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Rethinking the U.S.
“Textile Industry”
Subhash K. Batra
NCRC, NCSU, Raleigh, NC, USA
HCTAR, Cambridge, MA, USA
and
David Brookstein
Philadelphia University, Philadelphia, USA
HCTAR, Cambridge, MA, USA
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 1
The Problem
Public Image: “Textile industry is in demise.”
View supported by many economic studies.
Kiekens (AUTEX I) discussed the impact on textile
education; offered “European Strategy”
U.S. Response: Continually Evolving
1. TC*TC (1979 NSF study, 1981, DoC, labor unions, industry)
2. HCTAR (1990, Sloan Foundation)
3. NCRC (1991, NSF, NC, Industry)
4. NTC (1992, DoC…)
5. DoD initiatives, etc.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 2
Some Basic Questions
What is “fiber?” “textile?”
Fiber (fibra, ca. 1540): a unit of matter…flexibility, fineness, high
length/thickness (e.g. T I – broad agreement).
Min. length for spinnability requirements (e.g. ASTM) wood pulp
fiber, monofilaments, wires?
Textile (textilis, ca. 1626): a woven or knit cloth; fiber, filament, or
yarn used in making cloth (MW);…generally applied to: (1)
staple fibers and filaments…for conversion to or use as yarns, or
for…nonwoven fabrics, (2) yarns…from natural or manufactured
fibers, (3) fabrics and other…products made from fibers…, and
from yarns, and (4) garments and other articles…from one or
more of the above…, and…when the products retain the
flexibility and drape of the original fabrics.” And, as an adjective
the definition is: “of or pertaining to textiles.” (ASTM)
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 3
Confusion
…even among the learned, no unanimity on definition nor clarity on
what final products to include.
Why? The burden of history:
Weaving (basketry)…Neo. cultures of 5000 BC
Cotton, silk, wool, and flax fibers woven in Egypt, cotton in India
and silk in China by 3000 BC [EB]
Strings, ropes, nets, laces, knits followed.
Cottage industry – few tools much labor.
I R (1760-1840, England) ushered in steam power, factory
system, technological inventions…birth of the textile industry.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 4
History
Before WWII: 1. Raw material from natural sources; 2. All fiber
and end products consumed largely in clothing and furnishings.
Ergo: fibers included in the definition of textiles…nowhere else
to go.
Was the farming sector part of the textile industry? No.
Post WWII: chemical industry – regenerated-modified-
synthesized polymeric fiber industry.
Output focus: substitution market in textiles – inclusion in the
textile industry.
Post WWII, consolidation and expansion of the industry
…emergence of large multi-divisional conglomerates, etc.
Success of the manufactured fibers…broader range of
products/markets…inclusion under the ever expanding “textile
umbrella.” Ergo: complexity.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 5
History…
Self-Perception (NAE 1983)
Agriculture Chemical
Fiber Production Fiber
Exports
Non Textile
Uses Fiber
Natural Man Made Imports
Yarn Production
Textile Fabric Production Yarn
Mills Exports
Weaving Knitting Non-Woven Yarn
Imports
Dyeing and Finishing
Fabric
Apparel Home Industrial Exports
Furnishings (H. F.)
Fabric
Imports
Domestic Distribution
Wholesalers, Retailers
Exports
Exports
Imports
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 6
History…
Acquisition of political clout (Rose 2000)
Protection from international competition
A. Import tariffs (1961…) STA, LTA
B. Bilateral quota control MFA, etc.
And yet,
…deficit continues to grow.
(ATMI 2002) $60.76B in 2000, $62.46B in 2001; 5-6% textile, the
rest is clothing.
Enormous socio-economic impact – sad.
So what’s next?
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 7
Bad News/Good News
Bad News:
The imperative: continuing improvement in global human well being –
more even distribution of the economic pie – the international trade
disputes will continue – the U.S. textile industry, as we know it, will
continue to face competition…sheer market size of U.S. a strong
magnet.
Good News:
Per capita fiber consumption continues to grow: U.S. 88 lbs. (2000);
World average about 19 lbs. (2000); PRC about 14 lbs. (2000)
U.S. apparent fiber cons.: 24.3B lbs. (2000); mill fiber cons.: was
about 16B lbs. (Feb. 2000). [52%, apparel and furnishings (not c & r);
48% in c & r plus “industrial,” was 44% in 1995]
Data conservative…no glass, aramids, metal, fiber-optic, ceramic and
other specialty fibers.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 8
More Good News…
1. Dr. Aneja has made a compelling case for the
manufactured fiber industry.
2. Fibers can be engineered to “meet” specs.
3. Using them, products can be engineered to meet specs.
Evolution of fibers as engineering materials.
Looked at this way, the market for engineered fiber-based
products in 2000 was [Rigby 2002]:
Americas ~ 5.08MM tons (3.4% p.a. to 2010)
Global ~ 16.69MM tons (3.8% p.a. to 2010)
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 9
To gain a healthier perspective for
the future, we need a paradigm
shift.
The new paradigm:
We are in the business of
producing/engineering/sourcing
fibers and converting them into
products useful to society.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 10
In the New Paradigm:
(Product vs. Technology)
Fiber Industry
“Textile Industry”
Engineering with Fibers,
or
Fiber-Based Products Industry
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 11
Fiber Industry
Agriculture
Plants/Trees
Seed (cotton, kapok, coconut)
Stem/trunk (wood pulp, bast fibers, Manila hemp)
Leaves (sisal, henequen, …)
Animal hair (wool, cashmere, mohair, …)
Manufactured (MF)
Organic/Polymeric
Regenerated cellulose & derivatives (rayon, acetate, …)
Synthetic:
Aramids Nylons (N6, N66,…)
Acrylics/Modacrylics Polyesters
Polyolefins Carbon/Graphite
Elastomeric PLA, etc.
Inorganic
Glass (fiberglass, optical glass)
Metals (steel, copper, alloys…)
Ceramics
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 12
EwF: Nonwovens (Fiberwebs, etc.) EwF: Floor & EwF: Ropes,
Wall Coverings Cordage, Fishline
EwF: Reinforced “rigid” matrix EwF: Paper EwF:
composites Communication
Industry
EwF: Flexible Reinforced
Rubber Composites
Fiber EwF: Engineered/Structured
Fibrous Pre-Forms
EwF: Pneumatic
Industry (Yarns/Wovens/ Knits/Braids
for Comm. Apparel, Interiors
Tires/Tyres & other Structural Use)
“Textiles:” Wovens, Knits, Braids, etc. for Consumer Apparel
& Residential Interiors
* EwF: Reinforced “Rigid” Composites: As defined by FEB in 66 b. *EwF: Ropes, Cordage, Fishline,
etc. As defined by FEB in 70 but include all ropes including marine ropes. *EwF: Floor & Wall Coverings: As
defined by FEB in 51,52. *EwF: Pneumatic Tires: As defined by FEB in 63. *EwF: Flexible, Reinforced
Rubber Composites: As defined by FEB in 64, 65. *EwF: Paper: Wetlaid wood pulp. * “Textiles:”
Fabrics made by weaving, knitting, braiding, etc. (not nonwovens) for consumer apparel & accessories and
residential furnishings. *EwF: yarns/wovens/knits/braids for engineered structural use, commercial interiors &
apparel designed to meet strict, objectively measurable (engineering or performance) specifications. *Flexible,
Reinforced Rubber Composites: As defined by FEB 64, 65. * Reinforced “Rigid” Composites: Relatively
hard matrix reinforced by fibers, and/or precursor EwF structures, and/or Nonwovens.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 13
Justification?
Existence of independent trade unions, expressing divergent interests.
1. INDA is trade association of the nonwovens industry.
2. TAPPI is association for professionals working in the pulp and paper
industry; it also often serves as a trade association.
3. IFAI is a broad umbrella organization with the following divisions:
American Casual Furniture Fabric Association
Automotive Textiles, Plastics and Coatings Association
Banner & Flag Association
Geo-synthetic Materials Association
Marine Fabricators Association
Narrow Fabrics Institute
Professional Awning Manufacturers Association
Safety & Protective Products Division
Tent Rental Division
Truck Cover & Tarp Association
United States Industrial Fabrics Institute
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 14
Justification? (continued)
4. ATMI…represents “mill firms which operate machinery in the United
States for the manufacture or processing of textile products (except
those who produce man-made fibers and yarn by a chemical
process).”
5. AFMA “is the trade association for U.S. companies that manufacture
synthetic and cellulosic fibers.”
6. Carpet and Rug Institute “is the national trade association
representing the carpet and rug industry.”
7. Dalton Floor Covering Market Association is an “association who’s
goal is to market industry member services to the world.”
8. The National Cotton Council and Cotton Incorporated, semi-
governmental organizations devoted to the promotion of cotton and
protecting interests of the cotton farmers.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 15
The schema recognizes fibers as engineering materials.
Broadens the scope of the “Fiber Industry.”
Restricted definition of “Textiles,” recognizes the economic
importance of the other fiber-based products industries or
“Engineering with Fibers Industry” and frees them from the
instabilities and turmoil of the “textile-apparel” connection.
Could facilitate better understanding of the supply chain
relationships and strategic planning.
Could provide educational institutions a better paradigm view for
developing appropriate & focused programs to meet the human
resource needs of the selected segments of the industry.
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 16
Could facilitate development of the relevant design science…to
gain competitive advantage in the market place.
Need: a great deal more study and debate.
Lead vs. follow.
Join us.
(subhash_batra@ncsu.edu; brooksteind@philau.edu)
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 17
“Nothing will ever be attempted if all possible objections must be first
overcome.” (Samuel Johnson)
“Truth is ever to be found in the simplicity, and not in the multiplicity and
confusion of things.” (Sir Isaac Newton)
“A man with a new idea is a crank – until he succeeds.” (Mark Twain)
“Thus, the task is, not so much to see what no one has yet seen; but to
think what nobody has yet thought, about that which everybody sees.”
(Erwin Schrodinger)
“There must be no barriers to freedom on inquiry. There is no place for
dogma in science. The scientist is free, and must be free to ask any
question, to doubt any assertion, to seek for any evidence, to correct
any errors.” (J. Robert Oppenheimer)
Batra & Brookstein, 2002 Autex II 18
