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( THIS LIST OF RESTAURANTS ALSO INCLUDES MOORING TIPS )
I n order to make it easier for you to set course
for the best seaside restaurants, we list those
places where we have repeatedly found good
barbecue before you have agreed on what you
D The ambience of a place must have a “charac-
food, in some, for the over twenty years. As ter” of its own, something that cannot be upset by
tastes differ and in order to make it less confus- a scruffy tablecloth thrown over the remains of
ing, we have decided that the reasons behind this some old window shutters as a substitute for a
selection boil down to the following tenets: proper table (tablecloths are not regarded as
D Restaurants (konoba) must not be further away necessary, anyway).
than a 15-minute walk, so some restaurants on D A restaurant has to be run by a family.
the wrong side of this limit have not made it onto D The cooking should be done by its either the
our list no matter how good they otherwise are. patron or his wife.
D Delectable, or shall we say outstanding, D The patron is expected to be a bit of an
cuisine is the sine qua non, and it must be based eccentric, that is someone with bags of character.
on traditional, local grandma’s recipes, while D You are supposed to have a view of what is
there is special kudos for culinary invention in cooking, or at least you are welcome to take a
preparing new creations based on these princi- peek through the kitchen door.
ples. D Modest prices. Although it goes without saying
D Ideally, everything that goes into the pot that any food buff would not even contemplate
should have been grown in one’s own garden, or complaining after a good meal, he/she may
at least the ingredients must be absolutely fresh, perhaps regret spending too much a day later.
and they must not head for the pot, oven or the D A desire to sail to this restaurant again.
TO DUBROVNIK HVAR
The town of Hvar - harbour
SPLIT Luvij, 50 metres west of the cathedral bell
Kibela, near the cathedral of tower, Eta i Vjekoslav BracanoviÊ.
St. Dujma, Ivan ©koje. Excellent local wines, with a reputation en-
The best lunches are eaten dorsed by a number of national and interna-
here. Cooking stops at 4 p.m. tional awards. Outstandingly good dishes come
True Split atmosphere. Luviji from the traditional bread oven (local fish)!
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Bacchus , in the town are a local variety of tuna-like fish cooked in wine,
square, Mate JeliËiÊ. fish (gof) with capers, fish with chick peas. The pa-
Simple lunch meals. Every tron has a special way with barbecued fish.
day, a different dish (Dal- Vatrica, Petar CvitanoviÊ.
matian-style meat in Below the bell tower of the Church of St.Ciprijan
sauce!). The regulars in- and Justine. A seafront terrace overlooking the en-
clude locals too. tire harbour. In addition to other delicious dishes,
one should also taste the local variety of stew-like
The cove of Milina, a mile
pasta and bean stew.
and a half south-east of
The cove of StonËica
Milna, Milan »avËiÊ.
StonËica , the Lincir
Both the patron and his wife cook all kinds of sea-
food plus lamb, game, artichokes, snails in local herbs
The brothers produce
and fish stew.
vegetables, fruits, wine
Kamanjo, Goran Albini-Kamanjo.
and olive oil, all of which
Homemade pasta with all kinds of seafood, includ-
is used in preparing their
ing crustaceans and fish. Patron Kamanjo and his
meals. They also have a StonËica
wife Nada prepare all of
goat farm and barbecue
this. She also picks local
local lamb. A member of their family is the island’s
herbs, which are used as a
most famous fisherman when it comes to snappers.
basis for some ten kinds of
Anchorage in front of the restaurant in the cove.
There is a shaded area on a sandy beach at the end
Stay anchored in the bay
of the cove.
THE ISLANDS OF The cove of Mala Travna
PAKLENI OTOCI Mola Trovna, Senko Karuza.
Palmiæana A totally ecological phi-
Palmiæana, Dagmar Meneghello. losophy in preparing food
One of the few oldest Adriatic restaurants catering and excellent local wine
for yachties. The marina is five minutes away from of the Plavac variety. The
the restaurant and you can also anchor in the cove dried fish and fish stews
of VinogradiaπÊe on the other side of this tiny is- prepared by this chef-
land. cum-poet are among the
The Cove of Vlaka Adriatic’s most exquisite
TonËi, TonËi MatijeviÊ culinary experiences. Tie
Everything you eat here has been grown in the pa- up to one of the buoys. Mola Trovna
trons’ own field outside the restaurant. The patron
is also a fisherman. Our suggestion is to order bar-
The cove of Zaklopatica
becued fish (trlje) and baked potatoes or a fish stew.
Triton, Naa i TonËi Jurica Gango.
Anchorage in the cove.
The patron is a fan of this island with a vast knowl-
VIS edge of its history and marine life. It is this attitude
Vis’ harbour ∑ Kut and his culinary creativity that shape his cuisine. His
Pojoda, Zoran BrajËiÊ. favourite trademark is his use of capers. He also
The most inventive chef serves excellent cuttlefish risotto. The restaurant has
in the Adriatic, who its own pier with power and water points.
comes up with two or
three new recipes every
year. Particularly delicious Pojoda
Nine, Pero Matana.
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The chef is a professional who inherited this place Restaurant within the
from his father. A rare combination of all seafood namesake sailing club. All
and Mljet game (boar). A pier adjacent to the res- kinds of barbecued fish.
Proæura Historic centre (next to
Marijina konoba, Marija i Nikola Belin. the square of GunduliÊeva
Only homemade and fresh. While Marija is in charge poljana)
of the cooker, Nikola handles his special variety of Marco Polo , Mladen
bread oven where he bakes goat meat and fish. A AvejiÊ. Leut
pier adjacent to the restaurant. Very tasty cuisine with
variable menus, as dictated by seasonal offerings. Less
THE BAY OF STON
known dishes of Dubrovnik’s cuisine are frequently
Ribareva kuÊa, Nedjeljko BiliÊ.
Simple homemade grub in a wonderful setting. A CAVTAT
pier adjacent to the restau- Leut, Ivo BobiÊ
rant One of the oldest Adriatic restaurants. Traditional
home-grown recipies with a touch of innovation
(scampi risotto). Situated at the end of the harbour
with a view on the sea front where your boat is an-
Kod Marka , Marko
The patron’s sophisticated
recipes refined in the FROM SPLIT
course of his pre-retire-
ment years in the most Kod Marka
prestigious restaurants and
hotels of Dubrovnik. Part of the restaurant stretches TROGIR
to the seafront where you can tie up, or else you can »elica, the Cvetko family.
use one of the two buoys. A ship converted into a
LOPUD restaurant next to Trogir’s Piccolo
Kod PerËina, Zdravko PerËin. marina. Patron Saπa,
Zdravko carries on the tradition of this family-run known under his nickname Cvejo, is a veteran of
restaurant where only his own recipes are used. Top- diving and fishing. Today he, together with his son,
class cuisine. You can anchor outside the restaurant still fishes so they cook what they catch. A very good
or tie up in the nearby harbour. fish stew.
The cove of Krknjaπi
Orsan, the GveroviÊ family.
Krknjaπi, Ivica ©pika.
The first Adriatic restaurant for yacthies in a fabu-
What is eaten here is again what patron Ivica catches,
lous location. The top-
and he also has quite a
class recipes refined by
reputation as one of the
Nika and Miro GveroviÊ.
best Dalmatian fisher-
The fame of their black ri-
men. His wife’s family are
sotto knows no bounda-
farmers, so all vegetables
ries. There is a designated
come from their own gar-
pier next to the restaurant.
dens. Splendid ambience.
DUBROVNIK Anchoring in the cove or
Gruæ (Lapad) tying up to the restau-
Orsan, Sveto PeiÊ. Orsan rant’s pier. Krknjaπi
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SMOKVICA VELA (THE KORNATI ISLANDS) KATINA
Piccolo, the TurËinov brothers. Vela Proversa Channel
A fisherman’s family who cook what they catch Mare, Vjekoslav ©eπelja.
themselves. The lady who runs it cooked for ten The oldest restaurant in the Kornati. Simple dishes
years in Murter’s most famous restaurant, Tic-Tac. as practised by fishermen who have always fre-
Anchoring in the cove or tying up to the restau- quented this place as a remote outpost.
KORNAT The cove of HiljaËa
The cove of Opat Sabuni, Edi Juraga Æmara
Opat, Mile Boæikov. Fish and crustaceans are cooked by all of the numer-
The fish caught by the ous family. Anchoring in the well-protected cove.
patrons are prepared both
THE ISLAND OF MURTER
on the barbecue and in
the bread oven. The
Tic-Tac , Slobodan
youngest son Ante is a
professional chef who Ante
An inspiring cross be-
also spent some time working in Tic-Tac. There are
tween tradition and the
mooring lines in front of the restaurant.
culinary innovations of
Vruja the brother-sister team
Ante, Ante Jerat. (Slobodan and Dunja-
A rather authentic setting where the patron, who the chef). A pinnacle of
has the reputation as the best fisherman of octopus Adriatic culinary artistry.
in the Kornati, cooks octopus stew. There are moor- Anchoring in front of Tic-Tac
ing lines attached to both the pier outside the res- the restaurant to the
taurant and to the waterfront. southwest of the town, or a berth in the marina.
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