Nikon Camera

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Nikon Camera
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This is an example of nikon camera. This document is useful for studying the nikon camera.

Camera Selection







Finding the right camera for you is a trail of compromises and requires a process similar

to a decision tree. The greater the size and cost of the camera the less compromises have

to be made though usually at the expense of ease of use and weight. Digital cameras are

now approaching and possibly exceeding the image quality normally associated with 35

mm film camera.



To me the greatest discriminators currently are cost, interchangeable lenses with its

associated camera size, and whether the flash is attached to the camera (or supports the

use of external flash mounts). Notice that I did not address image quality or what type of

images you want to create within that high level discriminator.



Let me go through the rationalization I utilized for my camera selection. For my purposes

I have purchased a Fuji Finepix S2 Pro, which while it is not quite a professional camera,

it serves as one for me. The primary issue was the ability to take high quality sports

images, which requires a high shutter speed and the ability to simulate 1600 ASA film

speed (with minimum amount of noise). Additionally I had an investment in Nikon

lenses (used with my F100 and N90s) so the camera had to be able to utilize those lenses.

For image quality, I wanted a CCD with over 4 Megapixel (not interpolated). The Fuji

camera fit the bill over the Nikon camera because its CCD was one generation further

along (6 Megapixel Fuji image is equivalent to a Nikon 9 Megapixel CCD). Both the

Nikon and Cannon (10 D) have much more noise at the high ASAs than the Fuji. The

noise on the Cannon images at 800 ASA in unacceptable to me whereas I have utilized

the 1600 ASA for the Fuji with excellent results.



Why is ASA important? Your low light images (daughter on beach) would have been

better utilizing a higher ASA film such as 800 or 1600 with a fast lens (2.8).

Additionally, action shots such as daughter running could be taken with a higher shutter

speed if you had the faster ASA. A question you need to answer is do you intend to take

low light available light photos or action shots in less than optimal lighting? As your

photos reinforce, the best light is the relatively low light available at sunrise or sunset.



The significant draw back to me for the Fuji is its relatively slow sync speed: 125th (Max

shutter speed with a flash). After experimenting with flash and available light basketball

games, I found that I could still get good pictures with flash at 125th which were better

than my available light photos which had minimal depth of field. I had been taking the

same pictures at 1/250th utilizing my F100 prior to going digital. As a result of my

experimentation a sync speed of 1/125th is acceptable whereas 1/60th is really limiting and

unacceptable for my purposes.



Why is flash important? Most built in flash units (within the camera body) have a range

of about 12 feet or less when utilized with an ASA of 200 at f 3.5. This increases to

about 18 feet with an ASA of 400 or an f stop (aperture) of 2.8. Utilizing my external

flashes I can get flash shots from 24 to 60 feet depending upon ASA and type of flash

(Nikon 28 or Metz 40). The other problem with a built in flash (because the flash is so

close to the lens) is a subject’s red eye. While software will get rid of red eye on digital

photos, it is better not to have it in the first place. Most point and shoot cameras (built in

flash) have red-eye-reduction features which emit a series of short light bursts to get the

subject’s pupil to contract and thus reduce the potential of red eye. This is not truly

effective. If you desire to take portrait shots you will want a camera that supports an

external flash capability. A method to reduce the “red eye effect” is to have the subject of

the portrait not look into the camera lens and focus instead on an object off the lens axis.



For the person not desiring the expense of a full featured Single Lens Reflex (SLR)

camera, the features associated with the camera are the main discriminators in camera

selection for the sub $1000 cameras. Why are features important and which features are

important and which are noise and should not be a significant concern? Make a list of

camera features you are concerned about and then rate them by importance to you. Most

point and shoot digital cameras have similar qualities: a body mounted moderate zoom

lens (not interchangeable 35-105 mm), range view finder (image is not through the lens),

electronic view finder, limited ASA (100 – 400), removable storage (CF, SD, memory

stick etc.), varying amounts of water resistance, size (shirt pocket, coat pocket), lens

speed (3.3 to 11.5 – not user selectable but dependant upon zoom) integrated flash (no

external flash capabilities), power source (AA, Lithium, rechargeable), startup time from

turn on, time between shutter depression and image capture (lag time), cost, automatic

program modes, resolution size of the CCD, and the most limiting factor – manual

override of automatic modes and settings.



Why is manual override the most limiting factor? If you are just doing a family history

(“I was there” type of photos) the automatic capabilities are probably sufficient.

However, you have a desire to produce better pictures than the typical “snap and grin”

shots you will want a manual override. While 90 percent of my photos are manual,

typically 40 % of “snap and grin” shots could have been better with more control over

exposure, focusing, and film speed. Beware of those cameras that do not retain settings

between power up cycles.



Features:

Zoom lens: Most point and shoot cameras have a zoom lens capability to 3x. Only the

least expensive cameras with low resolutions (2 Meg) have fixed length lenses. These are

currently available in the $200 price range. These are equivalent to the 35 mm film

camera zooms from 35 mm to 105 mm. Some higher price cameras will zoom up to 10x.

Why are zooms important? A zoom lens permits the photographer to compose a picture

while minimizing the physical movement away or closer to the subject. The telephoto

portion of the zoom is used many times to capture a portrait without being in the face of

the subject or to frame an interesting object when the photographer can not get physically

closer. The telephoto zoom permits the subject to fill the frame and not be lost in image.

The wide angle part of the zoom (24 – 35 mm) permits the photographer to place more

people in a group shot when they can not move back any further because of a wall or

other physical impairment. Additionally, a wide angle zoom can capture the majesty of a

scenic venue that would not be possible with a normal lens (55 mm).



View Finder:

The point and shoot variety cameras have either an optical view finder or an electronic

view finder. While the electronic view finder more closely represents what the captured

image will be, it will provide a drain on the batteries. The optical view finder will be

subject to parallax and less accurate than the electronic view finder and both usually will

represent from 80 to 95% of the actual captured image.



ASA range:

The ASA is the effective film speed. With digital cameras, the higher the ASA, the

greater the probability of inducing noise in the image. Usually the lower ASAs 50 and

100 will exhibit the less noise and the 800 and 1600 ASAs will exhibit the largest noise.

Noise is manifested by light irregular patterns that appear on an image and are most

noticeable on solid color objects in an image. Why are there various ASAs associated

with digital cameras? Setting the ASA permits the correct exposure for a given shutter

speed and aperture. In automatic mode, the digital camera will adjust those items to

produce a correct exposure; however, if you are in a low light situation, ASA 100 will not

permit the image to be captured properly and an ASA of 400 or higher might be required.

Additionally for photos were the photographer desires to capture a moving subject a fast

shutter speed is required. In this situation, the aperture can not be open enough to permit

a correct exposure so the higher ASA is required.



Storage:

Digital cameras must have the capability to store the image. There are two types of

storage usually utilized: internal memory and external storage. The internal memory is

transient and usually called the buffer. The buffer comes into play when the photographer

desires to take a multiple images before the image can be stored on an external storage

device. This is usually expressed as an ability to take a number of images per second

(e.g. 7 per 2 seconds). This value is hard to compare between cameras because it will

vary depending upon the image resolution which translates directly to the size of the

image file being stored. The external storage devices are continually changing from the

proprietary Sony storage, the Compact Flash (CF) Type 1 and II, and the Secure Digital.

Generally speaking there is not any significant difference between the removable formats

with the CF cards having a greater storage capacity.



Water Resistance:

Several of the point and shoot cameras to offer a degree of protection from water (rain or

perspiration) and some are even submersible to 20 or 30 feet. If the photographer desires

to take beach or boat pictures this feature may increase in importance.



Size:

The larger the camera, the less likely the photographer will have it with him/her. If it is

small enough the photographer will carry the camera everywhere he/she goes and image

opportunities will not be missed. The quality of the lens may not be as good with the

smaller camera. A larger zoom capability will most likely result in larger camera size.







Most point and shoots will not permit a capability I utilize frequently and would have

helped the shot indoors (light from window in your lap) and the shot with the bright road

behind your daughter: the ability to focus and adjust the exposure on a subject and then

move the camera to frame the image properly while maintaining the exposure

information. This is predominately required in outdoor shots especially those taken

between 10 am and 4 pm. (summer). In your daughter running on the beach you could

have utilized a faster shutter speed to get your daughter in focus that may or may not be

available in the point and shoot. Some do have a sports mode, which will automatically

have the highest shutter speed for the given amount of light. Your landscape photos could

have been better utilizing a greater depth of field by utilizing a wide-angle lens and

having an f-stop of 16 to have the foreground in focus while retaining detail in the

mountains. This would also require a high ASA if a tripod and slow shutter speed were

not utilized.



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