            8         9

                                                                                                                                                                 to Blasphemy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Warm-up Wall
    25        24,23                                                                     Cave                                           3,2
                               22      21 20-17
                                                16 15                                                                          6-4
                                                                 14,13 12 11 10
                                                                                                       9,8      7                                                                                                      xx
                                                F R                                                                                  F R
1. Brutus                                               5.11b                                                                                                                                                                                xx         xx
                                                                                  13. Never Surrender                                        5.13b/c
  Start left of a small alcove. The last route to the right.                          Climb Surrender Dorothy but just before the anchors, trend right
                                                F R                                   then straight up. 21 bolts. 60M ROPE!
2. Corrosion                                            5.12c                                                                  F R
  Start on a ledge, climb just right of the black streak and trend                14. Surrender Dorothy                                      5.12d
  right after the third bolt.                  F R                                    Climb with left-facing flakes to a big hole above the second bolt.
                                                                                      Climb up then left to Don't Believe the Hype's anchors.
3. Project                                              5.?                                                                                                                         to Blasphemy
  Start as Corrosion but go left before the small roof.                                                                           F R
                                              F R                                 15. Don't Believe the Hype                                 5.12a
                                                                                      Start in a small alcove and left-facing corner. Climb up and right over
4. Mars                                                 5.13b
  Start as Bowser but go right after the third bolt to climb left of
                                                                                      a bulge and then left to the anchors.
                                                                                                                                  F R                                                                                   5                                2                  1
  the black streak, then on the black face.                                       16. Unknown                                                5.11b
                                               F R                                    Unpopular climb that finishes on Don't Believe the Hype's anchors.                                                                          4
5. Bowser                                               5.12d                                                                  F R                                                                                                           3
  Start in an "alcove", climb up and left following holes and cracks              17. Dirt Cowboy                                            5.12c
  and after the roof traverse left to finish as Mentor.                               With an undercling pocket, clip the first bolt from the ledge. Climb
                                                F R                                   to the first anchors above a tricky slab.
6. Bowser Wowser                                        5.13b                                                                     F R                                                                                                                                  to Mentor
  Start as Bowser and after the roof, traverse left as Wowser.                    18. False Witness                                          5.13a
                                              F R                                     Climb Dirt Cowboy, then one more and then right to Never
                                                                                      Surrender's anchors. 60M ROPE!
7. Subterfuge                                            5.13a                                                               F R
                                                                                                                                                                                    Warm-up Wall                                                  Grassy Ledge
  Start right of Mentor and after the roof, traverse left to finish on            19. Captain Fantastic                                      5.13c
  Mentor.                                                                             Climb Dirt Cowboy, then two more bolts and then right. 17 bolts.                                                         F R                                               F R
                                               F R
                                                                                      60M ROPE!
8. Wowser                                                5.12d                                                                F R                               1. Unknown                                           5.9               6. Dead on the Phone            5.11d
  Same start as Mentor but go left after the roof to finish in Sensory            20. Planet Earth                                           5.14a                Start on a ledge with a crack.
  Overload.                                                                           Climb Dirt Cowboy, then go straight up. 60M ROPE!
                                              F R                                                                              F R                                                                             F R                                               F R
9. Mentor                                                5.12b                    21. Horse Latitudes                                        5.14a              2. Unknown                                           5.11c             7. Catalyst                     5.11c
  This obvious and nice line follows the jugs on the right side of the                Start with good left-facing holds and a big hole under the first bolt.      Climb the face just right of the cave.
  cave.                                                                               60M ROPE!
                                             F R                                                                                 F R                                                                           F R                                               F R
10. Sensory Overload                                     5.13b                    22. Project                                                5.?                3. Unknown                                           5.10d             8. Bugger Bill                  5.12b
  Climb in the left of the cave, through 2 roofs and up the face.                     Start on the ledge, where there is 2 big pockets.                           Go up to a big hole and a steep face.
                                              F R                                                                                 F R
11. Quick Fix                                           5.11d                     23. Joe Six Pack                                           5.13a                                                             F R                                               F R
  Climb the left-facing flake up to pockets. Many warm-ups on this                    Start as Redneck but go right after the third bolt.                       4. Lyme Disease                                      5.10c             9. Shyster Myster               5.11d
  climb, lowering before the final crux.                                                                                          F R                             Start with two big holes and climb the face.
                                             F R
                                                                                  24. Redneck                                                5.12b
12. Hell Comes to Frogtown                              5.13d                         Start with a big left-facing flake. Go left after the third bolt.
                                                                                                                                                                                                               F R
  Climb the steep face to anchors under the roof. Short and bouldery.
                                                                                                                                    F R
                                                                                                                                                                5. Unknown                                           5.10
                                                                                                                                                                  Climb the face between a big hole and a huge hole.
                                                                                  25. Delivrance                                             5.13a

4                                                                                     Start with a pocket at the left end of the slab/ledge. Climb right of
                                                                                      the rounded arete.

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