The engine we have been denied

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UPDATE: I have decided that I will do illustrations of this concept, but
they will take time to prepare.

Someone attacked the computer I was using and wiped the screen
and all text when I was typing this to someone online. It involves
making a new type of engine that is very simple and gets at least 300
mpg just like the Volkswagen XL1. I ended up having to switch
computers to complete this report, they don't want this one out there.

So I will go into ALL the bloody details now. To be clear, this design uses
computer controlled temperature regulated steam and does not use
anything like fuel injection, spark plugs or anything else now deemed
"essential".

This is complex, and therefore shills will make hay with it because
many people will be confused. But there is NOTHING wrong with what
is stated here and I repeat the concept with many different word
combinations, so if you don't understand at first, keep reading until
you hit an explanation you understand (this happens after my rip on
Rense.)

The system I am talking about would be a closed loop system where water
would be heated to 700 farenheit which will cause it to have a steam
pressure of 3000 psi and then first released into a tiny piston chamber no
more than 50 cc´s. The first cylinder would have no intake valve, only the
injector. The cylinder has to be small and long, the first cylinder will be
operating at 3,000 psi. This first cylinder would be kept at 700 farenheit.
After taking the first 1,000 psi out of the steam, the "exhaust" from cylinder
1 would then go into a second cylinder twice as large for the next pressure
drop, and the second cylinder would be kept at 550 farenheit and drop the
pressure by an additional 1,000 psi. This would then exhaust into the third
cylinder that would again be twice as large as the preceeding cylinder and
would be kept at around 300 farenheit for the next pressure drop, that
would then exhaust into a condenser for recirculation. Each cylinder would
drop the pressure by about 1000 psi each, as shown by the numbers in the
steam table.

This would require higher than usual temperature lubricants but since the
valve train can operate via piston collision, there won´t need to be a cam
shaft and there will only be a total of three valves and one injector, with all
output valves feeding the input into the next cylinder and the final output
into the condenser. This very simple setup, in which the piston itself
actuates the injector (in the first cylinder,) pulls the exhaust valve open and
slams the exhaust valve shut from piston motion alone (which eliminates
the cam shaft) will reduce the demand for lubrication.

The movement of the piston to full down position opens the exhaust valve
into the next cylinder when the piston in the next cylinder is a few degrees
past top dead center, and the up movement of the first piston will slam the
steam exhaust/intake valve shut and activate the initial injection in the first
cylinder, (as stated, the second two cylinders operate with the steam
introduced into the first cylinder, with the subsequent two having only one
valve each.) This would be a fully mechanical system that would use purely
collision based pull rods rather than lifter based push rods. That´s the
advantage of having a system that is 100 percent positive pressure with no
vacuum / intake cycle needed. No fuel is burned in cylinder. This is vastly
superior to the old fashioned steam engine and can be done because
materials are so much better now.

I am sure RENSE will find a way to rip this in front of the idiots. Rense is an
enemy of truth now (having ripped the bacteriophage report with no
science whatsoever to back up the rip, while the bacteriophage nanobot
report itself is 100 percent scientifically verifibly true. I am by no means a
layman and at least consulted a doctorate of pharmacology for that report
who provided 100 percent of the data so it is not bullshit. ANYWAY, I am
sure Rense will back stab this engine design in one way or another, and
talk about tiny microchips and flight 370 when mechanical issues are the
real trouble with micro drones, not the chips.

ANYWAY, to circumvent the Rense shillage ahead of time, HERE IS THE
STEAM TABLE, just look at it and THINK, I don´t ask people to just trust
me but I do at least hope they will google some of the technical items I
present and then realize what I am saying is always verifiably accurate
whether or not I make it easy for people to verify what I am saying by
linking out. Sometimes I do not link out just because I don´t want my
readers to be pampered idiots, and I´d like them to think for themselves
and learn how to get data for themselves. Even if Google is a DATA
PERVERT (heads up, this is good) it still serves as a tool useful enough
to get the basics.

Here are some additional pointers and a much
better explanation I am adding because of all the
problems I encountered posting this to begin
with
Since the initial cylinder is going to be pre heated to 700 farenheit anyway,
your main combustion chamber (where the steam is heated to begin with)
should surround this cylinder to reduce heat loss in the system - kill two
birds with one stone there. It should be possible to exceed 90 percent
thermal efficiency. Use the exhaust output to pre heat the water on it's way
out the exhaust pipe to reduce exhaust temperatures and capture more
heat energy.

I suggest the combustion area around cylinder 1 be designed in a way
similar to that of a basic calorimeter, which is designed to measure the heat
energy of a combustion process, even rudimentary calorimeters capture 97
percent or more of total heat generated. This would involve having your
steam which is to be injected into cylinder 1 totally surrounding the cylinder
chamber before getting injected in. There would be the far outer layer,
where your fuel is burned (in the form of a gas), the next layer would hold
your heated water in the form of saturated steam, and the most inner layer
being your 50CC cylinder and piston. The head above that piston would
need to be machined with a port between the steam chamber and the
piston chamber that your injector controlled, and that port would be the size
of a pin hole where it entered the cylinder. This difficult part would only
need to be done for cylinder 1, the other two will follow what cylinder 1
does with no injectors or outer combustion shell needed. Fiberglass
insulation would do the preheating job well enough for cylinders 2 and 3. If
you get this right, it will be virtually impossible to have it produce low
efficiency results. Three cylinders are suggested here, to maximize
efficiency.

BE CAREFUL IF YOU DON'T KNOW ADVANCED MATH
This will output a LOT MORE POWER THAN YOU EXPECT.

If 3000 psi saturated steam is released into a cylinder that has a piston with
a top surface of only one square inch, and this piston is hooked up to a
crank shaft that allows four inches of piston travel, your output will average
approximately three hundred pound feet of torque with peak thrusting
pressures hitting 3,000 pounds. The entire down stroke will generate thrust
and be repeated with every revolution, there is no intake cycle.
Furthermore, the torque won't back off towards the bottom of the piston
excursion because saturated steam will maintain pressure, especially in a
preheated cylinder. If you don't know how huge that possible torque output
is when put in relation to a 4 cubic inch engine, (the approximate volume of
cylinder 1) don't play with this.

With the extremely small cylinders able to hit higher RPM's hundreds of
horsepower can be expected from a total displacement of 50 plus 100 plus
200 CC's, the sizes of the cylinders needed to maximize efficiency while
still being small enough for back yard joe to do cheaply as an experiment
with a harbor freight lathe and milling machine. You cannot take a moped
engine and "modify" it to provide proof of concept at realistic output levels,
you will just blow it up. And since diesel engines have a large piston
surface area, you can't modify one of those either because there are none
that can handle 10,000 or more pound feet of torque (higher output due to
the larger piston surface area and longer throw).

The distance between the cylinders should be minimized, because with
cylinder 1 feeding cylinder 2, and cylinder 2 feeding cylinder 3, all open
space between them represents a pressure drop and efficiency loss. The
ports should be small in diameter and short to alleviate pressure loss. The
valve will be small, oblong and up against the cylinder wall as close as
possible to minimize the distance to the neighboring cylinder, which is
driven directly by it's output.

This will have to all be tried by someone with a machine shop that can
make parts that are all pre calculated to handle 3,000 PSI. But that
someone is out there, and if that someone pulls this off successfully it will
probably produce awesome results. I strongly recommend not trying
anything above 4 cubic inches (in cylinder 1) at first and make good and
sure you have a super heavy load attached before firing it all up. A correct
design would look really odd when compared to a normal engine. It would
have super tiny pistons hooked up to robust piston rods and a beefy crank.

Remember that the temperatures quoted are farenheit, not celsius, which
makes this a LOT easier to deal with than one might think. Most materials
do not fall off in strength with any significance at all at 700 farenheit, which
is in fact a very low temperature. And for starters, "high temperature"
lubricants can be as simple as synthetic oil to get you going early on.

It is up to the reader to make sense of this concept, I am not stopping to do
drawings, the right individual will just figure it out. Obviously the bottom end
of the engine can be run at a low temperature, only the cylinders need to
be hot.

Piston valve collision is irrelevant in this design, because the valve is not
going to be held open by a rocker arm as the piston approaches it, it simply
gets pulled open by the connecting rod when the back of the piston bumps
it near the bottom of travel, and gets slammed shut by the top of the piston
when the piston reaches the top of it's travel. This can be done with piston
travel alone because there will be only one valve per cylinder, you won't
need the back side activation afforded via a cam shaft for the second valve
which is needed in an engine that has an intake cycle.

Obviously this will have to all be machined with care, with expansion of
metals all worked into the math. I suggest putting a spring loaded area into
the top of the piston itself, to provide a cushion zone when it hits the valve.
If you want max efficiency, the cam shaft and valve train have to be gone.
They waste power in a conventional engine. But with a single valve per
cylinder design in this case, having the piston itself actuate rod movement
by bumping into the rod at the very end of the down stroke to open the
valve, and then having the piston itself slam the valve shut at the top of the
stroke will work.

The steam injector can simply be actuated by the piston at the top of its
travel as well, there is no need for any sort of complex timing adjustment
with this type of system. And remember, in the three cylinder design
spoken of above, only the first cylinder needs an injector, the other two
pistons get their steam from the preceeding piston. Also, if I was not clear
enough earlier, the injector would be direct cylinder injection of saturated
steam at 3,000 psi AND the system needs no radiator to cool it, only a
thermocouple based temperature controller on cylinder 1 to reduce fuel
burn if it gets over 710 degrees farenheit.

There will be erosion of materials because saturated steam at 3000 psi
likes to eat metals. In your final engine, have everything ceramic coated to
give the engine a good life span.

UPDATE: Cylinder 2 should be balanced to match the output of
cylinders 1 and 3. Because with this design, cylinders one and three
will produce output simultaneously, and if cylinder 2 is not sized to
match their output, the engine will lope. That would not be a death
sentence, but it would be nice to have a 30 year advanced design on
day one. Everyone wants things to be perfectly smooth. Either
balance cylinder 2, or go to four cylinders (dont), or cut it to two
(don't) because three steps really are what is needed for max
efficiency. It's just the way things are and I don't want to get into
explaining why, this is already a long read for most people. This
would mean that cylinder 2 should actually be right around 150 CC's
and cylinder 3 still at 200 CC's but operating at a lower temperature
and pressure(280 farenheit or so)

I don't give a rats behind about letting this out into the wild, if someone
does this and makes his million and that subsequently makes it possible for
Zimbabwe to kick a banker's @ with an ultra long range prop plane that can
now fly around the globe with a small amount of fuel, that would be good
enough payoff for me. And no one can patent this concept now, this
publishing of the concept for general public consumption is copyrighted the
second I type it (Don't let that stop you from re-posting this) I only said that
so this can't be legitimately mothballed. Very few people will release info
this way because most only see dollar signs. I say screw that, this has
been hidden for too long and the world really does need a way to shut
down the elite without having a multi billion dollar budget. A cheap
Harbor Freight lathe and matching Harbor Freight milling machine will
do this. (God would I love to have those)

In closing

DO NOT use lower temperatures or higher temperatures, USE EXACTLY
THE TEMPERATURES I STATE HERE. Even running 100 degrees less
will cut efficiency by over half, and running hotter will provide absolutely no
benefit whatsoever. Look at the steam table, that really is what you are
dealing with. AND, when I say don't use a diesel that has been converted, I
mean don't use the cylinders. The bottom crank end would be GREAT. And
remember, you HAVE TO pre heat the cylinders to the temperatures I state
above, or it won't work. It may take a little initial energy to get it all heated
up, but once heated it will take little to nothing to maintain temperature.

There is no radiator in this design, only a final condensor for collection and
re-circulation of your (obviously purified, distilled water you don't want to
just blow out into the air.) Use a condensor to collect it and feed it back into
the system. Obviously for this part you will need something similar to a
rudimentary pressure washer than can push it back into the system at 3000
psi. And don't let the shills attack that one, 3000 psi water and 3000 psi
saturated steam do not have anywhere near the same energy potential,
you won't use more than a percent or two of your final output to force the
water back into the system.

I am DEAD POSITIVE that we have had our ultra high fuel economy
technology stolen from us to protect the world's top criminals from
getting righteous payback from very small groups and nations. IF fuel
economy was increased by 10x, which the Volkswagen XL1 proves is
possible, it would change the world because little people would then
be able to get even after being totally screwed by the "elite". There
would no longer be ANY NEED AT ALL for an aircraft carrier or
expensive military industrial complex. AND IF YOU PLAY WITH THIS,
KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT. DON'T GO TO THE PATENT OFFICE WITH
YOUR CREATION. TWO TYPES OF PEOPLE CAN KEEP A SECRET.
THOSE WHO HAVE A BRAIN, AND THOSE WHO ARE DEAD. (I have
intelligently chosen risking the latter)

AND DO NOT FORGET: YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO USE A TYPE K
THERMOCOUPLE AND CONTROLLER TO REGULATE THE
TEMPERATURE OF CYLINDER 1 OR THERE WILL BE PROBLEMS.
THIS IS CHEAP TO DO, SO DO IT. DO NOT TRY THIS MANUALLY OR
MAKE GUESSES. SET IT TO 710 FARENHEIT.

And dear rense, I typed this up without googling a damn thing. GO SHILL
IT NOW, I HAVE TO BE WRONG, RIGHT?

April 28 2014
http://www.jimstonefreelance.com/
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Digital PID F/C SSR Thermostat Temperature Controller PT100
Thermocouple Sensor

 Temperature
                      TA7-SNR
 controller:


 Solid state relay:   SSR-25DA


 Display:             Dual display for Fahrenheit(F) and Celsius(C)


 Range:               -1999 to 9999 (depends on the thermocouple)


 Element:             Pt100(Platinumi)


 Powered by           90-265V AC/DC
    Product Description

    Product Introduction:

    This is a set of temperature controller TA7-SNR,PT100 and solid state relay-SSR-25DA. The dual line display
    universal digital programmable temperature controller supports many types of thermocouple sensor. It can also
    worked as simple digital adjustor.

    Feature:

   Compact design, great form-factor to be included/build-in to your product.
   One key operation, Auto-tuning PID control.Easy operation,Reliable performance
   Input: TC(K、J、S、E)/ RTD(Pt100、CU50)universal input, (24V/30mA supply available for standard
    transmitter)
   P, I, d, controlling period, digital filter coefficient, and more… (for control theory experts only)
   SSR control ready to connect external Solid State Relay to handle High current.

    Specification:

   TDisplay: Dual display for Fahrenheit(F) and Celsius(C)
   Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal)
   Input: Thermo Resistor: PT100, Cu50
   Thermocouple: J,S,K,E,
   Main output: SSR, open circuit: 4V, Closed Circuit: 24V 40mA DC
   Auto-tuning PID cooling/heating control( can choose normal alarm output by software)
   Alarm Output: 1 RELAY: capacity 250V/3A AC, 30V/3A DC
   7 different Dual Output modes with: high / low / high deviation / low deviation/ interval / out of interval /breakage
    alarm
   Accuracy: 0.2%
   Width switch power: 90-260V AC/DC
   Dimension: (72WX72HX72Lmm)

    Accessory 1: Solid State Relay:

   Model no.: SSR 25DA
   Load Voltage: AC 24-380V
   Load Current: 25A
   Input Voltage: DC 3-32V

    PT100:

   Measure range: -20~420℃
   Element:Pt100(Platinumi)
   Material: stainless steel 304
   length: 6 feet(2m)

    Package Content:

   1x temperature controller, model no.: TA7-SNR
   1x solid state relay,model no.: SSR-25DA
   1x PT100


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-PID-F-C-SSR-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-PT100-
    Thermocouple-Sensor-/280879156946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4165b3ced2
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8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe
Central-Machinery - item#44859
                                                                  Read 19 Reviews
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  Turn and form metal components with this powerful benchtop lathe




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7" x 12" Precision Mini Lathe
  Only:$699.99

  Sale:$549.99

  Product Overview

          Description



          This benchtop lathe is capable of efficiently machining metal and nonmetallic stock from
          your work table. The versatile lathe is capable of creating both SAE and metric threads for
          added convenience. Heavy duty cast iron bedways are stress-released to ensure shape,
          integrity and rigidity. The lathe includes a 4", 3-jaw chuck with 3 reversible jaws, two dead
          centers-MT2 and MT3, two drive belts and wrenches.

                 Open-end wrenches and hex wrenches
                 Round nut wrench
                 Tool post wrench
                 Splash guard not included
                 Two drive belts
                 Overweight Item subject to $89.95 additional Freight Charge
                 An additional lift-gate charge may apply.

          Item made to order. Average time to ship is 4 weeks with a maximum of 16 weeks. Customer will be contacted
          regarding delivery.


          Specifications
          Name                    8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe


          SKU                     44859


          Brand                   Central Machinery


          Color                   Red
        Horsepower (hp)              3/4


        Maximum speed (rpm) 2000


        Minimum Speed (RPM) 125


        Number of speeds             6


        Spindle Taper                MT3


        Shipping Weight              256.00 lb.


        Warranty                     90 Day

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/stationary-milling-drilling/8-inch-x-12-inch-precision-
benchtop-lathe-44859.html



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                                                      4/18/2014

       (0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)




       5.0

       Had lathe since 2006
       By DBN

       from North, NJ

       About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

       PROS


      Easy To Use


       CONS
       BEST USES


      All Around
   Frequent Use
   Heavy Duty

    Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

    It's a great overall lathe - I got it when the price made sense.

    MTR caps tend to fail - I switched to a VFD but be aware original mtr is metric mount and not quite std even for
    metric.

    Carriage handles a tad off- added bushings - heck, I have a lathe, it's easy.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    Was this review helpful? Yes / No

    - You may also flag this review


    Comment on this review
                                                            1/3/2013

    (3 of 5 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    5 years and going strong.
    By Jagger

    from Central Wisconsin

    About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

    PROS


   Powerful


    CONS


   Heavy


    BEST USES


   Frequent Use

    Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

    I've had and used the lathe for about 5 years now. I compared lathes online and gave serious consideration to the
    7x. The problem is the harbor freight did not have this 8x in the showroom.
    I bit the bullet and ordered it sight unseen. Though the physical dimensions make the two lathe seem similar, the
    8x easily four times as capable of a machine. I am extremely happy with the choice to go with the 8x.
    The biggest problem I've had with the machine is a clunking sound it developed. Thought I might need to replace
    the bearings. Turns out I just needed to tighten the belt pulley nut.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    Was this review helpful? Yes / No

    - You may also flag this review


    Comment on this review
                                                          11/2/2011

    (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    I love it!
    By Chris

    from Georgia

    About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

    PROS


   Inexpensive
   Precise
   Work out of the box


    CONS
    BEST USES
    Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

    Great lathe. Certainly the best bang for your buck for a mini lathe. Used to be really cheap, now the price is
    increasing. People are starting to realize what a great deal it is.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    Was this review helpful? Yes / No

    - You may also flag this review


    Comment on this review
                                                          7/18/2011

    (10 of 10 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    8x12 lathe
    By Alf

    from Lake Charles, LA
    About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

    PROS


   Powerful


    CONS


   None


    BEST USES


   Lathing and milling

    Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

    I researched mini lathes thoroughly before buying an 8x12. Best minilathe on the market. I paid [$] [...] Ready to
    use out of the box with no problems. I prefer the belt drive to circuit board variable speed.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    Was this review helpful? Yes / No

    - You may also flag this review


    Comment on this review
                                                         12/8/2010

    (11 of 11 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    Great Machine!!
    By Dan C.

    from Undisclosed

    Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

    While this is not any different than the 8x14" lathes from other vendors that I can tell, it is certainly a super
    value. The 8x12" from HF actually is an 8x14" from my measurements. It is MUCH heavier and larger than the
    7x10 lathes, and has more power. It is quite simply a much better machine than the 7" lathes. I also noticed that
    the play and tolerances are way better than the 7x or 9x lathes, doesn't require 10 hours of fiddling and adjusting
    to take the backlash and slop out of the components and slides, it was set up well out of the box. The extra weight
    (around 200-250 lbs) of this thing certainly makes for a stronger, stiffer machine than the 7x and 9x lathes. I am
    quite pleased so far as I have had it about 3 yrs now. It is not a South Bend or Atlas by any means, but for the
    money it was certainly a bargain. I would like to see HF handle more accessories for this great product!!

    Was this review helpful? Yes / No

    - You may also flag this review


    Comment on this review
                                                     9/28/2010

(5 of 6 customers found this review helpful)




5.0

Good Lathe
By Josh

from Undisclosed

Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

My only complant after 5 yrs of owning one is the lack of QCGB but its easy enough to change the gears just
takes time you dont always have.--That and I can only fine accessorys online

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- You may also flag this review


Comment on this review
                                                     9/19/2010

(5 of 6 customers found this review helpful)




5.0

Good candidate for CNC conversion
By Kevin

from Undisclosed

Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

I have been doing a slow conversion of this lathe over the past year. I'm converting the mini-mill too (HF44991)
and have used this lathe to machine the ball-screws needed for CNC.


Gear changes for threading are a bit confusing and time consuming at first, but get simpler with practice. Since
all the gearing will not be required for CNC, I don't see the need for a quick change gear box anyway.


I replaced the motor with a 3-phase 3/4HP motor and VFD to achieve variable speeds.


All in all a fairly sturdy chuck of pot-metal!

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                                                     9/4/2010

(10 of 10 customers found this review helpful)
5.0

Great lathe
By Joe

from Undisclosed

Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

I bought mine about 3 years ago. It worked out of the box. With skill I can hold 0.0005"


Replaced some of the EZ-strip screws with some new ones, but that's about all the repairs it needed.

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                                                     7/13/2010

(2 of 3 customers found this review helpful)




5.0

Excellent product
By Al Fiallos

from Undisclosed

Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

Worked right out of the box. A little cleanup and making solid cuts. I bought this lathe based on the excellent
reviews it got on the internet. Comes with everything you need but cutting tools and those were in stock at my
local HF store. Cant say enough good about it.

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Comment on this review
                                                     6/17/2011

(9 of 10 customers found this review helpful)




5.0

great lathe
By jb

from ann arbor, michigan

About Me Professional

PROS
CONS
BEST USES
Comments about Central-Machinery 8" x 12" Precision Benchtop Lathe:

this comes ready to cut out of the box. Its solid and a pleasure to use. I use it as a toolroom lathe to support a
30k$ cnc gang tool lathe. I make parts for the big lathe like mounting feet and bar feeder parts. The three jaw
chuck that comes with the lathe is adequate for nearly everything. A 3 jaw is centered to .003. That may not
sound very good, but after you turn the piece, that goes away.

the drawbacks of the machine include lack of a motor speed control. Also, I was able to stall out the spindle by
drilling too hard. These are not problems though. I have owned larger and smaller lathes, and this is a good size.

BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine
  Central-Machinery - item#33686




                                                                  Read 11 Reviews
                                                                    Write a Review
  Heavy-duty milling/drilling machine is built for maximum precision and includes accessories




  Only: $1,499.99

  Sale: $1,199.99
  Qty:

    1


  This item may be available at your local Harbor Freight Tools Store


  Add to Wishlist View Shipping Rates




                                                        ACCESSORIES YOU NEED




1/2" MT22 Mini-Lathe Drill Chuck
  Only:$14.99




Titanium Nitride M2 High Speed Steel Drill Bit Set,, Piece
  Only:$59.99

  Sale:$54.99




Vertical Milling Machine
  Only:$1,999.99

  Sale:$1,899.99

  Product Overview

          Description



          This universal, 1-1/2 HP milling/drilling machine is constructed from cast iron and steel to
          ensure maximum milling and drilling precision. Accessories include an adjustable carbide-
          tipped face mill and a 1/2" precision drill chuck with key and arbor. Milling and drilling
          machine is easy to operate, with the down feed including both rapid and fine controls and a
          front-mounted depth gauge. Large micrometer dials on table control wheels. Head swivels
          360 degrees. Worm-feed gear. Heavy-duty gib.

                  16mm dovetail groove
                  Drill capacity: 1-1/4"
                  Face mill capacity: 3", End mill capacity: 3/4"
                  Swing: 15-7/8"
                  Spindle stroke: 5", Spindle taper: R8
                  12 spindle speeds, between 120–2500 RPM
                  Longitudinal table travel: 19-3/4"
                  Cross table travel: 7-3/8"
                  Overweight Item subject to $89.95 additional Freight Charge
                  An additional lift-gate charge may apply.

          Item made to order. Average time to ship is 5 weeks with a maximum of 17 weeks. Customer will be contacted
          regarding delivery.


          Specifications
          Name                    1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine
       SKU                           33686


       Brand                         Central Machinery


       Capacity                      15-7/8 in.


       Color                         Green


       Horsepower (hp)               1-1/2


       Maximum speed (rpm) 2500


       Minimum Speed (RPM) 120


       Number of speeds              12


       Spindle Taper                 R8


       Chuck size (in.)              1/2 in.


       Shipping Weight               749.36 lb.


       Table dimensions              8-1/4 in. L X 28-3/4 in. W


       Warranty                      90 Day

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/stationary-milling-drilling/1-1-2-half-horsepower-heavy-
duty-milling-drilling-machine-33686.html



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                                                                  4/6/2012

       (9 of 13 customers found this review helpful)
    5.0

    25 years and still going strong
    By Paul the Engineer

    from San Diego, CA

    About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

    PROS


   132
   Easy To Use
   Versatile for large parts


    CONS


   A little noisy


    BEST USES
    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    Mine is a 2 hp version that I have had for 25 years. Recently I built some simple stepper motor drive assemblies
    that quickly attach to X, Y and Z giving it CNC capabilities with backlash compensation. Besides milling, I use it
    for engraving, as a lathe, as an optical comparator (with digital microscope and z axis for focus), making gears,
    slitting, making circuit boards by cutting away copper and for painting pin stripes. Use HF diamond grinders to
    make cutters from high speed steel and carbide. Use bench grinder wheel in spindle to make unbelievably good
    looking finish. R8 tooling is cheaply available. Never had shortage of power even when it was wired for 220 and
    I ran 110 (it is extra quiet this way). 6" vise is perfect if it hangs off front of table. Couldn't live without it.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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    Comment on this review
                                                          4/4/2012

    (8 of 8 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    Very Good Value
    By KB5RXZ

    from Ville Platte, LA

    About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

    PROS
   Easy To Use
   No Bit Slippage
   Powerful
   Versatile and inexpensive


    CONS


   Wish it had a lube system


    BEST USES


   All Around
   Frequent Use
   Heavy Duty

    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    Great for home, farm, and light industrial applications. Accurate, tight axes. Comparable to major brand manual
    machines at a better price. Took devivery 3 days before hurricane Lilly, her weight saved my roll-up shop door!
    If she had a lube system, I would upgrade to full industrial use. I repair machines for a living.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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    Comment on this review
                                                       11/26/2011

    (7 of 7 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    woul certainly buy again
    By m&nmontana

    from montana

    About Me Professional

    PROS


   Easy To Use
   Has performed well
   Powerful


    CONS
    BEST USES
   All Around

    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    had an identical machine with 1 hp motor 20 yrs ago,worked great sold it when moving, this one is even better
    with 1 1/2 hp, used it for several years now, only complaint is not enough spindle speed for small and carbide
    drills and end mills. gibs are adjustable, which makes for fine presesion.
    I run custom small part machine shop, use this more than larger mill,for small parts

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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    Comment on this review
                                                           11/2/2011

    (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    LOVE this little mill!
    By Johnny Dill

    from Waterford Michigan

    About Me Professional

    PROS


   Compact
   Easy To Use
   Powerful


    CONS
    BEST USES
    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    I put 3 axis DRO, a Jacobs chuck and a quality vise on this little guy and use it all the time. It has paid for itself
    many times over. -Great value here. Someday I will get a larger machine, but this thing rules where space and
    budgets prohibits anything else. :-)

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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    Comment on this review
                                                           8/18/2011

    (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
5.0

LOVE this little mill!
By [*]

from Wateford MI

About Me Professional

PROS
CONS
BEST USES
Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

Once I added a DRO setup, this mill is extremely useful and productive. With 20% off the price, nothing could
touch this mill's capability for the price.

BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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Comment on this review
                                                    11/23/2010

(8 of 11 customers found this review helpful)




5.0

Great
By Mitch Caldwell

from Undisclosed

Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

I have this same machine sold under a diffrent and much much more expensive name. I have added the HF extras
at half the cost of the brand and they are exactly the samw thing to wish I would have known. I just got the mini-
mill its the same as one priced 300 more and I love it it goes well with the large mill.

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Comment on this review
                                                     2/17/2011

(7 of 8 customers found this review helpful)




5.0

a lot for the money
By jay quintero
    from Undisclosed

    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    Great value.I had mine for a number of years and no regrets.

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    Comment on this review
                                                         8/15/2010

    (10 of 10 customers found this review helpful)




    5.0

    No Complaints
    By Mike the bulder

    from Undisclosed

    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    I use this mill all the time and is one of the most valuable pieces of equipment we have in the shop. It was
    extremely easy for us to rig to CNC. It was rigid enough for us since we only use it with 1/2" end mills and the
    occasional 5" fly cutter on aluminum. I have no complaints. A faster speed would be really nice for the smaller
    end mills though.

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    Comment on this review
                                                         9/23/2013

    (2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)




    4.0

    Great Milling Machine
    By David

    from Terre Haute, Indiana

    About Me Avid Do-It-Yourselfer

    PROS


   Easy To Use
   Ergonomic Design
   Powerful


    CONS
    BEST USES
   All Around
   Frequent Use
   Heavy Duty

    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    I bought this milling machine to use to drill bowling balls in my pro shop of course i had to purchase a ball jig
    from my bowling supplier but this machine did a great job beats paying $3000.00 for one from my bowling
    supplier.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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    Comment on this review
                                                          7/23/2011

    (0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)




    4.0

    Useful, economic machine.
    By C tom

    from Cotonwood, Az

    About Me Professional

    PROS


   Compact
   Easy To Use


    CONS
    BEST USES


   All Around
   Frequent Use
   Ideal for small shop

    Comments about Central-Machinery 1-1/2 Horsepower Heavy Duty Milling/Drilling Machine:

    Very useful machine for small shop or sidework not in need of bigger or high prescision machine.
    In process of locating parts (bearings) from HF to replace/rebuild head as is very noisey.
    All else said, would purchase again.

    BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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       Comment on this review




Snopes.com is a poorly researched
disinfo front
Snopes is claiming the XL1 300 mpg story, and that it won't be allowed
into America is not real.

DEAR SNOPES: YOU OBVIOUSLY PRAY ON STUPIDITY, READ IT AND WEEP:

There is also an update about how water injection can increase fuel
economy below this article now just to stick it to them that much more.

                                              I suggest people first CLICK THIS LINK for a
                                              nice rebut to how Snopes is dreaming with their
                                              latest stab at this web site, which claimed "the
                                              cases I make are ridiculous".

                                              And Uh oh, Daily Tech Also confirms this
                                              with something even better - LATEST TESTS
                                              CONFIRM 314 MPG! OMG SNOPES, HOW
                                              DID YOU MISS THAT?

                                              And Snopes, Here is another nightmare for
                                              your credibility: REVOLUTION GREEN
                                              REPORTED THIS TOO!

                                            Now, my web site is not here to cater to liars
                                            like Snopes, who sit there backstabbing
legitimate reporters while they do their best to convince idiots that the "status quo"
should be that anyone who says anything against the "status quo" is some sort of
conspiracy nutjob, THANKS FOR THE LAUGH.

The following blows Snope's core argument away:

To address Snope's lie that there is no conspiracy to keep these cars out of America, the XL1 is
a Non conforming vehicle, which cannot be brought to compliance for completely arbitrary
reasons, and if it is brought by someone to America for over a month and discovered by the
FED, it will be crushed because it cannot ever meet arbitrary "compliance rules" which mandate
certain emissions parts be present that would wreck it's efficiency. DEAR SNOPES: Please
reference that particular federal document I linked here, which clearly states it will be destroyed
for non compliance in your rip on this web site and answer the big question: WHY IS AMERICA
SO MUCH BETTER THAN EUROPE THAT IT CANNOT HAVE THIS CAR WITHOUT
QUESTION? DOES IT SMOKE TOO MUCH WHEN DELIVERING 300 MPG? HOW COULD IT
SMOKE AT ALL WITH EFFICIENCY THAT HIGH? WHAT COMPLIANCE STANDARD IN
AMERICA MAKES EUROPEANS SUCH SLOBS?

To address your $150,000 dollar claims, Yep, they are true with a but, and it is a BIG
BUT: Volkswagen is eating that cost and selling them a lot cheaper than production cost
just to prove they work, and even at $150,000, they would STILL fly out the door. And
the production cost is only that high because this car has no automated assembly line
set up for it, they are all hand made and I would beg to question why. If AL GORE was
legitimate in his concern for the earth, he would see this 300 mpg carbon snuffer
as a planetary dream come true and PAY volkswagen to set up a real assembly
line. I would like to know why Volkswagen has not done that? threats? Can't do it
in THIS DAY AND AGE? Certainly they can't say "no one would buy it". And if that
real assembly line was set up, and the cars were not all hand made, they would be
DIRT CHEAP.

But as you know dear Snopes, with all your credibility on the line, the real reason they
won't set up production for something that obviously works perfect and COULD SAVE
THE PLANET is because Global Warming is a hoax, Peak Oil is a hoax, the energy
shortage is a hoax, and if it was NOT all a hoax these cars would be heavily
subsidized and we would be forced to drive them.

But THE BIG HOAX is too valuable to let go of, the real goal is control of the
population and to guilt trip people into believing now they have to live as little
slave peons because they "destroyed the planet". The XL1 HAS TO REMAIN A
MYTH for the lies that will lead to mankind's eventual slavery under agenda 21 to
work, for the carbon tax to fill Al the Gore's pockets, and for the outrageously
high fuel prices to remain reasonably profitable. They can't technically raise fuel
prices any higher, especially for diesel engines because vegetable oil will work in them
and 300 mpg far surpasses the economic threshold for just using cooking oil

Dear snopes, you have been vetted as a WORTHLESS NWO ENSLAVE MANKIND
TRASH RAG, Doing battle with this particular web site will amount to an attempt to hurt
yourself, rebutting what is here will only help me because my readers are not stupid and
people who have never heard of me will find their way here. HOW ABOUT RIPPING
THE FUKUSHIMA REPORT, AND LINKING TO IT? Ready for that much self inflicted
damage? Why not do THAT? WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO SAY FOR YOURSELF?

I know what I have to say: Don't miss the add on piece of this puzzle below this re-
posted article titled "the truth behind the engine that runs on water", which
explains how water injection is the holy grail of fuel efficiency.
DEAR SNOPES: UNTIL THIS CAR IS ALLOWED INTO AMERICA I WILL REMAIN
100 PERCENT CORRECT, LIKE IT OR NOT. AND IF IT DOES FIND ITS WAY HERE,
IT WILL BE DUE TO PRESSURE EXERTED BY THIS WEB SITE AND THOSE WHO
RE-POST WHAT IS HERE. YOU CANNOT BURY A TRUTH THIS OBVIOUS WITH A
FEW DUBIOUS REFERENCES AND INSULTS, WHO DO YOU WORK FOR
ANYWAY? THE AUTHOR OF YOUR LIE WAS NOT LISTED. WHY? WOULD
TELLING LIES THEY WAY YOU DID AMOUNT TO CAREER SUICIDE?

And now the ENCORE:

REALITY: 300 mpg from a normal
production car - the Volkswagen XL1
Jim Stone, April 5 2014

Permalink

                                                                        You won't find the 300 MPG
                                                                        Volkswagen XL1 in an
                                                                        American showroom, in fact
                                                                        it has even been denied a
                                                                        tour of America because it
                                                                        is too efficient for the
                                                                        American public to be made
                                                                        widely aware of, and oil
                                                                        profits are too high in
                                                                        America with the status quo
                                                                        in place. No tour has been
                                                                        allowed for this car because
                                                                        the myth that 50 mpg is
                                                                        virtually impossible to obtain
                                                                        from even a stripped down
                                                                        econobox is too profitable to
let go of, and when it comes to corporate oil profits, ignorance is bliss.

Years ago I had calculated that it should be possible to get a small car to exceed 100
mpg by putting parallel direct to cylinder water injectors side by side with the fuel
injectors, and using the exhaust manifold to preheat the water so it would enter the
cylinders as dry steam, thus providing added expansion (which drives the engine) while
allowing the combustion process to proceed without reducing it's efficiency. But I was
obviously wrong with my calculations, because they were in fact over 2x conservative.
The 100 mpg carburetor was indeed a reality, and the Volkswagen XL1 proves it with
only straightforward nothing special technology we have had since the 1970's.
Though the XL1 can be plugged in to deliver a 40 mile all electric drive, it does not need
to be plugged in EVER to achieve 300 mpg. And it does not cheat in any way to achieve
the rating, it weighs over 1,700 pounds, has normal tires, and delivers a very good
driving experience with a governed top speed of 99 mph. The XL1 could reach a top
speed in excess of 110 mph absent governor and turns in a 0-60 time of 11.5 seconds
which is by no means leisurly for a car designed for efficiency. The XL1 in no way
cheats on performance to hit it's rating. It is simply the car we should have always had,
and have had taken from us in the name of oil profits.

Though the XL1 can hit 300 mpg under ideal driving conditions, it's combined mileage is
usually a little over 200 mpg, and if you do city driving only that will drop to a minimum
of 180 mpg under the worst driving conditions. But I'd be happy with that no doubt.

What does that kind of fuel economy really mean?

If the XL1 was equipped with an 18 gallon fuel tank, and you did all highway driving, you could
fill it up with an oil change and when the next change was due you could change the oil and
keep driving without filling up for and additional 2,400 miles. But it comes with a much smaller
fuel tank, because if it could go that long on a single tank chances are the fuel would foul before
it got used. The tank is only 2.6 gallons to prevent fuel age related problems from happening.
So fill ups are cheap.

Many of the publications which speak about the XL1 did so when it was a concept
car predicted to get right around 250 MPG. But in 2014, after extensive testing of
cars now produced, test drivers report economy above 300 mpg under the correct
driving conditions, which would be close to sea level, a flat straight road with no
stops, and reasonable speeds. To get rid of miles/imperial/U.S. gallon confusion, in
the metric system the XL1 is rated to deliver 100 kilometers per litre. Translated for the
U.S., that means approximately 65 miles per quart.

I rememer how I laughed at the Smart Fortwo, because even a full size 4 door Chevy
Impala significantly beat the "Smart's" fuel economy, and with the Impala you would get
a whole car. The Volkswagen XL1 is clearly the two seater the Smart should have been
if it really was what the name implies, and the XL1 is in contrast, a car I'd be proud to be
seen in.
You will NOT see the Xl1 in America,

Even it's far less efficient 85 mpg non hyrid full size station wagon counterpart - the Jetta TDI
blue motion wagon (Img Carscoops.com), which is made in America is banned from American
roads. And I would like to ask why? What excuse is there for banning highly efficient cars from
American roads?

One excuse is that "they don't meet American crash test standards", but the real truth is
that the Fed simply refused to ever crash test them because of what they are, in Europe
even the XL1 is considered to be a very safe car in crashes, and the Jetta station
wagon is obviously even safer and you CAN buy the non TDI versions of the exact
same car in America. The only thing different is the engine, WHAT GIVES?

The answer is obvious. Simply for the sake of raking in huge profits from $4 a
gallon gas, getting guzzled at 10X the rate it should be, the corporations have via
campaign contributions and other types of pay outs succeeded in getting the FED
to legislate the best cars off the road for irrelevant trumped up reasons. The XL1
will not meet American emission standards NOT because it is not clean enough, it
will not meet them simply because inefficient parts that are mandated by the EPA
are not part of the XL1's power train. We will never see truly clean running and
efficient cars in America, because the FED has mandated that American cars be
intentionally stifled by horribly fuel wasting parts that add to the cost of the vehicle and
do absolutely NO GOOD, how much more efficient and clean can you get than 300
mpg? The exhaust from the Xl1 has to, by simple math and the laws of physics, run at
the theoretical threshold of emissions perfection.

All is not rosy for Europe however
The Xl1 is SO MUCH the car that the oil companies do not want that there will only be 2,000
made. And no production line was set up for them, they are all hand made. And irrelevant
"lightweight" parts are added to the frame, consisting of carbon fiber and other exotic materials
to add to the mystique. But the materials and production limits are a load of BUNK, the car
STILL weighs over 1,700 pounds, if it weighed just 100 pounds more everything exotic
could be removed, because "exotic materials" are not doing much anyway, they are just
marketing.

Cost is not the issue either Even after being hand made with "exotic" materials in an
intentionally limited edition, the Xl1 still only costs $60,000. There is a lot more of a
market for this car than 2,000 units at that price, have no doubt, this car is being held
back on purpose. If it can be hand made for that little, automated assembly lines could
do it for half. And if a 1,700 plus pound Xl1 can get 300 mpg, a 3,400 pound Chevy
Truck should be able to deliver at least 150 MPG, the Xl1 lays the mileage scam
bare, with every hybrid that gets 40 mpg and every truck off the line that gets 20,
Americans are getting the shaft and they do not even realize it.

I was first infatuated and impressed with the 85mpg Vokswagen TDI Blue Motion wagon
and wished I could get one in America (when I was still there), and then the 300 mpg
Xl1 came along, what a rude awakening and slap in the face for the American car
buyer.
The truth behind the engine that runs on
water
Since water has it's two elements - hydrogen and oxygen - at their lowest possible energy state
absent exposure of the oxygen to an alkaline metal, you cannot run an engine on water, and
any chemist will tell you that. But it is possible to increase fuel economy by up to 8x by
getting rid of intentionally stifled intake design while putting water in with the fuel, and
THAT is the big buried secret.

It should be possible to get a carbureted vehicle to show you the effect just by providing
a water mist at the carburetor throat, but the above concept would need direct cylinder
injection of water pre heated to 700 farenheit to be optimized.

The concept is simple - once water hits 700 degrees farenheit, the steam pressure is
3,000 psi. This could easily blow the engine absent precise computer control we can
now accomplish cheaply. The whole "water in a diesel will destroy it" meme has
NOTHING to do with hydrolocking, though shills will say otherwise, it has to do with the
fact that in a diesel the compression cycle causes extreme temperatures and will blow
the engine up from steam pressure if sufficient water is taken in. That is how much
power steam has, but if correctly harnessed and controlled, the steam produced by
water injection could easily drive us far into the future.

Absolutely no material in the world will provide more expansion than water, and
expansion is what drives the engine. If you precisely regulated the water intake at the
correct temperature with computerized control, it would allow you to get rid of the
radiator and run close to 100 percent efficient because all the heat that goes out the
exhaust and radiator would be turned into expansion from water vaporizing inside the
engine, which would provide power rather than go to waste.

The magic number for max steam pressure is an easily acheived 700 degrees farenheit.
Water's expansion curve is not linear, it is exponential with temperature rise and 700
degree water, in liquid form as saturated steam, will provide 3000 PSI of pressure to
drive the engine. That would blow it up if enough water was injected to maintain that
pressure inside the cylinders. This is the holy grail of otto cycle efficiency, and don't fall
for the shillage that speaks about hydrolocking, cylinder fracturing from temperature
variances and piston degradation, BECAUSE:

Hydrolocking would only happen if you incredibly severely over injected to such an
extent I doubt it would be possible with any injector you would find, and temperature
swings that would cause piston and cylinder degradation can be handled by ceramic
coatings and pre heating the water to 700 farenheit with the exhaust manifold prior to
injection. At 700 farenheit, water is saturated steam and will not provide cooling, so
temperature swings and subsequent metal fatigue will be minimized if water is injected
at that temperature. The only problems that would arise would be quenching the flame if
too much water was injected, or over charging the engine with too much steam pressure
from too much (but less than the aforementioned) water injection or overeheating the
engine if you omitted the radiator and then injected 700 farenheit water. 600 farenheit
would be a better target temperature for the water because half of the water's cooling
potential is within that last 100 degrees. Then downsize the radiator and run the engine
a little hotter with specialized coolants now widely in use.

When all the cards are on the table, It is expansion, and ONLY EXPANSION which drives
the engine, the big trick is how to optimize that expansion and increase efficiency.
Computer controlled pre heated water injection into a ceramic coated combustion
chamber is, according to simple chemistry and physics, the obvious #1 way to
accomplish extra expansion and maximize efficiency.
http://www.jimstonefreelance.com/

				
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