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					Hydro gelator for cosmetics
ADEKA NOL GT-700
  Hydro gelator for cosmetics
  ADEKA NOL GT-700
INCI name : PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER




                                                 High-elastic water gel
                                                 Tolerance for salt
             2% aqueous solution                 Good stability


                                                                Cloud
 Purity   Appearance     Melting point   Viscosity of 1%aq
                                                             point(1%aq)
          white-yellow
 >99%                      55-65ºC       1000   5000mPa·s     60-75ºC
              solid


                                     2
INCI name : PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER

                                                                        n


   Hydrophobic group                       Connecting group                   Hydrophilic group
(DECYLTETRADECETH)                              (HDI)                            PEG-240

  R O    CH2 CH2 O        H         OCN   CH2 CH2 CH2 CH2 CH2 CH2 NCO         HO   CH2 CH2 O     H
                     20                                                                        240
 R=C24

                                                                    O
                              NCO   +     HO                    N   C   O
                                                                H
                                                              Urethane bond

                      Each monomer is connected with urethane bond

                                                  3
Viscosity of ADEKA NOL GT-700 aq
                      E+06
                     1.                                                                   1%
                                                                                           5%
                                                                                          1.
                      E+05
                     1.                                                                   2%
                s)
    scosi (m P a・




                      E+04
                     1.

                      E+03
                     1.
        ty




                      E+02
                     1.
   Vi




                      E+01
                     1.
                                               taking gel out            Spreading gel
                                 Storage
                                               of bottle                 on the skin.
                      E+00
                     1.                                                  Spray
                           01
                          0.               1                       100                   10000
                                               S hear rate (s-1)




                                1%                   1.5%                                2%

                                                         4
Method of mixing with water


              G T -7 0 0




                                            cool                            co ol to r.t.




     80℃                       80℃                    U n d er 6 0 ~7 5 ℃
    W ater                    ou    i d
                           C l d y lq u i                 Clear g el

       Appearance          Melting point           Cloud point
    white-yellow solid        55-65ºC               60-75ºC



                                    5
Compare with other gelators
  GT-700 2%aq     Carbomer 1%       Xanthan gum 2%aq
                  TEA      0.6%




      clear            sticky          stringy
    not sticky     no restoration     not clear
   high-elastic                         sticky


                           6
                   Influence of salt
                   GT-700 2%aq                                                             Carbomer 1%, TEA 0.6%
                   Influence of NaCl                                                       Influence of NaCl

                    E+06
                   1.                                   N aC l0%                            E+10
                                                                                           1.                                 N aC l0%




                                                                                      s)
              s)




                                                        N aC l1%                                                              N aC l1%




                                                                             ty(m P a・
 scosi (m P a・




                    E+05
                   1.                                                                       E+08
                                                                                           1.
                                                        N aC l3%                                                              N aC l3%
                    E+04
                   1.                                   N aC l5%                            E+06
                                                                                           1.
                   1.
                    E+03                                N aC l10%
     ty




                                                                         scosi
                                                                                            E+04
                                                                                           1.
                    E+02
                   1.
                                                                                            E+02
                                                                                           1.



                                                                        Vi
Vi




                    E+01
                   1.
                   1.
                    E+00                                                                    E+00
                                                                                           1.
                         01
                        0.          1           100        10000                                0.
                                                                                                 01         1         100       10000

                                   S hear rate (s-1 )                                                                   -1
                                                                                                           S hear rate (s )


                              Salts have no influence                                                 The viscosity decrease
                              on the viscosity                                                        by addition of NaCl


                                                                    7
                   GT-700 2%aq
                              heating                                     15℃
                    E+06
                   1.
                                                                          25℃
                                                                          40℃
 scosi (m P a・s)




                   1.
                    E+04                                                  50℃
                           cooling
     ty




                    E+02
                   1.
Vi




                    E+00
                   1.
                       1.      E-02 1.
                         E-03 1.     E-01 1.
                                           E+00 1.
                                                 E+01 1.     E+03 1.
                                                       E+02 1.     E+04
                                            S hear rate (s-1 )
                   The viscosity changes reversibly by temperature in 15 - 50ºC
*The irreversible separation is shown at 60ºC due to reach to cloud point.


                                                  8
                                                              Conc. of PG
                    E+06
                   1.                                               0%       1%
                                                                    3%       5%
              s)



                    E+05
                   1.
 scosi (m P a・



                                                                    10%      20%
                   1.
                    E+04     keeping the gel                        50%
                    E+03
                   1.
     ty




                    E+02
                   1.                    collapsing of gel
Vi




                    E+01
                   1.
                    E+00
                   1.
                         01
                        0.                 1                  100           10000
                                               S hear rate (s-1 )
                   Viscosity gradually decrease with increase of PG concentration.
                   And water gel collapse at high-concentration of PG.

                   * Same tendency in case of glycerin, 1,3-BD and DPG
                                                     9
     GT-700 2%aq in buffer solution
                                    pH 7.7
                                    pH 1.7
                                    pH 10.0




                immediate                          After 28 days

Storage temp : 40ºC
Viscosity measurement temp : 25ºC




                                              10
 Stability against of acids, alkalis and redox agents




Stable                      Unstable

Water (pH 2-10)             High concentration of acids, alkalis
13% Thioglycolic acid aq    H2O2
10% bromic acid salt aq     Hypochlorous acid salt




                           11
  Influence of surfactant
                    GT-700 2%aq, influence of surfactant
                           E+07
                          1.                                                   0%
                          1.
                           E+06                                                 1%
                                                                               0.
        scosi (m P a・s)




                          1.
                           E+05                                                 3%
                                                                               0.
                          1.
                           E+04                                                 5%
                                                                               0.
            ty




                          1.
                           E+03                                                1%
                          1.
                           E+02                                                2%
       Vi




                           E+01
                          1.
                           E+00
                          1.
                                01
                               0.            1             100        10000
                                             S hear rate (s-1 )
                                                                  Surfactant   SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE
surfactant 0.1 1%                    :gel strength increase                         (Anionic surfactant)

surfactant over 2%                   :gel collapse
     * Same tendency in case of nonionic, cationic and ampholytic surfactants

                                                       12
   Gelation mechanism of GT-700
          ~1%                       1~1.5%               ~1.5%

 Hydrophilic
                 Hydrophobic
 group           group




Micelle




                               Soft gel
 Convection (low viscosity)    (increase of viscosity)   Hard gel

                                          13
GT-700 2%aq             GT-700/surfactant = 2/1          GT-700/surfactant = 1/1
                             surfactant




                           gel strength increase                gel collapse
              Add surfactant                   Add surfactant

                                     14
                            Hydrophilic group      n

                           Hydrophobic group
   GT-700 acts as a surfactant         Emulsion gel can be obtained
   and a gelatinizing agent
 Formulation

     oil*       10%
     GT-700     2%
    water       88%



oil :Liquid paraffin
     Isopropyl miristate
                             The emulation gel is stable in one month.

                                  15
Summary

                     Thixotropic
                     High-elastic
   Spray                                  Emulation gel

           ADEKA NOL GT-700
               Hydro gel
    Salt Tolerance                  Good Stability



              Surfactant inhibition

                           16
Shiseido
     ELIXIR Collagenish Lift EX N
                                         Gel lotion



    MAQuillAGE Climax Moisturegel
                                          Liquid foundation



     MA CHÉRIE Gloss cream bath
                            Hair Cream




                                    17

				
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