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					Restaurants Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Events Maps

                          August - September 2013

                                                    Sunny season map
                                                    The geography of Zurich’s
                                                    outdoor attractions

                                                    Films, music
                                                    and theatre
                                                    All the summer festivals


                                                                                                                         CONTENTS                                  3

                                      Arrival & Transport                                  5
                                      Get your bearings
                                                                                                   Rennweg just off Bahnhofstrasse, an ideal spot for
                                      Basics                                               7       boutique shopping.              

                                      Facts, habits, attitudes

                                      Zurich’s districts                                10           Restaurants                                          29
                                      Know where to go                                               Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

                                      History                                           11           Cafés                                                40
                                      Once upon a time                                               Chocolate, coffee and conversation

                                      Summertime                                        12           Nightlife                                            41
                                      Open-air bars, river baths and hikes                           Bars, pubs and clubs
                                                                                                     Gay Zurich                                           46
                                      Culture & Events                                   17
                                      Concerts, shows and exhibitions                                Zurich Nord                                          47

                                                                                                     Restaurants and bars in the north of the city
                                      Quick picks                                       23
                                      Zurich in a nutshell                                           What to see                                          48
                                                                                                     Churches, parks and museums
                                      Where to stay                                     24
                                      Hotels, hostels, pensions                                      Day trips                                            54
                                                                                                     Mountains, monasteries, museums

                                                                                                     Zurich for kids                                      57
                                                                                                     Major fun for minor citizens

                                                                                                     Shopping                                             59
                                                                                                     Famous jewellers and young Swiss design
                                                                                                     Watches                                              64

                                                                                                     Directory                                            67
                                                                                                     From consulates to language schools

                                                                                                     Maps & Index
                                                                                                     City map                                             68
                                                                                                     Public transport map                                 71
                                                                                                     Street register                                      72
                                    Perhaps one of the nicest places to read your newspaper.
                                                                                  Zurich Tourism
                                                                                                     Index                                                74

                                    Advertisement                                                  Advertisement

                                                                                              August - September 2013
4         FOREWORD                                                                                                                                                                       ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT                                                                           5

    Admittedly – we do like to complain a bit about the                                                                                                                                                        At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets
    weather. But since the last issue of Zurich In Your                 The World of In Your Pocket                                        Arriving by plane                                                   (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public
    Pocket was published, it really has been awful! Mountain                                                                               Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north         transport in Zurich and also change money. For time tables
    passes opened late due to snow, strawberries arrived                                                                                   of the city centre in the municipality of Kloten and handles        and tickets refer to or call +41 900 300 300
                                                                           Northern                             Estonia                    around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations             (1.19Sfr/min).
    with nearly a month’s delay and swimming in the lake                   Ireland
    was only for the really hardy. Happily, that has all changed                                                             Russia        worldwide. You can find ATMs and information desks at
                                                                            Ireland                             Latvia                     Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. Find free
    now – as we are writing this, the lake is dotted with sailing
                                                                                                                                           copies of Zurich In Your Pocket at the switzerlandinfo              Arriving by bus
    boats and the shores are teeming with people sunbathing                                                  Lithuania                     desks at Arrival 1 and 2. There is a big public shopping area       Buses from other European countries arrive at the bus
    and firing up their barbecues.                                                                                                         with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from             station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E-1), two minutes walk
                                                                                                                       Belarus             06:00 - 23:00) and a free Wi-fi for the first 60 minutes, just      north from the main train station. The connections are run
    Summer is of course the festival season, and several of
                                                                         Netherlands                                                       connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’ and open a browser.          by private companies, most connections are to Eastern
    the early open-airs in Switzerland bore the brunt of the                               Poland                                                                                                              and Southern Europe. The bus station itself offers very
    cold and rain (we’ll spare you the muddy details...). But in               Germany                                                     To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and           few facilities but you can buy some tickets here. Zurich
    Zurich most of the festivals are still ahead of us – while           Belgium                                          Ukraine
                                                                                     Czech                                                 from the airport is by train. Take one of the fast trains or        sightseeing buses start here as well.
    summer slowly turns to autumn some of the city’s most                            Republic                                              slower S-trains leaving from the underground train station
    atmospheric cultural events take place. For rock and                                                                                   near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich
    electro, there is the Zurich Openair (p. 19), for theatre                          Austria                                             HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train.        Arriving by car
    and dance productions from around the world the Theater              Switzerland Slovenia                                              Up to ten trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly        The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all
                                                                                                         Romania                           ten minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the        directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich
    Spektakel (p. 19) on the lake is the place to be, and at                                Croatia                                        ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen)        City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is
    the end of September Zurich’s now well established film                      Italy        Bosnia Serbia                                next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for      scarce and very expensive. Car parks and hotels charge
    festival (p. 21) gets going. Lots to look forward to!                                                   Bulgaria                       an adult is 6.60Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city        up to 40Sfr for 24 hours and you can hardly find other
    There’s plenty of alternatives to festivals too. If you’re                           Montenegro                                        (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport,   parking spaces where you can leave your car for more than
                                                                                                                   FYR Macedonia           make it a 24 hour ticket for just twice the price.                  90 minutes. For overnight parking you can try to find a slot
    into sports, go support one of the city’s football teams                                            Albania                                                                                                in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking
    in a Swiss league match (p. 22). Or delight in an opera
                                                                                                                    Greece                                                                                     there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your arrival time
    performance when the season opens at the end of                                                                                                                                                            on your parking disk.
    September. And while the weather holds there are so
    many lovely outdoor spots in town – bars, restaurants,                                                                                                                                                     Driving in Switzerland is generally easy, as roads are
                                                                        It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your
    swimming etc. – consult our summer section (p. 12).                                                                                                                                                        in good condition, sign posting is excellent and drivers
                                                                        Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time                                                                                 usually not too aggressive. If you’re using the motorways
    We just hope the sun will still be shining when you’re              we have grown to become the largest publisher of
    reading this.                                                                                                                                                                                              you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol
                                                                        locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover                                                                                   stations and post offices). Remember that trams always
                                                                        more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi,                                                                                have right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra-
      Cover story                                                       in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the                                                                                    crossings without traffic lights.
                                                                        number of concise, witty, well-written and downright
                          The double towers of Zurich’s                 indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each                                                                                     The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should
                          landmark Grossmünster church is               year is approaching five million. We also publish an                                                                                   allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.
                          the background to our cover, beyond           iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can                                                                                   The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas,
                          the so-called weidlinge, the punting          be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for                                                                                   80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways.
                          boats bobbing on the River Limmat.            ‚IYP Guides’ by name.                                                                                                                  In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often
                          Just next to them there is a pier                To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your                                                                                   30km/h. We strongly advise you to observe the limits
                          which is obviously a lovely spot for          Pocket, like us on Facebook (                                                                                             carefully as there are dozens of fixed and temporary radar
                          a sunbath. Photo: Zurich Tourism,             inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (                                                                                    controls in the city. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has
                          Bruno Macor.                                                                                                                                                                         agreements with many European countries to make sure
                                                                                                                                                                                                               you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate.
                                                                                                                                                                                                               You may use your home driving license in Switzerland
                                                                                                                                           What you’ll see coming from Bahnhofstrasse, when you                as long as it is valid - if the license is a non EU-one
                                                 Editorial                                  Copyright notice                               run to catch that train.                                      AM    and in a language other than French, English, Italian or
                                                Editors Chris Young & Lukas Füglister       Text and photos copyright pocket                                                                                   German it is recommended that it be accompanied by
                                                Research Roman Neumann, Anton Köhl          publishing GmbH. Maps copyright by             A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Taxi stands       an international one.
      E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S      Layout & Design Tomáš Haman                 Kartographie Huber München. All rights         are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Only licensed taxis are
                                                Photos Agata Muszyńska (AM), Juan           reserved. No part of this publication may
      Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                 be reproduced in any form, except brief        allowed to pick up passengers. They are generally safe
                                                Rubiano (,
      pocket publishing GmbH                    Matthias Villiger (MV), Michèle Amacker     extracts for the purpose of review, without    and reliable.
      Wuhrstrasse 15                            (MA), Rolf Müllestein (,     written permission from the publisher and
      8003 Zürich                               Zurich Tourism: Martin Rütschi (MR),        copyright owner. The brand name In Your        Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich
                                                Caroline Minjolle (CM), Bruno Macor (BM),   Pocket is used under license from UAB          main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same
      tel. +41 32 510 85 76                                                                 In Your Pocket (Bernadinų 9-4, LT-01124                   Pierluigi Macor (PM)                                                                       tickets as for the trains are valid. Good option if your hotel
                                                                                            Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
                                                Cover Zurich Tourism, Bruno Macor                                                          is in Zurich Nord.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 NEW                                                                   Editor’s note                      Sales & Circulation
                                                General Manager Lukas Füglister
                                                                                            The editorial content of In Your Pocket
                                                                                            guides is independent from paid-for
                                                                                                                                           Arriving by train
      Member of                                                                             advertising. Sponsored listings are            Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short
      Zürich Tourism               spiritclub   Sales Manager Diego Egloff                  clearly marked as such. We welcome all         for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          SWISS MADE
                                                sehstoff GmbH, +41 56 210 99 11             readers’ comments and suggestions.
      Published 6 times per year                                                                    city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive
      Circulation: 25,000 copies                                                            We have made every effort to ensure            here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the
                                                Ad rates at,            the accuracy of the information at the                                                                                IN TER NET-SHO P
                                                                                            time of going to press and assume no           main hall, where you will find ticket offices and the tourist
      ISSN 1663-9944                            closing date next issue: September 13
      © pocket publishing GmbH 2013                                                         responsibility for changes and errors.         information. Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside                 WWW.PARTIME .CH
                                                                                                                                           the station.

    Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                 August - September 2013
6          ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT                                                                                                                                                                                                                 BASICS                                 7

                                                                       Be aware that the popular lookout Uetliberg and the airport                                                                            best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good
    Public transport                                                   are not within zone 110. If you get caught without a valid         Basic data                                                          Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the
    Trains                                                             ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public transport,      Area                                                                Zurich region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies,
    The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You         get advice at VBZ Ticketerias, situated at larger tram             Switzerland: 41,285km2                                              cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.
    can almost set your watch to the departure times. The              stops throughout the city.                                         Zurich (canton): 1,729km2
    train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting
    around in Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from           Anoth er option is th e Zurich card (24S fr/24hrs,
                                                                                                                                          Zurich (city): 92km2
    Zurich there are connections to all the major Swiss cities         48Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 and between              Switzerland: 7.8million                                             Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are
    once or twice an hour. The state owned train company is            the airport and the city, as well as giving you free entry to      Zurich (city): 390,000                                              round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with
    called SBB. For time tables refer to Tickets           many museums. The Zurich card is available at most ticket                                                                              two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely
                                                                                                                                          Official languages
    are sold on vending machines (switch them to English on the        machines, VBZ Ticketerias and at the Tourist Information.          Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh                       need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries.
    first screen) and at the counters in the main hall at Zurich                                                                          Zurich: German
    main train station - clerks usually speak English. You can         Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.
    purchase single and return tickets. Children up to 5 travel        There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun            Local time                                                          Health & Emergency
    for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the so-called half-fare. If   to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and       Central European (GMT+1h)                                           Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak
    you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare   pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a              Borders                                                             basic English):
    card for one month for 110Sfr - and travel for half the fare       5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message           France (572km), Germany (373km), Austria (165km),
    on all public transport. You cannot buy tickets on the train       from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the         Principality of Liechtenstein (41km), Italy (741km)                 Ambulance: 144
    anymore. If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will     supplement by phone.                                                                                                                   Police: 117
    have to pay a fine of 90Sfr.                                                                                                                                                                              Firebrigade: 118

    Buses and ships                                                    Taxis                                                            Customs                                                               If you need medical attention, there are two medical centres for
    Public buses get you from the nearest train station to most        There are 1350 licenced taxis in Zurich and in general           Switzerland is not member of the European customs union.              emergency consultations, one is Permanence at the main railway
    every village in the country. The time tables are integrated       they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s usually     On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real            station just next to the taxi stand towards Bahnhofstrasse,
    in the database on There are ships on all the          easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the           tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to        where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn (+41 44 215 44
    larger Swiss lakes. For information about ships on Lake            following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr,            Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on        44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00), the other mediX, just
    Zurich, see page 48.                                               3.80Sfr per kilometre, 69Sfr per hour. For years, these          the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland          across the road from the tram stop Stauffacher (+41 44 298 50
                                                                       were the fixed prices all taxis had to charge. But recently      to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and           50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00).
                                                                       the Swiss Federal Court ruled these limits are illegal, so       tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the              Zurich has three public hospitals with emergency units which are
                                                                       taxis are now allowed to charge lower prices. But to be          according customs authorities):                                       open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. You can just walk in,
                                                                       honest, we haven’t found any who do so yet. Not all taxi                                                                               service is good, but expect to wait:
                                                                       drivers speak English. Taxi drivers have to and usually do       Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20)
                                                                       use their metres. Cheating is rare. Luggage does not cost        cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco.       Emergency Unit Universitätsspital G-2,
                                                                       extra. You’ll find taxis at official taxi stands at the main     Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits       Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH / Universitätsspital, tel.
                                                                       railway station, at Central, Bellevue and other places. You      with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.    +41 44 255 11 11. Q Open 24 / 7
                                                                       can hail them from the streets as well.
                                                                                                                                        Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air                Emergency Unit Stadtspital Triemli
                                                                       If in doubt stick with the following big companies:              travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.                        Birmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. +41 44
                                                                       Taxi 7x7, tel. +41 44 777 77 77.                                 Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a              466 11 11. Q Open 24 / 7
                                                                                                                                        EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.
                                                                       Taxi 444, tel. +41 44 444 44 44.                                                                                                       Emergency Unit Stadtspital Waid K-4,
                                                                                                                                        In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. +41 44 366
                                                                                                                                        passengers as well.
                                                                                                                                                                                                              20 55. Q Open 24 / 7
                                                                       Many locals in Zurich get around town by bicycle. For the flat
                                                                       areas around Lake Zurich and the Limmat, the city’s river,
                                                                       a bike is ideal.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Useful Zurich apps
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Well, there is of course one app we
                                                                       Züri rollt - bikes for free E-1, Hauptbahnhof/Velostation                                                                                               recommend very warmly to you: the In
                                                                       Nord & Süd, tel. +41 43 288 34 45,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Your Pocket app features all the content
                                                                       Bikes and skateboards to borrow for free - all you need is
    Inside Zurich’s main train station.                                                                                                                                                                                        of this guide - and much more - and all for
                                                                 MA    identification and 20Sfr as a deposit. The Velostation Süd is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               offline use and free. Apple maps is fully
                                                                       close to the post office Sihlpost at the southern end of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                integrated, an offline map is available as well. Search
    City transport                                                     long underground passage, near tracks 52 - 54. The northern
                                                                                                                                                                                                                the App Store for ’In Your Pocket’, once you have the app,
    Although most distances in Zurich are quite short, public          one is close to track 18. In summer there are four additional
                                                                                                                                                                                                                you can download Zurich. (App Store only)
    transport can be very useful, especially when the weather          stations, see page 15.QOpen 08:00 - 21:30.
    is not so friendly. The network includes trams, buses,                                                                                                                                                      The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time door-to-
    local trains, ships on the lake and on the river. The ticket                                                                                                                                                door timetable information for all public transport within
    system is fairly simple: Zurich’s cantonal network is divided      Car rental                                                                                                                               the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also tells you
                                                                                                                                        Fraumünster and the Münsterbrücke bridge.                               where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to B.
    into zones. So you do not buy tickets for a trip, but rather       All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an                                         
    for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is one zone,         ID and a valid licence - some companies do however also                                                                                  And it’s available in English. If you install the free app of
    zone number 110 (see map page 71). Tickets are valid in            require a minimum age and minimum driving experience.                                                                                    the Swiss Federal Railways SBB Mobile, you can buy
    the chosen zones for a certain time period on all kinds of                                                                          Drinking                                                                tickets as well. (App store and android market)
    transport. For getting around the city (zone 110) a day            Avis C-3, Gartenhofstrasse 17, 8Werd, tel. +41 44                The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and             ZüriPlan is a free app by the city of Zurich, offering a very
    pass valid for 24 hours will cost you 8.40Sfr, a single ticket     296 87 87, www .avis .ch. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30, Sat               18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are            exact map of Zurich with an integrated route planner for
    valid for 1 hour 4.20Sfr. Children up to 5 travel for free,        07:30 - 12:15, 13:15 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.                 the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre           pedestrians and cyclists. The app is in German, but quite
    6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually                                                                        Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers               self-explanatory. On the downside, not all the maps are
    is 2.90Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket          Unirent M-6, Nordstrasse 110, 8Limmatplatz, tel.                 are increasingly getting competition from innovative local              stored on your phone. But the parts of the maps which
    machines you find at almost every stop (most of them now           +41 44 363 61 11, www.unirent .ch. Local business,               brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul or Appenzeller for instance.            have been used are saved for one week. (App Store only)
    take credit cards, switch them to English on the first screen).    cheap prices.                                                    Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the

    Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                   August - September 2013
8           BASICS                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             BASICS                          9

      Language smarts                                                                    Internet / Wi-fi                                                     National holidays                                                                                                                               Market values
                                                                                         In the era of laptops and smartphones internet cafés are
      Here are a few German phrases and some typical Swiss                               not as necessary as they were. What you really need are              January 1                                       New Year                                                                                        Loaf of bread                        2 - 5Sfr   (€1.65 - 4.15)
      German words. The ’r’ in Swiss German is rolled, the ’ch’ is                       hotspots. Many cafés and bars in Zurich have free Wi-fi for          January 2                                       Berchtold Day (local)                                                                           Cup of coffee                        4 - 6Sfr   (€3.30 - 5)
      pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.                            their customers. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi             April 18, 2014                                  Good Friday                                                                                     0.3 litre of beer (bar)              4 - 7Sfr   (€3.30 - 5.80)
      German                                                                             providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city.                    April 21, 2014                                  Easter Monday                                                                                   Public transport ticket, valid 1hr   4.20Sfr    (€3.40)
      Where are the toilets? Wo ist die Toilette? (Vo ist di toi-lette?)                 Another possibility to stay connected with your smartphone           April 28, 2014                                  Sechseläuten (Zurich only)                                                                      Packet of cigarettes                 7Sfr       (€5.80)
      I’ll have a beer.      Ich möchte ein Bier. (Ih mu-hte ein beer)                   during your stay in Switzerland is to buy a prepaid sim card         May 1                                           Labour Day (Zurich only)                                                                        McDonald’s Big Mac                   6.50Sfr    (€5.40)
      I’m from England.      Ich bin aus England. (Ih bin ows england)                   for your phone. Find more information in the box ’Smart
                                                                                                                                                              May 29, 2014                                    Ascension                                                                                       The Swiss national bank aims for an exchange rate of
                                                                                         phoning - prepaid deals’ on this page.
      Swiss German                                                                                                                                            June 9, 2014                                    Whit Monday                                                                                     at least 1.20Sfr/€ (0.83 € per 1Sfr).
      Hello (formal)               Grüezi                    (groo-e-tsi)                                                                                     August 1                                        National holiday
      Goodbye (formal)             Adieu                     (as in French)              Language                                                             September 9, 2013                               Knabenschiessen (Zurich only)
      Thank you                    Merci                     (mersi)                     Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken              December 25                                     Christmas                                                                                     Smoking
      Sorry!                       Entschuldigung!           (ent-shooldi-goong)         by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).                                                                                                                                                          The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings
      Excuse me!                   Exgüsi!                   (ex-gewsi)                  Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where                                                                                                                                                      and transport is illegal. However, in the canton of Zurich,
      Switzerland                  D’Schwyz                  (t’shviiits)
                                                                                         people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or                                                                                                                                                           restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate and
      Cheers!                      Zum Wohl!                 (tsoom vol)
                                                                                         Schwyzerdütsch, which differs from region to region. Be it         Money                                                                                                                                           served smoking room (fumoir).
      Inhabitant of Zurich         Zürcher                   (tsoor-her)
      Zurich                       Züri                      (tsoori)
                                                                                         among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities,       The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc
                                                                                         people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard           (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of
                                                                                         German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking           10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are                                                                                      Tourist information
                                                                                         at school. When Swiss realise you are a foreigner they will        1,2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.                                                                                            Zurich Tourism’s Tourist service is located in the main hall
    Pharmacies                                                                           usually switch to standard German.                                 You can change your money at the SBB change at the main                                                                                         of the main train station.QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:30
    Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24                            A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the younger   railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw some                                                                                      - 18:30.
    hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where the                       generation. So generally getting by in English is no problem.      Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one
    next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 900 55 35 55                                                                                            of the ubiquitous ATM’s. Credit cards are widely accepted -
    (1.50 Sfr/min) which will connect you to the next pharmacy on                                                                                           both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included.                                                                                      Visas
    duty. The pharmacy at main station (Bahnhofplatz 15, +41 44                                                                                             At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service,                                                                                    For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need
    225 42 42) is always open until midnight, the one at Bellevue                                                                                           leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.                                                                                                               a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not
    always 24 / 7 (Theaterstrasse 14, +41 44 266 62 22).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is
                                                                                                                                                            Politics                                                                                                                                        valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with
                                                                                                                                                            The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct                                                                                     a Swiss embassy or consulate.
      Smart phoning - prepaid deals                                                                                                                         democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a
                                                                                                                                                            stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament
      If you want to use your smartphone in Switzerland and are                                                                                             are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and
      staying at least a couple of days, you might consider buying
      a local prepaid card. This way your phone will be able to guide
                                                                                                                                                            the seven-member government appointed by parliament
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Get Zurich
                                                                                                                                                            always includes representatives of all of the four or five
      you through the city without clocking up sky-high roaming                                                                                             major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting
      costs with your phone company back home. As an extra                                                                                                  of 26 cantons, which retain some independence and have

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   In Your Pocket
      plus, the online map of the In Your Pocket mobile website                                                                                             their own constitutions, parliaments and governments.
      ( and the App for the iPhone will work                                                                                        Bern is the capital. Switzerland is not a member of the EU,
      perfectly too - for the app search for ‘In Your Pocket’ in the                                                                                        but does, however, cooperate with the EU in many areas,
      app store, then download Zurich within the app, it’s free. Of
      course a prepaid card is only an option if your phone is not
      sim-locked. You’ll need an ID to get a card, which itself usually
                                                                                                                                                            such as on the Schengen visa and border agreement.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   for your iPhone!
      costs around 20Sfr (sometimes calling credit is included). If
                                                                                         Cobblestone Augustinergasse just off Bahnhofstrasse.        ZIYP
      your phone is locked, pocket connect by Swisscom is an                                                                                                Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even
      alternative. It’s a mobile hotspot which connects up to 5
      devices via Wi-fi. Rent it for 36Sfr for 5 days (plus a deposit),
                                                                                                                                                            for women at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as                                                                                                                   Search the App Store
                                                                                                                                                            in any European city.
      unlimited data included. Get one at the tourist information or                     Mail & Phone                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     for ’In Your Pocket’
      the sbb travel centre, both in the main hall of the main station                   Post
      Here we list some of the prepaid cards, their prices and where
                                                                                         Swiss post is generally reliable, and usually it’s not a problem
                                                                                         to find a clerk who speaks some English. Swiss post also can
                                                                                                                                                              Climate                                                                                                                                                                     » find the venues
      to get them. Some companies offer cheap data, others cheap                         take care of all your financial transactions. There are post                               200                                                   18                                                                                                nearest to you
      calls abroad. Choose what suits you better (rates are in Sfr                       offices all over the city - the Sihlpost close to the main train                           180                                                   16
      per minute, as of July 2013).                                                      station is the one with the longest opening hours (see below).                                                                                                                                                                                   » browse through the

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   source: Meteo Swiss,
                                                                                                                                                                                    160                                                   14

      company            domestic      calls        data                where to buy                                                                                                140                                                   12
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            entire content offline
                         calls         abroad*                                           Dialling

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               temperature (° C)
      OK.- mobile        0.22          0.29/0.32       
                                                    7Sfr/300MB**    k kiosks
                                                                                         Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or                               120                                                   10
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          » fully integrated
                                                                                         (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers.
                                                                                                                                                                    rainfall (mm)

      Yallo              0.35                                              
                                       0.03         6Sfr/150MB**    migros shops /                                                                                                  100                                                   8
                                                                        post offices     Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Apple maps
                                                                                                                                                                                     80                                                   6
      m-budget mobile 0.28        0.28        4.80/150 MB** migros                       abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the +41
      Lebara simply       0.25         0.19        4.90/120MB** migros, coop,                                                                                                        60                                                   4
                                                                        post offices     prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
                                                                                                                                                                                     40                                                   2
      sunrise free        0.30. max 0.6             1Sfr per day        sunrise shops 
                          0.9 per call                                                   Sihlpost D-2, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel.                                           20                                                   0
      *to most European countries incl. UK and USA, landlines                            +41 848 888 888. Zurich’s central post office, open until
                                                                                                                                                                                      0                                                   -2
      ** must be bought in advance and used within 1 month
                                                                                         late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QOpen 06:30 -                                        J   F   M   A   M   J   J   A   S   O   N   D
                                                                                         22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.

    Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                August - September 2013
10         ZURICH’S DISTRICTS                                                                                                                                                                                       HISTORY
                                                                                                                                                                                                         ZURICH’S DISTRICTS                                                                11

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      XVI Century
                                                                        Seefeld (8)                                                                                                                                   Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major
                                                                        Seefeld is the name of the district on the eastern shore of the                                                                               critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say on
                                                                        lake. Over the past decade it has become an incredibly popular                                                                                moral matters and became the initiator of the Reformation
                                                                        area to live in - which results in very high rents. There are some                                                                            in Zurich from 1520 on. Apart from banning mercenary
                                                                        worries that this is driving away the area’s original inhabitants                                                                             service the Reformation meant an end to all frivolous
                                                                        and spoiling its charm. With all the new residents in the area,                                                                               behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was
                                                                        scores of trendy bars and restaurants have opened in Seefeld.                                                                                 forbidden or strictly regulated.
                                                                        But of course the major attraction here is the lake: on the
                                                                        lake side there is a promenade with boat rentals, two swimming
                                                                        spots and the ever (over-)crowded Blatterwiese, where you can                                                                                 Napoleon causes a little bother
                                                                        sunbathe on the grass, barbecue on two electric grills or dine                                                                                XVI - XVIII Century
                                                                        in one of the outdoor restaurants. Don’t leave Zurich without                                                                                 During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and
                                                                        having taken in the lake side.                                                                                                                influence increased. While political power was increasingly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      monopolised by a few families, new ideas and debate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      flourished. Among the intellectuals of the time were the
                                                                        Enge & Wollishofen (2)                                                                                                                        educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter
                                                                        The western shore of Lake Zurich is a bit less popular, but                                                                                   Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the
                                                                        that’s exactly why it’s worth a visit. When the Seefeld side                                                                                  Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon
                                                                        is overcrowded on a sunny summer weekend, you might                                                                                           took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the
                                                                        find it more relaxing on this side. For example swimming at                                                                                   Helvetic Republic, a centralised puppet state which only
                                                                        Mythenquai, or on Landiwiese, right on the shore. Enge district                                                                               survived for five years.
                                                                        houses the two gardens Belvoirpark and Rieterpark as well.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Railways and radical workers
                                                                        Langstrasse (4&5)                                                                                                                             XIX - XX Century
                                                                        Langstrasse (long street) is a street connecting districts 4 and                                                                              Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a
     The City of Zurich officially has 12 urban districts, called       5 through a tunnel underneath the ocean of railway tracks which                                                                               federation with much closer ties between the cantons than
     Stadtkreise. They are simply numbered from 1 to 12.                divide the western part of the city. Some people still think the                                                                              before. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland
     However these urban districts are mostly for administrative        street and its surroundings are an ugly, unpleasant area - but        Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.              ZIYP   was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher
     purposes - we introduce the areas visitors to Zurich should        they’re usually the ones who haven’t been there for years. It was                                                                             was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next
     know by the names they are usually known by. The numbers           once the best-known red light district in Switzerland. But in the                                                                             few decades like no other. Escher’s statue can be found, not
     in brackets show roughly which official districts they include.    last decade much has changed: more and more striptease and            Romans and Schwyzerdüütsch                                              surprisingly, just in front of the main train station. Switzerland
                                                                        night clubs have changed into urban bars now very popular with        100BC - X Century                                                       remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge
                                                                        Zurich’s young crowd. You will still find strip clubs, some street    Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at                  to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The
     Niederdorf (1)                                                     prostitution and drug trafficking as well as a few alcoholics - but   the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of              war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in
     Niederdorf (the lower village) is the part of the old town on      some of the most interesting bars, restaurants and clubs in the       the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from                  1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many
     the eastern bank of the river Limmat between the squares           city as well (see the nightlife chapter). As a result it’s Zurich’s   which Zurich developed. Roman rule ended around 400                     of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not
     Central and Bellevue. It’s teeming with restaurants, bars and,     most cosmopolitan and multi-cultural district, perfect for bar-       AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for            the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not
     spiteful tongues say, undiscerning visitors from neighbouring      hopping and with options for partying almost around the clock.        the next few centuries. One important change that falls into            introduced until 1971!
     canton Argovia (Argovians have to take a bit of flak in Zurich).                                                                         this obscure period is the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the
     There is also a sprinkling of adult entertainment, especially                                                                            Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to
     in and around Härringstrasse sex workers of both sexes look        Zürich West (5)                                                       become today’s Swiss German dialect (Schwyzerdüütsch).                  The Réduit and the war
     for suitors. Most of Niederdorf is a pedestrian area. It’s         Probably Zurich’s fastest developing district, this formerly                                                                                  XX Century
     criss-crossed with mediaeval alleys and small squares and          industrial part of the city is rapidly changing into a new                                                                                    During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally
     a walk through Niederdorf should be part of every visit to         business and residential area. Office space and residential           Zurich in women’s hands                                                 neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making
     Zurich. Especially if you leave very busy Niederdorfstrasse up     developments have sprouted everywhere, making construction                               XII - XIV Century                                    it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan
     hill towards Oberdorf you will discover some lovely spots you      sites a long-term feature. The area around Escher-Wyss-Platz                             In the 13th Century Zurich became                    prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the
     wouldn’t have expected. Along the river on the Limmatquai          has also become one of the city’s entertainment districts                                an imperial city, answering only to the              Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the
     cafés with outdoor seating are a good excuse to have a drink       with bars, restaurants and clubs popping up like mushrooms                               emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.                    so-called réduit strategy. From a traditional point of view
     and watch Zurich go by.                                            over the last 15 years. The first clubs set up in abandoned                              Formally Zurich was now headed by a                  this is what saved Switzerland from becoming part of Nazi
                                                                        industrial buildings, but now many have moved into newly built                           woman - the abbess of the Fraumünster                Germany, but more recently historians have suggested that
                                                                        or renovated locations. On the waste land on Geroldstrasse                               abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s               other factors may have been more important, sparking off
     City/Lindenhof (1)                                                 (aka street of clubs), the clubs still have a raw, provisional                           craftsmen made the newly founded                     intense and emotional public debate in the 1990s.
     On the western bank of the river Limmat lies the Lindenhof         feel, while the restaurants and bars around the large Abaton                             guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political
     quarter, the other part of the old town. Right in its centre,      multiplex cinema have a more mainstream character. Thanks             structure, weakening the power of the church and the
     on a small hill, Lindenhofplatz gives you excellent views          to its proximity to the train station Hardbrücke with night           landed gentry. Many of the guild houses, still in use today,            Zurich today
     over Niederdorf. Zurich’s citizens held their meetings here in     connections to the suburbs of Zurich, the area is flooded with        are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden                                 XX - XXI Century
     mediaeval times. The alleys and streets near here abound           suburban youngsters on the weekends.                                  or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the                                 After the war Switzerland’s economy
     with shops of all kinds and some restaurants and bars.                                                                                   shoemakers on the left).                                                                 boomed and mass immigration from
     Towards the west, Bahnhofstrasse - one of the world’s                                                                                                                                                                             Southern Europe set in, while culturally
     most famous shopping streets - marks the border of the             Zürich Nord - Oerlikon (11)                                                                                                                                    and politically Switzerland remained very
     Lindenhof district, and on the other side, the so-called City      The urban district 11 in the north of Zurich, behind the two          Zurich goes Swiss… and Protestant                                                        conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth
     includes Paradeplatz and the financial and business district,      hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is often referred to as Zurich         XIV - XVI Century                                                                        movements clashed with police, but
     spreading out towards the lake. The City is delimited by the       Nord. The villages Oerlikon, Affoltern, Seebach merged with           The guild revolution left Zurich a little isolated, so in 1351 Zurich                    also brought new cultural life to Zurich.
     Schanzengraben, an artificial moat from the lake to the river      Zurich in 1934. Close to the airport, Oerlikon is home to             joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291.                          Today Zurich is still a major financial
     Sihl, built in the 17th and 18th century to protect the citizens   numerous companies today, and to Zurich’s biggest event               This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow             centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has
     from all kind of attacks. These days things are more relaxed       hall Hallenstadion and the trade fair grounds. Lots of housing,       cantons, such as against Schwyz which got in the way of Zurich’s        become popular as a place to live for highly-skilled workers
     and you can stroll along the Schanzengraben, mostly on             offices, parks and hotels have been built here in the past            plans for territorial expansion. Soon the city ruled over lands         from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable
     wooden footbridges or stone ledges just by the waterside.          five years.                                                           all around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine.        apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                        August - September 2013
12          SUMMERTIME                                                                                                                                                                                                              SUMMERTIME                                          13

     Summer is definitely a pleasant time in Zurich, even                     2 Frauenbadi (river baths) E-4, Stadthausquai,                        5 Werdinsel (river pool Au-Höngg) Werdinsel,
     though it doesn’t usually mean just sunshine for weeks.                 8Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 211 95 92,               8Tüffenwies, tel. +41 44 341 71 93. The Werdinsel
     Summer is not just the warmest but also the wettest                     You can find these nostalgic river baths in Art Nouveau style         is an island in the river Limmat in the district of Höngg, a
     season. Much of the rain comes as thunderstorms,                        between Bürkliplatz and Münsterplatz – it’s women only.               few kilometres down the river. On sunny summer days it’s
     and luckily they pass by as fast as they appear. There                  The baths feature two pools, one for swimmers and one for             a lovely recreation area with free admission. Have a swim
     are plenty of great places to go on a hot day in Zurich:                non-swimmers and two sunbathing areas, one not visible                in the canal, sunbath on the meadow or let your kids play in
     swimming spots, open-air bars and squares to hang out                   from the outside and one on the pier towards the river. Wed           the paddling pool. There are lockers, toilets, fire places to
     on. The venues’ numbers refer to the map on page 13.                    and Thu after 20:00 the Frauenbadi turns into a bar - for             grill your own meat and a small restaurant offering food and
                                                                             both sexes. You have to leave your shoes at the entrance.             drinks. If you walk further west on the island, the nature gets
                                                                             Wed there are cultural happenings. Q Open 07:00 - 19:30               a little wilder. On summer weekends it’s crowded with families
     Swimming and relaxing                                                   (May 9 until Sept 16), Wed &Thu bar until 24:00, Sun evening          and folks having outdoor grill parties on the river bank. The
     on the water’s edge                                                     open-air disco (15Sfr). Admission 7Sfr.                               most western part of the island is a nudist area – which is
                                                                                                                                                   also frequented by the gay community, but not exclusively.
     With its lake and the River Limmat, Zurich offers plenty of              3 Oberer Letten (river baths) M-7, Lettensteg 10,                    To get to the island take tram N° 4 in direction Werdhölzli
     lovely spots for a swim. Yes, the water in both is cleaner              8Bahnhofquai/Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 362 92 00.                      and get off at Tüffenwies. Q Facilities open 09:00 - 20:00
     than in most European cities and fine for swimming                      The river area around the Letten hydro-electric power plant           (until Sept 9) No admission.
     in. Besides the possibility of just jumping into the lake               is a cool place to have a swim in summer - or to just hang
     anywhere (watch out for ships and boats), the city has                  out with the city’s young and fancy crowd. Just behind the
     eleven official outdoor swimming baths on the lake or                   National Museum next to the main train station, the river             Open-air bars & Restaurants
     the river, many with facilities such as cloakrooms, toilets,            Limmat flows into a canal feeding the power plant. On the             Many Zurich restaurants have pleasant outdoor seating
     kiosks etc. For many of them an entrance fee is due                     left side of the canal (when you’re looking downstream) are           areas, and Zurich inhabitants really love to eat or a have a
     (7/5/3.5Sfr), but the ones on the river are usually free.               the newly renovated official swimming facilities, in a concrete       drink under the open sky during the summer months. Many
     Many also turn into lively open-air bars at night. We list              construction by the water (access from Kornhausbrücke,                of the bars and restaurants we list below are solely open-air.
     our favourite places by the water below.                                close to Limmatplatz). Entrance is free. There’s a cloakroom          That means they close when it’s raining. Many of the lake         The Enge lake baths turn into a bar at night.
                                                                             there, lockers, a lifeguard at certain times and sunbathing           and river baths turn into lively bars in the evening (check       big beer (ein grosses) at the self-service counter and a
                                                                             areas, one of which is women-only. There, at the Panama               out Oberer Letten and Enge lake pool, see page 12). For           bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad and enjoy the
                                                                             bar ( you can eat and drink while                    more outdoor dining suggestions, check the box Waterside          shade of the big old trees (where they are still standing)
                                                                             overlooking the river (open in the evening as well). On the           restaurants on p. 38.                                             and the view over the river. There is a resident band that
                                                                             other side of the canal there is a beach volley court and a                                                                             plays hit music (15:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 22:30) for the mostly
                                                                             popular sunbathing area as well as the bar Primitivo which             6 Bauschänzli E- 4, Stadthausquai 2,                             fifty-plus guests who hit the dance floor, and an area with
                                                                             serves drinks and food until midnight. If you walk down               8 Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 212 49 19,                             service, where not only the food but also the prices are more
                                                                             the path on the right-hand side of the river from the main   Once a part of the fortification             sophisticated. Brass bands for the morning pint on Sunday
                                                                             station you’ll soon notice when you reach them. You can               of the city towards the lake, these days the Bauschänzli          mornings. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (self service: 13 - 38Sfr,
                                                                             also swim down the canal – just jump in and float towards             peninsula makes itself useful as a beer garden. Get a             served area: 29 - 65Sfr).
                                                                             the swimming facilities. Remember: good swimmers only! Q
                                                                             Changing rooms etc. open 09:00 - 20:00 (until Sept 9), bars
                                                                             until 24:00. No admission.
                                                                              4 Seebad Enge (lake pool) D-6, Mythenquai 9,
                                                                             8Rentenanstalt, tel. +41 44 201 38 89,
                                                                             The Enge lake baths are close to the port Enge on the
                                                                             southern side of the lake. It has a mixed and women-only
                                                                             area, both with a pool construction which is in the lake and
                                                                             filled with lake water and access to the lake proper. There
                                                                             are also three marked swimming lanes in the lake. The Enge
                                                                             turns into a lively bar and restaurant in the evening - nice for
     Get out your goggles! Or at least the sunglasses.                       sipping a beer and eating some meat from the barbecue
                                                       Zurich Tourism (MR)   while you dangle your feet in the water and enjoy the light
                                                                             lake breeze. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 (09:00 - 19:00 in Sept),
     Remember swimming in the lake and especially the river                  bar until 24:00 (until Sept 16).
     is only for good swimmers. Bear in mind that there is not
     necessarily a lifeguard present even in official swimming
     facilities. Swimming in the River Limmat in between the
     lake and the river swimming baths Oberer Letten (close
     to the main station) is forbidden, as there is busy boat
     and ship traffic.
      1 Chinawiese / Zürichhorn (Blatterwiese) G-7,
     8 Fröhlichstrasse. The meadow Chinawiese (official
     name Blatterwiese) next to the Chinagarten is popular for
     sunbathing and for some beach sports like badminton too -
     even though there is no actual beach. The shore is covered
     with stones, so it’s not perfect for swimming though it’s
     possible. But it’s a great place for a picnic. There is an electro
     grill (works until 23:00) for free use - just bring your own
     meat or vegetables (There is a grocery store at Stadelhofen
     station open late, seven days a week). For kids there is a
     huge playground. If you prefer eating out than being the
     chef yourself, the Fischerstube and Lakeside restaurants                Roasting flesh of all kinds - lakeshore barbecuing in Zurich.
     are close by.                                                                                                           Zurich Tourism (MR)

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                      August - September 2013
14          SUMMERTIME                                                                                                                                                                                                        SUMMERTIME                                          15

      7 Central Garden Central 1, 8Central, tel. +41 44
     256 56 56, Just next to Central square, the                                                                           Squares to hang out on
     hotel of the same name has a small garden restaurant, ideal                                                                            14 Idaplatz A-3, 8Lochergut. A little off the beaten
     for an out-of-sync meal on a city ramble, as the kitchen cooks                                                                        tourist track, Idaplatz is one of our favourite squares in town.
     all day. Order a tartar or maybe a Thai curry (hot and subtly                                                                         In walking distance of the eastern end of Langstrasse (tram
     spicy) or try one of their salad variations. For dessert order a                                                                      No 2 direction Farbhof, get off at Lochergut) this square was
     lemon & lime sorbet with vodka and lean back in the shade                                                                             recently refurbished by the city. A few trees and benches
     of the parasols. Indoors there is a piano-bar and the steak                                                                           make it a relaxing spot without any traffic. In the evening
     restaurant King’s Cave. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (19 - 28Sfr).                                                                           people from the neighbourhood come out for a drink or to
                                                                                                                                           play some pétanque on the sandy surface of the square.
      8 Frau Gerolds Garten K-7, Geroldstrasse 23,                                                                                         For drinks and food, there are two bars, a small Italian-
     8 Hardbrücke, www .geroldgarten .ch. Yet another                                                                                      style ice cream shop and a lovely restaurant with outdoor
     attraction has sprouted on the urban waste land next to                                                                               seating in the buildings surrounding the square. For food we
     Hardbrücke station - the open-air bar and restaurant Frau                                                                             recommend Restaurant Piazza (Idaplatz 2, +41 44 558 95
     Gerolds Garten which sprawls over some 20’000 m². Old                                                                                 29). If you are just after a cold beer, you can get quite cheap
     shipping containers house the two bars and the kitchen and                                                                            ones at the kiosk on the corner of the square.
     provide a terrace where you can nip on a drink and enjoy the       Frau Gerolds Garten - industrial and seriously trendy.       AM
     view over the sea of railway tracks and beyond. There really                                                                          15 Rosenhof F - 3, 8 Rudolf - Brun - Brücke. This
     is a garden too, including vegetables which apparently are         women and the city centre’s hip crowd. But don’t worry:            courtyard-like little square in the Niederdorf part of the old
     used in the kitchen. From the four menus on offer daily we         you will fit in here, whether in business clothes or in shorts     town is circled by bars and restaurants and is one of the
     chose a very decent crayfish salad with thousand-island            and flip-flops. For snacks there is pizza and sausages to          meeting points in the evening. The old houses surrounding it
     dressing. There is also a charcoal grill with sausages and a       grill on the barbecue. Monday nights market with young             set you back to mediaeval times and in hot nights the hustle        The pedalos all in line, waiting for customers.              AM
     tent, providing dry seating even in the rain. Q Open 11:00         designers presenting their collections. Q Open 19:15 -             and bustle give it an almost Mediterranean atmosphere.
     - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.                                        24:00, Fri 18:45 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00.                       Either bring your own beer and sit down on one of the steps
                                                                                                                                           or get drinks in one of the many bars around the square             Pier 7 Limmatquai 7, tel. +41 44 261 70 56,
       9 Hechtplatz Sommergarten F-4, Hechtplatz 7,                                                                                        and get a seat in the outside bar areas. If you walk along
     8Bellevue, Hechtplatz is a square in            12    Summergarte C-2, Zeughaushof /                               Niederdorfstrasse from Central, turn right into the small alley
     the Niederdorf close to Bellevue. Every summer it turns into a     Zeughausstrasse, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 77 455 12 90,                 after Hotel Adler to get to the square.                             Boat taxi
     lively open-air restaurant and bar, serving pasta with different In the courtyard of a group of                                                                                     Fancy a ride on the lake with your (almost) private captain?
     sauces, panini and drinks until midnight. In the evening this is   buildings once used as an arsenal lies the Summergarte, an                                                                             There are two boat taxis operating on the city’s watercourses
     definitely one of the city centre’s summer hot spots with the      open-air restaurant with an alternative feel - and awesome         On the lake                                                         which can get you quickly from A to B, be it from the western
     city’s hipsters and wannabes populating the whole square.          meat and fish from the charcoal grill. Simply order your food      On a hot summer day, there is nothing better than a cruise on       lakeshore to Seefeld or from Bellevue to Tiefenbrunnen. Just
     Get yourself a beer, sit down and enjoy the Zurich summer          and drinks at the bar-trailer and take a seat. They will call      the lake with a fresh breeze - here are your options for a rather   call them to be picked up - for an additional fee they will even
     breeze. Q Open until mid-September, 11:00 - 24:00.                 your name when your food is ready. We don’t go crazy about         private cruise. For the cruises and round trips on offer by Lake    take you down the river to the main railway station.
                                                                        food too easily we think, but the lamb and the salmon here         Zurich Navigation Company ZSG and more on the lake see p. 48.
      10 Pumpstation F-5, Utoquai, 8Bellevue, tel. +41                  were grilled to perfection and the different salads that came
     44 260 96 69, www.pumpstation .ch. Fancy a meat                    along with them really were excellent. Warmly recommended!         Boat rentals
     skewer from the charcoal grill under the open sky directly on      If you don’t mind sitting with other people at long tables, that   Why not rent a pedalo or a rowing boat and take a cruise on
     the lake? Then the Pumpstation might be just what you’re           is. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00 (grill starts 18:30). Mixed grill         the lake to enjoy the sun - and the water, maybe. You can’t
     looking for. This popular joint is one of the few restaurants      platters around 30Sfr per person, including side dishes.           miss the rentals: two of them are situated on platforms on
     where you can sit right on the lake. Also a nice place for an      Bratwurst with salads 15Sfr.                                       the lakeshore between Bellevue and Zürichhorn, one on the
     evening drink. If you walk along the shore from Bellevue                                                                              river side of the Quaibrücke at Bellevue and one on the Enge
     towards Zürichhorn, you can’t miss it, the seating is on both       13 Xenix Bar - Kanzlei C-3, Kanzleistrasse 52,                    side of the lake. Prices: pedalos 19 - 35Sfr/h, motorboats
     sides of the footpath. No reservations. Q Open until 24:00.        8Helvetiaplatz, Just next to Helvetiaplatz           (6 HP) 48 - 70Sfr/h.
                                                                        in the Langstrasse district, the gravel square around the old
      11 Rimini - Männerbad Schanzengraben D-4,                         Kanzlei school house is flooded by an urban crowd every night      Bootsvermietung Enge Mythenquai 25, tel. +41 44
     Badweg 10, 8Bahnhof Selnau, Set in                  who while away their evening with a cold beer from the Xenix,      211 22 62,
     the Männerbad, an open air swimming place for men only             a bar and cinema situated in a wooden building next to the
     during daytime, the Rimini bar is a buzzing open-air bar           school. And there is food too. The outdoor bar has to close at     Lago Utoquai 6, tel. +41 44 262 22 20, www.lago
     in the evening. The illuminated trees of the neighbouring          midnight, but Thu - Sat you can buy drinks inside until 01:30
     Old Botanical Garden make it look like a little oasis right        and try to smuggle them outside - which is usually no problem.
     in the centre of the city. Hidden behind the former Zurich         This is where urban and multicultural Zurich meets. Q Open
     stock exchange, it’s a meeting point for business men and          16:00 - 00:30, Thu - Sat 16:00 - 01:30, Sun 11:30 - 00:30.           Bicycles
                                                                                                                                             Züri rollt - bikes for free E-1, Hauptbahnhof /
                                                                                                                                             Velostation Nord & Süd, tel. +41 43 288 34 45,
                                                                                                                                    Bikes and skateboards to borrow
                                                                                                                                             for free - all you need is identification and 20Sfr as a
                                                                                                                                             deposit. There is no charge if you bring it back by 21:30
                                                                                                                                             the same day - if you want to keep it overnight it’s 10Sfr.
                                                                                                                                             The Velostation Süd is close to the post office Sihlpost on
                                                                                                                                             the southern end of the long underground passage, near
                                                                                                                                             tracks 52-54. The northern one is on the other side of
                                                                                                                                             the station, close to track 18 between the Swiss national
                                                                                                                                             museum and the river Sihl. In summer there are three
                                                                                                                                             additional stations (Pestalozziwiese/Globus, Bellevue,
                                                                                                                                             Viadukt, Bahnhof Enge, see summer map). Q Open
                                                                                                                                             08:00 - 21:30, summer stations 09:00 - 21:30 (Bahnhof
                                                                                                                                             Enge 10:00 - 21:30).

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                August - September 2013
16        SUMMERTIME                                                                                                                                                                                                      CULTURE & EVENTS                                                          17

                                                                                               Seetaxi, tel. +41 79 561 62 63,                  Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and      11.09 Wednesday
      Golf                                                                                     20Sfr per person (minimum 5) within the Zurich bay area.          ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme      Tonhalle Orchestra - Young soloists
                                                                                                                                                                 of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere.   Tonhalle. Orpheum - music festival for the advancement of

                                                                   Yuri Arcurs -
                                                                                               Wassertaxi, tel. +41 78 730 96 00,             Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring     young soloists. Conductor: Kristjan Järvi, violoncello: Chiara
                                                                                               15Sfr per person (minimum 3), 20Sfr to the more distant           the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but      Enderle, piano: Arsha Kaviani. Works by Johannes Brahms,
                                                                                               destinations, 25Sfr down the Schanzengraben canal.                unfortunately only few productions in English.                   Robert Schumann et al.QConcert starts 19:30, 24 - 112Sfr.
                                                                                                                                                                 We list the most important venues in the venue list and          18.09 Wednesday & 19.09 Thursday
                                                                                               Lookouts, walks and hikes                                         refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event       Tonhalle Orchestra
                                                                                               Zurich is surrounded by woody hills, so why not climb one         takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Tonhalle. Conductor: David Zinman, piano: Alexandre
                                                                                               to take in the views? You can either hike up or let the train     address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Tharaud. Works by W. A. Mozart and Richard Strauss.Q
                                                                                               take you there - or even the cable car. An enjoyable endeavor     classical music, exhibitions, festivals, rock & pop concerts
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.
                                                                                               either way.                                                       and theater & comedy. Within the sections it’s ordered by
                                                                                                16 Felsenegg lookout Zelgstrasse 80, Adliswil, tel.
      Wondering where to play golf in and around Zurich?                                       +41 44 710 73 30, This short trip takes you           Of course there are way more events than we can list.
      Relax - it’s all here! We’ve put together a selection of                                 up to one of the nicest lookout points in the Zurich area:        We recommend checking out for more
      courses and driving ranges. There is one range and a                                     Felsenegg. Getting up there is fairly easy, with the only         events.
      9-hole golf course within the city limits and a few ranges                               aerial cable car operating in the canton of Zurich. First, take
      and courses you can reach within less than half an hour’s                                the S4 train in direction Langnau-Gattikon and get off after
      drive of Zurich.                                                                         15 minutes in Adliswil. From there it’s a well sign-posted        Classical music
      A problem you might face however are the playing                                         10-minute walk to the valley station of the aerial cable car,     31.08 Saturday
      restrictions all these courses have. Most probably unlike                                where the cabin leaves every 15 minutes for Felsenegg (runs
      your home country, you need at least a certificate of
                                                                                                                                                                 Tonhalle Orchestra
                                                                                               08:00 - 22:00). Once you are up there, refresh yourself in        Tonhalle Zürich. Conductor: David Zinman, drums: Martin
      proficiency, the so called platzreife if you want to play                                the restaurant and of course take in the view of the city, the
      on a Swiss golf course. The platzreife (PR) is an official                                                                                                 Grubinger. Works by Tan Dun & Ottorino Respighi. Q Concert
                                                                                               lake and the Alps. There are also many options for a walk: for    starts 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.
      document, stating you know the basics of golf. You have                                  example follow the panorama trail to Uetliberg (90 minutes),
      to pass an exam to get it. On top of that many clubs                                     from where the S10 train will get you back to Zurich city - a
      demand their guests to be a member of a Swiss club                                                                                                         06.09 Friday
                                                                                               nice roundtrip on a summer day. Q From Zurich a ticket                                                                             Zurich’s renowned Tonhalle Orchestra.
      and therefore to have a membership card of the Swiss                                     for zones 110, 150, 155 is needed. Tickets valid for two
                                                                                                                                                                 Tchaikovsky Symphony Orchestra Moscow                                                                                        PD

      Golf Association (or and a certain handicap.                                 hours: 8.40/4.20Sfr. Just for the cable car: 4.20/2.90Sfr.        Tonhalle. Conductor: Vladimir Fedoseyev, violin: Ye-Eun Choi,
      A club membership in your home country is sometimes                                      For the round trip the Albis daypass is your best option:         piano: Eduard Kiprsky. Works by Karol Szymanowski, Sergej
      recognized as well. We recommend to always check                                         16.80/8.40Sfr. Trip to Felsenegg and Uetliberg is also            Prokofyev, Sergej Rachmaninow. Q Concert starts 19:30.           20.09 Friday
      the exact access rules to a course on the respective                                     included with the Zurich Card.                                                                                                     tonhalleLATE
      website or by phone and notify them of your visit in                                                                                                                                                                        Tonhalle. Classic meets pop: the Tonhalle Orchestra Zurich
      advance. And don’t forget to book your tee times well                                    17   Teehaus Jurablick Uetliberg, tel. +41 44 493                                                                                  (conductor: David Zinman) plays Eine Alpensinfonie by
      in advance, especially on weekends (sometimes guests                                     12 36, www.jurablick .com. This gem of a teahouse                   Zurich venue list                                              Richard Strauss. After the concert there are club sounds
      are allowed on weekdays only). There are some pitch &                                    in the forest on Zurich’s own little mountain Uetliberg is                                                                         until the early morning.QConcert starts 22:00, 20-45Sfr.
      putt courses where one can play without memberships,                                     well hidden and even locals sometimes fail to find it the           Hallenstadion O -2, Wallisellenstrasse 45,
      certificate or handicaps.                                                                first time - but don’t worry, Zurich In Your Pocket will tell       8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.hallenstadion .ch.                   24.09 Tuesday
      We list the nearest and best driving ranges, golf and                                    you how to get there in 20 minutes’ walk. From the final            Zurich’s biggest concert and event hall. Tickets: www.         Zurich Chamber Orchestra - Season Opening
      pitch & putt courses:                                                                    station of the train to Uetliberg (S 10 from main station), and tel. +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).        Tonhalle. Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington, piano: Lars Vogt.
                                                                                               walk back in the direction the train came from and take the         Kaufleuten D-3, Pelikanplatz, 8 Sihlstrasse,                   Works by Richard Wagner, Ludwig van Beethoven and Joseph
      Golf courses & driving ranges                                                            path towards Ringlikon (sign). Soon after the path crosses                                                                         Haydn. Q Concert starts 19:30, 16-105Sfr.
                                                                                                                                                          The Kaufleuten Festsaal hosts
      Dolder Golfclub Kurhausstrasse 66, tel. +41 44                                           the railway tracks, a steep trail leads to the left into the        mostly blues, soul, rock and jazz concerts. Tickets: www.
      254 50 10, 9-hole course above                                        woods (and is marked with a signpost ‘Teehaus’). After a  , +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min)                 27.09 Friday
      the city with beautiful views towards the lake and the                                   few minutes on the wild path you reach the lovely old house,                                                                       Intl. Film Music Competition
                                                                                               where from Fri to Sun drinks and food (try the platter with         Komplex 457 Hohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli, tel.
      Alps. ASG-card and a minimum handicap of 30 required,                                                                                                        +41 44 500 00 60, www The                      Sihlcity Arena Cinema, Kalanderplatz 8, 8Sihlcity. The
      tee times for guests Mon, Thu & Fri until 14:00, Tue &                                   dried meat and cheese!) await you, including awesome
                                                                                                                                                                   city’s third largest concert hall, it mostly hosts rock        2nd International Film Music Competition will take place during
      Wed early morning only. Green fee 100Sfr. Book your                                      views towards the mountains. Bring good shoes and stay
                                                                                                                                                                   concerts. Tickets:, +41 900 325 325          the 9th Zurich Film Festival at Sihlcity’s Arena Cinemas. The
      slot in advance by phone.                                                                on the path, especially if you plan to go back along the other
                                                                                                                                                                   (1.19Sfr/min) or, +41 900 800 800          Zurich Chamber Orchestra and the Zurich Jazz Orchestra will
                                                                                               unmarked, almost Alpine path, following Coiffeurweg and
                                                                                                                                                                   (1.19Sfr/min).                                                 perform the best works submitted to the competition. A jury
                                                                                               approaching Uetliberg peak from the other side. Q Open
      Golf Adlisberg Driving Range Adlisbergstrasse                                                                                                                                                                               will choose the winning composition.QConcert starts 18:30,
      35, tel. +41 44 251 32 00, www.golfadlisberg .ch.                                        Fri - Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.                         Maag Halle K-7, Hardstrasse 219, 8Schiffbau,                   35 – 110Sfr. After party at 22:00. Tickets:
      On Adlisberg, just behind the Dolder Grand hotel you                                                                                                         Escher-Wyss Platz / Hardbrücke. A big concert hall
      will find the only public driving range within city limits                               Parks                                                               in Zurich West, hosts up to 3000 spectators. Tickets:
                                                                                                                                                         , +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).
      featuring 16 teeing grounds (mats), 1 pitching and
      chipping lawn, 1 sand bunker, 1 putting green. Q Open                                    The city also has some gorgeous parks, many of them offer
                                                                                                                                                                   Moods K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel.                07.06 - 08.09
      10:00 - sunset.                                                                          a perfect setting for a sunset walk or a picnic. Here come                                                                         Gasträume 2013 - public art in Zurich
                                                                                                                                                                   +41 44 276 80 00, Zurich’s first
                                                                                               our favourites (see also p. 52):                                                                                          The city of Zurich
                                                                                                                                                                   address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music.
      Pitch ‘n Putt - short track golf for everyone                                                                                                                Tickets:, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/          in collaboration with the galleries of the city is showing 13
                                                                                               18 Belvoirpark , D-7, Seestrasse 125, 8Museum                       min).                                                          works of art in public places. On Paradeplatz for example,
      Golfpark Nuolen Rütihof, Wangen, tel. +41 55                                             Rietberg.QOpen all day.                                                                                                            you can see Dystopia Stalker, an installation in glass by Lori
      450 57 60, This club has a 9-hole                                                                                                         Plaza B-3, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude,                Hersberger. Its smashed safety glass refers to vandalism,
      short course (Par 27) you can play without membership                                    19 Botanischer Garten (botanical garden) ,                          tel. +41 44 542 90 90,                    frustration and aggression in urban society. Next to the
      or the PR. You should know the basic rules and behaviour                                 Zollikerstrasse 107, (Hegibachplatz).                 Tonhalle E-5, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz,                 Prime Tower skyscraper in Zurich West on Maagplatz, British
      on a golf course and be dressed accordingly (no jeans,                                   QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 18:00.              The Tonhalle is the place           sculptor Mark Handforth has realised a sculpture from
      collared shirt). The green fee is 25/30Sfr, golf clubs to                                                                                                    for classical music in Zurich. Tickets: www.tonhalle-          the basic form of a bent wire clothes hanger - ‘in a playful
                                                                                               20 Rieter Park, C-7/D-7, Seestrasse 125, 8 Museum
      hire 12Sfr. There is a driving range too.                                                                                                          , +41 44 206 34 34 (10:00 - 18:00)                 dialogue with the urban atmosphere’. There is a programme
                                                                                               Rietberg.QOpen all day.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                                   August - September 2013
18         CULTURE & EVENTS                                                                                                                                                                              CULTURE & EVENTS                                                19

                                                                    booklet with maps indicating where to find the artworks and
      Cinemas                                                       descriptions of them in German and English. Download it                Festivals
                                                                    at There are also free                10.08 Saturday
      Zurich has 16 cinemas, lots of them with more than            guided tours, you just need to sign up online.
      one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens.
                                                                                                                                           Street Parade
      Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their         21.06 - 21.12                                                          Bürkliplatz, www .streetparade .ch. This year the
      original language with German and French subtitles. But                                                                              Street Parade will rock the city of Zurich for the 22nd
                                                                    Archaeology - Treasures of                                             time. Several hundreds of thousands of participants and
      the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of         the Swiss National Museum
      the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to                                                                             spectators are expected, dancing open-air to electronic
                                                                    E-2, Swiss National Museum, Museumsstrasse                             house and techno sounds. There are 8 stages located
      show more and more movies dubbed in German. In the            2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www
      best case they show two versions of the same movie: one                                                                              at the lakeside and around 30 so-called love mobiles,
                                                                    .archaeologie .landesmuseum .ch. The Swiss National                    moving stages which move around the lake from Utoquai
      in original language and one dubbed. In smaller cinemas       Museum in Zurich is exhibiting some of the masterpieces
      you can still watch all movies in the original language                                                                              towards Mythenquai.QProgramme on stages starts
                                                                    from its archaeological collection. This exceptional collection        13:00. At the same time the first love mobile sets off at
      - lots of them in English of course. They are marked          extends over thousands of years from 100’000 BC to 800
      with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with                                                                                 Utoquai. Free admission.
                                                                    AD, i.e. from the Palaeolithic to the early Middle Ages. The
      German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital)        400 items on display include one of the first artistic finds from
      indicates the movie is spoken in German. Check the daily                                                                             15.08 Thursday - 01.09 Sunday
                                                                    Switzerland, a pierced baton decorated with engravings of
      newspapers or for programme and              wild horses as well as the heaviest gold vessel of its time ever
                                                                                                                                           Theater Spektakel                                             The street parade is a popular event indeed.              PD
      screening times. And don’t be surprised when the movie        found in western Europe, the Altstetten bowl. A fascinating            Landiwiese, 8 Billoweg, www .theaterspektakel
      stops after an hour - it’s just the Swiss-style movie break   documentation, taking us on an extraordinary journey back              .ch. A festival for theatre enthusiasts, but not only: the
      allowing you to fetch another drink or snack. The cinemas     to our ancestors. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00,             Landiwiese park on the western side of the lake turns into
      we list below usually show films in original versions.                                                                               a quite magical area for 18 days with many restaurants,       29.08 Thursday - 01.09 Sunday
                                                                    Mon closed. Admission 10/8Sfr.                                                                                                       Zürich Openair
      Tickets cost somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr,                                                                                         food stalls and bars - and five stages (one of them open-
                                                                                                                                           air and almost on the lake) hosting dozens of different       Rümlang, Launched only a few
      depending on the movie and the category you choose.
                                                                                                                                           theatre and dance productions. For the programme check        years ago, Zurich has its own open-air music festival! For
      On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.
                                                                                                                                  But it’s worth a visit even if you   four days a field just outside the city limits in Rümlang
      Arthouse Movie F-4, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus,                                                                                          don’t want to see a performance - the atmosphere on a         becomes Switzerland’s centre of indie and electronic music.
      tel. +41 44 250 55 10, There are                                                                                    late summer evening is unbeatable, with the scent of food     The line-up consists of top international acts like Nine Inch
      six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich. The Arthouse Movie we                                                                                from all corners of the earth in the air and street artists   Nails, Arctic Monkeys, The XX - and many many more. Check
      list is the only one with more than one screen, showing                                                                              everywhere it’s like entering some secret oriental basar.     their website for details. Q Daypass
      studio and independent movies.                                                                                                       Q Tickets at, +41 44 412 30 30 or on        88Sfr, 2 days 140Sfr, 3 days 180Sfr, 4 days 210Sfr. Tickets:
      Capitol F-2, Weinbergstrasse 9, 8Central, tel.                                                                                       site. Free admission to the festival area.          , + 41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min.).
      +41 900 556 789, The Capitol offers
      six screens with 850 seats all in all. It‘s situated next
      to Central, showing American blockbusters as well as
      European films - usually in original version. To call it’s
      1.50Sfr per call & min.

      Zurich Opera F-5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse
                                                                    Vallotton’s once-scandalous Bain au soir d’été, now at the
                                                                    Kunsthaus.                                               PD                                                   Landesmuseum Zürich.
      1, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268
      66 66, www.opernhaus .ch. The Zurich Opera is a               05.07 - 15.09
      magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891        Félix Vallotton
      by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann
      Helmer. You can buy tickets on the opera’s webpage, by        G-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41
      phone or at the ticket office on site (open from 11:00        44 253 84 84, It’s no secret that
      until the performance starts, Sun from 90 minutes             the Kunsthaus Zürich holds a very important collection of
                                                                    paintings by Félix Vallotton, including key works such as the

      before the show). Plays are usually with German and
      English surtitles:                                            once-scandalous Bain au soir d’été (1892/93). Much less
                                                                    well known is that, in addition to the works accumulated by
      The plays in September:                                       the Kunsthaus through a combination of selective purchases
      Alexandre Bis                                                 and gifts, Switzerland is also home to a second, equally
      by Bohuslav Martinů, directed by Jan Essinger
      Sept 21 (11:30, free entry)
                                                                    important private collection of Vallottons. Until now, its full
                                                                    extent has been concealed from the public. The Kunsthaus                  Treasures
      Die Soldaten
      by Alois Zimmermann, directed by Calixto Bieito
                                                                    Zürich is currently showing some 50 paintings, with half of
                                                                    the works from this private collection. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,
                                                                    Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission: 20/15Sfr.
                                                                                                                                              of the Swiss National
      Sept 22 & 26 and October 4, 8, 15, 19, 26.
      Don Giovanni
      by W. A. Mozart, directed by Sebastian Baumgarten
                                                                    12.07 - 30.08
      Sept 25 & 29 and Oct 6 & 11.                                  Stencil Bastards II                                                       21.06.2013−21.12.2014
      Rigoletto                                                     B -2, Starkar t Exhibitions, Brauerstrasse 126,
      by Giuseppe Verdi, directed by Tatjana Gürbaca                8Bäckeranlage, Stencil art is something
      Sept 27 and Oct 3.                                            you have almost certainly seen - on a wall in a city. This branch
                                                                    of urban street art is just as much part of the revolution in Egypt                                                  Opening hours                        Landesmuseum Zürich.
      La Straniera                                                  as it is in the gallery scene. Here nine stencil artists from across                                                 Tue–Sun 10am–5pm | Thu 10am–7pm      Museumstrasse 2 | 8001 Zürich
      by Vincenzo Bellini, directed by Christof Loy                 Europe will paint live in the gallery - let’s hope it doesn’t make                                                   Open on public holidays    
      Sept 28 and Oct 2, 6, 13, 17, 22.
                                                                    them tame. Q Thu & Fri 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 14:00 - 19:00.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                         August - September 2013
                                                                                                       CULTURE & EVENTS                                                21
A celebration of cinema.
                                                                                                       07.09 Saturday - 09.09 Monday
                                        Zurich Film Festival                                           Knabenschiessen
                                                                                                       A-7, Albisgüetli, 8Laubegg, www.knabenschiessen
                                                                                                       .de. The origins of this sport shooting competition lie in
                                                                                                       the 17th century. Nowadays, besides the competition for
                                                                                                       boys and girls aged 14 - 17 this is also the largest fun fair
                                                                                                       in Switzerland with dozens of rollercoasters, food stalls and
                                                                                                       tens of thousands of spectators. Tram N°13 in direction
                                                                                                       Albisgüetli/Laubegg gets you there.
                                        There’s just nothing that beats the buzz of a festival
                                        atmosphere! For all those who love cinema as much as           Rock, Pop and Jazz concerts
                                        we do, Zurich is the place to be from September 26 to          For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music
                                        October 6, when the Zurich Film Festival (ZFF) will take       venues’ on page 42.
                                        place for the 9th time.
                                        The Zurich Film Festival only started off in 2005, but in      22.08 Thursday
                                        the short time since it has established itself as a major      The Offspring
                                        event in the calendar of film industry and film lovers         Komplex 457. The icons of melodic punk, the Offspring from
                                        alike. Well over 100 films were shown last year, many          California, USA! Q Concert starts 20:00, 75Sfr.
                                        of them world premieres. The four competitions are
                                        the heart of the festival, one for international feature
                                        films, one for German-language feature films and one
                                        competition each for international and German-language
                                        documentaries. All the films shown in the competitions
                                        are at least Swiss premieres, but often world premieres.
                                        That moment at the beginning of a film festival is perhaps
                                        the best: leafing through the dozens of films in the pro-
                                        gramme, deciding which you want to see, which you cannot
                                        possibly miss and looking forward to all those cinematic
                                        adventures. This year’s programme is not published yet in
                                        full but there is already a lot to look forward to.
                                        The guest country for the non-competition section New
                                        World View is Brazil this year, and the screening of new
                                        independent productions will be an opportunity for new
                                        insights into this complex country where so much is
                                        changing currently – or maybe should be. The Sounds of
                                        Brazil opening party has a line-up of musicians and DJs
                                        who also depart from the set traditions (Sihlcity B-7, Sep-
                                        tember 28). Another out-of-competition section is Border
                                        Lines where films about border situations and the social       Still going strong - Roger Waters of the legendary Pink
                                        conundrums they create will be screened in collaboration       Floyd.                                                     PD

                                        with Medicins Sans Frontières (MSF). The competition for
                                        film music composition offers yet another perspective:         11.09 Wednesday
                                        young composers are invited to compose the score for           Roger Waters - The Wall - Live
                                        a 5-minute film. The winning piece and runners-up will be      Stadion Letzigrund, Badenerstrasse 500, 8Letzigrund.
                                        performed live by the Zurich Jazz Orchestra and the Zurich     The Wall by Pink Floyd is one of the paradigmatic works of
                                        Chamber Orchestra – see p. 17 for details.                     rock music. This summer, mastermind Roger Waters brings
                                                                                                       the famous show to the stadiums of Europe.QConcert starts
                                        You’re also likely to encounter many well-known faces from     20:00, 108 - 199Sfr. Tickets:, +41 900
                                        the world of film during the festival. Such personalities as   800 800 (1.19Sfr./min).

Tickets as of September 16 th , 2013
                                        Hollywood producer Jerry Weintraub, actress Helen Hunt
                                        or Richard Gere all accepted awards for career achieve-        13.09 Friday
                                        ments last year. The jury also always includes stars and       Kenny Garrett Quintet /
                                        influential figures and then there are the master classes
                                        for young film makers hosted in recent years by e.g. Ken       Moods. American saxophonist Kenny Garrett opens the
                                        Loach or Jessica Housner. If you want to hear directors,       season at the Moods! He has played with Duke Ellington,
                                        screenwriters or actors talking about their perspective        Miles Davis, Freddie Hubbard and many more and is now on
                                        on cinema, add one of the ZFF Masters events to your           tour with his latest record Seeds from the Underground.
                                        agenda, where the audience can also ask questions.             Q Concert starts 20:30, 45Sfr.
                                        So with debates, music, parties, celebrities and films         14.09 Saturday
                                        films films, the Zurich Film Festival is set to be full of     Status Quo
                                        buzz again this year. We can’t wait for it to start. Dim       Hallenstadion. With their specific sound rock’n roll stars
                                        the lights please!                                             Status Quo have sold over 100 million records. In addition,
                                        26.9 - 6.10,                                       they are real live-show dinosaurs: Status Quo has played
                                                                                                       around 6000 shows. Over 25 million fans have seen them
                                        Cinemas Corso, Arthouse Le Paris, Arena Filmcity and           live so far! Rockin ‘All Over The World!QConcert starts
                                        Filmpodium. The festival centre is on Sechseläutenplatz.       20:00, 60-75Sfr.

                                                                                                  August - September 2013
22          CULTURE & EVENTS                                                                                                                                                                                                   QUICK PICKS                                                 23

     15.09 Sunday                                                        20.09 Friday
     CocoRosie                                                           Mélissa Laveaux                                                     Zurich at a glance
     Kaufleuten. The American sisters Bianca and Sierra Rosie            Moods. Mélissa Laveaux’s husky voice and her folky,                                Eat                                      Drink                                   Do
     Casady mix influences from pop, opera, electronica and hip          soul and blues-soaked, percussive guitar playing grab the
     hop to a fragile, lo-fi style referred to as ’freak folk’. On the   audience from the first chord. A charming mix of soul, blues        Local          As one of the pioneers of                Th e Einf ach (p. 41) opened            Sunday evening draws a loyal
     road with their current album Tales of Grass Widow. Q               and folk! Q Concert starts 20:30, 35Sfr.                                           innovative gastronomy in                 recently but they're definitely on      crowd of regulars to the Acapulco
     Concert starts 20:00, 50 - 75Sfr.                                                                                                                      the Langstrasse district, the            to something with their simple          bar (Neugasse 56, C-1) for no-
                                                                                                                                                            Josef (Gasometerstrasse 24,              concept – as the name says.             holds-barred karaoke, hosted
                                                                                                                                                            L-7) is still very popular with          An airy, comfortable bar with an        by tongue in cheek Sören. From
       Football in Zurich                                                                                                                                   locals. Forget starters and              emphasis on Swiss produce –             melancholic to mental, you can
                                                                                                                                                            main courses – just choose               wines, spirits, cheeses etc.            sing almost anything from the
       Well, the Swiss football league (Super League by name)                                                                                               two, three, or more dishes and                                                   world of pop and rock here.
       is probably not why you came to Zurich. The big football                                                                                             the order you want them in.
       stars definitely play elsewhere on the continent, and even
       many of the best Swiss players play abroad. But if you
       are a football enthusiast, a Swiss football match might                                                                               On the cheap   An easy barbecue at the                  Rock music lovers and football          Every year the international theatre
       nevertheless be worth your while. It can be a spectacle                                                                                              lake side: buy meat (e.g.                fans are a good indicator for           fe s t i va l Th e a t e r S p e k t a ke l
       as the best teams of the Super League attract between                                                                                                a ve r y S wi s s b ra twu rs t          where to find cheap beer. You           (p. 19) turns the Landiwiese on the
       15’000 and 28’000 spectators per match (the Zurich                                                                                                   sausage) and drinks at a                 will find all three at the slightly     western lake shore into a magical
       teams usually less though). Zurich has two football clubs                                                                                            supermarket (e.g. Coop at St-            alternative Mars bar (p. 42), just      village for two and a half weeks:
       that play in the Super League - the FC Zürich (commonly                                                                                              adelhofen station, open even             off Langstrasse.                        theatre stages, restaurants and
       referred to as FCZ (say ef tse tset) and the Grasshop-                                                                                               on Sundays) and walk along                                                       food stalls. And on every corner
       per Club (referred to as GC, say gay tsee)). Both clubs                                                                                              the lake towards Chinawiese                                                      artists give performances – if you
       have a long tradition and have won the championships                                                                                                 (p. 12, where you will find an                                                   don't want to buy a ticket, just
       as well as the cup many times. While the supporters of                                                                                               electric barbecue for free use                                                   enjoy the street theatre.
       FCZ traditionally were working class, GC is said to be an         The Coco Rosie sisters - somewhere far away from Zurich.                           (until 23:00).
       upper-class club. In recent years FCZ was more succes-                                                                         PD
       ful, but last season GC was the better Zurich team. Both
       teams play at the Letzigrund stadium, which was rebuilt           27.09 Friday                                                        Lads           The beer hall tradition builds           Zurich has its Irish pubs as well       Th e Swi s s f ootball lea gue
       in 2007 by architects Bétrix & Consolascio and with its           Bonobo                                                                             on the wonderful combination             and the Kennedy's (p. 44) is a          started again in July. So why not
       floating roof is worth a visit in itself (open Mon - Fri 09:00    Kaufleuten. His concerts are truly hypnotic, his music seems                       of beer in huge quantities               prime choice for ale, cider and big-    watch a game of one of the city's
       - 19:00, no admission). Unfortunately for football fans it        to hail from other spheres. Bonobo creates warm, organic,                          a c c o m pa n i e d b y e q u a l l y   screen sports – in a comfortable        football teams? Support either
       is a stadium for athletics too, which means you’re not            flowing electronic music. His new work The North Borders                           abundant solid food. The                 sitting position. If you come on a      FC Zurich or the Grasshopper
       that close to the action. The two clubs have been fighting        impresses with a distinctive groove, powerful beats and                            Rheinfelder Bierhalle (p.                Monday grab the open mic and            Club as they try to topple title
       for a real football stadium for more than a decade - and          melodic synthesizers, strings and harps. Q Concert starts                          39) is one of our favourites –           impress the crowd!                      defender FC Basel. They both play
       it finally may happen. A project has been chosen and if           20:00, 55-75Sfr.                                                                   hugely recommended!                                                              at Letzigrund stadium (see p. 22).
       everything goes well (a public vote will be held in autumn
       2013) the stadium should be finished in 2017.                     29.09 Sunday
                                                                                                                                             Couples        What better place to meet                The Corazon (p. 41) is the perfect      Fancy dancing? If you're into Latin
       Letzigrund Stadium , w w w.let,                        Leslie Clio                                                                        than Le Rendez-vous                      place for an afternoon glass of         moves – salsa, bachata, merengue
       Badenerstrasse 500, 8Letzigrund                                   Plaza. German singer Leslie Clio’s retro-soul feels very                           (p. 33)? This little restaurant          wine with your significant other        and more – make Salsamania
                                                                         authentic and convincing. Her star is just beginning to rise, so                   combines a friendly welcome              at the heart of Niederdorf. If a        (p. 44) at the club X-tra your choice.
       Football matches in August & September:                           catch her as long as you can. Q Concert starts 20:00, 35Sfr.                       with the French attention to             few glasses later you're still there,   Probably the largest latin dance
       August 4, 14:45             FCZ - BSC Young Boys                                                                                                     culinary details, whether you            maybe order some tapas too.             event in Zurich, every Thursday.
                                                                                                                                                            order one of the French fish
       August 10, 19:45            GC - FC Sion                          Comedy                                                                             specialities or a pizza.
       August 25, 16:00*           FCZ - FC Aarau
       September 22, 13:45*        GC - FC Thun
                                                                         05.08 Monday & 06.08 Tuesday
       September 25, 19:45*        FCZ - FC Aarau                        English Comedy: Michael Mittermaier                                 High end       The chef at the EquiTable                The Rive Gauche bar (p. 41)             If clubbing with a touch of luxury is
       September 28, 19:45*        GC - FC St. Gallen                    Kaufleuten. One of Germany’s most famous comedians,                                (p. 31) conjours up exquisite            with its cultured atmosphere            what you're after, the Kaufleuten
       October 5, 19:45*           FCZ - FC Luzern                       Michael Mittermeier does a show in English! The show                               molecular cuisine while still            and its sumptuous interior in           (p. 45) is your address. With
                                                                         is an insider’s guide to the Earth’s final frontier: the eerie                     paying full respect to the               polished wood is as elegant as          decades of history but a very up-
       * times and dates are subject to change, check website            yet fascinatingly dark landscape of the German soul - a                            flavours of the fine ingredients         the venerable Baur au lac hotel in      to-date international line up, this for latest news.                                mysterious place, where guilt, Schadenfreude and                                   he uses. And the ingredients             which it is located. In summer take     is one of the hot-spots of high-end
                                                                         Bratwurst reside. Q Shows start 20:00, 45Sfr.                                      aren' t just high quali t y –            your cocktail on the lovely terrace.    clubbing.
                                                                                                                                                            they're all from sustainable
                                                                                                                                                            sources, whether local or

        Zürcher Theater Spektakel                                                                                                            Unexpected

                                                                                                                                                            The Hiltl (p. 39) is a Zurich            Grab that old rock t-shirt of your's    Now, we know there are many
        15 August to 1 September 2013                                                                                                                       institution, a very popular              you thought you would never wear        lakes and rivers where swimming
                                                                                                                                                            restaurant with a bar that               again and head for the heavy-           is not advisable – but in Zurich
        Zurich: Landiwiese, Werft, Rote Fabrik                                                                                                              becomes a li vel y club at               metal bar KON-tiki (p.42). Take a       things are di f ferent. Both the
                                                                                                                                                            ni gh t – so you mi gh t b e             seat at the bar, ask for a chlöpfte     lake and the river are extremely
        Tickets:                                                                                                                    surprised when you realise               and watch the barmaide slam             clean and extremely popular for
                                                                                                                                                            that it's purely vegetarian.             down a fizzy drink in a shot glass.     swimming – everybody does it!
                                                                                                                                                            We recommend the buffet                  Down it while it's frothing and         For a whole list of swimming
                                                                                                                                                            for trying as many of these              don’t forget to order another one.      spots take a look at our summer
                                                                                                                                                            delights as possible.                                                            special (p. 12)

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                      August - September 2013
24         WHERE TO STAY                                                                                                                                                                                                   WHERE TO STAY                                             25

     Zurich is a business destination first and foremost               business district will impress you. The very spacious standard                                                                               Glärnischhof E-4, Claridenstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz,
     - and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to              rooms have full-height windows, free-standing sea-shell               Upmarket                                                               tel. +41 44 286 22 22, fax +41 44 286 22 86, info
     Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take           bathtubs, a B&O sound and TV system and more. As it’s just            Central Plaza F-2, Central 1, 8Central, tel. +41 44          ,
     advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the               a short walk to Bahnhofstrasse or to the lake, the Park Hyatt is      256 56 56, fax +41 44 256 56 57,,                      In the financial district and just off Bahnhofstrasse, the
     many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this,        just as good a choice for your business trip as it is for exploring Central is in the name, and central it is              Glärnischhof has classically decorated standard rooms
     accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real            Zurich. Needless to say there is a first-class restaurant             indeed. The old town starts right in front of the main entrance.       with blue or grey carpets, a desk and a red leather armchair.
     budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is           (parkhuus) and an upmarket bar (Onyx Bar) on the ground               With a tram junction next to the hotel, it’s not the quietest spot -   In the comfort category you get more space and a toilet
     something for any taste and almost any budget.                    floor, as well as a spa with sauna and steam bath. If a standard      but the triple glazing shuts out the city‘s noise. Standard rooms      separated from the bathroom. Guests have free entrance to
                                                                       room doesn’t quite match your needs, there are executive and          are rather small, but live up to the standard you can expect of        the Luxor Fitness Centre in the same building which includes
     In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with             deluxe rooms and suites with uncountable amenities. Q142              a hotel of this class. There is free Wi-fi and wired internet. Ask     a sauna, a solarium and a whirlpool. On the weekends you
     stars from one to five. The categorization is done by             rooms (singles 490 - 1050Sfr, 130 doubles 640 - 1200Sfr, 11           for a room with a view onto the river or one of the two-room           can book the junior suites as specially decorated Loverooms
     hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel     suites 1790 - 4400Sfr, 1 presidential suite 5500 - 6400Sfr).          junior suites. One of the suites even has a glass ceiling so you       for a romantic weekend with your beloved. On the ground
     can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating            PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhhh                                                    can watch the stars while you fall asleep. No air-conditioning         floor the Restaurant Le Poisson serves fish specialities.
     a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels                                                                               but an air cooling system. Fitness room, piano bar and King’s          Q62 rooms (11 singles 260 - 370Sfr, 48 doubles 340 -
     according to their official classification in the following       Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel Turbinenstrasse 20,                    Cave restaurant - known for its excellent sirloin - are in the         510Sfr, 3 junior suites 490 - 570Sfr). Breakfast & Wi-fi incl.
     categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Mid-            8Technoparkstrasse, tel. +41 44 630 30 30, fax +41 44                 building too. Q101 rooms (26 singles 260 - 395Sfr, 70 doubles          PJHAR6FLKW hhhh
     range*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification        630 33 33,,                   260 - 395Sfr, 9 suites 365 - 540Sfr). Breakfast from 18Sfr.
     we list pensions - usually small and with less services  This hotel opened in                  JHAR6UFLEKXW hhhh
     than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. The prices        August 2011 in the fast developing district Zurich West.
     indicated include VAT. The city tax is 2.50Sfr per night and      The 300 rooms on the 15 floors of the pentagonal tower                Courtyard by Marriott Zurich North N-1, Max-Bill-
     is usually additional.                                            all come with full-height windows with a dazzling view over           Platz 19, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 564 04 04, fax
                                                                       the ever-changing one-time industrial district. The rooms             +41 44 564 04 00,,
                                                                       have a more than respectable size, stylish dark parquet      Opened in 2006 in the new
                                                                       flooring and either one king-size bed or two doubles (1.40m           district north of Oerlikon train station and near the exhibition
                                                                       each). Aluminium prints of the industrial past of the district        centre, the Courtyard by Marriott is just five minutes by train
                                                                       hanging on the walls make a counterpoint to the classy dark           from the airport and seven from the city centre. Rooms have
                                                                       magenta easy-chairs and the standard lamps. There is a                either a king-size bed or two single ones and free tea and
                                                                       gym for your workout, a sauna, a restaurant and a bar - and           coffee. Thanks to the iron and ironing-board provided there’s
                                                                       room service of course. Q 300 rooms (78 singles, 222                  no excuse for turning up at tomorrow’s meeting with your suit
                                                                       doubles, 35 junior suites, 13 suites, 1 presidential suite,           looking anything but perfect. A small shop at the reception offers
                                                                       from 195Sfr to 565Sfr). PHAR6UFLKDW                                   sandwiches and drinks around the clock. The max-restaurant,
                                                                       international chain hotel                                             bar & lounge on the ground floor is a good place to start off
                                                                                                                                             your evening with an aperitif (free snacks with every drink Tue -
                                                                       The Dolder Grand J-3, Kurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof,                   Thu 17:30 - 19:00.). Q152 rooms (150 doubles 149 - 399Sfr,
                                                                       tel. +41 44 456 60 00, fax +41 44 456 60 01, info                     2 suites 374 - 564Sfr). Wi-fi and wired internet 28Sfr/24hrs,
                                                                       @thedoldergrand .com, www .thedoldergrand .com.                       breakfast from 22Sfr. PHARUFLKW hhhh
                                                                       Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand
                                                                       is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. British architect        Crowne Plaza Badenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund,
                                                                       Norman Foster added in 2008 two meandering wings to                   tel. +41 44 404 44 44, fax +41 44 404 44 40, info                      St. Peter as it’s been standing for three centuries - and
                                                                       the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899 with its turrets        @cpzurich .ch, www.cpzurich .ch. The Crowne Plaza is                   one or two newer buildings.                                 MV
                                                                       and balconies. The result is an amazing mix of modernity              situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13 minutes (8
                                                                       and tradition. And no matter in which part of the hotel you           stops) from the city centre by tram. The 365 rooms have all            Helmhaus F-4, Schifflände 30, 8 Helmhaus, tel.
     Zurich West’s new skyline, with the Renaissance Tower             book your room, the comfort and the amenities offered are             been completely refurbished in 2010 and now come in a mix              +41 44 266 95 95, fax +41 44 266 95 66, hotel
     hotel in the foreground.                                    AM    uncountable. Either modern design and generous floor-to-              of bright and light brown hues, with either a queen-size or  , Centrally located in a
                                                                       ceiling windows in the new wings or the sense of history in           two twin-size beds, a shower or a bathtub and free tea and             historic building near the Wasserkirche the (mostly) recently
                                                                       the main building. The sumptuous 4,000sqm in-house spa,               coffee making facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe for            renovated rooms of this small and personal hotel have
     Cream of the Crop                                                 the exquisite ballroom and art from Warhol to Dalì are just           more work space and a couch lounge. For lunch or dinner,               a classy starkness with dark wood floors, modern, sleek
     Eden au Lac F-6, Utoquai 45, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41              some of the elements that make this a truly extraordinary             the two in-house restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu              bathrooms and 19th century touches. The Superior Room
     44 266 25 25, fax +41 44 266 25 00,,            hotel. Q173 rooms (15 singles 540 - 690Sfr, 99 doubles                tend to your needs. Q 365 rooms (313 doubles 140 - 490Sfr,             category offers some extra space while the Design rooms on
     www.edenaulac .ch. Since 1909 the five-star Eden au               590 - 1070Sfr, 7 suites 1995 - 3890Sfr, 48 junior suites              2 suites 400 - 820Sfr, 9 Junior suites 310 - 710Sfr, 34                the fifth floor have an individual touch. Soundproof windows
     Lac has been the temporary home of some of Zurich‘s               840 - 1640Sfr, 4 topsuites, price upon request ). Breakfast           Deluxe rooms 250 - 650Sfr). Breakfast 33Sfr, Wi-fi incl.               that really deserve the name make sure you enjoy a good
     most distinguished guests. In a listed, Art-Nouveau style         46S fr, Wi-fi incl. P H A R 6 U F L K D C W                           PHAR6UFLBKW hhhh                                                       night’s sleep. Q24 rooms (8 singles 225 - 320Sfr, 16 doubles
     building, the hotel exudes a luxury old-world charm. As the       hhhhh                                                                                                                                        310 - 470Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi included. PJAW
     name suggests, the lake promenade is just across the                                                                                    Four Points by Sheraton Sihlcity B-6, Kalandergasse
     road. The rooms have high ceilings and tasteful furnishings.                                                                            1, 8 Sihlcity Nord, tel. +41 44 554 00 00, fax                         Holiday Inn Zurich Messe O-2, Wallisellenstrasse
     Many of them come with a balcony or a terrace looking out                                                                               +41 4 4 55 4 0 0 01 , sihlcity@f ourpoints .com,                       48, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. +41 44 316 11 00,
     onto the lake - with a view of the Alps, if visibility is good.     Symbol key                                                 This four-star hotel is housed             fax +41 44 316 11 01,, www.holidayinn.
     There are junior suites and suites with a separate room for                                                                             in what was once the warehouse of a 19th-century paper mill.           com/zurichmesse. The Holiday Inn opened in 2009 and
     your business meetings. For families, some rooms can be             P Air-conditioning             A Credit cards accepted              The listed columns and windows are subtly integrated into the          lies just opposite Zurich‘s biggest indoor concert and
     connected by means of an additional door in the entrance                                                                                architecture and give the hotel a distinct urban-industrial touch.     sports venue Hallenstadion and the exhibition grounds
     area. In the restaurant Eden chef Giuseppe Storniolo                T Child friendly               H Conference facilities              There are five different room types, all offering large showers,       in Zurich Nord. A good choice for your business trip. The
     definitely has more to offer than just his good reputation.         R Internet in room             U Facilities for the disabled        huge beds and flat screen TVs with internet access. Mineral            city centre is just 15 minutes away by tram. The rooms all
     Q50 rooms (singles 305 - 560Sfr, doubles 430 - 770Sfr,                                                                                  water, internet, national calls and coffee are included. The           feature dark parquet, Wi-fi, a kettle for free instant coffee
     business suite 1150Sfr). Breakfast 40Sfr, Wi-fi 6 Sfr/1hr,          F Fitness centre               L Parking on site                    Four Points Hotel is located in the recently opened shopping           and tea, a safe and a TV. Of course one wall is painted
     26Sfr/24hrs. PJHAR6ULKDW hhhhh                                      K Restaurant                   8 Nearest tram station               mall Sihlcity which includes a multiplex cinema, restaurants           in the Holiday Inn‘s trademark bright green. If you prefer
                                                                                                                                             and excellent connections to the city centre and the lake by           more space, a real coffee machine and a minibar, ask for
     Park Hyatt Zurich D-5, Beethoven-Strasse 21,                        D Sauna                        C Swimming pool                      tram and train (8 min). The Asia Spa is located in the same            an executive room. There is a gym, a bar and a restaurant
     8Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 43 883 12 34, fax +41 43                  6 Animal friendly              W Wi-fi connection                   building and offers discounted entry for hotel guests. Q132            on the ground floor, and room service. Q164 rooms (164
     883 12 35,,                                                                                 rooms (singles 219 - 449Sfr, doubles 219 - 449Sfr, suites              doubles 149 - 299Sfr). Breakfast 28Sfr, Wi-fi included.
     The luxury Park Hyatt built in 2004 in the middle of Zurich’s       J City centre location                                              349 - 679Sfr). PHAR6ULKW hhhh                                          PHAR6UFLKW hhhh

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                    August - September 2013
26           WHERE TO STAY                                                                                                                                                                                                        WHERE TO STAY                                          27

     Leonardo Boutique Hotel Rigihof G-1,                                           St. Gotthard E-2, Bahnhofstr. 87, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB,               area is very central (five minutes walk to the main train
     Universitätstrasse 101, 8 Winkelriedstrasse, tel.                              tel. +41 44 227 77 00, fax +41 44 227 77 50, reservation@           station). This doesn‘t make it the quietest of places, but the      Meet the concierges
     +41 44 360 12 00, fax +41 44 360 12 07, info.zurich                            hotelstgot thard .ch, w w w .hotelstgot thard .ch.                  windows are soundproof. Most rooms have air-conditioning., www.leonardo-hotels .com.                                From many of the rooms of this traditional family-run hotel         The Alexander also has a two-star guest house around the
     Located in the university district, the modern rooms of the                    you get a view straight onto Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s most          corner. Q41 rooms (5 singles 150 - 200Sfr, 32 doubles
     4-star Rigihof all have a hardwood floor, a desk, a safe                       famous shopping street. Perfect for watching the hustle and         210 - 300Sfr, 4 triples 230 - 320Sfr). Breakfast included,
     and a kettle for making tea and coffee. There are both                         bustle. The rooms are decorated modern with bright yellow           free Wi-fi. PJALW hhh
     twin and double beds available. The superior rooms are                         and golden colours. All of them feature a kettle for coffee and
     more spacious than the standards and have a balcony,                           tea. There is a sauna and a massage room for your recreation.       Bristol         Stampfenbachstrasse 34,
     so you can catch some afternoon and evening sun. As                            The in-house Hummer bar serves seafood in a traditional,            8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. +41 44 258 44 44, fax +41 44
     the tram stops right at the front door the city centre is                      elegant atmosphere. The lobby restaurant and the Manzoni            258 44 00,,
     only minutes away. The tram also connects directly to the                      coffee bar with its outdoor seating make this hotel just two        The Bristol is just a 5-minute walk from the main train
     airport. There is a restaurant on the ground floor. Note                       minutes from the main train station complete. Q138 rooms            station. That means all the city’s central sights are in
     there is no air-conditioning. Q rooms (12 singles 135 -
                                     76                                             (31 singles 158 - 421Sfr, 99 doubles 192 - 529Sfr, 8 suites         walking distance. The rooms here are modern and simple:
     330Sfr, 28 doubles 160 - 355Sfr, 20 triples 185 - 380Sfr,                      375 - 1078Sfr). PJHAR6LBKDW hhhh                                    they all have a wooden floor, a flat-screen TV and come
     7 suites 210 - 405Sfr). Breakfast 22Sfr, Wi-fi 20Sfr/24hrs.                                                                                        with either a single, a grand lit or two single beds. There
     HA6ULBKW                                                                                                                                           are also rooms with three and four beds - ideal for families.
                                                                                                                                                        Note there is no air-conditioning. Q56 rooms (13 singles
     Novotel Zürich City-West K-6, Schiffbaustrasse                                                                                                     120 - 200Sfr, 22 doubles 150 - 280Sfr, 10 triples 200 -
     13, 8Technoparkstrasse, tel. +41 44 276 22 00, fax                                                                                                 350Sfr, 11 quads 250 - 400Sfr). Breakfast incl., free Wi-fi.
     +41 44 276 22 99,, www.novotel                                                                                                     JHAR6W                                                              The receptionists and concierges of the city’s hotels are
     .com/2731. The classic Novotel experience: the modern                                                                                                                                                                  an important source of information for travellers.In this
     business rooms feature a double bed, a mini-bar, a                                                                                                 Du Théâtre F-3, Seilergraben 69, 8Central, tel.                     issue Anja Graf (26 y.o.) and Gerardo Doppietta (43
     bathtub or shower and a free dataport and Wi-fi for your                                                                                           +41 44 267 26 70, fax +41 44 267 26 71, info@                       y.o.) share some of their experience and secrets about
     laptop. A room can accommodate up to two adults and                                                                                      , This                  the city with us. Both have been working as concierges at
     two children up to 16 years old (on the pull-out sofa)                                                                                             three-star design hotel is located very centrally, at the           the four-star hotel Crowne Plaza Zurich for a year now.
     for one standard price. The Novotel is located in Zurich                                                                                           beginning of the Niederdorf old-town district. The building
     West, a hip district with many restaurants, clubs and                                                                                              has an irregular shape, giving each room a different layout.        What do you like best about your job?
     bars - all within walking distance. The new tram stops                                                                                             The actors’ quotes woven into the carpets and pictures              Every day is totally different, with new experiences and
     just next to the hotel and takes you to the centre in 10                                                                                           from the one-time theatre next door (now a cinema) recall           encounters with different people and cultures.
     minutes. Hardbrücke train station with many connections                                                                                            the building‘s past in an interesting way. The rooms are
     to the airport is just one stop away. There is also a small                                                                                        rather small, but elegant. Soundproof windows. Q50                  What do you personally like about Zurich?
     swimming pool for a relaxing swim after an exhausting                                                                                              rooms (31 singles 135 - 205Sfr, 17 doubles 205 - 295Sfr,            We like the lake and the fact that even from the city
     day. Q144 rooms (139 doubles 159 - 300Sfr, 5 suites                                                                                                2 mini-suites 265 - 360Sfr). Breakfast 200Sfr, free Wi-fi.          centre you can be in the woods or among the fields in no
     259 - 450Sfr). Breakfast 29Sfr, free Wi-fi and wired internet.                                                                                     JA6ULBKW hhh                                                        time, where you can relax and forget the daily rush. We
     PTHAR6UFLBKCW hhhh                                                                                                                                                                                                     also very much appreciate the excellent public transport
                                                                                                                                                        L a dy’s F ir st G - 6, Mainaustrasse 24,                           network which works until late at night.
     RAMADA Hotel Zürich City Badenerstrasse 537,                                                                                                       8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 380 80 10, fax +41
     8Freihofstrasse, tel. +41 44 437 99 00, zuerich                                The guild house Zur Waag on Münsterhof - still a very               44 380 80 20,,                What is not to miss in Zurich? Especially in summer?
     @ramada -tref, The                                 elegant address.                           Zurich Tourism (CM)      This small hotel is situated in an elegant 19th-century villa       The lake of course! Whether you set out on a pedalo, go
     Ramada is situated next to the Letzigrund sports stadium,                                                                                          in the Seefeld district, not far from the shores of Lake Zurich.    strolling along the Seefeld lakeshore enjoying a tasty
     a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre. It was opened                      NEW                                                                 The rooms have retained much of their original charm, the           ice cream or spend an evening at the openair cinema
     in February 2011 and offers 4star comfort at reasonable                        Wellenberg F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 10, 8Rudolf-                      high ceilings and wooden panelling blended with modern              at Zürichhorn – it’s just pure summer bliss. A pleasant
     prices. The huge flowers on the wallpaper give the modern                      Brun Brücke, tel. +41 43 888 44 44, fax +41 43 888                  furnishings to make for a very light, special atmosphere. On        walk through the old town is also an absolute must, in
     rooms a fresh touch. The Business rooms offer free                             44 45,, www.hotel                   the top floor there is a sauna and wellness area which is for       summer or winter.
     use of a capsule coffee machine. There is an exercise                 Most of the rooms at the Wellenberg have            women only - as is the roof-top terrace. The hotel is run by        Which restaurants and bars do you recommend?
     room, a sauna and the Restaurant La Terrasse with a                            recently been refurbished and now sport beds and curtains           a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women          Restaurant Korner makes the best burgers in town!
     nice garden. All rooms are non-smoking, but a smokers’                         in bright, warm colours, dark wooden floors and arty pictures       an opportunity to work. Q28 rooms (7 singles 230 - 305Sfr,          Nearer to the Crowne Plaza we recommend the Turbinen-
     lounge is located at the Lobby-bar. Q159 rooms (1                              on the walls. Located in the middle of Niederdorf, Zurich’s         17 doubles 290 - 395Sfr, 3 triples). Breakfast 18Sfr, Wi-fi         halle which scores points with creative, fresh cuisine, a
     single 169 - 310Sfr, 155 doubles 169 - 310Sfr, 3 junior                        historic heart, it’s only a few minutes’ walk to the main station   included. iA6ULDW                                                   cosy atmosphere and delicious desserts.
     suites 360 - 390Sfr). Breakfast 28Sfr, Wi-fi included.                         and to the shopping street of world renown, Bahnhofstrasse.
     PHAR6UFLBKDW hhhh                                                              Dozens of restaurants eager for your custom are close by,           Seegarten G-6, Seegartenstrasse 14, 8Kreuzstrasse,                  What makes the Crowne Plaza special?
                                                                                    but closer still are the in-house Brasserie Louis and the Tina      tel. +41 44 388 37 37, fax +41 44 383 37 38, contact                The Crowne Plaza team is extremely friendly and happy
     Sorell Zürichberg J-1, Orellistrasse 21, 8Zoo,                                 bar. Soundproof windows should make sure you get only the , Literally              to help. We offer our guests exceptional service and a
     tel. +41 44 268 35 35, fax +41 44 268 35 45, info                              advantages of the location. Lovely terrace for breakfast or         just a stone’s throw from the lake, the cosy Seegarten in the       warm and friendly environment in the business world.
     @ z u e r i c h b e r g . c h , w w w . z u e r i c h b e r g . c h . Th i s   an afternoon break. Q45 rooms (8 singles 230 - 310Sfr, 27           Seefeld district offers rooms in different sizes, all with king-
     architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the edge of                      doubles 255 - 395Sfr, 7 triples 290 - 420Sfr, 3 junior suites       size beds. The wooden or terracotta floors give the rooms           Zurich In Your Pocket is...
     the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram from the main                    340 - 495Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. JHA6UKW                    a Mediterranean touch, the red sofas and the standard-              ... a great help when advising guests. As a new edition of
     railway station and the lake. The view up here is thrilling,                   hhhh                                                                lamps make for a homely atmosphere. On the ground floor,            the guide is released every two months we’ve often found
     with the city, the lake and the crests of the Alps all visible                                                                                     the Restaurant Latino beckons with fine Italian cuisine and         it very useful for cultural happenings and other events.
     from the generous veranda. The hotel is a combination of                                                                                           lovely outdoor seating. Note there is no-air conditioning.
     two different parts, a splendid Jugendstil building and a                      Mid-range                                                           Q24 rooms (10 singles 195 - 265Sfr, 13 doubles 295 -
     spiral annex in contemporary design by Zurich architects                       Alexander F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 40, 8Rudolf-Brun-                  325Sfr, 1 Junior suite 365Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi included.      All rooms have parquet floor, soundproof windows and some
     Burkhalter & Sumi. Rooms are modern and brightly coloured                      Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 82 03, fax +41 44 252 74 25,                A6LBKW hhh                                                         also have a balcony. The grand-lit rooms feature beds with
     and all come with Nespresso coffee machines. The in-house            ,                                                                                       a width of 1.6 metres and can be used by two for a small
     restaurant R21 offers French cuisine with a Swiss touch.                       The Alexander is an intimate three-star hotel with newly            Sorell Seefeld G- 6, Seefeldstrasse 63,                            surcharge; real double rooms are larger. There is a gym,
     No air-conditioning. Q66 rooms (23 singles 220 - 390Sfr,                       renovated rooms (February 2012). They now come with                 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 387 41 41, fax +41 44                 room service and a tram stop right on your door-step. No
     35 doubles 350 - 460Sfr, 8 Espace rooms 550 - 590Sfr).                         dark wooden flooring and sand-coloured bathrooms with               387 41 51,,              air-conditioning, but an air cooling system. Q64 rooms (15
     Breakfast and Wi-fi included. HA6ULBKW                                         LED lights. They also have a safe, a flat-screen TV and free        The Seefeld is a fully equipped three-star superior hotel          singles 165 - 280Sfr, 49 doubles 225 - 300Sfr). Breakfast
     hhhh                                                                           Wi-fi throughout. The location in the Niederdorf nightlife          located just 200 metres from the lake in the Seefeld district.     included, Wi-fi included. HA6FLW hhh

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                          August - September 2013
28          WHERE TO STAY                                                                                                                                                                                              RESTAURANTS                                               29

                                                                        Zu m G u te n G lü ck B - 3 , S t a t i o n s s t r a s s e 7,    Zurich has around 1,500 restaurants, bars and
     Budget                                                             8 Kalkbreite, tel. +41 43 5 40 72 99, contact                     takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of                    Symbol key
     NEW                                                                @zumgutenglueck .ch, www .zumgutenglueck .ch.                     food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional               A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge
     H o t t i n ge n G/H - 3, Hottingerstrasse 31 ,                    Opened in 2008, this lovely pension offers basic rooms with       Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again.
     8 Hottingerplatz, tel. +41 4 4 256 19 19, f ax                     shared showers and bathrooms and sixties and seventies            But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange,                     S Take away                  E Live music
     + 4 1 4 4 25 6 1 9 0 0, i n f o@h o te l h o t t i n ge n .c h ,   style furniture. Check-in is at the coffee bar on the ground      international style and are not easily categorized.                    J City centre location       N No credit cards
     www .hotelhottingen .ch. This two-star hotel was                   floor. The next tram stop is close by and the tram takes          Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we
     completely refurbished in 2011 and offers functional, well         eight minutes to get to the main train station. Recently new      recommend within any particular category. The prices in                8 Nearest tram station       C-1 Map coordinates
     designed rooms with wooden floors and bright colours. The          shops and bars have opened in the area, as a major road had       brackets indicate the cheapest and most expensive main                 B Outdoor seating
     high ceilings make for a comfortable, spacious room feeling.       been closed to transit traffic. Good choice if you are looking    courses. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals,
     Besides single and double rooms there are rooms for three          for cheap accommodation. Q10 rooms (2 singles 59Sfr, 8            usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants
     or even four guests. Most rooms have private bathrooms             doubles 79 - 109Sfr). Wi-fi included. AKW                         close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30
     with showers, all of them feature a flatscreen TV. There is                                                                          and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. In July and August,             Popcorn (Hotel Neufeld) A- 4, Friesenbergstr.
     a fully equipped small kitchen on every floor which you can                                                                          some restaurants close down for a few weeks. We                       15, 8 Goldbrunnenplatz, tel. +41 43 960 73 73,
     use to prepare a meal or tea and coffee. The old town and          Hostels                                                           have indicated this wherever possible. The letter and        The rear half of a classic
     the lake are in walking distance (10 - 15 minutes), tram stop      Youth Hostel Mutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental,                  the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the               American automobile next to the entrance of the Popcorn
     just next to the hotel. Q32 rooms (6 singles 95 - 155Sfr, 16       tel. +41 43 399 78 00, fax +41 43 399 78 01, zuerich              coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this             says it all - this is an American diner. But the menu is a bit
     doubles 125 - 240Sfr, 6 triples 210 - 280Sfr, 3 quads 300 -        @youthhostel .ch, This                 guide.                                                                more sophisticated than you might expect: classic and spicy
     340Sfr, 1 apartment 210 - 320Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi incl.       modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with                                                                                    tatar, home-made pasta or Indian lamb curry. But don’t worry:
     JA6ULW hh                                                          bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms                                                                                     a burger with fries is available as well. For lunch, the menu
                                                                        have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin                                                                                  changes daily. The old American cars are present inside the
                                                                        are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There                                                                               restaurant as well - on huge black and white photo posters.
                                                                        are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite                                                                               Daily breakfast buffet (06:00 - 10:00, Sun & Sat 07:00 -
                                                                        bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (18.50Sfr                                                                                 11:00). Q Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat & Sun breakfast only
                                                                        incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and                                                                         (07:00 - 11:30), kitchen open 12:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 21:30.
                                                                        15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus                                                                               (15 - 32Sfr). AB
                                                                        (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great
                                                                        place to meet other travellers. Q rooms (16 doubles
                                                                        138Sfr, 50 triples 158 - 173Sfr, 200 beds in 4- or 6-bed                                                                                Asian
                                                                        rooms 40 - 50Sfr). Hostelling International membership                                                                                  Anthony’s Kitchen L-7, Quellenstrasse 49, tel. +41
                                                                        required: a day’s membership 6Sfr, yearly member card                                                                                   43 539 76 79, www.anthonyskitchen .ch. The only
                                                                        33Sfr. Linen, breakfast and city tax included, Wi-fi free in                                                                            weak point we could find here were some minor spelling
                                                                        public area. HAUKW                                                                                                                      mistakes on the menu. The food, the atmosphere and the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                service at this Asian restaurant where Filipino Anthony is
                                                                        City Backpacker (Hotel Biber) F-3,                                                                                                      the chef are really great. Anthony’s wife Julia will be happy
                                                                        Niederdorfstrasse 5, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 251 90 15,             Arriving by public transport is also permitted - the                  to tell you their their own little love story too. We went
                                                              ,                 Popcorn.                                                        PD    for the menu surprise (85Sfr) - and the surprise was all
                                                                        This is the only hostel-style place in the city centre - and                                                                            positive, believe us. Don’t miss the absolutely delicious
                                                                        probably some of the cheapest accommodation in town.                                                                                    Dim Sum (steamed stuffed pastry). Q Open Tue - Fri
     The Napfbrunnen in the Oberdorf district, one of Zurich’s          The City Backpacker is situated on the third floor of an old      American                                                              11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed
     many fountains.                            building in the Niederdorf party area - with no elevator. The     Helvti Diner D-3, Kasernenstrasse 2, 8Stauffacher, tel.               Sun & Mon. (28 - 34Sfr). AB
                                                                        six-person dorms consist of three bunk beds, small lockers        +41 43 322 04 24, Quarterpounders,
     Limmathof              F-2, Limmatquai 142,                        for your valuables and a sink. There are also very basic          hot dogs, sandwiches, French fries and some salads - the menu         Lily’s C-1, Langstrasse 197, 8 Limmatplatz, tel.
     8 Central, tel. +41 44 267 60 40, fax                              private rooms. Showers and toilets are shared. There is a         of the Helvti Diner has a distinctly American flavour. But it’s not   +41 44 440 18 85, www.lilys .ch. Freshly prepared
     + 4 1 4 4 2 6 2 0 2 17, i n f o @ l i m m a t h o f . c o m ,      communal kitchen and a recreation room. Latest check-in           just the menu; the long bar and the aluminum stools conjour           Asian treats: from Thailand through Vietnam to China and The Limmathof is centrally located              22:00 - no exceptions. Q (singles 77Sfr, doubles 118Sfr,          up some prototypical hollywood film scene. A screen made of           Japan, and back to India. Not exactly the place for a long,
     at the entrance to Niederdorf, close to the main train             triples 159Sfr, quads 196Sfr, dorm beds 37Sfr). City tax          ketchup bottles adds a fancy touch - as well as the dark red          cosy dinner with your friends but great for a quick, fresh and
     station and most of Zurich‘s sights. The rooms are plain           included, bed sheets in dorms 3Sfr. JA                            and purple tones of the tables and stools. The burgers come           tasty meal - you’ll be seated on long benches in between
     and the furniture is a little long in the tooth - but all clean                                                                      with a sauce of your choice and were in the best of taste at          other customers. If you get a seat close to the open kitchen
     with nice wooden floors and soundproof windows. There is                                                                             our visit - while the consistency of the fries left some room for     you feel the heat when the chef flames some stuff in his
     a TV and a shower or a bathtub in every room. Wi-fi can be           Airport hotel                                                   improvement. All day brunch on Sat. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00,             wok. Try one of the curries Lily’s is famous for. Q Open
     used for free in the common area. Not a modern hotel, but                                                                            Fri & Sat 10:00 - 02:00, closed Sun. Kitchen open until 23:00.        11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:30.
     quite cheap for its location. Q55 rooms (16 singles 125 -            Best Western Hotel Airport Oberhauserstrasse                    (16 - 33Sfr). JA                                                      (19 - 23Sfr). AS
     145Sfr, 35 doubles 148 - 175Sfr, 4 triples 180 - 210Sfr).            30, Glattbrug g, tel. +41 44 809 47 47, fax
     Breakfast 10Sfr, free Wi-fi in the lobby. JA6K hh                    +41 44 809 47 74, airport@welcomegroup .ch,
                                                                          www.hotel-airport .ch. Located in Glattbrugg, one
     Pensions                                                             of the municipalities surrounding the airport, the Best
                                                                          Western Airport is convenient if you’re doing business in
     Für Dich B-2, Stauffacherstrasse 141,                                this area. The free shuttle bus takes you to the airport
     8Bäckeranlage, tel. +41 76 583 71 17/+41 43 317                      within minutes. The rooms feature a desk, minibar, a
     91 60,, The ‘For                safe and a kettle for tea or coffee. Get a room on the
     You’ pension has six tastefully furnished rooms opposite             top floor with a private terrace - nice for lying back after
     the park Bäckeranlage, just off Langstrasse. The rooms               a busy day. The two in-house restaurants are dedicated
     are quite spacious and most of them feature a TV, a lounge           to Japanese and European cuisine - in the Fujiya of
     table and easy chairs, some even have a balcony. Shower              Japan the cooks prepare your teppanyaki meal right at
     and toilet are shared between three rooms. The café Für              your table. There is ventilation in the rooms but no air-
     Dich downstairs serves breakfast on weekends and is also             conditioning. Q44 rooms (17 singles 99 - 205Sfr, 27                   Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and
     a good place for a drink. Good for exploring urban Zurich a          doubles 120 - 250Sfr). Breakfast 16Sfr, Wi-fi incl., free
     little away from the centre. Q12 rooms (singles 75 - 110Sfr,
                                                                                                                                                night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or
                                                                          car parking. HAR6LKW hhhh
     doubles 110 - 135Sfr). AW

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                 August - September 2013
30        RESTAURANTS                                                                                                                                                                               RESTAURANTS                                  31

                                                          Ly’s Asia E-4, Zahnradstr. 21, 8Schiffbau, tel. +41              Tao’s E-4, Augustinergasse 5, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
      Decoding the menu                                   44 999 08 08, Ly’s Asia, part of the            +41 44 448 11 22, Some call
                                                          Prime Tower complex, is actually three restaurants in one:       Tao’s cuisine Eurasian - we don’t bother categorising it and
      General terms                                       a take away with bar-type seating, a restaurant and a fine       just state that the dishes - whether it’s the chilli-coriander
      Käse                   cheese                       dining section. We chose the restaurant part in the former       risotto or the Tao-te-king burger - are definitely tasty, though
      Knoblauch              garlic                       industrial hall. The menu ranges from Thailand to Malaysia,      on the pricey side. They serve a hot stone grill with chicken
      paniert                breaded                      Japan and China. Our Gaeng Kiew green curry for example          or beef teriyaki as well as a lot of seafood and a remarkable
      Pfeffer                pepper
                                                          was served fast, full of flavours and just as spicy as we like   lime pie for dessert. Tao’s lies in the middle of the old town
      Rahm                   cream
      Salz                   salt                         it. In the take away section, there is less choice and dishes    and features a bar/lounge and an even more exquisite fine
      Senf                   mustard                      are cheaper as orders have to be placed at the bar. The          dining area called Asia on the first floor. On the weekend
      Zucker                 sugar                        fine dining is entirely dedicated to high-end Chinese cuisine.   you can party after dinner in the house’s own club Icon - ask
                                                          Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00.          your waiter for free entry. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.
      Fleisch                Meat                         Take away 10:00 - 23:00, Sun closed. (18 - 48Sfr). AS            (28 - 55Sfr). JABX
      Braten                 roast
      Bratwurst              sausage                                                                                       White Elephant E-1, Neumühlequai 42, 8Beckenhof,
      Ente                   duck                                                                                 One of the better Thai restaurants
      Hackbraten             meatloaf                                                                                      in Zurich, the White Elephant in the hotel Marriott serves
      Kalb                   veal (or calf)                                                                                a broad selection of Thai dishes: spring rolls, salads with
      Lamm                   lamb                                                                                          papaya, water spinach or tofu and curries with duck, beef
      Poulet, Hühnchen       chicken                                                                                       or chicken or fully vegetarian, just to name a few. The
      Rind                   beef                                                                                          atmosphere is calm, well-mannered and international, and a
      Schnitzel              cutlet, often breaded                                                                         greeting in English is standard. A little Thai island where the
      Schwein                pork                                                                                          chefs really know what they’re doing. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00,
      Truthahn               turkey
                                                                                                                           18:00 - 22:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (32 - 54Sfr). JA
      Ghackets               mince meat
      Geschnetzeltes         meat in bite-size pieces

      Leber(li)              liver

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                043 888 66 66
      Fisch                  Fish
                                                                                                                           Freudenhaus H-5, Zollikerstrasse 6, 8Kreuzplatz,
      Egli                   European perch                                                                                tel. +41 43 488 63 59. This can be said without
                                                                                                                           reservation: we really liked the food in this newly opened

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Near to
      Forelle                trout
      Felchen                common whitefish                                                                              Austrian restaurant. The kitchen has ambitions, as the
      Lachs                  salmon                                                                                        amuse-bouche suggested. The classic wienerschnitzel
                                                                                                                           (breaded veal cutlet) with cranberries was big, thin and
      Beilagen               Side dishes                                                                                   very tasty and came with a (too) small portion of potato
      Aubergine              aubergine, egg plant                                                                          salad. The kaiserschmarrn (a caramelised pancake with
      Blumenkohl             cauliflower                                                                                   fruit compote) we had for dessert was not too sweet and
      Bratkartoffeln         roast potatoes                                                                                rounded the meal off nicely. The drawback really was the
      Brötchen               bread roll
                                                          A quiet spot in the Tao’s garden.                          PD    service: overstrained, it was simply not quite what we would
      Erbsen                 peas                                                                                          expect in a place in this price range.QOpen 11:30 - 14:30,
      Kartoffeln             potatoes                                                                                      18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun & Mon closed.
      Nudeln                 pasta                        NEW                                                              (schnitzel 44Sfr). A
      Pilze                  mushrooms                    Saigon D-3, Sihlstrasse 97, 8Stauffacher, tel. +41
      Pommes Frites          french fries, potato chips
                                                          44 210 05 85, Cuisine from southern
      Spargel                asparagus
                                                          Vietnam is what the Saigon majors on. They of course have        Fine dining
      Spätzli                egg noodles
      Speck                  bacon                        the traditional pho soup either with beef, shrimps, chicken,     Au Premier E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof,
      Zwiebeln               onion                        fish or tofu. There is also a huge choice of rice and noodle     tel. +41 44 217 15 55, The central
                                                          dishes, as well as salads, some originating from other Asian     location in the main building of the main train station is
      Dessert                Desserts                     countries. You will be seated on long tables and usually         just one advantage of the Au Premier. Another is the fine
      Apfelstrudel           apple pie                    served quickly. For dessert we took a ché (based on beans)       international food with a Swiss touch they do here. We
      Berliner               doughnut                     with banana and coconut milk. We liked it, precisely because     enjoyed the evening menu (choose any three courses, 69Sfr):
      (Schokoladen) Kuchen   (chocolate) cake             at first it tastes somewhat peculiar to a Western tongue.        the aspargus soup was delicate, the bison filet tender and the
      Tiramisu               Italian cream dessert        Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun closed.             chocolate mousse with ginger a suprisingly good match. The
                                                          (17 - 26Sfr). JA                                                 adequate service was a match as well. The inconspicuous
                                                                                                                           entrance is in the passage from the large main hall towards
                                                                                                                           Bahnhofstrasse. They have a Swedish summer buffet from
                                                                                                                           July to mid-September. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 -
                                                                                                                           23:30, Sat & Sun closed. Bar open 08:00 - 23:30. JA

                                                                                                                                                                                              smaklig måltid!
                                                                                                                           E q u i Ta b l e ( i m S a n k t M e i n r a d ) B - 2 ,
                                                                                                                           Stauffacherstrasse 163, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. +41                    swedish summer buffet
                                                                                                                           43 534 82 77, www.equi-table .ch. Sustainability is                at zurich mainstation.
                                                                                                                           a big issue here. The chef uses ingredients which are
                                                                                                                           seasonal, organic and local or from fair trade - to create         july 2nd to september 14th 2013
                                                                                                                           molecular cuisine. A refreshing balance of artificial and
                                                                                                                           ethical. The small but enticing menu offers as many
                                                                                                                           options for vegetarians as for meat or fish eaters. Despite                          tel +41 44 217 15 15
                                                                                                                           the precise explanations from our charming Austrian                        
                                                                                                                           host, each course was a delightful guessing game: Is that
                                                                                                                           oregano in there? Where did they put the raspberries?

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                     August - September 2013
32           RESTAURANTS                                                                                                                                                                                                                        RESTAURANTS                                          33

                                                                                        The transformed inputs reveal unimagined taste potentials:               NEW                                                                finish off with some Italian cheese. But no matter what you
      Quick eats                                                                        the nano-thin shavings of hazelnut were a revelation in                  Le Rendez-vous D-5, Seestrasse 3, 8Tunnelstrasse,                  choose, if you like Italian food, we‘re convinced you will be
                                                                                        themselves. All the way from the hors d’oeuvre to the                    tel. +41 44 201 24 20,              more than pleased with what you get. The service is good,

                                                                      ©Hin & Weg Gare
                                                                                        complimentary palette of dessert miniatures served with the              ch. They really know how to charm you à la française here!         waiters are smart and friendly and the atmosphere is not
                                                                                        coffee, this is inspired gastronomy. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00,               The welcome is warm, the service friendly and attentive and        exactly quiet but all the more Italian. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30,
                                                                                        18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00, Sun closed. (3 courses                 the day’s menu is written on a small blackboard and brought        Sun 17:30 - 23:00. Nonstop kitchen until 22:00, Sun 21:30
                                                                                        for 80Sfr to 6 courses for 130Sfr). AB                                   to your table. The food is a good match too: the gazpacho          (29 - 68Sfr). JAB
                                                                                                                                                                 we took as starter was refreshing, the ravioli a delight and
                                                                                        Lindenhofkeller E-3, Pfalzgasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel.                        the mixed fish platter (assiette de la mer) more than lived        Commercio G-5, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen,
                                                                                        +41 44 211 70 71, Slightly                       up to the expectations. The tables here are not set as close       tel. +41 44 250 59 30, While the
                                                                                        hidden on the walk up to the Lindenhofplatz in the old town              as elsewhere, the mirrors on the wall make the place look          heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante
                                                                                        lies the Lindenhofkeller in the cellar vault of a house built in         bigger than it is and they have outdoor seating. Definitely        brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming
                                                                                        1357. The cooking here is creative-conservative, based on                recommended! Q Open 10:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat              way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also to the
                                                                                        French cuisine. The speciality is roast Swiss ’prime’ rack               & Sun closed. (28 - 54Sfr, pizze 18 - 30Sfr). JAB                  visitors of the studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by
                                                                                        of veal cooked at low temperature - indeed a remarkably                                                                                     Art Deco elements and black and white photos of Italian film
                                                                                        tasty cut of meat. The Lindenhofkeller’s wine list is 27 pages                                                                              stars, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy
                                                                                        long - don’t hesitate to ask for a recommendation to match                                                                                  a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a
                                                                                        your dish and taste. Lovely summer terrace in the courtyard.                                                                                fine art. With a cinema ticket from arthouse cinemas you get
      Not surprisingly, there are plenty of options for a quick                         Q Open 11:45 - 15:00, 18:15 - 23:45. Closed Sat & Sun.                                                                                      a price reduction for some dishes. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00,
      eat in Zurich, be it a speedy dinner or a snack on a tour                         Kitchen open until 21:30. Closed July 14 - August 4. (43 -                                                                                  Fri & Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (18 - 48Sfr). JAB
      through the city’s nightlife. The Turkish kebab and its                           73Sfr). JAB
      variations are probably the most popular fast food and                                                                                                                                                                        Commihalle F-2, Stampfenbachstrasse 8, 8Central,
      can literally be found everywhere. If you want something                          Ristorante Bianchi F-3, Limmatquai 82, 8Rudolf-                                                                                             tel. +4 1 4 4 25 0 5 9 6 0, w w w .co m mer cio .ch.
      more local, go for a grilled bratwurst or a cervelat                              Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 262 98 44, www.ristorante                                                                                          Tucked away in a side street behind Central, the Commihalle
      (both Swiss sausages). Besides that are many Asian                       The Bianchi is one of the city’s few dedicated                                                                                 is a fast, no-fuss local favourite. The menu features all you
      take-aways, as well as the big American burger joints                             fish restaurants. Despite the River Limmat flowing past                                                                                     can expect from an Italian restaurant, and just a little more,
      McDonalds’ and Burger King of course. We list some of                             almost in front of the restaurant, little of the fish is from                                                                               at very reasonable prices. Most of the pasta is freshly made
      our favourites for you:                                                           there. That said, trout, perch and others are from Swiss                                                                                    and you can tell. They also have two all-you-can-eat options.
                                                                                        production and much of the rest is from sustainable catch                                                                                   The spaghetti gala with six different sauces is simple and
      Hiltl Take Away (PflanzBar at Blumen Krämer)                                      or farming. Whole fish can be chosen from the iced display                                                                                  very good value (min. 3 people). The tavolata offers that
      D-4, Talstrasse 62, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 44 225                                 counter. With white tablecloths and a massive marble                                                                                        much more: a rich buffet of starters, set meat and pasta
      95 85, Yes, this is actually                               fountain, this is fine-dining al italiano, with all the little details                                                                      dishes for mains and then another buffet for desert. Maybe
      a flower shop. But in between the flowerpots they have                            to make you feel pampered: a welcome appetiser, a choice                 Mellow tones at Mère Catherine’s - but sitting outside is          take a long walk first? Jazz concerts once a month. Q Open
                                                                                        of breads and concentrated, generous staff. The cooking                  even better.                                                 PD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    09:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (17 - 40Sfr). JA
      set up a bar where you can sip a coffee or other drinks,
      peeking through the leaves and blossoms. At lunchtime                             deserves equal praise, delicately balanced, and never overly
      you can have vegetarian treats from the chefs of Hiltl,                           complicated. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 22:30.                     Mère Catherine F- 4, Nägelihof 3, 8 Helmhaus,
      Zurich’s famed vegetarian restaurant. The buffet                                  (24 - 69Sfr). JAB                                                        tel. +41 44 250 59 40, Mother
      includes salads, warm treats and chutneys - all to take
      away too. Other Hiltl Take Aways are located at Haus
                                                                                                                                                                 Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using
                                                                                                                                                                 plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also            Hiltl Take Away at Pflanzbar
      Hiltl (Sihlstrasse 28) and in the basement of the Jelmoli                         French                                                                   does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled             in Zurich’s most beautiful flower shop
      departement store (Bahnhofstrasse). Q Open 09:00 -                                Brasserie Lipp E-3, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg,                           pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home-made,
      18:30, buffet by Hiltl 11:30 - 14:00, Sat & Sun closed.                           tel. +41 43 888 66 66, www.brasserie-lipp .ch. The                       are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls,
                                                                                        real French brasserie experience in Zurich: sauerkraut                   dark tables and white tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen
       NEW                                                                              (choucroute) with sausages, mussels (in summer not                       reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a
      Hin & Weg Gare D -2 , L agerstrasse 16B,                                          always available) with French fries, and a rich choice                   quiet drink. All the fresh-water fish comes from Lake Zurich.
      8Sihlpost, tel. +41 79 866 13 62, www.hinundweg                                   of sea food including oysters. The Art-Deco interior                     QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:15. (25 - 45Sfr).
      .biz. With the white tiles and black metal chandeliers                            gives you a real feeling of Paris - but it’s in fact just                JAB
      hanging from the 7-metre high ceiling, the interior here                          o f f Ba h n h o fs tras s e. Th e li f t takes you up to th e
      is obviously inspired by old Parisian metro stations (see                         Jules Verne panorama bar in the tower of the city’s
      photo above). The wooden bar, tables and chairs make                              observatory, a great place to finish your evening with                   International
      sure the atmosphere is not too cold - so you don’t feel                           a cocktail and stunning views over the city. Q Open                      Turm F-3, Obere Zäune 19, 8 Rathaus, tel. +41
      like catching the next train. For lunch they do fresh                             08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:30 - 01:00,                     43 268 39 40, If you are not good
      sandwiches and salads with local ingredients, for dinner                          Sun 11:30 - 23:00. Kitchen open until 24:00 (23 -                        at decisions, you will have a hard time choosing at the
      there is a smaller selection available. The Hin & Weg is                          60Sfr). JAB                                                              Caribbean restaurant Turm: the vast menu reads almost
      frequented by many students of the neighbouring college                                                                                                    like a zoo: crocodile, kangaroo, beef, soups, salads and
      of education. Stylish place for a beer in the evening too.                        L e Poi s son (H otel G lärni schhof ) E - 4,                            quesadillas. The place is heavily decorated with plants and
      Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun closed.                              Claridenstrasse 30, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. +41 44                          palms, contrasting with the old guild house it’s located in.
                                                                                        286 22 22, www.hotelglaernischhof .ch. Poisson is,                       Food is good and service fast - usually. The Turm is hidden
      Sternen Grill F-5, Theaterstrasse 22, 8Bellevue,                                  of course, French for fish, so no surprise it’s all about fish           in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s well known: just ask
      tel. +41 251 49 49, The city’s                               and seafood here. On the small, seasonally changing menu                 for directions. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Non-stop kitchen until
      most famous sausage barbecue has just reopened. The
      bratwurst here is tasty, but the mustard is what’s really
      special: made with horseradish it’s extra hot and fiery.
                                                                                        you will always find their classic and excellent fish soup
                                                                                        Marseille-style besides whole grilled or baked fish. If you have
                                                                                        something of an appetite though, we would recommend the
                                                                                                                                                                 23:30. (29 - 66Sfr). JAB

      No matter the weather, the take out on the ground floor                           taster menu (choose between 3 and 5 courses) - that way you                                                                                     for a Hiltl-Brownie at Pflanzbar
      is where Zurich gets its bratwurst. You can also get grilled                      can enjoy more than one of their seafood specialities. The               Bindella E-4, In Gassen 6, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41
      chicken, French fries and on the first floor (catch a seat on                     dessert was excellent too (we had sorbet of lemon, mandarin              44 221 25 46, Bindella is dedicated to                Hiltl Take Away at Pflanzbar of Blumen Krämer,
      the balcony, if you can!) some simple Swiss dishes - but                          and blood orange). Good fish cuisine with outstanding                    Venetian cuisine and it’s not just the Neo-Baroque interior:          Talstrasse 62, 8001 Zurich,
      the bratwurst is what Sternen Grill is all about. Q Open                          service in a formal atmosphere. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00,                    fish and seafood rule the menu. Meat lovers get their money‘s
      10:30 - 23:45, Fri & Sat 10:30 - 01:30, Sun 10:30 - 23:00.                        18:00 - 24:00, closed Sat & Sun. Kitchen open until 22:00.               worth as well. Try spaghetti with clams (alle vongole) as a                            * valid until 31.10.2013
                                                                                        (49 - 68Sfr). JA                                                         starter, continue with the chopped calf‘s liver with risotto and

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                                     August - September 2013
34          RESTAURANTS                                                                                                                                                                                                    RESTAURANTS                                        35

     Il Giglio C-4, Weberstrasse 14, 8Stauffacher, tel. +41                                                                                    come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and                                                      ITALIAN
     44 242 85 97, Simple and down-to-earth             Japanese                                                              the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your
     Italian cuisine, that’s what chef Vito Giglio has been offering     Negishi F-4, Nägelihof 1, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44                      significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the                                              ANTIPASTI BUFFET
     for years now with great success in his small ristorante.           252 05 10, Here you can take off your                 back. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri
     As Vito cooks with fresh ingredients from the market only,          shoes and sit on the floor, following Japanese custom. But            & Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (with oriental
     the handwritten menu changes daily. Eat the Italian way:            don’t worry, this sushi bar in the Niederdorf part of the             cuisine). (19 - 35Sfr). B
     choose from three starters and two main courses for lunch           old town has normal tables too. There are many different                                                                                                                Stampfenbachstrasse 8
     or go for the four-course menu in the evening (around 90Sfr):       platters on offer with all kinds of nigiri, maki and uramaki          Terrasse F-4, Limmatquai 3, 8Bellevue, tel. +41                                                       CH-8001 Zurich
     home-made pasta, meat and vegetables as a side dish.                and the like - but no conveyor belt. The sushi creations are          44 251 10 74, The Terrasse boasts
     For dessert there is a variety of cheeses or some sweets            freshly prepared and tasty and the platters for two people            impressive architecture: the great hall with its semi-circular
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   T +41 44 250 59 60
     prepared by Vito’s partner Patrizia. The Il Giglio is pricey, but   really feed two here. Seven different sakes to choose from.           window front, the columns and the chandelier give it a
     serves excellent food. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 23:30,          Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. (17 - 48Sfr).                touch of the French sun-king Louis XIV. The emphasis of
     Sat 18:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (approx. 28 - 70Sfr). AB             JAB                                                                   the menu is more on Italian food (tortellini, risotto, filetto)
                                                                                                                                               but there is, for instance, a French rôti de veau (veal meat
                                                                         Sala of Tokyo D-1, Limmatstrasse 29, 8Sihlquai/                       loaf) to fit regal French fantasies. A venue for the styled
                                                                         Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 271 52 90, www.sala-of                      and the beautiful: it‘s all about seeing and being seen.                                 |
                                                                It calls itself ‘Japan‘s Food Embassy N°1’ - and           Lovely garden, bar and lounge (open from 10:00 until late).
                                                                         that‘s what Sala of Tokyo is, at least in Zurich. The Sala‘s          Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 -
                                                                         meals with 9 courses (130Sfr) will convince you that there‘s          24:00. Kitchen open until 23:30, Sat and Sun brunch menu
                                                                         more to Japanese kitchen than sushi or sashimi. Surprises             (29 - 59Sfr). JAB                                                                           con amore e passione
                                                                         are included as the menu says no more than ‘something from                                                                                                                   warm meals all day
                                                                         the sea’ or ‘something fried’. In the sankaiyaki part of the          Zum Grünen Glas F- 4, Untere Zäune
                                                                         restaurant the dishes are grilled at your table. If you want to       15, 8 Neumarkt, tel. +41 44 251 65 04,
                                                                         go for the extravagant try the celebrated Wagyu beef from             www.gruenesglas .ch. A little bit off the beaten track
                                                                         Kobe cattle (180Sfr).QOpen 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:45,              on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas
                                                                         Sat 18:00 - 22:45. Closed Sun & Mon. Kitchen open until               offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble
                                                                         21:30 (33 - 72Sfr). JAB                                               atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is
                                                                                                                                               the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or
                                                                                                                                               Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s
                                                                         Mediterranean                                                         very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich
                                                                         Bar Basso D -3, Sihlstrasse 59, 8 Sihlstrasse,                        dishes like geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu
                                                                         tel. +41 43 497 25 28, We like                       as well. QOpen 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:30, Sat 17:30 -
                                                                         the style of the Basso - it’s modern and pure, without                23:30. Closed Sun. Until Aug 18: Sat closed. Kitchen open         Mühlebachstrasse 2 | CH-8008 Zurich | T +41 44 250 59 30
                                                                         being supercooled. The Italian-Alpine food is also worth              until 22:00. (28 - 45Sfr). JAB                                         |
                                                                         more than a mention. We had a tasty tartar as a starter
                                                                         followed by a wonderful cheese lasagne, served not in
                                                                         layers but open, so to speak. The frequently changing                 Oriental
     Italian in black and white - the Totò before the evening            menu features great cuts of meat too. The service was                 Le Cèdre - Bellevue F-4, Schifflände 5, 8Bellevue,
     starts.                                                       PD    attentive and fresh. They also have a wood-fire oven for              tel. +41 44 252 83 70, www.libanesisch .ch. This is
                                                                         genuine pizze. QOpen 08:00 - 00:30, Sat 10:00 - 00:30.                the city branch of the original Le Cèdre (Badenerstrasse
     Totò H-7, Seefeldstrasse 124, 8Höschgasse, tel. +41                 Closed Sun. JAB                                                       78, +41 44 241 42 72), which opened more than 15 years
     43 443 00 80, The Totò is an                                                                                      ago as one of the first Lebanese restaurants in town.              Goethestrasse 24
     Italian restaurant, a casual bar and a café all in one. The big     Les Halles K-6, Pfingstweidtsrasse 6, 8Schiffbau,                     And we can confirm that it serves the same excellent                CH-8001 Zurich
     oval lamps, the leather seats and the high room give the            tel. +41 44 273 11 25, www .les-halles .ch. This                      cuisine that host Maurice Houraibi stands for. On offer           T +41 44 250 59 20
     place a certain elegance. For food they serve freshly made          garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from               are more than 100 different types of mezze (cold and       
     pasta, pizza, some seafood and the famous fiorentina, the           around the Mediterranean with a particularly French                   warm starters) with all kind of mystic tastes unfamiliar
     all-Italian T-bone steak. All quite simple but really good - just   touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with                  to Western tongues. Many of the mezzes are vegetarian.
     the typical Italian way. We don’t really have to mention they       French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or              Take a selection of them as a starter or big platter as a
     also have a well assorted wine menu, right? Q Open 07:30            the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market             main course. There are also lamb, veal, poultry and fish
     - 24:00, Thu & Fri 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun            hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s             dishes. Service tends to be a little slow. Q Open 09:00 -           straightforward
     10:00 - 24:00. (20 - 59Sfr). AB                                     served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so             00:30. (19 - 37Sfr). JAB                                             Swiss cuisine

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      The original
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  T +41 44 250 59 10 |     is back

                                                                          White Elephant                                       im
                                                                                                                       Zürich M riot ote
                                                                                                                       Zürich Ma riott Hotel
                                                                                                                              Mar         e                                                                        Take Away at Collana Bar e Caffè
                                                                                                                             mühlequa 2
                                                                                                                        Neumühlequai 42
                                                                          +4 0) 44 3 0 73 22 |
                                                                          +41 ) 44 36 7
                                                                           41(                  ht
                                                                                                        hant c                    üri
                                                                                                                           8006 Zürich
                                                                                                                           8006 Züric
                                                                                                                             00 Züri                                                                                         directly on Sechseläutenplatz

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                              August - September 2013
36          RESTAURANTS                                                                                                                                                                                                       RESTAURANTS                                              37

                                                                       origins. The cooking is of high quality, service professional. The                                                                         mussels with fries they have in winter don’t come from a
       Swiss cuisine                                                   slightly dated interior has a sprinkling of Iberian kitsch, while the                                                                      mountain lake). The fleischvogel (beef olive, rolled stuffed
                                                                       outside tables are in the cobbled streets along the two sides of                                                                           beef) and the vegetarian starter we chose were remarkably
       What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is              this corner house. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (32 - 54Sfr). JAB                                                                                  tasty and the terrace is lovely. The chocolate mousse we
       heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially                                                                                                                                                had to finish off could have been airier, but nevertheless we
       the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most
                                                                       Taverna Catalana E-3, Glockengasse 8, tel. +41 44                                                                                          definitely will come here again. Remarkable wine menu. Q
       Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue),
                                                                       221 12 62, Since 1982 José                                                                                         Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sun & Mon closed.
       a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking
                                                                       Ledesmà has been entertaining all kinds of customers in his
       cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take                                                                                                                                                    NEW
                                                                       rustic tavern in the old town. And the classics on his menu
       getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality,
       melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles         have never changed: tortillas, paradilla (seafood and rice),                                                                               Hopfenau K-5, Hopfenstrasse 19, 8 Schmiede
       and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss,              paella (evenings only, minimum 2 persons) or squid baked in                                                                                Wiedikon, tel. +41 44 211 70 60,
       the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being          batter - it all tastes as if you were actually in Spain, though                                                                            The recently opened Hopfenau cooks solid Swiss food
       the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional             the decor in this ancient Zurich wine tavern is still more Swiss                                                                           with that extra touch, for example filet of lamb with tomato
       Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce,       than Iberian. With the seafood we recommend a glass of                                                                                     couscous, polenta terrine or the delightful ravioli al pesto
       often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti,          Albarino - and don‘t leave without a crema catalana for                                                                                    and the all creamy mousse au chocolat we had on our
       a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla    dessert. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun & Mon. Kitchen                                                                                   lunchtime visit. The interior is unexcited and plain and the
       but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland         open: 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (20 - 46Sfr). JAB                                                                                      service charming - we really like this place. Not on the usual
       also has an impressive range of breads to go with the                                                                                   Simply enjoyable - those Alpine mussels at the Grüntal.      PD    tourist track, but definitely worth a visit. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. (34 - 56Sfr).
       cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf) is a favourite
       for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue
                                                                       Steak houses
       bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly              Bohemia H-5, Klosbachstrasse 2, 8Kreuzplatz, tel.                       Try the mousse au chocolat flavoured with chilli - sweet and       Kronenhalle F-4, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel.
       speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular           +41 44 383 70 60, Bohemia’s waiters                     fiery, just like an Argentinean lover. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00,       +41 44 262 99 00, www .kronenhalle .com. The
       too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot   wear ties - and they’re not the only thing with style around            16:30 - 20:30, Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 16:30 - 02:00, Sat 16:00         Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top
       broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying        here. The tiled floor and the crystal chandeliers give the              - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 00:30. Kitchen open until 22:00, Fri &        bankers, artists, authors, editors-in-chief and celebrities
       with a range of sauces and sides.                               Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere, drawing both business               Sat until 23:00. (21 - 59Sfr). JAB                                 come to the famous brasserie on Bellevueplatz - and mix
                                                                       people and the city’s in-crowd. They mainly serve steaks                                                                                   with (well dressed) ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and
                                                                       grilled to your liking on the wood-fire grill. Try their home-                                                                             original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give
                                                                       made sauces - we loved the just slightly sweet ketchup. The             Swiss                                                              the brasserie its classic yet old-fashioned look - nothing
     M a i s o n B l u n t L -7, G a s o m e t e r s t r a s s e 5 ,   bar area at the front can be busy, so if you prefer a quieter           As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see   has changed in decades. The food (classics: schnitzel with
     8 Limmatplatz, tel. +41 43 211 00 33,                             atmosphere, try to get a table in the room at the back. Q               Swiss cuisine, p. 36), we list some traditional restaurants        cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good,
     www .maison-blunt .ch. Located in a former garage,                Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu & Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 -                here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern          pricey, but certainly not as important as the see-and-be-
     the Maison Blunt is a popular Moroccan restaurant. It’s           01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (25 - 64Sfr). AB                              way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue       seen. There is a salon for private dinners and a cocktail-
     split into two parts: the tea room where you can spend                                                                                    and raclette, try Le Dézaley or Walliser Keller (see below).       bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 23:15. (28
     the whole day sitting on low chairs and sofas and the             Churrasco E-3, Glockengasse 9, 8Paradeplatz, tel.                       We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a seperate category   - 76Sfr). JAX
     restaurant for lunch and dinner. Food here is excellent.          +41 44 221 11 44, Big pieces of                       overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food
     We recommend the big mezze platter to taste lots of different     Argentinian beef - that’s what the Churrasco in the middle              - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.
     oriental-style dishes like tabbouleh (bulgur wheat salad),        of the old town is all about. Choose your preferred weight
     hummus, and baked cheese together with the fabulous pita          and cut - fillet, sirloin, rump steak - and tell the waiter how         Bahnhof Stadelhofen G -5, Goethestrasse 24,
     bread. Don‘t forget to order a glass of Moroccan red wine (yes,   you would like the chef to grill it. There is also lamb, chicken        8Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 250 59 20,
     they do wine in Morocco!) and finish off with the trademark tea   and horse, all from the grill. Not only the meat but all other          At Bahnhof Stadelhofen you get solid Swiss food in a no-frills,
     made with a generous sprig of fresh peppermint. Very popular      ingredients are meticulously fresh and of high quality. The             traditional atmosphere. Try one of the classics like hörnli &
     for brunch on weekends. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat           beef comes with the traditional chimchurri sauce (parsley,              ghacktets (Swiss style pasta with minced meat) or älpler
     08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00,     coriander, garlic and oil). The snug courtyard at the back              makkaronen (maccaroni and potatoes chunks with a creamy
     18:00 - 23:00, weekend 10:00 - 23:00. (24 - 36Sfr). AB            offers sheltered outdoor tables. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.                   sauce). They make the cordon bleu, another very popular
                                                                       Kitchen open all day (26 - 79Sfr). JAB                                  Swiss dish, with veal here, which is really how it should be.
                                                                                                                                               Service is fast, which makes the Stadelhofen a good stop
     Spanish                                                           Tank E-2, Stüssihofstatt 15, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43                      for dinner before a visit to one of the neighbouring cinemas.
     Madrid F-3, Brunngasse 12, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke,                   243 61 43, The Tank majors on                   For a more classy atmosphere try the refectory on the first
     tel. +41 44 251 13 33, Not              meat: Argentinean beef (served on a hot stone slab), horse,             floor. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (20 - 36Sfr). JA
     surprisingly given it’s name, the Madrid serves exclusively       lamb, ostrich or gnu - they grill it all for you. The candles on the
     Spanish cuisine. The menu is long with plenty of grilled fish     tables give this colonial style restaurant a nice atmosphere,           Eichhörnli C-2, Nietengasse 16, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.
     and meat, the classic paella (minimum 2 pers.) and some more      though they could add a little more lighting. In case you have          +41 44 241 11 28, The
     unusual dishes, which remain clearly committed to the Spanish     a vegetarian in your group, there are grilled vegetables too.           small and friendly ‘squirrel’ is often full on the weekends, and
                                                                                                                                               we understand why. It’s the sort of place where the staff like
                                                                                                                                               to have a chat and make you feel at home very quickly. There
                                                                                                                                               are many Swiss, French and Italian standards on the menu,
                                                                                                                                               like veal’s liver with sage, entrecôte café de paris or safron
                                                                                                                                               risotto, some with a twist to them. They don’t make a big fuss
                                                                                                                                               here, they just serve good food. The chef sticks to the seasons,
                                                                                                                                               and there’s a good selection of Swiss wines on the wine list.
                                                                                                                                               Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:30 - 23:30,
                                                                                                                                               closed Sun & Mon. Kitchen until 22:00. (23 - 42Sfr). AB

                                                                                                                                               Grüntal Breitensteinstrasse 21, 8Wipkingerplatz,
                                                                                                                                               tel. +41 44 241 22 28, www.levante .ch. A gem of
                                                                                                                                               a restaurant with excellent cooking and a low-key style,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Kreuzplatz | 8032 Zürich
                                                                                                                                               that’s the Grüntal. It’s located close to Escher Wyss Platz in  | T: +41 (0) 44 383 70 60
                                                                                                                                               Zürich West. On offer is a small, seasonally changing choice
                                                                                                                                               of straight-forward dishes from the Alpine region (ok, the

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                    August - September 2013
38           RESTAURANTS                                                                                                                                                                                                                     RESTAURANTS                                                                  39

                                                                                  Le Dézaley F-4, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel.                   bonding and heavy partying: be prepared to see all kinds of              it since 1898. Just grab a plate and pick from the huge
      Waterside restaurants                                                       +41 44 251 61 29, Since 1974                   people go wild and yourself ending up dancing in a conga line            choice of curries, chutneys, salads, tofu and a lot more…
                                                                                  Pascal Ruhlé and his team have been cooking dishes from the       through the restaurant. On the menu there is traditional food            Take away and eating in the bar area is cheaper, while the

                                                                        Quai 61
                                                                                  canton Vaud, situated in western Switzerland. The fondue          like rösti or cordon bleu. But don’t be spoofed: the bands are           restaurant area with table service and à la carte dishes
                                                                                  prepared according to an old family recipe is definitely very     mostly Austrian. When a band is playing, drinks cost around              offers more comfort. In the evening the bar doubles as a
                                                                                  tasty and also comes in a version with morels (mushrooms).        a third more, in the evening there is a 7Sfr admission fee. Q            club. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 06:00 - late, Sun
                                                                                  Or get one of the fondue deals including a starter (like air-     Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00,                08:00 - late. Kitchen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.
                                                                                  dried meat) and a dessert. Try one of the different sausages      Sat 15:30 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Mon & Tue closed                   (25 - 33Sfr). JABS
                                                                                  of the region, be it stuffed with cabbage or just served plain    14:00 - 17:00. (15 - 30Sfr). JAB
                                                                                  with French beans or leek or go for one of the other Swiss                                                                                 Pot-au-vert F-2, Limmatquai 142, 8Central, tel.
                                                                                  dishes. The old part of the restaurant is more charming, so                                                                                +41 44 267 60 40, www .limmathof .com. On the
                                                                                  try to get a seat there. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00.                                                                               second floor of Hotel Limmathof, the Pot-au-vert is a quiet,
                                                                                  Closed Sun. Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - 50Sfr). JAB                                                                                    somewhat unsophisticated place with friendly service.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             The kitchen conjours up great vegetarian dishes like
                                                                                  Schützengasse Schützengasse 32,                                                                                                            courgette carpaccio with balsamico dressing, croutons
                                                                                  8 Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 500 10 30,                                                                                                and crumbs of sbrinz (a very hard Swiss cheese) or
      Chuchi am Wasser E-1, Wasserwerkstrasse 21,                                 www.schuetzengasse .com. The Schützengasse was                                                                                             beetroot risotto with cauliflower and horseradish. Q
      8Beckenhof, tel. +41 44 365 34 44,                           reopened 2010 after a very mindful and tasteful renovation.                                                                                Kitchen open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat
      With outdoor tables right next to the river, the’kitchen                    The simple restaurant interior dating back to the beginning                                                                                & Sun. (22 - 28Sfr). JA
      at the waterside’ lives up to its name. They offer solid                    of the last century was retained, but made much more light
      food, serving daily changing menues (mostly with locally                    and airy. The menu majors on Italian dishes and a selection                                                                                tibits G-5, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41
      produced ingredients) as well as some sweets. This is a                     of high-quality meat cuts. The ravioli with truffle cream sauce                                                                            44 260 32 22, The bounteous vegetarian
      relaxed place on the water. On hot days, you can watch                      were very good and the swordfish solid, only the lunch side                                                                                buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues
      the flock of swimmers wandering upstream, before they                       salad was rather spiritless. They also do a rare speciality:                                                                               up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily
      jump into the river.QOpen 10:30 - 23:00, Sat & Sun                          bone marrow of beef as a starter. Popular with an well-                                                                                    specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain
      11:00 - 23:00, Mon closed. JB                                               dressed and slightly cool clientele. QOpen 11:30 - 14:00,         Zurich’s popular vegetarian dinosaur - the Hiltl.                  PD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             tasty, believe us. Situated at the beginning of the Seefeld
      Fischer’s Fritz Seestrasse 559, tel. +41 44 480                             18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.                                                                                              district, tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with
      13 40, www.fischers-fritz .ch. Fish is the mainstay                                                                                                                                                                    the business people and the hipper residents of the area.
      of the menu here: whitefish, perch, pike and more,                                                                                            Rheinfelder Bierhalle F-2, Niederdorfstrasse 76,                         And yes, it’s all available to take away too. Sister restaurant
      depending on what fisherman Adrian Gerny has caught.                                                                                          8Central, tel. +41 44 251 54 64,                     ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12,
      The fish come deep fried as knusperli in a crispy coat                                                                                        The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place         +41 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00).
      - we really liked it. There are non-fish options too, e.g. all-                                                                               where workers, students, and business men alike go for the               QOpen 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00,
      you-can-eat chicken wings (26.50Sfr). The pretty view of                                                                                      big portions, good prices and traditional down-to-earth food             Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per
      the city and the Alps here on the lakeshore makes it worth                                                                                    - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm,            100 grams). JABS
      visiting for an afternoon drink too. Take bus N°161 from                                                                                      but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli
                                                                                                                                                    (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ball-

      Bürkliplatz in direction of Kilchberg, stop Stadtgrenze.
      Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, kitchen closed in the afternoon.                                                                                        shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon
      (27 - 51Sfr). AB                                                                                                                              bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the
                                                                                                                                                    waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of
      L a k e S i d e G -7, B e l l e r i v e s t r a s s e 17 0 ,                                                                                  meat the size of an elephant’s ear. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
      8 Fröhlichstrasse, tel. +41 4 4 385 86 00,                                                                                                    Kitchen open until 23:15 (12 - 32Sfr). JNB The main asset here are the two

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                is rich.
      terraces right on the lake shore. The setting is sublime                                                                                      Z e u g h a u s ke l l e r E - 4 , B a h n h o f s t r a s s e 2 8 a ,
      (as is the clientele), in white-table-cloth elegance.The                                                                                      8 Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 220 15 15,
      cuisine incorporates European and Asian influences, with                                                                             The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal)
      many different fish dishes, some sushi creations, as well                                                                                     is one of Zurich’s biggest beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval
      as meat and pasta. On busy summer days you might have                                                                                         arsenal it serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous
      to wait a little (for a table and for your food), but with this             This end of Niederdorfstrasse enjoys an unusual                   helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular
      view of the lake and the city, waiting can seem sweet,                      concentration of beer halls.                                AM    with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                In vitamins.
      can’t it? Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.                                                                                            where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big
      (29 - 54Sfr, a starter only costs 10Sfr extra). AB                          Walliser Keller F-3, Zähringerstrasse 21, 8Central,               tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around
       NEW                                                                        tel. +41 44 269 44 44, The                are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk,
      Quai 61 D-6, Mythenquai 61, 8Rentenanstalt,                                 Hotel Zürcherhof’s restaurant brings the specialities from        you might end up getting conscripted. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
      tel. +41 44 405 61 61, www.quai61 .ch. Part of                              the mountainous southern canton of Wallis to town. There          Kitchen open until 22:15 (19 - 40Sfr). JAB
      the Quai 61 is actually built on the water, meaning you                     are Raclette and eight different kinds of fondues on the
                                                                                  menu - with extras ranging from pepper and garlic to goat
      have a truly perfect view of the lake and the city here.
      Try to get a table by the huge windows (some of them                        cheese and mushrooms. But there is meat as well - and not         Vegetarian
      can be opened in summer). The waiters are dressed like                      just the air-dried kind we recommend for a starter. Go for        Bona Dea E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Bahnhofquai/HB,
      seamen, probably that’s why we feel like we’ve just set                     the fillet of beef for example or the not particularly Swiss      tel. +41 44 217 15 15, Bona Dea in
      off on a cruise. The menu is small and features grilled                     but nevertheless tasty meat fondues. We like the traditional      the main train station offers a large vegetarian buffet every
                                                                                  cellar-style atmosphere with the modern touch here. A good        day of the week, with curries, other Asian and also Italian                  V EG E TA RI A N RE S TAU R A N T B A R TA K E AWAY C AT E RIN G
      meat from the beachwood grill (you can smell and taste
      it) some fish options and pasta. No daring compositions,                    choice if cheese is what you’re after.QOpen 11:30 - 14:00,        dishes and salads and dessert. The atmosphere has a touch                    S E E F E L D S T R . 2 | T IB I T S AT T H E N Z Z B I S T R O, FA L K E N S T R . 12

                                                                                  18:15 - 23:00, Sat & Sun closed. (21 - 49Sfr). JAB                of airport anonymity, but the staff, who serve the drinks, are               N E X T T O T H E O P E R A H O U S E , Z U R I C H | W W W .T I B I T S . C H
      all rather simple but tasty, we must admit. Don’t forget
      to book a table. In good weather they have an outdoor                                                                                         very friendly. Q Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00. Until Aug                W W W .T I B I T S . C O . U K | A S A N A P P               O N FA C E B O O K

                                                                                                                                                    25 closed Sun. (21 - 42Sfr). JA
      area with a smaller menu and no reservations (open
      14:30 - 24:00). On the upper floor there is a bar and a
                                                                                  Beer halls
      sun deck. Q Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat                          Bierhalle Wolf F-2, Limmatquai 132, 8Central, tel.                Haus Hiltl D-3, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rennweg, tel. +41
      18:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00. Bar                        +41 44 251 01 30, Live Alpine-             44 227 70 00, The Hiltl is Zurich’s vegetarian
      Fri & Sat until 02:00.                                                      style folk music every day from 16:00 - 18:00 and from 20:00      institution par excellence. It’s simply amazing what they do
                                                                                  until late makes the Wolf an engaging place for drunken           with purely vegetarian ingredients - and they’ve been doing

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                                            August - September 2013
40          CAFÉS                                                                                                                                                                                                                       NIGHTLIFE                                       41

     Coffee and desserts are the main business of cafés in                 decades. Try their homemade ice cream or the chocolade                  Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and
     Zurich, as you might expect. And many draw on the rich                (chocolate milk) Felix is best known for. They serve all kinds          alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and       - your party portal
     Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there             of sweets as well as breakfasts from fast and simple to                 strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of                                is a website
     is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic           luxurious with salmon and champagne. Elderly ladies love                Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The                                          where you can check out what’s
     beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many                   this pricey café for their afternoon chat just as much as               main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town, the          on in town. A simple click on a certain date in the calendar
     double as bars in the evening rather than closing.                    young, hip girls dropping in for a break from shopping. Q               streets around Langstrasse and Zurich West (see Zurich’s          shows you all the parties and events that are on that
                                                                           Open 07:30 - 21:00, Fri 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00,               districts). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of     day. Name of the party, music style played and location
     Babu’s Bakery D-3, Löwenstrasse 1, 8Sihlporte, tel.                   Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Kitchen open until 21:00 JABK                        bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A night         - it’s all there. You’ll understand even if you don’t speak
     +41 44 212 87 45, You might have to queue                                                                                        out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If you’re        German. And don’t forget to go back to the site the
     to get one of this coffeehouse’s lovely sweets or excellent           La Stanza D-4, Bleicherweg 10, 8Paradeplatz, tel.                       heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy, as not           day after partying to see if one of their photographers
     fresh sandwiches, but never mind, it’s worth every second of          +41 43 817 62 82, www.lastanza .ch. This popular                        all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the quiet       caught you in action.
     your time. Armchairs which remind us of our grandmothers’,            Italian style coffee bar close to Paradeplatz offers a variety          side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and
     wooden shelves filled with pottery and a fireplace make for a         of Mediterranean liquors, wines and drinks - and the local              around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings.
     very cosy interior. And because you can not stay there forever,       beer Paul on tap. The rather well-dressed customers sit on                                                                              Raygrodski A-3, Sihlfeldstrasse 49, 8Lochergut, tel.
     you can buy your favourite blend of coffee or tea, so you can         the window benches and sip on their sprizz (a mixture of                                                                                +41 79 109 49 49, The liquor bottles
     enjoy some of Babu’s joys at home. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00,              prosecco and aperol liquor) served by the stylish black-tied            Casual bars                                                     hanging upside-down from the ceiling are an eyecatcher here, but
     Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JA                                                 owners. The stone bar and the big steaming coffee machine               Corazon F-3, Zähringerplatz 11, 8 Rudolf-Brun-                  certainly not the reason why this bar is so popular with a young
                                                                           (a 1963 Faema) in the back make the Italian experience                  Brücke, tel. +41 44 261 09 59, www.corazon .ch.                 and fashionable crowd. The extensive cocktail library, the twelve
                                                                           perfect. Soups and Italian snacks available - brunch on                 Just opposite the Prediger church the Corazon attracts the      different vodkas available (served with cucumber), the table
                                                                           Sundays. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri                    young and beautiful - and lots of students who are escaping     service and the mix of the young, care-free atmosphere with some
                                                                           07:00 - 01:30, Sat 10:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. J                  the Zentralbibliothek, Zurich‘s biggest library, on the other   true style are the ingredients people love at the Raygrodski - and
                                                                                                                                                   side of the square. The discrete bossa nova or Latin music      you can count us in too. On weekends a DJ spins some tunes. Q
                                                                           Sprüngli E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel.                     in the background and the tapas on the menu bring a             Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun & Mon closed. A
                                                                           +41 44 224 46 16, Sprüngli has been                   Mediterranean touch to Zurich. A good place for a coffee in
                                                                           around for 170 years and for locals it’s synonymous with                the morning or a glass of wine in the evening. Occasionally
                                                                           excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place          concerts on Mondays. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 -           Classy bars
                                                                           to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to            02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. AE                 NEW
                                                                           get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz,                                                                           Aura Bleicherweg 5, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 448 11
                                                                           order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display                                                                              44, The Aura is a dignified and stylish
                                                                           cabinet. Try their famed luxemburgerli, small macaroons with                                                                            restaurant, bar and club in the former Swiss stock exchange,
                                                                           a light and airy cream filling in different flavours or some of their                                                                   close to Paradeplatz. The bar on the first floor is dominated
                                                                           many varieties of chocolates. Unusually for Switzerland you pay                                                                         by brown hues and has a hushed international elegance with
                                                                           at the cash desk when leaving. The ground-floor shop sells all                                                                          its leather padded benches and carpet. A separate section is
                                                                           their confectionery by the piece or in gift boxes. QOpen 07:00                                                                          for smokers - with a selection of cigars on offer. Guests here
                                                                           - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Sun 09:30 - 17:30. JABK                                                                                     tend to be a bit older than in many other bars, and are probably
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   dressed somewhat better too. Of course all the classic
     Polished italianità at café Collana.                            PD                                                                                                                                            cocktails and spirits are available. Q Open 13:30 - 00:30,
                                                                             Breakfast                                                                                                                             Fri & Sat 13:30 - 02:00, Sun closed. AK

     Caredda L-7, Josefstrasse 119, 8Limmatplatz, tel.                       Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss                                                                                      Rive Gauche E-4, Talstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel.
     +41 44 440 23 41, The                        families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss                                                                                       +41 44 220 50 60, The Rive Gauche
     Caredda close to Limmatplatz has two connected rooms - a                breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a                                                                                bar attracts a mixed crowd: the guests of the five-star hotel
     cake and pastry shop and a coffee bar. The interior is spartan          braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses                                                                                Baur au Lac in whose premises the bar is situated mix with
     Italian-style, but you come here for the pastries Paolo Caredda         or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of                                                                                  the young city crowd. With the dark wooden bar, the mirrors
     and his team produce. Unfortunately it‘s not a secret anymore:          breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-and-walnut                                                                                  on the wall and the living-room-like lampshades the bar
     on Sundays especially there may be long queues - but the                bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast                                                                                 looks classic British with a touch of modernity. A good place
     marzipan, cakes and the little filled pastries with enticing            spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss                                                                                   for cocktails and drinks right in the centre of the city. They
     names make it more than worth the wait. Order a coffee at the           German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish                                                                                  have a lovely terrace for balmy summer evenings. The Rive
     bar and get some sweet bits and bites from the display cabinet.         with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat               International elegance at the Aura bar.                    PD   Gauche is also a restaurant with good, rather pricey meat
     QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 08:30 - 16:00.              flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in                                                                                 and seafood on the menu. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00, free Wi-fi.
                                                                             the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t                   Einfach F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 2, 8Bellevue, tel. +41             Closed from July 15 - Aug 11, terrace always open. AK
     Collana F-5, Theaterstrasse 9, 8Stadelhofen, tel. +41                   consider breakfast complete without one of the many                   43 210 38 06, The concept of this newly
     44 250 59 10, At the entrance to the                  takes on the müesli-theme.                                            opened bar is - the name says it all - simple. Simply Swiss,
     new subterranean car park in front of the opera at Bellevue             In recent years, brunch has become very popular in                    one could say. They sell Swiss wines, Swiss liquors and
     there is a stylish new café. A huge window front, stone floors          Switzerland and in Zurich many restaurants and cafés                  some outstanding Swiss cold cuts and cheeses (imported
     and the wooden panels behind the bar bring a fancy italianità           now serve breakfast or brunch until noon or even later.               products are few and far between here). The tables and floor
     to the place. The coffee here is excellent and the food Italian,        Here come our favourites:                                             kept in light wood and the leather sofas make for a cosy,
     solid and rather pricey (e.g. ravioli 25Sfr). Also on their menu                                                                              light-filled, no-frills atmosphere - simple. Q Open 16:00 -
     you’ll find the original pepito, a sandwich with a piece of grilled
                                                                             Felix am Bellevue, breakfasts served every day from                   00:30, Sun closed.
                                                                             fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and champagne
     meat (beef, lamb or chicken), onions and a secret sauce. It has
                                                                             (see on the left).
     many fans and was sold for decades in the Niederdorf until                                                                                    Le Philosophe F-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel.
     the place was recently closed. Nice outdoor area. Q Open                Babu’s Bakery, great breakfast and brunch, anything                   +41 44 250 59 40, www.commercio .ch. You don’t
     07:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JAB                             from zopf with jam to rösti, scrambled eggs, pancakes                 have to be a philosopher to find this bar enjoyable - if
                                                                             and juices - daily in the morning, on the weekend all day             you love cocktails that will do. Come here for a chat with
     Felix am Bellevue F-4, Bellevueplatz 5, 8Bellevue,                      long (see on the left).                                               friends - or to get in contact with strangers. The tiny size
     tel. +41 44 251 80 60, www .felixambellevue .ch.                        Bohemia, cosy brunch on the weekend (Sat & Sun                        of Le Philosophe makes it easy to get in touch with others.
     Opened in 2008 the Felix is the new top dog among the                   10:00 - 16:00), anything from Swiss müesli to American                If you lack a chat topic the barkeeper‘s music taste might
     coffee places around Bellevue. The spacious interior                    fried eggs with bacon or English style with sausages and              be something to talk about. Or order some tartar buns
     opulently decorated with flowers, columns and mirrors                   beans (see p. 36).                                                    from the neighbouring sister restaurant Mère Catherine.
     gives you the impression this grand café has been here for                                                                                    QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                     August - September 2013
42         NIGHTLIFE                                                                                                                                                                                                                    NIGHTLIFE                                     43

                                                                      Urania E-3, Uraniastrasse 7, 8Bahnhofstrasse /HB,                                                                                        Valmann D-4, Talstrasse 58, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41
      Billiards & Bowling                                             tel. + 41 44 210 28 08, Very                                                                                      43 497 31 31, The office workers of
                                                                      centrally located, the Urania is the after-work playground for                                                                           the city centre go crazy after work in this dark venue in the
      Billiardino K-6, Heinrichstrasse 245, 8Escher-                  business men and women as well as the preferred place for a                                                                              financial district. Starting Thursday DJs spin the latest dance
      Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 43 960 33 33,          break on many extensive shopping tours on Bahnhofstrasse.                                                                                tracks while the chic crowd consumes vodka by the bottle and
      With 47 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and videogames         Choose from a wide range of tapas and a well assorted                                                                                    dances its ass off. But please leave your tie at home - or the
      Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado in the middle of       choice of wines from Spain - or take a seat in the restaurant                                                                            bartender willl be happy to cut it off and hang it behind the
      the nightlife district Zurich West. You’ll find Billiardino     area for a more relaxed dinner from the menu. QOpen 11:00                                                                                bar, before you get your drink. The Valmann crew just thinks
      behind the Abaton multiplex cinema. Q Open 11:00 -              - 24:00. Closed Sun. A                                                                                                                   partying without a tie is more relaxed. And they do have a
      24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00                                                                                                                                                   point there. Q Open 17:30 - 01:00, Thu & Fri 17:30 - late,
      - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 24/27Sfr per hr.                                                                                                                                                             Sat 20:30 - late, closed Sun & Mon. A
                                                                      Alternative bars
      Bowling West Ifangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. +41                Hafenkneipe D-2, Militärstrasse 12, 8Sihlpost, tel.
      44 731 02 06, Bowling West
      is located in Schlieren, just three stops with the S-train
                                                                      +41 43 322 02 82, Though                                                                                            Casino
                                                                      Zurich doesn’t have a port, sitting on the seats made of
      from Zurich’s main train station (S12 or S3 direction

                                                                      wooden crates in the Hafenkneipe (‘harbour pub’) sipping a
      Baden/Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren cross to the northern       beer or a straight whiskey makes you feel like your ship to
      side of the tracks and walk five minutes back in the            the brave new world will be leaving shortly. The world map
      direction where the train came from. Booking by phone                                                                                 Valmann, packed as soon as the banks close.  
                                                                      behind the bar shows you where you could end up and the
      recommended. Q Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 14:00 -            young, quite alternative crowd will be happy to drink a farewell
      02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. 38 - 47Sfr per hour and lane.         shot with you anytime. Occasionally concerts on Mondays.              Taverns and drinkeries
      Caf é Schlauch F - 4, Münstergasse 20,                          Q Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed & Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00              Rössli F-4, Rössligasse 7, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44
      8 Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 251 23 04,                              - 02:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. E                             256 70 52, A long wooden bar The Schlauch is a traditional                                                                                    dominates this old-town tavern. Brickwork and beams
      restaurant in the old town which has about a dozen              Kon-TiKi F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 24, 8Rudolf-Brun                      make for a rather rustic atmosphere and as the music is
      billiards tables on its premises. Being the only place in       Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 35 77. The place for rock and                 really just background, the Rössli is a good place for a chat.
      the city centre offering the opportunity to play pool (as       heavy metal fans in Niederdorf. Three bars on two floors              In case you’re looking for a topic to talk about, the many
      far as we know at least), tables are often busy. But as         serve hard drinks for tough guys and girls. On the ground             whiskeys, rums and cocktails on offer may help you to find
                                                                      floor the juke box makes you the DJ, but you won‘t find               one. Q Open 15:30 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 15:30 - 02:00, Sun              Swiss Casinos D -3, Gessnerallee 3 -5,
      the Schlauch is a restaurant too, you simply let the guys                                                                                                                                                  8 S t a u f f a c h e r, t e l . + 4 1 4 3 3 3 0 3 0 3 0 ,
      put you on the reservation list and sit down and have a         anything soothing. The house special is chlöpfti (don‘t try           15:30 - 23:00.
                                                                      pronouncing that): vodka or tequila mixed with a fizzy drink                                                                               www.swisscasinos .ch. Zurich is the city of money,
      beer or two. They serve hearty organic food as well - so                                                                                                                                                   finance and banks - and as of last autumn it finally also
      why not have dinner before you play some sports? Q              in a shot glass and then slammed down on the counter so               Weinschenke (Hotel Hirschen) F-3, Hirschengasse
                                                                      hard they foam over. The beer is bottled. Table football. Q           6, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 43 268 33 33,                       has its own casino. The escalator takes you from the rather
      Open 10:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon.                                                                                                                                                                      unassuming entrance to the first floor, where the world of
                                                                      Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:00. E                        www .hirschen-zuerich .ch. This delicately lit historic
                                                                                                                                            vaulted cellar has a great atmosphere for a wine tavern. The         glittery lights and promised wins takes you in. More than
                                                                                                                                            Weinschenke is located in the building of the Hotel Hirschen         400 slot machines and the table games roulette, black
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors
      Live music venues                                                                                                                     and is entered from the small street (Hirschengasse) on the
                                                                                                                                            right-hand side of the hotel. Sit at the wooden tables and           make this casino one of the largest in Switzerland. The
                                                                                                                                            enjoy a glass of one of the twenty bottled wines that are            stakes on the table games set in at as little as 5Sfr - with
      Zurich offers all kind of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal,
                                                                                                                                            sold here by the glass. As appetizers we can recommend               practically no upper limit. At least not in the Private Club,
      indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing
                                                                                                                                            mostbröckli, dried meat from the Appenzell region east of            the part of the casino where high stakes can be played.
      somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars
                                                                                                                                            Zurich or a choice of Swiss cheese. QOpen 16:30 - 00:30.             For your physical well-being there is a bar and a lounge,
      listed here focus on live music - we tell what you can
                                                                                                                                            Closed Sun.                                                          the latter with a small stage where on weekends artists
      usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 such as look-alike performers offer some entertainment.
      For their daily programme, check the websites - or find
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 The casino has a smoker’s section with table games and
      all concerts on                                                                                                     Dance bars                                                           slot machines. To get access to this gambling paradise
      La Catrina C-2, Kurzgasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.                                                                                     Bagatelle 93 C-2, Langstrasse 93, tel. +41 44 558                    you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed, pay
      +41 78 771 13 46, Tuesdays and                                                                                      81 23, This venue has a rather                   10Sfr entrance fee and have a valid ID card or passport
      Thursdays (21:30) there are rock and singer/songwriter                                                                                crazy mix of decoration: sacral statues and pictures of              with you. And no, your chances of winning are not higher,
      concerts on the probably smallest stage in town.                                                                                      saints meet modern style wall paintings and disco balls. On          just because the casino is new. Q Open 11:00 - 04:00,
      QAdmission free, voluntary donation.                                                                                                  the ground floor, sofas to chill out on set the scene, while         Thu - Sat 11:00 - 05:00. Table games start 14:00.
      Langstars C-2, Langstrasse 120, 8Helvetiaplatz,                                                                                       the first floor is where the dancing action is. The DJ usually
      tel. +41 43 317 96 55, In the                                                                                      spins sounds from house music to more funky tunes. There
      bar of this backpacker there are often folk, blues and pop                                                                            is usually no admission which makes the Bagatelle popular
      concerts, mostly Thu to Sat (21:00). Q Admission free.          In Niederdorf, the Andorra has some outside seating too.              with a rather young clientele - but not only. Tuesdays often
                                                                                                                    concerts. Q Open 20:00 - 04:00, Tue & Wed 20:00 - 02:00.
      Moods K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss-                                                                                          Closed Sun & Mon.
      Platz, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, With                Mars Bar C-1, Neufrankengasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz,
      more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s            tel. +41 43 322 03 77, Opened some                    Movie Bar E-2, Beatenplatz 4, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel.
      prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music.      years ago by Rolle - you will recognize him by the toothpick in       +41 44 211 66 77, The Movie Bar is
      Big international names as well as many Swiss artists.          his mouth - the Mars Bar has become the home of supporters            usually crowded with guys wearing shirts with a collar and
      After-show parties on the weekend. Q Closed in August.          of the local football team FC Zurich (see their games live            dressed-up girls. The cocktail menu is huge and offers more
      Rote Fabrik Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen,                  on a big HD screen, as well as German bundesliga every                than just the usual suspects - we recommend a Petrifier, but
      tel. +41 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik .ch. This                 Saturday at 15:00). Rock music lovers also hang out here,             be aware: this is hard stuff, for tough guys. Loud disco music
      centre of alternative culture funded by the city has about      in fact anyone who doesn‘t really give a damn about what              encourages people to dance - and the longer the evening the
      100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages.            happens to be the taste of the moment. Get some goat’s                more people do so. The Movie has an American/Mexican
      Some bands are well established, others known by real           cheese or a sausage for a snack - or ask for Zwickelbier from         restaurant too. If steaks, skewers or fajitas is what you are
      insiders only. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel         Müllerbräu, something Rolle brought with him from his past,           after, the Movie restaurant is the place to go. Sundays there’s
      oh Lac restaurant.                                              when he was a barkeeper in the suburbs of Zurich. Q Open              a big brunch buffet (35Sfr). Q Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat
                                                                      18:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 18:00 - 03:00. X                             16:00 - 02:00. AK

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                 August - September 2013
44          NIGHTLIFE                                                                                                                                                                                                                      NIGHTLIFE                                 45

                                                                                                                                             Icon E-4, Augustinerhof, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44                   Kinski (Alte Metzgerei) C-2, Langstrasse 112,
     Pubs                                                                Clubs                                                               448 11 33, Located in the same old                 8Helvetiaplatz, This newest party
     Kennedy’s D-2, Freischützgasse 14, 8Sihlpost, tel.                  As nightlife goes outdoors in summer (see p. 14), many of           town house as the Tao restaurant, the small Icon club wants          location for fans of rock music and the like is named after
     +41 44 241 92 94, The Kennedy’s                    the city’s club have a reduced programme in July and August.        to attract a rather exclusive clientele - and mostly does so.        German actor Klaus Kinski - and comes across almost as
     is an Irish pub with a large outdoor area, located close to         But when the outdoor bars have to close at midnight you will        To fit in, you should dress up and be at least 24 years of           eccentric and wild as he was. While the bar on the ground
     the main train station. It’s popular with expats and locals         always find a dance floor to party on. If in doubt, check the       age. The wooden beams on the ceiling give the dance floor            floor works as a smokers lounge, the DJs spin their stuff in the
     alike. They have Guinness, Smithwicks and Magners Cider             websites of the clubs before you go.                                something of a historical touch. The music which is usually          cellar downstairs, which holds up to 250 revellers. We don’t
     on tap and really helpful and friendly staff, and of course all                                                                         somewhere between house and r’n’b is, however, not more              see what all the Chinese figures and ornaments have to do
     the major sports on different flat and big screens. Besides         Amber E-2, Bahnhofquai 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41                  exclusive than anywhere else. Q Open Fri & Sat 23:00 -               with Kinski, but perhaps that’s just part of the nonconformist
     burgers, salads and sandwiches they do some genuine                 44 222 02 02, Starting Thursday this              04:00. Admission 25Sfr. A                                            stance. Occasional concerts. Q Parties Thu - Sat 23:00 -
     pies, for example a beef and Guinness one we liked very             bar turns into a party club for boys with an attitude, dressed in                                                                        late, bar opens 20:00. EX
     much. Open mic on Monday nights - sing along! Q Open                collars-up shirts, and heart-stopping girls. The 25-up access       Jade D - 4, Brandschenkestrasse 25,
     11:30 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00.          policy makes sure kids who don’t know when to stop drinking         8 Brandschenkestrasse, tel. +41 44 202 80 02,                        Plaza B-3, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude,
     AEBK                                                                don’t get in - though not everyone over 25 knows how to    Opened in 2009 in a building which used to              tel. +41 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich .ch. The
                                                                         behave either. DJs spin everything from house to party tunes.       be a post office, the fashionable Jade draws a young, rich           decades-old cinema in the Plaza building at the western
     Oliver Twist F-3, Rindermarkt 6, 8Rathaus, tel.                     Q Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00,         and beautiful party crowd. Have some cash or a credit card           end of Langstrasse has changed into a big club with two
     +41 44 252 47 10, The Oliver Twist                 Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 23:00 - 04:00, closed Sun. Admission         handy, as the style here is to order the spirits by the bottle.      dance floors (and yes, you can smoke on the smaller
     in Niederdorf is a popular hangout for expats as well as            Thu - Sat 15 - 25Sfr. A                                             Girls really do dress up (‘tha less tha betta’) and men either       one!). Dj’s play sounds from mash up and r’n’b to disco,
     locals. Are you looking for English beer, burgers, fish n’chips,                                                                        show their muscles or their shirt collar - ideally both. The         house and other electronic music. The Plaza is popular
     chicken wings and salads? Relax, it’s all there. All the sports                                                                         music is mainly house, party tunes and electro. On weekdays          with all kinds of people - a good place to end your bar
     on numerous TVs - but be early for important games to make                                                                              the Jade is a restaurant with meat and fish specialities. Q          tour around Langstrasse. Often concerts and shows
     sure you get a place. Drunkenness is encouraged - but it’s                                                                              Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Admission Fri 25Sfr, Sat 30Sfr.        on other weekdays. Q Club open Thu 22:00, Fri & Sat
     easy to get in contact with people here anyway. QOpen                                                                                   Minimum age 21. AK                                                   23:00 - late. Bar open Mon - Sat 17:00 - late. Admission
     11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BK                                                                                                                                                                         around 25Sfr, Thu free before midnight. Often concerts
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  and shows. AEX

       Classical dancing                                                                                                                                                                                            Adult entertainment
       If you think nightlife in Zurich is just drinking and clubbing,
       you’re wrong. Besides the many clubs with different kinds                                                                                                                                                    If you are looking for sins of the flesh, and then
       of disco music there are of course places for classical                                                                                                                                                      probably you’re male, Zurich offers what you can expect
       dancing. Zurich In Your Pocket has the lowdown for                                                                                                                                                           of a city of its size. In Switzerland prostitution is legal,
       passionate salsa and tango dancers: we tell you where                                                                                                                                                        so in Zurich you can find everything from strip bars to
       to find an audience and a slippery floor. Milongas, by the                                                                                                                                                   brothels. Street prostitution is allowed only in certain
       way, are tango events.                                            Born in the eighties? You have to be that old to dance at                                                                                  areas - for example at Häringstrasse in Niederdorf and
                                                                         Bellevue club.                                                                                                          starting September in Altstetten in the so called sex
       Salsa                                                             Bellevue F-4, Rämistrasse 6, tel. +41 44 251 33 40,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    boxes. At the infamous Sihlquai street prostitution will
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    then be prohibited.
       Fiesta para bailar (Famba’r) C-2, Militärstrasse         Yet another house club! That was
       84, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 43 243 80 88. Well, it’s not              our first thought when we heard the club Bellevue was to open                                                                              Broadly speaking you have two options: most of the
       really a salsa party - we’d call the music played here Latin      last autumn. But we have to say, we like this one. The lines of                                                                            strip clubs - which are called nightclubs or cabarets - are
       mix - but there’ll be salsa tunes for sure, and if you are        coloured lights on the walls give the Bellevue something of a                                                                              located in the Niederdorf part of the old town or around
       generally into Latin music, the Famba’r is a really good          retro disco touch, while the music is house in all its variations                                                                          Langstrasse west of the main train station. What you can
       place to go. Actually not just on Saturdays. Q Dancing            - all very danceable. This club is for adults, minimum age is                                                                              expect there are expensive drinks (i.e. 20Sfr for a beer)
       on Saturdays 20:00-05:00. Admission usually free.                 25. You will find the entrance on the rear side of the building,    It’s coming up at Jade club!                        and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until
                                                                         actually on Freieckstrasse. Q Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - late.                                                                                 they are entirely naked.
       Salsamania (X-tra Club) D-1 / M-7, Limmatstrasse                                                                                                                                                             Brothels, sex and sauna clubs are generally situated
       118, 8 Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 448 15 00,                        Club Hiltl D-3, St. Annagasse 16, 8Rennweg, tel. +41                Kanzlei C-3, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.                   in the suburbs or just outside the city. In the city you find
       www.x-tra .ch. Big party with two dance floors, the               44 227 70 00, A bar during daytime,              +41 44 291 63 11, The Kanzlei is one                   such establishments around Häringstrasse in Niederdorf
       main one is dedicated to salsa and bachata, the smaller           this venue doubles as a club at night. The location is central,     of the dinosaurs of the city’s clubs. Located in a former gym          and around Dienerstrasse in the Langstrasse district.
       one to salsa cubana, merengue and reaggaeton. Q                   the crowd mixed and the programme varied. Every Thursday            hall at Helvetiaplatz, its dance floor has been a magnet for a
       Dancing on Thursdays from 21:00. Admission 15Sfr                  is students night. On Fridays they play mixed club music            young party crowd for more than a decade - and it actually still       As in other places, many prosititutes work because they
       (ID required).                                                    (minimum age of 25) and yes, there is quite some flirting           is. On Fridays the minimum age is usually 23 and the music is          have few other income options or, even worse, because
                                                                         on the dance floor. Saturdays r’n’b and hip hop is the ace          mainly disco and charts, while on Saturdays r’n’b and hip hop          they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly
       Tango / Milongas                                                  in the hole. And even on Sundays they party here until the          are on the DJ’s turntables. Q Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 04:00.            likely to be victims of human trafficking. In the summer
       Ta n g o A r g e n t i n o ( C l u b S i l b a n d o )            early hours.QOpen Mon - Wed 17:00 - 24:00 (Bar/Lounge),                                                                                    of 2010, several Zurich pimps received prison sentences
       Förrlibuckstrasse 62 , 8 Förrlibuckstrasse,                       Thu - Sun 23:00 - late. Admission Thu 10Sfr, Fri 15Sfr, Sat         Kaufleuten D-3, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse,                       for extreme violence against their prostitutes.
       www.silbando .ch. This milonga takes place in the                 25Sfr, Sun 15Sfr, otherwise free. A                                 tel. +41 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten .com. The
                                                                                                                                             Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Maxim F-4, Schoffelgasse 2, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44
       Silbando dance school. They offer lessons in different                                                                                                                                                       261 70 30, On the stage of
       styles, but Friday night it’s strictly tango. Q Dancing on        Die Zukunft C-2, Dienerstrasse 33, 8Helvetiaplatz,                  the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up almost every
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    the Maxim in Niederdorf the ladies have been stripping since
       Fridays from 22:00. Admission 10Sfr.                              tel. +41 43 535 60 13, ‘The Future’ is a            weekday to party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    1931. Sit on one of the sofas grouped around the stage
                                                                         small club in a Langstrasse district basement, and is Zurich’s      sounds (sometimes r’n’b and hip hop). Dress to impress is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    or at the bar, relax and enjoy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. A
       Zeughaus Milonga (Restaurant Zeughaushof)                         premier space for freaky electro, house and crossover party         the motto, and for some people here looking the part seems
       C-2, Kanonengasse 20, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41                    styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage between two             to be very important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a            Moulin Rouge F-3, Mühlegasse 14,
       44 445 70 10, A                    buildings next to the Bar 3000. Getting past the doormen is         classy night out. If you don’t make it past the bouncers into          8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 262 07 30,
       lively milonga with mainly young dancers. The DJ plays            sometimes difficult: you just have to fit to the crowd already      the club, there are a restaurant and two bars (Pelikan and             w w w .nig htclub - m oulinr ouge .ch. D e c o ra te d
       everything from classic to tango-nuevo and electronic             inside. Once you are in, you will find revellers who don’t tire     Hof) in the Kaufleuten complex as well. There are often                traditionally with red leather sofas, columns and table
       tango. Q Dancing on Tuesdays from 19:30. Admission                of partying until the break of dawn.QOpen Thu 23:00 - late,         concerts before the parties. Q Open 23:00 - 04:00, every               lamps, the Moulin Rouge has been entertaining gentlemen
       10Sfr, incl. a drink.                                             Fr & Sat 24:00 - late. Bar 3000 open Wed - Sat 17:00 - late.        2nd Mon 21:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 23:00 - 05:00, Sun & Wed              for more than 25 years. Centrally located. Q A
                                                                         Admission around 20Sfr, Thu free. X                                 closed. Admission around 25Sfr. AEX

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                    August - September 2013
46         GAY ZURICH                                                                                                                                                                                                       ZURICH NORD                                                47

     Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian             Männerzone C-2, Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz,                          The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and
     capital and is in general quite gay-friendly. What better       tel. +41 43 243 30 43, A gay sex                     Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zurich Nord. The
     proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor       shop with fetish articles during the week (Tue to Fri 12:00 -            districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and
     in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant gay and lesbian scene was one         19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the Männerzone (men’s zone)                merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now
     of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of      turns into a very popular gay bar on Fridays and particularly            home to many international companies, the trade fair, some
     course, some of the gay/lesbian venues are cool places to       Saturdays. It’s men only and tends to be 30 and up, though               hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely
     hang out even if you’re hetero.                                 there’s no official rule on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing,        don’t have to go to the city centre (even though it’s close) to
                                                                     which maybe fits the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find                have a good night out. Check out our favourites below:
     Zurich’s gay and lesbian calendar has several major             here. Q Open Fri & Sat 21:00 - 02:30.
     events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a
     Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called            Predigerhof F-3, Mühlegasse 15, 8 Rudolf-Brun                            Restaurants
     Zurich Pride Festival since 2010, this is a huge event          Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 29 85,                       Asian Place (Renaissance Zürich Hotel)
     with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march through       The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure           Thurgauerstrasse 101, 8Glattpark, tel. +41 44 874
     the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival shows          bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order                57 21, The umbrella-like lamps on                 A touch of cow here and there - but vegan dishes on the
     gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards        one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and          the ceiling and the wood-cladded walls make for an agreeable         menu: Le Muh.                                                 PD
     a prize to a young director. But the lesbian and gay            choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed                   Asian atmosphere here - not to forget the all-Asian and
     scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re     landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff            attentive staff. But the pan-Asian food is more than plain           the name might imply. The cuisine matches the interior: a
     looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian     for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay             agreeable: the taster menu we took was bursting with flavours.       modern take on Swiss and international dishes. The menu
     clubbing or venues of a more raunchy kind, you’ll find it       here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision              Be it the seabrass with the hot chilli and Thai-basil sauce or       changes daily and most ingredients are sourced locally.
     in Zurich. Two of the city’s iconic gay clubs closed early      song contest. Ask for the free wireless internet access. Q               the beef with ginger and green onions - it was all excellent. So     Neither the prime burger nor the tartar gave us any reason
     this year - but happily new ones have opened, so there          Open 14:00 - 02:00.                                                      as a fan of Asian cuisine, the extra travel to get here is well      whatsoever to complain. There are also vegetarian and even
     is hope. Check out the websites or ask in some of the                                                                                    worth it (tram N°10 or 11 to Glattpark). It’s closer than Asia.      vegan options. Q Open 06:30 - 24:00, breakfast: 06:30 -
     bars too.                                                                                                                                Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00.              10:30. (28 - 52Sfr). AB
                                                                                                                                              Closed Sun. A
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Rolli’s Steakhouse O-2, Schaffhauserstrasse 352,
     Cafés & Bars                                                                                                                             Kai N-1, Ellen-Widmann-Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon,                     8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 311 28 80, www.rollis
     Cranberry F-3, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel.                                                                                            tel. +41 43 538 42 47, Situated close to     A very popular steak house: if you are a
     +41 44 261 27 72, Campari is a                                                                                         the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar with a    meat lover, this is the place to go - beef, pork, lamb, they have
     major theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most                                                                                  modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor belt: sit at the     it all. But don’t forget to book a place in advance. All steaks
     famous Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You                                                                                           counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or uramaki running by.      are served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself.
     can certainly order campari soda, but the team will make                                                                                 Or simply ask the chef on the other side to make your favourite      Which also means there is no one else to blame if your steak
     you most any other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a                                                                               creation. There are tables as well and a lot more than just sushi:   is overdone. Steaks come with fries and three homemade
     buzzing bar for gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly.                                                                                 menu deals, fried noodles, meat... Saturday night there is all       sauces. The menu features pasta as well - but come on, who
     There are occasional theme parties. Check out the (mainly                                                                                you can eat sushi for 59Sfr - book seats in advance. QOpen           needs pasta if there’s meat? Q Open 09:00 - 23:30, kitchen
     German) website for some useful gay links. QOpen 17:00                                                                                   11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.         11:00 - 22:00, Sun closed. (30 - 55Sfr). AB
     - 24:00. A                                                                                                                               Kitchen open until 22:00 (22 - 34Sfr). AB

     Heldenbar L- 6, Provitref f, Sihlquai 240,                                                                                               Le Muh (Swissôtel) O-2, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof
     8 Quellenstrasse, www .heldenbar .ch. Here you’re                                                                                        Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 317 33 91, Since
     off the beaten track and on the territory of the non-                                                                                    the complete make over in 2011 the setting here is modern                The very best of
     commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar) which                                                                                   and really enjoyable, somewhere between business and
     only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely non-profit                                                                                    casual - but definitely a far cry from the cowshed atmosphere            Chinese, Japanese
     affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes           Pink meets politics at the Pride Festival.       Zurich Pride Festival
     totally amateur, the style of music changes from week to                                                                                                                                                          and Thai cuisines.
     week. If you don’t want to dance, step outside with your beer                                                                              Nightlife
     for a chat on the banks of the River Limmat just behind the
     venue. Or take up a table-football challenge. Q Open Wed        Clubs & Parties                                                            Coop er ’s Pub S c h a f f h a u s e r s t r a s s e 3 5 9,            SPECIALS
     20:00 - 01:00. No admission.                                    Heaven F-3, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke,                            8 Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 76 261 00 30,
                                                                     www.heavenclub .ch. It was sad news this spring: the              Located just next to Oerlikon
                                                                     T&M, a gay club where generations of gay men had spent                     train station (and in walking distance of the Swissôtel
                                                                     half their tender years, had to close. But we have witnessed               and the Courtyard Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey
       Resources                                                     a resurrection. Heaven opened soon after, just a few blocks                barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an
                                                                     away. The new team running this cosy club promise music                    Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have
       Rainbowline , tel. +41 848 80 50 80, www                      from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep                 Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on
       .rainbowline .ch. Rainbowline of fers telephone               house. Q Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00.                                     TV and and serve really affordable and we have to say
       counseling on gay and lesbian issues such as safe sex                                                                                    delicious burgers (13 - 21Sfr). There are also some steak
       or homophobic violence on +41 848 80 50 80 from               Rage Wagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www .rage .ch.                             variations, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally
       19:00 to 21:00 from Mon to Thu (female counselors on          Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works -                  concerts. Cheers! Q Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 -
       Mon). Counseling is in German, but many counselors            darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector c is                  02:00, Sat 13:45 - 02:00, Sun closed BK
       speak some English and definitely enough to be of help        fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes.
       in case of violence or another emergency. Rates are           Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station             Jaime El Barco N -1 , Otto - Schüt z-Weg 5,
       normal local rates.                                           or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the                 8 Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 310 21 70,
                                                                     weekend. Q Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00        The Jaime is a bar with a South American                                       Renaissance Zurich Hotel
       Zürigay / online magazine,                      - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. 13-20Sfr. NX                                   touch in Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot                               Thurgauerstrasse 101 Zürigay is a Zurich-centred gay online                                                                                   panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the
       community with English-language content. There’s a chat       Tanzleila K-6, Club Exil, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau,                     cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard day of
       area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and Tanzleila is a women-only dance party,                   walking or working. There is table football and darts - quite
       infos on gay venues. You have to register for access, a       sounds mixed only by DJanes. It’s not only lesbian, but a                  some entertainment in this part of the city. QOpen 09:00                           
       standard membership is free.                                  good place if you are. Q Every first Sunday of the month in                - 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. E
                                                                     Exil club - check website.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                     August - September 2013
48         WHAT TO SEE                                                                                                                                                                                                 WHAT TO SEE                                        49

     Zurich’s largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand           Giacometti murals E-3, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai                 17:00). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron
     and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms.      3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. In the entrance hall to the city’s           saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche              Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co
     It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries          police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s magnificent            and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands,
     showing international art. Admission to many places is           murals (1923 - 1925) adorn the vaulted ceiling and the           taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor
     free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by     walls. Opening hours are quite short. QOpen 9:00 - 11:00,        Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to
     reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr.       14:00 - 16:00. Admission free, ID required.                      found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from
     Museums are usually closed on Mondays.                                                                                            his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren
                                                                      Grossmünster F-4, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus.                  feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar
                                                                      The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster         Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, some
     Main sights                                                      are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over      made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with
     If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights        Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (4/2Sfr           museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Q Open
     represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the            admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 -         10:00 - 18:00.
     Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it
     the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and                                                                            Lindenhof E-3, 8Rathaus. This idyllic square on a little
     Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches.              Lake Zurich                                                     hill in Zurich’s centre used to be an important place. The
     Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot                                                                        Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would
     today, while the central police station is another unlikely                                                                       stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica
     lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its                                                                             Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse
     entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto                                                                        leading down and out of the square. The view from here over
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Artists, scientists, political visionaries - Zurich has
     Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not                                                                         the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in        been home to some of the greatest and most original
     man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak.                                                                                 a game of chess at the back of the square.                         minds of the last century or two. You can follow their
                                                                                                                                                                                                          footsteps, see many of the houses they lived and worked in
                                                                                                                                                                                                          and the graves where they are laid to rest. We’ve listed the
                                                                                                                                                                                                          sites for you, which also include museums and even a pub!
                                                                                                                                                                                                          The genius par excellence, Albert Einstein, studied
                                                                                                                                                                                                          natural sciences from 1896 to 1900 at the Polytechnikum,
                                                                                                                                                                                                          today’s Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), where he later
                                                                                                                                                                                                          became professor before being awarded the Nobel prize
                                                                                                                                                                                                          in physics in 1921. Some of the new arrivals fleeing the
                                                                       The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk                                                                      First World War had revolutions on their minds. Marxists
                                                                       along the shores is a must if you’re in Zurich, whatever the                                                                       and future Russian revolutionaries Vladimir Lenin and his
                                                                       season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along                                                                               wife Nadezhda Krupskaya spent a year of their exile in
                                                                       the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred                                                                              Zurich. The couple Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball were
                                                                       metres a park with trees and a lawn fills the expanse                                                                              to trigger a revolution right in the middle of Zurich itself:
                                                                       between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese,                                                                            the anti-everything art movement Dada. Both active on
                                                                       also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden                                                                                stage, they were forced to leave Germany in 1915 due to
                                                                       is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or                                                                         their criticism of the war. Swiss artist and dancer Sophie
                                                                       playing sports. There is also a playground for kids.            In Zurich’s mediaeval heart - the view from Wasserkirche
                                                                                                                                       across to Fraumünster.                       Zurich Tourism (BM)   Täuber was also part of the Dada circle, but went her own
                                                                       Continuing you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with                                                                               ways. She began to paint in an abstract geometric style,
                                                                       some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway                                                                           thus laying the ground for constructivist art. Another war
                                                                       station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or           Uetliberg . Th e Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little                  refugee, Irish author James Joyce, lived in Zurich from 1915
                                                                       train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake          mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain              to 1919, where he wrote large parts of his modern classic
                                                                       is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start     on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869             Ulysses and died in 1941 (photo above shows his grave).
                                                                       at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge          metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city.          The furnishings of the James Joyce Pub are from the Jury pub
                                                                       port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the          There is a lookout tower on top bringing you to exactly            in Dublin, mentioned in Ulysses. Renegade psychoanalyst
                                                                       Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field        900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the            Carl Gustav Jung worked at the Burghölzli psychiatric
                                                                       where many cultural events take place. If you go just a         city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular       asylum in Zurich from 1905 to 1909. Thomas Mann, author
                                                                       little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of       local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S 10       of epics such as the Buddenbrocks and Nobel prize winner,
                                                                       the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik, red factory,         from track 1 or 2) from the main station twice an hour             also had close ties to Zurich and died here in 1955.The
                                                                       marked by the red brick factory chimney.                        (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional           Thomas Mann Archive runs a small museum about his life.
                                                                                                                                       ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich, because
                                                                       Lake Zurich Cruises (Lake Zurich Navigation                     the Uetliberg is not within the city zone 110 (buy a 1 - 2         Sites and addresses
                                                                       Company ZSG) E-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz,                    additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From          Albert Einstein
                                                                       tel. +41 44 487 13 33, The Lake Zurich              the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the            Memorial plaque, Unionsstrasse 4, 8 Hottingerplatz
     The towers of Grossmünster, Zurich’s landmark.                                                                                    peak with the lookout tower (free access) and a restaurant.
                                          Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and                                                                               Vladimir Lenin and Nadezhda Krupskaya
                                                                       the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’     You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Memorial plaque, Spiegelgasse 14, 8 Rathaus
     Fraumünster E-4, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus.                     uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-            N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop.
     Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the                  Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz-Zürichhorn are included in          From there two different paths lead to the top, both taking        Dada art movement
     magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by                                                                         about an hour. To follow the Denzlerweg, walk at first             Cabaret Voltaire, Spiegelgasse 1, 8 Rathaus
                                                                       any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s
     French artist Marc Chagall in the early nineteen-seventies,       not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip.          towards the restaurant Kolbenhof (follow the signs). After         Constructivists
     or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone            There are four different ones: the longest lasts four hours     that, the path goes into the forest and rises steeply with         Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8 Sihlstrasse
     by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more         taking you all the way to Rapperswil at the other end of        lots of wooden stairs - at the end there is even a ladder          James Joyce
     than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s      the lake and back, the shortest is 90 minutes. They             and a chain to help you climb the final rock. A bit easier         Memorial plaque, Universitätsstrasse 38, 8 Haldenbach
     abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess           all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue        but also steep is the Laternenpfad leading straight into           James Joyce Foundation,
     had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times             several times a day. The shortest cruise for example            the forest after the final stop - it’s illuminated at night. An    Friedhof (Cemetery) Fluntern, Zürichbergstr. 189, 8 Zoo
     in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner       starts every 30 minutes from 11:00 to 19:30. Tickets            easier way is to take the train and get off one stop before        James Joyce Pub, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8 Rennweg
     of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof) was used to               and timetables are available at the port. Q Tickets for         the top at Ringlikon, from where a gently climbing path            Thomas Mann
     limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide          roundtrips 8.20-24Sfr, children half the price, discount        leads you in roughly 40 minutes to the lookout point on            Thomas-Mann-Archiv, Schönberggasse 15. Open Wed
     hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due.      with Zurich public transport day cards.                         the Uetliberg. You do not need hiking equipment, but we            & Sat 14:00 - 16:00, admission free. 8 Kantonsschule
     No visiting during Sunday services. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.                                                                          recommend good shoes and staying on the path.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                           August - September 2013
50         WHAT TO SEE                                                                                                                                                                                                                              WHAT TO SEE                                       51

                                                                                                                                                                    N a t i o n a l M u s e u m (L a n d e s m u s e u m) E - 2 ,
      Zurich in 48 hours                                                                   Museums                                                                  Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218                    Markets
                                                                                           Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with             65 11, It will take you a while to

                                                                     Zurich Tourism (MR)
                                                                                           all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the           get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but         Flea Market Kanzlei C-3, Kanzleistrasse 56,
                                                                                           ones we like best. You can find more information in English              hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights,        8 Helvetiaplatz, www .flohmarktkanzlei .ch. Q
                                                                                           on all the museums on                             sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some          Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
                                                                                                                                                                    bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic
                                                                                           C e n t r e L e C o r b u s i e r G - 7, H ö s c h g a s s e             areas: the first section shows the history of migration and        Fruit & Veg Markets, www.zuercher-maerkte
                                                                                           8, 8 Höschgasse, tel. +41 4 4 38 3 64 70,                                settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual         .ch. Zurich’s four outdoor food markets offer fresh, often
                                                                                  The Centre Le Corbusier is                    history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and     organically grown produce from the region, mostly sold
                                                                                           a museum about the famous Swiss architect, by the famous                 the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits          by the farmers themselves. You’ll also find fish from Lake
                                                                                           architect. It was his last building, finished in 1967, two years         explanations in English are available. In the west wing of the     Zurich, different meats and specialities from further afield
                                                                                           after his death. Set in wooded grounds just next to the lake,            museum the exhibition Swiss Furniture and Interiors shows          like Italian salami or Greek cheese.
                                                                                           it’s a colourful, light piece of art in itself. The collection brought   11 period rooms, among them for example a living room from
                                                                                           together by Heidi Weber, who commissioned the building,                  the mediaeval Castle Wiggen. The armour tower displays             Bürkliplatz (E-5), Tue & Fri, 06:00 - 11:00
                                                                                           shows that Le Corbusier was not just an architect, but also a            arms of national and international importance. Besides             Helvetiaplatz (C-2), Tue & Fri, 06:00 - 11:00
      You’re in town for only two days? Too short, of course!                              graphic artist, a painter, a sculptor and a furniture designer. Q        that there are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see       Oerlikon (O-2), Wed 06:00 - 11:00, Sat 06:00 - 12:00
      But here is our Zurich-in-48-hours suggestion.                                       Open July until September, Sat & Sun 14:00 - 17:00.                      Culture & Events chapter of this guide). English-language          Rathausbrücke (F-3), Sat 06:00 - 12:00
                                                                                                                                                                    guided tour through the permanent collection every Tue at
      On your first day, start with a stroll through the old town,                         Kindercity Chlirietstrasse12, Volkestwil, tel. +41 43                    11:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed              Rosenhofmarkt F-3, Rosenhof, 8 Rathaus,
      an absolute must for every Zurich visitor. Our one-hour                              204 30 60, A science city for kids                    Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.                                   Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
      stroll (p. 47) for instance will take you to all the main                            aged 1 to 12. See page 58.                                                                                                                  - 17:00.
      sights like the mediaeval Lindenhof Square as well as                                                                                                         Shedhalle south of D-7, Seestrasse 395, 8Rote
      the churches St. Peter, Grossmünster and Fraumünster.                                                                                                         Fabrik, tel. +41 44 481 59 50. Shedhalle defines itself
      On a sunny day, climb up the the tower of Grossmünster                                                                                                        as a ’cultural think tank’ and shows visual art which is         Tram Museum and Vintage Tram Forchstrasse
      church (p. 48) and enjoy the view over the city. After the                                                                                                    often provocative and political, engaging with controversial     260, 8Burgwies, tel. +41 44 380 21 62, www.tram-
      stroll, walk over to Paradeplatz, for a coffee break at café                                                                                                  and neglected subjects. Recent exhibitions included The Uniforms, ticket machines, model-trams and of
      Sprüngli (p. 40), Zurich’s most famous confectioner. Don’t                                                                                                    F-Word, in which four artists grappled with what feminism        course lots of old trams from days gone by are on show in this
      forget to try their trademark luxemburgerlis, macaroons                                                                                                       could mean today or Im/Possible Community, which                 one-time tram depot. It’s quite a hands-on exhibition, so good
      in all kinds of flavours.                                                                                                                                     asked questions about individualism, migration and what          for kids, but also has a few things to say about how traffic
      Thus fortified, you’re ready for some action before lunch:                                                                                                    makes consensus or collective action possible. Shedhalle         systems shaped the city - unfortunately in German mostly.
      take to the lake (p. 48). From Bellevue walk along the                                                                                                        breaks with traditional forms, both in the art shown and with    The last weekend of every month, a vintage tram brings you
      lakeside until you reach the park Chinawiese and maybe                                                                                                        the institution of joint curatorship practiced since 1994.       there. It starts just off Bahnhofstrasse, on Usteristrasse
      drop into the Chinagarten for an unexpected glimpse                                                                                                           Q Open 14:00 - 18:00, Sat & Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Mon &             between McDonald’s and Globus. Q Open Wed, Sat & Sun
      of Chinese culture. To get back to Bellevue, take the                                                                                                         Tue closed. 5/3Sfr.                                              13:00 - 17:00. 10/5Sfr.
      ship (ship stop Casino to Bürkliplatz). There it’s time
      for a Zurich-style lunch: have the city’s most famous
      bratwurst (veal sausage) at Sternen Grill (p. 32). Now
      how about some culture? The Kunsthaus (p. 50) with
      its excellent collection of modern art is a good choice.
      Feeling excited? Your only dinner in town is coming up!
      For hearty Swiss fare like zürcher geschnetzeltes in a                               Turrets and towers - the Swiss National Museum.                   ZIYP
      down-to-earth atmosphere, try Zeughauskeller (p. 39)
      or Rheinfelder Bierhalle (p. 39). If the cheese specialites
      fondue or raclette are what you’re after, try Le Dézaley
      (p. 38) - or simply take a few minutes to read through                               Kulturama - Museum of Mankind H- 4,
      our restaurant chapter and choose something that suits                               Englischviertelstrasse 9, 8Hottingerplatz, tel. +41 44
      your taste. For an after-dinner drink, move over to the                              260 60 44, The enormous wooden                                                                                              Titlis – Eternal Snow and Glaciers
                                                                                           bone-come-bench lying in front of this museum’s entrance is the
      vibrant Langstrasse area with its countless bars: try La
      Catrina (p. 42) for example. You prefer more class? Try                              first clue as to what awaits the visitor here. But it’s more than
                                                                                           just bones: one exhibition sequence shows the evolution of life
                                                                                                                                                                      We show you the BEST…
      the recently opened Aura bar (p. 41).
                                                                                           right up to humans and the first civilisations, the other the cycle
      On your second day make sure you get a good break-                                   of human life - with lots of exhibits, not just bones. There is also
      fast, because now you’ll have to climb a mountain. Or at                             a discovery trail for children, with much to touch, listen to, look
      least ride up it. Take the S10 train from the main station                           at and measure. Good for younger and older children, café on
      to Uetliberg (p. 49), Zurich’s own little mountain. Up on                            site. QOpen 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/7Sfr.
      top, walk to the peak (10 minutes) and climb the lookout
      tower for an incredible view towards the Alps and the city.                          Kunsthaus G-4, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41
      You can get back the same way or hike down to a halfway                              44 253 84 84, Zurich’s major art                                Zürich City-Tours              Lucerne Excursion        Rigi – Queen of the Mountains     Pilatus – Golden Roundtrip
      train stop - or let your feet take you all the way down.                             museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss
      In the afternoon a visit of Giacometti’s murals is on the
      schedule (p. 48). They are something like Zurich’s secret
                                                                                           artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest
                                                                                           collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his
                                                                                                                                                                      and a lot more of beautiful Switzerland!
      main sight, located right in the entrance hall of the police                         trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like
      headquarters. After taking in their warm colours, you                                Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye                                                                                Information & Bookings:
      might be ready for a small shopping tour on renowned                                 and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile
      Bahnhofstrasse (for shopping see p. 59). Alternatively                               temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see chapter                                                                        
      relax on a bench in the nearby old botanical garden                                  Culture & Events). English language audioguides available.
       - and invent an excuse for your boss, so you can stay                               Cafe and shop on the ground floor. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,                                                                        
      another day.                                                                         Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission for collection                                                                             Phone: +41 (0)44 710 50 50
                                                                                           15/10Sfr, for exhibitions 22/17Sfr, combined ticket 25/18Sfr.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                                         August - September 2013
52         WHAT TO SEE                                                                                                                                                                              OLD-TOWN STROLL                                                                 53

                                                                                                                                                                                                             at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main
      Sightseeing tours                                              Gardens & Parks                                                     Stroll through the old town (1hr)                                   throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf (see page 11), the other
                                                                     Chinese Garden (Chinagarten) G-7, Bellerivestrasse                                                                                      part of the old town. The cultural references come hard and
      Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour E-1, Bus                     144, 8Fröhlichstrasse, tel. +41 44 380 31 51. This                                                                                      fast now. On the right is Cabaret Voltaire, from where
      Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. +41 44                 full-blown Chinese garden is a gift from Zurich’s Chinese                                                                               the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set
      710 50 50, A city tour in            sister city Kunming in gratitude for the help Zurich provided                                                                           off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916.
      an air-conditioned coach - including a short stroll through    in restoring Kunming’s water facilities.The garden’s major
      the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-          theme are the so-called Three Friends of Winter, the pine                                                                               A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is
      pinion railway up into the residential area Zürichberg. In     tree, the bamboo and the plum.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.                                                                                      Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at
      little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse       Admission 4/1Sfr.                                                                                                                       least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee
      and the financial district, the old guild houses and the                                                                                                                                               roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your
      universities. There is a live commentary in English and        Villa & Park Patumbah I-7, Zolllikerstrasse 128,                                                                                        nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass
      German, audioguides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and           8Fröhlichstrasse. Smoking does have its advantages.                                                                                     the Bodega Española on your right, that is if you don’t drop
      Japanese available.QStarts daily 10:30 & 13:00 at              This opulent villa was financed by smokers - it was built                                                                               in for a beer and a plate of tapas. Here one of the few Swiss
      the bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station.      by Carl Fürchtegott Grob who made his huge fortune with                                                                                 authors of world renown, Max Frisch, met with other writers
      Tickets available on the spot, reservation by phone            tobacco plantations in South-East Asia. For his home in Zurich                                                                          in the 1940s to 1960s.
      recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr.                                 he hired architects Chiodera and Tschudy in the 1880s and
      Biketour - CityLandRiver E-2, Hauptbahnhof,                    provided them with an almost infinite budget. The result was                                                                            A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque
      8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 77 454 65 90, info@                    a magnificent villa with an explosion of styles. After long years                                                                       - style abbey, the somewhat austere Grossmünster with
      toptrek .ch, www.toptrek .ch. A three- to four-hour            of neglect, the villa has just been painstakingly restored and                                                                          it’s double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires
      cycling tour off the beaten track: cycle with a guide from     parts are open to the public, as is the English landscape garden                                                                        added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the
      the old town towards Uetliberg mountain and back. The          surrounding it. Take one of the wooden chairs available, set it                                                                         third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful
      route leads through popular recreation areas, is mostly        up in the shade of a tree and while away a summer afternoon.                                                                            Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. If you trace
      free of traffic and offers unexpected views of Zurich. There   Q Park open every day 06:00 - 22:00, villa open from 23. Aug:                                                                           a line between the two münsters, the Wasserkirche or
      is also a city bike tour on offer, check       14:00 - 17:00, Thu & Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Mon & Tue closed.                                                                               water church comes to lie in the middle, completing the holy
      QThe tour starts every Tue & Thu at 09:00 at the main                                                                                                                                                  trinity. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard
      train station. Book by 14:00 one day in advance by phone                                                                                                                                               down to the Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery
      or mail. 60/30Sfr a person, bike included.                                                                                                                                                             by the river and then cross the bridge to Fraumünster
                                                                                                                                         Find some peace in the old town’s alleys.
                                                                                                                                                                                                             (see page 42) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows
      Segway City Tours , tel. +41 848 734 929,                                                                                                                                                              by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Explore Zurich on a Segway                                                                                 Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the River            Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s
      - a two-wheeled, self-balancing electric vehicle. This                                                                             Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and               other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes
      slightly eccentric guided tour in English and German                                                                               heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third.           walk further along the river.
      takes two and a half hours and includes a 40-minute                                                                                We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor,
      instruction on how to drive the Segway. Minimum age is                                                                             Rudolf - Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from
      16 and you need a driving licence (car/motorbike).QEvery                                                                           Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down
      Sat & Sun at 14:00. Book by phone at least one day in                                                                              Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s
      advance. Other days on request. 120Sfr.                                                                                            south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop,
                                                                                                                                         head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream
      Stories of the Old Town - Guided walk E-2,                                                                                         along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg).
      Tourist Office Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof,                                                                                  Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some
      tel. +41 44 215 40 88, www .zuerich .com. A                                                                                        miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the
      professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk                                                                             restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and
      through the old town of Zurich. Discover the city’s history                                                                        well worth a quick stop, on the left.
      and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and
      German. Good choice if you really want to see the old                                                                              Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to Lindenhof (see
      town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks ask                                                                            page 43), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left
      at the tourist information at the main station. Reservation                                                                        into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of
      by phone recommended.QStarts at the tourist office at                                                                              Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here
      the main railway station. Daily at 15:00, Sat & Sun also                                                                           and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age.
      11:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zurich Card.                                                                                 Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who
                                                                                                                                         are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess.
                                                                                                                                         Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down
                                                                     19th century opulence - Villa Patumbah in Seefeld.            AM    Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which
                                                                                                                                         mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

                                                                                                                                         Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see page
                                                                     Churches                                                            45), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most
                                                                     See Main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the            peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, one of the
                                                                     churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster.                              alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the
                                                                                                                                         second bridge,      Rathausbrücke, also known as the
                                                                     St. Peter E-4, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz. St.                vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held
                                                                     Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four       here on Saturdays.
                                                                     sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter
                                                                     of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres. The first mayor of           On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town
                                                                     Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his        hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left, a good
                                                                     tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church.          place for an outdoor coffee if the weather is friendly. Our
                                                                     The choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church               rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram
                                                                     built in 1230. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,              lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find,
                                                                     Sun 11:00 - 17:00.                                                  by the way, one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                August - September 2013
54         DAY TRIPS                                                                                                                                                                                                           DAY TRIPS                                 55

     If you have some more time on your hands you                     there is a sea lion show and a big adventure playground.         Schoggiland (Chocolate Factory Maestrani)
     might want to explore a bit further afield and leave             Combine the trip with a cruise on the lake and get there         Toggenburgerstrasse 41, Flawil, tel. +41 71 228 38 11,                                                    wat bigges
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    er      tf
     Zurich for a day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to       by ship! Q Take the trains S5 or S15 with destination   Thanks to an 80-metre long gallery                                                      ww park in un an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    w.a              d
     discover Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic          Rapperswil (40 minutes). Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission           above the production facilities, you can watch chocolate                                                         lpam Europ
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            are     e!
     destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put                14/6Sfr.                                                         production right through the process at the Maestrani
     together a selection of our favourites.                                                                                           chocolate factory. Video terminals explain the different
                                                                                                                                       production steps. Every Wednesday (13:45) there is a
                                                                      Culture & Heritage                                               guided tour which takes around 1.5 h and is in German and
     Animal parks                                                     Bruno Weber’s Skulpturenpark (sculpture park)                    English (7Sfr). And of course there is a shop selling all the
     Knies Kinderzoo Oberseestrasse, Rapperswil, tel.                 Zur Weinrebe, Dietikon, tel. + 41 44 740 02 71,                  sweet treats at inexpensive prices.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
     +41 55 220 67 60, Situated       Architect and artist Bruno Weber’s          Sat 09:00 -12:00 (no production of chocolate). The train to
     on the other end of Lake Zurich, this zoo which belongs to the   (1931 - 2011) passion were huge concrete sculptures:             Flawil takes an hour and leaves 39 minutes past each hour
     Swiss national circus Knie is all laid out for kids. There are   from 1962 onwards he worked constantly on his sculpture          (destination St. Gallen). Once there change to the bus with
     around 400 animals of 44 species, and kids and interested        garden around his home in Dietikon, just outside Zurich. The     destination Bütschwil which drops you off in front of the
     parents can touch and stroke many of them. It’s possible         park features countless of his contemplative sculptures -        factory (stop Maestrani).
     to ride ponies, camels and even elephants. Apart from that       mythical creatures, animal-like beings, mostly colourful and
                                                                      some of them even inhabitable. The highlights are a water        Swiss Museum of Transport (Verkehrshaus)
       Thermal baths & Waterparks
                                                                      garden with a winged dog more than 100 metres long and
                                                                      Weber’s fairytale castle like home - definitely a memorable
                                                                                                                                       Lidostrasse 5, Luzern, tel. +41 41 370 44 44,
                                                                                                                              The Swiss Museum of Transport
                                                                                                                                                                                                         HAVE FUN AND RELAX!
                                                                      experience. Get to Dietikon with the S3 or S9 train (duration    (Verkehrshaus) is the most popular museum in Switzerland.         Show this voucher at the entrance and
                                                                      14 min). From there follow the sculpture path, there are         It tells the story of the development of transport and mobility
                                                                      signs or just follow the sculptures (30 minutes). You can also   by road, rail and water as well as in the air and outer space -
                                                                      take Bus 306 to terminus (Stadthalle), from there follow the
                                                                      sculptures for some minutes. Q Open Wed 13:00 - 18:00,
                                                                                                                                       and how it affects everyday life. More than 3,000 objects like
                                                                                                                                       planes, steam engines and cars on more than 20,000sqm. In         15% discount
                                                                      Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 12/10/8Sfr.                   the Swissarena you can walk around on an aerial photograph
                                                                                                                                       of Switzerland with a scale of 1:20,000 - or be a TV presenter    on the regular Alpamare admission fees.
                                                                                                                                       for a couple of minutes in the communication section and          Valid for maximum 4 persons.
                                                                                                                                       take home a recording of your performance. This museum            Offer valid on weekdays until 22nd December 2013
                                                                                                                                       is very much hands-on, not just things to look at. And in         Offer is not valid with other discounts or special offers.
                                                                                                                                       every section there are special activities for children - a
                                                                                                                                       good choice for the family not just on a rainy day! To get                           Cobra-Code: pocket
                                                                                                                                       there from Zurich, take a train to Luzern (dep. 04 and 35 past
                                                                                                                                       the hour, duration 50 minutes) and then bus N°6, 8 or 24 in
                                                                                                                                       direction Verkehrshaus (10 minutes). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
                                                                                                                                       Admission 30/15Sfr.

                                                                                                                                       Outdoor destinations
       Alpamare Gwattstrasse 12, Pfäffikon SZ, tel. +41                                                                                Climbing Park Kloten (Seilpark) Schluefweg 10,
       55 415 15 15, Alpamare is the                                                                                  Kloten, tel. +41 79 387 09 90, www.seilpark-kloten
       biggest indoor waterpark in Europe, just 45 minutes by                                                                          .ch. Ever wondered what it’s like to be a monkey, swinging
       train from Zurich. There are ten slides with a length of                                                                        through the tree tops? This rope-park is the opportunity to
       more than 1,500 metres and different levels of difficulty,                                                                      find out - if you dare! You can explore a whole area of the
       a wave pool, a river-like pool and a iodine brine bath                                                                          forest walking and climbing along a network of ropes installed
       with massage jets. Alpamare will definitely brighten up                                                                         high above the ground. You need no climbing experience
       a rainy day, not just for kids. Up to five connections per                                                                      whatsoever, as you’ll receive instructions before starting
       hour take you from Zurich to Pfäffikon SZ (SZ means            Riding a typical Swiss steed - Knies Kinderzoo.            PD    off and you remain secured all the time. Trekking or sports
       in canton Schwyz). From there, take bus N°195 to the                                                                            shoes are a good idea. You can choose between different
       Seedamm-Center (no service on Sundays) or walk                                                                                  routes with varying degrees of difficulty. It’s great for kids,
       there in 15 minutes. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat           Einsiedeln Abbey Einsiedeln, tel. +41 55 418 61                  but we have found that parents enjoy monkeying around
       10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A four-hour stay is          11, www.kloster-einsiedeln .ch. Einsiedeln (meaning              just as much... To get there, take an S-train (S7, direction
       39.50/32Sfr. On weekends a surcharge of 3Sfr applies.          ‘hermit’s’) Abbey is one of the finest examples of Baroque       Winterthur) to Kloten, from there it’s a short walk. Q Open
       Get a 15% discount with the voucher in this guide (not         architecture in Switzerland. The Benedictine abbey complex       12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
       valid on weekends).                                            was built from scratch in the early 18th century, replacing      Admission 45/30/17.50Sfr.
                                                                      older buildings going back to the 10th century. The church
       Thermalbad & Spa Zürich C-5,                                   with its opulent, gold and marble interior and the shrine of     Mount Säntis Säntis-Schwebebahn AG, Schwägalp,
       Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse,                  the black madonna is open for visitors, but be considerate       tel. +41 71 365 65 65, w w w .saentisbahn .ch.
       www.thermalbad-zuerich .ch. Zurich’s first thermal             during services. The outstanding library can only be visited     Float up to the highest peak in north-eastern Switzerland
       bath is located in the buildings that once were home to        on a guided tour. The small town of the same name is set         with the Säntis cableway, conquering more than 1,100
       the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring          among wooded hills, close to lake Sihl, just at the edge of      metres of altitude in just 10 minutes. Then enjoy the fantastic
       water that was once sold for drinking as Aqui. There are       the Alps - perfect for a walk. The panorama path that leads      views at more than 2,500 metres above sea level over
       different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars         you to the lake and back in 2.5 hours starts just behind the     the mountains of the Alpstein and the Toggenburg region.
       as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year,       abbey’s stables. There are four to five trains an hour from      In perfect conditions you will be able to see five other
       with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides        Zurich main station which get you there in about an hour,        countries: Germany, Austria, Liechtenstein, France and
       whirlpools, massage jets and resting zones there is a          for most connections you have to change at Wädenswil. Q          Italy! The cableway starts at Schwägalp (at 1,300 metres),
       Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a        Guided tours start at 14:00 (105 minutes) and 17:00 (60          on the peak there is a restaurant. Getting to Schwägalp from
       peeling niche or herbal steam for complete relaxation          minutes) every day except Sundays and cost 15Sfr for adults      Zurich by public transport takes roughly 2.5hrs - ask at the
       (extra fee applies). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission            and 7.50Sfr for children. Unfortunately the tours are only in    SBB counter for the fastest connection. There is at least
       32/16Sfr, children up to 6 years free.                         German. Meeting point is Einsiedeln Tourism, Hauptstrasse        one per hour. Open all year round. Q Runs daily. Cableway
                                                                      85, tel +41 55 418 44 88. No need to book.                       return journey 45/23Sfr.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                        August - September 2013
56         DAY TRIPS                                                                                                                                                                                          ZURICH FOR KIDS                                                   57

     Rheinfall - Europe’s biggest waterfall Neuhausen                                                                                   Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how                 large and small are displayed stuffed or as skeletons:
     am Rheinfall, A trip to the Rheinfall                                                                            to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals              jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. Children love the
     makes for a great day out. Europe’s biggest waterfall is                                                                           may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to           animals, but if they tire of that there’s a sandpit where they
     just a 50-minute train ride from Zurich. Close to the city of                                                                      do with children in Zurich. Some venues are described in               can do their own bit of excavation or giant animal puzzles.Q
     Schaffhausen the water of the River Rhine plunges down an                                                                          more detail in other chapters, follow the references.                  Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed.
     impressive 23 metres on a width of more than 150 metres.                                                                                                                                                  Admission free.
     Two castles or schlösser watch over the waterfall: Schloss
     Laufen overlooks the top of the fall, Schlössli Wörth is                                                                                                                                                  Zurich Zoo J-1, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo,
     situated at the bottom. By train it’s easiest to approach the                                                                                                                                             tel. +41 848 96 69 83, www.zoo .ch. Zurich Zoo is
     falls from Laufen. At Zurich main train station, take one of                                                                                                                                              located on the Zürichberg high above the city. The pride
     the many trains going to Winterthur (Canton Zurich’s second                                                                                                                                               of this zoological garden which was opened in 1929 is
     largest town). In Winterthur take train S33 with destination                                                                                                                                              the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem
     Schaffhausen and get off at the stop Schloss Laufen. After                                                                                                                                                in the Masoala National park in Madagascar on some
     a short walk you arrive at the visitor’s centre, an exhibition                                                                                                                                            10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can
     about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3.50Sfr including access                                                                                                                                            move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by
     to the viewing platform) and at the castle. A boat takes you                                                                                                                                              on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled,
     to the other side of the river (2/1Sfr) and from there to the                                                                                                                                             probably a chameleon is sitting on a branch right next to
     rock in the middle of the waterfall (every ten minutes from                                                                                                                                               you.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Masoala hall opens at 10:00.
     10:00 - 18:00, 8/4Sfr). Stairs lead up the rock where you                                                                                                                                                 Admission 22/16 (16 - 25 years)/11Sfr.
     get a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. On both
     sides of the river there are paths with lookout platforms
     and restaurants - so take some time for a walk. There is         Wild waters at Rheinfall waterfall.                         PD
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Parks & Sports
     an adventure park on the northern side of the falls, where                                                                                                                                                Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention
     you can climb on ropes strung between trees - secured of         Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Getting up                                                                                    swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next
     course. (Open 10:00 - 19:00, 40/32/16Sfr, summer only).          there is quite an exciting adventure: from Stechelberg four                                                                              to Lindenhof (p. 49, E-3) and there is a large one next to
                                                                      sections of cable cars take you up to the peak in just over                                                                              the Chinese garden (G-7). The Gemeinschaftszentren
                                                                      30 minutes. It is possible to hike all the way up, but only       Making sweets at Kindercity: looks pretty tidy so far...         PD    (or GZ), community centres of the city also have good
                                                                      for really experienced hikers. But the region around Mürren                                                                              playgrounds.
                                                                      offers many enjoyable hiking and walking opportunities
                                                                      for less accomplished hikers too. From Zurich, take a                                                                                    Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres), tel.
                                                                      train to Interlaken (change in Bern), at Interlaken change        Museums & Zoos                                                         +41 43 300 60 00, The 17 community
                                                                      to the one to Lauterbrunnen. From there a bus takes               If you’re looking for places to learn and discover stuff, try          centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by
                                                                      you to Stechelberg valley station (approx. 3 hours all            these suggestions.                                                     the city. They function as a meeting point for the residents
                                                                      in all). Maybe combine the trip with a stay in Mürren or                                                                                 of a district and can be visited by anyone for free. They
                                                                      the Interlaken region!QCable car runs daily, first ascent         Sihlwald Wildnispark Alte Sihltalstrasse 38,                           usually have a playground for kids and a little café-bar, many
                                                                      07:25, last descent 17:03. Return fare from Stechelberg           Sihlwald, tel. +41 44 722 55 22,                   offer organised activities and some even have some farm
                                                                      98.60/49.30Sfr.                                                   Sihlwald is a protected forest which is much left to its own           animals to watch and stroke. A visit is sure to be fun for you
                                                                                                                                        devices - so animals and little adventurers feel very much             and your kids, not just because you are likely to meet other
                                                                      Stanserhorn Stansstaderstrasse 19, 6370 Stans,                    at home here. Some animals, like the buzzards, are here of             families there.
                                                                      tel. +41 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn .ch. The                   their own accord, while others - bears, deer, European bisons,
                                                                      Stanserhorn is an easily accessible mountain with                 otters, beavers, wildboar and more - live in enclosures. All           Here we list some cool and more central ones, see
                                                                      spectacular views of central Switzerland’s mountains and          of them are indigenous to Switzerland and can be watched      for all locations. They are usually open 10:00
     You can also go up on foot - Schilthorn.                   PD
                                                                      lakes. You can ride up with a funicular, and the second section   here almost as if in freedom. The forest and most of the               - 18:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 on the weekend:
                                                                      with the world’s first cablecar with an open upper deck, just     enclosures are accessible all the time.QGet there by train
                                                                      opened last Summer. There is room for up to 30 people to          from Zurich’s main train station with the S4 (SZU) to Wildpark-        - GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, +41 44 365 24 40
     Schilthorn - Piz Gloria Schilthornbahn AG, Mürren,               stand and enjoy the ride under the open sky. At the summit        Höfli (enclosures) or Sihlwald (visitor’s centre), in approx. 30       - GZ Wipkingen (on the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a,
     tel. +41 33 856 21 41, www.schilthorn .ch. On the                there’s a revolving restaurant and a panorama trail. The          min plus a walk. Restaurant and visitor’s centre in the park.          +41 44 276 82 80
     Schilthorn, at almost 3000 metres a.s.l. you get an              region also offers plenty of hiking options - for example you                                                                            - GZ Wollishofen (on the lake), Bachstrasse 70, +41 43
     exhilarating view of the highest and most famous trinity         can walk to the top from Stans in about four hours. Getting       Zoological and Paleontological Museums of                              243 11 37
     of the Bernese alps, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (weather          to Stans from Zurich by train takes around 75 minutes.            the University of Zurich G-3, Karl Schmid-Strasse
     permitting!). The top station features the revolving Piz         Change train in Luzern (destination Engelberg or Dallenwil).      4, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. +41 44 634 38 38,                     J o s e f s w i e s e K / L 7, J o s e f s t r a s s e 1 9 7,
     Gloria restaurant which turns full circle in about 55            Q Runs daily 08:15 - 16:45, Fri & Sat until 22:15. Return         www .zm .uzh .ch. A giant sloth waits just beyond the                  8Quellenstrasse. Park with large playing field, playground,
     minutes. The station was the setting for the 1968 James          ticket 68/34/17Sfr.                                               entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction. Animals         small snack bar and kiosk. No admission fees.

                                                                                                                                          T he most e xc it ing Sw iss Family- Center
                                                                                                                                             Play with science (from babies to adults)
                                                                                                                                             The ‘factory‘ (chocolate, bread, cooking, cars, creative)
                                                                                                                                             Outdoor area with driving school
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Fac tor r vat ion
                                                                                                                                             Themed restaurant and Edustore
                                                                                                                                          From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year                  Re s e 3 0 6 0
                                                                                                                                          Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH |                                  0 43 20

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                               August - September 2013
58          ZURICH FOR KIDS                                                                                                                                                                                                          SHOPPING                                           59

     Kindercity Chlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43                                                                                 Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if
     204 30 60, Kindercity is a science                                                                                  not quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhof-             Opening hours
     city for children aged 1 to 12, much more hands-on than                                                                                strasse is well known around the globe as one of the most
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Most shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open
     a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping                                                                                     exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00/20:00. Smaller shops
     in a museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are                                                                                   Swiss and urban design, the area around Langstrasse is a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                including jewellers and shops outside the centre often
     dedicated to topics like the human body, renewable energy                                                                              good spot. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t
                                                                                                                                                                                                                close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings.
     or modern communication, using sight, sound, smell and                                                                                 match other European countries where huge centres are
                                                                                                                                                                                                                On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00
     action to let children discover, accompanied by an adult.                                                                              the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                (or 18:00, departement stores until 20:00). On Sundays
     There is a café, open-air play areas, magic trains and a car                                                                           Sihlcity Shopping Centre, an easily reachable mall opened
                                                                                                                                                                                                                all shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations).
     driving school on the roof - and much more. From Zurich,                                                                               in 2007, is an example of an innovative development -
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
     take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change                                                                                 without being a giant. The malls and best shopping areas
     at Schwerzenbach to bus N°725, get off at Volkiland,                                                                                   of the city are listed here together with other remarkable
     Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes). Q Open daily 10:00 -                                                                                  shops. Remember all shops are closed on Sundays except
     18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes) 27.50Sfr.,                                                                                 at the railway stations.                                          Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse
     activities can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge                                                                                                                                                  and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to
     lane 14.50Sfr (17.50 adults).                                                                                                                                                                            miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example
                                                                      Summer, sunshine, a jump into the water. Yippie!
                                                                                                                      Zurich Tourism (PM)
                                                                                                                                                                                                              with its international clothing brands and boutiques or
     NEW                                                                                                                                                                                                      Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores, a genuine
     Ponyranch Wettswil Ettenbergstrasse 91, Wettswil                 ball playing areas and diving boards for those who dare. Get                                                                            Zurich toys shop as well as cutlery and souvenir shops.
     am Albis, tel. +41 79 402 29 73,          there on bus No 161 or No 165 to Sukkulentensammlung
     For some children heaven is on horseback - or ponyback for       or take the ship from Bürkliplatz to Seerestaurant. Q Open
     the smaller ones. This ponyranch just behind Üetliberg offers    09:00 - 20:00 (until Sept 15). Admission 7/3.50Sfr.                                                                                     Books & Music
     riding lessons on ponies and horses for children and adults,                                                                                                                                             Orell Füssli - The Bookshop E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 70,
     also in English. Prior reservation is necessary. To get there                                                                                                                                            8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 04 44,
     take the bus direction Bonstetten from outside the railway       Restaurants                                                                                                                             Zurich‘s biggest English-language bookshop: over 40,000 fictional
     station Zürich Wiedikon, get off at Wettswil Heidenchilen        Kaf i f ür Dich B -2 , Stau f f a cher str a s se 1 4 1 ,                                                                               and non-fictional books, magazines, audio books and DVDs on
     after 20 min, then it’s a 5-minute walk. Q 30 min pony ride      8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 317 91 60,                                                                                    three floors - and all in English. There is a strong children‘s section
     in the countryside around the ranch: 25Sfr, 45 min private       This café has a children’s corner where your young ones can                                                                             with a children’s reading every first Saturday of the month. QOpen
     riding lesson: 70Sfr. Ask for other options.                     paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys                                                                            09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                      while you sit and have a coffee or a drink. Well worth a visit
     Public lake baths Mythenquai Mythenquai 95,                      even without your kids. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 -             Bahnhofstrasse - if you can’t get a brand here,                   Rec Rec C-2, Rotwandstrasse 64, 8Helvetiaplatz,
     8 Brunaustrasse, tel. +41 44 201 00 00. Sandy                    02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.                          where else?                          tel. +41 44 291 46 60, www .recrec-shop .ch. The
     beaches, ice cream, table tennis - you’ll find it all at                                                                                                                                                 Recommended Records store has all the rock music you
     Mythenquai, a large lido with all you could ask for. There’s a   Pizza Pasta Ciao! I-5, Asylstrase 125, 8Klusplatz,                    The main shopping areas are:                                      have been looking for and plenty you haven’t heard of yet in
     large non-swimming area in the lake with large water toys,       tel. +41 43 499 07 12, This                                                                                      store – and its been going for 30 years now. There isn’t just
                                                                      restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sitter. So you         Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the           rock, but everything from classic to jazz, ambient, electronica,
                                                                      can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to the espresso      main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian       ethno and world music. All the news of the month on a list,
                                                                      and be sure your kids are having fun too. The menu features           area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s   search service and delivery around the globe - a true jewel,
           WELCOME TO THE MOST                                        everything that comes to your mind when you think Italy.              world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches       this store. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun
           FAMOUS PARADISE OF TOYS                                    Needless to say the place is popular with families.QOpen              and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores       & Mon closed. Closed July 30 - Aug 10.
                                                                      10:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00.                Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. A walk down this famous
           FOR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881.                                                                                                        street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander into the side
                                                                                                                                            streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some       Department stores
                                                                        Shops                                                               more unusual little gems are hidden.                              Globus E-2/3, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse
                                                                                                                                                                                                              / Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 226 60 60,
                                                                        NEW                                                                 Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old       The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on
                                                                        Alkena F-5, Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue, tel.                  town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining        Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for
                                                                        +41 44 261 66 00. The small shop near Bellevue has a                and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding        your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco
                                                                        good selection of high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes         your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai        Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery,
                                                                        made of organic textiles. The brand Alkena specialises              and Niederdorf streets - both pedestrian areas - you will         travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through
                                                                        in organic silk which is produced on its own silk farm in           find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy             the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the
                                                                        China. They also sell women’s clothes, so mum might                 shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well        top floor or have a drink at the bar just next to the entrance
                                                                        find something she likes too.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Mon               worth a peek.                                                     towards Bahnhofstrasse. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                        12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

                                                                        Franz Carl Weber E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 62,
                                                                        8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 225 78 78,
                                                                        Never-ending toy shop on four floors with virtually
                                                                        anything you might be looking for, includes books and a
                                                                        pizzeria. Q Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00,
                                                                                                                                                                                                              ENGLISH BOOKS
                                                                        Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.                                                                                                        and more – pay us a visit
                                                                        Lotti’s Welt C - 6, Waf f enplat z strasse 49,                                                                                        Orell Füssli The Bookshop,
                                                                        8 Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. +41 43 344 51 71,                                                                                          Bahnhofstrasse 70, 8001 Zürich
                                                                        www .lottiswelt .ch. A delightful little shop full of                                                                       
                                                                        imaginative, colourful things for children. Whether it’s
                                                                        dresses, bibs, nappy bags, hats or toys - they’re all
                   Bahnhofstrasse 62, 8001 Zürich,
                   Spielsachen, die Träume versüssen.                   made with lots of love by local designers. QOpen 10:00
                                                                        - 12:00, 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                  August - September 2013
60          SHOPPING                                                                                                                                                                                                                   SHOPPING                                    61

                                                                        for the office, evening gowns or leather coats, it’s all there
       Guess                                                            waiting for you to try it on. As well as shoes and accessories.   Malls & Shopping centres                                             Teddy’s Souvenir-Shop
                                                                        And it’s not just for women - they have a remarkable men’s        Europaallee Passage D-2, Main railway station,
       Guess Zurich F - 3,                                              department as well. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 -              8Hauptbahnhof, The shopping                                                     Te d d y ’ s S o u v e n i r -
       Marktgasse 12,                                                   18:00. Closed Sun.                                                mall Europaall ee Passage is par t o f a wh ol e new                                                Shop F - 4, Limmatquai
       8 Rathaus, tel.                                                                                                                    neighbourhood just next to the main railway station. The                                        34, 8 Helmhaus, tel.
       +41 4 3 3 4 3 95 71 ,                                            NEW                                                               emphasis is on clothes and outdoor activities: skateboard                                       +41 44 261 22 89, Guess                                             Mulberry E-4, Storchengasse 4, 8Paradeplatz, tel.                 and streetwear specialist Doodah, Swiss outdoor clothing                                        www.teddyssouvenirshop
       has its own flagship store                                       +41 43 497 36 10, The British                   label Tom Bergstein, Ochsner’s Lady-Shop and a huge                                             .ch. At Teddy’s they have
       in Zurich - and yes, it is the                                   fashion label Mulberry has its own little shop on Zurich’s        Transa store, selling everything from raingear to rucksacks.                                    a wide range of souvenirs
       biggest in the country. In                                       Storchengasse, the city’s hub of luxury fashion shopping.         Q Most shops are open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -18:00,                                          a n d g i f t s . W h e t h e r i t ’s
       the middle of the Niederdorf they display the Guess and          Here women will find the latest collections of playful dresses,   Sun closed.                                                          clocks, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys,
       Guess by Marciano collections on more than 500sqm                stylish jackets and very smart leather bags. Q Open 09:30                                                                              pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all
       and over two stories, for both men and women: jeans,             - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.                                                                                                at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church
       garments, shoes, accessories like sunglasses, watches,                                                                             Shoes & Accessories                                                  Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich,
       jewellery, lingerie and perfume - the full range of Guess        Marc O’Polo E-2, Lintheschergasse 10,                             NEW                                                                  like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from
       goods is on show and on sale. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00,              8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 43 497 21 35, www                    Ludwig Reiter E-4, Wühre 9, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41                      all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a
       Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. closed Sun.       The Zurich store of the casual Marc O’Polo       43 497 24 94, Austrian shoe                   traditional shirt worn by Alpine herdsmen since days
                                                                        fashion brand features all their latest collections for men,      manufacturer Ludwig Reiter sells classical welted shoes              of yore. And yes, the souvenir shop is open even on
                                                                        women and kids - be it shorts, blouses, jackets or coats and      and accessories, still produced in their manufactory in              Sundays. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:30,
     Manor E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse,                     more. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.        Vienna. On offer are shoes, boots, bags and other leather            Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
     tel. +41 44 229 56 99, Manor is probably                                                                               accessories for men, mostly in brown or black leather and
     the most casual of the trinity of department stores on                                                                               a selection of ladies’ handbags. Classic and classy it is.
     Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in young and casual fashion                                                                           Q Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 -
     and mainly sells its own brands - though they have something                                                                         17:00, Sun closed.                                                  Souvenirs
     for everyone’s needs. Besides that there are departments for                                                                                                                                             Edelweiss Shop E-2, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof,
     beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but                                                                         Navyboot D-4, Nüschelerstrasse 35, 8Sihlstrasse,                    tel. +41 43 497 23 80, At
     not least a very popular and excellent self-service restaurant                                                                       tel. +41 44 220 10 90, The is the                  the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs
     on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.                                                                                   Zurich flagship store of Navyboot, the successful Swiss             and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses
                                                                                                                                          brand for boots (men and women) and bags. Scan their latest         of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and much
                                                                                                                                          collection, have a coffee at the bar or just treat your feet: the   more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big hall of
     Fashion                                                                                                                              Footlounge day spa on the second floor does a range of foot         the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse. They
     Boutique Roma E-3, Pelikanstrasse 6/8, 8Rennweg,                                                                                     massages. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00,            feautre brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club. QOpen
     tel. +41 44 222 18 80, Roma                                                                                    Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.                                      08:00 - 21:30.
     is the boutique for clothing by international avant-garde
     designers like Rick Owens, Dries van Noten und Ann
     Demeulemeester. They feature men’s and women’s wear and
     take pride in traditional handicraft and exquisite materials.
     QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                        Roll out the red carpet! Shoes and bags at Ludwig Reiter.
     Gassmann E-4, Poststrasse 5 -7, 8 Paradeplatz,                                                                                 PD
     tel. +41 44 211 08 37, www.gassmannzuerich .ch.
     Gassmann is an exquisite fashion house for women just off
     Paradeplatz. On more than 1000m2 on three levels you find
                                                                        Trois Pommes E-4, Storchengasse 6, 8Paradeplatz,
                                                                        tel. +41 44 211 06 21, www.troispommes .ch. The                                                                                         PURE STYLE
     brands like Akris, Burberry London, Ralph Lauren, or Sonja         boutique Trois Pommes offers a selection of fashion pieces
     Bogner and many more. There is also a department for               from a dozen or so exquisite brands like Bluemarin, Marni,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                Welcome to Switzerland’s fi rst
     babies and kids. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00,           Lanvin, Thomas Maier and Adam Jones. The Trois Pommes
     Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.                                     empire encompasses more shops on the same street: the                                                                                    destination for watches and
                                                                        Trois Pommes Designer store (Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs,                                                                                  jewelry with a selection of more
     Grieder E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel.                 Giambattista Valli), a Gucci store and a shoe gallery. Which                                                                              than 50 exclusive brands.
     +41 44 224 36 36, If you’re               makes Storchengasse the place for luxury fashion shopping
     looking for the latest women’s collections of the world’s top      in Zurich. QOpen 09:30 - 18:45, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
     fashion labels, Grieder is the place to go. Be it business suits   Sun.


     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                August - September 2013
62         SHOPPING
     Meng Cutlery E-3, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel.
                                                                                                                                          Making time a value
     +41 44 211 18 48, Meng Cutlery
     just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs
     such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also                                       Beyer E-4, Bahnhofstrasse
     on stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas                                      31, 8 Paradeplatz, tel.

                                                                                                                                              since 1760
     for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).                                   +41 43 344 63 63, www
     QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.                                           .beyer-ch .com. For more
                                                                                                   than 250 years Beyer has
     Schweizer Heimatwerk E-3, Uraniastrasse 1,                                                    been selling and repairing
     8 Rudolf - Brun - Brücke, tel. +41 44 222 19 55,                                              watches. The family business
     www .heimatwerk .ch. Swiss handcrafted souvenirs                                              is now led by the eighth gen-
     of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books          eration. Beyer is specialized in selling some of the world’s
     and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red               most sought after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex,
     and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at             Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as their
     Bahnhofstrasse 2. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -                own brand Beyer. Guests get first-class service, a sip of
     18:00. Closed Sun.                                                Champagne or delicious Sprüngli chocolate to feel com-
                                                                       fortable. The goldsmiths at the fine jewellery workshop
     zü F-4, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel.                create precious custom-made pieces, for some royals too.
     +41 44 251 21 45, Photographer                The neighbouring Patek Philippe boutique is also managed
     Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives      by Beyer and offers a wide range of exclusive timepieces.
     and cow bells: authentic black and white pictures of the city     QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
     of Zurich, the old town, the lake. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat
     11:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon.
                                                                     Caran d’Ache D-3, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz,
                                                                     tel. +41 44 273 90 00, Caran d’
     Swiss design                                                    Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing instruments.
     NEW                                                             In their Zurich boutique you will find their entire collection -
     Ana Blum Kreuzstrasse 19, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.                   everything from pens, pencils, markers and fountain pens
     +41 44 450 13 90, Ana Blum is                  to paints and paint brushes. Their boxes of colour pencils
     the accessories-label of local designer Regina Bürli. She       are a classic present for children, but you can also just treat
     presents her bags and belts in her very own shop. Expect        yourself to one of the elegant pens. Q Open Mon 10:30 -
     functional bags with style and joyful, glamorous details. Q     18:30, Tue - Fri 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
     Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Sun closed.
                                                                     Paradis des Innocents E-3, Oetenbachgasse
                                                                     7, 8 R e n n w e g , t e l . + 4 1 4 4 2 6 2 2 0 5 0 ,
                                                            The three Swiss designers
                                                                     Stefania Samadelli, Simone Klemm and Ursula Schwaller
                                                                     present their latest collections in their little paradise: elegant
                                                                     fashion for women, be it for leisure or business. Q Open
                                                                     10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun & Mon.

                                                                     Swiss food                                                                      «We only deal in watches
                                                                     Marinello Comestibles E -2 , Hauptbahnhof,
                                                                     8Bahnhofstrasse / Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 225                               that will stand the test of time.
                                                                     40 04, This shop in the underground                              As, indeed, we have.»
                                                                     of the main train station is a paradise for gourmets: a
                                                                     rich selection of Swiss cheese specialities from Zurich’s
                                                                     backcountry and further afield, fruit and vegetables and
                                                                     organic meat specialities, as well as fresh fish and takeaway
                                                                     food. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

                                                                                                                                                             René Beyer

                                                                                                                                                         Watches & Jewellery
                                                                                                                                            Bahnhofstrasse 31 8001 Zurich
                                                                                    Löwenstrasse 19 - Zürich

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                    
















                          TAG Heuer
                          Louis Erard
                          Bell & Ross

                          Jaquet Droz
                          Franck Muller
                          De Grisogono

                          Ulysse Nardin
                          Swiss Military
                          Raymond Weil
                          Patek Philippe

                          Zurich Partime
                          Maurice Lacroix
                          Girard Perregaux

                          Audemars Piguet

                          Baume & Mercier
                          A. Lange & Söhne

                          IWC Schaffhausen

                          Parmigiani Fleurier

                          Victorinox Swiss Army

Zurich In Your Pocket
                                                                                                                                                              Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82


                                                                                                                                                              Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1


                                                                                                • •
                                                                                                                                                              Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31

                                                                                                                                                              Bourquin, Langstrasse 234

                                          • •
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                                                                                                                                                              Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50

                                                                                                                                                              Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

                                                                                                                                                              Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

                                                                                                                                                              Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47

                                                                                                                                                              Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

                                                                                                                                                              Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78

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                                                                                                                                                              Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1

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                                                                                                                                                              Christian Goldschmiede, Limmatplatz 1

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                                                                                                                                                              Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126


                                                                                                                                                              Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

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                                                                                                                                                              Galli, Theaterstrasse 16

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                                                                                                                                                              Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36

                                                                                                                                                              IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61



                                                                                                                                                              Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80


                                                                                                                                                              La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25
                              • •


                                                                                                                                                              Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64


                                                                                                                                                              Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33

                                                                                                                                                              Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4

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                                                                                                                                                              Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31

                                                                                                                                                              Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 52


                                                                                                                                                              Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5

                                                                                                                                                              Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31

                                                                                                                                                              Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17

                                                                                                                                                              Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 94

                                                                                                                                                              Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14

                                                                                                                                                              Türler A., Paradeplatz

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                                                                                                                                                              Zett-Meyer, Bahnhofstrasse 37
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                                                                                                                                                              Zinniker, Buchholzstrasse 3, Zollikon
                                                                                                                                                                                            TACTILE TECHNOLOGY
                                                                                                                                                                  IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME

                                                                                                                            1125 CHF Suggested retail price

August - September 2013
66         SHOPPING                                                                                                                                                                                                              DIRECTORY                                             67

      Swiss chocolate                                                      Watches & Jewellery                                                   Consulates                                                    Dentists
                                                                           CHRIST Watches & Jewelry E-3, Bahnhofstrasse                          Here are the most important consulates you can find in        zahnar z t Hardturmstra sse 1 2 3,
      Swiss chocolate is of world renown - and yes, you                    78, 8 Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 14 47,                          Zurich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which is   8Förrlibuckstrasse, tel. +41 43 366 62 00, www
      should take advantage of being here and try some of these   CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in                 the Swiss capital. See for addresses. A dentist centre that’s open every day.
      sweet sins. But have you ever wondered why it is the Swiss           Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer,                                                                            Call for an appointment, or in case of an emergency, just walk in.
      who make such delicious chocolate?                                   Certina and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made. There                   China Bellariastrasse 20, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. +41            From the main train station take tram N°4 in direction of Werdhölzli.
      Cocoa, the main ingredient of chocolate comes from South             are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof                 44 201 10 05, fax +41 44 201 77 12, www.zurich                QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 15:00.
      America and was brought to Europe in the early 16th century.         (Bahnhofstrasse 57, E-3) and Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3).  
      But it wasn’t until the end of the 18th century that Swiss           QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
      craftsmen started to process cocoa and to establish small                                                                                  Estonia Bergstrasse 52, Stäfa, tel. +41 44 926                Language schools
      businesses producing chocolate. In the 19th century some of                                                                                88 37, fax +41 44 926 88 38,,              Alemania Badenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz,
      today’s best known Swiss chocolate producers (like Suchard,                                                                                                            tel. +41 44 300 33 44, German
      Sprüngli, Lindt, Callier and Tobler) were established. But it
                                                                                                                                                 France H-5, Signaustrasse 1, 8Signaustrasse, tel.             courses only, from beginners to proficient speakers.
      took two leaps of technology in the 1870s for Swiss chocolate
      to become a real success. First Daniel Peter invented milk                                                                                 +41 44 268 85 85, fax +41 44 268 85 00, consulat
      chocolate. Condensed milk was the key to success. Then, in
      1879, Rodolphe Lindt invented the mysterious conche. This
                                                                                                                                       , www.consulatfrance
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Limousine service
      scraper-mixer makes solid chocolate smooth and creamy                                                                                                                                                    Alliance Limousines, tel. +41 43 499 62 88, www
                                                                                                                                                 Germany J-5, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz, tel.   Alliance Limousines offers transport
      rather than hard and gritty, as it had been until then. The Lindt                                                                          +41 44 201 72 22, fax +41 44 201 72 29, zuerich
      conche was a milestone and has been copied ever since.                                                                                                                                                   services with a driver for any distance with up-to-date vehicles.
      In the following decades, the Swiss became very keen on
      this creamy chocolate and soon also started exporting
      their produce. Today around 175,000 tons of chocolate
                                                                                                                                                 Ireland E-5, Claridenstrasse 25, 8 Paradeplatz,
                                                                                                                                                 tel. +41 44 289 25 15, fax +41 44 289 25 50,
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Lost & Found
      are produced in Switzerland per year. And yes, the Swiss                                                                                                               Lost & Found (VBZ) E-3, Werdmühlestrasse 10,
      are the world’s greatest chocolate eaters: statistically                                                                                                                                                 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 412 25 50. All objects
      the Swiss eat around 12 kilograms a year each. As a                                                                                        Italy D-4, Tödistrasse 67, 8Brandschenkenstrasse,             found on public transport and on the ground of the city of
      comparison a US-American consumes 5.4kg a year.                      Beyer’s iconic pocket watch on Bahnhofstrasse.                  PD    tel. +41 44 286 61 11, fax +41 44 201 16 11,                  Zurich end up here. Q Open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat & Sun closed.
      In Zurich, the most famous chocolate producer and
                                                                           Gübelin E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8 Paradeplatz,
      confectioner is probably Sprüngli, the original shop with
      café situated on Paradeplatz (Bahnhofstrasse 21, see p.              tel. +41 44 387 52 20, Since 1854
                                                                                                                                                 Russia F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41           Pharmacies
                                                                                                                                                 900 00 08 08 (5Sfr/min),
      35). Another well-known Zurich chocolate maker is Lindt              Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious                                                                           Bahnhof Apotheke E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof,
      & Sprüngli. They were originally connected to Sprüngli, but          stones.QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.            United States of America G- 6, Dufourstrasse                  tel. +41 44 225 42 42. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
      split the business at the end of the 19th century. Its factory                                                                             101, 8 Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 43 499 29 60,
      is just outside Zurich and you can buy Lindt chocolate in            Kurz Jewellery and Watches E-3, Bahnhofstrasse                        fax +41 43 499 29 61,, www                Bellevue Apotheke F - 5, Theaterstrasse 1 4,
      literally every grocery store.                                       80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 219 77 77,                                                        8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 266 62 22. Q Open 24hrs.
      Here are a few suggestions besides Sprüngli on where to              www.kurzschmuckuhren .ch. Wide selection of mainly
      find chocolate paradise in Zurich:                                   Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot,
                                                                           Rado and many more, as well as a large selection of jewellery.
      Läderach Chocolatier Suisse E-2, Bahnhofstrasse                      QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
      106, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 211 53 72, The traditional Swiss chocolatier
      Läderach sells freshly produced chocolate, filled chocolates
                                                                           Partime K-6, Technoparkstrasse 1, 8Technopark, tel.
                                                                           +41 44 445 14 55, The Zurich Partime
      and pralines. You even get an insight into the craft of
                                                                           simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the
      confectionery here, as some of the chocolate is actually
                                                                           day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount
      produced on site - creating irresistible aromas!QOpen
                                                                           of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually
      09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
                                                                           eats into the blue. Find it also at the retailers indicated on page
      Teuscher Confiserie E- 3, Bahnhof strasse                            64.Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun closed.
      4 6 , 8 Re n nwe g , te l . + 4 1 4 4 2 1 1 1 3 9 0, More than a hundred different                      NEW
      flavours of Swiss chocolate, marzipan, biscuits and the              Vainard E-4, Schlüsselgasse 4, tel. +41 44 210 04 44,
      famous champagne truffles made according to Adolf           Vainard creates classic diamond jewellery
      Teuscher’s traditional recipe. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu             as well as a more daring designer’s collection - inspired by Art
      & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00.           deco and modernity with strong black and white contrasts. Q
                                                                           Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
                                                                                                                                                      Welcome to Zurich

                                                                          Discover pure delight
                                                                             from Switzerland!

                    at Läderach Chocolaterie: Bahnhofstr. 106, Zurich; ShopVille RailCity Zurich,
         Passage Löwenstr., 2nd basement fl oor; Shopping Center Glatt, Glattzentrum/Wallisellen

     Zurich In Your Pocket                                                                                                                                                  August - September 2013
                                                                                                                                                                                 Stadt Zürich | Zurich City


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Tarifzone 110



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            S2 S16

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Fare zone 110

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Im Ebnet                                                   tb B

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                                                                                                                                          g r r.



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Stauffacher                                                                                                    str.|HB


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Neumarkt                                                                                                                                                          Bergstation








                                                                                                                                                                                                                           us gl



                                                                                                                                                                                                                         ha w in

                                                                                                                       Sc lt w

                                                                                                                                                                                   t r.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         ko e

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       di e d
                                                                                                                                                                                      un pl

                                                                                                                         hu e g

                                                                                                                                                                                       t r.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Rudolf-                                                                                                                                     Klosbach

                                                                                                                                        Gu ur i

                                                                                                                                                                                                                     ie mi
                                                                                                                                                                                           ne at z


                   Goldacker weg                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Kantonsschule

                                                                                                                                          Sc ger



                                                                                                                                                                                                                    W ch


                                                                                                                                                                                             lw s
                                                                                                                                            He l-


                                                                                                                                             ha s t r


                                                                                                                                                                                                i e t r.


                                                                                                                                               uf .



                                                                                   In der Ey                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Kunsthaus

                                                                                                                                                                                                             67                       76

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Ba ie

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              W Ze



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               iti nt

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         hn dik
                                                                                                                                      14                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       8


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  ko r u

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           ho on

                                                                                                                                                        9                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Hottingerplatz

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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Ba eln

                                                                                                                                                                    215| 245                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Helmhaus                                                                                                                            Hölderlinstr.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        hn au



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Paradeplatz                                                                                                   str.                                                                                  Klusplatz


                                                                                                                                                       220                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Bahnhof                                                                                                                                     753

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Stadelhofen                                              vier telstr.

                                                                                                                                                                       235                                                                                                                                                                                              Börsenstr.

                                                                                                            Triemli                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     786

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Br che ma

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  an n
                                                                                                                                                                                           32                                                                                                                                                                                                   9




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    d - ke s n -


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Hü lat




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                C a a s r.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             i t t r.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      s - r. r -

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        r li z

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           be i