PYE CANINE ACADEMY - DOC by gabyion

VIEWS: 68 PAGES: 11

									                             PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974     1
                                   9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                 Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9




                        PYEPEKE
                   GOLDEN RETRIEVERS
                       (Reg’d 1974)




Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                 PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974     2
                                       9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                     Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9




CONTRACT OF SALE                              PAGE 3

INTRODUCTION                                  PAGE 4

MEDICAL HISTORY                               PAGE 4 & 5

HOUSEBREAKING                                 PAGE 5

FEEDING                                        PAGE5&6

GROOMING                                      PAGE 6

BEHAVIOR                                      PAGE 6
   &
TRAINING                                      PAGE 7

GENERAL INFORMATION                           PAGE 7

NUTRITION                                     PAGE 7

WORMS & PARASITES                             PAGE 8

VACCINES & HOUSETRAINING                      PAGE 9

CHEWING                                       PAGE 10

TRAINING & GEN. INFO                          PAGE 11

RECOMMENDED READING                           PAGE 12

OTHER GENERAL INFORMATION:
Is your household safe?
Puppy proofing your house,
Household poisonous plants
Antifreeze poisoning
Crate training the pup
Biting prevention
Carsickness
Super Dogs
Von Willebrand‟s disease
Immunization
Introduction to the Golden Retriever
Breeding?




Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                       3
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9



                         Contract of Sale for PET, SHOW & BREEDING Rights

Date of sale……………………………………… …………………………………

Description of dog: D.O.B. ……………………….TATTOO (RE) PKX……….. ….

Sire:………………………………, Dam: ………………………………………..…………

Name of Buyer: ………………………………………………………………………………………..

Address-……………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Telephone: ……………………...Deposit ……………………………….Date …………………………………..

Balance…Paid In .full $………………………….…………………………………..Cash () Cheque ()

I have received payment in full from the buyer for the dog described above. I guarantee that this animal is a
purebred GOLDEN RETRIEVER that is in good health at the time of sale. This Puppy has been examined by our
Veterinarian; inoculated, tattooed & will be registered with the Canadian Kennel Club on a Non Breeding
Agreement (form #201E) which the Buyer agrees to sign. The registration papers will be forwarded when received
from the CKC. The Buyer shall have 48 hr. from the date of sale to have the puppy examined by a Veterinarian of
his/her choice. (This is exclusive of the free examination offered by our Vet) If the puppy is found to be unhealthy,
the puppy must be returned to us immediately and the full purchase price shall be returned, or the Breeder will
replace the Puppy upon return of the affected animal. This puppy is guaranteed against any abnormal temperament
problems as well as any genetic defects that would render the dog non-certifiable for hips & eyes. Hereditary
defects must be confirmed in writing by a qualified Veterinarian & verified by the breeders Veterinarian. If no
puppy is available within one year; then the full purchase price will be refunded. This option must be decided within
the first (2) two years. The puppy will be returned to breeder if so deemed. The Non-Breeding agreement may be
canceled providing: (1) The above dog has obtained its first obedience title of Companion Dog- CD, or its Canadian
Championship-Ch (2) PennHip, OVC or OFA clearances. (3) The eyes cleared by a licensed Veterinary
Opthamologist. (4) Payment of an additional fee of $***** ( ) to be determined at time of sale. This can be
determined at a later date! If the dog does not pass the above medical exams; the additional breeders fee of $*****
will be returned. (if paid at time of sale) The Buyer agrees that this animal shall be kept clean, healthy and well
cared for at all times; and shall never be subjected to inhumane or negligent treatment. This dog will be kept in a
proper, adequate dog run or fenced yard and not left unattended or tied out; nor will it be left out in extremes of
temperature at any time. All progeny from the above dog or bitch will be sold with an agreement similar to this
contract; plus a CKC NON-BREED AGREEMENT (form # 201E). If for any reason the buyer decides to give-up
this dog; the breeder will be given first choice to purchase the dog at the original price of $*****. Unless, the dog is
in poor condition; in which case the purchase price will be appropriately reduced. If the Breeder does not want to
exercise this option, the new owner must sign & agree to all conditions of this contract & sign the CKC NON-
BREED AGREEMENT. (Form # 201E)

Breeder____________________________Terrence Pye

Witness                            Date …………………………..

Buyer: __________________________________




Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                      4
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9

                                            THE GOLDEN RETRIEVER

    A true retriever type sporting dog! The Golden Retriever‟s job is to find and retrieve game shot down either on
land or water. They are most helpful in finding wounded birds, & retrieving them. The Goldens appearance is what
distinguishes it from the other retrieving breeds. Their beautiful gold coat, dark brown eyes, aristocratic carriage,
feathering, cleanliness, and waterproof coat make them a most desirable hunting companion and family pet.

    The origin of this breed is not completely known. It is generally accepted that in England during the 1860‟s,
cross breeding resulted in the Golden Retriever. They appeared in America during the early 1900‟s. Since their first
entry, their performance in field trials has been outstanding. In 1932, the Golden Retriever was registered with the
American Kennel Club under it‟s own classification and has done well in Show & Obedience Trials ever since.
Taking to obedience work easily, they are popular entries in obedience trials. The popularity of this breed has grown
continually since 1932, undoubtedly because of its good looks, fine personality, and performance as a hunting
companion.
    As pets they are superb. Affectionate, obedient, easily trained, good with children and most attractive. Moderate
grooming will keep them sharp in appearance. As a sporting dog, a good daily walk is essential to keep them fit.
They make good watchdogs, as well.
    All puppies are sold with a certificate of pedigree and a general brochure covering diet, grooming, health care &
training etc. As modern technology is forever changing; so are grooming, feeding & training techniques. Direct your
questions to professionals in the field. Advice from a good friend may be well meant; but could cause more
problems in the end!
   All puppies are checked by our Veterinarian, vaccinated, tattooed, dewormed and registered
with the Canadian Kennel Club under a Non Breeding Agreement (form #201E). You will also
receive a two-year written guarantee from PYEPEKE KENNELS. I myself will pick his/her
registered name. You will receive your puppies Registration Certificate when received from the
CKC.
   Please contact us if you have any questions concerning this most versatile breed, or queries regarding the
content of this brochure.

MEDICAL HISTORY
Your puppy was born May 21st 2002. He/she turned 7 weeks of age on the 9th day of July 2002. 49 to 112 days (7-
12 weeks) are the most critically important times in a puppy‟s life. According to animal behaviorists, this is the time
that they will remember any bad experiences; as well, it will be set into the puppies attitudes as to what and how he
is trained in particular, his attitudes towards, humans are established. A puppy that has been properly socialized and
          -


trained during this period will be easier to train as he matures.

                                IT IS EASIER TO PREVENT A PROBLEM
                                  THAN IT IS TO CURE A PROBLEM!
Whelped                                   August 8th 2003………………
Dewclaws removed                          August 14th………………
1st worming                               September 4, 2003………………..
2nd worming                               September 12th 2003……………..
3rd worming                              September 22 nd 2003………………
Veterinary examination & vaccines         September 22nd 2003……………….
Tattooing                                September 23 rd 2003……………….




Upon receiving your puppy, (or before) you should immediately establish a reporte with a reputable Veterinarian.
He/she will guide you with his recommendations to maintain a happy, healthy pup. We recommend the following
vaccines - which of course are followed up with the necessary boosters. Distemper Hepatitis, Leptospirosis,

Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                       5
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9

Parinfluenza, Parvovirus, Corona, Rabies and Bordatella. The latter is particularly important if your dog is going to
be around others i.e. boarding kennels, grooming shops & obedience classes. I would keep my puppy away from
ALL other dogs until his vaccines have had a chance to build up some immunity.

HOUSE BREAKING
     Your friends will want to offer much advice on this topic! These are my suggestions and recommendations.
Each home will have a different schedule - establish one & stick to it. Each puppy should be confined to his own
crate (wire or plastic), large enough for him to turn around and lie down comfortably. Too large a crate will allow
him room to lie at one end & mess at the other end. This becomes his bed, home or den, 24 hr. a day. Animals will
not mess in their own beds - unless YOU have done something wrong!

1.   Take outside immediately in the morning. (On leash)
2.   Take outside immediately after each meal. (On leash)
3.   Take outside immediately after each nap. (On leash)
4.   Take outside before retiring at night. (On leash) PRAISE YOUR DOG‟S EVERY SUCCESS!

     Stay with the puppy when you TAKE him out until he has eliminated. If you let him out alone, he is likely
to just want to be with you & to come in before he has gone. Do not be impatient or hurry him. I like to use the
words “HURRY UP” or HURRY, HURRY as I walk him around in a circle. That way he is trained to eliminate “On
Command”! Most dogs‟ bowels move at least twice before they have completed elimination. A dog likes to go in
the same area where he has gone before. By taking him directly to this area, (away from the back step) you will save
a lot of time.

NO water 4 hours before his last trip outside at night

    After feeding, playing or training - he must be returned to his crate. At NO time should he have the run of the
house. He should be loose only when he is being closely supervised; otherwise he is to be returned to his own
„house‟. Only when you are 100% confident can you relax these rules.

I...Terry Pye, GUARANTEE RESULTS BY USING THIS METHOD.

THE ROLLED UP NEWSPAPER METHOD!
    I am a firm believer that there are NO BAD DOGS; only people who don‟t understand what has gone wrong. If
an accident happens: read pg.5 of these notes and ask yourself “WHAT HAVE “I” DONE WRONG”? Then bash
yourself over the head with the newspaper!!!!

FEEDING YOUR PUPPY
     Your puppy has been fed a top quality dog food, which is PURINA PRO PLAN Chicken & Rice Growth
                                                                                            -


Formula. He presently eats approx. 1 cup, 3 times per day. We suggest that you continue that schedule until he is 4-
5 months of age; then change to twice a day for the REST of his life. For the adult dog I feed 2/3 of his meal in the
AM (2cups) & 1/3 PM. (1 cup). I also switch to adult food around 5-6 months. The condition of your dogs‟ stools is
the best indicator of his health. They should always be „firm‟. By feeding a quality food, you will feed less &
supplements won‟t be necessary. Cheap food will cost you more in the end! My adults get only 3 cups per day total!
     I give Brewers Yeast tablets fortified with Garlic. (If I think there is a problem with fleas). This is done to aid
in the control of fleas. It‟s harmless, effective & all „natural‟. As your puppy grows, you can judge how much to
feed. I leave it down for about 10 minutes. If he finishes it, I add a little next time. If he leaves food, I cut back.
Never leave food around during non-meal times. Besides making him picky & finicky, this would only encourage
obesity & makes him more difficult to house train. Adding a little water to the dog‟s food is good for his digestive
system. Dogs should have fresh water available at all times. In the case of puppies: NO WATER FROM 4 HOURS
BEFORE HIS LAST TRIP OUT AT NIGHT.
    There is a lot of other food that a dog can eat. Some scraps won‟t do him any harm; some can be very harmful.
We all hate to throw out good food. If your puppy is NOT overweight & if he still eats his regular dog food & stools

Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                     6
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9

remain firm; then it won‟t hurt to give him a little with his food. It should never be more than about 10% of his
meal? If he starts getting fussy, cut it out.

DO NOT OVERFEED if you cannot feel his ribs easily, he is over weight!
                         -


Milk bones are good for his teeth, canned food isn‟t.
Ice cubes make good treats - no calories.
Definitely no chocolate – it can be fatal!
Definitely no bones - especially chop, steak, chicken or fish. BONES CAN & WILL KILL!!!
Absolutely no fresh milk -guaranteed diarrhea!

GROOMING
1. Toe nails: if you take a little off every two weeks, they will never get out of hand. How much depends on the
   dog‟s environment Get professional advice if you‟re in doubt.

2.   Body & Feathering: brush every few days with a rake & slicker brush. The coat of a Golden almost never
     needs trimming. Ears, hocks, pasterns & feet need doing professionally about every 3 months if you want to
     keep him looking at his breed standard best.

3.   Burdocks & burrs: these nasty little critters will come out easily if you crush them with a pair of pliers first,
     then use a little cooking oil & brush them out

4.   Tar & gum: Vaseline, cooking oil, margarine & a cloth. With patience it should wipe out.

5.   Ears: should be pink & shiny - you can also smell problem ears! Check weekly & clean with a cotton ball or Q
     tips – a little mineral oil or buy an ear cleaner. Consult your Vet if the problem persists.

6.   Bathing: a well-brushed Golden needs very little bathing. Bath only when he starts to smell “doggy”; or if he
     rolls in manure or grease (as only dogs love to do)! Professional grooming every few months will keep him
     looking his most handsome best.

BEHAVIOR & TRAINING
1. Puppies will & do chew anything & everything. This is absolutely normal & is the reason why he shouldn‟t be
scolded too severely! They are teething; just as a human baby chews his knuckles & soother; your puppy has to
chew. SUGGESTIONS: Say NO, take away the item & substitute with something he can chew i.e. knotted rope,
                                                                                                       -


knotted wool socks, or rawhide. If it‟s a piece of furniture say, NO, move the pup & substitute. If he persists in
chewing - put him in his crate. This is another case where keeping the dog in his crate when he is not being
supervised will pay-off in tremendous rewards. Peace of mind is worth a MILLION DOLLARS! In otherwords,
“MANAGE THE PROBLEM!” Do not blame the dog!!!

2. Puppy jumps on everyone - he‟s cute & lovable at 7 weeks & even at 3 months; but at 10
months he is a 7Olb hazard! It‟s very annoying - so stop it before it gets out of hand. At first tell
him “OFF”, step back, keep your hands off the dog, turn your back & ignore for 15-20 secs. Do
this 3-4 times & be ready to reward him when he sits! This requires patience & perseverance,
but you will succeed his tail will be wagging as you see him start offering sits for greeting
instead of jumping up. Fold arms across chest as a cue!
3. Puppy does not COME when called - three times a day as you feed him, move around with his dish, walk the
length of the room or across the yard - say Rover “COME”, COME ON, GOOD PUPPY - kneel down, praise
profusely & offer him some food. Whenever you call him to you, praise him for coming. Kneel down & welcome
him & all his kisses. If he hesitates (he knows your not carrying his food dish) turn & run away from him. He‟ll love
the game & he will be right there. NEVER PUNISH YOUR DOG IF HE STARTED TO COME. Don‟t let children
use that command as a toy or game when playing with the puppy - too much repetition, not enough reward. You
will then have to re-train & that will be harder.
Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                     7
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9


4. DOWN command. This is one of the most useful & needed of all the commands! A dog lying down can‟t get
into too much trouble. First, know what it means! “DOWN” means to lie on the floor. When he is on the furniture or
puts his feet on counter, say “OFF”, not down. “OFF” means all four feet on the floor. You may start teaching the
down fairly soon. If he is sitting - put your left hand on his shoulder & the right hand behind his front legs - say
“DOWN” & slide his front feet out from under him & praise with Good Boy as you hold him in position. Do this
several times daily & he will start responding within a couple of weeks. Be gentle, fair but firm. Command only
once. At around 3 months, train him to stay down in position for ½ hour every 2nd day. Do while watching TV,
reading etc., concentrate on the training. NO treats, toys, or petting. Praise when finished.

5. The “STAY” command. Do it with the sit & down command you must enforce it or it is useless. Don‟t be too
                                                                    -


harsh with a puppy & don‟t expect him to do it for too long. Have someone hold him while you put his food out &
telling him to stay for about 5 seconds then let him go!

6. Generally, Male dogs of any breed take a little longer to housebreak. They will also „test‟ any boundaries of
behavior more than the female.
                                  IGNORE BAD BEHAVIOR
                                  PRAISE GOOD BEHAVIOR

GENERAL INFORMATION
1. No rough - play.
2. No tug-a-war type games.
3. No barking or biting - discourage this NOW
4. Do not ever hit your puppy with your hand or object
5. A Golden responds very well to verbal corrections - for more serious crimes, put puppy away for a time out.
Don‟t yell or shout!!! Get/ask for professional help. If necessary use the „rolled up newspaper‟, yes, you guessed it,
„Hit yourself over the head‟!!!

NEVER EVER LEAVE YOUNG CHILDREN UN-ATTENDED PLAYING WITH A PUPPY. ALL
CHILDREN LIKE TO TEASE & TORMENT. Yes, even yours!!!
     The following information I have gathered from various breeders etc. Some of the next information might
contradict some of my own feelings & ideas. But, the more different ideas that you can read & learn might help you
solve a problem. Not all ideas work for every dog. NO ONE is a total expert on every problem that can arise in the
care of an animal. The information below is general and some of the problems may not apply to your dog.

NUTRITION
    Your puppy has been eating a high quality ration. It is important at this time while he is developing that the
food be of a high nutritional standard. Grocery store type dog food may be a little cheaper; consequently the quality
is generally not there! Feeds like Iams, Ukanuba and Science Diet Growth are excellent & require no vitamin
supplementation. Don‟t let everyone selling dog foods get to you! What they are selling is the best „in their
opinion‟! If you change, do so gradually by mixing the two. In my experience it is hard to beat Purina „Pro Plan‟.
    Puppies need to be fed several times daily and some owners may find that they can regulate their intake on their
own by feeding „free choice‟. NOT RECOMMENDED BY ME!
    Water is extremely important to your puppy. All of their body tissues are high in water content. Fresh clean
water should be available at all times.

WORMS or PARASITES
    Pet owners often underrate the presence of worms of various types in pets. Worms, especially in the young
animal, may cause severe anemia, retarded growth, severe and often bloody diarrhea and a lowered resistance to
infection of any type. Young animals are especially susceptible to the effects of worms. As an animal matures, a
degree of resistance develops.
    The major worm types found in dogs are Roundworms, Hookworms, Whipworms, Tapeworms and Coccidia.

Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                      8
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9

Any other types of intestinal parasites are seldom seen in this area.
     How does my dog contact these parasites? Worms produce eggs that are passed into the bowel movements.
These worms are not visible to the naked eye. In many cases, these may be passed directly onto other pets in food or
water. In the case of the tapeworm, the eggs are passed to an intermediate host such as a flea or a mouse, where the
egg develops. The pet then must eat one of these hosts to become infected. The most common source of worms in
the pup or kitten is from the mother some across the placental barrier prior to birth, and some via the milk as well
                                     -


as from the contaminated environment. The mother may not have enough worms present to cause her problems, but
in the defenseless newborn, these few multiply rapidly.

Identification
1. Routine fecal (stool) checks in which the bowel material is broken down and worm eggs may be detected under
the microscope. Each worm type produces an egg with characteristics of it‟s own and so both the number & type of
worms may be detected.
2. Identifying intact worms passed in stool or vomit, or noting the presence of tapeworm segments sticking to the
hair around the rectum (these are rice-like segments about ¼” long and will move if still alive. These segments are
packets that contain many tapeworm eggs.
Treatment
     The treatment necessary depends on the type of worms present. Each type has a specific medication that will
properly eliminate it from the bowel. The space between dewormings varies with the migratory pattern of the worm
in the body.
     In the case of tapeworms, a good control measure is to eliminate the intermediate hosts. Keep your pet free of
fleas and reduce his exposure to rodents. Picking up fresh stools and maintaining good hygiene in the run or yard
will also help!
     Most commonly puppies are affected by roundworms. The pup you have just acquired has been well dewormed
at this point in a program designed to minimize worm burden and help to produce the happy healthy dog that he is.
Ask your own Veterinarian about any further deworming procedures.

EXTERNAL PARASITES
     Fleas are the primary external parasites that give us most problems. Occasionally, we also see ticks and ear
mites. Even though your puppy has neither of these latter two, I will make mention of them.
1. Ticks may be picked up outside. They are a blood-sucking parasite and hold onto the body with pincher like
claws. It is important that these pincers do not remain in the dog when the tick is removed. A good Flea & Tick
spray or powder will aid in tick removal.
2. Ear mites are primarily a problem in cats, but occasionally we do see them in dogs as well. These again are
easily treated with a topical miticide especially prepared for the ear.
3. Fleas are problem most pet owners have at one time or another. We have a brochure that deals with this
problem. Again ask your Vet what he or she recommends if you get into this problem. Remember that your puppy
may not be able to handle the insecticides in flea & tick products!

VACCINATIONS
     There are several diseases in dogs caused by organisms collectively grouped as viruses. Viruses are not
treatable with antibiotic agents. Veterinarians will sometimes „cover‟ an animal that has a viral infection with
antibiotics to prevent invasion of bacteria into tissues already damaged by the virus. The only other treatment is
supportive therapy designed to maintain the animals‟ water hydration status (fluids). Vaccinations serve to stimulate
immunity in the animal so that if he comes in contact with the common viral agents, he will be able to successfully
fight it off.
     In your health record folder, you may read about several of the viruses that affect dogs. Your puppy has
received an initial vaccination. The plan outlined is the one used at our clinic. Your Veterinarian may have a slightly
different program. Irrespective of this, it is important to have your puppy boostered to continue with yearly
vaccinations & check-ups for the rest of his life.
     P.s. There is a vaccine for Canine Cough called Bordatella. Most Veterinarians don‟t „push‟ this because they
have to charge a little extra. PLEASE ask & insist.

Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                     9
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9


HOUSE-TRAINING: A NON-PUNITIVE APPROACH
     This approach to house training is non-punitive, and will allow easy house-training without trauma to you or
your dog.
     Consistency is important in establishing a housetraining schedule. Establish a daily (weekdays & weekends)
routine of feeding, watering, walking, and training with your pup. He will quickly learn the schedule, and adjust his
own activities accordingly.
     When you are not able to watch your puppy, he should be confined to a small area where it will be easy to clean
up after him. We recommend a crate or other similar form of confinement. Puppies will not normally soil their
sleeping area (that is, as soon as they have complete sphincter control: at about 12-15 weeks), so the confined area
should be only large enough for him to stand up and turn around. A larger area will only encourage him to separate
it into a sleeping and toilet area. Puppies must eliminate upon waking, after eating or drinking, during or after play
and training; or whenever he indicates the need by sniffing around. Take him out to the same spot every time he has
to go. The previous scent will encourage him to relieve himself. Don‟t forget to praise him when he goes in the
proper spot
     If you catch your puppy going in an improper spot, DO NOT YELL OR PUNISH him. Take a soft object (i.e.:
bean bag or similar soft item and toss it near enough to startle him. This will stop the elementary reflex, allowing
you to pick him up and put him out to finish in the proper area. If you find a mess in the house, wait until he is
watching you and then show your distaste for the mess (not the pup). Shoo him away and clean it up, do not let him
see you cleaning it up.
     Do not use an ammonia-based cleaner to clean up, as this will attract your pup back to the same spot. Use
specially prepared dog urine cleaner (available at pet stores), or douse the spot with white vinegar.
     We recommend that the pup sleep in his crate in your room at nite. His restlessness when he has to go will wake
you, and you can take him out. Remove his water well before bedtime or when leaving him alone during the day;
and make sure he has relieved himself before retiring. The removal of the water will help to avoid triggering the
elementary reflex when not desirable.

Stick with the same food during the housebreaking period. Changing diet can cause digestive upset, making it more
difficult for the puppy to control his elementary reflex. After he is housetrained, you can change foods if you want.
    When extremely excited or frightened, the pup will sometimes urinate without warning. This is known as
“Submissive Urination”, and will stop as the puppy matures. DO NOT YELL, SHOUT OR SCOLD him, just
quietly clean it up.

CHEWING
          Destructive chewing is probably one of the most common complaints among dog owners. Understanding
the dog‟s instinctive need to chew, and being able to effectively channel this behavior is the key to preventing much
of the damage, which can occur.
          Puppies need something hard to chew on while their teeth and jaws are developing. The first teething
period, which occurs at 3 to 4 months of age, happens when the puppy teeth are falling out and the permanent teeth
are cutting through the gums. The second teething period, at 7 to 9 months of age, occurs when the permanent teeth
are settling into the jawbones. At both of these stages, the puppy must chew to insure normal tooth and jaw
development. The adult dog‟s desire to chew stems from the need to clean his teeth, massage gums and exercise the
jaw. Often dogs will chew after eating. At other times, chewing can be used as an outlet for frustrations caused by
loneliness, boredom or anxiety.
          The need to chew is instinctual, therefore, no matter how hard you may try; eliminating the behavior is
impossible. Thus it is up to you, the owner to provide the puppy or dog with something suitable to chew on. Strong,
natural bones may serve your dog‟s teething needs, but can wear down the enamel on the dog‟s teeth. Also the bone
can splinter, causing digestive upset and possibly death. Rawhide chews do not effectively serve the primary
chewing function, do not last, and can cause intestinal blockage if eaten in large pieces. The best recommendation is
to provide your dog with a Nylabone or Nylaball. They last a long time and do not splinter. Make sure that you
choose the proper size for your dog so that he will not be able to swallow it. Only one chew toy is recommended. If
you provide him with several toys, he will have trouble discriminating between acceptable and unacceptable chew

Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                      PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                      10
                                            9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                          Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9

items. Even with the proper chew toy, puppies will try other things to chew on and left unchecked this will result in
destruction of household items. If you catch your puppy chewing on something undesirable, say “Stop It” firmly,
remove the taboo object, and give him his own toy and praise warmly. Puppies and young dogs should not be left
unsupervised in the house. Like children, they are apt to get into trouble. There are NO BAD DOGS!!!
          Confine your puppy when you are unable to watch him. A crate is the only acceptable means of
confinement. Shutting a teething puppy or young dog in one room will only mean damaged furniture, woodwork, or
even torn linoleum.
          If you start early, teaching your puppy what he can and cannot chew; a problem will never develop. In this
case, an ounce of prevention is definitely worth the pound of cure!

TRAINING & OBEDIENCE
          There are many books written on dog training. We can recommend some to you; & will list a few that
come to mind at the end of this article. We offer class training as well as private training. I recommend the class
training as it trains you to train your dog. But, if you are too busy to spend the time & make the commitment; then
private training can be quite effective. We are only too happy to talk to you about this very important subject
          Our method of training is called Operant Conditioning. We use a „clicker‟ that tells the dog „Hey, I like
what you just did! The click is followed by a treat. It is All Positive Rewards training. NO choke collars, pinch
collars, no compulsion, no aversives or corrections are used. Ask & I can forward further information, as well as
trainers in your area!
Your dog will be a large dog. His parents have been certified clear of hip dysplaysia. This disease is greatly affected
by environmental factors. To prevent your dog from becoming overweight and/or slow down his growth; it may be
wise to put him on adult food at around 5 months of age. As well, exercising is important to develop strong muscles.
Your pup should not be encouraged to jump from high heights or jump up in the air after sticks. Keep his feet on the
ground, as the force of concussion from a jump is hard on the developing hip joint.

         Housetraining is time consuming and important and will be included in any dog training books. As in all
things - consistency and gentle firmness will produce results. You have just acquired a puppy with an engaging
personality as well as intelligence. Good Luck!

One Final Note: If you are not going to be using your dog for breeding purposes; spaying may be done at about 6
months. There is no benefit in letting her have a heat or a litter of pups. If she is spayed prior to her 3rd heat, the
incidence of mammary tumors is greatly diminished. Males may be neutered between 6-8 months. This will make
no difference to your dogs‟ ability or eligibility in obedience trials. (Warning - don‟t do this if you are interested in
showing your dog in conformation for his show championship)!

Recommended reading: please, I‟m sure you are aware that it would be impossible to list all the countless excellent
books that have & will be written in „dogdom‟! I have around 75 + Video‟s

THE GOLDEN RETRIEVER: JEFFERY PEPPER

TRAINING YOUR DOG THE „STEP BY STEP METHOD‟: Volhard/Fisher

BIRD WORK: Stephen Rafe

WATER DOG: Wolters

NO BAD DOGS: Barbara Woodhouse

HOW TO BE YOUR DOGS BEST FRIEND: Jobe Michel Evans

GOOD OWNERS, GREAT DOGS: Brian Kilcommons/Sarah Wilson Video & Book.     -




Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
                                     PYEPEKE KENNELS REG’D 1974                                                   11
                                           9 Tripp Settlement Rd.
                                         Keswick Ridge NB E6L 1V9

THE CULTURE CLASH: Jean Donaldson, a MUST READ! A Canadian out of Montreal
The number one rated book by behaviorists around the world.
Her newest book, “Dogs Are From Neptune”. Solutions to solving behaviour problems! (I have some of these
in stock)

Don’t Shoot The Dog, Karen Pryor. A must read for Clicker Training
Clicker training is the new „wave‟ sweeping across the country/world! If you don‟t like the idea of yelling, yanking,
jerking & berating; then this is for you. Ask for a demonstration by myself or find a trainer in your area that has
some knowledge in this most interesting area of training!
          There are several Web sites & Clicker Lists. Send me an Email I will send you several addresses & Web
sites. These are all free. At these sites you can order clickers, books & videos right off the Internet.

         *Be sure to check out PYE CANINE ACADEMY‟s new website for pictures, additional information on
training & behaviour problems.

TerryTheDogman
PYE CANINE ACADEMY
Training, Consulting & Breeding
PYE K9 KAPERS-Agility
CKC Agility Rep. NB
Can Ass. Of Obedience Trial Judges
Canadian Kennel Club (Life)
River Valley Obedience Club (Life)
Maritime Golden Retriever Club
F‟ton Area Golden Ret. Rescue
pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca
www.pyecanine.com

PYE CANINE ACADEMY has its own webpage, check it out – ask us about PYE K9 KAPERS – our dog Agility
Club!


PYE K9 KAPERS
Dog Agility Club
9 Tripp Settlement, Rd.
Keswick Ridge, E6L 1V9
506-363-4623
k9kapers@nbnet.nb.ca
www.k9kapers.ca




Phone/fax 506-363-4623
Homepage www.pyecanine.com
Email pyek9@nbnet.nb.ca

								
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