texworld_usa_spinning_systems_v2

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					Learning the differences
  The act or processing of
  converting staple or
  short lengths of fiber
  into continuous yarns.

Dictionary.com
•Ring Spinning
•Compact
•Open End
•Air jet
CONVENTIONAL           MODERN

 Fiber      CP   Syn    Fiber      CP   Syn
 Carding    x    x      Carding    x    x
 Drawing    x    x*     Drawing    x    x*
 Lap wind   x           Lap wind   x
 Combing    x
 Drawing    x    x      Combing    x
 Roving     x    x      Drawing    x    x
 Spinning   x    x      Spinning   x    x
 Winding    x    x

 Process 8       6      Process 6       4
Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s
                                       Roving


Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong
Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+

Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong
                                                          Roving



                                  air



                                        Perforated Drum
Ring Spun   Ring Spun - Siro   Compact
Ringspun   SwissCotton
yarn       Royal
Very good pilling values and durability
(Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)
Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure
Excellent evenness of knit fabrics
Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric
Luster
Great alternative to plied yarns
Less energy
Softer than plied yarns
More economical than plied yarns
Less Processing !!!

  Refer to Slide 4
   Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’s
   Fibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong
   (length is not as important as ring spinning)
                     Rotor   Yarn Package




                                             Feed Roll
                                                             Sliver
Transport                                                  Condenser
Air Channel



                                                            Sliver

      Combing Roll
                                     Trash    Feed Plate
Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’s
Fibers: (1) Long (2) Strong
(length is not as important as ring spinning)

                                                b
Still very new in
 the market…
Spinning Efficiency and Endsdown:
Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:

                                              Rotor   Yarn Package
      Roving
                                                                                                           b


                                                                      Feed Roll
                                                                                    Sliver
                         Transport                                                Condenser
                         Air Channel



                                                                                    Sliver

                               Combing Roll
                                                              Trash    Feed Plate




 1. Short Fiber length         1. Trash content                                               1. Trash content
 2. Trash content              2. Short Fiber content                                         2. Short Fiber Content
 3. Roving twist level         3. Sliver Uniformity                                           3. Sliver Uniformity
      FL.FS
FQI =
       Mic
 FQI            Upland Cotton     ELS Cotton

 Min                    3.0       10.0

 Max                    10.0      15.0


FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)
FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)
Mic = Micronaire
System                               Pilling   Torque   Strength   Drape   Durability*   Price

Ring Spinning                          3         4         2        1          1          3

Compact                                2         3         1        2          2          4

Open End                               4         2         4        4          4          2

Air Jet                                1         1         3        3          3          1

***The lower the number the better


* Repeated use over time




Assumptions

1. Spinning 30/1 Ne 100% Lenzing Modal Yarn for knits

2. Subsequent processing is the same
There are literally hundreds of
variables in the spinning process
which influence the outcome of
      fabric and garments.
Where is the source of fiber?
Do you have a relationship with the fiber
producer and spinner?
What are the parameters in which the spinner
purchases the fiber?
Does the fiber perform to expectations in
relation to yarn count and fabric properties?
How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?
Do you have a relationship with the machine
manufacturer?
What are the machine’s unique features?
Does the manufacturer of the machines offer
excellent service, adequate training, and able
to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?
Is the spinner willing to partner with you and
your the supply chain to improve the quality
and performance of fabrics?
Same goes with the machinery
manufacturer?
Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea
of you stating the spinner you want to use?
 There may be bonds which need to be broken for
 this to happen..
Dr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn University
 yehiae@eng.auburn.edu
Rob Beal, Oerlikon
 rob.beals@oerlikon.com
Mark Lingerfelt, Muratec
 mlingerfelt@muratec-usa.com
Hans Rothen, Rieter
 Hans.rothen@rieter.com
Buhler Quality Yarns
1881 Athens Highway
Jefferson, Georgia 30549
Office - +1 706 367-3931
E-Mail – dsasso@buhleryarns.com

				
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