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FOR THE
Love OF CHOCOLATE
BY MICHELE MORRIS
54 EDIBLE FRONT RANGE | WINTER 2009
different chocolates before they found a source for organic chocolate
T
ruffles, chocolate bark, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, pra-
lines, chocolate almond toffee—whatever your craving, that was up to their standards.
nothing tingles the taste buds or soothes the soul quite like
Moley believes making chocolate mirrors wine making in many ways.
chocolate. Fortunately, the Front Range is teeming with chocolatiers,
“Ingredient number one is someone who is the tastemaker, someone
all striving to bring consumers the freshest and tastiest chocolate
who has the skills to develop and retain flavor profiles. Number two
marvels. While some sell from small storefronts, others have landed
is some sense of what makes a good flavor, and three is pure dedi-
their products into retailers like Whole Foods, and nearly all sell their
cation to the task.”
products online.
Drawn to Chocolate A Chocolate Pioneer
The first step to making chocolate confections or candies is to ac-
For some, chocolate making runs in the family. Others discovered their
quire the base chocolate product, which is made from the cocoa
chocolate calling later in life. Regardless, a passion for chocolate is the
bean. And while most Front Range chocolatiers source their
number one ingredient for success in this business. Johan and Han De-
chocolate from large, global companies, one maverick is actually
vriese of Belvedere Chocolates are obsessed with chocolate. They
making his own chocolate base from the bean.
launched Belvedere in 1998, left their corporate jobs a couple of years
later and now produce over 800 different chocolate confections. Steve DeVries, of DeVries Chocolate, became a chocolate maker on a
whim. In 1999 while in Costa Rica studying Spanish he bought
Myron Lewis, whose father Richard Lewis founded Lewis Fine
some beans, brought them back to Colorado and began experi-
Candies in 1962, discovered that making chocolates offered him the
menting. When he launched his business shortly thereafter, he was
creativity he needed and the chance to work with his hands. He
the 12th largest chocolate maker in America—which also meant he
ditched his corporate job after only a few years, joined the world of
was the smallest, showing just how few people actually make
fine chocolate-making in 1996 and hasn’t looked back.
chocolate from the bean.
For Roberta Poirier of Roberta’s Chocolates, the colors and sheer
After discovering that many of these larger chocolate producers
artistic beauty of chocolate candies drew her in. She jokes that she
wouldn’t share knowledge about the industry, DeVries traveled to
began making chocolates commercially by accident 20 years ago—
cacao-producing countries like Mexico, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and
what started as a hobby quickly became a business when she realized
Venezuela, met growers and developed strong relationships as well as
her chocolates were in demand. Over the years, her entire family has
a unique business model that takes him to these countries during
been enlisted to help create, package and sell her products: 2,000 va-
harvest to dry his beans to his own specifications. DeVries feels so
rieties of chocolates and growing.
strongly about what he does that he started Craft Chocolate Makers
of America—their mission: to “coordinate with each other on issues
Recipe for Success such as cocoa supply, chocolate quality and technical solutions. Most
While passion may lead many to making chocolates, quality ingre- importantly, however, we have created the CCMA to promote and
dients sustain them, starting with the chocolate itself. Most of our protect American craft chocolate making and craft chocolate for
chocolatiers source their chocolate from well-known global brands future generations of enthusiasts.”
like Callebeaut, Merckens, Valrhona or Cocoa Barry. Many of these
mega chocolate makers have been in business for over 100 years, re- Today DeVries produces two 80-pound batches of chocolate a week
sulting in reliable quality and distribution systems. But dig a little in his Larimer Street factory—tiny, compared to the tons produced
deeper and you’ll discover the unwavering loyalty these chocolatiers by the big guys. He sells his chocolate bars and cocoa nibs to both
have to their sources. Timothy Moley of Chocolove in Boulder feels consumers and chocolatiers, both online and wholesale, and ac-
so strongly about his chocolate connection that he won’t even name cording to DeVries, usually to the “chocolate fanatics.” He explains
his source publicly. that a number of elements impact the taste of chocolate, and it all
starts with the bean. Genetics (criollo beans, originally from
Beyond quality chocolate you’ll discover that chocolatiers cite a wide Venezuela, have less bitterness and more fruity flavors, for example,
range of other ingredients for success—freshness, for one. At Belvedere than forastero beans that originated from the upper Amazon basin),
Chocolates, they make only small batches, weekly, using only the terroir, the fermentation and drying process, the roasting technique,
freshest of ingredients—even though that creates a bit of chaos during and the grind are all important to develop more flavors and less acid.
the holidays or near Valentine’s Day. In fact, freshness is a theme you’ll And getting the best beans doesn’t come cheap—DeVries spends as
hear repeatedly. As Myron Lewis says, “It’s my job to educate people on much as double the going world price to ensure he’s acquiring only
what high-quality, fresh chocolates should taste like.” the best.
Photo by Megan Newton
Chris Widlar, who started Concertos in Chocolate out of her
Boulder garage in 1999, believes all of her ingredients need to be the Good for You, Or Just Tastes Good?
best, and sources her dairy products from local provider Robinson Nobody touts the health benefits of eating chocolate more than Julie
Dairy. Rick Levine, co-owner of Seth Ellis Chocolatier in Boulder, Pech, author of The Chocolate Therapist: A User’s Guide to the Ex-
makers of artisanal organic chocolates, says they had to taste over 30 traordinary Health Benefits of Chocolate. Pech’s book suggests using
chocolate (pure dark chocolate, containing at least 50 percent cocoa
EDIBLE FRONT RANGE | WINTER 2009 55
REAL BELGIAN CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM TOPPING solids and preferably without any gooey, chewy fillings) to treat a
wide range of ailments, including allergies, cancer, depression, heart
disease, osteoporosis, PMS, and stress. But while dark chocolate is
Recipe by Johan and Han Devriese of Belvedere Chocolates
generally credited with health benefits, Roberta’s Chocolates finds
5 ounces (a generous ½ cup) dark chocolate, chopped that 74 percent of their clients still prefer milk chocolate.
2 tablespoons water Chris Widla believes people eat chocolate merely because it’s deli-
2 tablespoons sugar cious…and maybe they justify eating a bit more because of pro-
claimed health benefits. Perhaps Chocolove owner Timothy Moley
¼ cup whole milk
summed it up best: “People buy chocolate because they crave it, and
Put the chocolate and the water in a double boiler; heat and melt chocolatiers speak to that craving by making a chocolate that satisfies
slowly while stirring constantly. Add the sugar and milk and keep them. The research merely helps them feel better that chocolate isn’t
stirring until the milk and sugar are completely absorbed, but do bad for them.”
not let the mixture come to a boil! Pour the warm chocolate
topping over your ice cream and enjoy. Makes about 2 servings. Wondering yourself what to believe? Wait no more! Seek out the
Front Range chocolatiers today and, if nothing else, you’re in for a
real treat.
EUROPEAN-STYLE HOT CHOCOLATE
Michele Morris, owner of Cooking with Michele™, has a passion for
Recipe by Timothy Moley of Chocolove
teaching about local and seasonal food. She provides personalized
Combine 1 cup water and 1 Chocolove chocolate bar (3.2 ounces), culinary instruction for kids and adults.720-344-8173 or cooking-
chopped, in a small saucepan and bring to a boil while stirring. withmichele.com.
Pour into espresso-size cups and serve with a spoon. Makes 1–2
servings.
For the author’s Chocolate Tart with Hazelnut Crust,
go to ediblefrontrange.com
Terminology
Cacao—the cocoa plant that grows within the tropical belt
from 20° north of the equator to 20° south of the equator
Cocoa beans—the seeds inside the cacao tree pods used to
produce chocolate by fermenting and drying, roasting and
grinding the beans
Nibs—the roasted cocoa beans after the shells are removed
Chocolate liquor—the result of crushing the cocoa nibs and
melting the cocoa butter
Bittersweet chocolate—above 58 percent cocoa solids; con-
tains sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liquor and occasionally
vanilla
Dark chocolate (often used interchangeably with semi-sweet
chocolate)—up to 58 percent cocoa solids; contains sugar,
cocoa butter, cocoa liquor and usually vanilla
Milk chocolate—1 percent to 45 percent cocoa solids; con-
tains sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liquor, milk or milk powder,
vanilla
White chocolate—technically a confection because it contains
no cocoa liquor; made from sugar, cocoa butter, milk or milk
powder, vanilla
Labeling—percentage listed on most candy bars is the total
percentage of all cocoa solids, which includes cocoa butter,
and should not be confused with the true percentage of
cocoa beans in the bar
56 EDIBLE FRONT RANGE | WINTER 2009
0 Recipes
Chocolate Tart with Hazelnut Crust
Recipe by Michele Morris
Tart Shell
1 stick butter, softened
¾ cup sugar
2 large eggs, beaten
¼ cup hazelnuts, dry-roasted, skin removed and finely ground
2½ cups all-purpose flour
1 egg white, beaten
Filling
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup whole milk
10 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
2 tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs, room temperature, beaten
Tart Shell: Combine butter and sugar in a mixer and beat on low until smooth. Add the eggs one
at a time, mixing on low until combined. Add ground hazelnuts and mix until incorporated, then
add flour a little at a time until combined.
Remove dough, divide in two, and shape into disks. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least
one hour and up to 24 before using. Before rolling, remove 1 crust from refrigerate and bring to
room temperature for 20 minutes. Reserve remaining crust in the freezer for another use.
Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface into a 13-inch circle. Transfer to an 11-inch tart
pan with a removable bottom, making sure to press dough into the fluted edges of the pan. Trim
excess dough and discard. Place crust in refrigerator for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours (wrap in
plastic wrap if leaving more than 30 minutes).
Preheat oven to 350°. Place the tart pan on a cookie sheet, line crust with aluminum foil and pie
weights or dried beans. Bake for 30 minutes: remove beans and foil. Brush bottom of crust with
egg white. Return to oven and bake until the crust is just barely light golden brown, about 8 to 10
more minutes. Reduce oven to 325°.
Filling: Heat the cream and milk in a saucepan over medium heat until it just comes to a simmer.
Remove from the heat; add the chocolate, and stir until melted and smooth. Whisk in sugar and
salt until combined. Add the eggs, whisking to incorporate.
Pour filling into the pre-baked tart shell and bake until set and the surface is glossy, about 20
minutes. (Remove immediately if you see any cracks in the surface of the tart.) Cool completely
before cutting.
Makes 8 to 16 servings, depending on your sweet tooth.
Directory
Belvedere Chocolates Concertos in Chocolate Roberta’s Chocolates
Owners: Johan & Han Devriese Owner: Chris Widlar Owner: Roberta Poirier
Specializing in pralines and truffles Specializing in handmade and decorated Specializing in a wide variety of filled and
Available in full-service shops in Boulder, fresh truffles molded chocolates
Castle Rock, Denver and Glenwood Springs Available at Whole Foods or online Available in the retail store located at 4840
W. 29th Ave. in Denver and online (both
belvederechocolates.com concertosinchocolate.com
retail and wholesale)
303-663-2364 303-447-1001
info@BelvedereChocolates.com info@concertosinchocolate.com robertaschocolates.com
303-824-2069
inquiry@RobertasChocolates.com
Chocolove DeVries Chocolate
Owner: Timothy Moley Owner: Steve DeVries
Seth Ellis Chocolatier
Specializing in premium Belgian chocolate Specializing in Costa Rican and La
bars with a wide variety of flavors Domenica artisanal chocolate by the bar Owners: Rick and Neil Levine and David Lurie
Available in Whole Foods, Target, Wild Oats and nib products Specializing in artisanal chocolates made
or World Market, through online retailers Available online from organic and natural ingredients
and directly from Chocolove Available in Whole Foods, online at itsonly-
devrieschocolatestore.com
naturalgifts.com, and direct from Seth Ellis
chocolove.com 303-296-1661
for wholesale orders
303-786-7888 steve@devrieschocolate.com
timothy@chocolove.com sethellischocolatier.com
720-565-2462
Lewis Fine Candies hey@sethellischocolatier.com
Owner: Myron Lewis
Specializing in pecan turtles and butter
The Chocolate Therapist / Chocolates by
almond toffee
Mary Carol
Available in their Chocolate Factory Store at
6140 W. 38th Ave. in Wheat Ridge Owner: Julie Pech
and online Specializing in a healthy chocolate gifts,
books about chocolate and more
lewisfinecandies.com
303-421-0726 Available in retail shop at 2560 W. Main St.
myronlewis@comcast.net in Littleton or online
thechocolatetherapist.com
303 795-7913
julie@thechocolatetherapist.com
Cacao tree pod and cocoa beans.
Photo by Megan Newton
EDIBLE FRONT RANGE | WINTER 2009 57
