The Bushwhacker Newsletter by xyd75631

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									                                            The Bushwhacker
                                               Newsletter
 Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Island Section                                           December 2009


 ACC VANCOUVER ISLAND                                EXECUTIVE                 COMING EVENTS AT A GLANCE
        SECTION
                                             Chair                            December 10: Christmas Party,
Social Events                                Cedric Zala 250 652 5841         Conrad Kain Play and Gear Swap,
The club has a monthly slide-show               cedriczala@shaw.ca
presentation at the Swan Lake Nature                                          Swan Lake Nature Centre, 6 pm
                                             Secretary                        (Swap), 7 pm (Party and Play)
House, 3873 Swan Lake Road,
Victoria, BC on the second Thursday          Rick Hudson 250 656 6533
of each month, except in July and               rickhudson@shaw.ca
                                             Treasurer                        January 14: Slideshow, "Travels in
August. The doors open at 7:00, and
the show starts at 7:30.                     Geoff Bennett 250 853 7515       the Galapagos and Ecuador",
                                                geoff.bennett@shaw.ca         Murrough O’Brien, Swan Lake
Web Information                              Members-at-Large:                Nature Centre, 7 pm
Web site: www.accvi.ca                       Russ Moir 250 477 0070
Webmaster: webmaster@accvi.ca
                                                rlmoir@telus.net              January 29-31: Annual General
National ACC Office                          Dave Campbell 250 755 1600       Meeting (Jan 30) and Ski Weekend,
For new memberships and renewals,               david_ac@hotmail.com          Mt Washington
changes of address or other details,         Mike Morley 250 382 4363
and booking huts, contact the ACC               mmorley@uvic.ca
National office directly.                    Phee Hudson 250 656 6533         January 31: Deadlines for grant
www.alpineclubofcanada.ca                       pheehudson@shaw.ca            applications to the Memorial Fund
info@alpineclubofcanada.ca                                                    and for submissions to the
403 678 3200, or P.O. Box 8040
                                             BMFF Coordinators                Bushwhacker Annual
Canmore, AB, T1W 2T8
                                             Lissa Zala 250 652 5841
Annual Membership Dues                          lissazala@shaw.ca             February 11: Slideshow, “Getting
Single $ 56                                  Kari Frazer 778 426 3310         High on Vancouver Island”, Christine
Family $ 76                                     Frazer.kari@gmail.com         Fordham, Swan Lake Nature Centre,
Youth (19 and under) $ 41                    Bushwhacker Annual
                                             Sandy Stewart 250 655 8919
                                                                              7 pm
The Bushwhacker Newsletter                      stewarta@islandnet.com
is a monthly publication of the                                               February 18: Executive meeting,
                                             Education
Vancouver Island Section.
                                             Dave Campbell 250 755 1600       7:30 pm
Newsletter Editor: Cedric Zala,
250 652 5841, cedriczala@shaw.ca                david_ac@hotmail.com
                                             Equipment                        February 25: Winter Social, 2680
We encourage submissions of items of         Mike Hubbard 250 370 1096        MacDonald Drive East (Cadboro
interest to our membership, including           jmhubbard@shaw.ca             Bay), 7pm
news items, announcements, and               FMCBC Rep
short articles, along with photos. Email     John Young 250 751 1551
                            th
your submission by the 25 day of the
                                                johnyoung22222@gmail.com
                                                                              February 26-28: Wilderness First
previous month.                                                               Aid Course, Venue and Times TBD
                                             Librarian/Archivist
Advertising shall be accepted at the         Judith Holm 250 477 8596
discretion of the editor. All advertising       holm@telus.net                March 11: Slideshow, “Into Deepest
shall be for products or services of         Membership                       East Africa”, Albert Hestler, Swan
direct interest to our membership.           Jain Alcock-White 250 334 7786   Lake Nature Centre, 7 pm
                                                janealcockwhite@shaw.ca
Our Motto                                    Newsletter
1.   COME BACK ALIVE                                                          July 17-24, 24-31: Summer Camps,
                                             Cedric Zala 250 652 5841         Alava Basin, Vancouver Island
2.   COME BACK FRIENDS                           cedriczala@shaw.ca
3.   RESPECT THE LAND                        Schedule
4.   HAVE FUN                                Karun Thanjavur 250 383 6252
5.   GET TO THE TOP                             karun@uvic.ca
     (IN THAT ORDER!)
                                             Webmaster
                                             Martin Hofmann 250 920 7432
                                                mhofmannskis@gmail.com
                                            In Memoriam

We are sorry to announce that Gil Parker’s wife, Lavona, passed away in October after a long
illness. Our deepest condolences to Gil and his family.



                                         Upcoming Events

Christmas Party and Gear Swap: Thursday, December 10
Join us at the Swan Lake Nature Centre, 3873 Swan Lake Road, Victoria, BC, for a fun and
memorable evening. This year’s Christmas party will include two events:

   •   A gear swap, starting at 6:00 pm. Bring your equipment that you’re no longer using or
       would like to move on and/or find some great deals on your fellow members’ gear.
   •   A live play, “As Far As I Can Take You,” about the life of Conrad Kain, produced by Parks
       Canada and starring Philip Nugent. This will get underway about 7:30.

Come, swap, celebrate, be entertained, meet old friends, make new ones, and enjoy an alpine
start to the Christmas season. Free to members (but we do change for drinks!).




         Philip Nugent performing “As Far As I Can Take You” at Lake O’Hara. (photo: Pat Morrow)

                                                                             Continued on next page…




                                                                                                   2
Upcoming Events, continued

AGM and Ski Weekend: January 29-31
Come and attend the AGM at Mt Washington on the evening of January 30, followed by a
slideshow presentation by Mike Hubbard and Colleen Kasting on their recent Antarctic trip.
And spend the days skiing/snowshoeing (note the January 31 trip up Mt Becher to be led by
Mike Hubbard). We have booked the Mt Washington Guest House (1203 Foster's Place) for
the nights of January 29 and 30, 2010. The upscale Mt Washington Guest House sleeps 30
and has a hot tub! The cost per person for the two nights’ accommodation is just $100. To
reserve your space, please contact Cedric Zala, cedriczala@shaw.ca, or mail cheques, made
out to “Alpine Club of Canada - VI Section,” to Cedric Zala, 7776 Trentelmann Place,
Saanichton, BC, V8M 1K9, ASAP.

First Aid Course: February 26-28
We have arranged a non-certified 24-hour wilderness first aid course in Victoria for the
weekend of February 26-28. The cost will be $80 (which includes a 50% subsidy from the
Club). Contact Cedric Zala (cedriczala@shaw.ca) to register.



                Avalanche Skills Training 1 (AST1), January 8-10, 2010

We still have 5 spaces available for the AST1 Course at Mount Cain. This course is designed
to provide the basic skills required for assessing avalanche terrain and hazards, and
performing companion rescue, and is a recommended standard base level of training for winter
ski and snowshoe trips in avalanche terrain.

If you are interesting in taking the course, please contact Dave Campbell ASAP
(david_ac@hotmail.com, 250-755-1600) to register. The overall course cost is $285, which
includes instruction by Island Alpine Guides and two nights accommodation (worth $80) at
Mount Cain. With the 50% subsidy for section/UVOC members, the cost is reduced to
$182.50.

Please note we need to confirm at least 3 more participants by December 7th in order to
ensure we have adequate numbers to run the course. Don't delay!

See the education pages on the website for more details.



                         Submissions for Bushwhacker Annual

If you’ve been on a memorable ACC trip this past year, it’s time to sit down and write it up for
the Bushwhacker Annual, and bask in the resulting glory. Not only does the Annual make
engaging reading, but it’s an important record of our destinations and routes, and a valuable
guide to leaders and participants in future club trips and expeditions. While trip reports are its
mainstay, you can also write about other alpine-related topics that matter to you, and of course
a poem is always welcome, too. Check the guidelines and let your creative juices flow in the
form of ink (whoops, keystrokes)! Please send your submissions to Russ Moir
(russmoir@gmail.com) by January 31, 2010.


                                                                                              3
                                              Nuts and Bolts

Donations to the ACCVI Memorial Fund
As the end of the year approaches, our thoughts naturally turn to helping others. There are many worthy
causes to consider. If you wish to support youth activities in the mountains please make a tax-deductible
donation to our Section’s Memorial Fund. Details can be found on the website. Not only will you get a tax
receipt but the Section will match all contributions, thereby doubling the value of your donation.

Grant Applications to the ACCVI Memorial Fund
Since the inauguration of the Memorial Fund last January, the account has earned over $1,100 and is now
in a position to offer its first annual grant for youth activities in the alpine. Check the Memorial Fund web
page for details and submit applications before January 31, 2010.

Equipment Donation – Thanks to Chris Schreiber
Chris Schreiber, a former ACCVI member and editor of the Bushwhacker, has very kindly donated the
following gear to the club, all in A1 condition. Many thanks to Chris for thinking of us and donating this
equipment, which is now available for rental to club members:
     • 1 set Trak - Alta cross country skis -205 cm with 3 pin bindings and size 9 1/2 boots and skins
     • 1set Kazama 218 cm cross country skis with Voile bindings
     • 2 sets of cross country ski poles
     • 1pair leather Ski mountaineering Boots -size 9 1/2
     • 1 pair leather cross country ski boots size 44
     • 1 pair snow gaiters
     • 2 pairs of crampons
     • 1 ski bag
     • 1 snow shovel
     • 1 snow anchor
     • 1 ice screw
     • 1 65 cm Aneto ice axe by Simond of Chamonix in as new condition
     • Miscellaneous waxes, etc.

ACCVI Member Selected for TNF Course
Congratulations to Bill Rickson, who has been selected to go on the Winter TNF course, with this year’s
emphasis on developing ski touring leadership skills.

Avalanche Danger
We have had a recent report of avalanches on Mount Arrowsmith. A fair amount of snow has fallen
recently and now the temperature has risen appreciably, resulting in melting and instability. So if you
venture onto snowy slopes, please be aware and prudent. And be sure to check the Island Avalanche
Bulletin beforehand.

Reminders
   • Please ensure your membership is up to date, so to as to be covered by the ACC’s liability
      insurance. And please keep your contact information up-to-date on ACC National’s site, as it‘s
      from this master list that we download our email addresses for mailouts.
   • The 2010 Summer Camp in Alava Basin (see details in the October newsletter) still has a few
      places available. If you would like to attend, please check that newsletter or contact Cedric Zala
      (cedriczala@shaw.ca).




                                                                                                       4
                The B.C. Mountaineer: 100 Years of Mountaineering 1907-2007

                                           Editor: Michael Feller
Reviewed by Ron Dart, Vancouver Section, ACC

We are often inundated, when the tale of Canadian mountaineering is told, with the role of the Swiss Guides
and the more adventuresome life of Conrad Kain. But, there is much more to the history than an excessive
focus on these important actors in the drama. It is this history that has been organized, recounted and retold
so well by Michael Feller’s steady and sure footed editorial skills in The B.C Mountaineer: 100 Years of
Mountaineering.

The British Columbia Mountaineering Club celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2007 (1907-2007). Eyes were
eager and minds poised to read the tale and drama of a century of BCMC life. Most were accustomed to the
fine and predictable publication of The B.C. Mountaineer every couple of years. The wait was longer for the
anniversary tome, but the wait was rewarded by a splendid book that is already a collector’s item.

Michael Feller and other able and gifted assistants have done a superb job of bringing a variety of
mountaineering essays together to tell the fascinating history of BCMC. The large book, replete with A++
essays and excellent photographs from different decades, is divided into fourteen sections: 1) The B.C.
Mountaineering Club: Beginnings, 2) The South Coast Mountains, 3) Mountains North of Vancouver, 4)
Vancouver Island, 5) Poetry and Songs, 6) The Central Coast Mountains, 7) The Northern Coast Mountains,
8) The Cascade Mountains, 9) Thinker and Philosopher, 10) The Columbia Mountains, 11) The Rocky
Mountains, 12) The North, 13) Outside Canada and Alaska and 14) Perspectives on the BC Mountaineering
Club.

There is little doubt that The B.C. Mountaineer: 100 Years of mountaineering 1907-2007 is a well rounded,
relatively comprehensive and balanced presentation of climbing events and the more political and reflective
aspects of mountaineering. Most of the photographs in the large and weighty volume are real keepers and
visual delights that will inspire and encourage one and all to take to the rock guardians of old, frigid glaciers
and white towers. The history of BCMC and mountaineering in BC is generously covered, but the many trips
by BCMC members that have turned to challenging peaks outside Canada are also touched on. Those who
slowly take the time to read and reread The B.C Mountaineer cannot but be taken by all that members from
BCMC have done between 1907-2007. Those in the future will have reason to look back on the initial century
of BCMC life as a golden and energetic phase of the club’s life.

The section in which a great deal of attention was focused on was ‘The Central Coast Mountains’. It is in this
glacier thick region that the reigning peak of BC is located: Mt. Waddington. There are nine articles on Mt.
Waddington that begin with Don Munday’s ‘Mystery Mountain’ and conclude with Brian Gavin’s ‘Mt.
Waddington-a dream fulfilled’. Feller and team were right to linger longer on Mt. Waddington and the Central
Coast Mountains than on other specific mountains and ranges. There is so much about this alluring and
spacious fortress that holds mind, body and imagination. It is, in a sense, the Himalayas of BC. Many a hope
fulfilled and tragic experience has been lived through in this demanding and unforgiving mountain citadel and
cathedral.

The shorter sections on ‘Poetry and Songs’, ‘Thinker and Philosopher’ and ‘Perspectives on BC
Mountaineering’ are thoughtfully placed in the broader text of The B.C Mountaineer. It might have enriched
the book if these sections were longer. The front cover is framed well. The climber nearing the summit, ice
axe in the snow, knapsack on back, cinched into rope, barren rock patches and ice/snow beneath and
towering rock ridges behind tells the tale well that most know in their blood and bones.

The B.C. Mountaineer: 100 Years of mountaineering 1907-2007 is a tome that each and all who are
interested in mountaineering in BC should have. Many a time this book will call forth a read and each read will
enrich the understanding of how BCMC has lived, moved and had their mountaineering being in BC and
beyond from 1907-2007. Much gratefulness should be offered to those that put in countless hours to make
this historic document a keeper for generations to come.




                                                                                                             5
          Deep Powder and Steep Rock: The Life of Mountain Guide Hans Gmoser

                              Banff: Assiniboine Publishing Limited, 2009
                                              Chic Scott

Reviewed by Ron Dart, Vancouver Section, ACC

There is no doubt that Hans Gmoser (1932-2006) was one of the foremost pioneers of the 2nd
generation of mountaineers in Canada. The age of the Swiss Guides and Conrad Kain was waning in
the 1950s, and the season of Gmoser and friends had begun to wax with much creativity and energy.

Deep Powder and Steep Rock tells the tale well of Gmoser’s early years in Austria, his move to Canada
in the 1950s, his challenging climbs at Yamnuska and Logan-Denali, his being there at the formative
years of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides-Heli-skiing and his latter years as an elder
statesman of Canadian mountaineering. The book is not a simple hagiographical rags to riches story,
though. Scott had the integrity in the biography to make it clear that there were troubling aspects to
Gmoser’s drivenness, also. There were tragedies and deaths that had to be dealt with as the Heli-skiing
industry became a bumper crop. Scott did not flinch, to his credit, in mentioning Gmoser’s right of
centre political leanings and the troubles in his marriage as work came to trump marital responsibilities.
The sheer momentum of the biography does carry the reader through a life that, midst many a
challenge, rose to the occasion and accomplished much. Gmoser was offered the Order of Canada in
1987 for his innovations in the Canadian mountaineering community.

Deep Powder and Steep Rock is divided into six sections: 1) Just Another Day, 2) Hard Years in Austria,
3) A Mountain Guide in Canada, 4) The Great Communicator, 5) Heli-Skiing Takes Off, and 6) Elder
Statesman.
The photographs in the tome are well worth the visual journey-- Gmoser’s life and the mountains he so
loved are depicted well in the aptly chosen photos for the biography. The DVD that comes with the hard
cover is a fine tribute to Gmoser’s artistic sense and the way he could dramatically sell mountain tourism
to a new and emerging affluent generation.

It is quite appropriate that Scott wrote the biography of Gmoser (he knew him well and is one of the best
Canadian mountaineer historians). The book is a keeper and must read for those interested in the
mountaineering tribe in Canada as the clan emerged from its infancy to its maturer years.


                             Province and First Nations Rename Provincial Park
                                  Muqin/Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park
                                      Condensed from a July 2009 press release

The B.C. government is partnering with the Che:k’tles7et’h,’ members of the Ka:’yu:’k’t’h’/Che:k’tles7et’h’ First
Nations, one of the five signatories of the Maa-nulth treaty, to rename Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park.

The new park name is Muqin/Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park. The word Muqin means “The Queen” in the Nuu-
Chah-Nulth language. New park signs incorporating the language and cultural symbols of
Ka:’yu:’k’t’h’/Che:k’tles7et’h’ First Nations will be displayed within the park. The park also falls within the boundaries
of the Quatsino First Nation, who support the renaming plan. This area is spiritually significant to these First
Nations, and has long served as the traditional hunting and fishing grounds for the Che:k’tles7et’h’ peoples.

Muqin/Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park is the second-largest protected area on Vancouver Island. The park has
one of the most unique landscapes on Vancouver Island as it largely escaped the impacts of the last ice age,
offering everything from inter-tidal marine life to a sub-alpine mountain environment. It is home to a variety of rare
plant species and unique geologic formations, providing unparalleled opportunities for scientific study.

The park is located approximately 20 km north of the village of Kyuquot on northwest Vancouver Island, and is
accessible primarily by boat from Fair Harbour in Kyuquot Sound or North from Quatsino Sound.




                                                                                                                     6
                              The Wolf River Fire, 2009 by Lindsay Elms

Eight kilometres west of Buttle Lake, a strike from a lightning storm on July 5 sparked a small fire in the
remote Wolf River valley. Undisturbed, the fire smoldered for two weeks until July 22 when strong winds
picked up and the fire flared. Air tankers, helicopters and ground crews were called in to blanket the fire and
attempt to contain the spread; however, when another fire that was closing in on vital powerlines near the
town of Gold River, resources were pulled from the Wolf valley. By then the fire covered 550 hectares and
authorities called it a “modified response fire.” The Coastal Fire Centre was now saying: “We are letting
nature take its course.” Flames could be seen flaring on very steep terrain from the road along Buttle Lake
and smoke filled the valleys but it was being monitored daily. Donna MacPherson of the Coastal Fire Centre
said: “Fire is a natural part of the ecology, and especially in a park, we want to respect that. We are not
putting crews back in there right now.” She predicted it would probably continue to burn into the fall. For
hikers and climbers this past summer, the central portion of Strathcona Park was virtually off-limits because
of the smoke that was hanging over the area like a bad smell.

But what was destroyed? Being a valley that is rarely visited, by humans anyway, we have no idea of what
valuable plant and animal life was lost because of the decision to halt the fire-fighting. Bob Tustin of the
Island Mountain Ramblers, who visited the valley many times in the 1960’s, remembers a unique yew forest
up the Wolf Valley. He believes the yew trees may have been destroyed but until someone goes in there
and can confirm or deny the fact, he has his fingers crossed. If global warming is increasing can we expect
more fires in the park in the future! As tax payers are we going to let the powers-that-be make the decision
to let it burn no matter how much is destroyed or are we going to demand that they do something to protect
“our” park!




                                                                                                      7
              Access Notes – Mount Myra and Tennant Lake by Dave Campbell

With the snow starting to fly, destinations for winter skiing are surely at the front of everyone’s minds. A
favourite winter destination is the area around Tennant Lake and Mount Myra. A crew of six of us
headed up to give a crack at Mount Myra last winter. Hearing stories of previous avalanche incidents in
the past, I was eager to try an alternate approach to the alpine around Sandbag Lake which avoided
technical terrain on the normal route. The traditional route in winter is to follow the summer trail up
above the Tennant Lake dam. From the lake, this route heads more or less due south across rolling,
convoluted terrain to a steep gully system. This gully is prone to avalanching, and is steep enough that
people typically boot-pack up it. From the top of this gully, continue south-east towards the alpine tarn
(Sandbag Lake) and on to Mount Myra.

On our trip, we found that the gully at the south-east end of Tennant Lake provided quick and efficient
access to Sandbag Lake. This alleviates the need to work through the convoluted terrain and boot-
packing on the standard route. From just before the far (south) end of Tennant Lake (best when frozen),
pick up the first prominent gully to the left (GR# 093 908), heading due west. We were able to skin our
way up this gully, sticking to the right side of the creek to avoid steep sections. At one point we were
forced in to the bottom of the gully for a short distance, and were able to ascend out of this near the end
by heading up through steeper terrain on the right. Note that the bottom of the gully is a significant
terrain trap, and this route is not appropriate in periods of high avalanche hazard. We were able to skin
up the entire gully without removing skis. From the top of the gully, the route rejoins the standard route
to Sandbag Lake and beyond. This route also made for a great descent down from the alpine, and we
were fortunate to be able to ski this run a couple of times on our trip.

                                                                                    Continued next page…




           Exiting the approach variation into the alpine above Tennant Lake, March 2009.




                                                                                                        8
…Access Notes – Mount Myra and Tennant Lake, continued


I was up again to Tennant Lake this November. After more than a year of being out of commission, the
bridge over East Tennant Creek has now been replaced. Watch your step dismounting the bridge on
the west side-for some reason there are no stairs down off the pipeline.




                   Replacement bridge over East Tennant Creek, November, 2009.




                                                                                                 9
                       Mountain Skills Semester by Andrew Pape-Salmon

How many different techniques can you use to climb a mountain? My purview used to be limited to
hiking and scrambling, but during a three month course offered by Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, I
discovered numerous possibilities that I had never tried before. The semester included instruction,
practice and leadership development in nine “sections”.

During a year off of work (sabbatical) with the BC Government, I made the decision to travel to the
Rockies to experience continental snow, tall peaks and the mountaineering culture of Canmore. There
were six people in the program from Austria, Denmark, Detroit, Edmonton, Sweden and myself from
Victoria. The age range was from mid-20s to late 40s.

The trekking section focused on navigation, route finding skills and no trace camping near Canmore.
For the rock climbing section, I was one of two novices, while the other four were sport climbing experts
and had experience doing lead and trad climbing. The highlight was a multi-pitch ascent of “Kid Goat”
next to the Yamnuska rock, the first mountain you pass when travelling from Calgary to Banff. This
climb was on good quality limestone, but I generally preferred the more “positive” holds of quartzite at
the back of Lake Louise during the section.




                     The author doing his first “lead” climb at Wasootch Slabs

                                                                                  Continued next page…




                                                                                                    10
Mountain Skills Semester, continued…

Winter set in very quickly in early October for our glacier section at the Columbia Icefields in Jasper. I
wore plastic boots to deal with the -17 highs as we learned to “walk like John Wayne” with crampons
downhill (keeping the feet wide and stay low) and pull somebody out of a crevasse with ropes and pulleys.
We summitted Mount Wilcox (2,884m) after a challenging scramble on snow and ice with “short roping” for
protection. The rescue section that followed at the base of Mount Rundle included some nifty techniques
such as “block and tackle” to raise or lower somebody.

Many of our skills came together during the week of October 19th as we did our mountaineering expedition
in the south Kananaskas region, near Mount Joffre. It was not only physically demanding with my 75lb
pack, but also mentally challenging due to a lack of sunshine the whole week. Through deep snow and
across small glaciers we summitted Warrior and Marlborough mountains (elevation, 2,973m) and explored
an unnamed peak next to Aster Lake but didn’t summit due to “considerable” avalanche risk on the east
facing slope that had developed some wind slab.




                          View of Mount Marlborough from Warrior Mountain

Prior to a 5 day course break, we completed an 80 hour wilderness first aid course, learning protocols for
dealing with health issues more than 2 hours from definitive medical care. My wife Sara visited me in
Banff where we relaxed, did some trail running and took in the Banff Mountain Film Fest.

                                                                                    Continued next page…




                                                                                                   11
Mountain Skills Semester, continued…

After the break, we began the Avalanche Skills Training level 2 course and headed to the ACC Bow and
Peyto Huts in the Wapta Icefields for the glacier ski section. The wind was extreme and the avalanche risk
went from considerable to high due to the development of a wind slab on top of a weak facet layer, among
other factors. During the week, we summitted Mount Gordon (elevation 3203m) in the sun and practiced
white-out compass navigation with limited “hand rails” to travel between the huts. During the section, we
spent several hours discussing group dynamics, communication skills and leadership styles, partly in
response to a mini-crisis of differing goals and personal styles.




                                         Skiing off Mount Gordon

The ice climbing section was my favourite so far – a surprise to me, as I had never aspired to climb on
frozen waterfalls. The Rockies offer some of the best ice climbing in the world and we located ourselves at
Rampart Creek Hostel near dozens of formed climbs. I prefer ice climbing over rock climbing because each
move has four good holds, except for those occasions installing or removing an ice screw or taking a photo.
I seconded a seven rope pitch, ~200 meter climb on Murchison Falls near Saskatchewan River crossing,
rated at a WI 4+ difficulty. Yamnuska normally provides a 2:1 student-guide ration for all multi pitch climbs
(rock and ice), but I had a guide to myself because one of the participants was injured during the course
break. This climb was one of the most mentally challenging activities I have ever experienced, but the
feeling of achievement was enormous. We also frequented the dryer “Kootenay Plains” for climbs on “2
O’Clock Falls” and “SARs on Ice” and also iced climbed Balfour Wall and dry tooled rock in “Bullshit Canyon”
near Jasper.

                                                                                     Continued next page…




                                                                                                   12
Mountain Skills Semester, continued…




                                               SARs on Ice

The last section of the program could top it all as we ski into the ACC Asulkan Hut in Roger’s Pass for a
five day trip on lots of fresh powder. This will be good practice for my goal of leading ACC and Strathcona
Nordics ski trips on Vancouver Island later this season.

Throughout the program we have learned a lot about the guiding industry from our teachers/leaders. The
ultimate guiding achievement is to become an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides’ certified
“mountain guide” which requires alpine, ski and assistant rock guide status. I think I will pursue the less
intensive Hiking Guide certification to support my interest of leading kids into the mountains of southern
and central Vancouver Island, generally not involving glaciers and snow.

Through the 11 week semester, one week still to go, I have experienced many different ways of climbing a
mountain – hiking with leather boots; scrambling with short rope where necessary; mountaineering on
glaciers with crampons, ice axe and rope team; rock climbing on vertical walls; backcountry skiing; and ice
climbing. While all paths lead to a summit, the Yamnuska Mountain Skills Semester taught me to get
there in an efficient and safe manner given my level of technical skill. I can now confidently pursue some
of the great peaks of Vancouver Island and hopefully of western North America over the next few years.

You can see all my photos and commentary at: http://papesalmon.smugmug.com




                                                                                                    13
                                 ACC-VI Section History by Lindsay Elms

The following are highlights of the Victoria section of the Alpine Club of Canada for 1947 from The Gazette.

        February: Major Rex Gibson, at a public meeting showed slides of the Yoho Ski Camp and of climbing.

        March: Mr. J.L. Longland, a distinguished member of the Alpine Club and Cambridge mountaineering
        Club gave an account of his trip on the Greenland Ice-cap and the ascent of the highest peak.

        April: At the Annual Dinner Ferris Neave spoke of “His Early Climbing Experiences” illustrating them with
        slides and General William W. Foster gave a commentary on Mr. S.R. Vallance’s slides of the Glacier
        Region.

        Club outing were made to Deer Park in Washington State, Mount Maxwell on Saltspring Island, local
        climbs around Victoria and some in the Cowichan Lake region.

        Section members attended the Ski camp and the Glacier Camp in the Selkirks July 13 to July 26:
        Bill Lash
        Mallory Lash (Avalanche Peak)
        Ethne Gale
        Geoffrey Capes
        Rex Gibson

        Colonel Horace (Rusty) Westmorland [VI section Chairman 1923] was awarded the ACC Silver Rope for
        leadership.

        December: At the Annual Meeting Dr. W.E. Mark Mitchell was re-elected Chairman and Miss Muriel
        Aylard Secretary-Treasurer. Dr. Irene Hudson, Miss Ethne Gale, Major Frank Longstaff, Mr. Francis
        Tuckey and Mr. William (Bill) Heybroek were elected as members of the Executive. Major Longstaff
        gave an illustrated account of a trip to the Bridge River District.

The following are highlights of the Victoria section of the Alpine Club of Canada for 1948 from The Gazette.

        February: Major Rex Gibson, at a public meeting, took his audience on an expedition to the Lloyd
        George Group of mountains in Northern British Columbia.

        At the Annual Dinner the special guests were Mr. and Mrs. W.A. Don Munday and Rev. George Kinney.
        Don Munday showed slides of the Coast Mountains.

        June: Ethne Gale and Rex Gibson were married.

        Local climbs were undertaken with occasional weekend climbing and ski trips in the Olympics and
        Cascades.

        The section was represented at both Glacier Ski Camp and Peyto Lake Camp July 11 to July 30:
        Aileen Aylard                    Rex Gibson                      Sylvia Lash
        Muriel Aylard                    William Heybroek                Dorothy Lash
        Connie Bonner                    Miss D. Hay                     Pam Mitchell
        Geoffrey Capes                   Bill Lash                       Mark Mitchell
        Mabel Duggan                     Mallory Lash                    Frank Longstaff
        Ethne Gibson

        October: The Annual Meeting was held at the home of Miss Dorothea Hay. After the election of officers,
        Rev. George Kinney showed sketches and slides of his mountaineering adventures, as an
        accompaniment to his amusing account of “Mountaineering in the Canadian Rockies.”

        December: The club met at the home of Misses Muriel and Aileen Aylard, where Rex Gibson showed
        slides of his trip to Britain and of Peyto Lake Camp.


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