Honey Straw Filling System Owner's Manual by olliegoblue28

VIEWS: 192 PAGES: 24

									             To Order, call 913-206-2188, or by mail:
                        Anthony’s Beehive
                        1804 N1100 Road
                      Lawrence, KS 66046
                 $600 Total, includes shipping
                         ($300 deposit &
  Figure 1         $300 due before shipment)

Honey Straw Filling System
Owner’s Manual w/Video                    (rev. 12/07)
Congratulations on your purchase of our unique
  “Goldrush” Honey Straw Filling System. Filling
  straws at home should prove to be a simple and
  rewarding ($) process. If you have any questions or
  problems, please call Tony @ 913-206-2188 or 785-
  842-9268. Evenings and weekends work best. You
  can also visit us @ AnthonysKansasHoney.com.

As with any new skill, your success will improve rapidly
  over time. Most people start out making about
  200 straws per hour and improve to around 500
  straws per hour. With the NEW “Goldrush 1000”,
  you should be able to work your way up to 1,000
  Honey Straws per hour!
      Don’t Forget the Video!
   There is a short video
    clip included on your
    CD-ROM. It will
    greatly help you         Click HERE to
    understand the straw-    View the Video
    making process. We
    suggest that you
    watch the video and
    read the entire
    manual before
    starting to make
What You Should Have……
   When you unpack your system, you should have:
    – System Shelf, Electric Sealer, Electric Hot Plate,
      Circuit Protected Power Strip, 2-Part Stainless Steel
      Honey Reservoir, 3 Hooks, Drill for Pilot Holes for
      the Hooks, CD-ROM with Instruction Manual,
      Recipes, and Short Video of the Straw Filling
      Process, Spare Parts (3 each of Heating Element
      and Teflon Strips and one extra Silicone Bar),
      Thermometer, 1,000 Empty Straws, Magnetic
      Phillips Screwdriver, Magnetic Standard Screwdriver,
      Circuit Protected Power Strip, and a Thermometer.
Setting Up Your System
Your Honey Straw Filling System requires very
  little assembly. Refer to Figure 1 on page one
  as a guide. Some important things to make
  sure you do NOT OVERLOOK are:
 Install the 3 hooks (provided) as follows:
    – Use the included drill bit for pilot holes as
    – One hook goes in the ceiling above your
       work area. This is for draining your           Figure 2
       manifold and tubing after each use. See
       Figure 2.
    – The other two hooks screw into the front
       of your work table directly under your
       sealing mechanism. These hooks provide a
       place for the manifold to rest when not in
       use or when loading straws. See Figure 3.
 Set the dial on the electric straw sealer to “6”.
                                                      Figure 3
     Preparing to Make Straws
 Your system will ONLY work is the HONEY is HEATED. It works very well
  at 130 degrees Fahrenheit, but we recommend that you start out 20 to 30
  degrees warmer until you develop more skill. That way, the honey in the
  manifold and tubing does not get too cold. Cool honey doesn’t flow well!
 The system uses a double boiler type set-up to heat honey without
  scorching it.
   – Start by filling the larger, bottom container just past the first line with
   – Set the hot plate setting to “LOW”.
   – Make Certain that the Valve from the Honey Pail is TURNED OFF,
       then add Honey to the large bowl. It takes about 1 ½ hours for the
       honey to reach the desired temperature.
   – Use the thermometer to make certain that the honey is at least 130
       degrees. Remember that it is best for beginners to work 20 to 30
       degrees warmer.
   – Add desired flavoring and coloring at this time. Some recipes are
       included. You can call for others or just experiment.
   – Make certain that the dial on the straw sealer is set to “6”
   – Prepare a bowl with about ¼ cup of warm water and a couple of paper
       towels. Spilled honey should be wiped up frequently in order to keep
       everything working well.
    Prime the System
   OK, the honey is now Warm!
   Attach the tubing from the manifold to
    the barbed fitting on the honey valve as
    shown in Figure 4.
   Once the tubing is attached, slide a straw
    past the first ridge and stop when it
    reaches the second ridge of each barbed      Figure 4
    fitting on the manifold as shown in
    Figure 5. Repeat for ALL EIGHT
   Open all eight valves on the manifold
   Next, open the valve on the Honey
    bucket and begin to squeeze the hand
    pump. Honey should start to flow
    through the clear tubing. Continue
    pumping until the manifold is full and
    honey begins to show up in the straws.        Figure 5
    This might take a couple of minutes the
    first time.
      Filling Straws
                                                        Figure 6
 This is the moment you’ve been waiting for. Honey has
  begun to appear in the straws. Slowly apply pressure to the
  pump and watch as the honey moves up the straws as in
  Figure 6. They will fill at slightly different rates.
 As the honey in each straw reaches a point 3/4” below the
  top of the straw, quickly shut off the valve for that straw.
  Repeat until all eight valves are shut off. Work the hand
  pump as needed during this process. You will become very
  fast at this with a little practice.
 You should now have 8 straws, filled with honey to 3/4”
  from the top, still attached to the manifold, and all eight
  valves should be SHUT OFF. Overfilled straws will still seal,
  but they tend to get a little messy.
    Sealing the Tops of the Straws
    Now that the eight straws are full, the
     tops must be sealed. Move the
     manifold with the straws into a
     horizontal position where the tops of
     the straws are positioned approximately
     ½” past the sealer element as shown in
     Figure 7.                                            Figure 7
   Next, make certain that the dial on the sealer is set to 6. You might
    need to adjust this from time to time depending on how well the
    straws are sealing.
   Press down firmly on the sealer handle. Maintain a constant
    pressure. Releasing too soon will cause the straws to seal incorrectly.
    You should hear a slight “sizzling” noise followed by a faint “click”.
    Hold the handle down firmly for at least 4 seconds after you hear
    the “sizzle and click”. ====== THIS IS THE NUMBER ONE
    second cooling period, the seals will often re-open when you lift the
     Sealing the Bottoms
   OK – this is the trickiest part of the
    process. Position the Bottoms of the
    straws in the sealer just past the end of
    the barbed fittings as shown in Figure
    8. Again, lower the sealer handle and
    hold it firmly in place.
   IMMEDIATELY pull the manifold               Figure 8
    STRAIGHT backwards, removing it
    from the straws in one quick, smooth
    motion as shown in Figure 9
    (remember: this IS the trickiest part
    of the process, you might want to
    review the video again before
    attempting this step.
   Just like you did with the tops,
    hold the handle down for at
    least FOUR SECONDS AFTER                     Figure 9
    the “sizzle and click” sound.
   You have just completed your first eight straws!
   The key is to find a consistent pace and the right
    temperature for your skill level.
   Don’t forget to hold the sealer handle down FIRMLY for
    FOUR seconds after the seal is made!
   Keep a bowl of clean warm water and a few paper towels
    – Keep the machine clean – especially the Teflon Strip!
   You will probably want to have a large container nearby
    to place the completed straws in. They’ll often be a little
    sticky, but we’ll fix that later.
    Preparing System for Next Use
   Cold honey is the enemy of this entire process.
   As soon as you are done making straws, hang the
    manifold as shown in Figure 2
     – Use the plastic elbow in the middle of the supply tube to hang
       the manifold unit from a hook in the ceiling.
     – This allows all of the honey to drain back into the reservoir
     – Make certain that all the valves are open and that neither end is
       submerged – otherwise, the honey will not drain
   Before using the system again, clean the manifold by
    pumping hot water through it – especially if you are
    changing flavors (you could do this by submerging it in
    your kitchen sink).
             Trim and Wash Straws
 You will want to wash your
  straws before selling them, and
  you will probably want to snip at
  least one end (the bottom) with
  a scissors.
 The cut ends are GREAT to put
  outside and feed back to your
  bees (if you are a beekeeper)!
 The dishwasher works OK to          Figure 10
  clean straws, but drying takes a
  long time. See Figure 10.
 Warm plain water always does a
  good job on honey clean-up.
Package as Desired
   You can use your straw sealer to package straws however
    you would like. It increases sales to offer things like 10
    packs and 50 packs. We often make 6-packs with a
    printed cardstock insert. These look great and sell even
    better. Also, some markets do not allow “open air”
    straws. For these situations, just seal 5 straws in a pack
    and sell it for $1. Make certain that when you are sealing
    bags, the sealer is set on 2 or 3. Then turn it back to 6
    for straws. A second sealer helps with this process. You
    will need to purchase a roll of poly bag tubing.
    www.Uline.com has good pricing and selection of these.
    One of the best ways to sell straws in a larger store is to
    make a “bundle”. This involves 5 straws wrapped
    together with a 2” x 3” label. Only the top 2” x 2” of the
    label needs to be printed. A UPC bar code can be
 Due to the volume of straws being made, your system will require some
  troubleshooting and maintenance
 The most important thing is to keep the sealing area clean.
     – Use a paper towel with warm water to wipe up spilled honey as it occurs.
   Here are the most common problems and how to correct them
     – Straws Not sealing
         • Make certain that you hold the handle down FIRMLY for 4+ seconds after the
            “sizzle and click”
          • Make certain that the dial is set on 6. Sometimes you have to increase this towards the end
            of the element’s life.
          • The elements seems to be good for 1,000 to 4,000 straws and then they have to be
                – Your system shipped with 3 extra elements
                – Use a Magnetic Phillips screwdriver (included) to change out the element
                     » Be careful not to drop the screws inside of the sealer!
                – Cut a new piece of Teflon tape and replace it at the same time!
                – Replace the silicon bar about every fourth time that you change elements
                     » It CAN be turned over after a couple of elements to present a clean side
          • While your sealer is apart, thoroughly clean as many surfaces as possible
   Leakers
     – You will have some leaky straws. Either reseal these, cut these in thirds and feed
       them to your bees or…..JUST EAT THEM!
   PLEASE feel free to call with questions or problems. Any trouble that you are
    having, we have probably dealt with in the past and should have a suggested
    solution at hand.
     Ordering Spare Parts and Supplies –
    Free Shipping via USPS Priority Mail
 Heating Elements, Teflon Strips, and Silicon
  Bars - $2.00 each
 Straws – one cent each in quantities of 250
    – Should be available LOCALLY for much less
       • Restaurant suppliers sell cases of 12,000 “Jumbo Clear
         Translucent”. We have used Dixie and Solo.
          – Take a sample the first time you go in
 Food-Grade Nylon Valves - $10.00 each
 Handheld Honey Pump - $15.00
 New Sealer - $60 (includes shipping)
 Extra Manifold/Tubing Set-up - $150.00
Other Straw Options and Ideas
   You can purchase long (10”) straws and do some creative things
    with them.
     – Make long straws that no one else has!
     – Seal three times to make a standard straw and a “snippette”.
         •   1.   Fill the straw to within ¾” of the end
         •   2.   Make your FIRST SEAL 3” from the end
         •   3.   Make your SECOND SEAL at the end like always
         •   4.   Make your THIRD and final seal at the bottom just like always
         •   5.   Cut the straw between the FIRST and SECOND seal
   Also, you can seal things in straws like Maple Syrup, Chocolate
    Syrup, Agave, or even Mouthwash (don’t heat these).
   Offer to fill straws with local honey for other beekeepers. We
    charge $60 gallon for this process. It should about two hours total
   This is a labor intensive process“Bribe” kids to make and snip straws
    for you. We usually pay one cent to cut and 3 to 4 cents to fill and
    seal. It’s a good wage for the kids and you’ll get lots of straws at a
    very good price!
   Nothing beats a honey straw filled with pure, local honey – but it’s still great fun to experiment
    with different flavors (and increase sales). Here are some guideines. It’s a lot of fun to
    experiment and create your own flavors, colors, and names.
   EXPERIMENT to get the flavors and colors you like best!
     –   Strawberry, Blue Coconut, Mango, Almond, Vanilla, Cherry, etc….
            •   Add one ounce pure extract and 20 drops of food coloring per QUART of honey
            •   A QUART makes about 200 straws
     –   Citrus Flavors – use OIL (it’s all natural). About 5 ml per quart.
     –   Cinnamon
            •   Add 3 ml cinnamon oil per quart of honey
     –   Mint
            •   Add 8 ml of mint extract per quart of honey
   CITRIC ACID can be added in small amounts to create a sour flavor and also to lengthen the shelf
    life of your product. Experiment starting at about ½ teaspoon per quart.
   Extracts and oils can usually be purchased at your local grocery store
   Coloring
     –   FDA food colorings work well and last great. Experiment to get the shades you like best
     –   NATURAL COLORINGS – these are a great selling point, but are a little trickier, especially as far as shelf life
         and heating are concerned.
            •   RED – use BEET JUICE. Does a nice job, but tends to dissipate with heat. Start at about 1 tablespoon per quart. Work at
                as low of a temperature as possible and don’t add until the last possible moment. Never reheat.
            •   YELLOW - use TURMERIC. Boil in water first and then strain out the extra powder. Try ¼ cup ground turmeric and ¼
                cup water. Add about ½ of the strained liquid and experiment from there.
   When making flavored and colored sticks, follow these steps
     –   Heat the Honey FIRST
     –   Add ½ of your ingredients, then stir with an empty straw
     –   Dip the straw in the honey, place your thumb over the open end, and remove to sample. This will show
         you the resulting color IN the straw.
            •   Add more flavoring from this point as needed
   Store the flavored honey left in the system for your next batch
   Feel free to call or e-mail with other questions or to discuss your ideas.
The New “GOLDRUSH 1000”
 For more advanced users
 Can be purchased as an upgrade to the original
  “Goldrush 500”.
 We recommend purchase of the “500” first, then
  upgrading if appropriate. The cost of the “1000” is
  the SAME as the cost of the “500” plus and upgrade
  kit, so there is no financial incentive to jump right into
  the “1000”.

    – Makes 1,000 straws per hour instead of 500
    – The manifold has ten valves instead of eight
    – Seals the tops and bottoms at the same time using two
      15” sealers
    – Uses a foot pump instead of a handheld so that your
      hands are free to quickly operate the ten valves
                      GOLDRUSH 1000

   What you will receive:
    –   Two 15 ½” electric impulse sealers
    –   Base and sealer connection hardware
    –   Hot Plate
    –   Foot Operated Pump
    –   10-valve manifold and tubing
    –   1,000 empty straws
    –   Tools and accessories
    –   Power strip
               GOLDRUSH 1000
    – First, review the instructions and video for the “Goldrush
      500”. The “Goldrush 1000” is more complicated and
      requires more skill to operate. However, once the “learning
      curve” is complete, you will find it to be reliable and easy to
    – It is recommended that the operator of the “Goldrush 1000”
      STRAWS! This allows adequate consistent pressure to
      consistently seal all ten straws.
    – Another tip for learning to use the Goldrush 1000 for the first
      time: Close off the two outermost valves (so you are only
      making 8 straws) and use the pump in your hand instead of
      with the foot pedal. This will allow you to begin learning the
      process without the honey cooling off.
    – Start learning with honey heated to 160 or 170 degrees.
      Later, you will be able to work with honey heated only to
      130 degrees.
           GOLDRUSH 1000
    – 1. Heat the honey as mentioned on the
      prior slide
    – 2. Operate the pump by hand in order to
      prime it. Once honey is flowing to the
      manifold, then place the pump in the foot
      bracket as shown below:
            GOLDRUSH 1000
    – 3. Use the foot pump to keep the honey flowing
      into the manifold.
    – 4. Turn off the individual valves as the honey
      reaches a point about ¾ of an inch below the top
      of the straw.
    – 5. Position the manifold and the straws in the
      sealers as shown below:
            GOLDRUSH 1000
    – 6. While STANDING
      UP, press down on
      the sealer handle as
      shown below. As
      soon as the straws
      are secure, pull
      STRAIGHT back on
      the manifold to
      remove it from the
      straws in one
      smooth, swift motion.

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