Vino FAQ by niusheng11

VIEWS: 347 PAGES: 15

       1.1    What plug should I use? How do I check / change the plug?
       1.2    How do I replace the gear oil?
       1.3    What type fuel should I use?
       1.4    What type of oil should I use? Synthetic or conventional?
       1.5    How do I replace the headlamp?
       1.6    Blinker problems
       2.1     Where can I buy replacement parts for my Vino?
       2.2     Where can I buy Yamaha accessories for my Vino?
       2.3     Where can I buy aftermarket decorative parts?
       2.4     Where can I buy aftermarket performance parts?

         3.1    I want more power. Where do I start? How fast can I make the Vino
         3.2    De-restricting
         3.3    Exhausts
         3.4    Clutch springs and the main spring
         3.5    Larger piston and cylinder
         3.6    Larger carb and replacing the throttle cables
         3.7    Re-jetting the carb and reading plugs
         3.8    Performance varators and kevlar belts
         3.9    Replacement crankshafts
         3.10   Replacing the rear shock
         3.11   Replacement tires
                 REPLACEMENT TIRES
                 TIRE REMOVAL
                 REPLACING A TIRE
                 REPAIRING A TIRE
         3.12   Upgraded brakes

         4.1    How do I change over to the Japanese style turn signals?

         5.1      Do I need a license to ride a Vino?
         5.2      How much did people pay for their Vinos?
         5.3      Safety equipment
         5.4      Insurance
         5.5      Security and locks
         5.6      How do you remove stickers?
         5.7      Can I carry a passenger?
   1.1. What plug should I use? How do I check / change the plug?                     Back to top

To remove the spark plug, first remove the trim panel directly under the front of the seat (two
screws under the seat, one on the front of the panel. Next, remove the floor panel (four bolts on
the floor of the panel, four screws holding it onto the side panels). Carefully remove the floor
panel (tip the front of it up and be careful not to smack up the side panels). Pull the spark plug
wire off of the plug (HOLD IT BY THE PLASTIC BOOT, NOT THE WIRE!!!!). Unscrew the
spark plug (counter-clockwise is loosen, clock-wise is tighten) with a spark plug socket (13/16th,
I believe). It's a good idea to put a little die-electric grease on the threads when re-inserting the
spark plug. Hand tighten it to avoid cross threading, then once the base of the plug has made
contact with the cylinder head, turn it about 1/4 turn further.

As for the type of plug to use, stick with the stock plug if you're running a stock cylinder. If
you're using an aftermarket aluminum cylinder, a NGK BR9HS (or B9HS) is probably what you
want. With NGK plugs, the number indicates the heat rating - a B9HS is a cooler plug than a
B8HS, which is cooler than a B7HS, etc…etc….

   1.2.     How do I replace the gear oil?                                    Back to top
   1.3.     What type fuel should I use? (by David F Wilcox)

For your average Vino, there is no real difference between "Premium" gasoline (usually 92 or 93
octane) and regular 87 octane. Psychologically, there seems to be a big difference. Intelligent,
rational people swear that filling up with premium is the only way to go. Here's how it works;
Octane is the resistance to burn. The higher the rating, the slower the burn when ignited by the
spark plug. The higher octane allows for better control of burning for "performance" high
compression engines (i.e. not the Vino). By not igniting so readily it helps avoid pre-ignition.
This may give a small safety margin if you're running your Vino too hot (i.e. too lean), but for a
properly tuned engine, it makes no difference.

Premium does not burn with more power than regular gas. Speed and acceleration do not come
from the octane rating of the gasoline, they come the engine configuration. High octane gas is
neither cleaner nor is it less likely to leave carbon deposits. In fact, the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency requires that all octane grades of all brands of gasoline contain essentially the
same engine cleaning detergent additives to protect against harmful buildups. The quality of your
two-stroke oil is much more important for a clean engine.
The only gasolines you should avoid are the "Gasohols". These are cheap "blends" which contain
Methyl Alcohol or Ethyl Alcohol they are not legal in every city or state. If they are legal they
MUST be labeled at the pump. The Vino engine will not run as well with gasahol, and parts such
as the carburetor may be damaged. Gas that has been cut or contaminated will also cause you a
lot of headaches. Your best bet is to avoid cheap, off-brand filling stations in general.

To summarize; Premium gas doesn't help you, and it doesn't hurt you. If it makes you feel better,
if you believe you're going faster or running smoother, then keep buying it. But don't worry
about using regular.

   1.4.     What type of oil should I use? Synthetic or conventional? Back to top

The general consensus is that synthetics burn much cleaner and provide much better lubrication
than conventional two stroke oil. Some specific brands that people use and recommend are Klotz
2-stroke Oil and Red Line Two Stroke Racing Oil. The Red Line is available online at if you do not have a distributor in your area.

   1.5.   How do I replace the headlamp? (Info from, The Archangel,
     and Moochie Cat)                                             Back to top

The Yamaha Genuine Parts replacement bulb part # is 1ML-84314-00-XX. The manufacturer of
the bulb is Narva and it's their HS1 12V 35/35W bulb with some additional numbers on the box:
- PX43t-38 (E)R37 48220. You don’t get the whole headlamp just the little replacement bulb.
Shop around and compare prices as the dealer is bound to cost more than somewhere else.
To get to the headlight bulb you need to remove the headlight cover by removing the two screws
by the handlebars and the one screw by the horn (below the headlight). After that move the foam
protective shield, remove the wire connector from the headlight plug, then carefully pull back
the rubber boot from around the headlight. Notice the brass-looking lock-ring and turn it the
opposite way of the LOCK arrows (counter-clockwise, I believe): no tools needed for the lock-
ring. You may want to take note of the way the plugs of the old light bulb face so you can put
the new one in the same way (but only if you're anal-retentive, like I am, hehe). Reverse the
process to put it all back together, making note of the turn signal boots on the sides of the
headlight cover as you replace the headlight cover and bolt it back up. It was only after going
through this process that I was able to figure out how to adjust the level of my high/low beams.
Before this, my high beams were up in the trees, completely off the road and useless, so adjust
them if necessary.

   1.6.    Blinker problems                                                 Back to top

After switching the blinker on, the instrument panel light (green) flashed once but the front
blinker did not go on and neither did the rear blinker. I first thought something went really bad
with it. The next morning I removed the light bulb from the front left and noticed it was blown.

Basically if you think you have an electrical problem with your blinkers first check the bulbs.

   2.1. Where can I buy replacement parts for my Vino?                      Back to top
   2.2. Where can I buy Yamaha accessories for my Vino?
   2.3. Where can I buy aftermarket decorative parts?
   2.4. Where can I buy aftermarket performance parts?


   3.1.     I want more power. Where do I start? How fast can I make the Vino go?
                                                                            Back to top
The Vino, as you probably know, can be modified extensively. A stock, restricted Vino is
capable of about 30 - 35 mph top speed. Simply by removing the restrictors (the Vino has two,
more on this in the next section), you can increase the top speed to about 40 mph and greatly
improve the acceleration. By replacing the exhaust and changing the rollers and springs you
should increase the top speed to about 47 mph or so. If you want more than that, you have to
start looking into more extensive modifications such as replacing the piston and cylinder and
replacing the carburetor.

How fast can you make the Vino go? A lot faster than should. If you wanted to replace the piston
and cylinder, carburetor, and final drive gearing, you could probably make a Vino run over 70
mph without a whole lot of difficulty. Please remember that there's a difference between what
you can do and what is wise. The Vino rides on 10 inch tires and has drum brakes in the front
and rear - neither are conducive to high speed cruising. Ultimately, each rider has to decide for
himself or herself how they want to modify their bike taking into account the risks, rewards,
legalities, and expenses of these upgrades.

   3.2.    De-restricting (by Ardell)                                       Back to top

Note: Results obtained performing any of these modifications are the sole responsibility of the
owner. As with any alteration that increases performance on a mechanical device, there exists a
certain degree of risk of mechanical failure. Some or all of these modifications may violate State
or Federal laws. 

These procedures assume the body panels have been removed.

The Yamaha Vino is restricted at 4 places: (in order of recommended removal)
   1. Exhaust cone located at the entrance of the exhaust pipe.
   2. Spacer ring located between the 2 front Variator pulley halves.
   3. Reed Valve restrictor block located inside the intake manifold assembly.
   4. The exhaust port is partially blocked via the cylinder casting. (listed for reference only –
      results are not worth the trouble – hence no detail)
There is debate as to whether it is CDI restricted or not. There is a real issue that the stock
connecting rod –to-crankshaft bearing assembly’s durability in this engine is subject; if the
CDI has a rpm cut-off, you don’t want to exceed this limit WITH THIS CRANK anyway. If
you do, be prepared to study the ``aftermarket crankshaft’’ section.

Exhaust cone removal: (this device essentially ``plugs’’ up the exiting exhaust gases,
effectively choking the engine, affecting entire rpm range)
Tools recommended: 10mm socket, 10mm open-end wrench, Dremel or grinder with a cut-
off disk.

A. Remove the two 10mm bolts attaching the pipe to the exhaust port on the cylinder head.
     (Definitely replace these with stainless steel ones, the stock bolts are extremely soft and
     are prone to break upon re-use)
B. Remove the three 12mm bolts holding the pipe to the bracket.
C. The cone is located just inside the entrance to the pipe, it is tack-welded in place. Use the
     Dremel or other similar tool to grind away the tacks, being careful to not cut through the
     pipe wall. Shake or blow out any metal shavings, fragments or other debris.
D. Re-attach the pipe at the cylinder loosely, making sure the metal ring-gasket is in place. It
     is a good idea to use a hi-temp copper gasket sealer like Versa-Chem Mega Copper Type
     888, applied sparingly on the pipe flange, just to make sure you get a good seal.
E. Re-attach the pipe to the bracket very loosely, then tighten the bolts at the cylinder, then
     at the bracket, making sure everything aligns. If it doesn’t, loosen the bolts and adjust as
     necessary, it will go back in place IF you have it lined up correctly. The 10mm bolts get
     torqued to 9.5 ft/lbs, the 12mm to 20 ft/lbs.
It is always a good idea to check the plug anytime the engine breathing parameters have been

Spacer ring removal: (this device limits the full travel of the drive belt, thus limiting top
Tools recommended: 10mm socket, 17mm socket, strap wrench, impact driver,

A. Remove black plastic cover from belt cover.
B. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the kick-starter. Note the lever’s orientation for re-
C. Remove the 2 screws holding the air filter housing in place.
D. Remove the 11 screws holding the drive cover in place. Note the two different lengths
    and where they came from. Also note the stainless screw holding the ground wire ring. (It
    is a very good idea to replace all these screws with stainless socket head cap screws or
E. Pull the cover off, you might have to tap the back side at the dowel pin with a hammer
    and screwdriver to break it free. Be careful not to damage the gasket between the cover
F. Secure the strap wrench around the front outside Variator pulley, aligning the strap
    evenly over the edge of the pulley edge and the fins. Use the 17mm socket and remove
    the nut. Be careful not to damage the fins.
   G. Remove the nut, conical spring washer, kick-starter one-way clutch ring, claw washer,
      outer finned pulley half and finally, the spacer ring. (it is approx. 27mm O.D x 21mm
      I.D. x 3mm thick)
   H. Reassemble everything in the opposite order removed.
   I. Torque the 17mm nut to 22 ft/lbs.
   J. The easiest way to get the belt back on is to pull it over the shaft and ``walk’’ it up to the
      bushing that slides over the shaft and spaces the pulley halves apart, grab the belt just in
      front of the rear drive pulley and squeeze together, pulling down into the pulley, this will
      give you enough slack to get the belt up over the bushing on the front Variator,
      permitting completion of re-assembly.
   K. Unless the gasket has been visibly damaged, re-use it.
   L. Make sure the clamp that holds the air filter assembly is seated correctly in it’s groove.

   Reed Valve restrictor block removal: (Not recommended unless you enlarge the main jet on
   the carb. This mod lets more air/fuel enter the crankcase providing increased low-end torque.
   Any gains may not be noticed unless switching over to a larger bore cylinder).
   Tools recommended: 10mm socket driver, 5mm allen wrench, impact driver

   A. Remove air filter assembly.
   B. The intake manifold is bolted to the crankcase on the top side with 4 allen head screws. It
      has a tubular extension that the outlet of the carb slips into, with a little notch for
      alignment. Use the 10mm socket driver to loosen the worm-gear clamp at this point. This
      connection combined with the fuel line, vacuum line, oil line and throttle cable bracket
      hold the carb in place. Pull the carb straight out from the intake manifold and secure to
      the side. You may have to temporarily disconnect some of the lines to do this.
   C. Remove the manifold.
   D. The Plenum block is white and wedge-shaped with a circular hole in the middle. Just pull
      it out and replace the manifold and carb in reverse order of removal. You will most likely
      need to replace the manifold gasket. CAUTION! Be EXTREMELY tedious working
      around the open crankcase, drop something down inside and you are screwed big-time!
   E. Reassemble everything in opposite order of removed.
   F. Check plug. This modification will definitely require re-jetting.

   3.3.     Exhausts                                                         Back to top

Often the first upgrade Vino owners do after removing the restrictors is to replace the exhaust.
An independent magazine tested many different exhausts and the Technigas Next exhaust pipe
was the best, giving the best airflow and horsepower of any exhaust that might fit our Vinos.

   3.4.     Clutch springs and the main spring
    3.5.    Larger piston and cylinder                                          Back to top

There's an old saying that "nothing beats displacement" - ultimately, if you want to go faster,
you'll need to increase the bore and / or stroke of your engine. As it's far more work to increase
the stroke of the engine (the crankshaft would need to be replaced), people prefer to increase the
bore. This is accomplished by replacing the piston and cylinder.

How big do you need to go? The stock Vino has a 49.5cc engine. Most people that upgrade go
with a 70cc piston / cylinder combination. The Airsal T-6 works very well with the Vino, as does
the Pollini cast iron and Malossi MHR 70cc kits. Please note that it is strongly recommended
that you upgrade the carburetor when you increase the size of the engine.

The first step is to remove all of the plastic around the engine - both fenders, the floorboard, and
the small panel that is in front of and under the seat (behind your calves as you ride). Next,
remove the exhaust completely. The plastic shrouding around the engine must be removed next.
The fuel, oil, and vacuum lines going to the carburetor must be removed and the carburetor must
be removed.

To start disassembling the engine, remove the four nuts that hold down the cylinder head. The
cylinder will now slide off over the piston. Slowly press down the kick-starter to rotate the piston
until it is out as far as possible. It is very important that nothing fall into the crankcase, so take a
clean rag and stuff it in the opening between the piston and crankcase. Now, remove the piston
clips - if they are circlips a pair of circlip pliers will be needed, otherwise use a pair of needle
nose pliers. Once the piston clips are removed, press the piston pin out the other side of the

The new piston and cylinder go back pretty much in the reverse order. First, slide a new base
gasket over the studs and all the way down next to the crankcase. It is easier to insert the piston
ring into the piston ring groove and to slide the piston into the cylinder before you connect the
piston to the connecting rod. Make sure that if there is a notch in the piston ring groove that the
opening in the piston ring sits around it. Connect the piston to the connecting rod with the piston
pin. Please make sure the openings in the new piston clips face the crown of the piston (away
from the crankcase). Rub a little 2 stroke oil around the inside of the cylinder. Remove the rag
you stuffed behind the piston and slide the cylinder all the way down to the crankcase, making
sure it is seated on the base gasket.

Place a new aluminum head gasket on top the cylinder and slide the head over the studs. Tighten
the four nuts snugly, tightening them down progressively (tighten nut 1 a bit, nut 2 a bit, nut 3 a
bit, nut 4 a bit, repeat). It may be a good idea to remove the nuts after they have been torqued
down all the way and slide the head off to double check the position of the head gasket - make
sure none of the gasket overlaps the cylinder bore. Replace the head and nuts and tighten them
down. It's a good idea to use the kick start lever to turn the engine over a few times at this point
to make sure that there's no binding or weird noises. Put back the shrouding, the carb, and the
exhaust. Replace the spark plug (make sure you're using the proper type - the new cylinder will
probably require a different plug than the stock cylinder) and ignition cable. Remember that you
will probably need to re-jet the carburetor, so take care of that and then be sure to check the
jetting is correct (section 3.7)

    3.6.    Larger carb and replacing the throttle cables                       Back to top

If you decide to swap on a 70cc engine kit, it is strongly recommended that you replace the stock
carburetor with a larger unit. Several of us have tried tuning the stock carb to work with a 70cc
kit, and several pistons have lost their lives in this pursuit. It simply is way too touchy. The
Dellorto 17mm carb have been used with success (note - you will need the optional electric
choke as the stock choke will not fit).

There are two steps to replacing the carb - replacing the carb itself and replacing the accelerator
cables. The carb is a very simple swap - drain the fuel from the carburetor bowl, remove the fuel,
oil, and vacuum lines from the carburetor (it's a good idea to stick a golf tee or some such in the
fuel line to keep the fuel from leaking out). Loosen the clam holding the carburetor to the intake
manifold and slide the carburetor out. Remove the throttle linkage. Open up the throttle assembly
(the right handgrip). Remove the throttle cables. Unscrew the brackets under the throttle
assembly that secure the throttle cables.

Now, we removed two cables, so we're gonna put two cables back. Cable 1 goes from the throttle
cable opening closest to the front of the bike to the carb, cable 2 goes from the throttle cable
opening closest to the seat and drop down the front shield (more on him later). Grab a Dremel
tool and a carbide bit - enlarge the holes that the throttle cables pass through just a bit - try to see
if the new cable's bracket fit flush against the bottom of the throttle housing.

Cable 1 has an elbow at the end. This screws into the top of the 17mm carb. The cable drops
down in to the carb and connects to the slide assembly. Run the cable the same as the original
double cable.

Cable 2 is a little different. Connect the bracket end of the cable to the throttle assembly. Take a
small pipe cutter / brake line cutter tool and cut through the outer rubber / metal sleeve, leaving
the wire in the middle uncut - make the cut about 2 feet or so from the throttle assembly. Cut
through the wire, leaving about a foot or so sticking out of the sleeve. This cable's job is to keep
you from turning the throttle backwards. Think about this - as you turn the throttle towards you,
the wire comes out further on cable 2. What you want to do is to put a little barrel clamp type
thing on the end of cable 2 such that when the throttle is closed, the clamp is just short of the
outer sleeve. This way, if you tried to turn the throttle backwards, the clamp will smack against
the sleeve and stop you. Make sense? Reassemble the throttle, and adjust the barrel clamp so that
the throttle will snap back smoothly and cannot be turned backwards.


    3.7.    Re-jetting the carb and reading plugs                               Back to top
First, If you're not well versed on how carburetors in work, especially motorcycle carbs, please
take a few minutes and read over the great Motorcycle Carb Theory 101 discussion at - it's a great primer on
the subject.

Now, you're probably looking to re-jet the carburetor because you've modified the exhaust
performed some other performance enhancement. Basically, you need to allow more gasoline
into the carb to compensate for the extra air that the engine will be inhaling. On a motorcycle /
scooter carb there are three ways to adjust the amount of fuel mixed with the air - the fuel / air
screw, the slide needle, and the main jet. If you've got a stock Vino and have swapped the
exhaust out, you will probably want to try the Yamaha Jog main jet (it's a #78 main jet, available
from Yamaha).

Setting the carburetor up is a three step process - you must first set the fuel/air screw, then the
clip position, and finally the main jet. The process is as such - you hold the throttle at a specified
position and travel a good couple of blocks (the more the better). Holding the throttle in its
position, kill the engine (don't release the throttle!) and coast to a stop. Remove the plug and
check the color of the plug.

1. Run at 1/8 throttle. Check plug. Should be brown - no white. Adjust fuel - air screw if needed.
If the screw is near the mouth of the carb, turning out will make the mix leaner. If the screw is
near the manifold, turning out will make the mix richer. On a Vino (stock carb), out = richer.
With a Dellorto 17mm carb, out = leaner.

2. Run at 1/2 throttle. Check plug. Adjust needle if needed. Raising the slide needle will richen
the mix between 1/8 and 1/2 throttle.

3. Run at full throttle. Check plug. Change the main jet if needed.

This said, one of the best indicator's I've found is your hearing. Pinging is the inevitable result of
running too lean - lean = hot, hot = ping. Pinging sounds like a BB rolling around in a coffee can
- a metallic 'ping' (duh!). If you ever hear any pinging, SHUT IT DOWN!!! Pinging will bust
your piston very quickly! Richen you mix and try again.

   3.8.     Performance variators and Kevlar belts                             Back to top

Kevlar belts have not been shown to be any stronger or more reliable than the stock Yamaha belt.

   3.9.     Replacement crankshafts                                            Back to top

   3.10.    Replacing the rear shock                                           Back to top
   3.11.    Replacement tires (by yofattim)                                    Back to top

Replacement Tires, Tire Replacement, Removal and least not forget Repair (or how I spent my
summer vacation)

REPLACEMENT TIRES                                                              Back to top

Tires, tires, tires! The right tires can improve braking and handling, add stability, increase ride
comfort, and support a heavier weight load. The question is which is the right tire for you? There
are a variety of tires available for the Vino, as all the major tire manufacturer maker scooter tires
in a variety of styles and sizes, so it depends on what you're looking for. There will probably be
"trade offs" - grips well/wears faster, looks good/bad in rain, taste great/less filling.. So think
about what you want. The cool white wall tire might not grip as well as a sportier performance
tire, but if you like the way it looks and don't mind sacrificing some traction then go for it.

Tires come in two types: TT (tube type), or TL (tubeless). A tube type tire uses a inner tube to
hold the air pressure inside of the tire. A tubeless tire uses the lip of the rim along with the bead
of the tire to form a airtight seal to hold the air pressure inside of the tire. It is possible to run
inner tubes in both TT and TL tires, but depending on the tire manufacturer it may not
recommend the use TT tires on a rim meant for TL tires even though you are using the inner
tubes with them. And never use a TL tire on a rim meant for a TT tire. The Vino comes with TL

Also tire size plays a factor. There are two types of tire sizing systems: numeric or metric. The
numeric system was used on older and "classic" scooters tires, and the euro-metric system is
used more so on modern day scooter tires.

Look at the sidewall of the tire. There will either be a number like this - 4x10 (numeric) or like
this 100/90-12 (metric). Understand the numeric system is easy: 4 x 10 the first number (4) is
the width of the tire in inches the second number (10) is the rim diameter in inches, therefore the
tire is 4 inches wide and fits on a 10 inch rim

The euro-metric system is more complicated to understand: 100/90-12 the first number (100) is
the width in millimeters the second number (90) is the aspect ratio (%) of height to width in
millimeters the third number (12) is the rim diameter in inches therefore the tire is 100mm wide,
the height is 90% of the width and fits on a 12 inch rim

The using the correct size is important because a tire that is taller or wider might not fit properly
and could rub or bottom out. Sometimes a taller tire might offer better cushioning while a wider
tire might provide more gripping area for cornering, but not always. Things like - tread design,
tread depth, sidewall thickness, rubber compound (durometer) all play a part in how a tire
handles, so it's important you know what you are looking.

The Vino comes with - 80/90-10 (metric sizing) TL (tubeless). f you want more traction, look for
a wider tire profile. If you want a smoother ride, look for a taller tire profile.
Known sizes that also fit:
Numeric - 2.50x10, 3.00x10 (recommended) and depending on tire manufacturer 3.50x10 might
fit as a rear tire.
Metric - 80/80-10, 90/90-10 (recommended), and depending on tire manufacturer 100/90-10 and
100/80-10 might fits as a rear tire.

Also be aware that most tires have a directional marking, load rating, and a speed rating. For a
better understanding of these things refer to:

Known scooter tire manufacturers:
Continental, Bridgestone, Michelin, Dunlop, Sawa, Carlisle, Cheng Shin, Kenda

Expect to pay somewhere around $20 - $50 per tire, more if you need to buy inner tubes for TT

Note: For rear tire sizes 3.00x10 and larger, it is a good idea to make one easy modification to
ensure that your tire doesn’t get chunks taken out of it if it bottoms out. If you look up under the
rear fender, right under the fuel tank, you’ll see a piece of metal that sticks down toward the rear
tire. Get some pliers, a crescent wrench or something similar and bend this metal lip toward the
front of the scooter. It only has to be bent enough so that your forward rotating rear tire will not
contact the edge of this lip, thereby taking a chunk of rubber out of your tire. An aftermarket
shock installed on the Vino may make this precaution unnecessary, but better safe than sorry.

TIRE REMOVAL                                                                  Back to top

Front Tire Removal:
Put scooter on center-stand - It will help if you can place something (a block of wood, a brick, a
big boring book) approximately 8-10" tall under the front of the scooter behind the front wheel to
help support the scooter when the front tire is removed.

Place two 14mm wrenches (or a wrench and a 14mm socket) on both ends of the front axle bolt.
On the left sided fork (when your sitting on it the side where your left hand goes) is the axle nut.
On the right-sided fork is the axle bolt. Remove the nut and slide the axle bolt towards the right
fork. Remove the axle bolt - watch out as the spacer, which is placed on the right fork (between
the inside of the fork and the wheel) will probably fall out at this point.

Slide the wheel/tire towards the scooter as you will be sliding the brake assembly off the brake
holder. Once off the holder you now can pull the brake assembly out of the brake drum and then
pull the wheel/tire forward and out of the scooter.

At this point if you did not support the front of the scooter, the front will fall down. The scooter
will not tip over, but the fork will rest on the ground.

To install the front tire reverse this process.

Rear Tire Removal:
Put scooter on center-stand.

Remove exhaust system (refer to exhaust section).

If you have access to an impact wrench - use it to remove the 22mm nut that hold the rear axle.

If you do not have access to an impact wrench, then use a ½ ratchet (or breaker bar) w/ 22mm
You will need to stop the rear wheel from spinning so hold the rear brake lever while removing
the rear axle nut.

Once the nut is off remove the wheel/tire. The rear axle is splined so you might need to "jiggle"
the tire with both hands to get it to slide off.

To install the rear tire reverse this process.

REPLACING A TIRE                                                               Back to top

If you do not know how to replace a bicycle tire DO NOT READ ANY FURTHER And take
your scooter or the wheel/tire to the nearest shop - I'M WARNING YOU NOW. Even if you
know how to change a bicycle tire, I would still recommend taking it to the nearest shop
(scooter, motorcycle, even an auto garage that has a decent tire machine). Removing the wheels
is simple enough and that will save you some money (on the labor end) if you just brought those
in to the shop. I can remove a tire and install a new one in about 1 minute using a tire machine.
Without one maybe 15 minutes with the proper tire levers and a lot of swearing.

But if you insist on doing it yourself, read on.

Remove the wheel/tire from the scooter (refer to above sections). Once the wheel is removed
release the air pressure. The best way is to remove the valve core from the valve stem using a
valve tool. If you do not have this tool, push the little thingy in the center of the stem until all
the air is gone.

Now you need to break the bead (the seal between the tire and the rim) on both sides. I can't even
describe this process, so I'll skip it.

Once the bead has been broken, lubricate the tire bead w/soapy water, as this will make the tire
slide off more easily. Using the proper tire levers or some nice dull foot long screwdrivers (does
that sound funny?) working your way around the rim a like you would a bicycle tire (see, you do
know how to change a bicycle tire!).

Once the tire is off, I'd check the rim to see if it's bent anywhere. It probably is. Now would be
the time to pound that ding out with a nice size hammer.

Before you put the new tire on, lubricate the bead with the soapy water, and reverse this process.
More info on replacing a tire:

If you have to pay to have a tire replaced, expect to pay $5 - $15 per tire if they are already off
the bike, more if they have to take them off.

REPAIRING A TIRE                                                               Back to top

Your tire will go flat due to two ways - a foreign object puncturing your tire or a bent/dinged

If it was a foreign object (nail, glass, thumbtack. etc) then the tire can be plugged, patched, or
tubed. If it was due to the big ass pothole you hit, then the bead needs to
be sealed.

You can plug the tire without removing it, but to patch it or to place an inner tube in it you will
have to remove the tire from the rim.

Plugging vs. Patching

Plugging the tire is easy enough, but due to the narrow width of the tire I'm not fully sold on this
method. Find and remove object (pull the nail out!). If you can not find the object, or it fell out
already, then place the tire (filled with air) under water and look to see where the air bubbles are
leaking from. THIS IS THE HOLE. Insert a reamer into the hole to slightly enlarge the hole and
to make sure the object is gone. Now using a tire plug (kits found at any automotive store), plug
the hole. Fill the tire back up to the proper tire pressure and now drop some soap water over the
plug to see if it bubbles. If it doesn't bubble, then the plug was a success. If it does bubble, it is
still leaking air - at this point you might want to place a tube inside the tire as the tire is too
narrow to try and plug again.

Patching the tire from the inside seems like a better option, but a lot more work to do. If you
know how to patch a bicycle tire you know how to do this.

Placing an inner tube in the tire is also another option if you're unsure of either of the above
methods. Again, this repair would be just like a bicycle tire.

Now if you have a slow leak due to a bent or dinged rim, the wheel will need to be removed, the
bead will need to be broken, but the tire will not have to be removed. Remove the wheel, let the
air out, break the bead, straighten the part of the rim that is bent with a hammer, use a bead
sealant and go around both sides of the bead. Fill with air, be happy.

I have plugged and patched tires and although both will work, personally I felt safer with the
patched tire over the plugged one. I also have sealed my rims due to numerous potholes.

If you have to pay to have a tire repaired, expect to pay anywhere from $5 to $25 depending on
which method is done.
    3.12. Upgraded brakes                                                     Back to top

At this time (8/14/02), there are no options available to Vino owners who want to upgrade their
braking system. The Japanese spec Vino does have front disc brakes, but the cost to swap over
all the parts would easily run several hundred dollars - new wheels, the rotor, new front fork,
new front shacks, and other parts would be required. The only option is to keep your brakes in
the best condition possible and adjust them regularly.


    4.1.    How do I change over to the Japanese style turn signals?          Back to top


    5.1.    Do I need a license to ride a Vino?                               Back to top

This varies state by state.

Maryland - Legally you do not need anything other than a regular automobile license so long as
it is restricted. Once it is de-restricted, you technically need motorcycle tags, insurance, and a
class "M" endorsement. In Baltimore City, currently all scooters are illegal unless registered as

    5.2.    How much did people pay for their Vinos?                          Back to top

    5.3.    Safety equipment                                                  Back to top

    5.4.    Insurance                                                          Back to top
In the United States, liability insurance can be had for as little as $50 a year, depending on
driving record. One company with this price is Progressive (

    5.5.    Security and locks                                              Back to top
One of the best locking systems you can get is the Kryptonite New York Chain with EV Disc
lock. This chain and lock is damn-near impenetrable and indestructible. It is made of triple-heat
treated Boron Manganese steel and is sized and shaped so conventional bolt cutters and pry-bars
can’t get any leverage to break the formidable links. The chain comes in a 3foot 3inch length
and a 5foot 6inch length. It is expensive, but for me the piece of mind is worth the money.
When locking the Vino, make sure to lock it through the rear wheel, preferably between the
variator cover and the shock. This makes it VERY difficult for a would-be thief to just remove
the rear wheel and take off with the rest of your Vino.
Many people use a motorcycle cover or even barbecue grill cover to make their Vinos less of a
target when parked overnight.

    5.6.    How do you remove stickers? (by MoochieCat)                         Back to top

Some people have been lucky enough to peel them off easily and in one piece, others have had
them break into little brittle pieces and ended up spending ridiculous amounts of time scraping.
Hopefully you'll be one of the lucky ones or at least land in the middle ground! It's best if you
can remove them soon after you purchase your scoot, so that they haven't 'set up' too much. What
follows is a series of techniques that people have tried and had success with.

-To start with, try using your fingernail to lift the corner of a sticker, and slowly, patiently pull it
off. If this works, GREAT! You are one of the chosen few and you have bragging rights.

If not:

-You might want to try leaving it out in the sun or take a regular hair drier to the sticker until it
becomes warm. Then, gently pull it up keeping the heat on it to keep it soft. Try not to use any
more heat than is necessary, as it starts to get pretty hot to handle.

-If it's being stubborn, you can use a credit card, or a plastic kitchen scraper to help it along. Take
your time, relax, enjoy the Zen of it all as you pick at your stickers.

To remove the gummy residue you have several options. (Do NOT use a thinner on it as it will
mess up the finish! )Recommended are WD-40, rubbing(isopropyl) alcohol, Bug and Tar
Remover, lighter fluid, or even a bit of motor oil. Oil seems to break down the glue harmlessly.
As well, you can use any one of these WHILE you are scraping, to loosen it up. Follow all this
with diluted dish soap wash and rinse well. Do a test run on an inconspicuous sticker (such as the
one on the left side that's half hidden by the seat, if you are concerned about what the residue
remover will do to your finish. All of the above were endorsed by Vino people in this group, but
being careful never hurt anyone.

    5.7.    Can I carry a passenger?                                            Back to top

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