THE 17 09 2007 THE LAUNCH

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		 : 09	
 17	                      : 2007


THE :       :                                            CREDITS :                                  02 : 03   THE :   :                            EDITOR’S LETTER :              02 : 03

Creative Director : Chris Sanderson                                                                           Welcome to the inaugural issue of The, showcasing the best design and
Futures Director : Martin Raymond
Trends Director : Tom Savigar                                                                                 trend ideas from around the world. This issue sees a new departure
Editor : Gwyneth Holland                                                                                      for us at The Future Laboratory, as well as marking an important shift
Design : Kate Franklin
Sub-editor : Hester Lacey
                                                                                                              in emerging trends.
Words : Neil Bennett, George Collings, Priyanka Kanse, Sarah Rabia, Miriam Rayman

                                                                                                              Editor’s Letter
Pictures : Emma Baines, Liv Falconer, Jasmine Labeau, David Lee, Caroline Till
Illustration : Mick Clarke
LifeSigns Network Manager : Martin Farrington
Sponsorship & Marketing : Rowena Allsopp, Jeff Gonek
Finance : Sian Welsh
Design : MadeThought                                                                                          As we put this issue together we noticed a move away from the organic,
Print : E. Holterdorf, Oelde, Germany
Paper Stocks : Printed on Munken                                                                              natural, right-on mood that has dominated design and consumer culture
                                                                                                              for the last few years. Instead, we are seeing the emergence of a newly
The : Magazine
The Future Laboratory : Studio 2, 181 Cannon Street Road
                                                                                                              technical, synthetic, even futuristic movement, from the innovative
London E1 2LX, United Kingdom                                                                                 Light Futures to awe-inspiring desert developments with the scale and                                                                           ambition of a Bond villain’s lair.
The Future Laboratory is one of Europe’s leading trend, brand and futures consultancies.
With its 3,000-strong global LifeSigns Network, it connects over 250 clients with all aspects of culture      Every issue will report on nascent trends developing around the world,
set to impact on consumer change. The Future Laboratory publishes quarterly insight reports on
retail, technology, design, luxury, interiors and leisure. Its biannual Trend Briefings take place in
                                                                                                              focusing this time on Beirut, Buenos Aires and Shanghai as the most
March and September. Details and tickets from                                 innovative cities. We also plot the rise of Antediluvianism, Pet Networking,
                                                                                                              Muffragettes and Rolodex Teens, and the magical new materials that are                                                                                          pushing fashion forward in Super Synthetics.

                                                                                                              We look forward to hearing what you think. Feel free to e-mail us at
                                                                                                    , or join our LifeSigns network
                                                                                                              ( for regular trend updates.

                                                                                                              Gwyneth Holland
THE :       :                                       THE MISCELLANY :                              04 : 05                  THE :       :                                        THE MISCELLANY :                               04 : 05

The Miscellany                                                China’s Mistress Economy
                                                              A growing number of women in today’s China are opting
                                                                                                                                                                                          Five-star Cells
                                                                                                                                                                                          Opulence behind bars is no longer the reserve of mafia
                                                              for life as a second wife, or ‘ernai’. Becoming an ernai                                                                    bosses such as film’s Paul Cicero, portrayed in Goodfellas.
The stuff that matters :                                      is appealing option for attractive 20somethings hoping                                                                      Self-pay upgrades now mean offenders can do hard time
                                                              to get rich before they hit 30 in a country where                                                                           in style and prisons can turn a profit.
Antediluvianism, Biosafe Habitats,                            concubinage was an accepted way of life not so long ago.
Muffragettes, Puppy Love                                      Consumer insight specialists such as Radha Chadha,                                                                          Californian jails are increasingly offering pay-to-stay
and China’s Mistress Economy                                  co-author of The Cult of the Luxury Brand, have identified                                                                  upgrades, costing from $75 (£38) a day for premium cells.
                                                              this group as a key force behind the growth of China’s                                                                      These are more private, allow access to personal
                                                              luxury market, now third in the world.                                                                                      possessions, and are at a greater distance from violent
Antediluvianism                                                                                                                                                                           offenders. They are reserved for convicts whose crimes
                                                            In imperial China concubines were a symbol of wealth.                                                                         are relatively minor.
We have noticed increasing numbers of young people in       The more money a family had, the more wives the man
trend-leading cities such as London, Tokyo, New York and    could afford. Today’s swelling urban incomes (up 10.4% per                                                                    Self-pay jails have been accused of operating like private
Berlin embracing Antediluvianism, the idea of antiquated    capita) have made the luxury of the ernai once again                                                                          members’ clubs: you have to be in the know even to apply
ideals and pastimes. The idea is rooted in Victorian ideas  attainable. Among members of China’s government alone,                                                                        for entry. Demand is now so high that marketing is no
of modesty and morality, echoing the wider movement
towards teenage conservatism.
                                                            figures are alarmingly high. Reports reveal that 95% of
                                                            officials arrested on charges of corruption were also found
                                                                                                                           Biotherapy                                                     longer necessary, though an early campaign used the pitch
                                                                                                                                                                                          ‘Bad things happen to good people’.
                                                            to keep mistresses, with one in particular, 60-year-old        Beauty obsessives are embracing ancient methods of
Paul Schlicke, author of Dickens and Popular Entertainment, Zha Jingui, bragging about having 13.                          healing to solve modern-day problems. A new luxury spa       Lowdham Grange Category B prison in Nottinghamshire
says Ante-diluvianism makes sense to today’s society.                                                                      resort in Ireland is spearheading the use of skin-nibbling   has been nicknamed the ‘hotel’ of prisons because of its
‘Many Victorian ideas strike home today, such as the focus Usually, however, ernai are kept secret. Boyfriends visit a     fish to exfoliate rough skin, a treatment that originates    ‘soft touch’. Inmates are given cell phones to stop them
on individual values. People feel there are a great many    few times a week or when they are in town and always           from the Ottoman Empire.                                     feeling lonely and, hopefully, reduce reoffending. It costs
social and intellectual problems that are there for the     bring lavish gifts. They cover the rent and provide monthly                                                                 £27,500 a year to keep a prisoner in jail and that figure is
solving,’ he claims.                                        cash instalments so these kept women have plenty               The Garra rufa fish, also known as the doctor fish, is being rising, so there is increasing pressure to reduce the bill to
                                                            of free time to sleep, shop, play and indulge their very       used to treat psoriasis and eczema as well as providing the the taxpayer.
Englishness is at the heart of many new youth subcultures. expensive tastes.                                               ultimate exfoliating experience. Since its appearance in a
such as our Punk Dandies and tea-drinking Mad Hatters,                                                                     recent Ugly Betty episode, the craze has spread to Japan,    by Sarah Rabia
who have emerged as subsets of the Rolodex Teens tribes     by Miriam Rayman                                               China, Ireland and Turkey, where the fish originates.
(see page 30). In an increasingly homogenised society,
these teens see their Englishness as part of reclaiming a                                                                  Therese Dillon, founder of Limerick’s recently opened Skin
distinctive, individual identity.                                                                                          Therapy clinic, has had so much demand for the services
                                                                                                                           of the fish, she already needs to expand. ‘It’s been a great
Dickensian London is the spiritual home of the new                                                                         success, I’ve already taken on a larger clinic which we
Antediluvians, with Dickens World, a theme park in Kent,                                                                   hope to open in a couple of months. Biotherapy is coming
bringing the trend to a wider audience. Amazon has                                                                         back to medicine, and we’re living proof of it.’
reported that sales of Dickens’ books shot up by 160% last
year and a slew of prime time tv series such as Channel 4’s                                                                So how long will it be before leeches can be bought in
How We Used to Live and the BBC’s Bleak House have                                                                         pharmacies and maggots become the default cure for skin
further popularised the appeal of bygone times.                                                                            lesions and MRSA? Professor Robert Root-Bernstein,
                                                                                                                           author of Honey, Mud, Maggots, and Other Medical Marvels,
Another antediluvian pastime we have spotted is the                                                                        says that such treatments are gathering momentum
return of the ‘penny dreadful’ 19th-century serialised                                                                     but wishes the take-up was faster. ‘The resurgence of live
magazines, which traditionally used to cost a penny.                                                                       therapies is due to their efficiency in treating medical
F&M Publications is relaunching the penny dreadful and                                                                     conditions that standard treatments cannot. It’s too bad
hoping to replicate past success. This time around,                                                                        that we often wait until patients are deemed incurable
penny dreadfuls will cost £2.50 and, in a nod to the 21st                                                                  before we look to medical history for insight,’ says
century, will be carbon neutral.                                                                                           Prof Root-Bernstein.
by Sarah Rabia                                                                                                             by Miriam Rayman
THE :       :                                           THE MISCELLANY :                              06 : 07                  THE :   :                            THE CITY REPORTS :   06 : 07

                                                                                                                               Buenos Aires
Puppy Love                                                      The Biosafe Habitat
Pets tell us plenty about their owners, some allegedly even     As the threat of terrorism continues to dominate the
look like them, so meetings are being set up with pets          political landscape, the designer Marei Wollersberger
to sound out their owners’ potential as suitable tenants        explores new ways in which it might be possible to

or even partners.                                               safeguard the home.

In New York, the already fearsome co-op boards of               Using animals as biosensors, Wollersberger has developed
desirable apartment blocks now interview prospective            the Biosafe Habitat, a 21st-century revival of the principle
tenants’ dogs. Dog-vetting sessions can last up to an hour      behind the miners’ canary. For example, to monitor home
and include doorbell and phone response tests, a weigh-in       water supply, an integrated aquarium is stocked with
and ball-fetching tests. Pet-lovers too are seeking out         genetically modified zebra fish, called GloFish. These

blocks with dog-friendly boards. One US estate agent told       begin to fluoresce if pollutants are present, warning that
the story of a Fifth Avenue penthouse which sold for $2m        the water has become contaminated.
below the asking price because they couldn’t find a
potential purchaser without a dog.                              Cockroaches, with their hairy feet, are adept at collecting
                                                                any traces of airborne chemical or biological agents.
DateMyPet is a dating site where you can check out              Wollersberger’s scheme uses the Madagascar hissing
someone’s pet as well as your own potential mate. And if        cockroach, one of the larger and hairier cockroach species.
you like the look of the pet more than the owner, then a        The roaches are kept in a specially designed nesting box
‘pet date’ can be set up for your pooches or kittens.           and can be released to wander around the house, then
                                                                checked for any signs of contamination. Wollersberger          The City Reports : Cities from outside the box
by Priyanka Kanse                                               tested the project in her own home and friends’ houses.
                                                                Although initially hesitant to cohabit with cockroaches,
                                                                                                                               Our quarterly look at the cultural and
                                                                all her testers found that ultimately they ‘developed a        visual life of key global cities
                                                                relationship’ with the creatures, even giving them names.
Muffragettes                                                    by George Collings
Feminism is being rebranded for the MySpace generation.
Traditional women’s groups such as the Women’s Institute
in the UK are enjoying a resurgence and have been
modernised with MySpace pages and celebrity followings.
Dr Katherine Rake, director of The Fawcett Society, says:
‘We want to remove the stigma and make feminism cool.’

In the US, Feministing, a website aimed at the
contemporary young feminist has quickly become a cult
hit since its recent launch. Its editor, Jessica Valenti, has
just published Full Frontal Feminism: A Young Woman’s
Guide to Why Feminism Matters.

The new wave of feminists are keen to distance themselves
from the bra-burning, anti-porn old guard. Some are even
calling themselves ‘muffragettes’ and ‘reclaiming’
pornography. A survey by internet analyst Nielsen
NetRatings shows British women are the fastest-growing
users of internet porn.

The neofeminist movement has been described as the new
‘feminocracy’. In China, a ‘women’s town’ is being built
in the city of Chongqing and its municipal motto of ‘women
are never wrong’ is being enforced by specialist courts.
Town planners believe the concept of a modern-day
matriarchy will boost tourism.

Lucy Hutchings, publisher of MarmaLADYa, an ezine
that celebrates the ‘old-fashioned spirit of fruitful female
interaction’, says: ‘Neofeminism is about embracing one’s
femininity, as opposed to actively taking on masculine
traits in order to become successful.’

by Sarah Rabia
THE :       :                                 THE CITY REPORTS : BUENOS AIRES                      08 : 09                                       THE :     :                               THE CITY REPORTS : BUENOS AIRES                           08 : 09

Buenos Aires has gone mash-up. The porteños are                Recover from the 24-hour nightlife scene by visiting 12-na,                                                                                                   1 :         CITY BOx
adapting their traditions with some American sauce and         a mash-up clothing brand which mixes flea-market finds                                                                                                        2 :         ELOISA CARTONERA BOOkLET
European pepper. Street art is huge in the city, influencing   with modern materials.                                                                                                                                                    MADE BY CARDBOARD COLLECTORS
the aesthetics of books, magazines, trainers, clothes, art                                                                                                                                                                   3   :       CLUB UNIONE E BENEVOLENZA POSTCARD
museums, restaurants, bars and clubs.                          The quintessential store for the mash-up movement is                                                                                                          4   :       PROSTITUTE’S CARD
                                                               Miles, which stocks the city’s most innovative books                                                                                                          5   :       SELECTION OF STICkERS
One of the key venues for this new movement is Hollywood       as well as music and magazines. For example, Eloísa                                                                                                           6   :       T-SHIRT
in Cambodia, a street art gallery which shows work from        Cartonera is a non-profit community project which                                                                                                             7   :       VILLA DIAMANTE CLUB NIGHT DVD
artists such as Pum Pum, Dani Dan, Zleep, Doma, Suba,          combines covers painted by the kids who collect the city’s                                                                                                    8   :       COw PRINT GIFT TAPE
Atypica, Fase, Acampante and Diéguez. The gallery has          cardboard with the work of emerging writers and poets                                                                                                         9   :       MUSEUM OF LATIN AMERICAN ART
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         (MALBA) LEAFLET
a strong alternative feel, as do other experimental gallery    such as Washington Cucurto, César Aira, Javier Barilaro
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             10      :   MUSIC AND THEATRE POSTCARD
spaces such as Appetite and Belleza Y Felicidad.               and Ricardo Piglia.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             11      :   MALBA GIFT BAG
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             12      :   LA NUEVA OLA CD AND COVER
Traditional Latin American influences are revitalising the by Hernando Gomez Salinas
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             13      :   CATALOGUE FASHION BOOk
commercial electronic music wasteland. Zizek parties, held
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             14      :   CITY GUIDE
every Wednesday in Palermo, the coolest neighborhood
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             15      :   BARCELONA NEwSPAPER
of the city, have become the heart of the scene. Villa

                                                                                                                                                 Buenos Aires
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             16      :   90+10 MAGAZINE
Diamante, one of the city’s most in-demand djs, recently
launched his new work ‘Bailando se entiende la gente’
(‘People understand each other through dancing’) at Zizek.
The album mixes electronic music with cumbia, South
American peasant music.

                                                                                                       1 :

                                                                                                                                                                                                                             17      :   FABRICA DE BANANAS SHOP FLYER
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             18      :   PECHA kUCHA FLYER
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             19      :   CAROLINA AUBELE FASHION SHOP FLYER
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             20      :   EL DIAMANTE BAR POSTCARD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             21      :   CLUB 69 LEAFLET
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                                                                                                                             6 :                                                                                             NICETOCLUB.COM
                                                                                                                                                                                                   15 :
                                                                                                                                                               12 :                                                          MIACAMPANTE.COM
                                                                                                                                                                                                              16 :           DIAMANTESTYLE.COM.AR
                                                                                            7 :                                     9 :                               17 :                                                   APPETITE.COM.AR
                                                    2 :                                                                                                                                                                      PLANV.COM
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THE :              :                                   THE CITY REPORTS : BEIRUT               10 : 11                      THE :          :                                THE CITY REPORTS : BEIRUT                          10 : 11

1   :       CITY BOx                                                                                                        Beirutis like to think they can’t be deterred from the        The safety of exclusivity also works for the city’s
2   :       AGENDA CULTURAL FESTIVAL PROGRAMME                                                                              good life. But between last year’s Israeli bombardment and    designer beach resorts. La Plage, close to the site of the
3   :       DOCUMENTARY FESTIVAL PROGRAMME                                                                                  this year’s internal fighting, something has definitely       assassination of former prime minister Hariri, has come
4   :       ASHTRAY                                                                                                         changed in downtown Beirut. The noisy nightlife of            back with a vengeance. This refurbished port is like a
5   :       SELECTION OF jEwELLERY                                                                                          Gemayzeh and Monot has been reduced to a murmur for           bling rap video, with mirrors everywhere so the girls in
6   :       GANGAUR FRUIT CHEwING GUM                                                                                       fear of another car bomb; rooftop bars with strong security   the bikinis and Blahniks can watch themselves tanning.
7   :       kITSCH GIFT BAG                                                                                                 are now all the rage.
8   :       INLEB BOOB TUBE                                                                                                                                                               While street life is quieter, big parties with big names
9   :       ACTION RENOVATION                                                                                               Sky Bar and White in downtown Beirut are just about the       continue to draw the gig-hungry masses; Tiesto recently
            PROMOTIONAL PAMPHLET                                                                                            only places working. But they’re working hard: fancy cars     packed 10,000 onto an exclusive beach, while Liban
10      :   I LOVE BEIRUT CUP                                                                                               queue round the block for valet parking, while funky house    Jazz’s regular gigs are going down a storm. The capital’s
11      :   THE BEST OF FAIRUZ CD                                                                                           djs play to the beautiful people drinking Salmanazars         legendary fashionistas have swapped the big downtown
12      :   CREAM FASHION BUSINESS CARD                                                                                     of bubbly. Moet has even created a special bottle for the     department stores (likely bomb targets) for exclusive
13      :   POSTCARD OF THE                                                                                                 Lebanese market that holds 9.5 litres.                        designer boutiques. The likes of Kitsch, in the trendy
            GEMAYZEH RESIDENCES                                                                                                                                                           neighbourhood of Gemayzeh, akin to Shoreditch, offer
14 :        BIDOUN ART AND CULTURE MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                               cut-price shopping with coffee and croissants thrown in
15 :        SkIN MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                                                 and the Lebanese mademoiselles love it.

                                                                                                                                                                                          Marketing is picking up on the materialism. A major
                                                                                                                                                                                          bank is currently offering plastic surgery loans to
                                                                                                                                                                                          anyone who can’t afford to pay straight off. Nose surgery
                                                                                                   1 :                                                                                    is so popular among girls turning 18 and 21 that
                                                                                                                                                                                          some are even wearing plasters across their noses as
                                                                                                                                                                                          a fashion statement.

                                                                                                                                                                                          by Nadim Dimechkie
                                                                                                                                                7 :
TIESTO.COM                                                                                                                                            10 :
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YALIBNAN.COM                                                                                                                                                                                15 :
BEIRUTSPRING.COM                                                                                                      8 :
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THE :           :                              THE CITY REPORTS : SHANGHAI                       12 : 13                                             THE :             :                             THE CITY REPORTS : SHANGHAI                         12 : 13

                                                                                                                                                     Shanghai is a city with an insatiable appetite for the new.   The arts are starting to make a genuine comeback,
                                                                                                                                                     Lately it has been gobbling up just about anything foreign    as part of a trend towards personal expression. Trendy
                                                                                                                                                     that comes its way, from Korean pomelo tea and tv series      kids zoom through the city on sidecar motorcycles or fold-
                                                                                                                                                     (Jewel in the Palace) to Japanese fashions (Bathing Ape)      up bikes, heading to cultural bazaars such as Neo Spring
                                                                                                                                                     to western musicals (Mamma Mia and the Little Prince).        (hosted by indy culture website Neo Cha) where they
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   purchase temporary tattoos, mobile phone stickers or rent
                                                                                                                                                     Western restaurants such as Element Fresh, a California-      their own art space at the Create Box Shanghai.
                                                                                                                                                     style healthy eatery, have developed a strong local
                                                                                                                                                     following, along with bakeries such as the Singaporean        Bohemians aside, Shanghai still maintains a tradition
                                                                                                                                                     Bread Talk and the more authentic French patisserie           of catty femininity and snobby exclusivity. Shanghainese
                                                                                                                                                     Paul. This hunger for the foreign has helped nourish          women are known for being precious. They like to shop
                                                                                                                                                     Shanghai’s growing wine culture. Shanghainese whizz           at Ferguson Lane or Plaza 66 for designer bags, but they
                                                                                                                                                     around the city in taxis with small tv screens embedded       don’t like to carry them – that’s what the boyfriend is for.
                                                                                                                                                     in the taxi headrests (known as out-of-home advertising)      They like drinking Veuve Clicquot at places with names
                                                                                                                                                     which broadcast wine education programs. Meanwhile            like Attica, Glamour Bar and the members-only club
                                                                                                                                                     wine tastings are held every week, often at stylish wine      Volar, designed by Philippe Starck. Those who don’t have
                                                                                                                                                     bars such as Enoteca and Epicvre.                             a meal ticket in the form of a rich boyfriend get by with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   fake bags, fake fur and rhinestones, but no matter the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   income, Shanghainese women are always feminine and
                                                             1 :                                                                                                                                                   always in charge.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   by Rebecca Catching

1   :   CITY BOx
2   :   ANT FARM TOY

7 :     VANGUARD GALLERY POSTCARD                                                                                                                                                         19 :
8 :     PINEAPPLE TART GIFT BOx                                                                                                                                 14 :
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11 :    SHIRT FLAG SHOP FLYER                                                                                                          15 :
13 :    POSTCARD OF LEI FENG BY YONG xU               2 :                                                                                                    13 :
14 :    ZING MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                                             17 :
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18 :    VOODOO DOLL PHONE ACCESSORY                                                                                                    16 :
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20 :    COIN PURSE
22 :    TRINkET BOx
23 :    GINBIS ANIMAL-SHAPED BUTTER BISCUITS                                                                             11 :                                                                                                24 :
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BREADTALk.COM                                  3 :                             7 :                  12 :                        13 :          17 :                         18 :           22 :
THE :        :                     THE HIDDEN : REM kOOLHAAS        14 : 15           THE :   :     THE HIDDEN : REM kOOLHAAS   14 : 15

Jebel Al-Jais Mountain Resort                                                         Far from being a cultural desert,
by Rem Koolhaas                                                                       the Middle East is fast embracing
THIS PAGE :                                                                           cutting-edge design, art and culture
                                                                                      from the west. Oil money and the

                                                                                      grand ambitions of the sheikhs are


                                                                                      helping designers and architects

                                                                                      such as Jaime Hayon, Zaha Hadid,

                                                                                      Marcel Wanders and Jean Nouvel
                                                                                      to transform the region into a hub
                                                                                      for cutting-edge design and culture.

Far from being a cultural desert, the Middle East is fast embracing cutting-edge
design, art and culture from the west. Oil money and the grand ambitions of
the sheikhs are helping designers and architects such as Jaime Hayon, Zaha Hadid,
Marcel Wanders and Jean Nouvel to transform the region into a hub for cutting-
edge design and culture.

Rem Koolhaas’ Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA) is leading the way,
with five innovative projects in the works, including the new Renaissance hotel and
the Porsche Towers I and II in Dubai (due for completion 2009), plus the Gateway
City in Ras Al Khaimah.

One of OMA’s most innovative and ambitious projects is the Jebel Al-Jais Mountain
Resort, which runs along a 10km stretch of the mountain ridges of Ras Al Khaimah.
The extraordinary design includes a series of villas suspended over a sheer drop,
a ‘dam’ full of hotel rooms and apartments that spans a valley, a ‘vertical city’
which resembles piles of Tetris blocks and a bridge connecting two high points
of the mountain with a green park on its roof. Unsurprisingly, much of the complex
is inaccessible to vehicles, so a cable car and funicular railway transport guests
and residents up the side of the mountain.

by Gwyneth Holland
THE :       :                                           THE INDEx :                                   16 : 17                      THE :           :                                            THE INDEx :                                 16 : 17

                                             The Index                                                                                                                                                   RUSSIA :
                                                                                                                                                                                                         EACH YEAR AROUND 70 NEw
                                     The world on a need-to-know basis                                                                                                                                   VODkAS ARE LAUNCHED INTO SHOPS
                                                                                                                                                                                                         AND BARS GLOBALLY.

                                                                                                                                                                                                         RUSSIAN TOURISTS ARE THE
                                                                                                                                                                                                         SECOND-BIGGEST SPENDERS AFTER
                                                                                               BRITAIN :                                                                                                 AMERICANS, AHEAD OF BRITISH
                                                                                               BORDERS wILL SELL A RANGE OF                                                                              TRAVELLERS, ACCORDING TO A POLL
                                                                                               MORE THAN 100 POLISH TITLES AT                                                                            OF 15,000 EUROPEAN HOTELIERS.
                                                                                               STORES IN LONDON’S OxFORD STREET,
                                                                                               SOUTHAMPTON AND BIRMINGHAM.         THE NETHERLANDS :
                                                                                               Financial Times                     ON A SCALE OF ONE TO 10, wHERE 10
                                                                                                                                   SIGNALS GREATEST LIFE SATISFACTION,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      jAPAN :
                                                                                               IN TESCO STORES ACROSS BRITAIN,     DUTCH wOMEN SCORE 7.5.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      87 NEw MANGA
                                                                                               SHOPPERS CAN CHOOSE FROM 38         International Herald Tribune
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      SERIES wILL
                                                                                               TYPES OF MILk.                                                                                                               SOUTH kOREA :             BE LAUNCHED
                                                                                               Daily Mail                                                                                                                   ON AVERAGE,
                                                                                                                                              GERMANY :                                                                                               IN THE SECOND
                                                                                                                                              19.3% OF PEOPLE LIVING IN                                                     74 COUPLES GET            HALF OF 2007.
                                                                                                                                              GERMANY ARE 65 AND OVER.                                                      DIVORCED EACH DAY         ICv2
                                                                  NEw YORk :                                                                                                                                                IN SEOUL.
                                                                  THERE HAS BEEN 46% LESS                                                                                                                                   Korean Government
                                                                  CRIME IN NYC SINCE 1995.
                                                                                                                                           ITALY :                                                                                              SHANGHAI
                                                                  The Endless City
                                                                                                                                           AGENZIA SPAZIALE        BEIRUT
                                                                                                                                           ITALIANA, THE ITALIAN
                                                                                                                                           SPACE AGENCY, SPENDS
                                                                                                                                           $900M PER YEAR
                                                                                                                                           ON RESEARCH INTO                                                   INDIA :
                                                              VENEZUELA :                                                                  SPACE TRAVEL.                                                      BOLLYwOOD’S GLOBAL AUDIENCE
                                                              IN A HAPPINESS SURVEY OF 50                                                  Wikipedia                                                          IS ESTIMATED AT 3BN, wHILE
                                                                                                                                                                          SAUDI ARABIA :
                                                              COUNTRIES, VENEZUELA CAME TOP,                                                                                                                  HOLLYwOOD’S IS ABOUT 2.6BN.
                                                                                                                                                                          69% OF ALL TExT MESSAGES
                                                              wITH 55% OF VENEZUELAN PEOPLE                                                                                                                   Times
                                                                                                                                                                          SENT BY SAUDI TEENAGERS
                                                              SAYING THEY ARE ‘VERY HAPPY’.                                                                               ARE PORNOGRAPHIC.
                                                              World Values Survey                                                           NIGERIA :                                                         THE INDIAN SPACE RESEARCH
                                                                                                                                                                          The Three Billion project
                                                                                                                                            A SURVEY THAT COVERED 26                                          ORGANISATION EMPLOYS
                                                                                                                                            COUNTRIES PUT NIGERIA AT THE                                      APPROxIMATELY 20,000 PEOPLE
                             COLOMBIA :                                                                                                     TOP OF THE SExUAL SATISFACTION                                    AND HAS AN ANNUAL BUDGET OF
                             THERE ARE 101 LANGUAGES                                                                                        LEAGUE; jAPAN wAS BOTTOM.                                         AROUND $815M.
                             LISTED FOR COLOMBIA IN THE                                                                                     Daily Telegraph                                                   Wikipedia
                             ETHNOLOGUE DATABASE,
                             OF wHICH 80 ARE SPOkEN TODAY
                                                                             BRAZIL :
                             AS LIVING LANGUAGES. THERE
                                                                             32M PEOPLE IN BRAZIL wERE
                             ARE ABOUT 500,000 SPEAkERS
                                                                             USING THE INTERNET IN THE
                             OF INDIGENOUS LANGUAGES
                                                                             FIRST qUARTER OF 2007.
                             IN COLOMBIA TODAY.

                                                                             BY 2020 IT IS ESTIMATED THAT
GLOBAL :                                                                     AT LEAST 50% OF THE SPECIES
EVERY DEGREE THAT THE TEMPERATURE                                            RESIDENT IN BRAZIL wILL
RISES ABOVE 14°C, SALES OF wATER                                             BECOME ExTINCT.
INCREASE BY 5.2%.                                                            Wikipedia
The Soft Drinks Association
                                                                       BUENOS AIRES

Financial Times

THE :   :                       THE TREND : RISE OF THE MACHINES       18 : 19             THE :   :   THE TREND : RISE OF THE MACHINES                   18 : 19

The Rise of the Machines
We have recently identified the rise of ‘performance design’, the increased importance
of the manufacturing process to the value of the final product. This is exemplified
by the works of designers such as Max Lamb, Maarten Baas and Front, as well as
being the major theme of Design Basel 07.
                                                                                                                                          FROM LEFT TO RIGHT :
                                                                                                                                          ‘FLOCOMACHINE’ BY jEROEN wESSELINk
                                                                                                                                          PHOTOGRAPH BY RENé VAN DE HULST
                                                                                                                                          ‘BIG DIPPER’ BY SARAH VAN GAMEREN
                                                                                                                                          ‘SLEEPING BEAUTY’ BY NADINE STERk


In a 2006 project with NYC gallerist Barry Friedman, the Swedish design studio
Front used rapid prototyping to create pieces of furniture aptly entitled ‘Sketch’,
drawn in thin air and caught using motion capture technology. The Sketch furniture
is not just about the end piece, but the act of reducing the production process down to
imagineering and fabrication.

Moving on from this is the rise of the machines: the central role played by machines and
mechanical processes, either real or invented, that enable the performance to happen.

From a world obsessed with perfection and slickness, the rise of the machine catalogues
a more visceral relationship with cogs, wheels, engines, crankshafts and moving parts
in general: a celebration of engineering and pre-digital industrial craft. This can best
be seen in Jeroen Wesselink’s ‘Flocomachine’, a device that produces stools that look so
serious it’s hard to believe they are created by slicing disused heating expansion tanks
in two and turning them into: nifty stools with a built-in air cushion.

We are also seeing the development of pieces designed to highlight the process rather
than the finished piece, further emphasising the rise of the machine. Our favourites
include ‘Big Dipper’ by RCA graduate Sarah van Gameren, a machine that mechanically
creates a 24-candle wax chandelier by dipping wicks into a vat of wax. Nadine Sterk
of Atelier NL’s ‘Sleeping Beauty’ light brings a hypnotic quality to performance design.
The lampshade knits itself using the energy generated by the light within.

By Chris Sanderson & Jasmine Labeau
THE :       :                                THE PERSON : MORITZ wALDERMEYER                       20 : 21                    THE :       :                             THE PERSON : MORITZ wALDERMEYER                             20 : 21

Moritz Waldemeyer’s astonishing work with star designers such as Hussein
Chalayan, Ron Arad and Fredrikson Stallard heralds a new era of
high-tech design that is crossing into the art world. Waldemeyer thrives on
pushing the boundaries of what both technology and design can achieve.
Among his extraordinary projects are an interactive Corian kitchen designed
by Zaha Hadid, an undulating Swarovski crystal chandelier by Yves Béhar
and a video dress designed by Hussein

                             Moritz Waldemeyer                                                                                                                                               ‘The video dress project was really interesting to work
                                                                                                                                                                                             on, to collaborate with people from lots of different fields,
                                                                                                                                                                                             especially from the fashion world. The projects are very
                                                                                                                                                                                             stressful, but the whole environment is fantastic,’ says
                                                                                                                                                                                             Waldemeyer. Unsurprisingly, he believes strongly in the
                                                                                                                                                                                             fusion between design and other disciplines, seeing the
                                                                                                                                                                                             future of design in collaborations between innovative
                                                                                                                                                                                             designers and varied, seemingly unrelated disciplines
Moritz Waldemeyer’s astonishing work with star designers                                                                                                                                     such as medicine or automobiles. ‘I think in the future
such as Zaha Hadid, Hussein Chalayan, Ron Arad and                                                                                                                                           designers will be using topics or areas outside design
Fredrikson Stallard heralds a new era of high-tech design                                                                                                                                    and bringing them into their own work and their own
that is crossing into the art world. Waldemeyer thrives                                                                                                                                      audience. I think that in the future, design will be less
on pushing the boundaries of what both technology and                                                                                                                                        about the pure form.’
design can achieve. Among his extraordinary projects are
an interactive Corian kitchen designed by Zaha Hadid, an
                                                                                                                                                                                             Design as art
undulating Swarovski crystal chandelier by Yves Béhar and
a video dress designed by Hussein Chalayan.                                                                                                                                                  As the million-pound auctions of work by Marc Newson
                                                                                                                                                                                             and Zaha Hadid demonstrate, design is carving a new
Everything started with an email to Ron Arad.                                                                                                                                                niche in the art world. Waldemeyer believes that these
Waldemeyer contacted Arad while he was working at                                                                                                                                            innovations are filling a void, citing his work with
Philips’ London research campus, developing wearable                                                                                                                                         designers such as Yves Béhar and Fredrikson Stallard
technology and futuristic technologies. ‘He invited me       in pieces that are not merely visual but that also create        Waldemeyer concedes that much of the work he has done          for Swarovski as part of this new movement. ‘I don’t find
to the studio, and then we started doing some projects       an emotional engagement. ‘People have tried to reinvent          in the past has been about making a designer’s vision          the modern art scene very inspiring. You go and see a big
together. Straight after that, the Lolita chandelier came    chairs hundreds of times, and now we have all these              a reality, rather than developing his own ideas. He hopes      exhibition and you never really get to see anything new.
about.’ Lolita is a crystal chandelier embedded with LED     different designs of chairs, so what are we going to do, go      that in the future he will be able to work on more of his      People want something special – they don’t just want
lights that can display text messages on the crystals,       and produce just another chair? No, because we’ve seen           own projects, such as the light chair or earlier projects      a canvas that’s splashed with colour and doesn’t mean
created for Swarovski. The chandelier arguably began the     it so many times before. I would rather look at something        such as an electronic roulette table made from Corian.         anything. They’d rather go and buy a crazy-looking chair
tech-design trend that is now attracting such attention      new – a chair where the technology is the innovation,            However, his big-name client roster, which includes            from Ron Arad that is incredibly well-executed and looks
and admiration from the design fraternity, as well as        rather than the form.’                                           Swarovski, DuPont and Flos doesn’t leave a lot of free time.   fantastic, and has a meaning.’
launching Waldemeyer’s singular talent.
                                                             Celestial aura                                                   Fashion in motion                                              Building the impossible
Moving experiences
                                                             Waldemeyer’s latest project, a chair, is just that. Created      One of Waldemeyer’s newest projects builds on one of           The trail blazed by Waldemeyer and his collaborators
Many of Waldemeyer’s design/technology collaborations        for the launch of gallerist Libby Sellers’ new space during      his most astounding creations: the video dress from            means that there are now very few limits to designers’
are pieces that are at their most stunning when they         London Design Week, the chair evokes the idea of a royal         Hussein Chalayan’s autumn/winter 2007/2008 collection.         dreams, signalling the most exciting and inspiring period
are in motion. Waldemeyer believes this is central to        or celestial throne, by creating an aura of light around the     The fabric of the video dress is embedded with 15,000          in design for decades. ‘The lack of limits or boundaries is
engaging people with design. ‘People don’t just want         sitter according to what colour they are wearing. ‘There         LEDs which work like a television screen, depicting            what makes my projects so exciting,’ says Waldemeyer.
to see a beautiful object any more, they want to play        are sensors built into the backrest which pick up the colour     a time-lapse image of a rose opening and closing.              ‘I’ve been really lucky that, with most of the projects I’ve
with it and see what it does. That way people get more       of what you wear and project it onto the wall behind. If you     Waldemeyer promises that the new collection of Chalayan        worked on, there have been few limits, even financially,
involved with it, and I imagine they will remember it        are wearing blue, the light behind you will be blue,’ says       dresses he is working on for spring/summer 2008 will be        to what we could do. So you get a free hand in creating
more if they can have some fun with it.’ He also believes    Waldemeyer. ‘It looks like a relatively simple chair, but it’s   even more technically challenging than the video dress,        something amazing, which is the ultimate project.’
that design for its own sake is no longer enough. Indeed,    got that innovation which is not just the shape, so it’s more    with new and different effects, although the exact details
design commentators too are noting a growing interest        about what it does than how it looks.’                           are being kept under wraps.                                    by Gwyneth Holland
THE :   :   THE PERSON : MORITZ wALDERMEYER   22 : 23   THE :       :                                 THE PERSON : MORITZ wALDERMEYER   22 : 23

                                                        TOP LEFT TO RIGHT :
                                                        ‘LOLITA’ CHANDELIER BY RON ARAD FOR SwAROVSkI CRYSTAL PALACE, 2004
                                                        ELECTRIC kID ExHIBITION AT RABIH HAGE GALLERY, 2006
                                                        BOTTOM LEFT TO RIGHT :
                                                        ‘VOYAGE’ CHANDELIER BY YVES BéHAR FOR SwAROVSkI CRYSTAL PALACE, 2005
                                                        LIGHT SENSITIVE CHAIR FOR LIBBY SELLERS, 2007
                                                        HUSSEIN CHALAYAN A/w 07/08
THE :       :                                  THE IDEA : SUPER SYNTHETICS                         24 : 25               THE :       :                                  THE IDEA : SUPER SYNTHETICS                       24 : 25

                                                                                                                         LEFT TO RIGHT :
                                                                                                                         ARMAND BASI A/w 2007/2008
                                                                                                                         MARNI A/w 2007/2008
                                                                                                                         CHLOE A/w 2007/2008
                                                                                                                         MARNI A/w 2007/2008
                                                                                                                         UTE PLOIER S/S 2008
                                                                                                                         RAF SIMONS S/S 2008

Super Synthetics                                                                                                         The current revolution in so called wonder fabrics doesn’t stop there, as The Future Laboratory’s research team
                                                                                                                         is constantly discovering. While some materials are designed to be worn, others such as cornstarch, densely
                                                                                                                         woven cellulose (a sugar cane extract), tanned perch and fish skins (from Iceland) and even dyed cow stomachs are
                                                                                                                         increasingly being used by designers and furniture makers to reshape and restyle household objects and to create
Fashion has long been urged towards being more ethical and organic, and it seems that the sector’s sustainable           new packaging ideas.
future lies with synthetic materials, rather than natural ones.
                                                                                                                         ‘We’ve even encountered bio-morphic chairs made from hand-shaped and fire-lacquered resins from design companies
A recent study by Cambridge University found that synthetic fabrics take less energy to manufacture, wash and            like Sawaya & Moroni,’ says Caroline Till, The Future Laboratory’s materials researcher. ‘Architects like OMA have
iron than natural materials such as linen or cotton; 60% of the carbon footprint of a cotton t-shirt comes from simply   produced fantastic volumetric foam interiors for Prada.’
washing and drying it. The upkeep of synthetics is far more fuel-efficient. A polyester top uses less energy over its
lifetime than its cotton counterpart.                                                                                    Wider afield still, we are seeing the emergence of coated textiles with metallic pigments that are strong enough to
                                                                                                                         unfurl across buildings, but malleable enough to be used in furniture and fashion. Luminous fabrics that have no
While yummy mummies may shudder at the idea of donning nylon instead of cashmere, forward-looking designers as           need of an independent light or battery source to power them are also appearing. The ones we’ve seen can be used in
diverse as Gareth Pugh, Basso & Brooke, Miu Miu and Marni are embracing the idea, creating ultramodern synthetics        everything from jackets to furniture coverings to interior walls and night clubs.
for autumn/winter 07/08.
                                                                                                                         The magic of modern materials doesn’t stop there. Consider ceramic tiles that light up and glow when you connect
Pugh takes synthetics in a direction that smacks of fetish, with his glossy PVC raincoats and transparent plastics,      one to the other, carbon nanotubes that can be woven into the lightest and softest materials to make them stronger
while Consuela Castiglioni at Marni cuts easy, sporty shapes from shiny black rubbers and PVCs. Her designs              and more resistant than kryptonite, or chemically bonded nano dyes that can make even the most unsavoury bloke’s
emphasise the sophisticated, futuristic qualities of synthetics when paired with earthy wools and cool greys.            underwear a joy to sniff and wear by making it bacteria-resistant!

Shiny accessories are also key to the futuristic look, with Miu Miu’s laminated fabric bags and Stella McCartney’s       We’ve even encountered a process that allows designers, artists, furniture makers, graphic designers and textile
grey satin-and-PVC shoes set to become must-haves.                                                                       printers to produce images on a variety of materials and surfaces from wood to linen. The process uses a computer
                                                                                                                         that mills designs into even the tiniest layers so that intricate and complex images can be permanently imprinted.
Looking ahead, for spring/summer 2008 menswear designers are fully embracing the technical capabilities of               A brave new world indeed.
synthetics, from Raf Simons’ nylon suits and laminated jackets to newcomer Ute Ploier’s monochrome synthetics
paired with boxy white cotton shirts and knee-length shorts.                                                             by Gwyneth Holland
THE :       :                                 THE TREND : RISE OF THE MACHINES                      26 : 27            THE :       :                                 THE TREND : RISE OF THE MACHINES   26 : 27

Light is the medium of choice for a new
wave of artists and designers seeking
to create stimulating, interactive
environments. These new visual
experiences, fuelled by developments
in cutting-edge display technology and
materials, are challenging existing
perceptions of surface and structure.

Light Futures
Light is the medium of choice for a new wave of artists and designers seeking to create stimulating, interactive
environments. These new visual experiences, fuelled by developments in cutting-edge display technology and
materials, are challenging existing perceptions of surface and structure.

A diverse range of designers that includes Paul Cocksedge, United Visual Artists and Moritz Waldemeyer is
creating immersive experiences delivered via a combination of LED, traditional lighting and projection technologies.

Kubik, a touring outdoor installation and club, harnesses a series of 1,000-litre water tanks, each illuminated
and programmed by different vjs, to serve as an oversized video wall. Developed by Balestra Berlin, Kubik invites
djs from all over Europe to supplement the visual performance.

Simon Heijdens also employs light in a move away from the static. ‘Tree’ involves a computer-generated tree
projected onto the side of buildings. It responds subtly to passing foot traffic by shedding leaves which eventually
form a realistic swirl of discarded vegetation.

Paul Cocksedge’s recent project ‘Private View’ utilises technology as a link between experts and amateur observers,
who are led into a dark room with black glass walls. The exhibition behind the glass is only visible through the
infrared lenses of digital cameras and mobile phones.

Meanwhile, Random International has created a temporary printing machine which ‘prints’ patterns on light
sensitive paper using shining pulses of light, in an attempt to capture the ephemeral nature of light. Osman Khan’s
‘Sur La Table’ casts rays of colour, rather than shadows, from the objects placed on it. The colours of bowls,
plates and other objects are picked up by a camera above the table, and projected back onto the tabletop to give
a rainbow effect.

by Caroline Till
                                                                                                                       TOP FROM LEFT TO RIGHT :
RANDOM-INTERNATIONAL.SqUARESPACE.COM                                                                                   ‘PRIVATE VIEw’ BY PAUL COCkSEDGE
UVA.CO.Uk                                                                                                              ‘TREE’ BY SIMON HEIjDENS
SIMONHEIjDENS.COM                                                                                                      MIDDLE LEFT TO RIGHT :
PAULCOCkSEDGE.CO.Uk                                                                                                    ‘SUR LA TABLE’ BY OSMAN kHAN
OSMANkHAN.COM                                                                                                          ‘TEMPORARY PRINTER’ BY RANDOM INTERNATIONAL
kUBIkBERLIN.DE                                                                                                         BOTTOM :
DROOGDESIGN.NL                                                                                                         LAMPSHADE DETAIL BY RANDOM INTERNATIONAL
THE :       :                                     THE TRIBE : ROLODEx TEENS                           28 : 29                    THE :        :                                     THE TRIBE : ROLODEx TEENS                          28 : 29

Rolodex Teens
                                                                                                                                                                                                 TO FIND OUT MORE INFORMATION ABOUT
                                                                                                                                                                                                 ROLODEx TEENS AND OTHER SOCIAL
                                                                                                                                                                                                 TRIBES VISIT OUR LIFE SIGNS NETwORk

                                                                                                                                                                                                 LEFT TO RIGHT :
With no overarching trend to unite them,                                                                                                                                                         PUNk DANDIES
Rolodex Teens change their identity at                                                                                                                                                           MAD HATTER
                                                                                                                                                                                                 SUPER SUPER kIDS
a click of their MySpace page Increased
access to information means that they                                                                                                                                                            PHOTOGRAPHY BY GILES PRICE

can research the most obscure bygone                                                                                                                                                             GILESPRICE.COM

eras. Why stop at one? Rolodex Teens
chop and change their look and musical
taste when they feel like it – just like
flipping through a Rolodex.
As the lifespan of fads shortens, Rolodex Teens are looking
less far back for cultural touchpoints, recycling trends
from the last decade or even more recently. We have
already seen the return of rave, grunge and metal, which
had a first run in this generation’s own lifetime.

Artists such as Lily Allen, Amy Winehouse and Klaxons
reference older music styles in their music, and this
leads teen listeners to research the styles further. They
strive to carve out their own identity by seeking out the
underground – think Big in Japan rather than the Sex
Pistols. Therefore the internet is essential for the Rolodex                                                                     Mad Hatters
                                                               ‘The reasons why teens want to make a statement have not
Teen. Never before have they been able to research
                                                                changed that much. They still want to assert their identity,     ‘We’re a group set on world domination through tearooms
these subcultures in such minute detail. Original video
                                                                attract like-minded people and distance themselves from           across the world. We also have coachloads of style.
footage is available on sites such as YouTube, Revver and
                                                                their parents’ generation.’                                       I suppose it’s a rebellion against the cliché of upper-class
AllHipHop. Old songs can be found on download sites
                                                                                                                                  Englishmen who drink tea: we are redefining it as a
such as iTunes or eMusic or P2P sites such as LimeWire
                                                               Postcode Trends                                                    something anyone can do. I’d rather have tea and cake
and Soulseek.
                                                                                                                                  than Wotsits and lager any time of the day.’
                                                               Rolodex Teens express pride in where they come from and
For the Rolodex Teen interested in disco, vaguely having       revel in telling stories of their locale to the whole world via
                                                                                                                                 Mad Hatters are local teen communities based around
heard of Studio 54 is not good enough. It’s about knowing      social networking. Brands and marketers need to address
                                                                                                                                 the old-fashioned fun of throwing a tea party with close
the roles of David Mancuso and Larry Levan in the early        this ultra-local aspect of the youth market. Take RiUvEn,
                                                                                                                                 friends, dubbed ‘Tea Cake Tuesdays’. Nostalgic,
disco scene, why clubs such as the Gallery, Continental        a rapper from Liverpool, who has almost 3,000 friends
                                                                                                                                 young fogeyish and cheerfully middle-class, this group
Baths and Paradise Garage were so important, what              on his MySpace account. He raps about roads in Toxteth
                                                                                                                                 is also about resisting youth stereotypes and dissociating
labels were worn and what drugs were taken.                    where he is from, typical Liverpool Saturday nights and
                                                                                                                                 from virtual socialising.
                                                               his football club (LFC) in a strong Scouse accent, peppered
The Adaptive Generation                                        with Liverpool slang.
                                                                                                                                 However, thanks to word-of-internet, there are Tea Cake
Martin Lindstrom, author of BRANDchild and                                                                                       Tuesday chapters all around the UK and as far away as
                                                               In Essex and the London suburbs, Nike Air Max 95s
BRANDsense, notes that kids adapt trends substantially                                                                           Madrid, Paris and Los Angeles.                                   Super Super Kids
                                                               are known as ‘One Tens’ because they cost £110. This
quicker than adults. ‘Adults are able to handle 1.7
                                                               rebranding of product is postcode specific. Ask about One                                                                         ‘What makes me excited about being nu rave is that it
channels at the same time, whereas kids can handle 5.4                                                                           Punk Dandies
                                                               Tens in Manchester and people will have no idea what you                                                                           could become the trend of the 00s, one of the remembered
channels at the same time (and still understand
                                                               are talking about.                                                ‘I like my shoes to have a point and my trousers to be tight.    eras like the swinging 60s. I just love being part of
what they’re reading, watching, playing or hearing).
                                                                                                                                  I have a preference for ‘proper’ shirts. I like scarves and     something that isn’t conventional.’
This is one of the main reasons why they adapt trends
                                                               We see teenage girls in Bethnal Green, London, wearing             cravats, but worn in the right way. Whatever I wear it’s
quicker – simply because they’ve established a hunger
                                                               pyjama bottoms while knocking about town, while                    going to be tight.’                                             The outrageous Super Super Kids, at the extreme end
for trends (and news).’
                                                               clubbers at Boombox in London have taken to wearing                                                                                of the nu rave movement, are recognised for their
                                                               retro calculators around their necks. We have noticed             Dandy meets indie in the Punk Dandy tribe. It’s Syd              extravagant, brightly coloured clothes. Inspired by late
Dedicated Followers of Fashion
                                                               Oxford teenagers mixing scruffy tracksuit bottoms with            Barrett rather than Noël Coward, cravat and skinny jeans         80s/early 90s rave scene, they are the 21st century’s
 As catwalk looks are copied faster and more faithfully        cummerbunds.                                                      over top-to-toe tailoring; suit-wearing guitar bands trump       fun-loving, party-mashing club kids. Super Supers,
 by high-street brands such as Topshop, H&M and                                                                                  big band. Punk Dandies seek to distinguish themselves            aged from 13 to 20something, are found in cities all
 Zara, how teens dress is levelling out. Websites such as      ‘We also see the reaction from certain youth segments             and their style by dressing up rather than down, unlike          over the UK.
 Shareyourlook, on which users worldwide post pictures          away from globalisation, which in turn drives them to            many other Rolodex Teens. Punk Dandies interpret
 of their outfits, show just how high-street homogeneity        feel favourably toward local shops,’ says Douglas Dunn,          dandyism in their own individual way. This group                Being Super Super is about being free. They dress
 has taken over. Rolodex Teens rebel against this by            managing director of the research agency Tuned In.               identifies with counterculturalism and anti-capitalism          individually and listen to a mash-up of new and old indie,
 putting together outlandish outfits in order to stand out.    ‘This extends within the segment to not wanting to wear           and is committed to its bygone affiliations and vintage         rave, hip hop and disco. They relish the old-school video
‘If the 80s and 90s were about brands, the 00s is about         the logo of a global brand, or at least not ostentatiously,      wardrobes. Their intensity and single-mindedness about          games, DIY sound-recording machines and modern-day
 style,’ says Sarah Bentley, the BBC’s Culture Shock youth      resulting in the recent success of companies like Topshop        fashion and life in general is one of the driving forces        computer sounds. For Super Supers, it isn’t nostalgia: they
 culture commentator.                                           and H&M who feature, on the whole, unbranded ranges.’            behind their distinctive look.                                  weren’t there the first time round.
THE :       :                                      THE ONE : MUST HAVES                           30 : 31                   THE :       :                                        THE ONE : MUST HAVES                              30 : 31

The things we can’t                      the ash should be dispersed after        Exhibition : Art and Sex                  Store : Carlos Miele, Paris                                                           Gadget : $100 Laptop
                                         cremation,’ says Jarvis. Her newest
live without                             design, the ‘Scatter’ urn, is designed   from Antiquity to Now                     Asymptote’s new Paris store for                                                       The One Laptop Per Child (OLPC)

The One
                                         to be hung from a tree, so that                                                    fashion designer Carlos Miele                                                         campaign has been grabbing
                                         movement of the tree in the wind         If you happen to be in London between
                                                                                  12 October 2007 and 27 January            combines the intricacy of Miele’s lace                                                the headlines for its humanitarian
                                         allows the holes in the base to slowly                                             and satin creations with classic                                                      mission to spread XO computers
                                         scatter a loved one’s ashes. The         2008 be sure to visit Art and Sex from
                                                                                  Antiquity to Now at the Barbican.         Parisian Art Deco style and a touch                                                   across the developing world.
                                         cremains can be divided between                                                    of Stanley Kubrick.                                                                   Even those with access to a plethora
                                         several urns so that friends and         This explicit show features artists
                                                                                  that include Jeff Koons, Tracey                                                                                                 of technology can’t help but appreciate
                                         family members can be involved.                                                    ‘We were inspired by the final scene                                                  Yves Béhar’s rugged design, and
                                         The urns are being showcased             Emin, Matthew Barney, Francis
                                                                                                                            in 2001: A Space Odyssey, how it                                                      inside, its pragmatic features and
Movie : The King of Kong                 at funeral arts company Funeria.         Bacon, Louise Bourgeois, Beardsley
                                                                                                                            combines rococo and ultra-modern                                                      innovative interface.
                                                                                  and Picasso, as well as Roman
                                                                                  marbles, Indian manuscripts,              styles,’ says Hani Rashid, principal of
This tale of arcade game supremacy
                                                                                  Renaissance paintings, Chinese prints     Asymptote Architecture.                                                               Each XO is a wireless router,
spans two decades. Seth Gordon’s
                                                                                  and Japanese woodcuts spanning                                                                                                  meaning that children can connect
directorial debut follows the story
                                                                                  2,000 years.                              The store is a minimal container                                                      with their peers in the community,
of Billy Mitchell, 80s Donkey Kong
                                                                                                                            with a Parisian influence. Rounded,                                                   see what they are up to and join
record holder, and Steve Wiebe, a
                                                                                  But be warned, the exhibition isn’t for   futuristic shapes in shimmering                                                       in. The XO also runs open-source
classic beta man who stumbles upon
                                                                                  the sexually faint-hearted and is for     materials such as mother-of-pearl,                                                    software which allows the users to
Donkey Kong when laid off from his
                                                                                  over-18s only.                            smooth lacquer and polished white                                                     reshape programmes to suit them.
job over 20 years later.
                                                                                                                            stone create a mist-like atmosphere.       Designer :                                 This technology is still niche in the
Wiebe surpasses Mitchell’s record,
                                                                                                                            A computer-milled polymer lattice          Nutre Arayavanish                          developed world, meaning that the
                                                                                                                            swooping around the space evokes                                                      OLPC project could help developing
which is the starting point for this
                                                                                                                            Miele’s use of lace and curvaceous         Thai designer Nutre Arayavanish            nations Leapfrog‚ the west.
charming documentary. It is not so
                                                                                                                            Art Nouveau style.                         brings a new meaning to the term
much the subject that makes this
film, but more the manner in which                                                                                                                                     flat-pack with her beautiful and
                                                                                                                            Forthcoming projects from Asymptote        witty jewellery, which explores the
Mitchell and Wiebe seek to protect
                                                                                                                            include a new Carlos Miele store in        relationship between 2D and 3D
their standing, having found the one
                                                                                                                            São Paulo, the tallest building in Asia    forms. Rings and necklaces are
thing at which they truly excel.
                                                                                                                            and a 50-storey luxury apartment
                                         Festival : Lake of Stars                                                           block in Abu Dhabi. Carlos Miele,
                                                                                                                                                                       created by slotting and layering flat
                                                                                                                                                                       pieces together.
                                                                                                                            380 rue Saint Honoré, Paris, opens
                                         Since 2004, the buzz around
                                                                                                                            October 2007.
                                         the Lake of Stars festival in Malawi     Magazine : A5                                                                        For example, Arayavanish’s ‘Petal’
                                                                                                                                                                       necklace is pressed out of a flat board,
                                         has slowly been growing. Lake of
                                         Stars was founded to raise money for     If you are going to read any magazine                                                as is her ‘Postable’ ring, a postcard-
                                         charity and also to bring valuable       apart from this one, make it A5. This                                                sized board which contains the pieces
                                         tourist dollars to the area. Featured    Israeli-based creative extravaganza                                                  to make a ring. She emphasises the
                                         stars have included Felix B (Basement    features work from artists, writers,                                                 journey the jewellery takes before
                                         Jaxx), Andy Cato (Groove Armada)         illustrators, graphic designers and                                                  assembly. ‘Letters, postcards or
                                         and Mikey General (Bugz in the Attic)    photographers from as far afield as                                                  greeting cards always bear the evidence
                                         as well as homegrown acts.               the US, Finland and Germany.                                                         of the journey.’ Her talent has already
                                                                                  Like literary title Granta or fashion                                                been recognised by awards and
                                         The African artists are the most         bible Visionaire, the content of each                                                nominations that include New Designer
                                         interesting, because the festival        issue is united by a single theme; for                                               of the Year at the Business Design
                                         provides a rare opportunity to see       the first issue this was ‘beginning’,                                                Centre and the RCA’s Theo Fennell          CARLOSMIELE.COM.BR
                                                                                                                                                                       Award for Best Work in Jewellery.
                                         the best of African music. This year’s   the second looks at ‘fantasy’ and the     Book : The Endless City                                                               LAPTOP.ORG
                                         line up includes Ste Hodge, Dexterity,   third at ‘obsession’.                                                                                                           NUTREjEwELLER.COM/2007
                                         Pierre-Estienne and Shaun Duvet.                                                   Did you know that 445km of metro
                                         For less than the price of a ticket to   Our favourite thing about A5 is that      lines will be built in Shanghai                                                       ARE YOU wORkING ON A CREATIVE
                                         Glastonbury, punters get better          it comes unbound, so readers              between now and 2020? Or that 75%                                                     PROjECT THAT SHOULD FEATURE
                                         weather, plus the chance to explore      are free to display images on their       of the world’s energy use is accounted                                                IN THESE PAGES? DO YOU kNOw SOMEONE
                                         a new culture and take part in some      walls – no more painstaking hours         for by cities? Or that 27% of London’s                                                wHO IS? HAVE YOU SPOTTED A
                                         responsible tourism.                     with a scalpel!                           residential population was born                                                       MUST-HAVE, MUST-DO, MUST-SEE OR
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  MUST-kNOw THAT wE’VE MISSED?
                                                                                                                            outside of the UK? There’s no better
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                                                                                                                            good statistic and The Endless City
Product : Scatter Urn                                                                                                       (Phaidon) provides plenty.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  AND LET US kNOw. YOU’LL RECEIVE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  A REGULAR COMPLEMENTARY COPY OF
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  THE : MAGAZINE TOO.
Product designer Nadine Jarvis gives                                                                                        Ricky Burdett, centennial professor
a new twist to the rituals of death.                                                                                        in Architecture and Urbanism at
Her designs include a bird feeder                                                                                           the London School of Economics, and
made from birdseed and human ash,                                                                                           architectural journalist Deyan Sudjic
which enable the ash to be dispersed                                                                                        explore the facts and figures that
over a wide area, and a set of pencils                                                                                      define the world’s increasingly urban-
made from the carbon in cremated                                                                                            dwelling population. The Endless City
remains. ‘I’m interested in allowing                                                                                        is well-designed, with colour-coded maps
natural cycles to determine when                                                                                            and bold presentation of statistics.
THE :        :                               THE LAST wORD : wE TOLD YOU SO                         32 :

We said : ‘Originally roof advertisements were limited to buildings by airports, capturing the attention of
excited passengers starting or finishing their travels. The introduction of Google Earth has given a new lease
of life to roofvertising.’ (The Future Laboratory Trend Briefing, Autumn 2006)
Now : Advertisers are embracing Google Earth’s possibilities for striking adverts, with Target, Ikea and
Continental Airlines branding the roofs of their buildings. The trend has evolved into movie studios creating
oversized ads to promote blockbuster releases; the ads can only be fully seen from the air. Our favourite
is the recent 70m by 50m Homer Simpson painted alongside the famous 17th-century giant fertility symbol
carved into the hillside at Cerne Abbas in Dorset. Finally, here is advertising to match the size of
Hollywood’s ambitions.

We Told You So
The Last Word

Secret Cities
We said : ‘Cities can be explored and rediscovered with new way-finding devices and interactive technology.
This encourages people to look at their surroundings in new ways.’ (The Future Laboratory Trend
Briefing, Spring 2007)
Now : Radio frequency identification (RFID) technology is being used to help pedestrians navigate Tokyo’s
notoriously confusing city streets. RFIDs transmit 3D images of the city to pedestrians’ PDAs, showing streets
and store locations. In the future, the technology could be developed to promote specific stores or locations
when a shopper is looking for a particular item, such as a digital camera. The RFIDs would map a path to the
store via a link sponsored by the retailer, as well as providing a personalised service once they arrive.

W(h)ealthcare Futures
We said : ‘Health and wealth have long been contributing factors to our lifestyle choices but it is the integration
of the two, resulting in the emergence of a new economic and lifestyle concept, that will change our sense of
luxury and life choices in the future.’ (Viewpoint #15, Spring 2004)
Now : W(h)ealthcare breaks are common holiday choices. Research from Mintel indicates that in the last year
Britons went on no less than 205,000 health and wellness holidays, to benefit from yoga classes, holistic
healing, spa visits or even to recuperate from surgery. In 2006 Britons spent an estimated £135m on this type
of holiday. Mintel predicts that sales of wellness holidays are set to increase by as much as 150% by 2011.

Tea Chic
We said : ‘A fashionable clientele of tea-drinkers are allowing themselves the daily ritual of a tea break. Tea bars
are starting to take hold, offering a fresh emphasis on tradition, personalisation, ritual and health. Taking
afternoon tea at London hotels such as the Ritz, Claridge’s and the Westbury currently has to be booked six weeks
in advance.’ (The Future Laboratory Newsletter, Summer 2005)
Now : Tea has become a key ritual for the cool crowd in London’s East End, from the new tea-and-burlesque parties
run by Viva Cake to the Last Tuesday Society’s literary tea parties and the revival of tea dances in south London.
We’re also seeing the emergence of a new generation of elegant tea salons, such as Tea Smith in east London.

We said : ‘Smokers worldwide are running out of space. Some governments and councils are even moving
to stop people from smoking in their cars. Ingenious smokers, however, are coming up with new ways
to beat the ban and get their hit.’ (The Future Laboratory Newsletter, Summer 2006)
Now : Smokeasies are popping up in no-smoking US cities such as Seattle and New York, as the illicit thrill
of smoking in a bar evokes the seedy glamour of moonshine liquor during Prohibition. We are also seeing
the rise of ‘smocial networking’, the new networks being built with the likeminded people that smokers
meet while enjoying a quick drag outside bars and clubs.

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