I.P.M.S. SALISBURY Newsletter. February 2009 USAF‟s First Aircraft Carrier. “I can see no practical military use for the aeroplane.” by the manufacturer, no weathering or aftermarket (Orville Wright.) details, no special decals. The Zen guide to modelling. The Let’s make it accurate builder– which somehow means the manufacturer messed up and only you with The Out of the Box builder- just follow the your superior research can fix the problem. instructions and follow the paint scheme you are given The Build it for contest builder- and add every UC-64A Norseman aftermarket kit and decal you can find, money is no 1/48th. Junkers Ju 52/3m Zivilversion object. Got to beat the next guy. Take a year to do one C-47 Skytrain "Berlin Airlift" F-117A Nighthawk model. 1/32nd. Glider Duo Discus Grizmek's Do 27 "Serengeti" The “Spanish School” of painting builder – build the Piper PA-18 Float Plane model out of the box and then focus on the painting, Eurofighter Typhoon & Full engine details and construction are really second place. Painting and finish are all that counts. Trumpeter: (Don‟t hold your breath!) 1/32nd. The Recreational builder – I‟ll finish it when I finish it Su 25UB Frogfoot mentality. Whenever, whatever. Messerschmitt Bf 109E F-14D Super Tomcat The AMS builder – so busy trying to build the most F/A-18E Super Hornet perfect model with every conceivable amount of F-18F Super Hornet research and aftermarket details possible that they MiG 23ML Flogger G 1/48th. freeze themselves up and can‟t even finish it. FC1/JF17 Thunder Su 24M Fencer D The Started it but sitting in the box- builder who F-100C Super Sabre starts it and doesn‟t finish it. 50 half finished kits on PLAAF J10A Vigorous Dragon the bench at all times. PLAAF J10B Vigorous Dragon The infamous Rivet Counter- going take out a slide Airfix: ruler to measure your wings and check to see all rivets 1/48th. D.H. Sea Vixen. (2010) are there. AFV Club: The Stash Builder- lots and lots of models in shrink 1/35th. wrapped boxes and not one on the work bench. OK Centurion Mk5 with dozer blade Churchill III AVRE maybe one, but not finished. Recognise anyone? I think we have them all! Tools of the Trade, part 2. Peter. Hon. Sec. Before you even begin making a model, ensure you have the following: “They‟ll never do it. It is only given to God & angels A model kit (yes, you will need to purchase to fly.” (Bishop Wright, father of Orville & Wilbur.) one, or have one bought for you as a gift...). A clear flat surface to work on, in a well lit Trade news: and ventilated area (it's worthwhile getting a small Lindberg are back! OK, some are very dated & odd table lamp to aid in lighting needs). scales, but…. Fancy a 1/48th Fury, Gladiator, Bulldog, A scalpel or small hobby knife (ensure the Boxkite? blade is sharp) for separating your model parts from their plastic sprues - this will also be useful for finer Revell: operations later on. Some modellers prefer nail clippers 1/288th. Airbus A380 "Demonstrator" or scissors for this, and these are recommended for Boeing 747 'Lufthansa' younger modellers as they are much safer, and it saves 1/144th. E-2C Hawkeye money on buying new blades all the time. Boeing 787 Dreamliner A cutting mat, or at the very least, a small off- Fokker D VII cut of wood or a ceramic tile. You need something to 1/72nd. Messerschmitt Me 262B-1/U1 Nightfighter cut against that will allow you to safely use some very Sopwith F1 sharp blades. Let's face facts, plastic is the enemy of Spad XIII C sharp knives. Nothing blunts a razor edge more than F9F-5 Panther "Blue Angels" polystyrene or polythene. However, a dedicated cutting Dornier Do 228 "Marine Patrol" mat is the best choice, for several reasons. It treats your Tornado IDS "Boelcke 50th Anniversary" blades more kindly than wood, ceramic or glass would, T-2C/E Buckeye it is non-slip (an often under-appreciated quality) and, Beaufighter Mk.X finally, it spares damage to any important surface, such P-38 J/M Lightning as a dining table, that might otherwise accumulate Focke Wulf Fw 189A-1 unsightly razor scratches and tool gouges. In these PB4 Y-2 Privateer/Liberator RY-3 circumstances, the careless modeller is sure to acquire Lancaster "Dam Buster" gouges of a different kind, from anyone to whom the F/A-18E Super Hornet table surface is precious, most often a mother or significant other. So get a cutting mat - it spares much Elastic bands, or hair bands. Elastic bands are grief. invaluable for holding parts together while the glue Glue. Polystyrene model cement is usually dries. This is particularly useful in keeping the two supplied in little tubes in a kit box, and can also be halves of an aircraft fuselage together. bought separately. It is recommended as it has a thicker 'Blu Tack'. Helpful in sticking small parts in consistency than Superglue - so is much better for to keep them from going astray, testing fits of parts glueing, and is far less messy. Polystyrene cement before glueing permanently, and sticking cocktail actually 'welds' the parts together rather than merely sticks in with parts that have been painted so they can sticking them, so too much glue will result in an dry properly before handling. amorphous and irretrievable mess. Be especially For adult modellers, a pin chuck & needle careful and thrifty when glueing clear plastic parts, as drills, which can be used to make additional holes - any glue will 'frost' over clear plastic if too much is you'd be amazed how many times you need to open out used. Also highly recommended are the bottles of glue holes or put them in different places, especially if the that come with a needle applicator - these are very kit has optional parts such as under-slung missiles or handy as well. Steer clear of other types of adhesives fuel tanks, or, as occasionally happens, the until you are more experienced. manufacturer neglects to put holes where the Paints. There are two types: enamel and instructions say they should be. acrylic. They come in small bottles or tins4. Acrylic is Patience. water based, whereas enamels must be thinned with Putting It Together turpentine. So you will also need some 'turps' if you Before you start making a model, set aside a choose to use enamel paints. The kit should have a list place to work. Ensure you won't be interrupted, and of recommended paints supplied with it. Make sure that your equipment is safe away from young children you have an adequate supply, and the right type. Paints or pets. Model making is the sport of the individual on for models are much like any other paints; there's matt, most occasions, so it is you and you alone who should gloss and metallic - you really don't want to paint your look after everything. Once you have your kit you are Sherman tank model in gloss green as it will look ready to Open The Box. horrible! If you can, and you intend to make a variety Inside there should be all the parts in plastic of models, stock up on paints. And buy two or more of bags, plus instructions, transfers, and maybe paints and the colours you use more readily. Military modellers glue. will have an endless supply of greens, browns, and Read the instructions thoroughly before 'gun-metal'. And don't chuck away used tins when starting (children under 10 will need adult finished, as they'll be useful as mixer pots in the future. supervision). A few paintbrushes. You will need a large That way you can plan out your model surface brush, then some fine detail brushes. Brushes making properly. The kit parts will be moulded on to come in numbers to show how big they are; 1 upwards sprues of plastic, so you will need to cut each part off are large surface brushes, with 0, 00, 000, 5/0 and 10/0 carefully as you need it. It is often best to paint very being for fine detail. 00 is a pretty good all purpose small parts on the sprue, particularly those that are size. You can pick these up from hobby stores; a going inside the model, as you won't be able to paint hardware shop will sell you paint brushes but they them once they are in! might not do the job intended, and be a trifle large for Open the instructions up and start, funnily your purposes. enough, with section 1. Each of the pieces should be A flat-nosed screwdriver. Essential for numbered, eg A3, B7 etc. The letter will correspond to opening paints. And other stuff. a sprue, the number to a certain piece. Cut off the Two small glasses - one for water, one for pieces and shave off the little 'burrs' on the pieces using turpentine. These are for you to put your paint brushes a file or fine sandpaper - a needle file may be used to in to clean them. rub the cutting point smooth and hide all trace that it A rag. To dry your brushes, or just generally was ever connected to a sprue. If using a knife, place clean up any kind of mess. the sprue on the cutting surface and press the blade Fine-grade sandpaper, for sanding 'burrs' off downwards on the join. You might be able to twist the parts, and useful for cleaning up edges where kit parts piece off the sprue. Be careful though, as you can come together after glueing. A useful extra buy is a damage pieces this way, so it's best to remove it in the packet of needle files. Coming in a variety of shapes standard way. and textures, these versatile files may be used for When removing parts from their sprues you cleaning, fine shaping, opening up location holes, etc, may also come across a problem known as 'flash', and certainly justify their cost. particularly with older kits. This is where a thin web or Cocktail sticks, or toothpicks. These have an film of plastic appears where it shouldn't, and needs to amazing number of uses, such as fine painting tools, be gently trimmed back to the line of the original part. putting wheels on for ease of painting, and getting It is usually self-evident which bits are flash and which enamel paint out from under your fingernails before you need to keep, but proceed with caution, being sure you eat dinner. to check how the part appears in the instruction leaflet. A small pair of sharp-point tweezers for Anything on the part which is not on the drawing in the picking up small parts, and a pair of scissors for cutting instructions is flash, so you can remove it safely. out parts and transfers. When you remove parts from sprues make sure you put them aside carefully. It's a wise idea to put very small pieces on a plate or other container so you if you like. Using a large brush, paint the large areas as know where they are. If your model kit has clear shown within the instructions, or reference material. plastic parts (such as cockpit canopies or 'windshields') Wait for the larger areas to dry, then move onto the keep these 'glass' parts in their bags in the box until next areas, and so on. Remember to mix the paints needed, lest they get covered in paint or glue and are well, and paint with as few brush strokes as possible. ruined. Some model makers use the upturned box lid, Clean out your brush after each colour used and but some prefer not to do this as you can't use the box remember to replace the lid. Then move on to the lid art for a reference tool to aid construction or smaller areas, using the fine detail brush for those. painting. When putting your kit together, take your When the painting is completed and dry, you can start time and keep the parts neat and tidy. And don't throw applying any transfers. anything away until you've finished - you never know Transfers if that tiny little piece of plastic you thought was Before applying transfers (or decals) to your rubbish is in fact integral to the final construction. now painted, and hopefully dry, model, first make sure Most importantly, don't try and do it all in one sitting. that the area is clean of dirt and grease. Then find your Pace yourself. transfer/decal sheet. Each transfer is numbered. If you Keeping It Together look back through the instructions, there will be When building your kit, keep referring to the numbers corresponding to the transfers. The transfer instructions. If a piece is to be glued, it is normally numbers will be in another type of symbol or shape - it indicated by having a symbol next to it of a tube of will tell you at the front of the instructions. To apply a glue, or a simple white circle. Use glue sparingly, and transfer, cut it out carefully with scissors, making sure if you can, apply it with a cocktail stick or needle you don't cut through any other transfer. Place the applicator. Polystyrene cement can come rushing out of transfer in a bowl of warm water for about thirty the tube, so it's an idea to squeeze some out onto seconds, using tweezers. Slide the transfer onto a knife, another surface, such as an old jam jar lid, and then then onto the model, using a cocktail stick (not the one apply it to your model using your chosen applicator. used for glue) to position it in just the right place. Then Too much glue can, unfortunately, lead to things get a clean brush, dip it in water, wipe off any excess coming 'unstuck'. Fingers, paper, hair and anything else and brush it over the transfer, taking care not to pick up you don't want attached to your model can, suddenly, the transfer with the brush. Do this for all the transfers find itself all over your pride and joy if you don't take and leave to dry. care with the adhesive. Remember, plastic models are More advanced modellers tend to supplement often quite delicate too, so never force anything to fit - transfer sheets with other tricks of the trade. Dry-rub just be careful and take your time. 'Letraset' transfers, for instance, are useful for serial Don't be discouraged by mistakes - even experts with numbers and brief texts, such as vehicle or aircraft years of experience make amazingly stupid errors of all 'names'. And if your modelling favours a nation whose sorts. modeller had stuck the jet nozzles of an Me2625 national insignia is angular and straight-edged - kit on back to front, and didn't realise until completion. German crosses, for instance, or the Finnish hakaristi - Needless to say there were some choice words used on why not try painting it on? With a steady hand, or discovering this little inaccuracy. failing that, masking tape, nothing is impossible. Painting & Decorating Really advanced modellers aren't daunted by roundels Usually in the back of the instruction leaflet, (RAF insignia) or the Yin/Yang symbol6, which is there is the painting advice. If there is nothing to be possibly the most difficult of the lot. found to show what colours to paint your model in, use Once all the transfers are applied you have the either the box art or some other relevant reference option of applying a coat of dull or gloss varnish to material to help you achieve accuracy (if accuracy is ensure the paint and transfers on your model don't what you are after). If there is a painting guide within come off with handling. If you choose to apply this the instructions, in most cases each shade on the then leave your model to dry at least 24 hours before picture will represent a colour, which is on a key or handling again. Once this is done you are finished. 'legend'. The colours are sometimes signified by a letter Your masterpiece is complete and you can show it off, or number, which then corresponds to a colour chart either in your bedroom or somewhere pride of place for included, in most cases, at the front of the instruction all to see! leaflet. Modelling Out of Hours The instructions will probably tell you the rest If you like modelling, you may want to join a but, as mentioned, don't forget that there are countless local club. There you'll likely find lots of other sources of references to be found if you want to try modellers7 and have a chance to show off your finished something a little different, or to ensure you are doing work, which is a much more enjoyable way to go about your model justice. If you build up your own reference your hobby than modelling in the wilderness. Never be library concerning your chosen topic over time, you ashamed of your skill level; no one will ever tell you will likely become quite the expert in the field. A it's really bad. In fact, a lot of people will be impressed modeller is often a font of knowledge on the models by your finished models, and you might even get a they make, and as such can make up an integral part of ribbon or little cup, plus some prize money to go out a pub quiz team (as long as they're old enough to enjoy and buy more models. a pint). Don't get discouraged if you see that other It is recommended that you paint the parts as people's work is better than yours, because each thing you assemble the model, and use a little artistic license you build is a work of art, and getting really good takes time. Keep at it and before you know it you'll be an is still widely employed. The gun is also mounted in expert - and you could even find work from your the 2S1 Amphibious SPG. hobby. The film industry in particular is always on the I was surprised when I spotted this kit in look out for modellers to help with special effects- Salisbury Model centre as I didn‟t know a kit existed of related designs and so forth. this weapon. At a penny under £10.00 it seemed As you get to be a more confident model remarkably cheap too, though admittedly the box was maker, why not increase your skill and try using only just slightly bigger than a “Dragon” box of 5 specialised equipment such as airbrushes, and also figures. I bought it with out hesitation. When home I making your own models from scratch. This is a great began to wonder if I‟d bought a „pig in a poke‟ as I had way to spend time, unwind and relax, but above all, no idea what was inside. As the single bag dropped out have some fun. As one modeller recalls: onto the table I initially felt cheated, less plastic than My first one was a Hawker Hunter - a black kit - which some figure sets! However closer inspection revealed a was a birthday present from my big brother. I also little gem. 2 sprues (one large , one small) of pea green remember building the classic Airfix Lancaster, and a plastic contain parts that are modestly detailed. Sight Catalina Flying Boat. systems and controls are made intricate not by the Happy Days! moulds but by the number of simple pieces used to make up the assemblies. The muzzle break has as an 1 Hornby, who later bought the Airfix name, revitalised example 6 parts (2 of which are etched pieces). The the brand in 2007/08. result should look authentic in 1/35 scale. As 2 1 through 4 for Airfix, and colour coded too. mentioned, there is a small etched fret comprising of 3 Take a very close look at the film Saving Private 18 parts as well as two finely detailed vinyl tyres. The Ryan or the TV series Band of Brothers, preferably in small size of the bagged parts is at odds to the large the company of somebody who is knowledgeable about instruction sheet, but it needs to be as this kit has so German tanks. That convincing-looking 'Tiger' is many functioning parts. With careful assembly the trail actually a Russian-built T-34 with a makeover, while legs can be rotated from towed to fixed position, the that StuG III Assault Gun started life as a British Army wheels rotate as well as raise by use of shaped pins to troop carrier. And that Hanomag 251 troop carrier? Oh shift from raised to lowered. The breach opens, barrel yes, that's just a wood and fibreglass shell on a Land elevates, muzzle loop is reversible, ground spikes Rover chassis. But convincing, aren't they? removable and centre pivot plate deployable. All these 4 Humbrol being the brand of choice. options however on such a small model are perhaps 5 German jet aircraft of the Second World War. overkill, I will probably decide on one mode of display 6 Used by the Korean Air Force. and keep it at that; impressive none the less. 7 Some sociologists use the classification 'dorks'. Painting instructions are called out through the build as well as a two view guide with extra In box review- D30 Soviet Artillery piece. exploded diagrams, and a colour guide on the box rear. Overall I‟m very impressed and look forward to Like a few other members of the club I recall starting this with a fresh scalpel and some liquid how frustrating it used to be searching for models of cement, some time in the future, I‟ll report back on weapons from the Soviet Union. Anything from behind how it progresses. the iron curtain fielded from the 50‟s to the late 80‟s was hidden from view by their owners so injection kits Sibo were rarer than hen‟s teeth. Those available were of questionable accuracy or extortionate in price, made Italeri Tornado IDS 1/48th Scale from resin and still of questionable accuracy! One of the benefits of Glasnost and Perestroika to us sprue gluers was the influx of information on all types of Soviet equipment and also the increase in availability of kits, many originating from the former Soviet Union itself. This in box kit review is from such a company. “CKiO” is as close to the Cyrillic brand name as my computer will allow; a Ukrainian company imported by Pocketbond ltd. The D30 is widely seen in conflicts around the world particularly Afghanistan both now and during the Russian invasion. This artillery piece was originally fielded in the 60‟s and is instantly recognisable when The inspiration for this build came from in the firing position as it has 3 trails that the gun seeing some superb builds on the various modelling cradle sits central on with the wheels raised either side web forums lately, especially on Britmodeller. So of the small shield. When towed all three trails face armed with a large dose of inspiration I began looking forward with the gun towed by a loop under the barrel. for a suitable kit to quench my creative juices. Not It can fire 122mm shells to a range of 15.3km at a knowing much about aircraft kits and knowing even maximum rate of 8 rounds per minute, and while by less about available Tornado models I studied the current standards it is deemed outdated, its small size, various builds I had seen and came to the conclusion rugged construction and quick into action time mean it that the Italeri kit was probably the kit to go with. The Airfix offering seems to have too many problems to coat of Tamiya light grey primer. Some re sanding was even bother with. The only plus for the Airfix kit necessary to fill missed seams etc. the model was then would be the inclusion of a better weapons fit. pre shaded with Tamiya brown and the gulf pink paint was gradually built up over this. Once I had the effect I Next up was a trawl around the web again for was looking for I then added some white to the paint reviews of the various Italeri offerings. I chose the IDS and sprayed various panels to add contrast. I also version purely because it had markings for two Gulf sprayed heavily thinned Tamiya smoke along panel War aircraft and I was particularly keen to model one lines and on the fuselage to suggest streaks and general of these. Yes I know it‟s about 17 years too late but grime build up. The wheel wells where masked off and hey it‟s only recently that I‟ve got back into the aircraft sprayed white then weathered with the smoke colour. side of modelling. A kit was duly ordered along with Tornados during the Gulf War displayed a some nice Paragon extras and a pot of Xtracrylics Gulf variety of finishes from almost pristine to totally worn War pink paint. out paint finishes. The paint was a temporary type I ordered my items from Relish models on the which wore away quite easily especially in the harsh net and it arrived two days after ordering. During this desert environment. I opted naturally for very heavily time I amassed lots of pictures and information for the weathered! Using green and grey I added chips and build. scratches to the model following where the original Once the kit had arrived I began construction camo would have been. I also added light scratches etc starting with the cockpit and seats. The kit cockpit is with some of the pink mixed with white. After a coat of quite good but the kit seats are rather poor, Paragon Klear, I began decaling the model. I chose “Gulf came to the rescue with two superb resin replacements. Killer” which had a rather nice shark mouth on the The casting and detail is superb and after a lick of paint front of the aircraft. The decals went down very well they look even better. On this kit the front fuselage is but I had some trouble with the shark‟s mouth trying to separate from the main body of the plane. The cockpit line everything up. was painted in a neutral grey colour and weathered with oils with details painted in Vallejo colour. The front wheel bay was detailed with some plastic rod and wire and the cockpit minus seats and wheel well where installed and closed up. After filling and re scribing a few panel lines I began work on the main fuselage. The wings on this model are supposed to be workable enabling the modeller to swing the wings back if required, I decided to glue the wings in position as the wings seemed very loose if assembled as per the instructions. There is quite a bad join line at the rear of the assembly, which required some vicious sanding to get a smooth surface. Some re scribing was necessary to restore lost panel lines. The next item was the rear jet exhausts, again these are poor in the kit so Paragon replacements where used. A simple operation, which enhanced the appearance no end. A further Paragon Another coat of Klear sealed the decals and I replacement was used on the tail to replace the front began weathering with a mixture of oils and portion of the lower fin. Again, a simple task. I left off Promodelers wash to enhance the panel lines. More the rear tail fins until final assembly, as it would be smoke was sprayed on to impart gun staining and easier to paint the model with these left off. I then exhaust stains seen on the tail section of Tornados. All added the wing root covers seen at the rear of Tornados the weapons and other parts got the same treatment. where the wing goes into the body of the a/c. I used The exhaust assembly was sprayed using Alcalad some silver tape and rolled a zimmeritt tool over this colours. I then decided to deviate from my usual embossing a ridged pattern. This was then fixed to the practice of a coating of Hannant‟s matt varnish and use model. a new method I had read about. This involves using All the small bits where now dealt with, the Johnson‟s Klear and Tamiya matt medium. By mixing undercarriage received lead wire cables and Paragon the two in a 80/20 ratio you get a matt varnish. Also by bulged resin wheels. The nose cone, which is separate, varying the mix you can get any finish you want. I first needed some filling and re sanding at the tip and all the tested this mix on some scrap painted items and weapons where assembled and cleaned up. I also checked the results. it sprays beautifully with no nozzle managed to get a pair of large “Hindenburger” fuel clogging and gives a great smooth surface once dry. tanks and modified the fins to the correct profile. Next I built up the finish using thin coats and was came the canopy, which had some nasty marks on it. rewarded with a far better finish than before. A good After some polishing and sanding I fitted the seats and experiment and far cheaper than using my normal glued the canopy in position. The air intakes assembled varnish. The undercarriage was now added and given a with no problems however the main body needed some couple of days to set. Even so the rear legs are quite shims and bits of plastic glued inside it the enable the flimsy so care needs to be taken. 8 oz of weight was intakes to conform to the shape of the fuselage. Once added to the nose cone and attached to the model and all this was finished I cleaned the model and gave it a weapons added. Lastly metallic areas where painted and the navigation lights painted using Tamiya clear Well, it was a treat. Why is this important? Read on & colours. The exhausts and tail fin received some Mig decide for yourself. powders black for the soot stains. All in this took me Lavishly illustrated throughout, in colour & about three weeks to make and very enjoyable it was monochrome, this book sets out to do just as the cover too, especially as I was able to use some of my armour says & does it reasonably well. Within its pages, you techniques during the build! The kit was quite cheap will find lots of reference, ideas & enthusiasm for these and the resin items although not strictly necessary do German vehicles. However; enhance the model and are easy to use. The author seems to have a thing about Dragon kits! He does build a Tamiya Jagpanther, just Pete Smith to even the balance though! He also seems to need to use just about every expensive add on & replacement Arri / Otaki / Airfix/Matchbox: part going, making some of these projects very Not a kit review, just a reminder of some expensive! On the plus side though, he does turn out wonderful cheap 1/48th models out there, often some wonderful models. But I do wish he would check overlooked! his facts! For instance, many of the Hetzers illustrated, With the price these days of a WWII 1/48 th plus the one of those he models, are ex Czech aircraft kit approaching £20.00+, these often mocked machines & one of his features the right camouflage models offer a cheap alternative. If I remember pattern but totally wrong colours! There are also some correctly, the series comprised; Corsair, Hellcat, large gaps in his list of where to see the real things, Bf109G, P51D, P47D, FW190A-8 & Spitfire IX. Then, particularly where Bovington is concerned! for the Japanese lover; Ki44, Ki61, Ki84 & Ki100 There are some very good accuracy points, Of these, the FW190 has a few undercarriage together with corrections, raised in the text. But, yes, I & cockpit problems – easily remedied. (It was based on know the Dragon Jagdtiger barrel is too short, but on the one in the Musee de l‟Air, which is suspended & as one model he builds, it is 4mm to short & on the other a result, the undercarriage is too long!) Of the rest, the 2mm too short according to him! If you are going to Corsair & Hellcat are easily the best, although the rest rivet count, at least be consistent! When I build my are not far behind. Worst of all is the nearest to home! two, anyone approaching with a fine scale rule will The Ki61 features a 1/48th fuselage & a 1/50th wing, find modelling very difficult with fingers in splints! with appallingly shallow undercarriage bays! Strangely Summing up, a very nice book, but not really enough, its radial engine cousin, the Ki100, is as good essential. I find it much like Tony Greenland‟s Osprey as the Hasegawa one! Master Class book. A lovely book, & a lovely treat, but What you get is a basically sound kit, which not one I would put top of my must have on the shelf fits together very well. These really are weekend list. models, they are so good. So, if you fancy one of the Vol. 2 will cover open top vehicles. I know a above & are a bit strapped for cash, don‟t ignore them. fellow club member is after this one & I will be They often appear second hand for under a fiver & interested to read his comments – Hint, hint! They offer a very cheap but sound introduction into the were also originally available in softback, so it might 1/48th scale world. well be worth seeking out one of these if they are cheaper. Modelling Wise Moments: Don‟t forget to pass on your lessons learned Peter. Hon. Sec. for the benefit of all. This month – washing your models. Now, we all wash our sprue frames before commencing assembly, so as to remove any mould release oil don‟t we? Well, if building a Trumpeter kit, do it again! I do not know what they use, but boy, is it tough stuff! I rinsed a KV-2 in the good old Fairy Liquid, or at least the environmentally green version, which we use, but when I came to paint it with Xtracolour, there was a perfect demonstration of how oil & enamels do not mix! I had to wash the kit again in order to get the paint to adhere. Library Corner: The Modeller’s Guide to the Jagdpanzer. Part 1. Closed top vehicles. Jim Hensley. RZM Publishing. £23.95 I was on a bit of a roll when I saw this at SMW 2008. I had good sales in the kit swap, had completed my wish list & was looking to treat myself, so when Yvonne spotted this, I decided to go for it. Club Events: Finally, 17/2/09 Weathering. 17/3/09 “What‟s on the workbench?” READ THE 5/5/09 In House model show & guest night. CALENDAR! 19/5/09 Model Show dress rehearsal & briefing. 2/6/09 Model Show debrief 16/6/09 Desert island Modelling 21/7/09 Bases & Groundwork. 15/9/09 Chairman‟s Quiz. 20/10/09 Slide Show. Dave Berryman 3/11/09 AGM 17/11/09 Individual displays – models & references. 15/12/09 Mince Pies Night. Model Shows: Sat. 14/2/09 Yeovilton Sat 7/3/09 IPMS North Somerset Sat. 4/4/09 IPMS Abingdon Sat. 18/4/09 Poole Vikings 7-8/11/09 Scale Model World. Other events: 27-28/6/09 Tankfest Bovington I have also been asked to publicise events at Rougham Airfield, West Suffolk. So, here they are; 2-3/5/09 Large Model Air Show. 16-17/5/09 International Kite Festival 27-28/6/09 Wings, Wheels & Stream Country Fair. 15-16/8/09 Classic cars & Airshow. 3-4/10/09 Fashionable Forties. Air show & Agricultural show plus costume day.