Journey Beyond Travel Magazine Welcome to the Journey Beyond by abstraks


									                                 Journey Beyond Travel Magazine
                      Quarter I: January - March 2006 (V2N1) ISN#31198774378

                                           Welcome to the Journey Beyond Travel Magazine! We’re
                                                              … going beyond the destination!
                                  Cover: designed by Sherice of iElectrify

                                  Cover Photo: taken by Thomas, Managing Editor.

                                  Magazine brought to you by the team of Journey Beyond Travel.

                                  © 2005 – 2006 Journey Beyond Travel: all material is the copyrighted work of Journey Beyond
                                  Travel and / or its respective authors. This work may not be displayed in any form, copied, edited, or
                                  used without the written consent of Journey Beyond Travel and its author(s).

                 This Publication is brought to you thanks to Traveler’s Digest and Roberts Imaging .

In this issue:

Check out our photography sponsor and the first annual
First Book in Progress Award with a GREAT CASH prize!

                                                    Table of Contents

Into the Heart: The Jungle is Neutral – The Battlefields of South East Asia by Philip Sen … page 2
Beyond the Surface: The Dance by Ryan Forsythe … page 11
Beyond Culture: Tanduay and Cokes by Brenda Lee Intengan … page 13
True Traveler: Big (Sur)Prise! by Janice Arenofsky … page 20


Photographer’s Ground: Travel Photography: Aim High by Renee Schluter-Phillips … page 5
Writer’s Ground: What a Day! by Shaun C. Kilgore … page 7
Out and About: Hepatitis on a Stick? : Street Food in China by Larry Jer … page 10
Beyond the Destination: Hitchking the World by David King … page 16
Travel Poetry: Destination / Cobra Show … / Upon the Charming by Jessica Titlebaum


Writer’s Life: Living the Writer’s Life – in Paris; A Review by Erika Dreifus … page 9
Place & Time: Ghost Month in Hong Kong by Nicole Trilivas … page 18
Traveler’s Secret: Shopping Secret: Tchibo by Kate Baggot … page 17
World Foods: Schnitzel International by Kate Baggot … page 20
Traveler’s Wisdom: Get Lost! by Kathleen M. Wooton, M.D. … page 19

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                                       Into the Heart

                          The Jungle is Neutral – Battlefields of South East Asia
                                               By Philip Sen

                                     Indochina, as       the eastern       grenades,     small   arms   and
They    call it the Hellfire Pass,   countries of Laos, Vietnam and        ammunition discovered in the
and indeed in the tropical           Cambodia were then known, was         neighbouring fields. Hard to
sunshine and humidity it feels       just one catalyst of the conflicts    imagine now, perhaps more
like the devil’s kitchen itself.     that unfolded there from the          bombs were dropped on Laos
But remember what happened           1950s to 1980s.                       than were expended over
here and, despite the sweat and                                            Germany during WWII; most
the flies and the dusty walk to      Countless lines of          marble    over     sections    of    North
get here you begin to think          headstones poke up from               Vietnam’s celebrated supply
yourself lucky. Once, long ago,      Kanchanaburi’s      three major       route, the Ho Chi Minh trail;
the Hellfire Pass drank the life     cemeteries,     tended    to   an     some allegedly dumped by US
and the blood of men.                immaculate standard by armies         pilots returning from Hanoi with
                                     of Thai gardeners. The town is        bombs to spare. Even 40 years
Today it lies quiet; still and       also the site of the famous           later,     blue-capped     United
serene. The whips and tools were     Bridge on the River Kwai, fixed       Nations mine disposal experts
long ago laid down and the jungle    for posterity in our imaginations     can still be seen combing the
on either side buzzes instead with   by David Lean’s 1957 cinema           countryside for more unexploded
insects, a thousand miniature        epic of the same name. The            ordnance.
chainsaws scraping out their         structure that spans the flow
cacophonous song. The rust-          now, however, is not the original     Hanoi itself, capital of the now
brown rockface is pitted and         bombed to destruction during the      re-unified Vietnam, is an almost
gouged by the picks and hand         war; and the museum set up on         European city but for the heat
drills used to hew the passage 60    the bank is a curious and decrepit    and the oppressive whirr of
years before; the occasional drill   mixture of authentic artefacts        thousands of mopeds (private car
bit has snapped off and embedded     and badly-wrought papier-mache        ownership is still rare in this
in the stone. Aside from this,       figures.                              reforming Communist state).
however, little now remains.                                               The old centre is a cosmopolitan
Perhaps seven or eight feet of       Despite the horrors of the past,      locale of lakes and leafy
railway track, worn away by          Kanchanaburi is in fact a fine        boulevards, the French influence
weather and age, and a plaque        place to relax and settle into the    readily apparent. Embalmed and
festooned with withered flowers      pace of life in rural Thailand.       somewhat waxy-looking, the
and drooping Commonwealth            Hotels and bungalows stand on         corpse of Ho Chi Minh is
flags. But just this small section   stilts above the stream of the        preserved in a typically austere
of the Burma railway cost the        river itself, and the balconies and   Stalinist-style       mausoleum.
lives of hundreds of Allied          restaurants are ideal for lazy        Thousands of Vietnamese troop
prisoners of war, starved, beaten    afternoons and laconic nights         past every day for a quick gawp
and tormented by their Japanese      watching the water ebb by.            at the exulted leader. Yet for
captors. One cannot help but to      Returning to Bangkok by train,        downed US pilots, Hanoi held
stop for a moment and simply         one can still ride some of the        few attractions.
contemplate.                         original wartime railway.             Hoa Lo Prison, otherwise known
                                                                           as ‘the Hanoi Hilton’ was
Hellfire Pass, near modern-day       On to Laos, scene of clandestine      established by the French in the
Kanchanaburi in Thailand, is a       conflict during the Vietnam War.      late 19th century. Now a
fitting start to a loop of           Much of the evidence lingers on.      museum, many of the exhibits
historical sites that takes you      Instead of horsebrasses and           (including the regulation Gallic
around     South    East   Asia,     pewter tankards, the shacks that      guillotine) are devoted to the
following the progress of 20th-      pass for public houses in Laos        undoubted oppression of the
century war’s bloody toll. The       often       harbour      macabre      colonial years. A section is
Japanese occupation of French        collections of clusterbombs,          dedicated to the building’s life as                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   2
a POW camp and is stark proof          Khe Sanh firebase is now a            fallen government of the South.
of that old maxim, ‘history is         coffee plantation.                    Stylish and opulent conference
written by the victor’. American                                             rooms and offices and a swinging
internees     here      apparently     Elsewhere in the DMZ can be           1960s upstairs ballroom area
enjoyed cordon bleu cuisine,           found other sites such as former      contrast with the underground
sports facilities, a well-stacked      sections of the Ho Chi Minh           command centre. This was the
library      and        workshop.      trail,    now     sanitised  and      Asian equivalent of London’s
Propaganda posters extol the           asphalted-over to become part         cabinet war rooms, from where
virtues     of     this     model      of the road network. One can          the war was run and lost in
environment. You suspect that          also visit the tunnel complex at      relative safety.
the museum is being economical         Vinh Moc with its beachside
with the truth.                        escape routes and underground         From Saigon, the route turns
                                       hospital the size of an outdoor       west to Phnom Penh, capital of
From Hanoi it is a short flight to     privy.                                Cambodia. As the Vietnam War
another name resonating with                                                 wound up, another violent
history, Dien Bien Phu. Despite        These are overshadowed by the         episode began in this small and
its     significance    to     the     better-known tunnels of Cu Chi,       backward country. A bumpy half
Vietnamese – the siege in 1954         hundreds of       miles further       hour ride from the town centre
signalled the end of the French        southwest. With undisguised glee,     takes you to Choeung Ek, better
empire – it is surprisingly            the guides show you just how well     known as the Killing Fields. It is
tourism free. Stone plaques mark       hidden these catacombs were,          the final resting place of 17,000
places of interest, such as the        kicking away dead leaves and          hapless victims of the Khmer
spot where a French artillery          undergrowth to reveal entrance        Rouge, bludgeoned to death to
officer shot himself in despair,       holes no larger than a shoebox.       save ammunition and cast into
and General de Castilles’ bunker       While Vietnamese tourists deftly      mass graves. These pits have
has been roughly recreated. But        pop themselves through the            now been excavated, and the
for the most part, the ambience        openings, none of the Europeans       crania of the anonymous dead
of Dien Bien Phu is in the             present have a hope. Crawling         that were found now goggle at
rusting relics that never quite        through the 4ft-high passages         you from behind a pane of glass,
made it off the field of battle:       themselves is even less fun for a     preserved for eternity as part of
tanks, guns and machinery of           tall,     perhaps      overweight     the monument erected to remind
war litter the paddies and even        westerner, and one pales further      Cambodia and its visitors of what
the gardens of private houses, as      when shown the display of Viet        happened here.
if subsumed into the fabric of the     Cong booby traps also on
countryside.                           display. The thought of carrying      Even more chilling is Tuol Svay
                                       a rifle through the heat,             Prey High School, also known as
Further south, situated along the      humidity and insects surrounded       Tuol Sleng or ‘Poison Hill’.
17th parallel is the area known        by such vicious devices as the        Bearing an uncanny resemblance
as the Demilitarized Zone              ‘souvenir’ trap (that gripped the     to the functional architecture of
(DMZ). This was the scene of           limb so firmly that troops had to     a London secondary modern, the
the heaviest fighting during the       be evacuated with it still            premises were converted into S-
1965-1973 ‘American war’ as            attached) doesn’t bear thinking       21, an administration and
the Vietnamese call it, and in the     about.                                interrogation centre for the
once wartorn city of Hue a                                                   regime’s enemies. Preserved just
tourbus industry has sprung up to      All roads in Vietnam lead to          as it was when Cambodia was
cater for those who wish to            Saigon, where the regime finally      ‘liberated’ by Vietnam in 1978,
revisit it. To the west is Khe         collapsed on 30 April 1975.           the decaying complex is filled
Sanh. Set at an altitude of 600m       While helicopters evacuated the       with bare cells containing
among a panorama of jagged             last remaining Americans from         nondescript        iron       beds,
hills, part of the airstrip remains,   the embassy roof, Vietcong            agricultural tools and dried blood,
desolate but for eddies of red dust    tanks smashed through the gates       and       understated      displays
kicked up by the wind. In 1967,        of the Presidential Palace at the     illustrating the incomprehensible
the US Marines were besieged for       heart of the city. With an            cruelty of torture practised in
weeks by overwhelming forces.          exterior not unlike a multi-          the camp. Most poignant of all
It was a diversion for the             storey car park, the inside of the    are the thousands of mugshots
Communists’ real plan, the Tet         palace has been preserved to          taken from the prison files and
Offensive. Some of the former          illustrate the lifestyle of the       now pinned up in rows on the                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006        3
walls;    the    eyes   of  the     where it ends, the bloody history     Philip Sen is a freelance writer and
condemned, sometimes defiant,       of this troubled region maintains     photographer specialising in the
sometimes pleading, sometimes       a presence there. Now the region      politics,  culture     and    natural
uncomprehending, stare through      is at peace, and is swamped with      landscapes of Asia. His work has
                                                                          featured in international magazines
space and time and remind you       tourists looking for culture,
                                                                          from Wallpaper* to Jane's Defence
that yes, you are a voyeur.         adventure,       and      that-all    Weekly and British publications from
                                    important photo-op. Perhaps it        The Sunday Times Travel Magazine
It is strange how history works     is best that the past is laid to      to The Engineer. He was highly
in these cycles. From the           rest. But it is also right to         commended in the UK Periodical
genocide of the Thailand to         remember.                             Training Council's New Journalist of
Burma Death Railway where the                                             the Year Awards 2001. See his
route begins,       through   the   And, one can only hope that           homepage at:
warzones of Laos and Vietnam,       eventually the lessons of history
to the Killing Fields of Cambodia   will be learnt.


                                          By Jessica Titlebaum

                                                         we borrow sunscreen from a man in a red shirt
                                                                      it says Canada on it
                                                           Are you American or Canadian? I hear a
                                                                         British man ask
                                                         as he puts the sunscreen back in his carry-on

                                                                 on the canoe back to the shore
            red rusty paddle boat canoe                      we see women paddle boats full of rice
   sitting on a wooden plank makes my bottom                         collected in the paddies
                        hurt                               they wear long sleeves and circle straw hats
     for 2 hours — going to the mountain and                          with points at the top
                    coming back
                                                                    we pass by a check point
              with a German couple                           and our 19-year-old guide who has been
   and the man with a longer ponytail than my                        paddling for two hours
                       own                                   gives the patrol office a piece of paper
    puts his maroon colored button down shirt                        the gate is lifted for us.
               around my shoulders
     to protect my skin from the beating sun
                                                         Jessica is amazed at the many coffee shops, around
                                                         the world, that she has sat in and sipped coffee at.
     we climb man made steps made of rocks
                                                         She spent some time in SE Asia and Europe,
       through a jungle of green trees and               backpacking and teaching English. She has found a
   mountainous ravines to a cold cave decorated          home in Bangkok, Thailand; Ho Chi Mihn City,
              with rows of Buddhas                       Vietnam and Florence, Italy. Jessica earned her
                                                         Bachelor’s of English at the University of Maryland
    walking back down with bottles of water and          and then moved on to receive her TESOL Certificate
                     red cheeks                          from TEFL International in Ban Phe, Thailand. She
    Mary slips on a rock and falls to the ground         frequently calls Vietnam on her cell phone and
              shaky, she gets back up                    believes that nothing is too fabulous to be true.                           Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006             4
                                Photographer’s Ground

  Brought to you in association with:

                                        Travel Photography Special: Aim High, Part I
                                                 By Renee Schluter-Phillips

                                        camera- don’t press them.              or some exclusive rights to your
                                        Asking politely usually warms a        photos. If you want to give up
                                        subject. I recently took what I        those kinds of rights, the end
Selling great photos along with         found to be an interesting photo       result should be a lot more
your work is a great income             of an elderly Oriental man             money.
booster. The ability to take            playing the Chinese violin on
publishable pictures makes you          the corner of Spadina and              But in most situations you are
that much more marketable in            Dundas streets in Toronto,             free to sell your photos again
an editor’s eye. There is also an       Ontario. The man was collecting        and again. To be clear, you can
axiom which states, “great              tips from kind passers by in the       state on your captions “Photos
pictures can sell just good prose,”     open case of his violin. It was a      sold on a one time rights basis.”
so honing our photography skills        curious      looking     homemade      It is best to use common sense
and learning the rules of the           instrument that lent an authentic      here as well, though. No editor
trade go hand in hand for the           atmosphere to this cornerstone         wants to thumb through the
serious travel writer. Knowing a        of Toronto’s vibrant Chinatown.        newspaper or a competitor’s
few tricks of the profession is         The image was perfect with the         magazine and come across the
essential.     Two        common        tell all street signs behind him. It   photo he just bought from you
questions                      new      could only be            Tortonto’s    and is planning on including in
writers/photographers          face     Chinatown. Locals bustled by           next month’s edition of his own
concern photo releases and              with their morning shopping in         publication. Use common sense
photo rights.                           tow. The early sun was behind us       if you want to earn an editor’s
                                        shining square on his age old          respect. And, of course, you do
The rules regarding photo               face.                                  want to earn an editor’s respect.
releases and whether or not you
need to obtain them are actually        I asked him if he minded me            In many cases, you can purchase
quite simple. You need a                taking his photograph. He              photos or often get them for
person’s written permission if          didn’t. It was a friendly exchange     free. Photographer’s Market is a
you think you have a possible           between the two of us. He spoke        good resource to access the
cover shot- a picture that will         with broken English. I know            availability of photos in the area
appear on the cover of a                nada Chinese. Before I had ever        you are covering. If your topic
magazine. You will also need            approached him, I had taken            concerns                businesses,
permission if the photo is going        some change out of my purse to         organizations, or any other
to be used for advertising              enable easy access to it after I       group that might benefit from
purposes.      This        includes     had captured the shot. I probably      the extra publicity contact them
photographs that will be included       would have tipped him whether          and don’t forget tourism bureaus.
in    company      or     in-house      he had agreed to the shot or not-      Often, there is no need to kill
publications. A trusted guide like      my own little way of supporting        yourself in an effort to get the
Writer’s        Market           or     the arts- but the important            right angle for that shot of the
Photographer’s Market           will    lesson here is to show common          Golden      Gate   Bridge.    The
indicate which magazines require        courtesy and make good use of          expected shot of this bridge, for
photo releases, as well as provide      your common sense. Don’t take          example, has already been
a sample release for you to copy        from someone without giving            photographed, multiple times,
and use.                                back and be friendly.                  and probably better by someone
                                                                               with better equipment and access
In addition, use common sense           Photos are usually sold on a one       to a helicopter.
and basic courtesy. If someone          time rights basis. You hope and
clearly shies away from the             dream of some editor buying all                                 Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   5
If you didn’t take the shot be            do that, but instead agreed to
sure to give photo credit, you            come along with me if I could             So make yourself aware of your
can indicate this on your caption         devise a plan to get a press pass         rights and obligations, educate
sheets. I remember when I first           for her too. We got her in the            yourself on both photography
started out freelancing for The           press stands- a coveted 20 feet           and writing; aim high, and
Marion           Times-Standard,          from Clinton himself. It worked           remember to photograph the
President Clinton was coming to           out great for me. I could focus           journey.
town, and I didn’t have the type          on capturing the essence of the
of camera to cover such an                crowd and diligently scribbling           Renee Schluter-Phillips is a freelance
event effectively. I probably             down       every      conceivably         writer with a background in
could have borrowed a camera              important quote. I was busy               environmental       science        and
from the office, but I was new. I         making eye contact, literally,            journalism. She currently lives in
                                                                                    Winston-Salem, North Carolina with
was a whole lot more timid then           with the President, while she
                                                                                    her new husband, Rod, a Ph.D.
and I just didn’t know. What I            took all the shots in exchange            Research Scientist, and her four
did was ask a friend who had              for nothing more than our                 wonderfully smart and creative
gotten this incredible camera for         friendship, the once in a lifetime        children: Robert 15, Catherine
Christmas if I could borrow her           experience of it all, and photo           Margaret 12, Jackson 9, and Helen
camera. She didn’t want me to             credit.                                   Louise    who     is     now      5 .

  Journey Beyond Travel thanks Roberts Imaging. Located in Indianapolis, Indiana, Roberts has been offering
  quality photo equipment to professionals and hobbyists alike in the U.S. and abroad. We use them for all our
  photographic needs, so why not check them out online! They have great service, affordable prices, and fast
  shipping! Are you getting ready to travel and need that extra lens? Contact Robert’s first!

                              Simply click Roberts Imaging to visit their online store today!                                    Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006            6
                                     Writer’s Ground

                                               What a Day!
                                           By Shaun C. Kilgore

When I first started writing--I      such joy. Page by page, chapter       The notion of creating my own
mean, really writing--there was a    by chapter, I was reaffirming         comic books, the very marriage
keen sense of exhilaration that      that I, indeed, might actually be     of my skills as an artist and still
filled my heart at the prospect      a writer. This is not to say that I   untapped talent as a writer, led
of stepping across the line. I'm     didn't struggle. There was always     me to seek schooling. It was the
sure you would agree that every      something that I just could not       wrong road, though I hardly
writer has that point in time        convey or some aspect of the          thought so at the time. I was
when they finally take the           craft still completely unknown        convinced that the synthesis of
plunge, setting them apart from      to me. The mechanics of my            words and images was what I was
the countless others who only        storytelling were rough and often     looking for, when in reality, I
talked about writing but never       tenuous, but I relished even my       was more concerned with the
did. For more years than I care      most awkward attempts. They           story than I was with conjuring it
to admit, I walked among those       were my validation.                   up in the narrow confines of
talking masses. I rationalized my                                          limited panels in a twenty-five
place in it just like they did,      Those fitful surges of creative       page spread. No, I had wider
providing my own comments            juices were so inspiring and          vistas in mind, but not enough
along the way. "Yeah, oh boy,        sparked a fire that has continued     confidence to proceed further.
I'm going to do it, I'm going to     to burn. Every time I sit here
write something spectacular.         and type I am stopped by my           My awakening was still a few
Yeah, I'm going to be a writer,      own thoughts. It is such a            years off. So, I sat in silence. No
you'll see." But, obviously, for a   beautiful thing to create, whether    mode of expression ever came
long time, nothing happened. I       by words being strung into            close to what I knew was building
talked--we all talked right?         sentences or by a brush and some      up inside of me. But, with time,
                                     paint; all proceeds from that         that growth of creative energy
Then a day came when I really        same deep recess of the soul, the     finally surged to the surface and
meant those words and they           very center of the artistic spirit.   exploded one summer afternoon
became something else. They                                                after I had gotten home from
began to flow with life. I came      As a child, this was cultivated in    work. The awakening had
home from my regular job and         more visual forms of expression.      arrived.
instead of staring at the            The writer that would later
computer screen longingly, I         immerge found a way into my           I could tell you that I made my
walked over, sat down, and began     creative     moments      through     way carefully down this road, but
tapping on the keys like a           something as seemingly trivial as     I would not be telling the truth. I
concert pianist during a solo        sequential art. (Yes, I mean          plunged headlong through the
performance – a breakthrough.        comic books.) Here these two          thickets of prose and pacing, not
That is what it was. I stopped       powerful forms of expression          really taking the time to plan
merely talking and actually acted    were combined into a brilliant        my venture. I was filled to
on that impulse I had spent so       and exciting format which I           bursting with the images of the
much time suppressing and            readily devoured at a monstrous       fantastic, visions of chivalrous
appeasing with hollow promises       rate. The conveyance of story         legends, and great magical
in the past.                         through pictures and words cast a     powers at work in fictional
                                     heady spell over my young mind        worlds of my own devising. I
Do you remember that moment?         and even when I had that writer's     could well imagine a field of
Wasn't it wonderful? Wasn't it       awakening some years later, it        super heroics within which I
intoxicating to see your thoughts    came in the form of comic             could play out the best parts of
and visions spread out before        book-like visions dancing in my       my comic book experiences, but
you? Let me tell you, it was for     head, beckoning me along a            cut through the limitations that
me.    Writing     those initial     crooked little path that story-       this form imposed on the
manuscript pages filled me with      telling often becomes.                storyline.                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   7
                                       The more I raked my ignorance         continues to swell with every
I paid for this reckless launch.       and assumptions against them          step of my journey down the
Time after time, I struggled           the clearer my insight into the       writer’s path. The artist in me
terribly with my own limitations       nuts and bolts of the craft           continues    to    supply    the
as a burgeoning young writer and       became. I grew. Now, after a          necessary fuel of both real and
every rewrite was testimony to         number of years, I find that,         imagined places and people, and
my shaky creative choices. But         thankfully, I am still being          I rejoice in this. I could have
this is not to say that the efforts    sharpened. I still struggle with      regrets for my wrong choices,
were in vain. No, on the               some of the same elementary           but I would rather choose to
contrary,     they     were      the   issues that marked my first           learn from these and push on
whetstones that sharpened the          efforts, but to a lesser degree.      through the tangled forest of
blade of my writer's sensibilities.    The pains I have gone through         writing. What a day it is!
                                       were well worth the effort
                                       expended.     My     satisfaction

        Special Announcement: WRITER’S CONTEST!
                                           Journey Beyond Travel
                                       - First Book in Progress Award -

  As listed in Writer’s Market, Journey Beyond Travel is proud to bring our readers and writers our first
  annual First Book in Progress Award.

  What: Worldwide contest for writers currently writing a nonfiction manuscript. It can be literary,
  creative, narrative, or a compilation of short stories regarding adventure / travel. We acquire the
  right to print the winning material in Journey Beyond Travel's e-zine and newsletter. Manuscripts
  will be judged by a panel with substantial writing, critiquing, editing, and publishing experience. Entries
  may be submitted through the website.

  How: First, break out that old manuscript about adventure/travel. Or, if you’ve been dying to tell
  your story – that perfect book idea – now is your time to start typing! Send us a one-paragragh
  query, a one-page synopsis and the first thirty, double-spaced pages of your manuscript. Each page
  should be numbered and in pristine editorial condition. All materials should be sent via e-mail as
  Microsoft Word documents. Materials sent hardcopy may not reach us.

  First Prize: US$ 1000.00 & Journey Beyond Travel Book of the Year Seal upon publication.
  Contest Begins: April 2006

  Deadline: December 31, 2006; Winner announced in March 2007.

  Entrance Fee: ONLY US$ 25.00; via Paypal

  Eligibility: Open to any writer who has never published a book before. Those who have had books
  self-published, published by a vanity press, or whose work has appeared in print or online journals
  may enter.

  See the Journey Beyond Travel website once contest begins for further details!                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006          8
                                     Writer’ s Life
                                  Living the Writer’s Life – in Paris:

                        A Writer’s Paris: A Guided Journey for the Creative Soul
                                             By Eric Maisel

                                      A Review By Erika Dreifus

                                                      you mine the city and the experience of being
If you’ve   ever dreamed of absconding to the         there for your writing.
City of Lights (and its cafés) to write your novel
or book of poems, Eric Maisel’s new book may          He tells you about his own favorite writing spots,
help you make that dream come true. “It is easy       for instance (the Place des Vosges is one of
to find a Parisian studio for a month,” Maisel        them). He anticipates and counters many of
says. Contrary to popular thought, it is not          your fears, blocks, and other obstacles—
impossible “to live cheaply and well. I am not        including my own unfortunate favorite: “I have
asking that you throw over your life in order to      no idea for a novel.”
experience Paris. This is not a book about expat
living. I am only asking that you use Paris not as    Along the way, conversationally, he imparts
a tourist destination, but as a place to write, and   quite a bit of French history and culture (I found
that you make Paris one of the stopping places        his section on “Disrespecting Albert Camus”
on your creative journey.”                            particularly intriguing). Part travel book, part
                                                      writer’s manual, A Writer’s Paris indeed provides
Maisel, a San Francisco-based creativity coach        a guided journey, and a very good read.
and coach trainer, and himself the author of
more than two dozen works of fiction and              Erika Dreifus is a freelance writer and Francophile based
nonfiction, is all about that creative journey. He    in Massachusetts. Her own Parisian sojourns include a
does include practical tips on finding a place to     semester during college and several months conducting
stay and sifting through the many web sites and       dissertation research as a graduate student. Be sure to
guidebooks that will both simplify and enrich         visit her website:
your life in Paris, but his main focus is helping

Book Described Above: Writer’s Digest Books, November 2005; $18.99; 1-58297-359-8                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006        9
                                      Out and About

                              Hepatitis on a Stick? : Street Food in China
                                               By Larry Jer

             Eat anything that flies except airplanes; eat anything with legs except the table.

                                          -   Chinese adage (But Larry wishes he’d said it first!)

                                     exotic name, then served up          of tiny field trips for my
                                     with smothering sauces and an        palate.
                                     inflated tab.
                                                                          Actually, street food is easier
                                     I am no different than many of       to order than in traditional
                                     you, born and raised in North        restaurants.      You can see
                                     America. True to Canadian            exactly what you’re getting,
                                     tradition, all foodstuffs deemed     watch them prepare it and
                                     inedible or unsightly are            without ever having to call it
                                     disposed       of,    garburated,    by name, you can always just
                                     vaporized;          atomic-sized     say “zai lai yige.” Translation:
                                     remnants chased into oblivion        “Kiss me, you fool.”         No,
Eating street cuisine in China       by antibacterial sprays so even
                                     its essence no longer existed to
                                                                          really, this useful phrase means
                                                                          “one more, please.” If not,
did not come easily to me.
Without ever having set foot         offend.                              simply move on to the next
in the Middle Kingdom, I                                                  goodie wagon.
agreed to teach English for a        What happened? I was eating
year in Shenyang, northeast of       reasonably well in China. Why
Beijing.                             rock the rickshaw? Well, each
                                     day as I rode past countless
Shenyang      is heavy into          street   vendors,     tantalizing
industry and is known more for       bouquets wafted from their
its sooty sky than as a haven        carts and kiosks, promising
of epicurean delight-- the air       fresh pastries, grilled seafood,
itself   so     chunked      with    barbecued lamb-- the siren
particulate matter, it might         scents chasing me back to my
actually qualify as a sidedish or    flat where I would sit and           They say you never forget
at the very least, a condiment.      contemplate      my       roomy      your first.     Mine was five
                                     dungarees.                           silkworm kebabs for a yuan
I lost twenty-five pounds over                                            (15 cents), not at all deterred
ten months that year, a change       It was as good an appetizer as       by the fact that a few British
so dramatic I certainly could        one could get as I always            expats named the pungent
have marketed the diet,              arrived at my school’s cafeteria     tidbits, “hepatitis on a stick.”
perhaps under the pen name,          with great anticipation and not      As I stood astride my flashy red
Dr. Fill.    For I was never         a little drool. I tossed down        girl's bike enjoying my treats,
hungry yet I was soon punching       meals with much elan because,        my senses must certainly have
new holes on the negative side       sadly, I couldn’t afford to shed     been heightened.      How else
of my belt.                          any more body weight, my             could I notice that the kebabs
                                     body mass dropping like it had       were in fact, skewered on old
Logic follows, with a billion-       no emergency chute. Not only         bicycle spokes? Enterprising.
plus mouths in the land, each        for necessity and weight             Chinese have found a new way
twig and root, every niblet and      concerns, I explored the city’s      to recycle a cycle.
giblet, would be taste-tested at     food subculture as another
some point. If the morsel had        aspect of life in China, dozens      These days, in a perfectly
potential, it was afforded an                                             scrubbed suburb of Vancouver,                               Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   10
it’s been a year and an eternity    only thing keeping your fingers     While waiting patiently for his
since rolling through the streets   from frostbite is the freshly       nomad gene to kick in, Larry
of Shenyang. Can I honestly         roasted yam you hold? How           spends much of his day within
say I miss the foul air,            can I not miss it?                  arm's length of reclining furniture.
                                                                        He travels extensively in his mind
chopsticks that have never
                                                                        and to a much lesser degree by
seen soapy water, huddling                                              commercial airlines.
close to the makeshift oven
because it’s minus 20 and the

                               Beyond the Surface
                                              The Dance
                                          By Ryan Forsythe

                                    other floating markets where        Reaching into the bags, the
                                    hundreds of small boats             women would pull out a handful
                                    converge as their owners barter     of colorful bead bracelets, smile
                                    and trade. This is the opium        earnestly and shout, with their
                                    market, a pack of short, stocky     grinning black and yellow teeth
                                    women that float to wherever        buzzing up and down like
                                    in town white people with           bumblebees: "Brace-let? Two-
                                    overstuffed backpacks can be        tousand! Two-tousand!..."
                                                                        Almost in unison, the twenty
Up     near Laos’ border with       I discovered them the moment
                                    I arrived.    Or, rather, they
                                                                        bus riders spoke out. "No. No,
                                                                        thanks. Not interested. No, I
China, lies Muang Sing, a tiny
                                    discovered me. The only way         don't want!"        Only after
town with one dusty main drag,
                                    to Muang Sing is from Luang         repeated denials of their
a     few    guesthouses     and
                                    Nam Tha. It's less than 40          bracelets, did the women
restaurants scattered to either
                                    miles, but takes more than 2        casually lift up the jewelry to
side.      With its French-
                                    hours in a crowded bumpy bus.       reveal something hidden in
influenced wooden buildings and
                                    And who should welcome you          their palm, small tablespoon
banisters, and a lone pig or the
                                    to town, after your trip? The       size bags of fine dark-chocolate
occasional pack of chickens
                                    women of the Akha hilltribe,        colored powder.
walking free, there’s a sense of
                                    who come into town from
a swinging-door ol’ west
                                    outlying villages in the hopes      "Op-yum?"
frontier town. I didn’t see any
                                    of making a few dollars.
horses gallop by, but three
                                                                        They never actually spoke the
elephants strolled past as I
                                    Stepping foot off the bus, I was    word, perhaps out of fear for
downed my beer.
                                    immediately surrounded by five      some     police or      military
                                    or six of them, some carrying       authority we never saw, or
The town has two markets.
                                    kids, but each with a proud         maybe to quicken our heartbeat
The main market near the bus
                                    helmet of pink cloth held fast      at the secret danger of their
stop is a great spot for people
                                    with headband bracelets of tin      forbidden fruit. It was always
watching and picking up cheap
                                    disks, coins, beads, and shells.    just mouthed. Either that or
wares: scarves and handbags
                                    Each woman had at least two         they’d make a puffing or
made by local hilltribes; name
                                    or three handbags somewhere         sucking or blowing sound. Not
brand knock-offs, such as
                                    on their person—in their            so with the marijuana—that
Nikei: "Just For You;” fruits I
                                    hands, over shoulders, some         was always a whisper: "Ganja?"
never knew existed; and, of
                                    even hanging down their backs
course, stacks of raw meat
                                    with the handles slung around       They’d open up the bags to
attracting crowds of flies.
                                    their foreheads like sweatbands.    reveal more bracelets, some
                                                                        bamboo containers, and big
Then there’s the floating
                                                                        bags of grass alongside the
market. It’s not quite like                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006    11
small bags of opium powder.         then, the Akha organize. They        rubbing each of Julia’s fingers,
And they'd point. Want some         gather in a circle of 9 or 12, I     while a third woman dug her
of this?                            think      to    plot    strategy:   fingers into Julia’s back. Don’t
                                    “Mouthing        ‘ganja’     isn’t   like what’s in the bag? Try
With a dozen or so of them          working…we may have to start         some Lao lovin’ instead.
waiting for our bus of twenty       whispering.” Or maybe it's to
passengers, each of us was able     discuss who's managed to             I ran into a lot of people who
to tango with a good half of        escape their grasp:         “Keep    ran fast from Muang Sing, just
them before the driver dropped      working that guy from Ohio,          because of the ladies.      The
our packs from the bus's            ladies; he’s not leaving without     Danish family couldn’t stand
rooftop rack. I was one of the      a purchase.” Of course, it could     the constant offering of drugs.
first to get my backpack and as     be the opposite: “The smiling        The Frenchman called it a zoo.
I walked down the street, the       Australian woman has brought         Others felt the women were
symphony       of    solicitation   six bracelets already—keep at        just     too    darn      pushy.
played behind me: cries of          her, girls, keep at her!”            Understandable, all.         But
"Brace-let!"    swirling     with                                        compared with visits to Ho Chi
screams of "No, leave me            And then they break huddle—3         Minh City and New Delhi and
alone." Sucking sounds and          wandering that way, 4 toward         Arusha, Tanzania, I found the
bags rustling mixed together        the bus stop, 2 off to run           women were harmless. Always
with shouts of "I said I don't      interference, maybe 2 more           smiling, they’d go away after a
want any!" And the whispers         hanging back to gauge the            few minutes. Or if you walked
of "Ganja?" interspersed with       assault and plan their next          away, there’d be no problem.
queries of "Hmmm, how much          attack.                              The safari touts in Tanzania
did you say?"                                                            and the small kids in Saigon can
                                    My second day brought                always keep up with you—no
I stayed at the Muang Sing          breakfast with Aussies Neil and      matter how fast you walk or
Guest House. Beds were comfy        Julia at the Tailu Guest House       run. But these ladies didn’t
enough, but I never did find a      and Restaurant, but it also          have it in them. Cradling a kid
light switch in my room. Not        brought something new to the         or two, sporting 3 or 4 sacks of
much need, I guess, when the        repertoire of the Akha women.        drugs (and bracelets)—they just
whole town together goes dark       They surrounded our table—no         don’t have the gas to keep up
at the same time each night.        escaping, at least not until we      if you keep on walking.
Sure, we had light when needed,     finish our omelets. First came
as it kicked on around 6:24pm       the bracelet offers. No, no,         Of course, no reason to run if
and off around 8:57pm. It was       no—not interested. Next, the         you're there to talk business:
a good thing I didn’t want to be    silent soliciting of drugs. Not      opium, ganja, or bracelets. Or
fast asleep during those hours,     today, no thank you. Third           even a massage.
though I suppose the mosquito       time's the charm, the ladies
would have kept out a bit of        thought, and tossed their new        Ryan Forsythe was born in
the bright fluorescent light.       ammo.                                Cleveland, and once climbed a hill
                                                                         in a Malaysian rainforest with the
For under $3/night, I couldn’t
                                                                         then-Miss India, but can now be
complain much.                      "Massage?"                           found in California, with his wife
                                                                         Kaci, son Rory, and school bus,
My room 209 overlooked the          Before Julia could respond,          Lola. For two years, he wrote
main street, so I was able to       there was a hilltribe woman          "Traveling Light" for the Oberlin
safely observe the ladies in all    rubbing each shoulder, pulling       News-Tribune,     a   light-hearted
their splendor. Every now and       her hands this way and that,         column focusing on budget travel.                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   12
                              Cobra Show Thailand (The Floating Market)
                                         By Jessica Titlebaum

            coconut 10 baht, they say                     I feel like I am on a ride at Disney World,
       sun beating down on my shoulders                             I say to Mary next to me
              glare in my sunglasses                    fake bags like Louis’ are sold alongside spices
           on paddle boats in the canal                          like galangale and chili pepper
   Thais eating fried noodle soup out of blue
                       dishes                          I see a Buddha image I would like for my living
         with chopsticks, floating along                                    room wall
                   a traffic jam                             but it would be too hard to carry home
sun still shining off the gold rim of my glasses       the woman in front of me in a yellow tank top
  a French man in white pants buys a mango                          buys a Mango for 40 baht
           and peels it for his girlfriend               its sticky and sweet and when offered to me
                                                          slides from my fingers and stains my jeans.
    a local holds an umbrella over her head
 an Israeli couple passes in the boat next to us
   and in this heat she still wears a hair wig

                                    Beyond Culture

                                         Tanduay and Cokes
                                       By Brenda Lee Intengan

                                    “But I have a tan now! I’ve
On my eighth night in Moal          been here for two weeks! You        “Your mother is from Sogod?”
Boal, I found myself in the         are crazy.”
Chili Bar, playing pool and                                             “Yes. When we were children,
drinking San Miguels with a         “Where are you from?”               my brothers and my sister and I
friend I had met on the dive                                            would come here during our
boat that afternoon, a law          “I was born in Chicago. But         summer vacation.        For us,
student from Boston who             my parents are both Cebuano.        summer vacation is during June,
studied in Hong Kong for the        Not only are they both              July and August- not April to
semester. He was vacationing        filipino, but they are both from    June like here. So we would be
in the Philippines for a quick      Cebu.      My father is from        in town for the fiesta in Sogod
break, before heading to Sierra     Balamban, my mother is from         in July. I would meet all of our
Leone to do legal defense for       Sogod.”       I had had this        cousins and we would all sleep
war criminals on behalf of the      conversation with almost every      on     the    floor    in    my
U.N.     A young filipino with      filipino stranger that I had met    grandfather’s house.”
short hair and high cheekbones      since I flew into Cebu. “So I
in a white tank top sauntered       really, truly, I am a filipina.”    “My mother is from Sogod
over and introduced himself.                                            too!     She is from the
                                    I waited for this information to    mountains just outside Sogod!
“I heard you are a filipina.        register as I leaned over to aim    What is your last name?”
When I look at you, I can’t         my cue.
believe   it,” he  declared                                             “My last name is Intengan.
cheekily.                           “But you don’t speak Bisaya?”       My mother’s last name is
                                                                        Comendador.” I loved saying
“Oh really. Do I not look like      “My parents never taught me.        her name, it sounds so Spanish
a filipina?”                        They wanted us to master the        and authoritative.
                                    English language. I’m learning       “Comendador. I will tell my
“No, you look Japanese.”            Cebuano now though, gamay           mother. Maybe tomorrow you
                                    lang.”                              can meet her? We will have a                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   13
barbecue in the afternoon. You      lechon on special occasions. A      Noir or a Sancerre instead of
should come and meet my             lot of my closest girlfriends       Tanduay and Cokes.
mother. I will tell her all about   happen to be filipinas- maybe
you tonight. Where are you          we just understand each other’s     “Huh?”
staying? How long will you be       lives better. We get together
here?”                              all the time and eat.”              “Yeah. Don’t ask. It's girl
 “Hey man, I think it’s a little                                        stuff. Anyhow, I know I did
too soon to meet your mother.       “You like filipino food?”           not grow up here, but my
I am diving in the afternoon, I                                         parents are very filipino. I was
have no time for partying. We       “Of course I do!            It is   raised the same way you were.”
are probably related anyways.”      comforting to me. Last month
                                    I was in Germany and I met a        “What do you mean?”
“Probably. So what’s it like in     filipina who cooked calderata
Chicago? Did you ever meet          for us, and it was so nice to eat   "Did you ever have to kneel in
Michael Jordan?”                    filipino food in a foreign          the corner and face the wall
                                    country.        I    felt    more   when you were bad?"
“No, but this girl I know, a        comfortable, immediately. My
filipina, claims to have dated      girlfriends and I do all the same   His eyes grew large, and he
Scottie Pippen.      Chicago is     things that I do with the girls     stood up and pointed at me.
very cold. I practically did not    that I’ve met here on               "You are a maldita! You are
see the sun for fourteen            Panagsama Beach. We eat-            the maldita of the family!!!
months! I’m exaggerating, but       pancit,      palabok,      adobo,   Yes, yes, I had to do that! I
last year the weather never got     everything.”                        even had to hold a glass of
warmer than 85 degrees- I                                               water in each hand!"
mean 25 degrees.         In the     “What else?”
wintertime it gets very cold.                                           He stretched out his arms like
You have to wear a sweater, a       “We talk... about most of the       he was being crucified, palms up
big coat, gloves, a hat, a scarf,   same things I talk about with       and eyes rolled to the ceiling.
long pants, socks and boots just    the girls I know from here.”
to go outside to get a                                                  "Whatever. I had to kneel on
newspaper. The snow can be as       “Like what?”                        a pilke of uncooked rice!", I
high as your knee. Girls pay 20                                         trumped.
dollars to lie in tanning beds,     I blushed. “Umm... we talk
with long strong lights lining      about boys and astrology.”          "Did your father chase you
the inside, and they close                                              around and spank you with his
themselves in it just like a        Last night at the Lipay Lipay       belt?", he asked.
coffin to burn their skin           bar on the beach, I attended a
because there is no sun. That’s     one year anniversary party, at      "Oh man, that happened all the
why I am so pale. It’s not          which I sat with four filipinas     time."
good for a filipina to be in the    for dinner. After the initial
cold.”                              questions about where I had         "See, I knew you were the
                                    come from, a girl named Sally       maldita of your family."
His eyes grew large with            casually asked me what my
wonder, and the law student set     zodiac sign was.       I was in     The word maldita used to make
another beer in front of me and     familiar territory. The next        me wince. My mother would
lit me cigarette. I nodded my       hour was a flooded with             say it in fury, in a long, slow
thanks.                             astrological analysis, which we     accusatory tone with her jaw
                                    applied to the various love         jutted out. "Maal-diii-taaa." It
“Are there other filipinos in       interests in our lives and our      always came at the moment
Chicago?”                           own         personal       self-    that I got caught doing
                                    investigations. Oddly enough,       something bad. I thought that
“ There are a lot of filipinos      had I been in Chicago that          it sounded like a curse, and
there. I grew up with many          evening, I probably would have      hearing the word had always
filipino friends who were born      found myself doing the exact        made me flinch.
there just like me. We eat          same thing with my close
filipino food, we have parties      girlfriends, except we would        The week before, however, I
on the weekend and order a big      have been drinking a Pinot          chanced upon a little boutique                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   14
that had the word Maldita            lifted off my shoulders. Before     wits about me. I do a better job
written across its entrance in       I left the shop, I bought two       at that than any of my male
the mall. It sold clothes for        tank tops that had Maldita          relatives can. When we go out,
young women, and featured an         sassily emblazoned across the       I have to babysit them."
ad with a girl proudly sporting      back.
the word across her t-shirt. I                                           He backed away and looked at
walked in.                           "If I wasn't the maldita of the     me from across the pool table.
                                     family, do you think that I         We were evenly matched.
"What does Maldita mean?" I          could be staying here alone?
asked the girl at the counter.       My mother would die if she          "Can I buy you a drink?" I
                                     knew I was hours away from          asked. I went and got another
"A bad girl."                        my family in Cebu City, scuba       round of San Miguels without
                                     diving everyday, and staying        waiting for his reply.
"My mom used to call me that         out until the early morning
all the time. Both of my             playing pool, singing videoke       "Salud. To being Cebuanos and
parents are from Cebu. So, its       and drinking beer with cute         malditos."
bad, like an evil girl?"             boys from all over the world!
                                     She wouldn't even let me sleep      Brenda Lee Intengan was born and
"Its not bad like that.       More   over at anyone's house until        raised in Chicago, and spent the
like... a rebellious girl."          the day I left for college! And     summers of her youth on Mactan
                                     when we came to Cebu when I         Island in the Philippines. The
                                                                         island is famous for the legendary
"Not like a curse then?"             was a kid, she wouldn't let us go
                                                                         battle in which the local chieftan
                                     anywhere without a driver or a      Lapu Lapu defeated Ferdinand
"No, like you just do whatever       nanny." He considered this.         Magellan in hand to hand combat
you want.       Like you have                                            when he led a Spanish invasion in
attitude, or you are free."          "You should have a brother, or      1521. She resides in Chicago,
                                     a cousin with you."                 where she skateboards, dances to
I could practically feel the                                             house music, practices the filipino
gears turning in my head as          "But I know that I can defend       martial art of Eskrima, and writes
many,     many       gaps     of     myself. Being a maldita, I have     about the chaos and irony of her
misunderstanding filled, and for     found     myself    in    many      daily     life   and     existence.
some strange reason the weight       situations where I have to look
of many years of guilt were          out for myself and keep my                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   15
                              Beyond the Destination
                                        Hitchhiking the World
                                             By David King

                                    technique     of  approaching        wanna’ make sure you don’t
“You’re   enormous,” begins a       people at gas stations when          need anything.”
message of admiration on            traveling    over  land   and
Ludovic Hubler’s Web site. It’s     soliciting rides on boats to         By the same token, he has
just one of over 300 such           cross water. Other modes of          found hitchhiking in the U.S.
postings from people around         transportation have included         to be more difficult than in
the world who have written to       plane, snowmobile, donkey,           other countries. He attributes
express praise and support for      and dromedary.                       this to what he sees as “a
Hubler and his journey.                                                  culture      of     fear     and
                                    Before reaching the United           individualism more important
While      the     28-year-old      States last October, Hubler          than Latin America or Africa.”
Frenchman from the city of          touched 27 countries across          Once, for example, he found
Strasbourg    may     not    be     Europe, Africa, and South            himself waiting next to a road
enormous     himself,     many      America. (He decided to travel       under a strong rain for a long
consider his trip to be. On         west, because westward winds         time, watching as hundreds of
January 1, 2003, Hubler set off     make sailing easier in that          cars passed by. Another time, a
from France to hitchhike            direction.) He has a budget of       police officer in Florida, where
around the world, a journey he      about ten dollars a day,             hitchhiking is illegal, offered
expects to complete by 2008.        carrying most of his belongings      him the choice of paying for a
                                    between two backpacks and            taxi or going to jail— both of
Yes, around the world.              washing his clothes every eight      which Hubler narrowly escaped
                                    or nine days. To fund his trip,      when a driver who overheard
Speaking at a gathering of          he has obtained money from           the conversation offered to
French enthusiasts in Chicago,      sponsors and written articles        drive him. (When that same
Hubler recounts his often-told      for local newspapers in France,      driver let him off, Hubler found
story. When he was eight or         in addition to using his personal    himself approached by the
nine years old, he would look at    savings. He has no phone but         police again. Only this time,
maps and think to himself that      does      carry     international    the officers were sympathetic
he’d some day travel the world.     medical insurance.                   and helped him to find another
When he reached his late teens,                                          vehicle.) On still another
his parents let him hitchhike;      The reactions in the U.S. to         occasion, one driver did not
he began in Strasbourg and then     Hubler as a Frenchman have           pick up Hubler because the man
branched out in his region, to      been diverse. “Some people           wasn’t going in his direction—
other parts of France, and          love my country,” he remarks,        but did invite Hubler to
eventually to other countries in    “and some others hate it.” One       Thanksgiving dinner.
Europe. He would seek out           man refused to pick him up
drivers at gas stations, a tactic   because Hubler was French; five      Over the course of his journey,
that allowed him to choose          minutes later, another told him      he has ridden with people who
someone with whom he felt           he wished that the U.S. and          were drunk, who drove 150
comfortable.                        France       had      a     better   miles per hour, or— on one
                                    relationship— and was all too        occasion— who had a gun in
Hubler began his trek around        happy to let the Frenchman           the dash (Hubler was fine with
the world with one restriction:     ride. All in all, Hubler generally   that, so long as the driver
he wouldn’t spend any money         has been well-received in this       didn’t use it on him). In
to travel from place to place.      country, he says, especially by      Columbia, he passed through
(He would, however, pay to          families. “ They really want         the so-called “red zone,” a
travel within a city once           you to feel at home,” he             dangerous area inhabited by
there.) Over the past nearly        observes of many families.           guerillas. Throughout it all,
three years, he has lived a         “ They want you to get the           Hubler, who is about 6 feet 2
nomadic life, mostly using the      Coke in the fridge any time and                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   16
inches tall, says he’s never       Hubler estimates that 80            He recognizes an inherent
been threatened.                   million people have heard of        danger in hitchhiking but
                                   his    trip.    He    has been      nonetheless sees it as an
He believes it’s important to      interviewed numerous times by       effective way to get to know
share his experiences with         the     media,    including    an   people across social and
others, and to that end, he        appearance on Programa do Jô,       cultural backgrounds. As for
speaks at schools, universities,   the      most       widely-viewed   this trip, one of his greatest
Alliance Françaises, and other     Portuguese-language talk show.      satisfactions has been seeing
places and occasionally posts      One of the most important           with his own eyes that “the
writings to his Web site,          audiences to him, however, has      vast majority of people in the Recent      been a group of some 30 cancer      world are honest and nice.”
entries have included musings      patients     at    a Strasbourg
on         the       Quebecois’    hospital to whom he acts as a       Hubler, who received a Master
protectiveness of the French       mentor. He writes to the            of Science in Management
language, the insularity of the    patients, aged 15 to 18, about      from the Strasbourg Business
Amish community, and the           the places he visits, and they,     School three years ago, is
diversity of New York City. He     in turn, use his writings— and      considering working some day
also sends out an E-mail           webcam appearances— to study        for the United Nations or to
newsletter— which friends          subjects such as geography,         strengthen ties between the
translate for him into English     history, and math.                  European Union and Latin
and Spanish— to people on his                                          America. But all that is for
mailing list every six to eight    “ The more you travel, the          later. At last check, Ludovic
weeks. “If I would meet my         more you switch […] from a          Hubler was in New Zealand. He
parents today,” he says half-      ‘local thinker to a ‘global         had some 25 countries left to
jokingly, “I wouldn’t have that    thinker,’    and     you    start   go.
much to tell them.”                considering all the world around
                                   you,” says Hubler, who speaks       David King is a freelance writer in
                                   confidently and has a big smile.    Chicago. He can be reached at:

                               Travele r’ s Se cret
                                      Shopping Secret: Tchibo
                                           By Kate Baggot

                                                     women’s winter underwear, and his and her
Tchibo is the shopping adventure      to discover    pyjama sets. Another week featured horseback
on your visit to Germany. A chain of “coffee”        riding gear for young girls and children’s
stores found across the country, several different   raincoats, rubber boots and hats.
blends of freshly ground coffee can be purchased
every business day. But coffee, as a German radio    The only problem is that, on the streets of
comedy recently put it, is quickly becoming an       Germany, everyone recognises every Tchibo
after thought. “Boss, this lady wants to buy         purchase. Style and distinction come through
some coffee. We don’t sell coffee here, do we?”      combining the goods with more individual pieces
asked the comic salesgirl.                           of clothing and accessories. Luckily, no one is
                                                     likely to recognise your purchases at home.
“Every week is a new world,” goes the Tchibo
slogan, and every Tuesday shopoholics across         And, if you have to find a gift for that
Germany crowd window displays to see what            quintessential difficult person to buy for, there’s
wonders that world has to offer for the next         always coffee.
seven days. Recent offerings included cell phone
packages placed beside the most comfortable                            Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   17
                                       Place & Time
                                      Ghost Month in Hong Kong
                                           By Nicole Trilivas

                                     mooncake if she gets me to
A     typhoon cloaked Hong           Lantau Island safely. Between       I pounce up the stairs – very
Kong in a dense fog. The air,        the typhoon and the ghosts          un-monk like – but the
saturated and weighty, hugged        I’m beginning to feel ganged up     Nepalese chanting, like incense
my clothes like a scared child.      on.                                 smoke spiraling upward from
It was, after all, ghost month                                           the monastery below, fuels me.
(August), and I had to tread         Lantau is covered in a thicket      I begin to see the Buddha’s
carefully as spirits could be        of green. The abundance of          silhouette above the steep,
freely roaming the eerie             forest on Lantau resulted in the    never-ending stairs in front of
landscape.                           island being called the “lungs of   me.
                                     Hong Kong.” Heavy, opaque
Hong Kong seemed hushed with         mist      lounged      ominously    The great bronze Tian Tan
superstition. The smell of           throughout     its    precipitous   Buddha sits 85 feet high above
incense hung thick in the air,       peaks like a bad crowd. If these    Po Lin. Hand-raised, and ear
and even restaurants put out         are Hong Kong’s lungs it looks      lobes sagging; he’s both
extra place settings in the          like she’s a smoker.                formidable      and    subdued.
middle of their tables for any                                           Although initially disheartened
lurking spirits. Always the          The mysterious ambience is          by the austere weather, the
considerate traveler, I also tried   provoking. I resolve to put my      overcast backdrop makes the
to be accommodating- it’s            American tourist-mentality on       scene ethereal, and I slip with
considered dangerous to travel       pause. I cannot be troubled to      ease back into tourist mode
during ghost month and the last      get the perfect picture, and I      rapidly firing my camera, and
thing I needed was a vaporous        cannot waste time looking           plunging     back   into    my
ghost chasing away my luck.          down at a guidebook with all        guidebook.
                                     this      haunting       beauty
The tradition through osmosis        surrounding me.                     The restless spirits scatter and
was seeping into me, I thought,                                          the fog parts as I descend
as my ferry undulated in the         I am a religious wanderer. This     towards the Nepalese chanting.
spooky, gray waters of the           is my pilgrimage. I am the          The Tian Tan Buddha’s behind
South China Sea. I recalled Tin      penitent monk looking for the       me, watching my back.
Hau, the Taoist goddess of the       Tian Tan Buddha. I climb the
sea I had read about in the          steps in Po Lin Monastery.          Nicole Trilivas is a 2005 graduate
Hotel’s     tourist   attractions    The heavens are unforgiving,        of Boston University's College of
book. Hong Kong, reliant on          and shower me. Good thing           Communications. She is currently
trade and encased by salty           I’ve decided to stop being a        working in advertising in New York
water, is scattered with temples     tourist because something like      City, as well as pursuing a career in
and shrines devoted to Tin           rain would have really gotten       freelance writing. Nicole can be
Hau- protector of seafarers. I       me down, but as an unruffled        reached at:
think of her now, and silently       monk enveloped in spirituality,
promise her half of my               I am unfazed!                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006     18
                                Traveler’s Wisdom
                                               Get Lost!
                                    By Kathleen M. Wooton, M.D.

                                    experience as you enlist the         Montezuma in your travels.
Someone has just told you to        help of the natives to help find     Brushing up on your Spanish
get lost. This is as an insult to   your way home.          And the      wouldn’t hurt either, just in
the world at large. It’s a not so   beauty is, it takes so very little   case you succeed in angering
polite request for you to make      effort to do it well. If you         Montezuma and you need to
an immediate change in venue,       believe variety is the spice of      quickly find the loo.
a statement that one person’s       life, embracing the lost lifestyle
view of the world is a lot better   will spice up your life              To wholeheartedly get lost,
without you in it, a fervent        considerably.                        you need to think globally. To
wish     for     your     instant                                        totally    and    royally lose
teleportation     to   anywhere     You can start on your road to        yourself in a place where you
other than where you are now.       adventure by taking a shortcut       don’t speak the language is the
It is, in essence, the ultimate     to the grocery store - a.k.a.        ultimate journey into the Lost
“beam     him      up, Scotty”      getting lost close to home.          Realms. Prior to doing this,
moment.                             With any luck, soon you’ll see       you must be sure you’ve
                                    new neighborhoods, meet new          memorized “please direct me
I just don’t see it that way.       people, and find cool places to      to the American Embassy” in
Getting lost is so much more        shop.     It’s a mini-vacation       several different languages (or,
than that, and can be a heck of     that is doubly delightful for its    if you’re concerned about anti-
a lot of fun. To me, “Get           sheer               spontaneity.     American sentiment, ask for
Lost” is an invitation to           Unfortunately, you’ll have to        the Canadian Embassy and
explore a brave new world, a        enjoy it while you can, for you      make sure you can sing the first
fascinating way to travel the       may not pass that way again.         two verses of “Oh, Canada” by
globe and meet new people.          Getting lost as recreation is an     heart), or you may find
It’s a challenge, a dare, an        art form, but getting lost in the    yourself in the middle of a
alternative to the safe and the     same place twice takes years of      messy international incident.
mundane. It’s a spontaneous         practice.                            Remember, there is no clever
journey into the unknown, and                                            "My wrong turn landed me in a
it is as simple as making one       A step up on the lost-o-meter        foreign jail and all I got was
wrong turn. I do it all the time.   is the family vacation. Buy a        this lousy T-shirt" top which
                                    map, rent an RV, pack up your        you can sport after such an
Get lost and see the world -        family     and    gather  your       ordeal.
that’s been my experience thus      passports, it’s time to follow
far. I highly recommend it - I      the open road. It’s loads of         The next time someone tells
think the world be a much           fun, and you may even get to         you to get lost, be sure to
happier place if people got lost    see Canada or Mexico without         thank him or her and do just
more often.       The joys of       even     trying (hence,    the       that. Get lost. See the world.
discovery and meeting new           passports). Be sure to take          You never know where you’ll
people more than compensate         along a plentiful supply of          touch down.
for       the        temporary      bottled water and Pepto-
embarrassment            you’ll     Bismol, just in case you anger                              Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   19
                                    World Foods
                                       Schnitzel International
                                           By Kate Baggot

We all know Weiner Schnitzel sautéed in butter      from around the world. Care for some Schnitzel
                                                    Griechischerart? It comes dressed in a Greek-
or deep-fried, Jaeger Schnitzel in its deep brown
                                                    style combination of tomato sauce, tomatoes,
huntsman’s      gravy,     or     maybe      even
                                                    black olives and feta. Or, if you feel like
PilzenSchnitzel covered in mushroom sauce. But
                                                    something from home, try the Bonanza
do you know Schnitzel Mafioso or Hawiian
                                                    Schnitzel covered in chilli and grated American
Schnitzel? As the world grows smaller the
                                                    cheese. Is it surprising that our local, Schnitzel
number of ways Germans enjoy their schnitzel is
                                                    Express, does a sideline in pizza?
increasing. Our local take-out and delivery place
offers dozens of options inspired by cuisines

                                    True Traveler
                                           Big (Sur)Prise!
                                        By Janice Arenofsky

I hate surprises — especially      According to Mr. Park Ranger,       scrambled our feet. We trudged
                                   we had a choice of two trails.      up earth-packed, dusty inclines,
ones   caused by     careless
                                   One      led  through    dense      tripped over hidden roots and
                                   underbrush and oaks to a large      staggered downhill, sliding to
                                   eucalyptus grove that sheltered     shaky and slippery stops. Up,
Take Big Sur in California.
                                   hordes of migrating monarch         down, up, down. If this was a
From the time the forest
                                   butterflies. The other route        nature walk, I was Martha
ranger at    Andrew Molera
                                   bypassed the winged beauties,       Stewart!
State Park instructed me to
                                   blazing a scenic path to the
"have a good day," I sensed I
                                   beach.                              In an effort to interact with
was on shaky ground--no, it
                                                                       the environment as well as
wasn't an earthquake. It felt
                                   We chose Door Number One.           keep up our morale, we chatted
more like a highway traffic sign
                                                                       about the hotel naturalist’s
warning,    "Danger     Ahead.
                                   For the record, I have nothing      orientation spiel on Big Sur and
Faulty Language."
                                   whatsoever against exercise or,     its natural beauty and pristine
                                   for that matter, rocks, dirt and    surroundings. Lately, though, a
I could tell the Keeper of the
                                   creepy-crawlies. But people         terrorist had invaded its shores,
Conifers       was     verbally
                                   employing phrases like “nature      our guide told us. The
challenged from the way he
                                   walk,” when what they really        California beetle was destroying
ticked off (from memory) the
                                   mean is a three-mile HIKE           hundreds of Big Sur's trees,
park rules: Don't litter; don't
                                   with    all   the     trimmings,    causing a disease our local bio-
bring domestic animals; don't
                                   including poison ivy, pesky         expert called “Sudden Oak
touch the vegetation; don't
                                   wildlife and pulled muscles,        Death.”
squeeze the Charmin. The list
                                   need     to    carry      pocket
went on and on. This was
                                   dictionaries—at all times.          "What a ridiculous name," I
followed by an educational
                                                                       said to my husband as we
overview of the flora and fauna
                                   We suffered scrubby shrubs that     trudged through yet another
we could expect to see during
                                   scratched our ankles, low,          rain-starved copse. "All I can
our "nature walk."
                                   overhanging branches that           picture is a giant ICU forest
                                   swatted our heads and narrow,       with dying trees hooked up to
                                   rock-protruding passages that                            Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   20
dozens    of       moss-covered    “hundreds”      the    concierge     coronary for 50 feathery bugs?
oxygen tanks."                     promised. A case of mistaken         “I hope they really, really,
                                   hyperbole?! Had our resident         really want to see those
My husband snickered. "Maybe       travel host miscommunicated?         butterflies,” I said to a
that's the real reason why         Were we being led down the           companion.
Medicare is tanking."              garden path of overstatement
"Yup," I joked back. "They         and exaggeration?                    When we finally stumbled into
turned over every leaf looking     We still held out hope,              the parking lot and crawled
for that name. Even “Beetle-       however, for Vista Point at the      into our roasty-toasty rental
Mania” would have been             end of the trail. Our travel         car, I could barely breathe,
better.”                           agent had touted the natural         much less speak. “When does
                                   beauty of precipitous cliffs and     the fun begin?” I mouthed.
By now, we were yuking it up       clear, shining ocean water, but
big     time--and      sweating    one glance told us she               “After tomorrow’s 'leisurely
profusely. Had it not been for     misspoke. We gawked as a             stroll' to the waterfalls,” my
our overpowering desire to see     truckload of teens with ghetto       companion hissed back. “At
the much heralded butterflies,     blasters noisily waded across a      least that’s what the brochure
we might have pulled up a few      crystal clear inlet connecting us    says.”
rocks, rested our derrières and    to a strip of sandy beach. The
swapped one-liners.                kids' high-pitched hollering         Leisurely stroll? Uh oh!
                                   inspired us to head back to base
“We’re getting closer to the       camp, ASAP.                          Can you say rock climbing?
butterflies,” my companion
said excitedly. “Are you ready     On the way, we noticed other         Janice Arenofsky is a Scottsdale,
for the Monarchs of Molera?”       nature worshippers. I briefly        Arizona-based freelance writer who
                                   considered       warning      one    has written essays, features and
Snapping our heads to and fro,     morbidly obese couple of the         profiles for many national venues,
                                                                        including               Newsweek,
we risked whiplash, watching       exhaustion that awaited them.
                                                              ,             VFW
the colorful creatures slip in     But how do you tell Southern         Magazine, and Modern Maturity.
and out of the leafy branches.     California’s poster pair for
Minutes later, we had counted      conspicuous         consumption
50     butterflies—not     the     (literally) that they’re risking a

                                        Upon The Charming

                                         By Jessica Titlebaum

    was a jewelry boutique on Le Thanh Ton            since they knew nothing of Visa and Mastercard
           in District 2 of Ho Chi Mihn                I hesitantly placed the ring back on the display
that I stumbled upon while looking for an ATM             promising myself that I would return after
          one evening at the end of July                                 getting cash
       beautiful gems set in silver and gold
 fashionable and chic I saw my reflection in the        similar to Venice, Saigon has little alley ways
                       window                           twists and turns in the road to get a foreigner
                                                                    lost beyond recognition
 I found a blue ring surrounded by carved flowers      and it seemed that Uncle Ho Chi Mihn himself
 an accessory almost as identifying as the Carrie      didn’t want me to return to 56 Le Thanh Ton
                Bradshaw necklace                        for I searched but never found my way back
  she misplaces in Paris at the end of the season
light sparkled and shined off the diagonal surface       in a taxi and days later, on my way to the
 and I could almost see the crystal waters of my                           airport
                        trip                          we passed the small boutique I had been in before
   on the palm of my hand when I slipped it on          I stopped the driver and ran to buy my ring
                                                           a priceless purchase that only cost $6
                                                                 and no time on the meter.                             Jan/Feb Journey Beyond Travel Magazine © 2006   21

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