Mtn. Tamer Suspension Adjustments Set-Up Instructions by oss17616

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									                                                   Timbersled Products                                                      Page 1 of 2
                                                  416 Larkspur St.
                                                  Ponderay, ID. 83852


                                                  Web Site: www.timbersled.com                        Phone:   (208) 255-5644
                                                  E-mail: timbersled@timbersled.com                   Fax:     (208) 255-5924



       Mtn. Tamer Suspension Adjustments & Set-Up Instructions




Understand How the Mtn. Tamer Suspension Works:
The biggest benefits of the Mtn. Tamer design is that it puts even pressure on the snow between the front and back portion of the
suspension. This is achieved by our rear arm slide mechanism and the mounting position of the shocks. The slide mechanism
couples the back portion of the suspension to the front at a specific spot in the range of travel. At this point the suspension will
travel straight up into the tunnel, reducing the track angle and applying the sleds weight toward the front, pulling it on top of the
snow.
Knowing the 5 Adjustment Points on the Suspension:
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1 Limiter Strap: The limiter straps are only adjustable from one end (the top). The lower end must be fastened around the limiter
strap cross shaft and in-between the 3 alignment spacers with no free slack on the shaft. The strap has 10 adjustment holes in the
middle of the strap. At the top end of the strap there are 2 other holes to choose from that will be looped back to the 10 middle
adjustment holes. The hole that is closest to the end of the strap is the standard adjusting hole. The hole that is 3” down from the
end of the strap is an optional hole that will give the strap 10 coarser adjustments (works well on high-horse power sleds).
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2 Optional Shock Mounting Locations: If you have purchased a set of Timbersled slide rails, they will have 2 different
mounting locations for the front and back shock. The rearward holes are the standard Mtn. Tamer shock mounting locations. The
forward holes are an optional location that will make the suspension 30% stiffer and more bottom-out resistant. This works well for
larger riders and making extreme adjustments for high horse power sleds.
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3 Float Shock Air Pressure: Note: Your installation instructions include recommended air pressure set-ups for each sled brand
and rider weight. Your kit includes an air pump to adjust the spring rate of the shock. To do this you will need to lift up the back end
of the sled, remove the silver air valve-cap (be very careful that you do not get any moisture inside the air valve). Thread the pump onto the
valve-stem until you feel the pump pressure up, you will be able to see the pressure on the gauge. Also keep in mind that when the
pump pressures up the shock looses 4 psi. When you unthread the pump you will hear it release air but will not affect the exact
pressure you gave it. When tuning your suspension it is best to change air pressure in increments of 10 psi at a time. The Mtn.
Tamer shocks have a specific air pressure range that they must run in (depending on the hole location in the rails) so that you do not
damage the suspension or shock. Shock Pressure Ranges:                   Front shock in front hole, 40 to 80 psi
                                                                          Front shock in back hole, 75 to 100 psi
                                                                         Back shock in front hole, 120 to 175 psi
                                                                         Back shock in back hole, 130 to 175 psi
Warning: If your suspension is bottoming out you need to stop and readjust. If you are unable to make the shocks
perform properly you need to stop riding and contact us for assistance. Damage will occur if you ignore the problem.
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4 & 5 Back Arm Slide Mechanism: The slide mechanism has 2 adjustment points by adding or removing aluminum shims that
are included in the kit.
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1 you can adjust the sleds rear ride height by adding a shim onto the top side of the slide mechanism. This works well for fine
tuning the amount of ski pressure your sled has on the trail without jeopardizing the amount of ski lift when climbing.
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2 you can adjust how much suspension couples by adding a shim to the bottom side of the slide mechanism. In conjunction with
the limiter strap, this controls how much ski lift your sled will have.
Each sled brand has a max amount of shim you can add to the slide mechanism; if it is over shimmed the suspension will bind up
and damage something. Max Shim for each sled Brand: Arctic Cat M-Series, ½” top ~ ¼” bottom
                                                               Polaris IQ & Edge, ½” top ~ ¾” bottom
                                                               Ski-Doo REV,       ½” top ~ ¾” bottom
                                                               Ski-Doo XP,        ½” top ~ ½” bottom
                                                               Yamaha (all),      ½” top ~ ¾” bottom
Warning: Never exceed the max amount of shim that is recommended for your sled brand. Damage will occur if you do.
Recommended Set -Ups for Different HP Sleds:                                                                           Page 2 of 2
The given set-ups are intended to control ski lift and have been tested by Timbersled on various types of sleds. They are a good
starting point to go by, however every rider has a different liking and will need to fine tune the suspension from these set up points.
Warning: The Mtn. Tamer is a high performance mountain sled back suspension. It has the ability to make extreme amounts of
adjustments to the point of damaging results. The listed tuning set ups are universal. Know the limits of adjustability for your sled
brand. There is no warranty on damage that is caused by improper tuning results.
Normally Aspirated Sleds Slide shims: No shim on bottom & no shim on top
    (Up to 175 HP)        Front shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in rearward hole
                          Back shock: Lower to middle range of air pressures in rearward hole
                         Limiter strap: 3rd to 6th hole down, using standard end hole on strap

Turbo Sleds,6-12 psi of boost Slide shims: ½” shim on bottom & no shim on top
      (Up to 225 HP)          Front shock: Lower to Middle range of air pressures in rearward hole
                              Back shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in rearward hole
                             Limiter strap: 6th to 8th hole down, using standard end hole on strap

Turbo Sleds, 12 - 16 psi of boost Slide shims: ½” to ¾” shim on bottom & ¼” shim on top
      (Up to 250 HP)               Front shock: Lower to Middle range of air pressures in forward hole
                                   Back shock: Upper range of air pressures in rearward hole
                                  Limiter strap: 2nd to 5th hole down, using optional end hole on strap

Turbo Sleds, 16 - 20 psi of boost (162 - 174” track is mandatory to control this amount of power)
       (Up to 310 HP)               Slide shims: ¾” shim on bottom & ¼” to ½” shim on top
                                    Front shock: Lower range of air pressures in forward hole
                                    Back shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in forward hole
                                   Limiter strap: 7th to 10th hole down, using optional end hole on strap

Turbo Sleds, 20 - 25 psi of boost                (174” track is mandatory to control this amount of power)
      (Up to 375 HP)                              Slide shims: ¾” shim on bottom & ½” shim on top
                                                  Front shock: Lowest range of air pressures in forward hole
                                                  Back shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in forward hole
                                                 Limiter strap: 10th hole down, using optional end hole on strap
______________________________________________________________________________________
Suspension Maintenance:
    1.   Check shock air pressure once a month.
    2.   Grease all zerks 3 times per year.
    3.   Re-tighten all bolts after first ride and each year.
    4.   Re-tighten inner air-valve needle after 5 rides (special tool needed, Can be purchase at any hardware store)
    5.   Shock oil change and service is recommended every 2000 miles.

Suspension Warranty:
Timbersled Products inc. warranty’s all products of its own manufacture against defects in materials and workmanship for a period
of one (1) year from the date of shipment. Replacement and / or repair warranty is valid only if all other terms and conditions herein
are met.
  1. Timbersled Products inc. requires notification prior to replacement of any part under this warranty.
  2. Replacement and / or repaired parts will be supplied upon receipt of defective parts.
  3. Timbersled Products inc. shall have no obligation under this warranty if:
           Buyer fails to notify Timbersled Products inc. of any possible defect.
           Product is improperly installed.
           Product is used in an application other than its original intent.
           Buyer continues to use product after product malfunction.

The obligation of Timbersled Products inc. is limited to replacement and / or repair of defective products only for the period of time
as stated above. Timbersled Products inc. has no other obligation or liability for any other injury or damage resulting there from.

     Should you have any problems during installation, please call (208) 255-5644

								
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