Rodent Control Putting Strawberri

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					Webster County Extension 108 South 8th Street Fort Dodge, IA 50501 Phone: (515) 576-2119 FAX: (515) 576-6447 E-mail: xwebster@iastate.edu URL: http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Pages/webster

Vol. 2, No. 2

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Pages/webster/acreage

October 03 – Nov. 03

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Many materials can be made available in alternative formats for ADA clients. To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call 202-720-5964. Cooperative Extension Service, Iowa State University of Science and Technology, and the United States Department of Agriculture cooperating.

Rodent Control
Content provided by E-Answers Http://www.e-answersonline.org/ Using the search word rats.

Fall is the time of year when rats and mice are looking for shelter for the winter. It is a good time to check out the buildings on your acreage to discourage rodents. Here are some suggestions for discouraging them.
• Plug any holes that are ¼ inch or larger. Anything

• Products that are advertised to scare or repel rodents may only work for a short time until the rodents become accustomed to them.
• Cats and dogs may actually attract more rodents

that a pencil can go through is large enough for a mouse. It only takes a crack of ½ inch for a rat to squeeze through.
• Use 26 gauges or heavier galvanized sheet metal,

than they catch. Rats and mice devour unfinished food left in feed dishes overnight. In addition, well-fed pets aren’t interested in hunting rodents. • Owls, hawks and snakes feed on large numbers of rodents. These wildlife species are good to encourage. • Traps are a good choice. Mice are curious and if you have not caught one in the first two days move the trap. Rats on the other hand are cautious; it may take them a week to get close to the trap. Try leaving the trap unset and unbaited several days for them to accept it as part of the environment, then set the trap.

hardware cloth or concrete mortar to close openings. • Clean-up garbage and vegetation (such as fallen apples) around buildings. Store garbage, pet and livestock feed in metal cans with tight-fitting lids.

Putting Strawberries to Bed
Content provided by Mary Ann deVries, Polk Co. Horticulturist

If you enjoyed a delicious crop of strawberries this summer, you’ll want to take some time now to protect your plants for winter. Temperatures around 20°F can kill strawberry fruit buds and damage the plant’s roots and crown. The damage increases as temperatures go lower. For this reason, it’s imperative that strawberry beds be mulched to provide wintertime protection. Find a clean, weed-free mulching material such as oat straw, soybean straw or chopped cornstalks. Tree leaves generally don’t work, because they tend to mat down and smother the plants rather than protect them. Around the first of November, apply the mulch to the strawberry bed in a layer about 3 to 5 inches thick (2 to 4 inches after settling). It’s not important to wait until the plants have had two or three hard freezes.

Mulching actively growing plants can actually increase winter damage. Next spring; leave the mulch in place until the plants show signs of growth. This helps prevent frost heaving. When about 25% of the plants show new yellow/white growth – usually around mid-April—you can rake back the mulch from the plants. But save it. If there is a threat of a frost later, the mulch can be raked lightly back over the plants. If the weather is dry, don’t forget to water at least once a week during the growing season. Then sit back and prepare to enjoy one of the true glories of the garden: the taste of fresh strawberries!

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Stop the Static
Content provided by the Good Neighbor News, First Edition 2003

It’s time to fill up your tank again, so you pull into a service station. You stick the gas pump nozzle into your fill pipe and lock it in the open position so you don’t have to keep your hand on it. Then you get in your car and wait. When the tank is full, you get out, remove the nozzle and suddenly, your hand is on fire! Re-entering a vehicle during fueling – particularly in cool or cod and dry weather conditions – can cause a build-up of static electricity. You carry the static with you to the pump where it may react with gasoline vapors and spark a fire. The American Petroleum Institute offers these guidelines for avoiding refueling fires caused by static ignition:

• Stay near your vehicle and don’t re-enter it during fueling. • If you must go inside your car during refueling, touch a metal part of the car before you touch the gasoline nozzle again. • If a fire does start, leave the nozzle in the fill pipe and back away from the vehicle. Notify the station attendant immediately so all dispensing devices and pumps can be shut off. • When putting gasoline into a container, use only an approved portable container and place it on the ground while filling to avoid static ignition. Never fill a container in or on a vehicle.

Slime Flux
Content provided by Barbara Ambruzs, ISU Extension Plant Pathologist

Did you ever see a tree cry? You might think so if you’ve ever seen a wet, glistening stream seeping down the ridges of its bark. Of course, this liquid really isn’t tears. Instead it is a fluid produced by certain bacteria that inhabit many tree species. This disease is known as bacterial wetwood, or slime flux, and it is common in elm, maple, poplar and birch. Even after the slime dries, the bark stains a yellow to brownish color, indicating that at one time the tree was oozing. Populations can increase extremely rapidly. Many bacteria have a slimy, protective coating. So, when millions of bacterial cells are in one pile they are usually oozy and gelatinous. The wetwood/slim flux bacteria often live deep within trees. The wetwood/slim flux bacteria can tolerate low oxygen levels within the wood. The byproducts of their anaerobic lives are methane gas and liquids, resulting in a pressure build up inside the trees. These gasses and liquids usually have an unpleasant odor. Weak spots in the bark or branch crotches typically give way to the high pressure and allow the material to release. That’s when the ooze begins to drip down the tree. While inside the tree, the slime is usually clear, but it changes color to brown after it is exposed to the air. The slime also contains chemicals that are toxic to plants. Therefore, dead grass or other plants can

usually be found at the base of weeping trees. Slime poison also can injure the newest layer of live cells inside the tree. Trees can defend themselves internally from a spreading infection, but wounds can create entryways for disease causing bacteria to start new infections in other parts of the tree. To gain entry, the bacteria require wounds, such as those from lawn mowers, animal chewing, digging in the root zone, or storm damage. One inside however, bacteria symptoms can take several years to appear. In elms, this disorder may cause wilting, leaf yellowing, and dieback that can resemble other infectious diseases such as Dutch elm disease, which is caused by a fungus. A laboratory test can confirm if the tree has Dutch elm disease. Preventing wounds and stressful situations is the best way to reduce wetwood problems. However, there is no cure for bacterial wetwood/slime flux. Once a tree shows the symptoms of bacterial wetwood/slim flux, you can probably expect to see it again in following years. Be sure to water plants when needed – especially during dry periods. Symptoms tend to be more severe when trees are stressed from drought. Check the soil moisture at about 10 – 12 inches down to be sure it is dry before watering and moist after watering. Avoid compacting the soil over the roots since compacted soil limits oxygen and water uptake.

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Histoplasmosis
Content provided by the Gale Encyclopedia of Medicine

Histoplasmosis is an infectious disease caused by inhaling the microscopic spores of the fungus Histoplasma capsulatum. The disease exists in three forms. Acute or primary Histoplasmosis causes flu-like symptoms. Most people who are infected recover without medical intervention. Chronic Histoplasmosis affects the lungs and can be fatal. Disseminated Histoplasmosis affects many organ systems in the body and is often fatal. Histoplasmosis is an airborne infection. The spores that cause this disease are found in soil that has been contaminated with bird or bat droppings. Anyone can get Histoplasmosis, but people who are come into contact with bird and bat excrement are more likely to be infected. This includes farmers, gardeners, bridge inspectors and painters, roofers, chimney cleaners, demolition and construction workers, people installing or servicing heating and air conditioning units, people restoring old or abandoned buildings, and people who explore caves. When the spores of H. capsulatum are inhaled, they lodge in the lungs where they divide and cause lesions. This is known as acute or primary Histoplasmosis. It is not contagious. Many otherwise healthy people show no symptoms of infection at all. When symptoms do occur, they appear 3-17 days after exposure (average time is 10 days). The symptoms are usually mild and resemble those of a cold or flu; fever, dry cough, enlarged lymph glands, tiredness, and a general feeling of ill health. A small number of people develop bronchopneumonia. About 95% of people who are infected either experience no symptoms or

have symptoms that clear up spontaneously. These people then have partial immunity to re-infection. A simple blood test can be taken to tell if a person has previously been infected by the fungus H. capsulatum. Chest x-rays often show lung damage caused by the fungus, but do not lead to a definitive diagnosis because the damage caused by other diseases has a similar appearance on the x-ray. Most cases of primary histo go undiagnosed, because people believe they have the flu. Acute primary histo generally requires no treatment other than rest. Non-prescription drugs such as acetaminophen (Tylenol) may be used to treat pain and relieve fever. Avoiding smoke and using a cool air humidifier may ease chest pain. Patients who develop chronic histo are treated with the drug Nizoral, Fungizone or Sporonox. These drugs can be harmful to other organs. Most people recover from primary histo in a few weeks without medical intervention. Patients with chronic histo who are treated with antifungal drugs generally recover rapidly. When left untreated, or if serious disease is present, Histoplasmosis can be fatal. Since the spores of H. capsulatum are so widespread, it is almost impossible to prevent exposure in endemic areas. Dust suppression measures when working with contaminated soil may help limit exposure. Individuals who are at risk of developing the more severe forms of the disease should avoid situations where they will be exposed to bat and bird droppings.

Great Flight, Great Seat
Content provided by the 2003 Financial Literacy Center

Finding a low airfare sometimes takes work, but it may be only the beginning. Once you’ve booked your flight, your next challenge is to get a good seat. Here’s some help. • If you’re flexible, choose a midday or midweek flight, which may be less crowded than night or weekend flights. • Select your seat when you buy your ticket. If seating assignments aren’t available, you may be on an over-booked flight.

• If you’ve made a reservation through an agent, ask questions about the seat, including whether it reclines and how close it is to the lavatories. • Arrive at the airport well line advance of your departure time. Often, some of the best seats are held until just before departure. If your flight isn’t full, you may be able to switch to a better seat.

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Know the Language of Buying Firewood
Content provided by Paul Wray, ISU Extension Forestry

When you set out to buy firewood, go prepared with a new vocabulary. Here are some definitions that will be helpful to people who are buying firewood. A cord of firewood is a stack piled 4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet. That’s 128 cubic feet of wood and air spaces. A unit called a face cord is used in some localities. This is a stack of wood 12, 16, or 24 inches long piled 4 feet high and 8 feet wide. A face cord is between ¼ and ½ a standard cord, depending on the length. Firewood also is sold by the pickup load. The actual volume included in a pickup load depends on the dimensions of the bed and how the wood is stacked. A typical pickup load equals 1/3 to 2/3 of a standard cord. Density refers to the weight of the wood per unit

volume. Iowa hardwoods with high density include locust, elm, hickory, oak, hard maple and ash. Woods with lower density include silver maple, box elder, cottonwood and basswood. The denser the wood, the higher the heat value. However, all woods grown in Iowa, when properly dried, are burnable in good wood burning units. Air-dried wood is freshly cut wood that has been allowed to dry outside. Air-dried firewood will provide ¼ to 1/3 more heat per unit volume than green wood. To adequately air-dry, wood should be cut to length, split and stacked for a year or more. A cubic foot of freshly cut white oak that weighs about 62 pounds will weigh 48 pounds when air-dried. Don’t buy freshly cut (green) wood. Green wood is slow to ignite, provides less energy and may promote creosote formation. Creosote collects in your chimney and may cause a fire hazard.

Is Your Soil Healthy?
Content provided by John Creswell, ISU Extension Specialist & Mike Sucik, Natural Resources Conservation Service

What was the general health of your lawn and garden this summer? Did your tomatoes and sweet corn look yellow and unhealthy? If the answer is “yes”, your lawn and garden may be low in organic matter (less than 1%). You may want to soil test for organic matter this fall. Organic matter is the key to a healthy and productive lawn and garden. Soil organic matter is the portion of the soil composed of anything that once lived. It includes plant and animal remains in various stages of decomposition; cells and tissues of soil organisms, and substances from plant roots and soil microorganisms. All living things are made up of carbon, and carbon is the primary element of organic matter. It’s what makes organic matter organic. In most soils, organic matter accounts for less than 5% of the total soil volume. We commonly refer to it as topsoil.

Soil organic matter acts as a storehouse for nutrients, increases biological and chemical activity in the soil, and reduces the effects of compaction. It helps build better soil structure and tilth, and increases water infiltration and retention. It protects the soil from pounding raindrops, which not only cause erosion, but seal over soil pores. Rapid changes in soil pH and other chemical processes are slowed by organic matter’s buffering capacity. Soil organic matter is the primary energy source and home for billions of beneficial organisms, such as nitrogen fixing bacteria, fungi, and earthworms. Increasing the soil organic matter to proper levels will increase productivity in your vegetable garden, flower beds, and lawns. Webster Co. Extension office has publications on composting, which will improve organic matter in your lawn and garden. Ask for RG 206 – Questions About Composting or PM 683 – Composting Yard Waste.

2004 Garden Calendar
The 2004 Garden Calendar is available for purchase at the Webster County Extension Office. Copies of the calendar are available for $8.00. Tambien disponible en Espanola. (Also available in Spanish.) Stop in today to get your copy!
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Caring for a Family Member? Don’t Go It Alone - 6 Numbers You Should Know
Content provided by Donna Donald, ISU Ext. Family Life FS; Colleen Jolly, ISU Ext. State Spec.; & Laura Sternweis, ISU Ext. Comm. Spec.

1. National Eldercare Locator, (800) 677-1116. Nationwide assistance for locating available services in the zip code area of the person needing care. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m. EST. 2. Iowa Family Caregiver Support Program, (866) 468-7887. Information and access to care giving resources for Iowans. 3. Area Agency on Aging. Resources for older Iowans, such as adult day services, companion and respite care, congregate or home-delivered meals, consultations, health-care or homemaker aides, legal assistance, or transportation. To locate the area agency near you, call either the

Iowa Family Caregiver Support Program, (866) 468-7887 or the Iowa Department of Elder Affairs, (515) 242-333, or visit the web-site: www.state.ia.us/elderaffairs/aaa/index.html 4. Long-Term Care Ombudsman, (515) 242-3327. Inquiries of all types related to long-term care. 5. Senior Health Insurance Information Program (SHIIP), (800) 351-4664. Help with questions about Medicare, Medicare+ Choice, long-term care, and other health insurance issues. 6. Iowa Concern, (800) 447-1985. Financial questions, legal issues, family transitions. ISU Extension’s hotline available all hours, all days. Web-site: www.extension.iastate.edu/iowaconcern/

Identify Signs of Meth Production and Use in Rural Areas
Content provided by Terry Finnerty, ISU Extension Commercial Horticulture Field Specialist

I live on an acreage outside one of central Iowa’s larger urban communities (not Des Moines). It is one of the many communities in Iowa and the Midwest plagued by methamphetamine production in rural areas. I have seen in ditches transparent grocery bags stuffed with drug paraphernalia, sections of garden hose and aquarium tubing, and propane canisters with blue-stained valves. These are the tools of methamphetamine production, which often are discarded in ditches and waterways. Not only does methamphetamine cause addiction and suffering among its users, it also creates an environment that is unsafe and unhealthy for others. What can you do? First, be aware. Methamphetamine, also known as meth, crank, ice, and chalk, is an extremely powerful and highly addictive stimulant that alters the chemistry of the brain and causes severed damage to internal organs. Products used in methamphetamine production (things to look for) include anhydrous ammonia (stored in portable propane canisters), ephedrine or psuedoephedrine (found in over-the-counter cold medicines), drain cleaner, stove fuel, ether-based

starting fluids, red-stained coffee filters, aquarium and garden hoses, and flashlight batteries (peeled open to extract the lithium cores). Other evidence of meth lab activity in your area may include a strong odor that smells like cat urine, ether, ammonia or acetone around buildings or vehicles, attempts to reinforce doors and blacken out windows, and unusual amounts of activity into and out of residences. Next, be wary. Meth users can be extremely agitated, paranoid, and violent. Never confront a suspected user or producer, and never touch discarded materials. Notify a local law enforcement agency immediately of your suspicions. Finally, be involved. Methamphetamine activity is not going away, and law enforcement agencies rely upon local citizens to help them with their efforts to eliminate this problem. If you suspect methamphetamine production in your neighborhood, contact your nearest law enforcement agency. For more information, visit the following Web sites: www.streetdrugs.org www.whitehousedrugpolicy.gov www.lifeormeth.org

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The Top Ten Frequently Asked Questions at the Butterball Turkey Hotline
Content provided by 2003 ConAgra Foods, Inc.

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What’s the best way to thaw a turkey? Refrigerating thawing is recommended. Thaw turkey in unopened wrapper, breast-side up, on a tray in the refrigerator. For every 4 pounds of turkey, allow at least one day of thawing. However, if short on time, submerge the turkey in cold water. Place turkey in unopened wrapper, breast down and cover completely with cold tap water. Change water every 30 minutes to keep surface of turkey cold. Estimate minimum thawing time to be 30 minutes per pound for a whole turkey. Thawing the turkey at room temperature is not recommended as it could promote bacterial growth. How do you recommend safely handling turkey? Thaw frozen turkey in the refrigerator or cold water. Keep thawed or fresh turkey in the refrigerator. Prevent uncooked juices from dripping onto other foods in the refrigerator by placing packaged turkey on a tray. Thawed turkey may be kept in the refrigerator up to 4 days before cooking. Roast fresh turkey as soon as possible, but no later than the “use by” date on the package. Place raw poultry on nonporous surfaces; these are easy to clean. It is recommended to use two cutting boards, one strictly to cut raw meats and the other for cooked and ready-toeat foods. Cutting boards should be washed thoroughly in hot soapy water after each use and allowed to air dry or dried with fresh paper towels. Use paper towels, not cloth, to wipe off turkey and clean up juices. Combine stuffing ingredients and stuff turkey just before roasting, not the night before. Wash hands, work surfaces and utensils touched by raw poultry and its juices with hot, soapy water. Use a food thermometer to determine turkey’s doneness. Use cooking methods that allow the turkey to reach an internal temperature of 140°F in less than 4 hours and a final temperature of 180°F in the thigh. If stuffed, the stuffing should reach 160°F. Avoid using low roasting temperatures or partial cooking methods. If you don’t have a meat thermometer to measure the internal temperature of the stuffing in the turkey, the stuffing should be cooked separately from the turkey. Store turkey, stuffing, gravy, broth and other leftover cooked foods in separate containers in the refrigerator within 2 hours after cooking. What’s the best way to roast a turkey? The Butterball Open Pan Roasting Method will consistently create a juicy, tender, golden brown, picture-perfect turkey. Place thawed or fresh turkey, breast up on a flat rack in a shallow pan, 2 to 2-1/2 inches deep. Brush or rub skin with oil to prevent the skin from drying and to enhance the golden color. Insert ovensafe meat thermometer deep in the lower part of thigh muscle, but no touching the bone. When thigh is up to temperature and if turkey is stuffed, move thermometer to center of stuffing for stuffing temperature. Place in a preheated 325°F oven. When the turkey is about 2/3 done, loosely cover the breast and top of drumsticks with a piece of lightweight foil to prevent overcooking the breast.

Net Weight (in pounds) 10 to 18 18 to 22 22 to 24 24 to 30

Unstuffed (in hours) 3 to 3-1/2 3-1/2 to 4 4 to 4-1/2 4-1/2 to 5

Stuffed (in hours) 3-3/4 to 4-1/2 4-1/2 to 5 5 to 5-1/2 5-1/2 to 6-1/4

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Before removing stuffing and carving, let turkey stand 15 minutes to allow juices to set and stuffing temperature to rise to 165°F. Where does the meat thermometer go? When using an oven-safe meat thermometer, insert the thermometer in the thigh prior to placing the turkey in the oven and leave in while the turkey is roasting. When using an instant-red meat thermometer, do not leave the thermometer in the turkey during roasting. Insert in thigh and/or stuffing to take the temperature. How can leftover turkey be stored properly? Within 2 hours after roasting, remove stuffing from turkey and carve mat off bones. Then, chill in refrigerator before wrapping for storage. Refrigerator storage: wrap turkey and stuffing separately and use within 3 days. Frozen storage: wrap turkey and stuffing separately in heavy foil, freezer wrap or place in freezer container or bags. For optimum flavor, use stuffing within 1 month and turkey within 2 months. How do you know when the turkey is done? Turkey is done when the meat thermometer reaches the following temperatures: 180°F deep in the thigh; also, juices should be clear, not reddish pink when thigh muscle is pierced deeply. 160°F in the center of the stuffing, if turkey is stuffed. Should I buy a fresh or frozen turkey? Selecting a fresh or frozen turkey is your choice. Fresh turkeys need no thawing and are ready to cook. Frozen turkeys can be purchased weeks in advance, but require several days of thawing time before roasting. Fresh, non-basted Butterball Turkeys are all natural. The breast meat of frozen Butterball Turkeys has been deep basted for juiciness and additional flavor. What do you need to do to a turkey just before roasting it? Remove the original plastic wrapper. Remove the neck and giblets from the body and neck cavities. Drain juices and dry turkey with paper towels. Stuff the turkey (optional) just before roasting. Return the legs to tucked position. Place turkey, breast up, on flat rack in shallow roasting pan. Brush with oil to prevent drying of the skin. Insert oven-safe meat thermometer into the deepest part of the thigh. Follow roasting directions that come with every Butterball Turkey. Always use a meat thermometer. When the turkey is cooked on an outdoor grill, water smoker or by fast cook methods where the turkey typically gets done faster than the stuffing, it is recommended that the turkey not be stuffed.

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9.

What’s the proper way to stuff a turkey? Prepare stuffing just before placing in turkey. Use only cooked ingredients in stuffing—sauté vegetables, use only cooked meats and seafood (oysters), and use pasteurized egg products instead of raw eggs. Place prepared stuffing in turkey just before roasting. Do not stuff the turkey the night before roasting. Stuff both neck and body cavities of completely thawed turkey, allowing ½ to ¾ cup of stuffing per pound of turkey. Do not pack stuffing tightly in turkey. Return legs to original tucked position. Use a cook method that allows the stuffing to cook along with the turkey. Do not stuff turkeys when cooking on an outdoor grill or water smoker or when using fast cook methods where the turkey gets done before the stuffing. If you do not have a meat thermometer to measure the internal temperature of the stuffing in the turkey, the stuffing should be cooked separately from the turkey.

10. How much turkey should I buy? Butterball recommends the following for generous servings and leftovers:
Fresh or frozen whole turkey Frozen stuffed turkey Breast of turkey (bone-in) Boneless turkey roast 1 to 1½ lbs per person 1½ to 2 lbs per person ¾ lb per person ½ lb per person

Boneless breast of turkey roast ½ lb per person

For more information call the Butterball Turkey Talkline at 1-800—323-4848.

Broccoli & Carrots with Oranges 1 sheet (18x24-inches) Reynolds Wrap® Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil ¼ cup orange marmalade spreadable fruit ½ teaspoon salt 6 cups broccoli florets 1-1/2 cups peeled baby carrots, halved lengthwise 1 can (11 oz.) mandarin oranges, drained ¼ cup cashews Preheat oven to 450°F. Combine orange marmalade and salt. Add broccoli and carrots; toss to coat. Center vegetable mixture on sheet of Reynolds wrap. Bring up foil sides. Double fold top and ends to seal making one large packet, leaving room for heat circulation inside. Bake 15 to 20 minutes on a cookie sheet. Open packet, add oranges and stir. Sprinkle with cashews before serving.

Baked Stuffed Pumpkin 2 pound pumpkin, washed 2 apples, cored, quartered ½ cup pineapple chunks ½ cup broken walnuts 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves Cut the top off the pumpkin and remove the seeds. Place cut side down in a baking pan and bake at 350°F for about 40 minutes or until soft. With a metal spoon, scrape out the cooked pumpkin, leaving a 1/8 to ¼ inch thick shell. Process the apples in a food processor until chunky. Add the remaining ingredients and process until just mixed. Spoon into the pumpkin shell. Cover with the top. Bake in 400°F oven for 45 minutes or until the filling is hot.

Apple Smiles (makes 8 smiles) Cut an apple into 16 slices. For each smile, spread one side of two apple slices with peanut butter. Place 4 mini-marshmallows on one slice (these are to look like teeth) and top with the other slice. Note: the spread side of the apple should be touch the “teeth”.

Orange Jack-O-Lanterns 1. Remove the peel from a fresh orange. 2. Make a stem for the pumpkin with a 2-inch section of pretzel rod. 3. Use brown colored candy corn to make a face on the Jack-O-Lantern. Inserting the pointed end into the orange leaving only the dark end to show.

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Open Burning Bans
Content provided by State of Iowa Department of Public Safety

Iowa Code Section 100.40 authorizes the State Fire Marshal to prohibit open burning when requested to do so by a local fire chief, a city council, or a county board of supervisors. Once a petition has been received by the State Fire Marshal requesting that a ban be imposed in all or part of a county, and if the Fire Marshal is convinced that a ban is warranted, a proclamation is issued declaring a ban on open burning to be in effect for the county or portion thereof. A similar process is used to remove a ban which is in effect. A list of Iowa counties with open burning bans currently in effect or recently rescinded is available to access on the Web site www.state.ia.us/government/dps/fm/burnban1199.htm

Celebrating 100 Years of Helping Iowans Become Their Best
Extension began in Iowa in 1903, 11 years before the national cooperative extension network was established. A group of Sioux County farmers cooperated with Iowa State to establish the “extension idea”- taking the land-grant college to the people. Today, Iowa State University is more broadly committed to improving the quality of life in Iowa. With a presence in every county, innovative use of modern communication technology, and extensive partnerships, Extension engages Iowans with their land-grant university. The people of Iowa are served through six program areas – Agriculture and Natural Resources; Business and Industry; Communities; Families; 4-H Youth Development; and Continuing Education. The Webster County Extension Office will be celebrating Extension’s 100th year birthday on Wednesday, November 19th. Be sure to mark you calendars and stop in.

ISU/Webster County Extension Service 108 South 8th Street Fort Dodge, IA 505051-4680

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