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Studying Dublin

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					Studying Dublin
(Rev. October 2007)
Study Visits
History 1. Dublin Castle Guided tours of the Norman castle take visitors to the place of the origin of Dublin: the black pool at the meeting of the river Poddle and the river Liffey, at the foundation of one of the towers. Also included are the State Apartments. Book in advance and get student or group discount. Address: Dame Street. Phone +353 1 645 8813, e-mail dublincastle@eircom.net and home page www.dublincastle.ie 2. Dublin’s City Hall The beautiful hall of the neo-Classical town hall can be visited without charge, but the multi media exhibition of the history of Dublin in the basement must be paid for. It is well worth a visit. Guided tours can be arranged. Address: Dame Street. Phone +353 1 222 2204, e-mail cityhall@dublincity.ie and home page www.dublincity.ie/your_council/city_hall 3. Dublinia Museum with displays of important episodes in Dublin’s history, especially medieval Dublin. Round off the visit by walking up the tower (Saint Michael’s Tower) with a magnificent view of central Dublin. Buy combined tickets which also cover nearby Christ Church Cathedral. Discount tickets for students and guided tours to be arranged beforehand. Address: Saint Michael’s Hill, Christ Church. Phone +353 1 679 4611, e-mail info@dublinia.ie, marketing@dublinia.ie and home page www.dublinia.ie 4. National Museum of Ireland In both the beautiful old building in Kildare Street and the new museum in Collins Barracks admission is free and there is no need to book tours. The old museum contains permanent exhibitions such as “Ireland’s Gold”. The new one is housed in the former British Royal Barracks, renamed Collins Barracks after the independence, and it houses the exhibition “Easter Rising – Understanding 1916”. Addresses: Kildare Street (old museum) and Benburb Street (Collins Barracks). Phone +353 1 677 7444, e-mail marketing@museum.ie and home page www.museum.ie 5. Custom House The exhibition in the Visitor Centre in this architectural Georgian masterpiece covers the role this important building has played in Irish history. Students are free of charge. Address: Custom House Quay. Phone +353 1 888 2538, fax +353 1 888 2407, e-mail enfo@tascq.ie and web site www.tascq.ie 6. Bank of Ireland The Georgian building is the present headquarters of the national bank, but was built to house the Irish Parliament. Groups must be booked in advance. Address: Foster Place. Phone +353 1 671 2261, e-mail boi.arts@boimail.com and web site www.boi.ie/artscentre

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7. Kilmainham Gaol The “Bastille” of Ireland. Famous jail where all the rebels from the many risings in Ireland have been imprisoned: 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867 and especially 1916. The permanent exhibition focuses on both the 1916 Easter Rising and as well as jails in general (especially on capital punishment). Groups must be booked in advance and admission for students is 2 Euros. Address: Inchicore Road. Phone +353 1 453 5984, fax +353 1 453 2037, e-mail kilmainhamgaol@opw.ie and home page www.heritageireland.ie 8. Glasnevin Cemetery The national cemetery of Ireland containing the tombs of the heroes of Irish history: Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins, Eamon DeValera and many others. Address: Finglas Road. Free guided tours on Wednesday and Friday afternoons at 2:30 pm, phone Mr Shane MacThomais +353 86 8911 683 or +353 1 830 1133 to get an expert and lively account of the cemetery. 9. Sinn Fein Bookshop Free lectures about “the situation of Ireland” from a republican point of view given by spokesmen of Sinn Fein if booked in advance. Address: 58 Parnell Square West. Phone the bookshop +353 1 872 6932 or Sinn Fein Head Office +353 1 872 6100, e-mail sales@sinnfeinbookshop.com and home page www.sinnfeinbookshop.com Literature 10. Dublin Writers Museum Dublin alone boasts three Nobel Prize winners in literature (G.B. Shaw, W.B. Yeats and Samuel Beckett) and presents itself as a city of writers. (Seamus Heaney is the fourth Irish Nobel Prize Winner, but is not a Dubliner). In the museum the facilities include lectures, on tape or live, and also the possibility of having a lecture on one specific author, if booked in advance. Student rates and combined tickets with the James Joyce Museum (at Sandycove) and the Shaw Birthplace Museum. Address: 18 Parnell Square. Phone +353 1 872 2077, fax +353 1 872 2231, e-mail writers@dublintourism.ie and home page www.writersmuseum.com 11. Trinity College, Old Library Visit the Old Library, not only for the illuminated manuscripts (the Book of Kells is only one of them), but also to get the atmosphere in the Long Room above. Book in advance and ask for student rates. Address: College Street. Phone +353 1 896 2320, e-mail adiffley@tcd.ie and home page www.tcd.ie/library/ 12. National Library of Ireland Varying exhibitions and a beautiful reading room upstairs. Free admission. Address: Kildare Street. Phone +353 1 603 0200, e-mail info@nli.ie and home page www.nli.ie 13. Marsh’s Library The oldest public library in Ireland, unchanged over 300 years. Book in advance. Address: Saint Patrick’s Close. Phone +353 1 454 3511, e-mail keeper@marshlibrary.ie and home page www.marshlibrary.ie

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14. Saint Patrick’s Cathedral Mentioned here because of the collection of items that belonged to Jonathan Swift, dean and author of Gulliver’s Travels. See Churches. 15. Oscar Wilde House Oscar Wilde grew up in the house, the son of a Dublin doctor, reputed to be “the dirtiest man in Dublin.” Not much to see but a video presentation of the restoration project, paid for by an American university, told over and over again in the video. Guided tours. Address: 1, Merrion Square. Phone +353 1 662 0281, e-mail mmonahan@amcd.ie or degree@amcd.ie, and home page www.amcd.ie/oscarwildehouse/about html 16. The Shaw Birthplace Museum in the middle-class Victorian house where G.B. Shaw grew up. Closed October to April. Book in advance and get student discount. Address: 33, Synge Street. Phone +353 1 475 0854, email shawhouse@dublintourism.ie and home page www.visitdublin.com 17. James Joyce Centre One of three Joyce museums, this one contains a library and an exhibition. Located in the Georgian house that belonged to “Mr Dennis J. Maginni, professor of dancing etc.”, a historical character used by Joyce in Ulysses. Groups to be booked in advance, and guided tours to Joyce localities in Dublin. Address: 35, North Great George’s Street. Phone +353 1 878 8547, e-mail info@jamesjoyce.ie and home page www.jamesjoyce.ie 18. James Joyce Museum To be found in the Martello tower, one of many built to withstand a possible invasion by Napoleon, in which Joyce stayed for a few days, and from where Stephen Dedalus in Ulysses started out on July 16th, 1904. Contains a museum devoted to the life and works of James Joyce. Closed November – February. Address: Joyce Tower, Sandycove. Phone +353 1 280 9265, e-mail joycetower@dublintourism.ie and home page www.visitdublin.com Fine arts and architecture 20. National Gallery of Ireland The national collection of European and especially Irish paintings, including rooms with works of art of the Yeats family. The museum was modernised and enlarged in 2000 with the Millennium Wing. Admission free. Address: Merrion Square West (old entrance) and Clare Street (new entrance). Phone +353 1 661 5133, e-mail info@ngi.ie and home page www.nationalgallery.ie 21. Dublin City Gallery – The Hugh Lane Museum in a classic Georgian building with works of art of French impressionists and modern Irish painters. One in particular, Francis Bacon, donated his workshop to the museum, which forms a very special and interesting section for which visitors will have to pay. Otherwise the museum is free. Address: Parnell Square North. Phone +353 1 874 1903, e-mail info.hughlane@dublincity.ie and home page www.hughlane.ie 22. Irish Museum of Modern Art

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Ireland’s national institution for contemporary art at Royal Hospital, Kilmainham, formerly a home for veteran soldiers, similar to the Royal Hospital Chelsea in London. The magnificent site includes 17th century buildings, a chapel and medieval burial grounds, once the haunt of “body snatchers”! Address: Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Military Road. Phone +353 1 612 9900, e-mail info@imma.ie and home page www.imma.ie 23. Chester Beatty Library One of the world’s biggest private collections of oriental manuscripts, prints and works of art, founded by Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, so far the only honorary citizen of Ireland. The museum, which also has an instructive exhibition on the world religions, east and west, was elected European Museum of the Year 2002. Free admission, but book for a group visit. Address: Dublin Castle. Phone +353 1 407 0750, e-mail info@cbl.ie and home page www.cbl.ie 24. Number Twenty Nine A completely restored Georgian home of the widow of a wine merchant and paper manufacturer from the 1800s. Guided tours only, which for groups must be booked in advance. Ask for group rates. Address: 29, Fitzwilliam Street Lower. Phone +353 1 702 6165, e-mail numbertwentynine@esb.ie and home page www.esb.ie/education Churches 25. Saint Patrick’s Cathedral The national cathedral of Ireland, built on the site of the well used by Saint Patrick to baptise the first Irishmen. The cathedral from 1191 is first and foremost associated with Jonathan Swift, dean and author of Gulliver’s Travels and other books. Full of memorials to famous Irishmen and companies of soldiers who have fought all over the world: India, South Africa and the European Continent. Often concerts are held here and the choir school was founded in 1432. The choir took part in the first performance of Händel’s Messiah (1742). Student/group rates. Address: Saint Patrick’s Close. Phone +353 1 475 4817, e-mail admin@stpatrickscathedral.ie and home page www.stpatrickscathedral.ie 26. Christ Church Cathedral Located inside the walls of medieval Dublin, the present church is older than Saint Patrick’s Cathedral and an earlier church on this site dates back to the time of the Vikings. Visit the newly modernised exhibition of the history of the church in the crypt. Also find “the cat and the rat”! How were they trapped? Combined tickets for Christ Church Cathedral and Dublinia. Address: Christchurch Place. Phone +353 1 677 8099, e-mail administrator@cccdub.ie and home page www.cccdub.ie 27. Saint Mary’s Pro Cathedral For historical reasons Dublin has two Church of Ireland cathedrals (Protestant) and only one Catholic “Pro Cathedral”, that means a church “standing in the place of a cathedral”, although the city has a large Catholic majority. When “the Pro”, as it is called, was built in 1815, it was not allowed to face the main street. Free admission. Address: Marlborough Street. Phone +353 1 874 5441, e-mail procath@dublindiocese.ie and home page www.procathedral.ie

28. Carmelite Church Whitefriar Street

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Popular Catholic church with reliquaries (St Valentine), shrines (Our Lady of Dublin) and charity work. Free admission. Find out the story of the statue of Our Lady of Dublin. Address: 56, Aungier Street. Phone +353 1 475 8821, e-mail whitefriars@eircom.net and home page www.carmelites.ie 29. University College Church Next to Newman House, the former administration building of University College, at St. Stephen’s Green, the church is connected with Cardinal Henry Newman, founder of University College, the Catholic university. The church is in neo-Byzantine style, has a beautiful interior and is often used for weddings. Free admission. Address: Saint Stephen’s Green South. 30. Saint Michan’s Church and Vaults Church from 1095 in whose vaults there are mummified corpses. Also the tombs of the heroes of the 1798 uprising. Built on the site of an earlier Viking church. Guided tours. Book for groups in advance. Address: Church Street. Phone +353 1 872 4154 and e-mail stmichan@iol.ie Miscellaneous 31. National Museum of Natural History Called “the Dead Zoo” for its many stuffed animals (two million species, half of them insects!), this delightful Victorian museum is also a ”museum of museums” as it has not undergone change for about 80 years. Free admission (and lots of school children!). Address: Merrion Street. Phone +353 1 677 7444, e-mail marketing@museum.ie and home page www.museum.ie 32. Geology Museum, Trinity College The neo-Byzantine Department of Geology building at Trinity College houses an exhibition called “The Story of the Earth”. Ask for the Curator, Dr. Patrick Wyse Jackson, for a guided tour and get a feeling of what it is like to be a student at this old university. Address: Address: College Street. Phone +353 1 608 1477 and e-mail wysjcknp@tcd.ie 33. Guinness Storehouse The newly constructed visitors centre has become a great attraction. The exhibitions deal with the contribution of the breweries to Dublin history, with the brewing itself and the Guinness “empire” in all parts of the world. And enjoy a pint of “the black stuff” at the bar on top of the old storehouse with a fantastic panoramic view of Dublin. But Guinness is no charity institution, as you will find out when you ask for the price of a ticket! Arrange for group visits in advance. Address: Saint James’s Gate. Phone +353 1 408 4800, e-mail guinness-storehouse@guinness.com and home page www.guinness-storehouse.com 34. The Old Jameson Distillery Situated in the old cattle market in the part of Dublin called Smithfield, at the Old Jameson Distillery you can learn about the craft of whiskey making – or taste “just a drop”! Book in advance and get group discounts. Address: Bow Street, Smithfield Village. Phone +353 1 807 2355, e-mail reservations@ojd.ie and web site www.jamesonwhiskey.com

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Study Tasks
1. Saint Stephen’s Green Visit Saint Stephen’s Green and find all the monuments (statues, busts and other works of art) which belong to Dublin history. (In case you have not found them all, look at the signboard in the centre of the park). Write a brief history of Dublin, using the chapter on Dublin history in this book, in which you include the historical persons or events you have met in the monuments in Saint Stephen’s Green. 2. Dublin’s Statues and Monuments Seek out the statues and monuments in the city and ask passers-by what their nicknames are. You may start with “Molly Malone” (“The tart with the cart”) and finish with the new Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Square and the new “Dublin Spire” in O’Connell Street. Do not be surprised that they have more than one nickname – and that some of them are rather naughty! 3. Dublin’s Lost Statues and Monuments Dublin had several historical monuments which were destroyed for political reasons: the Nelson Column, King William of Orange and Queen Victoria among them. Two were blown to pieces and one was “exported” to Australia. Find out what happened and why, and look up Nelson’s head in the Civic Museum. 4. The Martyrs Find out the names of the rebels executed after the 1916 Easter Rising. (Use for instance the exhibition at the National History Museum, Collins Barracks, called “Easter Rising – Understanding 1916” or the exhibition at Kilmainham Gaol.) Then find out which streets and train stations have been named after the rebels, and pay a visit to Arbour Hill Memorial where they lie buried in slaked lime, so that nothing would be left of them! 5. The National Cemetery, Glasnevin Visit the big cemetery, and starting from Roger Casement’s tomb at the foot of the O’Connell Round Tower try to locate, by asking, the graves of Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Brendan Behan and Michael Collins. Whose burial had the biggest following and whose grave has most flowers? And why are there watchtowers guarding the cemetery? Write an essay about your visit. (Study visit 8.) 6. Henrietta Street The street formed the start of the golden age of Georgian Dublin. Go to Henrietta Street and read the plaques at numbers 5 and 7. From this – and the chapter on Dublin history in this book – write a brief history of the historic street. (While you are there look into the grey house that belongs to the King’s Inns at the upper end of the street, and have a look at the stairway to have an impression of former glory. Also walk through the King’s Inns building to have a look at the other side of the inns of court.) 7. The Cathedrals and the Pro

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Visit, preferably during Sunday service, Saint Patrick’s, Christ Church and St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral, and find out the similarities and differences in the religions practised and the church-goers they attract. (It may be a good idea to split up into groups.) 8. O’Connell Street and Moore Street Compare O’Connell Street and Moore Street, which run parallel to each other, only 50-100 meters apart. How do the streets differ architecturally and socially? And how do the prices differ? You may also take into your task a description of Talbot Street on the other side of O’Connell Street. 9. The Famine Monument On the northern side of the Liffey and to the east of Custom House you will find a number of statues. Who do they represent and why are they placed there? Read the names of people (some are very well known!) who have supported the project, and find out the artist’s intentions. Take a photo or a video scene of the group of statues and the new financial centre buildings in the background, and write a caption which comments on the contrast, for instance “Famine and the Celtic Tiger”.. 10. The Coombe Find the street called The Coombe in the district called The Liberties, south of the river Liffey. Discover what is left of the “Coombe Lying-In Hospital” and copy the inscription on the plaque. 11. The 1916 Strongholds Find out what is left of the following buildings which were occupied by the Republican rebels in the 1916 Easter Rising: The General Post Office, Boland’s Mills, Jacob’s Biscuit Factory, Liberty Hall and Royal College of Surgeons. 12. Ireland’s Next Saint? Who was Matt Talbot and where in Dublin do you meet his name? Where is his tomb? Find his statue, look up information in St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral and visit his shrine. Write an essay about him. 13. Saint Patrick’s Park Visit the garden and find the monument called “The Literary Parade”. Take down the names of the authors. How many do you “know”? How many were Nobel Prize winners? Who among the Nobel Prize winners is not mentioned? Why? 14. Jewellers? In Marlborough Street near the Pro Cathedral there is a shop with three gilded balls outside. Find out what the shop sign means and find similar signs in Capel Street and Queen Street. 15. Irish Alamo? Find Moore Street 16 and read the graffiti (if it still exists!). On the gate to one of the new buildings on the other side of the street you will find out why No 16 is important in Irish history. What has happened to the idea of making this house a 1916 memorial site? 16. Changing Dublin One street in Dublin has its name from the author James Joyce, but to give his name to a street in the old “Monto” red-light district is perhaps not a very polite gesture of the City Council. Visit

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James Joyce Street and compare the street as it is today to text 20 in Dear, Dirty Dublin and the end of chapter 2 in Joyce’s A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. Turn your comparisons into an essay, and provide your essay with a suitable title.

17. New immigrants Find out where the immigrant shops in the wake of The Celtic Tiger are located, especially north of the Liffey. What kind of shops are they and which nationalities do the “belong” to? Connect your impressions, the existence of the shops and the kind of goods or services they sell to the phenomenon of the Celtic Tiger. Write an essay with a catching title.

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Dublin – a Great City for Walking
1. The Distribution of Wealth: From North (Henrietta Street) to South (Merrion Square) The aim of the walking tour is to focus on social differences in Dublin seen in the context of Dublin history. Start out in Henrietta Street, the first Georgian street in Dublin (study task 6), turn left at Bolton Street, and continue into Dorset Street. Turn right at Grand Row and you are now in the north-west corner of Parnell Square. Walk round the square, and on the northern side you will find a house with a plaque telling you that it was here the Republican Brotherhood planned the 1916 Easter Rising. You will pass Dublin City Gallery – The Hugh Lane (study visit 21) and Dublin Writers Museum (study visit 10), then cross the street and pay a visit to “The Garden of Remembrance” for the victims of the 1916 Rising. Walk past a small monument with a broken chain, symbolising the break with Great Britain, and make a brief stop at the Parnell Monument. From there have a look at the Georgian style “Lying-In Hospital”, now the Rotunda Hospital, which offered free medical care to Dublin’s expecting mothers. The hospital is very busy, also nowadays, but why not ask for permission to visit the beautiful chapel? Take care, though, that you do not get caught in a child-birth! Cross the street and outside Pat Conway’s Pub you will see an inscription on the wall which says that it was here Patrick Pearse and other rebels surrendered at the end of the Easter Rising. You have now come to Moore Street, a lively market street (study task 8), which is a bit of old Dublin squeezed in between the Ilac shopping centre and O’Connell Street. Look up number 16 and look for aplaque in the wall (study task 15). At the end of Moore Street you enter Henry Street, with its many department stores, young and old (Arnotts in Henry Street and Clerys in O’Connell Street are the old Dublin department stores, before the new international ones.) In Henry Street 100.000 Irishmen go shopping before Christmas – daily! Walk left into O’Connell Street and bend your necks to watch “The Spire of Dublin” (study task 2). Make a visit to St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral (study tasks 7 and 13) and, of course, go into the GPO (General Post Office), the historic site of the 1916 Easter Rising (study task 12). Look at the statue of Cuchulainn in the window, symbolising the Irish martyrs, the bullet holes in the columns and the beautiful ceiling inside. Walk down to the statue of Daniel O’Connell and cross the Liffey on the broad O’Connell Bridge to the south side of the town. Walk up Westmoreland Street and at the end of it you will have Trinity College to your left (study visits 11 and 32) and the Bank of Ireland (study visit 6) on your right. Walk through Trinity College and exit at the Nassau Street gate. Turn left and find Kildare Street. Now you have entered the fashionable part of old Dublin. Have a look at the Kildare Street Club on the corner, where rich men took pleasure in wining and dining, and continue to the National Library (study visit 12) and the National Museum (study visit 4). In between you will find Leinster House, the Irish Parliament. Once you get to the end of Kildare Street you are in Saint Stephen’s Green, where you take a look at the Shelbourne Hotel, from where British soldiers shot at the Easter rebels in 1916 who had dug trenches (!) in Saint Stephen’s Green, from where they wisely retired to the Royal

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College of Surgeons at the other end of the square. Have a stroll and a rest in Saint Stephen’s Green (study task 1), and walk down Merrion Row, past the Huguenot Cemetery. Turn left at Merrion Street, walk by government buildings, the National Museum of Natural History (study visit 31), the National Gallery (study visit 20) and end up at the Oscar Wilde Memorial in Merrion Square (study task 2). 2. Through History: From East (Temple Bar) to West (Kilmainham) on the South Side The walking tour will take you through time: from the Viking beginnings, medieval Dublin, the Liberties, all the way to Kilmainham Gaol and the struggle for independence. A good place to start is the Ha’penny Bridge, built in 1816 and the best loved bridge in Dublin. It got its name in the 1800s when it cost half a penny to cross it! On the south side you are now in the Temple Bar area, named after the main street, which again was named after one of the big landowners in Dublin, Sir William Temple. Today it is the amusement quarters of Dublin, with clubs and nightlife all days of the week. There were other plans for the run-down area twenty years ago, when the city of Dublin considered a huge bus and coach terminal on the grounds, but luckily this was prevented and now it is a thriving place with many cultural activities besides pubs and clubs. Walk through Temple Bar and you will get to a street called College Green, which was outside the city walls of medieval Dublin and truly a green. Turn right and in about 100 metres you reach the City Hall (study visit 2) where you enter the oldest part of Dublin. Behind the City Hall you will find Dublin Castle (study visit 1), with the Chester Beatty Library (study visit 23), which used to be a symbol of British oppression. Further west you will see Christ Church Cathedral (study visit 26) and just a little bit more to the west in Cook Street, north of Saint Audoen’s Church, you find the only remaining piece of the medieval city walls. It is now time to go outside the medieval city to the district called the Liberties. Medieval Dublin had a number of “liberties”, areas outside the jurisdiction of the city, where many trades were allowed to exist, for example weaving and tanning industries, and where immigrants from Europe were allowed to settle, for instance many French Protestant Huguenots. Walk down Nicholas Street and Patrick Street and to your left you will see red-brick buildings belonging to the Iveah Trust, the foundation set up by the Guinness family to provide good housing for the workers at the brewery. In nearby Bull Alley you will find the “Iveagh Trust Play Centre”, popularly called “The Bayno” (from beano, meaning feast) – a reference to the daily bun and cocoa given to school children in former days. Today it is a college. In Saint Patrick’s Park (study task 14) you will find one of Dublin’s most beautiful gardens. It is difficult to believe that this was once one of Europe’s worst slums! Naturally, both Saint Patrick’s Cathedral (study visit 25) and Marsh’s Library (study visit 13) are worth visiting, but then it is time to continue west through Hanover Lane on the other side of Patrick Street. Suddenly you are in the cobbled streets of the Liberties, and from here it is possible to make a detour to The Coombe (study task 11) or turn right in Francis Street, up the street with many antique shops. You will pass by the old Iveagh Markets, also due to the Guinness family, now very dilapidated and maybe the place for a new town development including a brand new hotel. Back in the street called The Cornmarket you turn left, walk into Thomas Street and soon you will make a stop in front of the newly restored Saint Catherine’s Church. It was outside here Robert Emmet held his famous speech before he was hanged in 1803. The next stop needs little arguments: Guinness Storehouse (study visit 33) which is a good halfway house, because the walking tour is far from finished!

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On your feet again continue along Thomas Street and at the fork choose Bow Lane which takes you past Saint Patrick’s Hospital, a mental hospital founded by Jonathan Swift, because as he wrote, “no country needed it so much.” After having crossed a small stream at the bottom of Bow Lane, turn right and walk up to what used to be Royal Hospital Kilmainham (study visit 22). If you are not interested in the Irish Museum of Modern Art you can just watch a video at the reception describing the history of the Royal Hospital. But you may be a bit tired now and want to get to the end of your journey, so walk through the park with a splendid view of this part of Dublin, past the old cemeteries, where body snatchers used to haunt, and you will reach Kilmainham Gaol (study visit 7 and study task 4) after you have left the park. (You may well wonder why the Hilton Hotel has chosen to build a fashionable hotel just across the street!) It is well worth considering taking a bus for your return to the centre of Dublin. Most buses, in the right direction, will take you there. – Or find the new LUAS Red Line station in Suir Road nearby, and go back to the city centre. 3. The Changing City: From East (Docklands) to West (Collins Barracks) on the North Side Today Dublin is undergoing great changes. The recently acquired wealth means that people want more commodities, also in the shape of facilities in Dublin. A new light railway system has been set up, called the LUAS (meaning “light” in Gaelic), which will take off the traffic pressure, and one such train line will follow Abbey Street from east to west and cover part of the walking tour, just in case you are tired. Start out in the new Sean O’Casey pedestrian bridge and look into the dock area. The old docks were built about 1790, after the Custom House was built, and have now been transformed into an international financial services centre and office buildings. It will also contain hotels, a conference centre and restaurants, theatres and film studios. The “Famine” statues (study task 10) are worth seeing, and so is the Custom House (study visit 5), another symbol of British oppression for taking taxes out of Ireland. Turn right at Butt Bridge and you will come across Abbey Street, which you follow towards O’Connell Street. Before reaching O’Connell Street you will have passed the Abbey Theatre, the Irish national theatre. The building is fairly modern and not nearly as charming as the old building, in which W.B. Yeats and Lady Gregory founded the theatre where so many controversial Irish plays were performed, giving Ireland a dramatic tradition which can still be felt today. In O’Connell Street turn right, walk by the GPO (General Post Office) and at the Dublin Spire turn left into Henry Street, the main shopping street. It is possible to make a stop at Wolfe Tone Park (which used to be the cemetery of Saint Mary’s Church, which has today become an expensive restaurant). When you walk to the end of Mary Street and cross Capel Street, you are in the old Oxmantown, the place where the descendants of the Vikings settled. Here you find the main vegetable market in Dublin, in buildings suffering decay, and the underground ruins of Saint Mary’s Abbey, a place associated with one of the first rebellions against the English in 1534, led by Silken Thomas. Turn right at Green Street and you will find another historical site: the much hated prison, the Newgate Gaol. It opened in 1780 and in the still existing court building, next to the torn down prison, Robert Emmet and Wolfe Tone were sentenced to death. Find the monument in the middle of the small park and read the flamboyant inscription! Walk down Halston Street, turn right at the market and left down Georges Hill, and end up in Chancery Street. You are now in a part of Dublin dominated by lawyers and courts, first and foremost the Four Courts. The building was heavily damaged in the Civil War of 1922-23, not

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so much by the bombardment that Michael Collins’ “free staters” inflicted, as by the fact that the Republicans set fire to the building when they left. At the end of Chancery Street you will come upon Church Street with Saint Michan’s Church (study visit 30) and from the signs you see when leaving the church, you will be led to the Old Jameson Distillery (study visit 34). You are now in Smithfield, the old cattle market which was still in existence in the 1960s with live cattle in the middle of Dublin. The Chimney Viewing Tower used to be the chimney of the Jameson Distillery and is today the signpost of Smithfield Village, as it is called. The idea of creating an alternative amusement area to Temple Bar has not really caught on, but the Smithfield Village is still under construction. Walk north to King Street and turn left for the last stage of the walking tour. Across the street called Stoneybatter walk up Arbour Hill where the Arbour Hill Memorial stands (study task 4). Next to it you will find a new prison, and then, when you follow the road to the left, you have almost finished the walk. In Benburb Street you will find Collins Barracks (study visit 4) and Croppies Acre, now Croppies Memorial Park, to your left. The croppies were the rebels of the 1798 rebellion who got the name croppies because of their short hair, a revolutionary fashion coming from France. If possible, the new LUAS light railway will take you back to the centre of Dublin.

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