Every country has a Margaret Fulton

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					2                                                                                                                                          morsels                              Food & Wine Wednesday, June 13, 2007

                                                                            Get them cooking                                 El Salvador plated up
editor                                                                      These are lovely products. Little cotton         What must be Canberra’s first El
Kirsten Lawson                                                              aprons, wooden spoons and                        Salvadorian restaurant has opened in
                                                                            rolling pins, a pizza tray – making              Manuka, taking over the Palmerston

                                                                            the kids want to climb on                        Lane spot of Christophe’s. At El Torogoz,
            very country has a Margaret Fulton.                             a stool and get cooking.                         Jorge Perez is offering fantastic-sounding
            Across the Tasman, it’s Alison Holst.                           Not cheap, but terribly                          tastes of El Salvador, such as a streamed
            These are the post-Edmonds Cookbook                             cute. The Wholesome                              parcel of chicken, potato and boiled egg
            home cooks, whose recipes traverse all
                                                                            Productions gear is made                         wrapped in banana leaf (pictured); tripe
            the classics you could need, but with
repertoires that go beyond the basic, lending a                             by Sam Skinner, who set up                       stew; cassava with pork and cabbage;
little sophistication to your kitchen. In her latest                        this year from her Sydney                        and plantain banana with palm sugar.
book, Fulton collects her favourites from half                              home. Pizza kits for                             We’re pleased to see the plan for a more
a century, introducing each with an anecdote                                $39.99, aprons $24.99.                           “international” menu has been pared
explaining when and where she found them                                    Available through www.                           back. 6295 6703.
– Sydney’s Chinatown in the 1950s, visits to                                wholesomeproductions.
France, where she bought copper pots more than                              com.au
50 years ago that she still uses, and to China in
the 1970s, and other parts of Europe and Asia.
She has a recipe for piroshki, soft buns filled
with onion and smoked bacon, picked up from
a Russian reader of Woman’s Day in the 1970s.                               Still waiting                                    Wild in winter                                      Class at Glass
In those sausage-roll days, she says, it seemed
very exotic. A salmon and eggplant curry was                                The finalists in the national “young              Ahh, real ice cream. Creamy, soft,                  Colleague Emma Macdonald ate at
inspired by a visit to a member of the Thai royal
                                                                            chef” and “young waiter” awards have             refreshing and brightly flavoured. The               Luke Mangan’s swanky Glass Brasserie
family 40 years ago, she picked up a Chinese
                                                                            been announced. None from Canberra               honey and walnut tastes deeply of the               in Sydney recently, where her very posh
white chicken recipe on a visit to China at the
time of Chairman Mao’s death, while a stuffed                               – not surprising, considering there were         two flavours; the raspberry so brightly              (and beautiful) dinner was punctuated
pork-belly dish was given to her by a relative                              no entries from our city. The NSW/ACT            of the berries. Gundowring is made by               regularly by yells of “oi” from the open
of Sigmund Freud in Britain. And of course,                                 finalist for waiters is Jason Chow, of            Stephen and Sarah Crooke from milk                  kitchen. What’s going on? Were they
Steak Diane, that flamed stalwart of the 1950s                               Aria, in Sydney; and for chefs Kyle Quy,         from their own cows in                              cheering sport on a kitchen television
and ’60s. With half a lifetime of brandy-snap                               of 360 Dining in Sydney. What is it with         Victoria. Sometimes,                                between plating the $85 a couple dessert
disasters to her name, our Sydney writer,                                   the Canberra crowd? Freaked by the               they get wild as                                    bits? Nothing so off-topic, as it turns out.
Jenna Price, went straight to the top – asking                              prospect of competing against Sydney?            in the blue cheese,                                 “Oi” is an acknowledgement by kitchen
Fulton to set her straight on these afternoon-                              Or is it a silent protest at not getting a       or shiraz and black                                 staff that they’ve heard the latest order
tea essentials of an era past. Fulton does admit                            state category of their own? Launched            pepper flavours.                                     from wait staff. How very military. But a
there’s “a little skill” in timing the baking so the                        by Luke Mangan, these are big awards             Luscious. Selling at                                little unatmospheric, perhaps. Like those
snaps don’t stick to the tray, and rolling them                             with big prizes, including a trip to Venice      Foodlovers Belconnen.                               bells that some lesser establishments use
quickly but gently afterwards. Fulton, it seems,                            for the winner.                                  $10 for 500ml.                                      to signal a ready plate.
is still a tough cookie in the kitchen, insisting
on standards of orderliness and organisation
that Price – and other mums like her – find
impossible to live up to. Price describes what it’s
like to spend a few hours under Fulton’s tutelage
in this week’s cover story.                                                                                                  Then there were two
                                                                                                                             Jeff Piper and Justin Kavanagh have
                                                                                                                                                                                 Next Thursday
Keep questions coming for our chef experts. If
you want to know how to deal with a special                                                                                  bought out their partners in Anise, Nick            The Boathouse is hosting the next
ingredient, the secrets of a culinary technique                                                                              and Aspa Carter. Anise has been on the              Andrew McEwin wine dinner, featuring
or recipe, or have any kitchen questions that                                                                                market, but it didn’t sell, so Piper and            a series of wines produced by McEwin
only an expert can answer, write in. In a new                                                                                Kavanagh (pictured) decided to go it                under his own Kyeema label, plus some
section of Food and Wine, our chef experts will                                                                              alone. It’s the end of a long partnership           from Lakeview Estate, Pialligo, Wee
answer your questions and supply the recipes                                                                                 for chefs Piper and Nick Carter, who                Jasper, Barton and Gidgee. So much
you request. Email food.wine@canberratimes.                                                                                  worked at the Charcoal and Artespresso,             for the wines, but the food is very hush
com.au (“expert question” in the subject line),                                                                              before opening Anise almost six years               hush. John Doyle, at Lakeview, says
or drop your question in to The Canberra Times                                                                               ago. Just another challenge for Piper and           they’re keeping the menu a surprise. This
front desk at Fyshwick.
                                                                                                                             Kavanagh, who told us on Valentine’s                is slippery ground. All the secrecy only
                                                                                                                             Day it took a year of working together to           means more pressure to deliver. 7pm.
                                                                                                                             sort out the dynamic. Apprentice Emma               $95.
                                                                                                                             Langshaw will step up as sous chef.

Contact Editorial Kirsten Lawson Phone (02) 6280 2411 Fax (02) 6280 2282 Advertising Maree Neale Phone (02) 6280 2187 Cover Brandy snaps from Margaret Fulton’s new book, Margaret Fulton’s Kitchen.

      Serious About Ta Canberra Times Dining Directory
                                                modern australian                                                         italian cuisine                                         french cuisine

                                                                                                                                                                          Ardeche Restaurant A la carté
                                                Roundabout Restaurant                                                                                                                  Lunch Special $20.00
                                                Open daily for a great buffet breakfast and open Mon-                                                                        main course + glass of house wine + coffee or tea

                                                Fri for a relaxing dinner in a comfortable and relaxing
                                                atmosphere. Value for your dining dollar and plenty of                                                                               Early Birds Dinner $25.50
                                                                                                                                                                                         from 5.30pm to 7.00pm
                                                free off-street parking with children’s menu. Affordable                                                                             2 courses + glass of house wine
                                                wine list.                                                                                                                                  bookings essential
                                                                                                                                                                            P I 6230 4800 A I 222 City walk
                                                                                                                           All you can eat                                (Between Canberra Theatre & Canberra Centre)

                                                                                                                           Pasta & Pizza
                                                                                                                       Monday and Tuesday nights                          To advertise in this
                                                                                                                     Southern Italian origin                              directory, contact
                                                                                                                   modern Australian influences
                                                                                                                                                                          Cindy Daniel today
                                                                                                                                    Ph 6296 2995

                                                                                                                                                                                  6280 2406
                                                              p 6162 7291
                                                        a Hopetoun Circuit, Deakin

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