Lapel with Notched Collar Collar Back Facing Bodice Back Bodice Front Front Facing Lapel Pattern Pieces Bodice Back Bodice Front Front Facing To cut the bodice back on the fold, remove the back seam allowance. The lapel extension on the front is the under lapel on the finished garment. The lapel extension on the front facing will be the outside (public) lapel on the finished garment. The lapel folds back placing the facing on the outside and the lapel on the bodice front on the underside. To cut this piece on the fold, remove the center back seam allowance. The collar patterns is both the under collar and the outside (public) collar. To cut on the fold, remove the center back seam allowance. You will need two complete collars cut from fabric. Back Facing Collar 1 2 1 2 3 1 2 Guide to Markings 1 2 3 Neck Dot Collar Dot Shoulder Notch Marking the Pattern Pieces Bodice Front Front Facing Collar Mark the neck dot (1) and the collar dot (2). Mark the neck dot (1) and the collar dot (2). Mark the neck dot (1), the collar dot (2) and the shoulder notch (3). Clip Stay stitch the torso lapel, and the facing on the sewing line 1 inch either side of the neck dot. Stitch to the dot, pivot and turn and stitch 1 inch along the neck edge. Clip from neck corner edge to neck dot. Sewing the Lapel Collar 1 2 3 4 Mark dots on the wrong side of the torso lapel, facing lapel and both collar pieces. Mark shoulder notch on collar. See marking guide. Sew the front and back bodice together at the shoulder seams. Press open. Sew the back neck facing to the front neck facing at the shoulder. Press open. On the torso lapel, stay stitch on the sewing line 1 inch either side of the neck dot. Stitch to the dot, pivot and turn and stitch 1 inch along the neck edge. See stay stitching guide. Repeat for the facing lapel. Clip from the corner to the dot. Do not clip through the stitching. Standard Construction Quick Construction This method is suitable for light weight fabrics. Sew the two collar pieces together from collar dot, around the outside edge to the other collar dot. You are sewing the edge that does NOT have the shoulder notch. 5 6 Pin the under collar to the torso lapel right sides together matching the dots on the collar to the dots on the lapel. Match the shoulder mark on the collar to the shoulder seam on the torso and pin. Pin the remainder of the neck edge as needed. 7 Sew the collar to the neck edge from neck dot Clip collar seam allowance at collar dot. Turn to neck dot. and press. The seam allowance should extend down starting at the dot. See Fig. 7 Sew from the neck dot to the collar dot on each side of the collar. Press seams open. Pin collar to torso, matching dots and shoulder mark. Baste the collar to the torso from dot to dot. 8 9 Attach the upper collar to the facing as above. Pin the facing to the torso matching dots and shoulder mark. Sew together at front and neck edge. Open and press. 10 Pin the facing & collar piece to the torso & collar piece right sides together. It is important the dots match. 11 Starting at the collar dot sew around the collar to the other collar dot. 12 Starting at the collar dot sew the facing to the torso. Repeat for other side. Fig. 7 Print the pattern pieces at 50% and practice this technique. Once you’ve done it a couple of times it will be easy.
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