Digitized Retro Flare Jeans
Remember when your bell bottom jeans just couldn’t be wide enough? Well, believe it or not, bell bottom and wide leg jeans are back in style. You and your young adult will love to make and wear these “Retro Flare Jeans”. Take a step back in time and don’t be surprised if others want to come with you! By: Debbie Cleek Baby Lock Consumer Relations Specialist
Skill Level: Beginner
Paletté software, personal computer with flatbed scanner Esanté ESe-2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine Original Baby Lock blank embroidery card Jumbo or large hoop Sulky™ Tear-Away Plus stabilizer Sulky™ 30 & 40 wt. rayon embroidery thread - assorted colors YLI™ lingerie and bobbin thread Schmetz™ embroidery needles size #75-11 All-purpose sewing thread 1 pair of jeans 1/2 yard medium weight denim fabric 1/2 yard pattern tracing material
Paletté set up is 3.94 x 3.94 page, system unit is set to inches.
1. Scan design page. Crop page so there is little or no black area. 2. Click on file to open the drag down menu. Click on “Save as”. You want to direct your file to save in the data file of your Paletté. To do that, double click on “C” drive, program files, Baby Lock, Paletté, then data. 3. Name the designs “retro jeans” and save as a .bmp file. Now you will be able to go to the Paletté and the design will be there.
1. Open design center in your Paletté. Click on the file folder icon in the top tool bar. Select the file you just named “retro jeans” and open it. Now you are in stage one.
1. Click on the second parrot to move the design to stage 2. You will get the cut out to line image box. Your cursor will change to an eyedropper when held over the design area. 2. Use the eyedropper to select the black outline and click “ok”. In this stage you use the pens and eraser to make any changes to the designs. We will not need to make any changes to these designs in this stage.
1. Click on the third parrot to give you the Figure Object Conversion Setting. The resolution will be set at normal, thinning process turned on, increase cycles to 6. 2. Click on pick area. Your cursor turns to cross-hairs. Click and drag to form a box around the peace design. Click “ok” and you are in stage 3. See Fig. 1
3. In stage 3 you will edit the points on your design to make the lines smooth and fluid. Click on the point edit tool which is the second tool on the left side tool bar. Your cursor changes to a triangle pointer. 4. Click on the outermost line of the peace sign. The line will turn pink and little boxes, or points will appear on the line. Select and delete the points as necessary to get the smooth, fluid lines mentioned earlier. To do this, move your mouse over the point, click on it, and
touch the delete key on your keyboard. Continue this on the other lines in the design until desired look is achieved.
1. Next, move to stage 4 by clicking on the last parrot. We are ready to assign sewing attributes. 2. Assign a fill stitch in the default direction to the peace design. 3. Turn off the line sewing and select the outline. Do not outline the peace sign. 4. Move to the letters and assign each letter the fill stitch in the default direction. Select the line sewing tool and select the “running stitch” for the outline. 5. Click on sewing attributes, line sewing. Decrease the stitch length to 1.0. 6. Close the sewing attributes box and assign each letter a running stitch outline. This design is now complete.
Layout and Editing
1. Import the design into layout and editing by clicking on “Option” to open the drop down menu. Click on “layout and editing”. 2. Once in layout and editing, click on the “import from design center” icon in the top tool bar. 3. The import size box will open. The size was not adjusted. Click on “import.” 4. Once imported into layout and editing, save file as “peace.”
Smile Face Design
1. Follow the same basic instructions for the smile face as in stages 1-3, which will be selected next. 2. On the smile face design, when you have moved to stage 4, select region sewing. 3. Open the sewing attributes box and increase the density to 5.5 and select “under sewing.” See Fig. 2
4. Assign fill stitch to the smile face. While you still have the region sewing tool, change to a satin stitch and assign the satin stitch to the eyes. 5. Select the line sewing tool. Make sure you have running stitch selected. Open the sewing attributes box for line sewing and reduce the run pitch to 1.5. Assign the running stitch to the outline of the eyes.
6. Change from running stitch to zig-zag stitch. Open the sewing attributes box. Reduce the stitch width to 1.5 and increase the density to 5.5. Assign the zigzag to the mouth and the outside of the smile face. This design is now complete. Import the design into layout and editing and save as “smile face."
1. Next, select the smile design. On this design, do not increase the thinning. Keep the double lines. See Fig. 3.
2. From here, follow the previous directions stage 3 for cleaning up the lines, making them smooth and fluid. 3. Move to stage 4. Select the region sew tool and fill stitch. 4. Open the sewing attributes box and increase the density to 5.0. Assign each letter a different color using the fillstitch. 5. Select the line sewing tool and inactivate the line sewing. Select all of the inside lines so they will not sew. 6. Activate line sewing and select zigzag. Open the sewing attributes box, line sewing and decrease the stitch width to 1 and increase the density to 6. Assign the zig zag to the outermost outline. This design is now complete. Import the design into layout and editing and save as “smile”.
1. The “LOVE” design was created in layout and editing. Select font #1 0.70 size. 2. Click on the design page to open the edit text box. Type L O, return, and V E, then click “ok”. 3. Select the point edit tool and select the text design. You will notice a little box on the lower left corner of the letters. Click on the box for the “L”, open the color palette and change the color. Do this with each letter to assign each letter a different color. This design is now complete. Save the design as “LOVE” See Fig. 4.
4. Open file utility and select the option to write from Paletté file to original card. Select the 4 completed designs we have just completed and write them to the card.
Making the Inserts
1. Prepare your jeans by taking out the hem and removing the outside seam stitching up to the knee of the jeans. Press hem and seam allowances flat. 2. Pull back the edges of the jeans making a triangle opening. See Diagram #1.
3. Place a piece of pattern trace over the opening and trace along the opening to make your pattern. Add 1/2 " to the long sides of the triangle for the seam allowance. Cut out the pattern. 4. Trace the pattern using a chalk pencil on the right side of the denim fabric to be used for the inserts. Find and mark the center of the inserts. Do not cut out yet. Center the jumbo hoop over the pattern marked on the denim, making sure the center line is centered in the hoop. Cut fabric to fit in hoop and center design area in hoop. Stabilize the back of the fabric by ironing on the Totally Stable to back side of the insert fabric. Hoop your fabric, centering the insert fabric. See Diagram #2.
1. Set up machine for embroidery, with embroidery unit attached. Be sure you have a bobbin with YLI™ lingerie and bobbin thread in your machine. 2. Select the peace design to stitch first. Touch layout and move the design to the desired position on the insert. See Diagram #3. Stitch design.
3. Continue this with the other designs, placing two designs on each insert. 4. If desired, stitch a smile face on the knee of the jeans, using the hoop-it-all with sulky sticky stabilizer. 5. When stitching is complete remove stabilizer.
1. Set up machine for regular sewing, using all purpose thread in needle and bobbin. 2. Turn jeans inside out. Pin insert to jeans along the long edge of the insert, matching top point of insert with top of opening on jeans. Clip seam allowance at top point of one seam only.
3. Stitch along previous stitching line of the jeans. Finish seam with zig-zag or pinking. 4. Do this for both legs. Press seam to outside of insert, toward jeans. 5. Finish bottom hem as desired.
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