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PRODEW 500 The New Amino Acid Blend for Hair Care

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PRODEW 500 The New Amino Acid Blend for Hair Care Powered By Docstoc
					Innovation Seminars Presentation
in-cosmetics 2007, Paris




                          PRODEW® 500
    - The New Amino Acid Blend for Hair Care
                                   April 17th, 2007
Introduction
                        Skin, Hair and Amino Acids
                                                                    NH3,Uric acid, Others
                                                                    Glucosamine,
                                                                       Creatinine
    The Stratum                                                      Na, K, Ca,
                                                                                                  Amino
       Corneum                                                       Mg, PO4,
                                                                     Cl                           acids

                        Keratinocyte                Intercellular             Urea
                                                    Lipid Layer
                                                                                  Lactate
                                                                                                PCA

             Medulla                      Cuticle       Cell
                                                        Membrane
              Cortex                                    Complex
                                                                                         ?
                                      Cortical/Cuticle Cells
   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                                         2
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                                         AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Introduction
                               Hair and Amino Acids

       Amino acids provided externally are
       known to interact with the hair to give
       various cosmetic effects, i.e. moisturizing,
       strengthening structure, and color-
       protect.



   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                    3
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                    AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW®
                                     PRODEW® 500
       PRODEW® 500 is amino acids cocktail,
       designed for the efficient application of PCA
       and amino acids in hair care preparation.
                      Components           Concentration
                      Sodium PCA and PCA       19
                      Arginine                  7
                      Amino Acids Mix           7
                      Sodium Lactate           12
                      Aspartic Acid             4
                      Water                    50
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                   4
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                   AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW®
               PRODEW® 500 -Characteristics

      A total of 18% of high quality amino acids are
      blended.

      The premix solution of 11 kinds of amino acids
      …easy to handle.

      Almost odorless and colorless

  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                            5
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris            AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
                                   Outline

  – Designing PRODEW®500 -1: PCA and Arginine
           • Interaction between PCA, Arginine and Hair
           • Color Protection by PCA
  – Designing PRODEW®500 -2: Amino Acids Mixture
           • Amino Acids Mix and Cell Membrane Complex
           • Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW®500
  – Application of PRODEW®500
  – Summary


Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                     6
in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                     AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW®
                       Designing PRODEW® 500



      Components                     Concentration
      Sodium PCA and PCA                 20
                                                          Part 1
      Arginine                            7
      Amino Acids Mix                      7              Part 2
      Sodium Lactate                      12
      Aspartic Acid                        4
      Water                               50

  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                     7
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                     AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Designing PRODEW® 500 – Part 1
        PCA and Arginine
PCA & Arginine

                 Sodium PCA (AJIDEW® NL-50)

      PCA is derived from L-Glutamic acid in the skin.
      Sodium PCA for hair care
        Moisturizing
        Conditioning
        Color protect



                                     O            COO- Na+
                                         N
                                         H
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                   9
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                   AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine

           Uptake of PCA –the pH Dependence

      Interaction of PCA and hair is relatively weak at pH
      range between 4 and 7.

                              20                            PCA            PCA •|
            PCA (mg/g-hair)




                                                           COOH                     COO-
                              15
                                                            •}                       •|
                                                          pH 3                      pH 6
                              10


                              5


                              0
                                   1   3   5    7                  9
                                           pH
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                         10
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                          AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine

                  Arginine has Strong Affinity for Hair
       Arginine bears cationic charge below pK2=9.0, so has
       strong affinity for hair at pH over about 4.
    Arginine Recovery




                        50
      (mmol/g-hair)




                        40

                        30
                                                                                  Removed by
                        20                                                        acidic buffer
                                                                                  solution
    Affinity to acidic groups
           10
                                                L-Arg •{
    on hair surface                                                        Removed by water
                        0                    COOH    COO-
                             3.2            4.3 •}    5.3
                                                       •|        7.2
                                     pH               Solution
                                          of Arginine pH 6
                                             pH 3

  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                                11
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                                  AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine
                 Use of Arginine as an “Anchor”

      By combination with Arginine the uptake of
      PCA is enhanced.
                                                          L-PCA 5wt%, pH 7.2
                                                          N=3, mean ± S.D.
                                          4.0
                        PCA (mg/g-hair)




                                          3.0

                                          2.0

                                          1.0

                                          0.0
                                                PCA-Arg      PCA-Na


  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                              12
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                                AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine

                        Sodium PCA for Hair Care

                                     • Moisturizing
                                     • Conditioning
                                     • Color protect



                                      O                COO- Na+
                                             N
                                             H
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                      13
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                        AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine
         Effects of Sodium PCA for Oxidative Coloring
     Test Formulations
   Hair Conditioner                               Hair Shampoo
 Cetrimonium Choloride                  2.5     Na Laureth Sulfate                     7.56
 Ceteareth-20                           0.5     Cocamidopropyl betaine                 1.20
 Cetyl alcohol                          4.0     Pearlizing agent                       4.00
 Methylpraben                           0.2
 Citric acid                                    Preservatives                           q.s
                                      pH 3.0
 Water                                balance   NaCl                                   2.00
 Total                                 100.0    Citric acid                           pH 5.8
                                                Water                                 balance
       Amodimethicone                           Total                                 100.00
         PCA-Na 2%
  PCA-Na 2% + Arginine 0.4%
   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                             14
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                               AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine

   Effects of Sodium PCA for Oxidative Coloring
        Test Design



                   Dye                            Post-dye                              Shampoo x 3
  White         treatment       a*               conditioner   a*   after treatment    Conditioner x 1        a*
                                       initial                                                                     after wash
 Yak Hair                                         treatment
                                                                                        X 6 -12 cycles




                                                                        ∆a*

    Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                                                  15
    in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                                                   AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine

  Effects of Sodium PCA for Oxidative Coloring

    – Hair Dye: red shade, the emulsion formula.
    – Dye precursors and direct dyes
            • Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 2-Methylresorcinol, 4-
              amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-
              Amino-m-cresol.
            • Developer: 9% Hydrogen peroxide.
    – Prior to use the two components are mixed 1:1
      (w/w).
    – The pH of this mixture is approximately 10.3.

  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                   16
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                     AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PCA & Arginine

      Sodium PCA Improves Hair Color Shade

    After 12 wash


   Vivid          15
                            Post-dye treatment    6 wash               12 wash
                  10

                   5
           ∆ a*




                   0

                   -5
                                                               N=3, mean ± S.D.
                  -10
                           Control     PCA-Na     PCA-Na 1%            Amodimethicone
                                         2%      Arginine 0.4%
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                          17
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                            AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Designing PRODEW® 500 -2:
Amino Acids Mix in PRODEW® 500
Amino Acids Mix
                Composition of Amino Acids Mix
      The composition of Amino Acids Mix is modeled after
      the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell
      Membrane Complex (CMC).

                                                     Asp Glu          Thr
                                                     Ser Pro          Tyr
                                                     Gly Ala          Leu
                                                     Val Ile          Phe
                                                     His Lys          Arg



   Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC*                            Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW® 500
                            *Cys and Met are excluded.   J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 25, 355,(1974)
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                                                               19
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                                                       AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Amino Acids Mix
                          Cell Membrane Complex

      Intercellular cement for cuticle and cortex
      Non-keratinous region

      Continuous structure from surface to inside
                                         Similar composition
      Responsible for swelling of hair  …easier to penetrate ?


      Target of alkali, oxidant, and reductant
                                            Likely to be lost
      Destroyed by 10 - 20% extension – cuticlereplenish !
                                            …then
      decementation
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                              20
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Amino Acids Mix
   Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW® 500

      PRODEW® 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair.
                    Gloss Index (%)




                                      40
                                      30
                                      20
                                                                                   N=3, mean ± S.D.
                                      10
                                            0%        2%             5%
                                                 PRODEW® 500
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                                   21
                   0%
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                 2%    5%            AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Amino Acids Mix
                Goniophotometric Measurement
                                         Diffusional
                                       (Background)


                                      30•‹

                                             Specular
                                             (Luster)

                                         Internal
           Hair                          (Color)
                           Detector
  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                            22
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                              AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Amino Acids Mix
                         Determination of Gloss Index*
                                                                                   AS
                                                                 Gloss Index =
                                                                               (AS + AD )
                                      Specular reflection

                                                    Internal
 Intensity




                                                    reflection

                                 AS                       Diffusional reflection

                                            AD

                                                                                               F.–J. Wortmann et. al.,
                                            Angle                                        J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 81•i 2004•j

         Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                                       23
         in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                                      AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW®
                                     PRODEW® 500

        Specially designed for hair care
                       Components           Concentration
                       Sodium PCA and PCA       20
                       Arginine                  7
                       Amino Acids Mix               7
                       Sodium Lactate               12
                       Aspartic Acid                 4
                       Water                        50


  Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                  24
  in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                    AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Applications of PRODEW® 500
Applications
                       Recommended Applications

       Hair shampoos
       Hair conditioners
       Post-dye conditioners for pH control
       Hair masks
       Hair sprays
       Hair styling gels
       ….



   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                            26
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris              AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Applications
                      Hair Shampoo for Dyed Hair
         ASUL-4025                                        (wt •“ )
               A      AMILITE ACS-12 (30%)                  22.0
                      Lauramidopropyl Hydroxysulatine       18.0
                      Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate         3.0
                      Cocamide MEA                           1.0
                      Polyquaternium-7                       5.0
                      PRODEW 500 (50%)                       5.0
                      Glycol Distearate                      1.0
                      Preservatives                         q.s.
                      Water                             balance
               B      Fragrance                             q.s.        pH 5.8
               C      Citric Acid                           q.s.        4,500-6,000mPa·s
                                                           100.0


   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                           27
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                             AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Applications
                                      Hair Conditioner
         AHCP-3                                            (wt%)
         A      Cetrimonium Chloride (30%)                    8.3
                Glycerin                                      2.0
                Preservative                                 q.s.
                Water                                    balance
         B      Steareth-20                                   0.5
                Cetyl Alcohol                                 6.0
                Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil        1.0
         C      PRODEW 500 (50%)                              2.0
                Citric Acid                                  q.s.
                Water                                       10.0           pH 4.0
         D      Fragrance                                    q.s.          5,000mPa·s
                                                           100.0


   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                            28
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                              AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Applications
                         Leave-on Hair Conditioner
          ALTP-03                                                 (wt%)
      A Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer               0.40
        Water                                                     39.60
      B Arginine                                                   0.37
        Water                                                     19.63
      C Butylene Glycol                                            3.00
        PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil                             0.20
        PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate             0.20
        ELDEW PS-203                                               0.05
        ELDEW SL-205                                               0.20
      D Dimethicone and Laureth-4 and Laureth-23                   5.00
      E Preservative                                                q.s.
        Alcohol                                                   10.00
        Fragrance                                                   q.s.
      F PRODEW 500(50%)                                            1.00
      G Disodium EDTA                                              0.02
        Water                                                   balance        pH 5.5
                                                                 100.00        2,000mPa·s
   Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                        29
   in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                          AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
                                   Summary

    PRODEW® 500 is the amino acids blend, designed for the
    efficient application of PCA and amino acids in hair care
    preparation.
    The combination of PCA-Na and Arginine enhances the uptake
    of PCA to provide various effects, i. e. moisturizing,
    conditioning, and color-protect.
    The amino acids mix of PRODEW® 500 modeled after the
    constituent amino acids of protein in Cell Membrane Complex
    (CMC).
    PRODEW® 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair.


Innovation Seminars Presentation                                                   30
in-cosmetics 2007, Paris                     AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
              Amino Acids…
                   AJINOMOTO,
Where Amino Acids are the essence of our Personal Care
Thank You !

				
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Description: PRODEW 500 - The New Amino Acid Blend for Hair Care