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MP Cycle Design

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MP Cycle Design Powered By Docstoc
					                                        Paul Sas
                                     P.O. Box 2392
                                San Marcos, Ca 92079
                               paulsassandiego@aol.com
                                     858-232-8187



Installation is easier than it appears in these instructions – make sure you read all
instructions and understand them - “before” - proceeding with installation. Please
contact MP Cycle Design if you have any questions.

Attention – tinting will take 3 – 4 weeks to totally cure – all the clouding and air
pockets WILL go away…




Install the brace! The brace minimizes flex, which improves shield
performance and insures high-speed stability. MP Cycle Design is not
responsible for injury resulting from the operator exceeding legally
posted speed limits, which result in accident, injury and or malfunction
of the windscreen. MP Cycle Design is not responsible for injury due to
the operator not wearing a DOT approved helmet with impact resistant
eye protection while operating the motorcycle. Always wear eye, head
and body protection whenever operating a motorcycle and ride within
the posted speed limits. MP Cycle Design strongly promotes certified
motorcycle training courses.
                       Cleaning Instructions - IMPORTANT

DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS (paper towels, newspaper, ect) – use damp soft
clothe for cleaning. The use of any other type of plastic polish is fine – as long as
you use a soft cloth to apply and buff. With proper cleaning – the shield should last
a good long time. You will probably never need to replace this shield…Cleaning the
bottom of the screen is easier if you loosen the 2 screws on top and remove the
bottom screw. The screen will tip back allowing easy access to the bottom of the
screen without having to remove it completely.




                                        Important
Included in the packet are 2 clear plastic bumper stops – and/or – 2 EA 3M tint Gel
tabs. Depending on how your screen is positioned – it is likely that the screen will come
in contact with the outer edges of the fairing. Position the 2 bumper stops as pictured. It
is desirable that the outer edges of the screen come in contact with these bumper stops as
it is another contact point that will help keep the screen rigid. Without these bumpers –
the screen will rub against the fairing and scratch it. MP is not responsible for damage
occurring to the fairing if these bumper guards are not in place.


                                      Installation
      Before disassembling – notice that the aluminum brace, spacers and screw caps
       are already in place exactly how it will be on your Vstrom.
      Notice that the shield has black caps on the front side. Do not install screws
       without the plastic caps.
      Disassemble – remove the aluminum brace from the shield.
                         Remove existing windscreen
   Put your Vstrom on the center stand or use a shop support brace so that your
    motorcycle is secure off the side stand.
   Remove the old/current shield from your Vstrom. Check the fit of your new
    screen before you start cutting. Insert the brace and re-insert the original Vstrom
    screws.




   At this point (before you start cutting) – install the screen by attaching the screen
    to the top brace – DO NOT RIDE WITHOUT THE BOTTOM BRACE IN
    PLACE. This is just a spot check to make sure you like the fit and finish. Look
    at your screen from all angles. If you do not like the current look or fit – don’t
    go any further – it won’t get better after you start cutting. Return the screen
    in the same box and packing for a full refund.
   If the fit is satisfactory – remove the screen and the aluminum brace and follow
    the instructions to cut the slit for the bottom stainless brace.
   In order to attach the bottom stainless brace to the instrument panel sub-frame–
    you must first remove the instrument cowling and cut a small slit in the flat
    section of the headlight cowling. (The instrument cowling is the black plastic
    piece around your instrument panel that looks like a toilet seat).
   Remove the 2 round set pins on either side of your instrument panel by pushing
    the round center pin in (do not push the pin in further than the first indent).
    Remove the set pins. Remove the 2 allen screws on the opposite end of the
    cowling (just behind the handlebars). Remove the 2 set pins in the small plastic
    piece and remove the small plastic spacer panel exposing the ends of the cowling
    (Important note – you may be tempted to remove the headlight cowling to get a
    better view of the back of the speedometer when installing the front bracket –
    YOU WILL BE WASTING YOUR TIME – you cannot install the bracket with
    the headlight cowling removed).
   The instrument cowling can be removed without removing your stock handlebars.
    If you have after market handlebars that are lower than stock – you may need to
    remove the bars from the triple clamps before you remove the cowling.
   Pull the cowling away from the instrument panel. There are to plastic nipples on
    either side of the cowling that are connected to grommets in the fairing side
    panels. Pull the cowling away from the instrument panel to gently pull the
    nipples out of the rubber grommets. Take your time…
   A small slit must be cut in the headlight cowling as illustrated to allow the
    aluminum brace to be installed securely to the instrument panel sub-frame:




   Measure 6 1/8” (15.5 cm) from the drain hole located in the tip of the windscreen
    insert slot. Mark a ¾” (2 cm) line on the flat center section of the cowling – 6
    1/8” from the small drain hole. Cut the hole approximately 1” wide by ¼”
    (.65cm) high (a little larger than the dimensions of the aluminum brace (you may
    want to use tape as your guide as illustrated below). Start the slit by drilling a ¼”
    in hole with a drill on both ends of the flat panel. You can use a piece of metal as
    a guide to elongate the slit up to 1” – stay in the center of the flat section – as
    illustrated in the picture above. A dremel is the perfect tool for this operation but
    a drill and drill bit will also work. You can clean up and straighten any
    imperfections using small files. Take your time – the plastic is easy to cut –
    which also makes it easy to cut crooked.
   It is more important to fabricate the hole straight – than keep to a strict hole (slit)
    measurement.

   After cutting the hole – you will see the 8mm instrument cluster bolt that needs to
    be removed as explained in the next section.

   The instrument cluster cowling must be removed to get access to the instrument
    sub-frame. You will only need to remove the instrument cowling to install the
    brace as illustrated. The headlight fairing was removed in the picture below to
    illustrate how the brace is attached to the instrument cluster sub-frame (note:
    sorry, in the next picture – the bracket is turned the WRONG WAY – make
    sure the bracket end is pointing down as illustrated in other pictures above).
   The instrument cluster is held in place at the top with one 8mm nut. Reach under
    and behind the instrument cluster and locate the 8mm nut. If your handlebars do
    not allow easy access – remove the handlebars from the triple clamps. Once you
    have located the nut – use an 8mm wrench to loosen and remove. Once removed
    – you can pull the instrument cluster away from the sub-frame by pulling it
    towards the seat and pulling the instrument cluster nipples from the rubber
    grommets located on the bottom of the instrument cluster (as in the picture
    above). Remove the rubber grommet at the top of the instrument cluster where
    you removed the instrument cluster nut. Cut the rubber grommet in half – and put
    one half of the rubber grommet back on the instrument cluster set-post. This will
    allow the aluminum brace to lie flat against the sub-frame and insure proper line-
    up with the bottom hole in the windshield.
   IMPORTANT - Install the small black nose piece in the tip of the fairing
    before installing the L-shaped stainless brace.




   Once the instrument cluster is disconnected from the rubber grommets – a long
    slot in the sub-frame will be accessible at the bottom of the instrument cluster
    sub-frame.
   Slip the straight portion of the stainless brace through the slit in the fairing. Insert
    the large bolt; lock washer and washer into the slot and through the brace. Install
    the nut; lock washer and washer on the large bolt – tighten making sure the brace
    hole just above is lined up with the instrument sub-frame hole.
   Reinstall the instrument cluster. Reinstall the top 8mm nut – and tighten.
      Before installing the instrument cluster housing (toilet seat) – replace the
       OEM rubber well nut (used to tighten your windshield) with the 6MM speed
       nut illustrated in the picture above. Install the instrument cluster housing
       (toilet seat).
      Install the long aluminum brace and use the stainless 6MM screw with plastic cap
       as illustrated. Do not tighten the screws until you insert the windscreen and make
       sure that all holes in the windscreen line up with the holes in the front and rear
       braces. If everything lines up – tighten brace screws
      Install the windscreen and tighten the 3 windscreen screws with screw caps.
      Make sure you install the rubber spacers between the screen and the rubber
       grommet nuts.
      After tightening all the screws and bolts – give the top of the shield a tug in both
       directions – the shield should have minimum flex and should not disconnect. If
       the shield disconnects – contact MP Cycle Design before continuing.
      If the screen is stable as described – take your bike for a spin and rest assured you
       will return with a smile on your face…
      One additional adjustment – if you would like to place the screen in a more
       horizontal or vertical position – additional spacers can be added or removed from
       the front or back brace. In general – a more horizontal screen position will
       increase air flow cutting down on buffeting – but it will also increase noise. A
       more vertical position will bring the shield away from the rider – decreasing air
       flow and noise – but will most likely increase buffeting slightly. Play with this
       adjustment to get the best results for the type of riding you prefer.

                                       Return/Warranty
If at any time within the first 90 days (beginning with the date it is delivered to your
door) you are not totally satisfied - for any reason - return the screen in as-new condition
in the original box and packaging material for a full refund – no questions asked. If
either screen cracks or chips under normal operating conditions – it will be replaced free
of charge.

				
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posted:3/12/2010
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