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					                              QUALTITY ASSESSEMENT
                        OF THE MONGOLIAN CASHMERE FIBRE
                                     Sarangoo UKHNAA and Jean-Yves DREAN

     LPMT, 11, rue Alfred Werner, 68093 Mulhouse CEDEX, France. Email s.ukhnaa@uha.fr, jy.drean@uha.fr

Cashmere is one of the luxurious fibers used in the textile industry. It is a fine down fiber which is obtained by
combing fleece from a goat known as the “cashmere goat”. The structure and properties of the cashmere fiber
depend on the breeding area, the goat breed, its age and sex.
The physical and mechanical properties of the cashmere fiber from different breeding areas of Mongolia have
been investigated to assess the quality of the Mongolian cashmere fiber.
Five main breeding areas were selected and fifteen fiber samples were taken from goats of different ages and
types from the above mentioned areas. The suint and wax of our cashmere samples were removed by means of
Soxlet extraction. Vegetable matter, animal dandruff and guard hairs were manually drawn out.
The scale structure was examined by means of scanning electron microscopy. The two different scale shapes
were observed on the sample from “South Gobi”. Some fibers have regular, rectangular and long scales (Figure
1). However, we also found fibers with arrow head shaped scales in the same sample. These scales are short and
irregular (Figure 2). Na rrow and intermittent medulla was detected in the fiber structure of this sample.

           Figure 1. Fiber with rectangular                                 Figure 2. Fiber with arrow
                  and smooth scales                                            head shaped scales
The mean fiber diameter of our samples varied from 14.5 to 17.4 mic ron. According to the results of the
“Almeter” mean fiber length is between 25.6 and 42.9 mm. The short fiber ratio was relatively lower. The stress
ranged from 177 to 213 MPa. Its deformation was lightly higher (about 42%) than the values recorded by Martin
(Martin & Watson 1966). The “Stress-Strength Curve” of the cashmere fiber was similar to that of wool.

Experimental results of the fineness, length and energy at break of fifteen samples will be compared by means
of ANOVA. This analysis will allow us to assess the influence of goat age, type and breeding area on the quality
of Mongolian cashmere fiber.

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