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                                     ( THIS LIST OF RESTAURANTS ALSO INCLUDES MOORING TIPS )



 I  n order to make it easier for you to set course
    for the best seaside restaurants, we list those
 places where we have repeatedly found good
                                                      barbecue before you have agreed on what you
                                                      will eat.
                                                      D The ambience of a place must have a “charac-
 food, in some, for the over twenty years. As         ter” of its own, something that cannot be upset by
 tastes differ and in order to make it less confus-   a scruffy tablecloth thrown over the remains of
 ing, we have decided that the reasons behind this    some old window shutters as a substitute for a
 selection boil down to the following tenets:         proper table (tablecloths are not regarded as
 D Restaurants (konoba) must not be further away      necessary, anyway).
 than a 15-minute walk, so some restaurants on        D A restaurant has to be run by a family.
 the wrong side of this limit have not made it onto   D The cooking should be done by its either the
 our list no matter how good they otherwise are.      patron or his wife.
 D Delectable, or shall we say outstanding,           D The patron is expected to be a bit of an
 cuisine is the sine qua non, and it must be based    eccentric, that is someone with bags of character.
 on traditional, local grandma’s recipes, while       D You are supposed to have a view of what is
 there is special kudos for culinary invention in     cooking, or at least you are welcome to take a
 preparing new creations based on these princi-       peek through the kitchen door.
 ples.                                                D Modest prices. Although it goes without saying
 D Ideally, everything that goes into the pot         that any food buff would not even contemplate
 should have been grown in one’s own garden, or       complaining after a good meal, he/she may
 at least the ingredients must be absolutely fresh,   perhaps regret spending too much a day later.
 and they must not head for the pot, oven or the      D A desire to sail to this restaurant again.




     mljac mljac




                                                                                             TonËi (Vlaka)
FROM SPLIT
TO DUBROVNIK                                              HVAR
                                                          The town of Hvar - harbour
SPLIT                                                     Luvij, 50 metres west of the cathedral bell
Kibela, near the cathedral of                             tower, Eta i Vjekoslav BracanoviÊ.
St. Dujma, Ivan ©koje.                                    Excellent local wines, with a reputation en-
The best lunches are eaten                                dorsed by a number of national and interna-
here. Cooking stops at 4 p.m.                             tional awards. Outstandingly good dishes come
True Split atmosphere.                           Luviji   from the traditional bread oven (local fish)!

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   Bacchus , in the town                                     are a local variety of tuna-like fish cooked in wine,
   square, Mate JeliËiÊ.                                     fish (gof) with capers, fish with chick peas. The pa-
   Simple lunch meals. Every                                 tron has a special way with barbecued fish.
   day, a different dish (Dal-                               Vatrica, Petar CvitanoviÊ.
   matian-style meat in                                      Below the bell tower of the Church of St.Ciprijan
   sauce!). The regulars in-                                 and Justine. A seafront terrace overlooking the en-
   clude locals too.                                         tire harbour. In addition to other delicious dishes,
                                                             one should also taste the local variety of stew-like
   The cove of Milina, a mile
                                                             pasta and bean stew.
   and a half south-east of
                                Milina
   Hvar’s harbour
                                                             The cove of StonËica
   Milna, Milan »avËiÊ.
                                                             StonËica , the Lincir
   Both the patron and his wife cook all kinds of sea-
                                                             brothers.
   food plus lamb, game, artichokes, snails in local herbs
                                                             The brothers produce
   and fish stew.
                                                             vegetables, fruits, wine
   Kamanjo, Goran Albini-Kamanjo.
                                                             and olive oil, all of which
   Homemade pasta with all kinds of seafood, includ-
                                                             is used in preparing their
   ing crustaceans and fish. Patron Kamanjo and his
                                                             meals. They also have a StonËica
   wife Nada prepare all of
                                                             goat farm and barbecue
   this. She also picks local
                                                             local lamb. A member of their family is the island’s
   herbs, which are used as a
                                                             most famous fisherman when it comes to snappers.
   basis for some ten kinds of
                                                             Anchorage in front of the restaurant in the cove.
   liqueurs.
                                                             There is a shaded area on a sandy beach at the end
   Stay anchored in the bay
                                                             of the cove.
   of Milna.
   THE ISLANDS OF                                            The cove of Mala Travna
   PAKLENI OTOCI                                             Mola Trovna, Senko Karuza.
                                TonËi
   Palmiæana                                                 A totally ecological phi-
   Palmiæana, Dagmar Meneghello.                             losophy in preparing food
   One of the few oldest Adriatic restaurants catering       and excellent local wine
   for yachties. The marina is five minutes away from        of the Plavac variety. The
   the restaurant and you can also anchor in the cove        dried fish and fish stews
   of VinogradiaπÊe on the other side of this tiny is-       prepared by this chef-
   land.                                                     cum-poet are among the
   The Cove of Vlaka                                         Adriatic’s most exquisite
   TonËi, TonËi MatijeviÊ                                    culinary experiences. Tie
   Everything you eat here has been grown in the pa-         up to one of the buoys.                     Mola Trovna
   trons’ own field outside the restaurant. The patron
                                                             LASTOVO
   is also a fisherman. Our suggestion is to order bar-
                                                             The cove of Zaklopatica
   becued fish (trlje) and baked potatoes or a fish stew.
                                                             Triton, Naa i TonËi Jurica Gango.
   Anchorage in the cove.
                                                             The patron is a fan of this island with a vast knowl-
   VIS                                                       edge of its history and marine life. It is this attitude
   Vis’ harbour ∑ Kut                                        and his culinary creativity that shape his cuisine. His
   Pojoda, Zoran BrajËiÊ.                                    favourite trademark is his use of capers. He also
   The most inventive chef                                   serves excellent cuttlefish risotto. The restaurant has
   in the Adriatic, who                                      its own pier with power and water points.
   comes up with two or
                                                             MLJET
   three new recipes every
                                                             Pomena
   year. Particularly delicious Pojoda
                                                             Nine, Pero Matana.

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The chef is a professional who inherited this place     Restaurant within the
from his father. A rare combination of all seafood      namesake sailing club. All
and Mljet game (boar). A pier adjacent to the res-      kinds of barbecued fish.
taurant.
Proæura                                                 Historic centre (next to
Marijina konoba, Marija i Nikola Belin.                 the square of GunduliÊeva
Only homemade and fresh. While Marija is in charge      poljana)
of the cooker, Nikola handles his special variety of    Marco Polo , Mladen
bread oven where he bakes goat meat and fish. A         AvejiÊ.                       Leut
pier adjacent to the restaurant.                        Very tasty cuisine with
                                                        variable menus, as dictated by seasonal offerings. Less
THE BAY OF STON
                                                        known dishes of Dubrovnik’s cuisine are frequently
Kobaπ
                                                        served.
Ribareva kuÊa, Nedjeljko BiliÊ.
Simple homemade grub in a wonderful setting. A CAVTAT
pier adjacent to the restau-                          Leut, Ivo BobiÊ
rant                                                  One of the oldest Adriatic restaurants. Traditional
                                                      home-grown recipies with a touch of innovation
©IPAN
                                                      (scampi risotto). Situated at the end of the harbour
Luka πipanska
                                                      with a view on the sea front where your boat is an-
Kod Marka , Marko
                                                      chored.
PriæmiÊ.
The patron’s sophisticated
recipes refined in the                                FROM SPLIT
course of his pre-retire-
ment years in the most Kod Marka
                                                      TO MURTER
prestigious restaurants and
hotels of Dubrovnik. Part of the restaurant stretches TROGIR
to the seafront where you can tie up, or else you can »elica, the Cvetko family.
use one of the two buoys.                             A ship converted into a
LOPUD                                                 restaurant next to Trogir’s                    Piccolo
Kod PerËina, Zdravko PerËin.                          marina. Patron Saπa,
Zdravko carries on the tradition of this family-run known under his nickname Cvejo, is a veteran of
restaurant where only his own recipes are used. Top- diving and fishing. Today he, together with his son,
class cuisine. You can anchor outside the restaurant still fishes so they cook what they catch. A very good
or tie up in the nearby harbour.                      fish stew.
                                                        VELI DRVENIK
MALI ZATON
                                                        The cove of Krknjaπi
Orsan, the GveroviÊ family.
                                                        Krknjaπi, Ivica ©pika.
The first Adriatic restaurant for yacthies in a fabu-
                                                        What is eaten here is again what patron Ivica catches,
lous location. The top-
                                                        and he also has quite a
class recipes refined by
                                                        reputation as one of the
Nika and Miro GveroviÊ.
                                                        best Dalmatian fisher-
The fame of their black ri-
                                                        men. His wife’s family are
sotto knows no bounda-
                                                        farmers, so all vegetables
ries. There is a designated
                                                        come from their own gar-
pier next to the restaurant.
                                                        dens. Splendid ambience.
DUBROVNIK                                               Anchoring in the cove or
Gruæ (Lapad)                                            tying up to the restau-
Orsan, Sveto PeiÊ.          Orsan                       rant’s pier.                                   Krknjaπi


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   SMOKVICA VELA (THE KORNATI ISLANDS)                    KATINA
   Piccolo, the TurËinov brothers.                        Vela Proversa Channel
   A fisherman’s family who cook what they catch          Mare, Vjekoslav ©eπelja.
   themselves. The lady who runs it cooked for ten        The oldest restaurant in the Kornati. Simple dishes
   years in Murter’s most famous restaurant, Tic-Tac.     as practised by fishermen who have always fre-
   Anchoring in the cove or tying up to the restau-       quented this place as a remote outpost.
   rant’s pier.
                                                          ÆUT
   KORNAT                                                 The cove of HiljaËa
   The cove of Opat                                       Sabuni, Edi Juraga Æmara
   Opat, Mile Boæikov.                                    Fish and crustaceans are cooked by all of the numer-
   The fish caught by the                                 ous family. Anchoring in the well-protected cove.
   patrons are prepared both
                                                          THE ISLAND OF MURTER
   on the barbecue and in
                                                          Murter
   the bread oven. The
                                                          Tic-Tac , Slobodan
   youngest son Ante is a
                                                          PlesliÊ
   professional chef who Ante
                                                          An inspiring cross be-
   also spent some time working in Tic-Tac. There are
                                                          tween tradition and the
   mooring lines in front of the restaurant.
                                                          culinary innovations of
   Vruja                                                  the brother-sister team
   Ante, Ante Jerat.                                      (Slobodan and Dunja-
   A rather authentic setting where the patron, who       the chef). A pinnacle of
   has the reputation as the best fisherman of octopus    Adriatic culinary artistry.
   in the Kornati, cooks octopus stew. There are moor-    Anchoring in front of Tic-Tac
   ing lines attached to both the pier outside the res-   the restaurant to the
   taurant and to the waterfront.                         southwest of the town, or a berth in the marina.




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