Technical Applications Design Challenge Project Garden Gate by dffhrtcv3


									Technical Applications
Design Challenge:
 Garden Gate

  Mr. Wetzel
  (Mr. G’s project)
My 4 1/2’ x 15’ garden has and old rusty, broken
fence with no gate.
Construct a new fence with a gate.

   Existing fence is rusty old chicken wire.
   No gate, have to climb over fence to get into
   Looks terrible. Mrs. G. nags me to fix it.
       Specifications (requirements)
   Utilize existing materials saved from other projects.
   Maximum cost of materials: $0
   Complete project within 16 hrs. (2 Saturdays)
   Must use weather resistant materials. Must be open
    enough to let in sunlight all day.
   Width: 15’, depth: 4 1/2’, Height: 3’. (foraging deer
    not really a problem).
   Install a functional gate for easy access.
   Only install fence on 3 sides. Can use wall of house
    and air conditioner as part of fencing.
                        Exploring Ideas
   ***Include (staple into your report) freehand sketches using pencil and graph
   paper with explanations of good and/or bad features.
    Some projects will require school approved software/simulation for designing.
   Explain the s/w, how it works, your results. Include all output in your report.
• Idea #1 Red Cedar Accent Fencing
Pro: looks great!!!
Con: Do not have the material, out of budget.
   Too time consuming to construct.

• Idea #2 White vinyl Fencing and gate
Pro: Weather resistant, no painting needed.
     Wide gate to carry out those huge pumpkins!
Con: Do not have the material, out of budget.
•   Idea # 3
    website, easy instructions for
    do-it-yourselfers like me.

Pro: just what I’m looking for.

Con: I will have to modify their
   design to fit the materials I
Making: I constructed the fencing and gate myself using left over
supplies from several other projects. The fence posts were ripped from 2 x
6 pressure treated lumber from my rear deck. The gate and perimeter toe
  boards were left over from my neighbor’s cedar patio fence. The green
  plastic fencing was left over from a protective shrubbery fence project.

•   Remove old wire fence and rotten fence posts.
•   Stretch a guide line length of garden and
    4 1/2’ parallel with house.
•   Rip 2 x 6 boards on table saw 2” x 2” for posts.
    Cross cut to length of 4 1/2’. Make 10 posts.
•   Using hatchet, place end of posts on scrap wood and
    shape one end to point, for easier hammering into ground.
•   Begin by setting the two posts for the gate 19” apart (add 1” clearance for
    18” wide gate). Hammer in straight with sledge hammer. Constantly stop
    and check for plumb using a level. Stop when approximately when 12” is in
    ground. 3 1/2’ should be above ground.
•   Layout remaining posts evenly spaced…about 3’ apart. Drive into ground
    same as for gate posts.
                         Making: (continued)
•   Install 4” x 1” x 8’ cedar toe boards to bottom of fence posts. Pilot drill 1/8”
    hole, use #8 x 2” galvanized deck screws. 2 screws/ post. Toe boards will
    keep in garden soil and prevent animals from burrowing under fence. Cedar is
    a rot resistant wood.
•   Cut 2 x 2 wood braces on corners and gate to provide support. Install
    diagonally and use 3” length galvanized wood screws. Always pilot drill. Used
    electric hand drill and good old Phillips screw driver by hand.
•   Attach heavy duty green plastic fencing to posts using plastic coated copper
    wire salvaged from phone company office installation. Copper wire will not rust
    and is strong if wrapped several times around post. Cut fence material with
    hand metal shears.
•   Begin gate construction. Disassemble section of 8’ board-on-board cedar
    fence to obtain materials.
•   Use tape measure and tri-square to layout. Cut two 8’ boards in half using
    cross-cut hand saw to create four 4’ gate boards. Trim two boards with hand
    saw to have matching chamfered ends.
•   Measure and cut two 2” x 3” horizontal cross members. Use combo-square
    and hand saw. Hold in vice on work bench while cutting.
                         Making: (continued)
•   Using combo square and tape measure, create
    guide lines on gate boards 12” from top and                          Cross
    bottom to position horizontal cross members.         Gate board      member
•   Clamp with c-clamp top cross member
    perpendicular to one gate board with end even
    with board. Pilot drill and screw board to cross
    member with two 2” galv wood screws to prevent
•   Repeat with bottom cross member.
•   Position another gate board to opposite side of
    cross member. Clamp, drill, screw and perform
    work same as first board.
•   The gate now looks like a rectangular frame.
    Place the two middle gate boards evenly
    spaced, about 1 3/8” apart. Clamp, drill and
    screw together.
•   Flip the gate upside down, measure and cut a
    diagonal cross member. To find the needed                           Diagonal
    angle, lay the wood into position and trace. You                    support
    can also use a sliding t-bevel to find your angle.         Gate rear view
    Clamp, drill and screw together the cross brace.
                                Making: Hinge
•   Using two old galvanized hinges from a garage door, scribe and cut away supports to
    permit 90° bend on right side. Clamp in vise, use hacksaw.
•   Measure and bend left side of hinge to wrap around gate post and provide rigid
    attachment. Drill new 1/8” hole on left side using drill press. Clamp in vise.

•   Attach hinges using galv wood screws and washers to prevent screws from popping out
    of oval hinge holes. Always pilot drill first.
•   Hasp. Not the most technical device, but it will work temporarily until I find something
    better laying around in my basement or garage. Create a loop of plastic coated copper
    phone wire.

          Bend and
                                       Cut away here

                                                         Cheapo hasp

•    The project is a success? If only I can stop those “attack” pumpkins.
•    The fence and gate have held up well for several years now.
•    I have kept to my budget, using only existing materials.
•    Wife and neighbors are pleased.
•    One nice feature is, I can un-attach the left side fence and swing it out of the
     way. This permits burying my fig tree to prevent any frost damage.

    Fig tree

•   This was a very rewarding project. I was able to
    complete it within my allocated time frame of two
•   It was great because it cost nothing to build, and I
    was able to use up some supplies left over from
    previous projects.
•   It must be working because I have not found any
    evidence of intruding varmints. Now if only it can
    keep those pumpkins from escaping.
•   The fence is not really strong enough to hold up
    the weight of the pumpkin vines. I don’t plan on
    letting pumpkins grow again. Stick to tomatoes
    and figs.
            Improved security

(Sketches of improved design should go here)
Good Luck!!!!

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