Upside Down Dress by Tom Scott

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					94    i.d. — December 2006                                                                                                                               …n+n…wear   95

Upside Down Dress by Tom Scott
New York knitwear designer Tom Scott makes sweaters that look         band that resembles a collar and a midriff-size ribbed neckline.
like they belong to your boyfriend—oversize and cuddly with           Even Scott’s name, which he insists is boring, has been inverted
soft fabric bunching up at the neck and sleeves hanging over          on his business card and website in order to make it “a little less
the hands, the kind that fall asymmetrically off one shoulder in      incognito,” he says.
a fetching way. Scott’s garments actually fit beautifully; they’re         A former accessories designer for Ralph Lauren who works in
just not always tailored to the parts you’d expect. A wearer’s head   a Soho loft with three knitting machines, Scott has been build-
may protrude through an armhole, or a ribbed, semi-detached           ing his reputation boutique by boutique. His knitwear has been
waistband drape like a belt; a turtleneck may hang flat over the       featured in Harper’s Bazaar and The New York Times and sells at
bodice like a squared-off breastplate, or a pair of extra sleeves     Barneys and Zero Maria Cornejo, a small shop with outposts in
loop around the throat in the manner of a scarf.                      the West Village and Nolita. But he will soon expand his circle of
     “I like to turn things upside down,” Scott says, and he means    admirers: In the 2006 Design Triennial, which opens this month
it literally: He recently designed an Upside Down Dress in pima       at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, Scott’s work will
cotton for his Spring/Summer 2007 collection. It’s a rectangular      be displayed along with other specimens of radically reconsid-
                                                                                                                                            MARK WEISS

sheath with two sets of long sleeves, one for arms, the other for     ered form. Who knows? Maybe he’ll be moved to turn his name
tying around the waist like a belt. The collection also includes a    right side up again. Upside Down Dress $435;
sweater constructed in the same manner, with a narrow waist- — julie lasky
96    i.d. — December 2006                                                                                                                                                               …n+n…wear   97

                                                              Nike, which launched its eco-
                                                          conscious Considered line two years
                                                          ago as a lifestyle concept, has finally
                                                          greened its performance shoes with
                                                          HUMARA. The midsole and outsole
                                                           snap together to reduce adhesives;
                                                            less parts and overlays in general
                                                         mean better performace—it feels like
                                                         running barefoot—and easy recycling
                                                               once the soles run out; $90.

                                3                                                                                                                               8
                After years of languishing in mom-
                                                                                                                                                Thinking you should never have to
              jeans territory, Keds are suddenly hip
                                                                                                                                                  sacrifice comfort for style, SKINS
               again. They invited graphic designer
                                                                                                                                                 FOOTWEAR founder Mark Klein
                 Eleanor Grosch, long a go-to for
                                                                                                                                                    invited the design firm Banfi
               indie-rock concert posters, to adorn
                                                                                                                                                Zambrelli, as well as Koby Levi and
              their new canvas SKIMMERS with her
                                                                                                                                              Studio Dror, to create a revolutionary
                cuddly prints. As an added bonus,
                                                                                                                                                  two-part system: The outside is a
              she lined half of the collection in faux
                                                                                                                                                collapsible, interchangeable “skin”
                    sherpa; $40.
                                                                                                                                              that will be available in styles ranging
                                                                                                                                                from sneakers to stilettos, and the
                                                                                                                                                 interior is an orthotic “bone” that
                                                                                                                                              gives the shoe a familiar fit even as its
                                                                                                                                               look changes. Contact manufacturer
                                                                                                                                                  for price.

                   4                                                                                The initials “N.T.” in the new BOXING
Traditional galoshes might keep your                                                                 NT Onitsuka Tiger hi-top for women
toes dry, but they don’t make you feel                                                               stand for Naoki Takizawa, a creative
   like a style icon. Enter Tretorn, the                                                              director at Issey Miyake who since
  venerable Swedish manufacturer of                                                                  2003 has produced a line of daywear
 court shoes and rubber boots. For its                                                              under his own name for Miyake stores
  new GALOSHES, Tretorn stamped                                                                      worldwide. Takizawa’s collaboration
 a design approximating its popular                                                                    with Onitsuka, the cult Japanese
 Tournament Trainers onto a rubber                                                                    offshoot of Asics, has classic Asics
     bootie—for an effect not unlike                                                                  stripes rendered in glass fiber on a
   tuxedo T-shirts—so you can tromp                                         1                       cow- and pighide upper and different
                                                                                                   versions of the Onitsuka logo on either
 around in the snow and still feel like
                                                           Puma’s TRAVELLER golf shoe is great     side of the tongue; $370. (212) 439-7822
       you’re wearing sneaks; $50.
                                                           for men, and even better for women:          or
                                                            A collapsible heel saves space when
                                                              packing, while a rubber-studded
                                                           bottom means the shoes can be worn
                                                            on and off the course—though with
                                                             room for all those Chloé wedges in
                                                            your suitcase, why would you? $120.
98      i.d. — December 2006                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        …n+n…wear      99

                                                               7                                                                                                                                                                                              5
                                                Though the JUPITER jeans look like                                                                                                                                                                 Fashionistas can spot a Marni
                                                Francis Bacon painted them with a                                                                                                                                                             flagship from a mile away: Designed
                                                 flayed side of beef, the distressed-                                                                                                                                                         by U.K. architects Sybarite, the stores
                                                 looking denim has actually been                                                                                                                                                                  bear identical signatures, from
                                                  woven that way, thanks to Issey                                                                                                                                                            swooping mirror-finish garment rails
                                                 Miyake and Dai Fujiwara’s A-POC                                                                                                                                                               to whimsical tree-shaped displays.
                                               technology: The needles in the loom                                                                                                                                                            But structural flourishes make each
                                               can be programmed to weave tighter                                                                                                                                                                shop distinct—in the case of the
                                                or looser so that a pattern emerges;                                                                                                                                                            MARNI MADRID location, which
                                                     $845.                                                                                                                                                                   opened this spring, it’s a row of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               lacquered steps that wraps around
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               the sunken showroom, creating an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              amphitheater effect. Marni Madrid,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Calle de Gurtubay, 5, 28001 Madrid,

                                                                                                                                                           The new apparel line from Kidrobot
                                                                                                                                                            might not change the brand’s core
                                                                                                                                                           demo of toy geeks, Tokyo fetishists,
                                                                                                                                                            and urban hipsters, but boy, will it
                                                                                                                                                           give that crowd a case of collector’s
                                                                                                                                                             lust. The pop– and graffiti artist–
                                                                                                                                                            designed hoodies, track jackets, T-
                                                                                                                                                           shirts, and accessories, like the cozy
                                                                                                                                                           TILT BUBBLE HOODY shown here,
                                                                                                                                                             are mostly limited editions, with
                                                                                                                                                            edition numbers stitched into the
                                                                                                                                                            hem to ensure maximum flossing.
                                                                                                                                                          Start coveting now—the first edition’s
                         3                                                                                                                                         already sold out; $140.
      PROPORTION OF BLU is a new line                                                                                                                      
       of men’s and women’s jeans whose
     every measurement, from pocket size
        to the alignment of 18-karat-gold
        rivets, adheres to Euclid’s famous

                                                                                                    MARK WEISS ( PERFUME PALETTE AND TILT BUBBLE HOODY)
       Golden Ratio. Rest assured, it’s not
         just a gimmick—designer Terrell
          Wick has been an architecture-
      lover her whole life, and believes the
       ratio, which is effectively a balance                                                                                                                                                                        1
     between symmetry and asymmetry, is                                                                                                                                                             With his SONIA KASHUK PERFUME
     the source of all natural beauty; $220–                                                                                                                                                          PALETTE for Target, Harry Allen
          $260.                                                                                                                                                              takes the fragrance compact—until
                                                                                                                                                                                                       now an indicator of luxury and
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Frenchness—mass market. Each
                                                                                                                                                                                                      palette contains three solid notes
                                                                                       MARK WEISS

                                                                                                                                                                                                      which can be mixed and matched
                                                                                                                                                                                                    on the skin to create personal scents;

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