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					2009
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createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD 2009
                                             |2010
Frontcover: KIM BERIT HEPPELMANN, Collection entitled:                              ,
                                                             Écouture - The Dynamic of a Dress
Photographer: Iris Friedrich, Hair/Make-Up: Nina Heppelmann, Model: Sandy Lowe/Modelwerk

TAMAKI FUJIE, Collection Entitled: Fun in Heaven : The World, the Flesh and the Devil.
Photographer: Tanja Schimpl, Hair and Make Up: Tina PachtaModel: Jodie Giles
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...4                                               createurope       2009   ...5   createurope       2009




                                                                            Following the success of last year’s inaugural competition, 2009 saw createurope: THE FASHION
                                                                            DESIGN AWARD once again invite young, fresh fashion talent to get involved in this year’s event.
                                                                            The project has been initiated by the Goethe-Institut and made possible by cooperation with EUNIC,
                                                                            the Association of European Cultural Institutes in Berlin.

                                                                            After the official launch of this year´s competition on the 19th of February, young designers and
                                                                            fashion students from all over Europe applied with their portfolios and collection concepts. For the
                                                                            first time, young people from the Middle East and North Africa were also invited to participate.
                                                                            The entrants’ diverse geographical backgrounds aimed to encourage a creative exchange not only
                                                                            within Europe, but also beyond its borders. createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD endeav-
                                                                            ors to develop enduring and creative relationships between young designers and their international
                                                                            counterparts.

                                                                            Kick-off events took place in the participating countries in Europe, the Middle East and North Africa
                                                                            to publicize the competition on both continents. Many organisations worked in co-operation with the
                                                                            project – not just the respective Goethe-Institutes, embassies and EUNIC cultural institutes, but also
                                                                            numerous fashion colleges and fairs.

                                                                            At the end of June, a European jury made up of art and fashion professionals selected 30 finalists.
CAMILLA LASTRINA, Collection Entitled: Tales of a Savage




                                                                            The chosen designers have been invited to present their collections in a final show that takes place
                                                                            on the 23rd of October 2009 in Berlin´s Uferhallen.

                                                                            createurope was accompanied this year by an array of exciting events. These included exhibitions from
                                                                            some of last year’s finalists at createurope´s Berlin showroom ‘Creative Lab’, a trip to Casablanca with
                                                                            some of the finalists, and a visitors’ programme for participating fashion school directors.

                                                                            The highly successful symposium, “FASHION@SOCIETY” was held in Berlin, at the Akademie der Künste,
                                                                            in co-operation with the Federal Agency for Civic Education (bpb). It was accompanied by workshops
                                                                            focusing on the topics of fashion, youth culture, and social identity.
...6   createurope |2009                                                                         ...7   createurope |2009




Overview/Dates:            Entry deadline: 15th June 2009                                        Idea: createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD is a Europe-wide competition for young
                           First jury meeting: 26th June 2009                                    fashion designers and fashion design students which attracted entries from 1100 designers in 59
                                                                                                 different countries in 2009.
                           Press conference and announcing of the 30 finalists: 4th July 2009
                                                                                                 A key element of the project is the website www.createurope.com, where every one of Europe’s
                           Closing ceremony, presentation of the 30 finalists and awards:        public and private fashion schools are able to present themselves. By facilitating an intensive cultural
                           23rd October 2009                                                     exchange between young talents and fashion schools in Europe, the platform has created an enduring
                                                                                                 network for the young creative fashion scene across the continent. The site also contains details of
Participants:              Fashion design students and young fashion designers aged between      the competition’s eligibility requirements.
                           18 and 32 from all over Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East
                                                                                                 On the 26th of June 2009, an international jury consisting of fashion journalists, designers and artists
The October Jury:          AN VANDEVORST and FILIP ARICKX, Fashion Designers                     selected the 30 finalists from across Europe, North Africa and the Middle East.
                           with their own label “AF Vandevorst”, Antwerp, Belgium
                           CHRIS DERCON, Director of Haus der Kunst, Munich, Germany             The final fashion gala is set to take place on the 23rd of October in Berlin’s Uferhallen and will
                           ISABELLE GLEIZE, Director of Le Village des Créateurs, Lyon, France   feature presentations of the prize-winning collections. The four final winners of the competition will
                           FRANCINE PAIRON, Institut Français de la Mode, Head of the            then be decided by a second prominent jury.
                           Design Programs, Paris, France
                           DIRK SCHÖNBERGER, Creative Director at Joop!                          “Fashion is often reduced to clothes only”, says Prof. Dr. Michael Jeismann, Project Director of
                           PHILIP STEPHENS, Fashion Designer with his own label                  createurope.“Our society reflects itself through fashion and at the same time fashion has an impact
                           “Unconditional”, founder of the PR Agency Concrete, London, England   on our society. createurope is looking for new ways of reinventing fashion and hopes to create a
                           SLAVA ZAITSEV, Fashion Designer, Moscow, Russia                       new form of show presentation. The goal is to find a crossroad between fashion, social attitudes,
                                                                                                 cultural aspects and art.”
Patron:                    DIRK SCHÖNBERGER, Creative Director at Joop!
                                                                                                 The competition is an initiative of the Goethe-Institut, in cooperation with EUNIC Berlin. The main
Trophy Designer:           TONY CRAGG, Artist and Director of Kunstakademie Düsseldorf           sponsor of createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD is Quelle GmbH.

                                                                                                 The createurope team would like to thank everybody who made this project possible!
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createurope Project Timeline                                                                                                                                                30.05.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009:                     Tallinn, Estonia
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Fashion Show
19.02.2009                      Press Conference                               Berlin, Germany
                                                                                                                                                                            02.06.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Jerusalem, Israel
10.03.2009                                         Kick Off createurope 2009 Lyon, France
                                                                                                                                                                            12.06.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Nicosia, Cyprus
19.03.-21.03.2009                                  Kick Off createurope 2009: Vilnius, Lithuania
                                                   Fashion Festival „Mados Infekcija“                                                                                       03.07.-04.07.2009               Creative Lab#2
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Performance and Exhibition




                                                                                                         Clownscape. 9.5.2009, Casablanca. Photography: Christiane Wöhler
22.04.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Oslo, Norway                                                                                                                 Cem Cako, Germany                              Berlin, Germany

22.04.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      St. Petersburg, Russia
                                                                                                                                                                            04.07.2009                      Press Conference createurope 2009              Berlin, Germany
22.04.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Ljubljana, Slovenia
                                                                                                                                                                            28.08.2009                      FASHION@SOCIETY
29.04.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Dublin, Ireland                                                                                                              fashion, youth culture and social identities
                                                                                                                                                                                                            Workshops for pupils                           Berlin, Germany
09.05.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009:
                                FestiMode Casablanca                           Casablanca, Morocco                                                                          01.09.2009-
                                                                                                                                                                            30.09.2009                      Exhibiton of the finalists´ portfolios at
18.05.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Ramallah,                                                                                                                    Galeries Lafayette                             Berlin, Germany
                                                                               Palestinian Territories
22.05.2009                      Creative Lab#1                                                                                                                              08.09.2009                      FASHION@SOCIETY Symposium                      Berlin, Germany




                                                                                                               TARANÉ HOOCK, Collection Entitled:
                                Opening of the createurope Showroom            Berlin, Germany                                                                                                              fashion, youth culture and social identities
                                Ulrik Martin Larsen & Monomaniac, Denmark
                                                                                                                                                                            23.10.2009                      Finissage/Live-Stream and Fashion Presentation Lyon, France
28.05.2009                      Kick Off createurope 2009                      Sofia, Bulgaria
                                                                                                                                                                            23.10.2009                      Final Gala Show                                Berlin, Germany
. . . 10   createurope |2009                                                                             . . . 11   createurope |2009




The Jury - Members of the first European Jury       for the Information Management Leadership                 in intellectual history, and continues to take an      Exhibitions’ GmbH. Since 2006 she has been
                                                    Program of GE Energy in the UK, Mexico,                   interdisciplinary approach to the study of fashion     co-partner of the agency ‘Press Factory’ in Berlin.
DIRK BONN                                           China and US as a project leader in the two-              and culture.
                                                                                                                                                                        .                .
  Dirk Bonn works as a free-lance artist employ-    year program. In addition she played a role in                                                                 AGNE KUZMICKAITE
  ing the media of sound, video and sculpture. In   the newly acquired Hydro plant in Hangzhou,          JOHANNES FINKE                                                   .            .
                                                                                                                                                                    Agne Kuzmickaite attended some of Lithu-
              fashion he is a creative designer     and as Proposal Manager worked together                Johannes Finke is the editor-in-chief of BLANK           ania’s most well known art schools and later
              who develops installation pieces                       with sales team and project           Magazine, which published its first issue in Jan-        studied fashion design at
              based on the principle that these                      managers on Wind and Hydro            uary, 2009. Previous to this he contributed to           the Vilnius Academy of
              three media forms are of equal                         turbine projects. She returned        numerous magazines: Amica,                               Fine Arts and the Utrecht
              importance. During the last year                       to Shanghai in 2005 to work for       Squint Homme, Max, Spex,                                 School of the Arts in Hol-
              he has designed and helped pro-                        GE Infrastructure. In 2007 Shiyin     and Vanity Fair amongst oth-                             land. Agne has participated
              duce installations for Wolfgang                        left GE and moved to Hamburg,         ers, and also worked as chief                            in the B Fashion Weeks for
  Joop, Berhard Willhelm, Boss Black, Lacoste,                       Germany. In 2008, she founded         editor on the launch of ‘Face                            the last five years and has
  Adidas, Nike, Michael Michalsky, H&M, and         her own fashion business: Shiyin e.K/Global Fash-      Magazine’. He edits many                                 won various prizes, such as the “Aenne Burda
  Schwarzkopf.                                      ion Project in Hamburg and Berlin, where she has       different publications such as                           Preis´96 for elegance”, and a special prize
                                                    remained since.                                        “Chance 2000: The Documentation” alongside               for the “artistic image” in the “One Model
SHIYIN CAI                                                                                                 Christoph Schlingensief, conceives fashion lines                                      .
                                                                                                                                                                    Competition of 2003”. Agne has shown her
  Shiyin Cai was born in Hangzhou, China, in MELISSA DRIER                                                 for magazines such as Kee Magazine (Hong                 creativity in costume design for many theatre
  1976, where she spent her school years before    Melissa Drier is the German                             Kong) and Intro, writes poetry and drama and is                                          .
                                                                                                                                                                    houses throughout Europe. Agne is the winner
  transferring to Fudan University in Shanghai to  correspondent for Women’s                               also a successful musician.                              of createurope´s “Best Upcoming Designer
  major in International Business Administration   Wear Daily. A native New                                                                                         Award” 2008.
  in 1994. Shiyin was one of the first Chinese     Yorker, she moved to Berlin                                              NINA KRON
  student representatives to attend the St. Gallen in 1985 and has influenced                                               Nina Kron is a fashion design- CLARA LESKOVAR
  Symposium in Switzerland. She completed an       the German women’s wear                                                  er and has worked for BOSS,      After graduating from the Berlin-Weißensee
  internship at Roland Berger Consulting Shang-    industry and growing Berlin fashion scene                                Hugo, W&LT and CINQUE,           College of Art in 2003, the label c.neeon was
  hai office as an Associate Consultant working    for over two decades. Prior to that, she was                             for whom she also worked for     born and, in 2004, Clara Leskovar won the
  on projects in the pharmaceuticals and con-      the fashion editor of Daily News Record, the                             in the PR and Marketing de-      “Fashion Channel”, a competition run by the
  sumer industry, after which she moved to New     men’s fashion and trade paper belonging to                               partment. Since 2004 Nina        Berlin department store Galeries Lafayette.
  York to achieve an MBA at the State University   the Fairchild Publications group. She graduat-             has been working freelance and has led the     In the years following she partook in many
  of New York at Albany. She has also worked       ed from Kirkland College, where she majored                development of the press office for ‘Premium   diverse fashion shows in Germany, France,
. . . 12   createurope |2009                                                                             . . . 13   createurope |2009




 Austria and Japan, including the 20th “Hyères       teaches at a number of design colleges. His              lin editorial office of “Die Welt”, “Berliner Mor-                   to Fosters beer. She is currently
 Festival International de Mode & de Photog-         work has been awarded with over 70 national              genpost” and “Die Welt am Sonntag”.                                  the face of the global Nivea
                  raphie”, where she was the         and international design prizes, such as the                                                                                  Q10 plus moisturising cream
                  winner of the top prize in April   2008 ‘Visual Leader of the Year’ Award.             ULRIKE MÖSLINGER                                                          TV campaign.
                  2005. She completed her Mas-                                                             Ulrike Möslinger studied international busi-                            Her career led her to create
                  ters in Weißensee in 2006 and PROF. ILSEMARGRET LUTTMANN                                 ness at the “Vienna University of Business and                          Model Development Service,
                  during 2007 made many pre-         Prof. Ilsemargret Luttman completed her doc-                          Economics       Administration”,                        an in-house extension of top
                  sentations in London, Shang-       torate in African History. Her works have been                        and graduated in 1990. From             London model agency Take Two. As Director
                  hai, Paris and Barcelona, as       shown in Germany, France, Cameroon and                                1991 to 1999, she was the Eu-           of MDS Theodora worked with models who
 a finalist of the “Mango Fashion Awards”. In        Mali. She has spent a number of years on re-                          ropean delegate for the Linz            have became successful in the Take Two men
 October 2008 she worked on a project with           search visits in the latter two countries and has                     department office for the Aus-          and women division. Her rocketing reputation
 H&M.                                                                  also had articles and research                      trian federal state government.         gained her invites as a fashion expert on TV
                                                                       published in West Africa on                         After working as a PR advisor,          shows in Britain such as Model Behaviour, UK
MARIO LOMBARDO                                                         the topics of fashion, textiles     marketing manager and trend scout, she is               Style and the GMTV Breakfast Show.
 Mario Lombardo has managed a number of                                and the body. She curated ex-       now the marketing manager and member of                 Recently Theodora has been heading projects
 diverse magazines, music and fashion labels                           hibitions on Mali’s culture and     the executive board of “Galeries Lafayette”             inspired by her African roots, including the pro-
 since 1998. Between 2001 and the end of                               West African women’s fashion        Berlin since 2000. Ulrike Möslinger is a mem-           duction of an Afro centric show, fusing live mu-
 2006 he worked as the Director of Art for                             in a number of places, includ-      ber of the board of “Create Berlin”.                    sic, dance and fashion for Oxford University.
 the pop-culture magazine SPEX and in 2004           ing the Museum of Ethnology in Hamburg and                                                                    She has also worked as Creative/Fashion Di-
 founded the ‘BUREAU Ma-                             the Goethe Institutes in Abidjan on the Ivory       THEODORA OMAMBALA                                         rector of ASPIRE, a new London-based glossy
 rio Lombardo’ in Cologne.                           Coast and Lomé in Togo.                               Having graduated with a BA (Hons) in French             lifestyle magazine, which has established a
 His work has cultural con-                                                                                and English, Theodora excelled for more than                            credible global ASPIRE Fash-
 tent, such as music, fashion,                     ALEXANDRA MASCHEWSKI                                    a decade as a top international model, grac-                            ion brand. Her passion for
 photography, design, archi-                         Alexandra Maschewski stu-                             ing the catwalks of renowned designers such                             beauty, music and art is the
 tecture, contemporary art                           died German language and                              as Oscar de la Renta, Alexandra Mc Queen                                motivational force that cham-
 and TV design. Currently he                         literature, law, and Japanese                         and Dolce Gabbana. She gained internation-                              pions in her own words “the
 is working as Director of Art for the magazine      Studies in Hamburg and                                al status, appearing in editorials for fashion                          African creative cause”.
 ‘Liebling’ (Favourite) and moved his offices to     Bordeaux and attended the                             bibles such as English Vogue, Marie Claire
 Berlin in 2008. He is a panel-member for dif-       Axel Springer School for                              and French Elle, in addition to various world PROF. ROLF RAUTENBERG
 ferent photography and design awards and            journalists. She works as an editor for the Ber-      wide TV adverts, from Nike, American Express    Prof. Rolf Rautenberg is Fashion Designer and
. . . 14   createurope |2009                                                                              . . . 15                                                       createurope |2009




                                                                                                          CHRISTINE KRÜGER, Collection Entitled: The Loss of Innocence
     Professor for Fashion Design at Kunsthochschule                   ion industry and African com-                                                                                           Members of the second European Jury
     Berlin Weißensee.                                                 munities, forming connections
                                                                       between them.                                                                                                         AN VANDEVORST AND FILIP ARICKX
                  CATHRIN SCHAER                                                                                                                                                              Fashion Designers with their own Label “AF
                  Cathrin Schaer is a journalist                        MAYOURI SENGCHANH                                                                                                     Vandevorst”
                  and author who has written arti-                      Mayouri Sengchanh studied In-
                  cles for the New York Times, the                      ternational Economics (MBA)                                                                                            After graduating at the Royal Academy of fine
                  International Herald Tribune,        at “Institut Supérieur de Gestion” in Paris and                                                                                         Arts in Antwerp in 1991, An started working as
                  Wallpaper magazine (UK),             during her studies also completed internships                                                                                                            first assistant at Dries Van No-
                  Vogue (Australia) and Harper’s       in the USA and Japan with firms including the                                                                                                            ten, while Filip worked as a free-
     Bazaar (Australia) among others. She has          textile producers “Passot” and the top-quality                                                                                                           lance designer. In 1998, they
     been writing about fashion for the last ten       fashion label “Blanc Bleu”. The thirty-three                                                                                                             presented their first collection
     years and has also co-authored a book about       year old from France has been managing the                                                                                                               as A.F. VANDEVORST in Paris,
     New Zealand fashion designers.                    company Exalis alongside her business part-                                                                                                              winning the „Venus de la mode“
                                                       ner Dominique Cherpin for eight                                                                                                                          award for „Futur Grand Créa-
WARIDI SCHROBSDORFF                                    years, based first in Cologne and                                                                                                       teur”. A.F. VANDEVORST have since launched
 The native Kenyan was born in Nairobi and             more recently in Berlin. The com-                                                                                                       Fetish, a shoe collection, Nightfall, a women’s
 has been involved in fashion for over 20 years.       pany works as the official central                                                                                                      lingerie collection, and created costumes for
 For many years she had a successful career            office of a variety of international                                                                                                    various stage productions for the Dutch Opera
 on the catwalk and modelled for advertising           fashion fairs, such as “Première                                                                                                        House and the New York Theater Workshop. In
 and fashion campaigns. She moved to Berlin            Vision” (Paris) and “Living Room”                                                                                                       2008, A.F. VANDEVORST celebrated its 10th
 in 1993 and has been living there since. In           (Tokyo). Exalis also represents Carlin Interna-                                                                                         anniversary.
 2006 she founded the company i-magine e.V.            tional in Germany and Switzerland, which is
 (www.i-magine.org). She has since been ac-            the oldest design agency in the world and is                                                                                          CHRIS DERCON
 tively campaigning for the awareness and pre-         currently one of the top five of these agencies.                                                                                       Director of Haus der Kunst, Munich
 vention of HIV in children and young adults.
 She is involved in fashion projects with links                                                                                                                                                Chris Dercon has been the director Munich’s
 to her heritage and uses her status and op-                                                                                                                                                   Haus der Kunst since 2003. Having studied Art
 portunities to develop and present ideas and                                                                                                                                                  History, Theatre and Film, he worked in Ghent’s
 projects that will be beneficial to both the fash-                                                                                                                                            Baronian Lambert gallery then freelanced for
. . . 16   createurope |2009                                                                               . . . 17   createurope |2009




  the Belgian media, producing documentaries on        Créateurs” currently supports 50 young fashion        he worked for 3 three years as an assistant at    store, where UNCONDITIONAL is joined by
  numerous influential artists. In 1988 Dercon was     and design labels and has, since its foundation,      “DIRK BIKKEMBERGS” in Antwerp and Italy,          a few carefully chosen edits of labels that Philip
                    appointed as Director of Pro-      aided 110 young labels.                                                before creating his own label    loves, and that have limited availability in Lon-
                    gramming at New York’s P.S.1                                                                              “Dirk Schönberger Men +          don: Cathy Pill, Christian Wijnants and Marc Le
                    Contemporary Art Centre, and FRANCINE PAIRON                                                              Women”. He is now Creative       Bihan that complement UNCONDITIONAL …
                    became the founding director of    Institut Français de la Mode, Head of the Design                       Director at “JOOP!” Ham-         and some limited edition candles , jewellery and
                    Rotterdam’s Witte de With Cen-     Programs, Paris                                                        burg. Besides creative various   gifts. Philip: “I’m not really a fan of monobrand
                    tre in 1991. In 1995 he took on                                                                           projects, such as the design of  stores and hate one label worn from head to toe”.
                    direction of the Dutch pavilion    Having studied art history and fashion design,                         Mick Jagger’s and Keith Rich-
  at the Venice Biennale and in 1996 curated the       Franc' Pairon founded and directed the Atelier        ard’s “40 Licks” world tour, as well as U2’s SLAVA ZAITSEV
  exhibition “Face à l´Histoire” for the Pompidou      de Création de Mode de La Cambre from 1986            “Elevation” world tour, Dirk has also lectured
  Centre, Paris.                                                         to 1999. Alongside her profes-      at London’s Royal College of Art and the “Uni-    Associated with Lacroix, Dior, Pierre Cardin and
                                                                         sorship, she also worked as a       versität der Künste” in Berlin.                   Yves Saint Laurent, Slava Zaitsev from Russia
ISABELLE GLEIZE                                                          free-lance designer on concep-                                                                           ranks among the world’s most fa-
                                                                         tual media projects. Francine     PHILIP STEPHENS                                                        mous designers. As artistic head
  After finishing her studies in Paris, France, Isa-                     Pairon joined IFM in 1999 to        Fashion Designer with his own Label Unconditional                    of the Experimental Technical
  belle Gleize worked in an insurance compa-                             found a new fashion design          and founder of the PR Agency Concrete, London                        Sewing Factory, he created spe-
  ny, also in Paris. In 1986, she moved to Lyon,                         Master’s program which aimed                                                                             cialized clothing for female staff
  France, and experienced a change in her vo-          to bring together designers and industry. For the     Philip Stephens worked in various other creative                     before beginning his struggle to
  cational field when she discovered the world         last four years Mrs Pairon has been external as-      industries, including interior design and event                      save fashion from state control.
  of fashion. In 1990, Isabelle                        sessor for Central St Martin's in London, and is                       management before he start-      After success at Moscow’s International Festival
  Gleize played a significant                          currently IFM International Fashion and Acces-                         ed Concrete PR in 1996. Later    of Fashion in 1967, Zaitsev was recognized in
  part in the foundation of “ES-                       sory Design Program Director.                                          he opened the Concrete store     the West as the leader of Soviet fashion: the
  MOD International School”                                                                                                   where he also sold his own label “Red Dior”. Since 1982 Zaitsev has created in-
  in Lyon, and the following                         DIRK SCHÖNBERGER                                                         Unconditional that was estab-    ternationally acclaimed collections and in 1989
  year became director, a posi-                        Creative Director at Joop!                                             lished in 2003. Unconditional    was recognized as one of the Five Best World
  tion she held for 13 years.                                                                                                 was originally only sold in Con- Designers.
  From 2003 till 2004, she taught at the “Univer-      Dirk Schönberger was born in Cologne,                 crete but is now stocked in almost 100 men's
  sité de la Mode” and in 2003 was named direc-        Germany and attended the ESMOD fashion                and women's stores worldwide. In July 2008
  tor of “Le Village des Créateurs”. “Le Village des   school in Munich. After receiving his degree,         Philip opened the first UNCONDITIONAL+
. . . 18   createurope |2009                                                                                           . . . 19   createurope |2009




    “A MIXTURE OF CURIOSITY AND PERSONAL less of the outcome. I think it is very important. It                         At the beginning I asked myself if fashion really           What role does the Goethe-Institut play, with its
    GAIN”                                                should stimulate creativity in people and not be              needs another competition. I think it is commend-           cross-cultural approach that has successfully been
                                                         used to make business. They can accelerate at full            able that firms initiate competitions. However, in          implemented in the competition?
    Mr. Schönberger, this will be the second time you speed without having to think about commercial                   most cases it doesn’t exceed certain conditions
    support createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN success – that is their luxury. But this is just a small                   and the actual show. Like I said, it is important that    The idea of the Goethe-Institut is to be represented
    AWARD and ever since the project was founded step – the important stuff happens afterwards.                        sustainability is achieved that goes beyond just the      globally – I think it is exciting and sensible to con-
    in 2008, you have been its loyal Patron. What is                                                                   show and jury decision. createurope is not just a         nect that with an international competition. That’s
    your motivation and what do you find attractive          One show is not enough for a designer to inde-            competition: they make an effort to support the sus-      what excited me about the project. There are two
    about createurope?                                       pendently establish him/herself long-term on the          tainability of the finalists and winners with different   things I wish for. First that fashion is considered ob-
                                                             market. How important is the follow-up?                   projects, workshops, symposia and the Creative            jects of cultural value and that it is thought of as
It is a mixture of curiosity and personal gain. I find                                                                 Lab Showroom – more than most other competi-              culture everyday on the streets. On the other hand
it very interesting and inspiring to see what young Extremly important! One always has the well-                                                                                              I wish that fashion is not placed on a
designers are accomplishing. I have been working known 15 minutes of fame. But afterwards is when                                                                                             pedal stool and considered art. In Ger-
as a designer for many years now and my job is the real work begins. The difference between fash-                                                                                             many especially there is a tendency to-
relatively restrained. I exist in a type of bubble ion and other artistic professions is that fashion                                                                                         ward this extreme. Fashion should nei-
and despite doing as much as I can to inform my- expects something new every 6 months. It is not                                                                                              ther have a purely artistic nor a purely
self, a lot still escapes me. I sometimes forget how called “the fashion business” for nothing. The busi-                                                                                     industrial focus. But, as is perfected in
much creativity there is out there and my own cre- ness side really plays a large role and it does not                                                                                        Belgium, a commercial and artistic mix-
ative freedom pays the price. That’s why I think suffice to just win competitions. You need to keep                                                                                           ture. Germany still has a lot to learn. In
it’s beautiful to see how young designers use this the pace and invest for years until you have your                                                                                          this country, fashion still has a reputa-
freedom – or still can. It is a great inspiration to me. first success. But it is difficult to learn. Principally, a                                                                          tion as being a spectacular show, with
                                                         fashion company or organization is needed that                                                                                       big hair, lots of make-up and drama.
    The success of a designer is not only due to cre- takes the designers by the hand and helps them                   KIM BERIT HEPPELMANN, DIRK SCHÖNBERGER, POLA KARDUM, MARIA             We see it everyday in television. The
                                                                                                                       BOUSSEVA, MICHAEL KAMPE, HOAI VO, TUTIA SCHAAD, ANTONIA FUNMI BELLO,
    ativity and talent. Young designers receive much through the first few years – but that is utopian.                SONJA KREUZBURG                                                        glamour and press promote the clean
    needed media attention by participating in com- That’s why anything that can support the sustain-                                                                                       surface. But it is a hard job that requires
    petitions. Would you recommend young designers ability is fantastic.                                                                                                                    a lot of passion.
    to participate in award shows?                                                                                     tions can say for themselves. A team independent
                                                             createurope is not the only fashion award. What           of the sponsors is responsible for the artistic cre-         How do you rate the quality of the entrees and
Definitely! Every designer needs publicity. And              makes it special in comparison to other fashion           ation and direction of the project. This indicates a         under what criteria do you choose the prize
award shows create publicity and attention regard-           and creative awards?                                      certain amount of unselfishness.                             winners?
...20   createurope |2009


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Participating
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           countries
I was very impressed by the work of the entrees           But many companies, especially in Germany, are
this year and it didn’t matter from which country or      still reluctant to work with young creative people.
school they came from. Many of the designers had          Graduate collections by students still look very artsy
an individual signature that distinguished them. It       in Germany. However, a rapid development is cur-




                                                                                                                     Maria Bousseva, Collection Entitled: The goddess of the future. A collection inspired by the image of the woman in the new century.
is very important to find your own language and           rently taking place in German design schools. The
niche and be consistent to you style. It is disap-        development is moving toward a wearable avant-
pointing for me to stand in front of a model that is      garde style that is not based on traditional costume.
wearing for example, a copy of a Prada design             I find it a very positive development, as it is not only
from three seasons ago. Emulating your hero is            about making a statement, but also about finding a
not the right way to gain attention. An individual        specific audience. These collections can hold their
expression needs to be noticeable. Another thing          own on an international level.
I admire is if you can personally connect to their
collection. Of course I see things differently and                                                                                                                                                                                                         Statistics - createurope 2009
believe one can wear many things. What I don’t            DIRK SCHÖNBERGER, createurope Patron and
like is when there is a negative sense of costume,        Creative Director at Joop! was interviewed by                                                                                                                                                    Number of participants               Number of participants
of dressing up. That’s when it gets difficult.            KARIN LEIBERG.                                                                                                                                                                                   according to country (total: 1100)   according to age

   Fashion is always in search of new ideas and stim-
                                                After studying fashion design, Karin Leiberg worked
   ulus. How far does the industry use the creativity
                                                in trend forecasting in the US and today corre-
   that is offered in competitions? Do such competi-
                                                sponds as journalist for fashion trade publication
   tions help at all in opening doors for young talent?
                                                Sportswear International Magazine. In addition she
                                                works as a freelance fashion consultant and press
That is the ultimate goal. Many companies are advisor based in Berlin. Since 2007 she also holds
already watching young upcoming designers – an lectureship at the Fashion Department at the Uni-
companies go to schools or visits competitions. versity of the Arts, Berlin.
                                                                                                                                                           ...22
                                                                                                                                                           createurope |2009




Maria Bousseva, Collection Entitled: The goddess of the future. A collection inspired by the image of the woman in the new century.
Photographer: Benjamin Pritzkuleit; Models: Charlotte and Nastasja (Bond Models); Make-Up & Hair: Aga Schillert and Tatjana Bedeker
(Maggie B Berlin); Design, Styling & Art Direction: Maria Bousseva
                                                                                                                                                           ...23




Laura Theiss, Collection Entitled: The World, the Flesh and the Devil. Photographer: Alexey Sorokin,
Hair & Make-Up: Svetlana Sorokina, Model: Lina@Nevs.
                                                                                                                                                           createurope |2009




                                                                                                                        createurope 2009 - The Finalists
...24   createurope |2009




  ANTONIA FUNMI BELLO, 28, Germany
  Collection Entitled: Splendid Isolation

  Antonia Funmi Bello was born in Baden-Württemberg and moved
  to Berlin in 2001. Here she completed an apprenticeship in tai-
  loring which provided her with practical skills she later used in
                      her studies after enrolling at the University
                      of Applied Sciences in Berlin. Her designs
                      have already been successful, winning
                      second prize in the “Young Talents 2007”
                      competition and working for “Heimspiel”, a
                      fashion label based in Berlin, and “Bruuns
                      Bazaar”, a large brand in Copenhagen.
                      She also gained experience at the Paris
                      Fashion Week, working with designer Kris
                      van Assche, and draping techniques with
                      Tamotsu Kondo.




                                                                      Photographer: Nic Oswald (nicoswald.de)
...26   createurope |2009                                                                                  ...27   createurope |2009




  AMINE BENDRIOUICH, 25, Morocco
  Collection Entitled: Maybe 1 Maybe 2 Maybe More

  Amine Bendriouich is currently living in Morocco, splitting his time
  between Marrakesh, where he was born, and Casablanca, where
  he moved to after completing a degree in Fashion Design and
                         Styling at ESMOD Fashion Design School
                         in Tunis, Tunisia. Amine started drawing
                         at an early age and became interested in
                         fashion design at the age of 16. Amine has
                         made experiences in the world of fashion,
                         working for fashion houses such as “Bogart
                         SA”. He has also created two of his own
                         fledgling brands, collections he has shown
                         at Amsterdam Fashion Week. His t-shirt
                         brand “stounami” is popular with the new
                         cultural scene in Morocco, which enabled
  him to launch his prêt-a-porter brand “AB” and present it interna-
  tionally. His aim is to develop a real fashion culture in Morocco.




                                                                         Photographer: Christiane Wöhler
...28   createurope |2009                                                                                                                                                                                          ...29   createurope |2009




  MARIA BOUSSEVA, 27, Bulgaria
  Collection Entitled: The goddess of the future. A collection inspired by the image of
  the woman in the new century




                                                                                          Photographer: Benjamin Pritzkuleit, Models: Charlotte (Bond Models), Make-Up & Hair: Tatjana Bedeker (Maggie B Berlin)
  Maria Bousseva was born in Bulgaria. She attended school of
  fine arts in Sofia and then moved to Berlin, where she attended
                       elementary studies in Economics. Between
                       2003 and 2008 she studied Fashion De-
                       sign at the University for Applied Sciences
                       in Berlin. During this period, she also took
                       part in an exchange programme with the
                       University College for the Creative Arts in
                       Kent, UK. Since completing her studies, she
                       has worked at fashion houses in Berlin, Lon-
                       don and Sofia and has also had her own
                       work exhibited in July 2008 during Berlin
                       Fashion Week. She is currently living and
                       working in Berlin.




                                                                                          Design, Styling & Art Direction: Maria Bousseva
...30   createurope |2009                                                                           . . . 31   createurope |2009




  KIKI YAN CAO, 29, Denmark/China
  Collection Entitled: Jiang Nan Water Town

  Kiki Yan Cao was born in China and now lives in Copenhagen,
  Denmark. After taking short courses in drawing and design, she
  began her studies of Fashion Design at the Danish College of De-
                       sign in Copenhagen in 2003 and received
                       her MA diploma in 2009. She completed a
                       five months internship at “Baum und Pferdgar-
                       ten”, as well in Copenhagen. Her collection is
                       inspired by her hometown Jiang Nan in China.




                                                                        Photographer: Henrik Brus
...32   createurope |2009                                                                             ...33   createurope |2009




  SAENA CHUN, 29, Germany/France/Korea
  Collection Entitled: Blooming

  Saena Chun was born in Seoul, Korea, where she studied French
  Literature and Fashion Design at the Ewha Women’s University and
  took painting courses at an atelier. She then moved to France and
                       was awarded a Diploma in Womenswear in
                       2006 after attending ESMOD Paris. Saena
                       then remained in Paris to intern and work at
                       a number of different labels, including “Sonia
                       Rykiel” and “Chloé” as a design assistant.
                       During these placements, she learned to
                       develop the technique of draping dresses
                       to create frill and flounce. She is currently
                       living in Berlin and this collection is her first
                       step in developing her own designs.

                            www.saena.eu




                                                                           Photographer: Saena Chun
...34   createurope |2009




  TAMAKI FUJIE, 30, UK/Japan
  Collection Entitled: Fun in Heaven

  Tamaki Fujie studied fashion in her native country of Japan, in
  Belgium, and in the UK, where she is living at the moment. She
  completed her Foundation Diploma in Art and Design at the Sur-
                      rey Institute in 2004 and in 2005 enrolled at
                      Central St. Martins, graduating this year in
                      Fashion Design and Print. During 2007 Ta-
                      maki interned at “Alexander McQueen” in
                      London. The inspiration for her designs came
                      from architectural ornaments in cathedrals,




                                                                      Photographer: Tanja Schimpl, Hair and Make-Up: Tina Pachta, Model : Jodie Giles
                      such as stained-glass windows and religious
                      art, combined with a feeling of the frivolous
                      and hedonistic mood of the age of Rococo
                      and jazz.
...36   createurope |2009                                                                                              ...37   createurope |2009




                                                                      Photographer:Ainhoa Hernández and Jon Enciondo
  MAITANE GALARRAGA LUND, 24, Spain
  Collection Entitled: Maitane Galarraga

  Maitane Galarraga Lund was born in San Sebastian, Spain.
  She studied Styling and Fashion Design at INEDI, the Europe-
  an Institute for Design in Bilbao. She also has qualifications in
                        textiles and screen-printing from the Uni-
                        versity of Design and Fashion “Felicidad
                        Duce” in Barcelona. She has reached the
                        finals of a number of fashion competitions
                        and won first prize at the 22nd National
                        Level Contest "Creamoda 2008". She
                        also collaborated as a dressing assistant
                        with the designers “Antonio Miró” and
                        “Luxoir” in fashion shows such as the Bar-
                        celona Fashion Week. Maitane is currently
                        designing her own clothes and working on
                        future fashion projects.
...38   createurope |2009




  TOBIAS NOE HARBOE, 30, Denmark
  Collection Entitled: ClangBoomSteam

  Tobias Noe Harboe was born in Copenhagen, Denmark. As
  a child he travelled around the world with his family and now
  credits these experiences as helping to develop his creativity.
                      Design and the arts have always been one
                      of his passions, even making crude gar-




                                                                      Photographer: Image photos: Sacha Maric; the 'lookbook' photos and the collages: Tobias Noe Harboe
                      ments for himself at the age of 5. He studied
                      Fashion at the College of Design in Kold-
                      ing, Denmark, and this summer received
                      his MA in Fashion at the Danish College of
                      Design in Copenhagen. He interned with
                      the Danish fashion designer “Henrik Vib-
                      skov” and recently, in collaboration with a
                      friend of his, founded his own fashion label
                      called “Reikall”.

                            www.reikall.com
...40   createurope |2009                                              . . . 41                                                                                  createurope |2009




  LENA HASIBETHER, 31, Germany
  Collection Entitled: Trompe l’oeil

  Lena Hasibether was born in Essen, Germany and now lives in
  Bielefeld. She completed her studies in Fashion Design at the
  University of Applied Sciences, Bielefeld and graduated this
                      year. Her first in-depths contact with profes-
                      sional fashion design was in 2001 when
                      she was working as a dressmaker for a




                                                                       Photographer: Björn Hokamp www.bhokamp.de, Model: Monika Cieslar, monika.cieslar@web.de
                      company based in Düsseldorf that factored
                      custom made clothing in particular for the
                      opera in Amsterdam. During her studies she
                      was part of the creative lead publishing the
                      universities fashion magazine and head
                      of organisation for the universities fashion
                      shows. In 2008 and 2009 she participated
                      in exhibitions at the CPD Düsseldorf and has
                      gained work experiences in an internship at
                      the design team for “Joop! Jeans Women”
                      at the fashion company “Windsor GmbH”,
                      Bielefeld. In 2009, she was selected as a
                      finalist at “Mittelmoda”, the fashion award
                      in Gorizia, Italy and just won the “Furla ac-
                      cessories award” for the most innovative ac-
                      cessory collection in concept, functionality,
                      aesthetics, and in the fabrics' experimenta-
                      tion offered by “Furla Spa”.

                            www.lenahasibether.de
...42   createurope |2009                                                                                                                                          ...43   createurope |2009




  KIM BERIT HEPPELMANN, 32, Germany, Italy
  Collection entitled: Écouture - The Dynamic of a Dress

  Kim Berit Heppelmann was born in Hamburg, Germany. In 1996,
  she started her three-year apprenticeship as a dressmaker in an
  atelier for custom-made garments in her hometown and simulta-
                       neously completed courses in drawing and
                       painting at a local school of arts. In 2001,
                       she enrolled at the Academia di Costume e




                                                                        Photographer: Iris Friedrich, Hair/Make-Up: Nina Heppelmann, Model: Sandy Lowe/Modelwerk
                       di Moda in Rome to study Costume and Fash-
                       ion Design for two years and graduated in
                       Fashion Design at the Academy of Fine Arts
                       in Maastricht. Last year she did a research
                       project during her 3-month scholarship at the
                       Otago Polytechnic University in New Zea-
                       land. Kim has already been successful in
                       numerous fashion competitions and recently
                       got nominated for the “Gen Art's Styles Inter-
                       national Design Competition” in New York.

                            www.kimberit.com
...44   createurope |2009




  SOFIA HUSSEIN, 25, Bulgaria / Germany
  Collection Entitled: The Return of the Elegance

  Sofia Hussein was born in Sofia, Bulgaria and now lives in Düs-
  seldorf, Germany. Earlier this year, Sofia received her degree in
  Fashion Design from the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences.
                      During her design studies Sofia participated
                      in various fashion shows in Germany and Bul-
                      garia, assisted in an exhibition entitled “Fash-
                      ion in Africa” at the Museum of Ethnology in
                      Hamburg and spent an exchange semester at
                      the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de
                      Madrid in Spain. There she successfully pre-
                      sented a project titled “My bag, my world” at
                      the footwear and leather goods international
                      week “Modecalzado and Iberpiel 2008”. In
                      February 2009, Sofia Hussein was selected
                      as “Artist of the Week” by the international
                      online magazine ”Public Republic”.

                            www.myspace.com/sofiafromsofia




                                                                         Photographer: Claudia Höhne
...46   createurope |2009                                                                                                                                                    ...47   createurope |2009




  ANNE MARIE SKJOLDAGER JENSEN, 27, Denmark
  Collection Entitled: One Eye Laughing, the Other Crying

  Anne Marie Skjoldager Jensen was born in Aarhus, Denmark.
  She moved to Copenhagen to study at The Danish Design
  School, from where she graduated in Fashion Design in 2009.
                     After completing her studies in textile design




                                                                      Photographer: Brian Buchard, Model: Sofie-Kristine Høinæs (Scoopmodels), Make-Up artist: Rikke Olsen
                     in 2007, Anne Marie moved to Paris, where
                     she studied under Gaspard Jurkievich at
                     the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Arts
                     Decoratifs. In 2008 Anne Marie interned at
                     Bernhard Wilhelm’s Atelier in Paris as well
                     as at John Galliano’s Studio in Paris, where
                     she worked on haute couture jewellery. Dur-
                     ing her studies in France she also worked
                     for Danish designer Ann Hagen in her Paris
                     showroom. Anne Marie is currently living in
                     Paris.

                            www.amskjoldager.com
...48   createurope |2009




  MICHAEL KAMPE, 22, Belgium/Germany
  Collection Entitled: Cape of Good Hope

  Michael Kampe was born in Hamburg, Germany, and moved
  to Berlin at the age of 7. His fascination for fashion design first
  developed while he was taking his school exams in Fine Arts. Af-
                       ter graduating, he completed a six months
                       internship at the traditional German tailor
                       "Atelier Dominik" in Berlin. Michael then be-
                       gan his studies in Fashion Design at the Uni-
                       versity of Pforzheim. He is currently working
                       towards further fashion qualifications at the
                       Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Bel-
                       gium. He has already had success with his
                       designs, including being awarded the "Peek
                       and Cloppenburg Golfdays Design Award
                       2007".
                                                               Photographer: Anya Blum; Models: Dries Rombouts and
                                                               Maarten Kooiman; Make-Up: Bart Colpaerts
...50   createurope |2009                                                                        . . . 51   createurope |2009




  POLA KARDUM, 24, Germany
  Collection Entitled: Abyssal Plain

  Pola Kardum was born in Berlin Germany, where she is currently
  residing and completing her Bachelor of Design at ESMOD in
  July 2009. She has already gained experience in the fashion
                    world through various work placements
                    and internships in 2006 she designed and
                    made haute couture pieces for Birgitt Neppl
                    and assisted the production of two fashion
                    shows. She has also worked for the Berlin la-
                    bel “East Berlin”, where she designed prints
                    and sewed, and most recently for “Future
                    Classics” in London where she assisted in
                    the 2008 A/W design and production.

                            www.pola-kardum.de




                                                                    Photographer: Stefan Kraul
...52   createurope |2009




  ALEXANDRA KIESEL, 26, Germany
  Collection Entitled: blaintechnologie

  Alexandra Kiesel was born near Leipzig, Germany. After com-
  pleting an apprenticeship as a dressmaker in Leipzig she moved
  to Berlin to study Fashion at the Kunsthochschule Weißensee.
                      During her degree she took part in an ex-
                      change programme to study Mixed Media
                      in Vienna at the Universität für Angewandte
                      Kunst, with Erwin Wurm as professor. She
                      has previously shown her own collection
                      in numerous fashion shows, including Ber-
                      lin Fashion Week, and has also completed
                      fashion internships with labels such as BLESS
                      in Berlin. It was here that Alexandra met Aya
                      Kikutani from Japan, with whom she created
                      the collection. Alexandra has already had
                      success with international fashion awards in-
                      cluding the “Crossover” fashion competition
                      in New York and since 2007 has received a
                      fashion design scholarship from the “Studien-




                                                                      Photographer: Anne Kathrin Schumann
                      stiftung des Deutschen Volkes”. Alexandra has
                      also done styling work for a number of German
                      films, such as “The Reader” and the “Baader
                      Meinhof-Komplex”.

                            www.finnk.de
...54   createurope |2009                                            ...55   createurope |2009




  HWA KIM, 24, UK/South Korea
  Collection Entitled: A Happy Dreamer

  Hwa Kim was born in South Korea and moved to London to
  study fashion. During her studies at the London College of Fash-
  ion she discovered her passion for menswear and it is in this
                      area that she prefers to design. Hwa’s de-
                      signs fuse menswear’s traditional and clas-
                      sic element with commercial awareness and
                      a creative and experimental factor. She has
                      been employed by a number of different
                      menswear labels in London and worked at
                      “J.W. Anderson” as a head pattern cutter in
                      2008. Her collections have been success-
                      ful in competitions; this year she won first
                      prize in the “Nina de York Prize for Fashion
                      Illustration”, and recently ASOS named her
                      one of the menswear winners of the “ASOS
                      LTD 100 Competition". Selected garments
                      she has designed were sold through the com-
                      pany’s website during the summer of 2009.

                            www.hwakim.co.cc




                                                                                        Photographer: Ji-Hye Kim
...56   createurope |2009                                                                         ...57   createurope |2009




  SONJA KREUZBURG, 22, Germany
  Collection Entitled: Syntopia

  Sonja Kreuzburg was born in Offenbach am Main, Germany.
  After completing schooling in Hannover, she enrolled at the
  ESMOD International Fashion School in Berlin and graduated
                     this year. She interned at the Berlin based
                     label “Adddress” and has remained in the
                     city since, briefly interrupted by a visit to
                     ESMOD in Tokyo, Japan, for a month in
                     September/ October 2007. Elements of
                     science and art and the union of these so-
                     called opposites inspire her collection.




                                                                     Photographer: Stefan Kraul
...58   createurope |2009                                                                                                 ...59   createurope |2009




  CHRISTINE KRÜGER, 28, Germany
  Collection Entitled: The Loss of Innocence

  Christine Krüger was born in Fulda, Germany. After completing
  internships in the tailoring department of the Deutsches Theater in
  Göttingen and the design department of Kapalua GmbH in Ham-
                         burg, she went on to study for a diploma in
                         Fashion, Textile and Costume Design at the
                         Hamburg University of Applied Sciences.
                         Here she began to focus on knitwear design.
                         She took part in an exhibition in 2006 at the
                         “Galerie für junge Künstler- und DesignerIn-
                         nen” in Berlin. In 2007 she was a finalist at
                         the “ITS#SIX” fashion competition with her
                         own accessory collection. Currently, Christine
                         is interning as a knitting designer at “Diane
                         von Furstenberg” in New York.




                                                                          Photographer: Gesine Born; Models: Modelwerk,
                                                                          Megamodels; Make-Up: Bianca Dittmer
...60   createurope |2009                                                                        . . . 61   createurope |2009




  CAMILLA LASTRINA, 26, Denmark
  Collection Entitled: Tales of a Savage

  Camilla Lastrina was born in Copenhagen, Denmark, where she
  also studied at the Danish Design School, graduating from her MA
  this year. She has already obtained experience working in fashion
                        and is currently employed by IC Companies
                        as a design assistant. Furthermore she was
                        chosen to take part in the“Apolda European
                        Design Award 2008" and also in "Mittelmoda
                        2009" where her designs were shown on the
                        catwalk.




                                                                      Photographer: Simon Birk
...62   createurope |2009                                                                            ...63   createurope |2009




  SHRUTI MODI, 24, Italy/India
  Collection Entitled: Art Alive

  Shruti Modi was born in Calcutta, India. After completing a
  Bachelors degree in Fashion Design at the National Institute
  of Fashion Technology in her home town and studying Jewel-
                     lery Design in Mumbai, she is now residing
                     in Italy and studying for her post gradua-
                     tion course in Fashion Design at the Domus
                     Academy in Milan. She has completed a
                     number of fashion-related internships in her
                     native country, including work for “Swapan
                     & Seema Vachi”; Calcutta based fashion
                     designers and “J J Valaya”, based in Delhi.
                     Shruti loves to work with unusual fabric sur-
                     faces, creating new textures through different
                     techniques such as printing and embroidering.




                                                                      Photographer: Kaustav Saikia
...64   createurope |2009




  NATALIA PEREZ MARTINEZ, 23, Spain
  Collection Entitled: American Perez

  Natalia Perez Martinez was born and currently lives in Barcelona,
  Spain. She studied Fashion Design at ESDI in Barcelona and at
  the University of Southampton in England. She has worked as
                      a Design and Styling Assistant at Martin
                      Lamothe in Barcelona. She was a finalist in
                      Modafad in the 2008 and 2009 edition. In
                      2008 she set up her own label “American
                      Perez”, and has been working on her own
                      collections since, as the company’s Head
                      Designer and Creator. Her label has al-
                      ready had some success, being selected for
                      the final of the ”Modafad Awards” in 2008
                      and being shown in a catwalk show at this
                      year’s Madrid Fashion Week.

                            www.americanperez.com




                                                                      Photographer: Jorge Bolado Moo
...66   createurope |2009                                                ...67                                                              createurope |2009




  TUTIA SCHAAD, 27, Germany/Switzerland/Vietnam
  Collection entitled: EgoNichtNackt

  Tutia Schaad was born in Hanoi, Vietnam and has been a resi-
  dent in Berlin since 2005, where she graduated this year at the
  Kunsthochschule Berlin Weißensee. She has interned at the cre-
                       ative studio of “Givenchy Haute Couture”.
                       Along with assisting in the collection develop-
                       ment, she has designed a range of goods and
                       textures for the Spring-Summer Collection 07.
                       She has been successful in a number of Swiss




                                                                          Concept: Tutia Schaad; Photographers: Stefanie Schleipen/Christian Schwarzenberg
                       competitions, for example she was a finalist
                       at "Podium Feminina 2007” and was nomi-
                       nated for the "Eidgenössische Förderpreise für
                       Design 2009" with her diploma collection.
                       In her work, Tutia likes to combine extremely
                       varied fabrics such as latex with silk in order
                       to create a diverse collaboration of materials
                       and looks.




                                                                          Make-up: Troy Dabski, Model: Johanna Gerber
                            www.ttschaad.blogspot.com
...68   createurope |2009                                                                                                          ...69                      createurope |2009




  LISA SHAHNO, 23, Russia
  Collection Entitled: Squaring the Square

  Lisa Shahno lives and studies in Moscow, Rus-




                                                       Photographer: Lena Vazhenina; Models: Julia Rubakova, Nastya Pilepchuk
  sia. She graduated in Fashion Design from the
  Moscow Mossovet College and is currently
                        enrolled at the Moscow
                        State University for De-
                        sign and Technology,
                        where she is studying
                        Costume Design.
                        While at college Lisa
                        co-founded a project
                        called “In the Buddka”
                        with a friend, designing
                        toys and clothes. This
                        is Lisa’s first full collec-
                        tion; previously she has
                        concentrated on her il-
                        lustration and artistic
                        work, some of which
                        has been shown at the




                                                                                                                                Photographer: Raluca Mocrei
                        annual Moscow street
                        culture exhibition, “Faces
                        & Laces”.

                            www.lisashahno.com
...70   createurope |2009                                            ...71                          createurope |2009




  KATRIN SWITALA, 26, Germany
  Collection entitled: Body as a Landscape

  Katrin Switala was born in Rinteln, Germany, and studied for a
  degree in Fashion Design at the University of Applied Sciences
  in Bielefeld, from where she graduated this year. She also has
                      a qualification in Garment Cutting. Katrin
                      has interned at labels in Berlin, London and
                      Greece, most recently as a design assistant
                      for Sophia Kokosalaki in London. This year
                      she presented a collection at January’s Ber-
                      lin Fashion Week as part of the “Becks Fash-
                      ion Experience”, which she won together
                      with Kamilla Richter, and also at the “De-
                      sign am Rhein 2009” competition with her
                      graduation collection, “Kaleidoscope”.

                            www.richterswitala.com




                                                                     Photographer: Jennifer Endom
...72   createurope |2009                                                                            ...73   createurope |2009




  SHIRLY TAPIRO SABAG, 28, Israel
  Collection Entitled: Tallit

  Shirly Tapiro Sabag was born in Israel. She is a fourth year student
  at Bezalel Academy of Art and Design Jerusalem studying Fashion
  Design. During her studies, Shirly has explored a range of different
                       techniques such as sewing, pattern making,
                       leatherwork, and also jewellery techniques.
                       Shirly has designed a number of collections
                       for women, men and children wear, and
                       also sells her creation in different stores in
                       Israel. Besides her studies, Shirly studies the
                       Kabala. Her collection is inspired by the tra-
                       ditional Jewish prayer shawl, the "Tallit“.




                                                                         Photographer: Shai Halevi
. . . 74   createurope |2009                                                                            ...75   createurope |2009




    BARIS TATAR, 27, Turkey
    Collection Entitled: Reconstructed Body

    After studying graphic design for three years, Barıs Tatar en-
    rolled at the Mimar Sinan University of Fine Arts, Istanbul, where
    he earned his bachelor's degree in 2008 and is currently pursu-
                        ing a master's degree, both in textile and
                        fashion design. During his undergradu-
                        ate studies he completed internships with
                        fashion designers Arzu Kaprol and Hakan
                        Yıldırım. He now works in the design team
                        of “Hey Textile Corp” and makes designs
                        for his own collections. He has been award-
                        ed numerous prizes in fashion design con-
                        tests, for example third prize in “EIB” (Ae-
                        gean Exporters' Associations, 2005) and
                        “Adidas Adicolor” (2006); first prize in the
                        contests of “Denimder Turkishblue” (Turk-
                        ish Denim Manufacturers' Association, 2007)
                        and “LeShow” (Moscow, 2007).

                               www.baristatar.com




                                                                         Photographer: Cihan Alpgiray
. . . 76   createurope |2009                                                                                                                                      ...77   createurope |2009




    LAURA THEISS, 32, Germany/UK/Lithuania
    Collection Entitled: The World, the Flesh and the Devil

    Laura Theiss was born in Lithuania. She has completed her stud-
    ies in her home country and now is living in Germany and in the
    UK. Here she attended Central St. Martins College of Art and
                        Design and was awarded a BA in Fashion
                        Design this year, specialised in knitwear.
                        Laura was chosen by “art-s-talker” for the
                        UK talent directory 2009, which was pre-




                                                                       Photographer: lexey Sorokin, Hair & Make-Up: Svetlana Sorokina, Molel: Lina@Nevs (left),
                        sented in London. She was previously suc-
                        cessful in a sustainable fashion competition
                        at the college and exhibited her collections
                        at the Fashioning and Ethical Industry con-
                        ference in Manchester and the Royal Auto-
                        mobile Club Fashion Show in London. Her
                        work was featured in magazines like Zoot
                        and Fault.

                               www.lauratheiss.com




                                                                       Model: Gana@Profile (right)
...78   createurope |2009




  JÚLIA TRIAY, 26, Spain
  Collection Entitled: Blue Hour

  Júlia Triay was born in Menorca, Spain. She studied both Pho-
  tography and Fashion in Barcelona and has been successful in
  both of these areas. Júlia graduated in Fashion Design this year
                       from the University of Design and Fashion
                       Felicidad Duce in Barcelona what´s more
                       she won the first price of her promotion.
                       Amongst her achievements is an exhibition
                       of her designs at Bread and Butter Barce-
                       lona in 2008, taking part in the “ModaFad
                       fashion show”, also in Barcelona, and being
                       awarded the Ikea award at the “Creamoda
                       show” in Bilbao, Spain.




                                                                     Photographer: Manuel Ruiz, Boy model Sebastian Montañez,
                                                                     Girl model Sara Buxeda
...80   createurope |2009




  HOAI VO, 26, Belgium/Germany/Vietnam
  Collection Entitled: Wrap

  Hoai Vo was born in Vietnam, grew up in Belgium and is currently
  studying in Germany at the Kunsthochschule Weißensee in Berlin.
  She began her studies in 2003 after deciding that a move to the
                      German capital would be an enriching life
                      experience. In 2006 she won the German
                      Academic Exchange Service Award for “Best
                      Foreign Student” and this year she won an
                      “Advancement Award” from the Wilhelm
                      Lorch Foundation. In July of this year she was
                      also selected as a finalist for the “Mittelmoda
                      Fashion Contest”.




                                                                        Photographer: René Fietzek, Hair and Make-Up Artist Kathleen Kelly
                            www.hoaivo.com
...82   createurope |2009                                                                                             ...83   createurope |2009




createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD aims to offer the contestants concrete means to sup-                            The Usedom Baltic Fashion Team invites the designer and covers travel costs, accommodation and
port their careers in the international fashion scene both in terms of visibility as well as in business              presentation of the collection.
development. On that account the following prizes will be awarded by our jury in Berlin.
                                                                                                                      Fashion Patrons offers a place in its coaching program Summer Academy. During the workshops the
Prizes: A prominent jury will award the prize winners in the following three categories:                              participants experience background information about the latest developments in the industry and
                                                                                                                      learn their profession from the point of view of the market. The designers become aware of their per-
                            BEST UPCOMING DESIGNER AWARD for a full Men’s, Women’s or Mixed                           sonal competencies and talents and take the first step in an occupational specification and/or in the
                            collection that stands out because of its creativity, overall presentation, versatility   self-employment. The focus is placed on teaching existential skills and deciphering new movements
                            and distinctiveness.                                                                      on the international fashion scene. Full participation includes 12 personal consultations in which
                                                                                                                      individual questions can be answered and concrete ideas discussed and visualized.
                     The Best Upcoming Designer Award offers a 6 months full-scholarship at Le Village
                     des Créateurs in Lyon, France, including: coaching, accommodation, and flight.
The winner of the Best Upcoming Designer Award will receive assistance to develop a collection,                                                   BEST STUDENT AWARD for the development of an outfit encompassing every-
further training and coaching and marketing advice.                                                                                               thing - from the outlines, to the drawings, to the swatches, to the colour samples,
                                                                                                                                                  to the finished model.

                            BEST AVANTGARDE AWARD for a Men’s, Women’s or Mixed collection that                                                   The "Fashion & Sales Package”: a paid 4 to 6 months work placement in Nürnberg,
                            contains progressive fashion designs, is trend-setting and future orientated.                                         Germany at Quelle´s design, advertising, marketing and distribution departments.
                            These aspects can come from the material, the cut, or the workmanship of the                                          Styling slideshow with the winner´s collection for one printed edition of BLANK
                            pieces.                                                                                                               Magazine.

                   The "One Year Berlin Package": 12 months in Berlin including a flat and show-                                                  AUDIENCE AWARD chosen by the public through online voting.
room/atelier, coaching, presence at fashion fairs, patronage by established fashion designers if
wished. Cover Shooting with the winner´s collection for one printed edition of BLANK Magazine.                                                    The “Six Month Berlin Package”: 6 months in Berlin including a flat and show-
                                                                                                                                                  room/ atelier, coaching, presence at fashion fairs, patronage by established
The winner of the Best Avantgarde Award will be invited as a guest at BRIDGE OF FASHION in sum-                                                   fashion designers if wished.
mer 2010 where he or she will show his or her collection on Seebrücke Heringsdorf on the island
of Usedom during the open air catwalk of the international prize winners.                                                                         Styling slideshow with the winner´s collection for one printed edition of BLANK
                                                                                                                                                  Magazine.
...84   createurope |2009                                  ...85   createurope |2009




                                                           Trophy “Saint Catherine” for the winners of createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD.

                                                                                                                              THE FIG LEAF.

                                                                                                                               "It is based on the first piece of clothing,
                                                                                                                               the fig leaf. The fig leaf is perforated and
                                                                                                                               rolled so that it forms a volume that has a
                                                                                                                               certain degree of transparence. Through
                                                                                                                               these changes the fig leaf would be less
                                                                                                                               obvious and acquire an abstract quality,
                                                           a little like textile and a little like the forms of clothing. I propose to make the work out of perforated
                                                           copper sheet that would be enamelled green (or, any other colour as a variation red, yellow etc.). The
                                                           object will be free standing and about 30 cm high."

                                                           ANTHONY CRAGG

                                                                                       Tony Cragg, one of the most celebrated British artists at the moment has designed
                                                                                       the trophies named after “Saint Catherine of Alexandria”, the patron saint of
                                                                                       fashion designers. www.tony-cragg.com




                            Photograpaher: Philipp Wente
...86   createurope |2009                                                                                    ...87   createurope |2009




POWER TO THE PEOPLE – How the streets have This development has its roots in the 1970s and                   frayed and without seams but draped like Haute         the producers of clothing labels. It is a bartering
reclaimed the catwalk                                  80s, when magazines such as The Face or i-D           Couture. His colours are earthy; the wearer of his     system – not a bartering of goods but of advertis-
                                                       began, with great style, to portray the fashion       clothes is, in the most elegant of ways, unconven-     ing pages for editorial space. Whoever books a
   The greatest designers in the world reveal their of young people in London. This influenced the           tionally dressed. Originally from Los Angeles, Rick    page of advertising will then be reported on fa-
   latest collections in New York, London, Milan young designers of the time, such as Jean-Paul              Owens, was a pattern maker in a manufacturing          vourably, whether the collection is relevant or not.
   and Paris. They remain an important catalyst for Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano or            plant which duplicated the fashion of the catwalks     This principle applies to practically every publica-
   fashion. But today it’s just as important to study Rei Kawakubo, to look for new inspiration. Their       in order to produce cheap clothing in the Far East.    tion that reports on fashion, and even more so in
   carefully the catwalks of the Internet and the impact was enormous but it did not succeed in              When this became all too banal he invested ev-         times of economic crisis! For a long time now photo
   “Catwalk of the Street”.                            knocking the old guard of creators off their pedes-   erything he’d learnt into developing his own col-      shootings have not been organised on the basis of
                                                       tals. At the end of the 1980s the Belgians entered    lection. In the meantime, an insider-tip has now be-   contemporary relevance but on the basis of lists
                                                       the scene: they presented a fashion that shocked      come a worldwide bestseller. Owens has his own         from advertisers. For the fashion magazines it is no
For decades it was a natural law of fashion that a great many people because it did not play with            clothing stores in New York, for instance, or in the   longer about the latest developments and trends
everything new, like a holy proclamation, came romantic fantasies but drew its inspiration from              wonderful Palais Royal in Paris. And Rick Owens’       but the maintenance of a well-oiled machine.
from above, from the gods of the discipline, the the streets. Raf Simons drew striking pictures of           style massively influenced other designers, as can
designers and top labels in Paris, Milan, London rebellious youth. He didn’t find inspiration in his-        be seen in the work of young Japanese designers or   But the readers are not as dumb as the publish-
or New York.                                           tory books but at rock festivals or in the anony-     collections from labels like Humanoid from Holland   ers think they are. They have noticed that time in
                                                       mous concrete castles of Belgium’s city suburbs.      or even the style of Olivier Theyskens and Gareth    the magazines appears to have stood still for ten
The international catwalk shows set the trends that Martin Margiela also revealed what was believed          Pugh, Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy or Haider Acker-     years. After reading the hype about the hundredth
the general population later followed. When prêt- to be cool on the peripheries of Paris. Margiela           mann, the latest Belgian phenomenon.                 so-called “must have”, they are turning away from
à-porter arose in the 1960s and 70s and replaced brought to the podium the seemingly irrelevant of the                                                            these uniform, conformist media. And they are dis-
the couture as the leitmotiv of fashion this order everyday. Through exaggeration and caricature he          Rick Owens’ look is inspired by the streets. As covering a new information medium that reflects
remained intact: Paris set the trends, the rest fol- turned the common into an art form.                     is the work of many stylistic designers of today, the fashion realities much better than the glossy
lowed. Even today many people believe that this is                                                           such as Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant or Dries magazines: the Internet.
how fashion functions. And there is no small num- The latest great surprise, since the Belgian phe-          van Noten, Marni, Preen or Missoni. However,
ber of people in the fashion industry itself who still nomenon swamped us, has come from the Ameri-          the looks of these designers are unfortunately no- On a thousand different blogs people are pursu-
believe this to be the case. In recent years though cans: the early work of Marc Jacobs, the oblique         where near as often seen in the established fashion ing their own individual passions and looks. The
the system has changed quite fundamentally, per- Thom Browne and of course Rick Owens, one of                magazines as are the creations of Chanel, Louis street-style blogs are the latest thing. And they are
haps completely turned around. What functions the most style-setting designers of our time. Owens            Vuitton, Dior or Armani. This is because a creative- often much more original and closer to the streets
today, in the everyday, inspires and influences the produces divine leather jackets and asymmetrical         resistant system of dependence has established it- than the magazines. The most beautiful women
orientation of the designer.                           pieces of clothing from paper-thin cotton-jersey,     self in recent years between the fashion press and and the most captivating portraits are to be found
...88   createurope |2009                                                                                          ...89   createurope |2009




on Garance Doré from Paris (www.garancedore.              drijver from Lanvin, as a source of inspiration. One     dogma but is instead bound – for all sits latent uni-
fr); the weirdest characters and party animals are        can see this in The Selby, an attractively presented     formity – to the maxim of an as-large-as-possible
shot by Play from Zürich (www.playlust.net); a pan-       blog about the living styles of international creators   individuality.
opticon of Berlin style can be seen at Stil in Berlin     (www.theselby.com).
(www.stilinberlin.de); wonderfully elegant people                                                                  To sum up, the street today provides the decisive
can be discovered at Advanced Style (advanced-            What happens on the streets affects fashion much         catalyst for high fashion. The look and feel of the
style.blogspot.com); and everything together – the        more deeply that we realise. Over the last 12            latest menswear, shown in Milan in June 2009,
best of the best – is shown by Scott Schuman, alias       months, as part of the Street Style Project of the       was of clothing already worn, washed and hardly
The Sartorialist (www.thesartorialist.com), certain-      German Fashion Institute in Cologne, thousands of        ironed. Stiff suits and conservative elements were
ly the best known and most important fashion blog-        photographs have been taken of people in Berlin,         no longer an option, as a consequence of the self-
ger in the world.                                         Bielefeld, Cologne and London. In contrast to the        destruction of the heroes of Wall Street. Looking at
                                                          street-style blogs, those photographed are not spe-      the collections of Isabel Marant or D-Squared the
Scott Schuman, who Time magazine counted                  cially selected and posed, but anonymous and se-         evidence could hardly be clearer: it is mainly the
among the hundred most important style influenc-          rialised. The Street Style Project provides a very re-   streets and the people that determine the image of
ers of our time, has just published his first book,       alistic picture of what is worn on the streets today.    fashion, not the designers and the catwalks.
The Sartorialist. Schuman himself states that he          A closer study of these pictures shows that ‘looks’
began his blog out of a passion for fashion and           have completely changed in the last ten years.           By Jeroen van Rooijen
not because of any calculated cunning. He says            What used to be chic or decorous is old-fashioned
he wanted to portray the many interesting people          today. It’s about fractiousness instead of harmony.      Jeroen van Rooijen (39), formerly a fashion de-
he saw on the streets of New York. He always had          Creativity and individuality are much more impor-        signer, is the Fashion and Style Editor of the Neue
the feeling that there was a discrepancy between          tant today as status symbols. The principle of ‘self     Zürcher Zeitung and the NZZ am Sonntag in Zürich,
what was in the showrooms and shop windows                design’ is king. We see that sportswear and denim        Switzerland.
and what he saw on the streets – voilà! The rest          are no longer just trends, but have pervaded ev-
is history: in just four years The Sartorialist has be-   ery nook and cranny of our lives. Today, designer        Translation: Geoff Rodoreda
come a worldwide phenomenon and today Scott               fashion must also measure up to the comfort of this
Schuman is hired by firms like Gant or magazines          ‘urbanwear’. What’s also astounding is the fashion       “Power to the People” was the opening speech of
like GQ and Elle for photo shootings in order to          competence of young men. We call the image of            “FASHION@SOCIETY”.
lend fashion a kind of prickly touch of reality. Scott    what’s seen on the street today ‘Everywear’. It is a     This event was staged by the Federal Agency for
Schuman’s photos hang in the ateliers of the best         picture of universal, democratic and multifaceted,       Civic Education (bpb) together with the Goethe-
fashion designers in the world, such as Lucas Ossen-      everyday functional fashion. It follows no stylistic     Institut in Berlin in September 2009.
...90   createurope |2009                                                                                         . . . 91   createurope |2009




FASHION WITHOUT BORDERS – Young                          lection reflects on the relationship between rigid         Berlin inspiration                                    China. No curriculum vitae these days is complete
                                                                                                                       .            .
Designers Must Be Highly Mobile                          and dynamic surfaces.                                    Agne Kuzmickaite adopts a reflective approach,          unless it lists a variety of countries and language
                                                                                                                  and her collections are based on powerful con-          skills. The Esmod Berlin fashion school, for exam-
   These days, international experience is an ad-           Expanding creative possibilities                      cepts. In this sense, the time she spent in Utrecht     ple, has students from 14 countries, among them
   vantage in almost all professions. This is par-       In order to show people in other countries what          gave her an enormous boost. In Berlin, too, she         Iraq, China and Indonesia. Two foreign languages
   ticularly the case in the world of fashion, as        they are capable of and to develop their profile         has already learnt a great deal. Part of the crea-      are mandatory, and even Mandarin is taught.
   this is a global industry which demands a good        in their own country, it is extremely important for      teurope prize involves free coaching, which has
   feeling for other cultures. For young designers       young designers to take part in international com-       given her the chance to learn how to design her         Many of last year’s createurope: THE FASHION
   in particular, it is very important to have spent     petitions like createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN           own fashion show. She finds the art scene in Berlin     DESIGN AWARD finalists did not study in the
   time in a variety of countries. The createurope:      AWARD. The prize is awarded by the Goethe-Insti-         very inspiring. The fashion scene is much bigger        country in which they were born. This is also true
   THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD competition                  tut in cooperation with various partners – the next      than in her home country, she says, and she likes       of the German entrants. Cem Cako, for instance,
   initiated by the Goethe-Institut also boosts in-      award will be on 23 October 2009 – and aims to           looking round the shops.                                is from near Stuttgart, but chose to study fashion
   ternational networking.                               promote young designers at the international level.                                                              in the Belgian city of Antwerp. After graduating,
                                                         “The presentation of one’s creations must be as inter-   What is more, many young designers in Berlin            the 28-year-old was an assistant to Helmut Lang in
      .           .                                                                         .          .                                             .            .
Agne Kuzmickaite, a young Lithuanian fashion de-         national as possible”, agrees Agne Kuzmickaite. “The     have their own labels, and Agne Kuzmickaite is          New York, worked in Los Angeles and at the Burg-
signer, has already worked in many different coun-       prize drew a lot of attention to me in my homeland.”     currently thinking about establishing her own label     theater in Vienna, and twice won prizes at the Mit-
tries. She spent most of 2009 in Berlin as winner        As winner of the prize, she was provided with an         too. So far, her work – shopoholic was followed         telmoda Award Italy. “To interpret the current zeit-
of createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD.                apartment in Berlin for one year. “International ex-     by the co-dependency collection in which an ele-        geist in fashion, it is necessary to be familiar with
The sand-coloured dresses with the box-like con-         perience is very important, as it expands the mind       ment missing in one piece of clothing can be found      the key cultures and mentalities”, says Cem Cako.
                   .            .
tours which Agne Kuzmickaite presented at the            and one’s creative possibilities”, she believes.         in another garment – can only be purchased to           “My international work experience has greatly
competition finals in Berlin were minimalistic, intel-                                                            order.                                                  helped me to recognize and build upon my design
ligent and easy to translate into off-the-peg fash-      The petite and single-minded young Lithuanian                                                                    identity.” In July 2010 he is planning to launch his
ion. “My feeling was that my shopoholic collection       studied fashion design at the renowned Vilnius               A feeling for other cultures                        own label for the first time – in Paris.
had potential and could also meet with a good            Academy of Fine Arts, an experience which taught         It is extremely important for young fashion design-
reception outside Lithuania”, explains the fashion       her how important it is to look beyond the national      ers to acquire experience abroad, as an interna-           Fashion globetrotters
designer, who was born in Vilnius in 1981. Her           borders of one’s home country. The Academy runs          tional orientation is part and parcel of their every-   Lisa Uhlenbrock, 27, createurope winner in the cat-
feeling did not deceive her: with shopoholic she         an exchange programme with the Utrecht School            day work. Young designers need to be familiar with      egory “Best Student Award”, was born in Nigeria
won the Best Upcoming Designer Award in Octo-            of the Arts in the Netherlands. “The work that is        the classic fashion centres such as Paris and Lon-      and studied in Arnhem in the Netherlands as well
ber 2008. Featuring rigid paper shopping bags            done there is highly conceptual, and I learnt an         don. Fresh approaches can be found in Lithuania         as at the Royal College of Arts in London. Tarané
packed with the soft fabrics of the clothes, the col-    entirely new way of working”, she explains.              or Moldova, and the very brave go all the way to        Hoock, 30, can likewise boast an impressive
...92   createurope |2009




range of international experience: she presented         2009, Koršunovas staged Maxim Gorky’s drama
her current collection in Copenhagen having taken        Night Asylum at the Norwegian National Theatre
                                                                                          .           .
part in the Moroccan FestiMode Fashion Festival          there – featuring costumes by Agne Kuzmickaite.
and worked in Antwerp, Milan and Paris, while the
degree in architecture she completed before start-       She finances her own collections with her theatre
ing fashion school had also already taken her to         work and would like to present her own show at the
Japan several times.                                     next Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which will be
                                                         taking place in Berlin in January 2010. That would
      .           .
Agne Kuzmickaite also spent a short time studying        be a great career opportunity, but as yet remains a
architecture before beginning her fashion degree         plan for which she is seeking support. Incidentally,
course. Friends and family had tried to persuade         Agne herself recently supported the incipient ca-
her that building houses was a more solid profes-        reer of a young Berlin designer: by buying a highly
sion than fashion design, but their efforts were in      unusual orange, blue and silver jacket from him at
vain. “Even as a child, I wanted to work in the          the flea market in Berlin’s Mauerpark.
                                  .            .
fashion industry”, explains Agne Kuzmickaite. It is                                                                 .           .
                                                                                                                 AGNE KUZMICKAITE
not only the various prizes she has already won          By Stefanie Dörre
that prove how right she was to stick to her guns:
she has also already worked for many years as            Stefanie Dörre is an editor with Berlin city magazine
costume designer for the Lithuanian theatre direc-       “tip”.
tor Oskaras Koršunovas. He is frequently invited to      Translation: Chris Cave
work as guest director at different theatres, as a re-
                  .             .
sult of which Agne Kuzmickaite has already visited       Copyright: Goethe-Institut e. V., Online-Redaktion
many places, most recently Oslo. In the summer of        October 2009
...94   createurope |2009                                                                                ...95   createurope |2009




 INITIATORS:                                                                                              MAIN SPONSOR:

                                                The GOETHE-INSTITUT is the Federal Republic of                                                               Quelle is one of the best known brands in Germany
                                                Germany’s cultural institution operational world-                                                            with 85 years of fashion history. One in every three
                                                wide. We promote the study of German abroad                                                                  households has a Quelle catalogue, and regarding
                                                and encourage international cultural exchange. We                                                            the internet reach Quelle is ranked third with more
                                                also foster knowledge about Germany by providing          than 50 Mio. visits per month. In the past years Quelle has transformed from a traditional mail-order
                                                information on its culture, society and politics.         company to a successful multi-channel provider. Quelle offers home shopping at its best: through cata-
                                                                                                          logues, internet, stationary Quelle-shops, mobile marketing and TV.
 With our network of Goethe-Instituts, Goethe-Centres, cultural societies, reading rooms and exam
 and language centres we have played a central role in the cultural and educational policies of           Fashion has always been the most important driving force for Quelle. This award and all its talents is
 Germany for over 50 years. www.goethe.de                                                                 a source of great creativity - today and in the future. It is an inspiration for Quelle's new brand identity
                                                                                                          and look. Quelle is currently represented in 18 European countries and is therefore an integral part
                                                                                                          of the European fashion scene in East and West.
                                EUNIC - The Association of European Cultural Institutes in
                                Berlin was established in February 2003. Its main aim is to initi-
                                ate and support European cultural activities in the German capi-                                                                           DW-TV – The news, information and
                                tal. It is a forum for the discussion of the challenges, interests,                                                                        culture channel.
                                problems and questions arising in the course of European integra-
                                tion. Besides the close cooperation between the institutes, one of                                                                      DW-TV is Deutsche Welle’s international
                                the main reasons for its establishment is to build up the European                                                                      TV channel, offering worldwide audiences
                                view of culture and the arts emphasizing the different regional cul-      news and information on Germany, Europe and the world: coverage that is independent, objective and
                                tural peculiarities and the evident similarities. Central concerns        reliable. DW-TV broadcasts news every hour on the hour, and up-to-date reporting, magazines, and
 of the association are, in particular, supporting the integration of the new EU members. The 28          documentaries from the worlds of politics, economics, the arts, and sports. Programs are aired world-
 members of EUNIC Berlin work in close cooperation with the Senate of Berlin, the cultural depart-        wide by satellite in German, English, Arabic and Spanish. DW-TV offers tailor-made program schedules
 ment of the Foreign Ministry, and the Federal Government’s culture and media representatives.            for each target region: Europe, Africa, USA, Latin America, the Arab world and Asia. For Asia DW-TV
                                                                                                          broadcasts on two channels: DW-TV ASIA and DW-TV ASIA+, which is predominantly in English. DW-
 In 2006 the Association of European Cultural lnstitutes in Berlin joined the EUNIC-Europe network        TV has a regular worldwide audience of well over 25 million viewers. DW-TV showed the promotional
 which has the aim of strengthening the positions and the roles of the national cultural institutes at    clip for createurope 200 times worldwide.
 the level of the European Union. www.eunic-berlin.eu/www.eunic-europe.eu
...96   createurope |2009                    ...97   createurope |2009




                                 R.E.D.
                            BERLIN HOLDING
                                 GMBH
                                                                                                                        ...99   createurope |2009




                                                                                                                        BACKSTAGE




     Prof. Dr.                Dr. ULRICH SACKER   JENNIFER BROWARCZYK             STEPHANIE RUGEL   ZHANNA RIZANOVYCH   KARIN LEIBERG               ANNABELLE MANDENG   JOHANNES FINKE, DIRK BONN         SHIYIN CAI, THEODORA OMAMBALA,
     MICHAEL JEISMANN                                                                                                                                                                                     MARIO LOMBARDO

                                                                                                                        Team                                                         Show
                                                                                                                        Project Director Prof. Dr. MICHAEL JEISMANN                  Show advisor                     SILVIA KADOLSKY
                                                                                                                        Senior Curator              Dr. ULRICH SACKER                Choreography                     FRANÇOIS PICOT
                                                                                                                        Project Manager      JENNIFER BROWARCZYK
Prof. ILSEMARGRET LUTTMANN,                                                                                             Finances               ZHANNA RIZANOVYCH                     Show Staff          Jasmina Benferhat, Silke Geib,
WARIDI SCHROBSDORFF               THEODORA OMAMBALA   Meeting of the first jury
                                                                                                                        Creative Programme           STEPHANIE RUGEL                                        Noriko Kato, Inga Nietzelt,
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Yvonne Reidelbach, Carla Steinborn
                                                                                                                        Press & Media:                            KARIN LEIBERG
                                                                                                                                                       (Journalist and Consultant) Host                    ANNABELLE MANDENG
                                                                                                                                                                                                         www.annabelle-mandeng.com
                                                                                                                        Photographer                    NICOLAS KNEBEL
                                                                                                                                                        www.perceptum.de Lights and Music Selection  MAX SCHÖNTAG
                                                                                                                                                                              Clip                       MAX SACKER
                                                                                                                        Interns Hans Georg Feldbauer, Maria Fernández,                              www.maxsacker.com
                                                                                                                           Michela Filippini, Susanne Heiden, Saija Hiltunen,
                                                                                                                                Verena Höhn, Georg Hoener, Astrid Klein,
                                                                                                                                 Gosia Kozlowska, Ana Sofia Madureira,
                                                                                                                          Hjoerdis Petersen, Sophie Schling, Rosie Wardle
. . . 10 0   createurope |2009
                                                                                                                                 ´
                                                                                                        Collection SELMA BERISALIC




ULRIK MARTIN LARSEN                         Collection                                 Finalists 2008
                                 ULRIK MARTIN LARSEN




JAN MALAN, SILVIA KADOLSKY, Prof. Dr.
MICHAEL JEISMANN, JENNIFER BROWARCZYK,
GISBERT SCHMIEDER                                                                                       ULRIK MARTIN LARSEN




                                                                       .           .
                                                         Collection AGNE KUZMICKAITE                                                 Collection TARANÉ HOOCK
                               DIRK SCHÖNBERGER,
                            JENNIFER BROWARCZYK
  Collection KARLOTA LASPALAS



                                                         Showroom Opening CreativeLab




                                                                                                            Showroom Opening
                                                                                                            CreativeLab




Symposium FASHION@SOCIETY
KORSAKOW-Show       Fashion Café   Workshop Exhibition




                                                                                  createurope CreativeLab   Collection IRIS VAN HERPEN
Creatively Managed                                       the German government concentrate on the creative
                                                         industries—whether in vocational education, eco-
                                                                                                                                                                                                               After only two years Prashanty applied for a second
                                                                                                                                                                                                               loan in order to be able to market her clothes directly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Brazilians” which makes it possible for them to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          present their products in many of Brazil’s federal
From the catwalk to sustainable development              nomic development or microfinancing. Just as the                                                                                                      to textile shops. On behalf of the German Federal          states and even other countries. Besides the busi-
                                                         federal government promotes cultural or creative                                                                                                      Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development          ness opportunities which this opens for Dona de Paz,
           The role of artistic entrepreneurs            industry in Germany, GTZ on its behalf pursues the                                                                                                    (BMZ), GTZ supports the finance ministry in Sri Lanka the experience of being on the programme raises
              in international cooperation               same goal in partner countries. For the economic                                                                                                      in establishing and advising microfinance institutions. the quality of her work. Thanks to the exchange of
                      as seen by the
                                                         significance of creative professions – from the fashion                                                                                               Granting micro-loans to projects in the textile sector     experience with renowned Brazilian designers, the
                 Deutsche Gesellschaft
           für Technische Zusammenarbeit                 designer and the photographer on up to the archi-                                                                                                     plays a significant role there.                            women involved better able to refine their wares to
                       (GTZ) GmbH                        tect—is growing around the world and also harbours                                                                                                                                                               make them even more attractive. They transform
                                                         enormous potential for the sustainable development                                                                                                    The scene changes: Brazil. Maria da Paz de Melo            fish skins, straw, bark fibres, jute, latex, sugarcane




                                                                                                                 Photos: Capital-Fashion-Week: Mrs. Pantoja, Brasil/Prashanty 1-2: David Bartocha, Sri Lanka
By Randa Kourieh-Ranarivelo                              of the people involved.                                                                                                                               Silva lives in a village near Recife in the northeast of   and precious stones into fashion items and acces-
and Anna Friedemann                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Brazil. The hand      sories. On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for
                                                         Let us take a look at one of our partner countries,                                                                                                                                        embroidered           Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ), GTZ
Hectic activity behind the scenes of fashion shows,      Sri Lanka. This is where Prashanty lives, 25 years                                                                                                                                         articles her family   coordinates Talentos do Brasil jointly with the Brazil-
tables full of sketches, drafts and models, intense      old and a seamstress. In 2004 the tsunami destroyed                                                                                                                                        has been fashion-     ian agriculture ministry. The programme has been
concentration as the photographer takes his pictures     her sewing machine but not her determination. The                                                                                                                                          ing for genera-       running since 2005 and has already benefited more
– the creative sectors of industry have their idiosyn-   young woman applied to the microfinance institu-                                                                                                                                           tions have recent-    than 2000 families.
crasies and follow their own rules. It seems a long      tion BRAC Sri Lanka for a loan in order to get back                                                                                                                                        ly found their way
way from here to our core business, international        on her feet. With the money, not only was she able to                                                                                                                                      into the Brazilian    These two examples make one thing clear: if people
cooperation for sustainable development. But at          have her sewing machine repaired but also to have                                                                                                     capital for the first time – at the Capital Fashion Week can make money with cultural and creative services
second glance it quickly becomes clear that busi-        it equipped with a small electric motor. Now she                                                                                                      in Brasilia. Dona da Paz, the name she is known by         and ideas, that strengthens the country’s culture
ness as an aspect of sustainable development is a        can work faster and produce more than before. The                                                                                                     in her village, along with 54 other women, are part        and with it the cultural identity of its inhabitants.
central pillar in GTZ’s work. Meanwhile more and         turnover in her modest sewing room has risen along                                                                                                                                         of a programme        In short: Creative business also promotes cultural
more of the projects GTZ implements on behalf of         with the demand for a greater variety in garments.                                                                                                                                         called “Talented      development.
. . . 10 9                                    createurope |2009




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                                                                  Publisher: createurope: THE FASHION DESIGN AWARD
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                                                                  Editors:                Prof. Dr. Michael Jeismann, Dr. Ulrich Sacker
                                                                  Producers:              Jennifer Browarczyk, jennifer@createurope.com,
                                                                                          Stephanie Rugel, stephanie@createurope.com

                                                                  Design:                 MZK-Ulf Meyer zu Kueingdorf
                                                                  Guest Authors:          Stefanie Dörre, Karin Leiberg,
                                                                                          Jeroen van Rooijen

                                                                  Translators:            Jesse Bongards, Chris Cave, Stephen Mortimer,
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                                                                  Printing:               Druckhaus Berlin-Mitte GmbH




                                                                                          This product is printed 100% Carbon neutral




JÚLIA TRIAY, Collection Entitled: Blue Hour
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                                                                  Print Run:              2.500 copies, October 2009
“Fashion has three important characteristics: It permanently
reinvents itself and it is a dominant part of our lifestyle. It is the
foundation for a long-term customer-relationship and good
business.

This award embodies the European values by offering an
international and intercultural platform, where young de-
signers of different countries come together and get the
chance to meet real life business. Quelle receives great
creative impulses. We are more than happy to support this
special fashion event! ”

                                      GISBERT SCHMIEDER,
                            Head of Advertising Quelle GmbH
MAITANE GALARRAGA LUND, Collection Entitled: Maitane Galarraga