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					                       RETAIL: Camilla          LETTER                                                LIST:


                         Staerk opens            FROM:                                              Gen Y’s
                        her first store,        Boston’s                                             favorite
                               page 6.        bohemian                                              “green”
         FASHION: Anna Sui                    neighbor,                                             brands,

       spearheads a                            page 12.                                             page 16.
       campaign to “Save
       the Garment Center,”
       page 3.

           Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 21, 2008 • $2.00


                                                              Rock On By
                                                                       Denim’s always had attitude, and for spring,
                                                                 designers are tuning in to a rockabilly beat. Here,
                                                                   Frankie B.’s studded cotton and elastane denim
                                                                 jacket over Modern Amusement’s cotton shirt and
                                                                 Ksubi’s cotton denim shorts. For more looks from
                                                                         the upcoming Project trade show, running
                                                                        Aug. 26 to 28 in Las Vegas, see Section II.

                                                                A Reversal of Roles:
                                                                American Apparel

                                                                                                                       AS SEEN IN
                                                                Brings Ts to China
                                                                By Lisa Movius
                                                                SHANGHAI — American Apparel’s ambitions
                                                                to buck the conventional wisdom of fashion
                                                                retailing are now poised for export — to China.
                                                                   The retailer is this weekend expected to
                                                                open its first store on the Mainland, in the
                                                                World Trade Center in Beijing, after months
                                                                of delays. American Apparel hopes to open
                                                                four more stores in the country this year
                                                                and faces the daunting task of marketing
                                                                American-made garments to the world’s
                                                                largest apparel producer.
                                                                   “The bottom line is that China is a different
                                                                game for [Western] retailers,” Harry
                                                                Parnass, American Apparel’s director of
                                                                retail development and operations in Asia,
                                                                told WWD. “For example, Zara was here with
                                                                seven people for four years before opening,”
                                                                                           See Role, Page 14

                                                                                                                       WWD — ISSUE 08/21/2008

8           WWD, THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2008
Denim Report

New Owners Look to Revive French Dressing
By Brian Dunn                                                                                                                                          Beach, N.C., has also been car-
                                                                                                                                                       rying the line for about 10 years.
MONTREAL — French Dressing Jeans is                                                                                                                    According to Holden, the line “fits
getting a second chance at life.                                                                                                                       everyone’s purse and their body.”
    As the label approached its 100th                                                                                                                     Beyond the product, Holden
anniversary last year, management was                                                                                                                  also praised the company’s long-
busy contemplating the pending bank-                                                                                                                   standing involvement with chari-
ruptcy of parent company FDJ Monde                                                                                                                     table causes.
Inc. rather than planning a celebration                                                                                                                   “We had an event called Cure by
of its history. In December, the company                                                                                                               Design, which raised over $140,000
filed for bankruptcy protection, throw-                                                                                                                 for breast cancer and they were a
ing the future of the line in doubt.                                                                                                                   major sponsor,” said Holden.
    Six months later in June, a group                                                                                                                     Michelle Kesten of Casual Way
of local apparel industry executives                                                                                                                   in Toronto has been a long-time cus-
picked up the brand for an undisclosed                                                                                                                 tomer because she said FDJ “make
amount and formed a new company,                                                                                                                       a great pair of pants that really fit
dubbed FDJ French Dressing Inc. The                                                                                                                    women. Now we carry tops and jack-
group was headed by Canadian appar-                                                                                                                    ets to complement the line.”
el conglomerate Groupe Corwik Inc.                                                                                                                        “Once you know you’re a Suzanne
and claims annual revenues of more                                                                                                                     or a Kylie, you know the jeans will
than $100 million. With new manage-                                                                                                                    always fit,” she added. “I also like
ment in place and a return to a focus                                                                                                                  the company’s community involve-
on denim product, the company is                                             Len Miller, Noah Stern, Glen Eisenberg and Ayal Twik.                     ment with breast cancer.”
in the midst of relaunching French                                                                                                                        As part of a marketing program
Dressing Jeans for fall.                                                   about 2,000 boutiques and specialty stores                                 designed by Precision Advertising
    “One of the main reasons we bought                                      throughout Canada and the United States. & Promotions, FDJ donates $1 to breast cancer research
the company was the strength of the                                          The 10-oz. jeans are made from 96 percent every time a person tries on a pair of their jeans.
brand and it also complements our                                            denim and 4 percent Lycra. Retail prices               “As part of our co-op advertising program, we also
existing lines,” said Noah Stern,                                            range from $79 to $89.                              send a CD to retailers containing visuals to use in-store
president of Levy Canada Fashion,                                               The jeans come in four styles accord- or to put in their local newspaper. All they have to do
who rescued FDJ along with Corwik                                          ing to body type. The Peggy is a regular rise is drop in the store’s name in the ad,” said Precision
and its senior managers.                                                  with a waistband that sits at the body’s natu- president Glen Eisenberg.
    Levy and Corwik are the Canadian li-                                  ral waistline. The Olivia, a midrise style, sits          Island Breeze has used the material from FDJ for print
censees for a number of lines, including                                 an inch below the body’s natural waistline. ads, billboards and a newsletter, according to Holden.
Liz Claiborne, Betsey Johnson, Perry Ellis,                           The Suzanne features a regular rise with tai-                 The new owners plan to spend $2 million on market-
Dalia, Boca Authentic and Studio London.                              lored hips and slimmer thighs, while the Kylie is ing and promotional initiatives this year to put the focus
    FDJ started in 1908 as Keystone Overall                          a lower rise jean with a waistband that sits two back on FDJ’s roots.
& Pants Manufacturing Ltd. and gradually                             inches below the body’s natural waistline.                     FDJ only sells to boutiques and specialty stores, said
added jeans and jackets. The company did                                “When we were doing our due diligence, we Stern. He said the company has been approached by de-
well from the Seventies through the Nineties,                       visited customers and they all told us to go back to partment stores, but won’t go that route.
but efforts to expand beyond core denim of-                         doing what we do best, which is to make denim for a             “We don’t want to play the high-low promotion game.
ferings into sportswear were rushed and coin-                      40-year-old body and not for a 40-year-old trying to fit It’s part of our four pillars of success — fit, quality, cus-
cided with a declining economy in the U.S.                         into jeans made for an 18-year-old,” explained Stern. tomer service and a commitment to the independent or
    “It’s a more focused line now than in the                     “And once a woman knows what style is right for her, specialty store market.”
past,” said Len Miller, former president of FDJ                   she knows it will fit her season after season.”                    Stern noted that 89 percent of merchandise in Canada
Monde, who briefly retired from the company be-                        Early response from customers has been positive.           was sold on sale last year. But boutiques are built on ser-
fore the new partners installed him as president                     “Once you know your style, the jeans fit every sea-          vice and usually only go on sale at the end of the season.
of the renamed FDJ French Dressing Inc. “We got                  son,” said Janice Burns, who has been carrying the                 Ayal Twik, vice president of FDJ, said bookings for
lost by going casual and adding dressy bot-                           line for the last 10 years at her 3 Generations spring are 25 percent ahead of last year, while repeats
toms, then tops. We’re now taking a rifle ap-                          boutique in Simpsonville, S.C. “It’s a good sell- for fall are also up.
proach rather than a shotgun approach.”           The Kylie, a        er and the only jean line we carry.”                          “The number-one reason is the strength of the
    FDJ targets the 35-plus age group through    low-rise style.         Clarice Holden of Island Breeze in Sunset brand,” said Twik. “It has a cult following.”

Seven For All Mankind Ramps Up Asian Expansion
By Ross Tucker                                                                                                                                            Hong Kong, Mainland China,
                                                                                                                                                          Taiwan and Macau and counts
NEW YORK — Seven For All Mankind is stepping up its expan-                                                                                                brands such as Jean Paul
sion efforts in Asia.                                                                                                                                     Gaultier, MaxMara and Kookai
   The Los Angeles-based premium denim label, owned
      SUPPORTING THE FIGHT                                                                                                                                among its client list.
by manufacturing giant VF Corp., said this week that it
had reached a distribution agreement
                                                                                                                                                             The China partnership was
                                                                                                                                                          quick to bear fruit. On July 3,
with South Korea’s Cheil Industries Inc.                                                                                                                  Seven opened its first interna-
Terms of the agreement were not dis-      Mike Egeck                                                                                                      tional store in Hong Kong’s IFC
closed, but include the planned opening                                                                                                                   mall. Seven and Fairton have
of six shops-in-shops in major depart-                                                                                                                    targeted Beijing, Shenzhen,

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