Thank you for your interest in my little tissue enterprise! I hope you will find these tissue patterns to be a
lightweight representation of some of the camouflage patterns used by the axis forces in WW1.

The process used is simple. The pattern is set up in a graphics program and printed with an inkjet printer.
This really beats the sweaty airbrush jobs I used to do, plus a consistent quality can be maintained. The pattern
is printed on sheets of tissue gently adhered to legal sized paper, (8.5 X 14.0). Only the best quality Japanese
tissue obtainable is used, usually flyspan, by Esaki. Recently, because of the technique of chalking tissue,
the decision was made to print on the shiny side of this tissue. Modelers now have the ability to darken or
lighten the hue as well as add opacity.

Any “practical” scale can be printed. In the 15 years spent printing this tissue, there have been few complaints.
and, every year better ways of doing things come to mind. The recent acquisition of the Methuen Handbook of
Color has helped with color matching. Although fascination with the lozenge patterns sparked my interest in
printing tissue, I must be practical and simple in my offering. I am not involved in this work to enter debates
over color accuracy. The best efforts are made to stay informed on the subject at hand. That said, these patterns
are probably the best batch yet. And throughout the years prices have been kept low. This activity is a labor of
love and I humbly hope my brothers and sisters in our hobby see this as a service.

Applying this tissue to an airframe should present no major challenge to a seasoned craftsman. I print with
an ink that stands up fairly well to a light mist of water, and better to alcohol (if you feel the need to shrink).
The ink may run if you really lay the water on. The method I use is to adhere the tissue to an airframe with
white glue (thinned out), then spray a cloud of water or alcohol into the air, pass the part through the mist till
the tissue looks “baggy” next, (in the case of a wing or stabilizer) pin the part to a pre-setup drying jig. This is
the time to add shims for washin, or washout, if you haven’t already built it in. Let the part completely dry
before taking it out of the jig, of course. After dry, simply apply a light coat of your favorite sealer, (I use Krylon
matte or clear coat, but thinned out dope works fine,) then re-jig till dry. If you want to experiment, try some
Future floor wax. Now for the sad part…no waterslide decals for the obvious reason. Get good with airbrushed
or cut tissue insignias, or even better, let me print them for you. The patterns available are as follows: German
4-color lozenge light and dark, 5-color lozenge light and dark, Naval hex, and Austro-Hungarian 8-color hex.
It must be mentioned that all patterns remain a work in progress, and sometimes I tweak the colors a little.

Originally meant for peanut scale, any practical scale is available. A printed tissue sample sheet is available
for only $2.00. Custom work will be considered for the non-anal retentive only, you know who you are!

1-7 sheets $5.00 per sheet
8-14 sheets $4.40,
15-21 sheets $4.15
$3.95 from there.

The pattern you choose does not matter. All patterns are set up to cover the entire sheet with a continuous
interlocked pattern, so you don’t have to stress over chord width. To order, please state the aircraft type,
scale and any other information you deem pertinent. If you are building from a kit, let me know which one. I
have thousands of plans in my archives, so if you can identify the plan to me, please do, it will help me check
the scale more accurately. A photocopy of the plan is appreciated if the subject is plainly obscure. Please mail
your check or money order to:

                        Robert Wells, One Rockingham Drive, Wilmington, DE 19803
                                      email me at:

To top