North Yorkshire

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                                                                                                                                       April 2009

Romantic ruins, mysterious moorland and hardly a supermarket in sight, this is the
English countryside at its nostalgic best
                                              • TransPennine Express (     By train
   South Yorkshire is still, rather           manchester piccadilly, 1hr 30mins.               Two railway lines connect at Grosmont:
   unfairly, associated with austere                                                           • Esk Valley Railway runs between
   19th century industrial cities and         By coach                                         middlesbrough and Whitby
   dark satanic mills, but head north         Direct coach services to York                    (
   and you will soon find yourself in a       • national Express (   • north yorkshire moors Railway runs steam
   green and pleasant land of                 London Victoria, 5hrs; Edinburgh 5hrs 40mins,    trains between pickering and Whitby
   chocolate box villages and more            Glasgow 7hrs, manchester 3hrs 20 mins.           (
   ruined castles and abbeys than
   you can shake a stick at.                  GETTING AROUND                                   Local bus and train services
      North Yorkshire is easy to get                                                           By bus
   around and the most rewarding              North York Moors                                 • north york travel information
   way to visit its medieval sights and       BICYCLE hIrE oUtLEtS INCLUDE:                    (
   diverse landscape is a tour by car         n Rosedale Abbey                                 • direct bus services link york with helmsley,
   or bike. A web of quiet roads that         Abbey Bike Hire                                  malton, pickering, Ripon, thirsk and Whitby for
   weaves through moor and dale to            Tel 01751 417475                                 Richmond take a bus to northallerton and
   link ancient villages and towns is a                          change bus to Richmond.
   joy to negotiate. Awaiting                                                                  By train
   discovery are medieval cathedrals,         n Low Dalby (near pickering)                     • york-thirsk-northallerton via Grand Central
   Norman castles, inspired                   Purple Mountain Bike Centre                      trains (
   museums, a sprinkling of top-notch         Tel 01751 460011                                 • national Express East Coast line
   hotels and restaurants, and, never                         (

                                                                                                                                                    WorDS pAuL bLACKmAn photogrAphY photoLibRARy thiS fACtfiLE WAS CompiLEd in mARCh 2009
   far from town or village, the
   remains of the great abbeys.               n hawsker (near Whitby)                          WHAT TO DO AND SEE
                                              01947 820207                                     York
GETTING THERE                                                      n the York pass
By train                                      CAr hIrE FroM YorK                               pays for 30 attractions.
Direct train services to York                 n Comparison websites:                           Cost £28
• Grand Central Trains              
(                                   n York Minster
London Kings Cross, 2hrs                                                             
• National Express East Coast Line            By bus                                           highlights include the undercroft and crypt
(            moorsbus linking many towns and villages         to view the ruined Roman basilica (Ad 312),
London Kings Cross, 2hrs,                     runs from 27 July to 5 September                 and the toad-and-demon encrusted norman
Edinburgh Waverly 2hrs, 30mins and Aberdeen   (             doom stone. the 12th-century Chapterhouse
Guild Street, 5hrs.                                                                            has 284 tiny sculptures composed of gargoyles

                                 For the full magazine report on North Yorkshire,
                                see p40 of the April 2009 issue of Which? holiday
and a jungle of animal life amid a honeycomb         n Whitby Abbey                                         n the Norman castle
wall frieze.                                                       
Open 9am-5pm mon-Sat (9.30am nov-mar),               the benedictine Abbey was originally founded           the tudor house within the castle was converted
Sun 12noon-3.45pm                                    in 657 the Saxon first abbey was deserted after        from the original medieval structure. inside is a
Admission £6 minster, £4 undercroft, treasury        a Viking attack in 867. What remains today is the      small exhibition of local archaeological finds from
and Crypt, tower £4 (£9.50 do Everything ticket)     second norman building that dates back to 1078.        the the civil war (1642-1651).
                                                     Open 21 march-31 Sept daily, 10am-6pm,                 Open 10am-6pm 21 mar-30 September,
n York Castle Museum of Everyday Life                1 oct-31 march, 10am-4pm. Closed tues & Wed            10am-5pm 1-31 oct, 10am-4pm 1 nov-31 mar                          Admission £4.90                                        Admission £4
A one-way system takes you on an English
journey through the 19th and 20th centuries.         n Whitby Museum                                        n rievaulx Abbey
house interiors representing working to upper                      
class tastes, prison cells, shops and even a         Among the 77,238 eclectic exhibits are marine          founded in 1132 by 12 Cistercian monks from
reproduction cobbled Victorian street-with           fossils, such as the ichthyosaurus, or fish-lizards,   Clairvaux in burgundy, Rievaulx was the first
sound effects are skilfully exhibited.               along with the Captain Cook collection of South        Cistercian Abbey in north England. the roofless
Open 9.30am-5pm daily                                Seas’ artefacts.                                       shell of the lofty church and refectory remain
Admission £7.50                                      Open 9.30am-4.30pm tues-Sun                            largely intact and there are enough broken
                                                     Admission £3                                           remains of other buildings to be able to piece
n the treasurer’s house                                                                                     the complex together. uk/main/                      PickeriNg                                              Open 10am-6pm 21 mar-30 September,
w-treasurershouseyork                                this small bustling market town has a confusion        10am-5pm 1-31 oct, 10am-4pm 1 nov-31 mar
Victorian eccentric frank Green’s wonderful          of narrow streets that wind steeply up from the        Admission £4.90
antique furniture collection housed in a             river to the ruined castle.
17th- century mansion.                                                                                      huttoN-Le-hoLe
Open 15 mar-3 nov 11am-4.30pm,                       n the Norman castle                                    it’s impossible not to be beguiled by this
3 nov-30 nov 11am-3pm                                                  moorland village.
Admission house and garden £5.80                     With its peripheral towers and high walls
                                                     surrounding a central tower keep, the archetypal       n rydale Folk Museum
n ghost cellar tours                                 norman castle is the image portrayed in many a
harry martindale’s 1950s ghostly encounter           school history book.                                   Local houses, some dating back 500 years,
Three tours daily 11.20am-3.45pm daily,              Open 10am-6pm summer, 10am-4pm winter                  were dismantled and reassembled on the
closed friday                                        Admission £3.50                                        museum site.
Admission ghost cellar £2.30                                                                                Open 10am-5.30pm daily, 10am-dusk late
                                                     n Church of St peter & St paul                         oct-mid march. Closed 7 dec-16 Jan
n National railway Museum                                                         the norman church retains some of the most             DaNBY
Among the exhibits are scores of old puffers,        impressive medieval church frescos in England.         high up in the northern part of the moors danby
plush ancient royal coaches, the Mallard (the        Open 9am-5pm                                           is surrounded by perfect walking country.
fastest ever steam locomotive) and the giant         Admission free
Chinese locomotive.                                                                                         n the Moors Centre
Open 10am-6pm daily                                  n North Yorkshire Moors railway              
Admission free                                                                      the moors Centre provides advice on trails
                                                     Steam trains run a frequent service between            and wildlife.
n Jorvic Viking Centre                               pickering, Grosmont and Whitby.                        Open 10.30am-3.30pm                       Day rover ticket £20                                   Admission free
take a ride through york’s Viking past in
this excellent museum run by the york                n Beck Isle Museum                                     thirsk
Archaeological trust.                                                     Visit thirsk and step back into the early 1960s.
Open 10am-5pm daily summer;                          the museum outlines the history of rural life          in the rather down at heal town centre there
10am-4pm daily winter                                in Ryedale.                                            is an abundance of everyday independent stores,
Admission £8.50                                      Open 10am-5pm march 15-oct 31 daily                    from butchers and bakers to grocers and
                                                     Admission £4                                           haberdashers.
n Brewery tour                                   n Castle howard                                        n World of James herriot Museum
Sup a pint of yorkshire ale after a fascinating                       
short tour of the micro brewery                      midway between pickering and york and set              herriott devotees can still enjoy his world in a
Tours mon-Sat (Sun open may-Sept only)               in glorious parkland the 18th-century Castle           series of exhibitions that focuses on the story of
12.30pm, 2pm, 3.30pm, 5pm                            howard craves attention.                               vet and author Alf Wight (alias James herriot).
Admission £6 (includes pint of beer)                 Open 11am-4pm                                          Open 11am-5pm 1 April-31 oct, 11am-4pm
                                                     Admission house & gardens £11                          1 nov-31 mar
WhitBY                                                                                                      Admission £5.50
Set across two steep hills, on the dinosaur coast,   heLMsLeY
this handsome medieval and Georgian town             nestling beneath its norman castle helmsley is a       n Byland Abbey
has been a popular holiday resort since the          smart market town with coaching inns, sited  
19th century.                                        prettily around the cobbled market square.             Within a cluster of four pretty villages, byland
Abbey is around seven miles south of helmsley         n ripon Museums                                    MaLtoN
and thirsk. the once great 12th-century                                  n The Old Lodge (near Castle Howard)
Cistercian monastery is something of a b-list ruin,   n the Workhouse Museum                             Tel 01653 690570
but it retains a swathe of rare geometrically         the town’s workhouse, which closed as late as
designed floor ties in the south transept.            1950, is now a museum that takes the visitor       this castellated tudor gate house that once
Open 11am-6 pm, 1 April-30 June Wed-Sun.              through a harrowing pre-welfare state past.        provided a stately entrance to a castle took
1 July 31 Aug mon-Sun, 1-30 Sept Wed-Sun              Open 1pm-4pm (11am-4pm school holidays)            on its hotel mantle in 1996. Just outside town,
Admission £3.50                                       Admission £2.50                                    the mansion is set in trim grounds. the interior
                                                      Admission to all three museums £6                  is all oak panelling and moulded stucco the
n Mount grace                                         n the police Museum                                lounge and snug dining room are decked out                           police and prison history is explained from        with understated modern furniture. bedrooms
off the A19, between thirsk and Richmond, is the      the 14th to the 20th centuries.                    are huge with a blend of antique furnishings.
remains of a Carthusian priory. founded in 1398,      Open 1pm-4pm (11am-4pm school holidays)            Price £110
mount Grace was the last of the great yorkshire       Admission £3.50                                    Rooms 21
abbeys. one of the monk’s cottages has been           n the Courthouse Museum                            Disabled access 1 groundfloor room
sensitively reconstructed to reflect the monks’       take a seat in the old Victorian courtroom for
living conditions and lifestyle.                      a 10-minute audio-visual presentation of a         PickeriNg
Open 10am-6pm daily 21 mar-30 September,              past case.                                         n The White Swan Inn
10am-4pm daily 1-oct-31 mar                           Open 1pm-4pm (11am-4pm school holidays)            Tel 01751 472288
Admission £3.90                                       Admission £1.50                          
                                                                                                         this family run former 16th-century coaching inn
richMoND                                              n ripon Cathedral                                  is perfectly positioned in the town centre. the
bordering the dales national park, Richmond                           traditional snug bar is well-stocked with locals
is a delight. this smart and vibrant Georgian         the 12th-century cathedral was built over a        enjoying a natter over a pint or, for a quieter more
town lies within a natural amphitheatre on the        seventh-century Saxon church. the church’s         contemplative sup take your drink to a sofa in the
edge of the precipitous Swale Valley.                 tiny crypt can be walked through and a tiny gold   adjoining sitting room. the two dining rooms in
                                                      medallion, the Ripon Jewel, from the same period   the excellent restaurant (see ‘Good places to
n the Norman castle                                   is on display in the treasury. beneath the choir   eat’), are both classically furnished. Rooms                           misericords is a wonderful collection of weird     furnished in contemporary and traditional styles.
the great tower is undamaged and the keep             medieval carvings.                                 Price £145
below remains in good condition in this               Open 8.30am-6.30pm daily                           Rooms 21
well-preserved castle.                                Admission free                                     Disabled access groundfloor rooms
Open 10am-6pm daily 21 mar-30 September,
10am-4pm daily 1-oct-31 mar                           n Fountains Abbey                                  richMoND
Admission £3.90                                                       n Millgate house and garden (Which? holiday
                                                      the most spectacular and unspoilt of the           favourite)
n richmondshire Museum                                north yorkshire ruined medieval monasteries        01748 823571
the museum houses a mixed collection that             set in Studley Royal Water Garden.       
ranges from fossils to local ethnographic exhibits.   Open 10am-5pm mar-oct, 10am-4pm nov-feb            the understated 18th-century facade gives no
Open 10.30am-4.30pm daily                             Admission £7.90                                    clue to the pearl within. Step over the threshold
Admission £2.50                                                                                          though and you enter another world. the
                                                      GOOD PLACES TO STAY                                exquisite interior reflects the best of times past.
n richmond Station                                                                                       period furniture is tastefully juxtaposed with                               prices are for the cheapest double room per        treasures from around the world. Charming
now covered, the renovated Victorian station          night in June 2009.                                bedrooms come with a complimentary flask of
houses a bistro and a restaurant, and beer and                                                           malt whisky and luxurios bathrooms are huge.
cheese can be sampled in the station’s micro-         haroMe, Near heLMsLeY                              the magnificent garden is resplendent with
brewery and cheese makers.                            n Cross house Lodge at the Star Inn                vibrant flowering shrubs and climbers.
Open 9am-11pm daily                                   Tel 01439 770397                                   Price £95-125
Admission free                                                     Disabled access not suitable for wheelchairs
                                                      An offering of three types of stylish
n Easby Abbey                                         accommodation under the patronage of the           riPoN                           old-world Star inn (see ‘Good places to eat’)      n the old Deanery
With the sound of the gurgling River Swale and        is scattered around the tiny village of harome.    Tel 01765 600003
surrounded by woodland the 12th-century               the Cross house Lodge is a boutique hotel
premonstratensian ruin is a haven of tranquillity.    with eight chic bedrooms and a communal            behind the austere stone, Georgian facade,
Open 10am-6pm 21 mar-30 September,                    restaurant and lounge. the timber-beamed           this welcoming hotel that looks to the cathedral,
10am-5pm 1-oct-31 oct, 10am-4pm 1 nov 31 mar          black Eagle Cottages have three large and          has been restored and redesigned blending
Admission free                                        tastefully furnished self-catering suites and      contemporary style with original Jacobean
                                                      the farmhouse is a beautifully refurbished         features. the smart bedrooms also mix old
riPoN                                                 17th-century building, suitable for groups.        charm, such as timber beams in the eaves and
further south on the A61 Ripon is a stylish little    Price £140. Self-catering suites £130.             ornamental fireplaces with stylish fittings.
market town with a huge cathedral and a               Farmhouse 6 people 2 or more nights £80            Price £120
plethora of teashops and three museums that           per person (4 people 2 or more nights £90)         Rooms 11
are themed to the british penal system.                                                                  Disabled access not suitable for wheelchairs
                                                                                                          treats, taking a meal at the Star is a memorable
n the royal oak                                      bar has a more homely intimate feel. bedrooms        indulgence. begin with a drink in the adjoining
Tel 01765 602284                                     are individually designed in contemporary styles.    bar. on a cold day snuggled up to the roaring fire                              Price £135                                           will soon have you feeling warm and cosy. dinner
Just off the market square a 1700s coaching inn      Rooms: 37 (some have a cathedral view)               in the friendly narrow restaurant is an intimate
and neighbouring shop were converted in 2007         Disabled access: 3 rooms wheelchair accessible.      occasion that feels as though you are with a large
into a fashionable gastro pub with rooms. At the                                                          group of friends and relations. A three-course
end of the large open-plan split-level bar and       n guy Fawkes Inn                                     meal is around £40 (see ‘Good places to stay’).
restaurant are the two small open-fronted dining     Tel 08454 609020
rooms done out in burgundy and pastel green.                               PickeriNg
both areas are attractively fitted out with modern   opposite the minster the quaint four-room            n the White Swan Inn
furniture, although the upper room, with its         cottage in the courtyard garden of this smart        01751 47228
wood-panelled walls, is the cosier of the two.       three-storey inn was where mrs fawkes gave 
modern furnished bedrooms are coloured in a          birth to her gunpowder plotter son Guy. the bar      Should you be staying overnight in pickering
blend of cheerful orange, and royal burgundy.        in the main building serves a range of beers such    (see ‘Good places to stay’), it’s well-worth trying
Price £70                                            as Conspirator and Guy fawkes 1605, and the          out the White Swan inn’s appealing restaurant.
Rooms 6                                              attractive restaurant offers a menu of traditional   divided in two parts the spacious and tastefully
Disabled access not suitable for wheelchairs         yorkshire fare. Large bedrooms are beautifully       furnished dining room, fronted by a row of tall
                                                     kitted out with antique beds and chunky furniture.   windows, extends to a cosy back room.
roseDaLe aBBeY                                       Price £90                                            A three-course meal costs around £25.
n White horse Farm Inn                               Rooms 13
Tel 01751 417239                                     Disabled access groundfloor rooms (not suitable      thirsk                         for wheelchairs)                                     n the Black Lion
five miles from hutton-le-hole, the White horse                                                           8 Market Place
boasts an excellent valley side position. deep in    n Lamb & Lion Inn                                    Tel 01845 574302
the heart of the north york moors the village        Tel 0454 609040                                      Just off the market square this recent addition
makes a good walking or touring base. once a                             to the thirsk eating scene is a breath of fresh air.
17th century farmhouse, the farm-come-inn            Close to the minster and adjoining the principle     the unfussy, vibrant restaurant and bar serves
began serving beer as far back as 1703. Since        gateway of the Roman wall the Lamb & Lion has        mouth-watering uncomplicated dishes and the
then it has come on a lot and it’s now a fully       one of the most enviable positions in the city.      generous portions are agreeably presented, a
fledged hotel with snug restaurant and pleasant      the little alcoves and narrow passages around        mozzarella and tomato salad and a large bowl
airy bar. modern bedrooms are attractive and         the rustic-feel bar and restaurant are a reminders   of mussels and fries costs £18.
decorated in white and beige the two courtyard       of the inn’s 250 year history. modern bedrooms
facing rooms have balconies while front rooms        though with laminate overlay flooring and            York
have moorland views.                                 pale-painted walls appears at odds with the          n Middlethorpe hall & Spa
Price £60                                            otherwise old-world building. the courtyard beer     Tel 01904 641241
Rooms 11                                             garden beneath the Roman wall, is a delight.
Disabled access not suitable for wheelchairs         Price £90                                            the public restaurant in this luxury hotel
                                                     Rooms 12                                             (see ‘Good places to stay’) is popular with guests
thirsk                                               Disabled access none                                 and locals alike. the centuries-old surroundings
n golden Fleece                                                                                           of polished wood-panelled walls, big bay
Tel 01845 523108                                     n Middlethorpe hall & Spa                            windows and a fine collection of antiques is a                            Tel 01904 641241                                     lovely place to relax over a fine meal. Served by
on the market square this handsome                                          a team of friendly and skilled servers dishes are
15th-century hostelry is past its prime but still    Just out of town by 1½ miles, and set in its own     fashionably presented and tastefully prepared.
comfortable. the most attractive public room is      grounds of parkland and manicured gardens is a       A three-course meal costs around £45.
the street-facing writing room and lounge where      grand 17th-century country house that offers
holding pride of place is an antique grandfather     sumptuous accommodation and good food. the           USEfUL INfORmATION
clock. the split-level bar although large is         two adjoining dining rooms are attractively
welcoming and done out in claret and cream,          furnished and the library and lounge adjacent are    recommended guidebook
but although it’s formally decorated, the spacious   equally sumptuous and make the perfect setting       n Lonely Planet England, £15.99
restaurant lacks any real character. traditional-    to take an aperitif. bedrooms range from twee        (iSbn 978-1-74104-567-3X)
style bedrooms are reasonably sized and come         country-style to opulent suites.                     recommended map
with four-poster, half-canopy and modern beds.       Price £190                                           n Philip’s Books Yorkshire, £4.25
Price £120                                           Rooms 29                                             (iSbn 978-0-540-09438-7)
Rooms 23 (the nicest rooms are at the front)         Facilities spa, sauna, covered pool                  Website
Disabled access not suitable for wheelchairs         Disabled access groundfloor rooms, 1 room            n Visit Britain (
                                                     wheelchair adapted
n Dean Court                                         GOOD PLACES TO EAT
01904 625082                             haroMe, Near heLMsLeY
Slick smartness over old-world ambiance was          n The Star Inn
the choice of styles in this 2008 refurbished        Tel 01439 770397
hotel. the modern and informal bistro contrasts
the plush and formal restaurant. next door the       true to its ever-growing reputation for gourmet

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Description: North Yorkshire