Tuesday_ 12 August 2008 Belle Epoque Tour IFA – Sunday_ 31st

Monday, 09 November 2009 Belle Epoque Tour IFA – Sunday, 31st August, 2008 Belle Epoque – walk route : START : Metropole Hotel, Place de Brouckère > Boulevard Adolphe Max > Passage du Nord > Rue Neuve > Rue St. Michel > Place des Martyrs > Rue du Persil > Rue du Marais > Rue des Sables (Comic Strip Museum) return Montagne aux Herbes Potagères (mention Rue des Comédiens) > Rue Fossé aux Loups > Place de la Monnaie > Rue Fossé aux Loups >Rue de l‟Evêque (mention Rue des Halles) > Black tower > Place St. Catherine > Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains >Rue des Chartreux > Pont de la Carpe > Place St. Géry > Borgval > Boulevard Anspach > Rue de la Bourse > CIRIO (drink) > Boulevard Anspach > Rue au Marché aux Poulets > Rue Marché aux Herbes > Rue des Bouchers > Petite rue des Bouchers > Galeries St. Hubert > Rue des Dominicains > Galerie du Prince >Galeries St. Hubert > Marché aux Herbes > Rue de la Madeleine (mention Galerie Bortier) > Boulevard de l‟Empereur > Rue Montagne de la Cour > Rue Ravenstein > BOZAR FINISH. Metropole Hotel (1872-74) – Place de Brouckère Introduction in Reception area. 1895: Luxury hotel bought by Wielemans-Ceuppens. Epernay champagne served at inauguration. Suites: Sarah Bernhardt, Yehudi Menuhin, Jacques Brel, Toscanini and Maurice Béjart. Corridor: map of Belgium. Stand on lhs: Brussels + Charleroi rhs: Liège. 19th century lift. At reception desk – phone booth. In Foyer: Photo of current Belgian Royal Family with baby Elizabeth (c 2001). Solvay conference in 1911 (Ernest Solvay, Marie Curie, Albert Einstein, etc). Le 19ième bar (floor plaque). Central section covered with panel – it hides a glass roof which is to be renovated. Some of the original ceiling sgraffites have been rediscovered. Covered up for protection during WWI - listed. “La Coutellerie du Roi” display– one of Brussels‟ oldest shops. Famous visitors: Marshal Foch, Douglas Haig, (WWI), Georges Clemenceau, Enrico Caruso (1910)., Isadora Duncan (1905), Sarah Bernhardt (1914), Marie Curie (1911.) 1974: Murder on the Orient Express directed by Sidney Lumet and based on the 1934 novel of the same name by Agatha Christie. Albert Finney is Hercule Poirot, investigating the murder of Mr. Ratchett (Richard Widmark) aboard a train with an all-star cast of suspects, including Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Sean Connery, John Gielgud and Anthony Perkins. Place de Brouckère Originally “Boulevard central” – dedicated to Charles De Brouckère (1796-1860). Liberal, jurist and ULB professor. Member of the Chamber of Deputies. Held portfolios of Home finances, Ministry of War. Alderman: 1847. Burgomaster 1848-1860 when Senne vaulted and main road built. After demolition of Augustine Church - Hotel Continental (1874). Burnt down 19th c. Renovated 1990s now bank. Façade statues by Louis Samain. Brouckère fountain decided 1860 - erected 1897. > Quai aux Briques when metro built 1970s. 1982: 3-tier fountains: “Leapfrog” by J. Roig and “Children‟s Games” by J. De Decker Metropole cinema: built 1932 by Adrien Bloome. Seating: 2,900. Opened by Queen Elizabeth and Princess Astrid in 1933. 1st film: Marcel Pagnol‟s “Fanny”. La Maison du Chat - Boulevard Adolphe Max Burgomaster Anspach organised architectural competitions between 1872-76 for the most attractive façades (any style). Architect Henri Beyaert won this architectural prize worth 20,000 Fr. “Hier is den Kater en de Kat”. Now Temp. Agency on ground floor. Passage du Nord (1881-1882) (North Gallery) 69 m long. 34 shops. Architect. Henri Rieck.(natural prolongation of the Galerie du Commerce (1871) – now C & A). 32 caryatids – metal industry, commerce, Astronomy, Architecture, sculpture, painting and Decorative Arts (J. Bertheux). 4 candelabras on 1st floor symbolising Day and Night (Sculptor: Desenfans). Fun angels on overhead gallery: “Recreation” facing A. Max and “Work” facing Rue Neuve. City undertook to pay for lighting until midnight each day. A waxworks museum/Le Musée Castan was founded in 1888 by German Castan. (cf Musée Grévin, Paris); Included “Théâtre Bébé” where children and dwarves put on farces and pantomimes, there were variety shows in the auditorium, string puppet shows, exotic dances and illusionists. In May 1890 the Musée Castan hosted a short-lived display of 10 male Samoans who played billiards and performed song-and-dance acts. When Castan died in 1895 the museum became a theatre. In 1908 the rooms were incorporated into the Metropole Hotel. On right hand side is a hydraulic life capable of carrying 700 people/hour. On left hand side a monumental staircase. Wall covered with Portland cement and sand from the Rhine. Renovated recently. The modern tiled flooring will be put back in original style. Shops open 10-18 every day except Sunday. Site listed since 1995. La Coutellerie du Roi (f1750!) King Albert a client. Shop has a display case in the Metropole. Window lit on Sundays as shutter only half down! Inside door – photo of the gallery when it first opened. Original furniture. Next to C& A is a truncated section of (Galerie du Commerce (built 1871) which contained “Boîtes à filles” (cheap brothels) nr Hirsch clothiers. Rue Neuve (turn left) 1906-7: Eden cinema, the first in the street. 1913: the Trianon (300 seats) and the Régent. Cinemas replaced the old aristocratic mansions and profoundly altered the district. “Zara” site of old cinema. INNOVATION - Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta in 1899. Fire started in 2nd floor storeroom – children‟s clothes – lighted cigarette? No one found guilty. It burnt down on lunch time on 22nd May, 1967. Cafeteria full at lunchtime. 325 perished. Huge central glass cupola and monumental staircase helped propagate the fire very quickly. It resulted in improved fire regulations – clearly indicated exits and sprinklers. Roads too narrow for fire engines. Used as pretext for men to “get rid of” their wives! Nearby in Rue du Canon N° 12 there used to be a farm (Family René Vandergoten). They had fields out in Auderghem. They had 35 dray horses, cattle, and sold milk – up to 1934. Vandergoten now known as a removals firm. Founded 1870 with horse-drawn vans < 1939. Moved Monnaie sets. Buildings disappeared after Innovation fire (1967). Rue St. Michel > Place des Martyrs Art Nouveau base to statue of Frederick de Mérode killed during fight for independence. Brother became member of provisional government. In 1960s a family member on Olympic Committee. Current president Jacques Rogge. Rue du Persil Up to 18th century – vegetable and herb gardens. N° 8 in neoclassical style was the home of Louis Ghémar, Leopold II‟s official court photographer before being redecorated by Albin Chambon (Metropole) for the Philanthropic Friends Lodge (of which Victor Horta was a member). Rue du Marais Formerly Rue de la Blanchisserie – drying fields for dyed cloth. Rue des Sables Formerly Rue des Capucines (17th c on site of Rue du Meiboom created 1950) then re-named Sables (1295) by French. Originally outside first city walls and twice as long. Meiboom café, Rue Saint Laurent (chapel founded 1314. patron of the crossbowmen who had their practice ground here. Under the French > rue des Droits de l'Homme(!) During the Belle époque this working class area had 4 brothels. Comic Strip Museum (CBBD): exterior and hallway only. Open: 10 am – 6 p.m. The Waucquez Warehouses by Victor Horta in 1906 for Charles Waucquez family (d 1920) who used it for a wholesale cloth business. Sunlight filters from the glass ceiling into the central hall, thereby illuminating the rest of the warehouse in a natural way - coloured glass mezzanine and rought iron gratings. Last used as a shop in 1965. The lift no longer works but was the latest thing in 1901.Restored between 1987 and 1989. Printworks of the « Le Peuple » Socialist newspaper – 28-38 rue des Sables In 1885 the Belgian Workers Party was set up. The first socialist papers were printed here. The first edition came out on 12th December, 1885. (Edited at N° 12 and printed at N° 18. In 1892 the Socialist press cooperative is set up and buys N° 35. By 1900 circulation is 70,000 so largest premises bought at N° 33. 1906 Architect Richard Pruigiers (also Waucquez) architect of new building. Modernised 1920s by Joseph Wauters. 1931 completed by Fernand and Maxime Brunfaut. Post WWII backed by Prevoyance Sociale. 1974 moved to Gosselies. Editor remains here. 1978 building abandoned. Now Offices of the Delegation of Region of the Asturias to the European Union. Now houses ASTURIAS BUILDING Functional style. Tower like flag standard, glass stairwell. Cubist. Horizontality. Now houses EC Asturias Delegation. Return to Rue Montagne des Herbes Potagères Rue des Comédiens (on left) Outside the First city walls, this street was called the Zavelgracht (or sand ditch) in 1353. In 16th c it was the old market (selling second hand clothes/shoes once a week). Current name comes from a brewer who in 1650 built a large hall where traveling actors (from France) could perform. Morte Subite café – 7 Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagères) Currently covered in scaffolding – façade being renovated. Should be ready by mid-July. Illustration of Place de Brouckère in Belle époque era complete with trams. Worth showing. Photos of famous visitors include Annie Cordy, and Jacques Brel. Other visitors: Gérard Dupardieu (filming in Brux), Maurice Béjart, and Prince Philippe (before he married, not now). Interesting photo of Vossen family who founded brewery on wall. The „t Serclaes building opposite (originally a 19th century bank) is currently being renovated, but the “Morte Subite” story of bank clerks on long lunch hours is still worth telling! In 1863 a glove shop. Rebuilt 1902 by F. Kielbaey – bricks and blue stone. 1910 Transformed into café-resto called “La Cour Royale” by Paul Hamesse for Théophile Vossen. Interior style néo-Louis XVI”. Wooden panelling, ionic pilasters, mirrors, garlands and remains of balcony for orchestra. 1927 > Mort Subite” – too few bank guichets opposite. Clients whiled away time at Pitjesbak/draughts/Jeu de dés and called for “Sudden death” to finish the game. Also a Gueuze beer. 1964: Jacques Brel wrote “Amsterdam” here. Modern sculpture – cat on Bicycle – Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagères Bicycle invented in 1861, Dunlop pneumatic tyre in 1888. Rubber was readily available from the Congo, 85 times larger than Belgium. 1896 – 19,500 bicycle plates delivered in Brussels Rue Fossé aux Loups - Belga Queen Plaque of famous Belgians (all periods !) on left-hand wall.. Art on horses in centre plus oyster shell artwork by Vincent Strebell (1987) Revamped oyster bar. Original glass panelled roof – port holes on left-hand side (ship?)Opening hours 12-14.30 and 19-24 h; Average meal: €50. www.belgaqueen.be Former bank and Hôtel de la Poste. Style « Belle époque ». Dining in the old bank vaults. Place de la Monnaie Cultural magnet - also theatres, concerts, operettas, circuses, opera and ballet (for the rich). For bourgeoisie, cinemas, café-concerts, music halls. Vaudeville, Alcazar. Post vaulting of Senne: Théâtre de la Bourse (burnt down) on site of Hôtel Centrale > since 2002 Marriott Hôtel. Théâtre du Pole Nord and L‟Olympia (founded 1897 for Expo). Opera: where Voltaire remarked you go to see and be seen. .1885: The Mastersingers (Paris 1897). Wagner‟s full Ring cycle planned here in 1903 (in Opera Garnier, Paris in 1911). Until mid century entertainments were only for the elite. But mentalities changes and Adolphe Samuel founded “Les concerts Popularires de Musique Classique” in 1865 - educative role. In 1872 he was succeeded by Joseph Dupont who promoted Wagner and other contemporary pieces which became hugely popular by the end of the 19th c. Music halls – popularized by massive arrival of French émigrés 1871 (Franco-Prussian War) View La Gaîté and Le Caméo. Rue de l‟Evêque So called after Archbishop of Mechelen who had a fine residence here in 1570. Under French “Rue des Innocents”. Truncated part of Rue de l‟Ecuyer. Rue des Halles ( illustration) Covered market here between 1872 and 1956 - destroyed to make way for huge 1958 car park). “Les Grands magasins d‟alimentation Victor Wygaerts” N° 41-45 founded in 1875. Two statues sculpted in 1874 by Louis Samain (1834-1901) were used to decorate the Central Markets. They represent “Land” and “Sea”. They are now inside the gardens of Chi Chis – a restaurant on Boulevard Adolphe Max, opposite De Brouckère metro. Place St. Catherine N° 10 Desmecht Herboristerie Herbalist and dietetics shop (1840) 1740 on façade. Initially, the Fuhr sisters sold food for children. Since 1970 it has been a luxury druggist. Public Urinal on left-hand side of St. Catherine‟s church, one of the few remaining. The River Senne had always been a depository for human waste. Foul-smelling streets =“Pisstrotje”. 1845: first urinals > 1870 Urinal war: a) reduce number of urinals as they “offended public decency” b) erect more to cope with increasing population, especially in cafés = voting sites. Fines imposed to stop people using the Senne, vaulted 1857-1861. Anspach fountain (1897), Place de Brouckère had a public urinal beneath it until 1973 when transferred to Place St. Catherine. King Leopold 1st‟s physician, Dr. Seutin, proposed a urinal in every street. A single urinal was judged insufficient, a double urinal was considered immoral so the council opted for 4 cubicles on each site as mains water supply was available from 1855. Most popular locations: town hall inner courtyard, by St. Gudule church, near Godfrey of Bouillon statue (Place Royale). Originally 120 in the Brussels Pentagon. Women? No equality of the sexes during the Belle Epoque - assumed to spend their time at home. Public Conveniences for women at: La Bourse, Porte de Namur, Place Fontainas, Anspach Fountain. Men = free but women were charged 10 cts (= v. expensive). 1910 “The Good Loo Guide” A 16-page leaflet “Indicateur des urinoirs de Bruxelles” cost 10 cents. Preface stated: 2,247 cafés but only 102 urinals (= 1 urinal for 30,000 people). Urinals came in various forms: urinoirs pavillons, adossés, enclaves, ordinaires, en sous-sol, à toiture, modèle de Paris, autour d‟un réverbère and bacs à fonte. Many disappeared during construction of North-South Junction (1907-1952). By 1977 only six were left. This is one of the last. Butchers Shop Ghysels (1900) 24, Rue St. Catherine The wall is decorated with hooks, a reminder of when this was a sheep butchers (Houkens). Current owners (since 1981) used to own a farm and are very experienced in the meat processing industry. Coin de Rue – gentlemen‟s outfitters - Rue Melsens 26 (= Louis MELSENS (1814-1886) Chemist and naturalist). 19th illustrations in shop window (right-hand side). Founded 1870 initially in Rue du Marais. (see brochure). Prices 1881: A coat: 70 francs, A suit 105 or 65 fr. 100-year Cinema monument (erected 21st June, 1996) – Rue Melsens Designed by Patrick Rimoux (born 1958) 100 directors/films. Casablanca, North North West,. Actors: Gerard Depardieu, Charlie Chaplin, John Wayne, David Hemmings, Hailey Mills, etc. Stills from old films like Chaplin, Mary Pickford and Buster Keaton. Nearby Joseph Plateau street (1801-1883)– an early cinema pioneer of 19th century who experimented with light on the retina and went blind. Note pavement design –working of a 16-slot disk with images in between giving an illusion of movement known as the Phenakistiscope invented in 1831. The word "phenakistoscope" comes from Greek roots meaning "to cheat", as it deceives the eye by making the pictures look like an animation. Old Electricity Power station (1892-3) – Rue Melsens Built 1892-3.contained two Steam machines supplying regular current. Enlarged several times in 10 years to keep pace with rising population and reinforced by 2 secondary stations in rue de Louvain et rue de la Vanne. In 1901 architect Devreux modernised the complex by adding a new machine room facing Rue Melsens with another facing Place Sainte-Catherine. The workshops were grouped around the site and linked the machine room to the offices. The ground floor has been adapted for shops. The other floors are still original. The facade in blue and white stone with metallic piers is a discreet reference to the old church. Electricity revolutionized transport, e.g. electric trams and heightened mobility since it was no longer necessary to live near one‟s work. For a long time it was an unemployment office. Since the 21st June, 2006 the offices of the Cultural department of the city of Brussels (2nd floor). Advisory/Counseling Centre (1st floor). Listed since 1998. Exhibition in September will be: Karen Knor – Fables (modern photographer) “The summer of Photography”. Huge block also a mental health and social centre. Listed building since 1998. Electricity was 1st used by Humphrey Davy 1801. Lamps were powered by batteries until in 1869 Zenobe Gramme, a Belgian technician invented a dynamo or electric generator.10 years later public lighting by electricity. By 1882: Monnaie theatre and Royal Park Theatre lit by electricity, cleaner and less dangerous. Spread to luxury hotels, large shops and banks. 1885: First Belgian power station (rue de la Blanchisserie) Problems: high cost and limited life. 1890: spread to private companies. Soon Liège, Brussels and Ghent went electric. By 1906, 3 years before Leopold died it was possible to link up power stations and by 1909 electricity had spread to some 40% of Belgium‟s municipalities. Trams were electrified and electricity installed in Laeken Palace. Electric trams: first prototype shown in 1881. By 1893 Liège and Brussels inaugurated first trolley car services. Pylons proposed. Excess production soon led to investments abroad in Germany, Italy, Spain and France). Belgium is powered 60% by nuclear energy. Val St. Lambert Brussels HQ (1825-1914) – Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains 5 Built: 1911-13 in Beaux-Arts style (= female heads on capitals, consoles with hanging foliage. Inside: First floor meeting room: Hall of mirrors – mini Versailles - with crystal vases, imitation marble and gold mouldings) by Oscar Francotte. Site of abolished Augustine convent, converted into army bakery, shops and workshops. From 1914-1965 it was the HQ of Val St. Lambert Crystal. Since 1980s: Flemish cultural café De Merckten under the sign of “De Kristallen Bol” Val St. Lambert = 12th c Cistercian convent suppressed in 1796. 1826: site transformed into crystal manufactory near River Meuse. Present in over 40 countries, it supplies royalty. Known for its prestigious unique pieces/trophies and “double coloured cut" crystal pieces (currently filing for bankruptcy)! KBC Bank – Rue Dansaert Top of façade – bunches of bananas and huge green leaves (decorated 1927) Importance of Congo, Belgium‟s new colony! Antoine Dansaert =first president of the Bourse when it opened in 1873. Peeing Zinneke dog statue - corner of Rue de Chartreux Bronze pissing dog by Tom Frantzen (b 1954) Here since 13/5/2000. Humorous allusion to Manneken Pis. Houring dags who used to carry goods in earlier times. Zinneke means along Senne/Zinnik River which rises in Soignies in Hainault. Also mongrel dog thrown into river as believed possessed by the devil. A Zinneke is a person of mixed parentage fr/nl. Old State Railway Depot - 17A Rue St. Christophe Importance of railways in period – first trains in Europe 1835, etc. Site recently renovated > (Cie Chr. Travailleurs, Alimentation, Agriculture, Tabac, Hôtellerie inaugurated on 25.6.1993). Behind the façade, a disaffected church complete with turret, has now been converted into offices!) Rue des Chartreux (so named since 1853) Previously DrieMolenstraat from 13th c mills. Charterhouse* Carthusian convent founded 16th c , suppressed in 1783 and church “Notre Dame de Sommeil” now demolished. There are 2 (1999) in the form of metallic trees “Ceci n‟est pas un arbre*?” Gas lighting quickly followed by electric lighting by 1897. Street of the Surrealists … N° 42 watch shop “Demarteuau, Maurice. Remnants of old tower. Granite stones on road show line of 1st city walls. Le Greenwich café (1907) – 17 Rue des Chartreux Inside – July 14th article in English (The Bulletin) explaining chess club “Le Morphy” and Magritte*‟s inability to sell his paintings as the players were too busy playing chess! Art Nouveau style: glass and wrought iron. Hang out of Surrealists. Back room has glass cupola in yellow and black pattern. At rear left (early Telephone booth) right toilets. Wonderful photo of 19th c men in top hats sitting outside. Next to them English beer signs: Pale Ale, Scotch Ale and Bass Tavern, etc. Belgium had 3500 breweries before First World War (40 in Brussels alone before WWI). So-called because English beer was served here. Meeting point for artists such as René Magritte and Paul Nougé who wrote captions to Magritte‟s paintings: e.g. “Ceci n‟est pas une pipe”. . Art Nouveau: obelisk and scrolls, wrought iron/glass. 1901 Cash register at back (rhs). Jan 2007: Bought by Kees Eijrond, the Director of Rosas, dance company of choreographer Anna Teresa De Keersmaker. 3 films shot here: 1. L‟Orchestre Rouge 28.3.1989 with Claude Brasseur (1989), 2. L‟Arriviste by Samy Pavel and 3. Femme entre chien et loup by André Delvaux. Interesting Bulletin article dated July 14th, 1988 in foyer. Belgian beer scene: from 1840 advent of dark beers from Germany and England and the invention of “pils” from the Czech Republic. Beer in mass production in the 1880s. The Wielemans-Ceuppens family is soon the country‟s leader. Pont de la Carpe Originally River Senne flowed at this point. Place St. Géry Old covered market designed by Vanderheggen Inaugurated 1882. Style Flemish neo-Renaissance style.(1882-1973).Listed building 1987. Renovated 10 years later. Brussels Heritage centre since 1999. Open every day from 10-18 so possible to walk through (Toilets!) Inside fountain (1767 Grimbergen Abbey). Vaulting of the River Senne (1867-1871): Remnant behind „Le Lion de St. Gery‟ café. What contributed to disappearance of the Senne: 1. Its weak flow – pollution 2. Creation of the Brussels-Charleroi Canal (1832). 3. New water connection from Braine l‟Alleud 4. Disappearance of numerous sources due to the deforestation of the Soignes forest. Borgval Exit to Pathé Palace on left-hand side (Cinema in middle of block with exits on all sides). First cinema to have flush toilets! Boulevard Anspach Major factors changed the city in mid 19th c. 1. Abolition of City tolls (1860) enabling city to expand 2. Exodus of rich from the centre to the new suburbs 3. 1867 law - enabling creation of new districts 4. 3 epidemics of cholera 1832, 1848, 1866. Absence of public transport forced workers to live near work – overcrowded slums in down town led to propagation of disease – unworthy of new capital. Anspach‟s inspiration from Haussmann, the Prefet who had modernized Paris. He re-designed the central boulevards; the River Senne had been the industrial heartland of Brussels before new quarters spread out in Molenbeek, Koekelberg and Anderlecht. On each side were railway tracks between l‟Allée Verte and the Place des Bogards. Tram tracks linked stations together. Property owners were indemnified and tenants re-housed. New boulevards 30 metres wide – vaulted section: 2.2 km. 2 lateral conduits for drainage. Central collectors 6 m in diameter. The gas station along the Senne continued to provide gas lighting along the new boulevards. Pathé Palace 85.Boulevard Anspach (1913 – Arch. Paul Hamesse) Pathé symbol: cockerel on roof. Previously films had been bought or offered with projection equipment (for fairgrounds). In 1902 Charles Pathé, bought Lumière patents and designed improved studio camera. 1907: instigated hiring of films/distribution network – more lucrative. Was film director - own studios at Vincennes. Fairground films rapidly disappeared – city cinemas mushroomed. (1st in Paris 1906).Inaugurated: 18th Dec, 1913 on site of an old Sale Room/ Casino de la Bourse. Seating capacity: 2,500. Double gallery and semi-eliptical cinema. Various bars behind and on ground floor. 3 cabins: films/projector/ transformers + first to have a Safety curtain. It was Brussels‟ first purpose-built, luxury “temple” to the cinema. It has been estimated that 60% of all films before 1914 were shot with the Pathé improved studio camera. Only serious rival Léon Gaumont (25% of market).Cinemas in Brussels - Before WWI: most cinemas were along the Central boulevards/ Rue Neuve. First cinema=1905, 1906= 6, 1910:=33, 1914:=79.(sort of Belgian Leicester square!) Early cinemas in workshops, garages, shops, theatres, chapels (curtains over windows). The Cinéma Américain (Place de Brouckère 36) took the place of 3 houses. 1907: Eden theatre (Rue Neuve 153-5) seating and standing known as “le cinema Blijf stôn History: after being empty for many years in 1998 it became the new cinema Kladaradatsch! And briefly housed National Theatre. It is to be renovated to become Centre for Belgian films. Currently owned by French Community. La Bourse (Stock Exchange) – vaulting the Senne, Temple to money, etc. Centre of Tram system. Story of butter market 1 m 50 plots rented out at 5 centimes/ month. 1805: sewer flowed under church. Mayor ordered clean-up 9-days work under pain of fines! 1815: temporary site for battle of Waterloo victims. 20,000 wounded were housed outside hospitals (St. John/St. Peter). 1853 Stall rents reduced from 3 to 1 year lease. The City wanted a cancellation clause in the contract because of rumours of a railway to be built through the centre. At all times it was a strategic site. 1861 Burgomaster Jules Anspach reduced lease to 6 months. 1868 – 1st January the remaining 120 stands moved to Place St. Géry. 1881-2 covered market built in Place St. Gery (5 minutes from this site). For English: the bourse was completed during the Franco-Prussian war. Belgium was not involved but French stone could not be delivered so British stone (Portland) was ordered instead IRONY – temple of money replaces a mendicant order! Inauguration: 27th December, 1873: 4000 people: Jules Anspach, Leopold II, Marie-Henriette and Philippe, Count of Flanders, father of future King Albert 1). Anecdote: In 1878 some stones fell from the cornice onto the street (Rue de la Bourse) narrowly missing a policeman on duty. Someone joked that the street should be renamed Rue des Pierres Tombées. There was considerable rebuilding after the vaulting and by 1881: the square in front was officially named Place de la Bourse. Le Cirio – Rue de la Bourse (tel 02 512 13 95) Built 1909. Drink half-en-half – speciality (Spumante and Italian white wine). Founded by Francesco Cirio 1886. Originally Shop selling italian specialities and a café. Factory in Turin. First producer of tinned tomatoes!. Had 18 shops in Europe: Moscow, Zurich, Paris, St. Petersburg, etc. Brussels is only one left. On back wall gold medals won at World fair at Crystal Palace 1851. Shop closed now just café. Period photographs. Left-hand side: photo of Jacques Brel who filmed “La Bande à Bono” here c 1965 with Annie Girardeau. Rear wall: poster for Minerva Motors (Belgian car – made in Berchem, Antwerp). Old advert for Claridges hotels. Antique cash register (Dayton Ohio). Other films made here: “benvenuta” with Michael York, V. Gassman and Fany Ardant. And “Belle de Jour” with Catherine Deneuve (Delvaux). Two gas lamps adapted for electricity. “S” tap for gas still visible. BREL, Jacques (1929-1978) Filmed in Roi d‟Espagne and Le Cirio next to Bourse. Ate at Chez Vincent and Aux Armes de Bruxelles. Favourite meal: croquettes de crevettes, sole meunière and crêpes. Boulevard Anspach > Rue Marché aux Poulets L‟Alhambra (now car park) – Rue Emiel Jacqmain.- known for its Operettas by Offenheim. 3 main shops: “Les Galeries et Grand Bazar Anspach” built in 1898. aka “Grand Bazar”. “Grands Magasins de la Bourse” created in 1864 by the Frères Théry at the corner of Marché aux Poulets and Rue de Fer N° 21 (burnt down 1948) now Pizza Hut. Grande Maison du Blanc – 32, Rue Marché aux Poulets Architect: Oscar François for cloth merchant E. Lefevre in 1896 in eclectic style. 13 ceramic panels by Privat Livemont to the glory of commerce and industry. Voluptuous allegorical women show the wide range of goods on sale, underwear, hats, embroidery, lace, etc. Listed: 1991. Sgraffito –Lily/Iris (?) flowers, ladies à la Mucha. Art Nouveau. Façade: “Bonneterie, Dentelle, corsets, layettes, trousseaux, lingerie, toile, linge de table, cotton, tapis, rideaux, robes, tissues, manteaux” – on façade » > a hotel, snooker hall, food gallery and luna-park. Purchased 1997, financed by European Amusement Palace Golden Casino + Japanese restaurant Kabuki on ground floor. Recently renovated. Listed: 1991. N° 41: Hayot « linge de maison » 1898-1998 supplier to the Court. Mention: Rue au Beurre N° 34 - De Greef (1848) family jewellers Founder Prosper De Greef. Official supplier to the Belgian railway company. (Clocks for stations). Received a gold medal in “Luxury and Jewellery sector” during world exhibition. N° 31 - Dandoy (1829) Biscuit shop: Neo-Renaissance frontage. 1858 founder: Jean-Baptiste Dandoy. Set up ovens and bakery. Still in family hands. Old biscuit moulds for Speculoos – caramel and cinnamon biscuits – shape of a mirror. Speciality: Pain à la Grecque – mistranslation of bakery near the ditch (ramparts) = graacht. Not Greek. Opposite Leonidas chocolates! 1864: Baudelaire bought his pain d‟épices here . Stayed at Le Grand Miroir, 32-4, Rue de la Montagne (plaque). Speciality iscuits (« Pain à la Grecque »), waffles and speculoos ice cream. Established by JeanBaptiste Dandoy. Biscuits made on the site until 1960s. The Grasshopper toyshop – 39 Rue Marché aux Herbes Has been a toyshop for about 15 years. On façade : « Ceramiques artistiques, porcelaines & faïences anglaises, porcelaines de Limoges, cristalleries de Baccarat, Cristalleries du Val St. Lamberg. J. Rossum-Voet ( see « R » and « V » on stone on 3rd floor. The Great Butchers Hall - now Flanders Tourist Office – Rue Marché aux Herbes The Grand Boucherie", located behind the City Museum sold beef until its collapse in 1917. Rue des Bouchers "Vicus Carificum" (1294),"Vleeshouwersstrate"(1364). Middle Ages - inhabited by pork butchers, sausage merchants, tripe butchers. Originally, the "bouchers" were only allowed to sell "bouc" (goat) and mutton. It has many 17th c. stepped gables, scrolls, ancient doors. N° 58, a narrow passage > "Résidence Centrale", an oasis has an elegant bronze fountain named "La Cracheuse" by Idel Ianchelevici. N° 70 Locksmith museum, where the late Guillaume Dehaen, the former treasurer of the Ilot Sacré, had amassed his collections. N° 53 shop established by Xavier Lauffer, a refugee from the Alsace, in 1871. N° 13, "Aux Armes de Bruxelles", old tavern bought by Calixte Veulemans in 1921 and still family-owned. Rue des Dominicains In 18th c this street was laid out in Dominicans convent gardens. When the convent was suppressed in 1797, the French called it “Rue de la Démolition". 1815 > Petite Rue des Dominicains. 1851 "petite" dropped. « Gaz aux étages » plaque : Town gas discovered by Professor Minckelers, a scientist at Louvain University at end of 18th c. Brussels was the first city to introduce gas in 1819. For 1st half of 19th c European cities lit by gas. 1892: Auer‟s improvements to gas jets made them brighter using an incandescent mantle burner. Photo: first continental gasworks founded in 1818 on Corner of Rue St.Roch opposite the National Theatre (now restaurant la Melodie du goût) (Photo). Plaque : « Ici s‟érigea en 1818 la première usine à gaz du continent sous les auspices du collège des bourgmestres et échevins de la ville de Bruxelles et de la Société civile Meeûs – posé par l‟Association des Gaziers Belges ». N° 8-10 Restaurant Chez Vincent f 1905 Wooden frontage: 1913 (architect Maurice Grimme). Ceramic scenes from the Belgian coast: flooded polders, birds flying over waves, lambs on salt flats, etc. Listed since 2001.Previously, briefly “Chez Madame Carpette” (brothel). Well known figures were compromised so it was soon shut down. Galerie du Prince Tropismes bookshop = Café des Princes designed 1895 by Laloux as a bar with music and dancing. New American Dances Beginning 20th – American dances make their appearance, one-step, twostep, java, the mazurka (promoted by Mistinguett), tango and foxtrot. Dances were a semi-official way to meet people of the opposite sex. Many theatres were converted into dance halls. Original ceiling. Struts in the form of St. Andrew‟s cross.Wrought iron columns and monumental pilasters. St Hubert Galleries - known as « Umbrella » of Brussels. 1882: Taverne du Passage founded (previously le Café des Arts) 1864: Baudelaire used to walk up and down the passage 8 times a day – his exercise. (250 steps) Galerie de la Reine: a) In 1847, a casino, a theatre and 4 cafés = new Brussels nightlife spot b) „Plaque on wall “Frères Lumière” 1896 first cinema showing a series of short films : 130 spectators, including burgomaster Charles Buls. Very short films, bathing scenes etc. event ran for 4 months. Offices of “La Chronique” newspaper. In 1896 the Alcazar added a film projection of its review called the “Brussels Kermesse”. c) N° 3 Ganterie Italienne (1890) Gloves There used to be a workshop on the first floor. When the owner died, the wife and then the daughter took over (until she was 83). Current owners here 10 years. Cardboard drawers replaced by wooden drawers in 1945. d) N° 25-7 Neuhaus (1857) chocolates Jean Neuhaus and his brother-in-law, a pharmacist opened their « pharmaceutical confectionery » here. Products were manufactured in the cellars. e) Théâtre des Galeries – opened 1847 – specialised in “La Revue” an amusing satirical take on current events in Brussels dialect – Christmas . c 1881 Black minstrels come to Brussels for the first time and also sing at the Alcazar (where, in 1903, ragtime is heard for the first time).They introduce a new dance known as the “cake walk”. Rue Marché aux Herbes –>Entrance to Galerie Agora (1956) – Rue de la Madeleine 1908-10: huge café concert Wintergarten next to a short-lived cinema, „Diabolo”. The Agora cinema designed by Paul Hamesse in 1926, renamed the “Victory” after 1944 burnt down in 1959. Marjolaine (shop) - 7, Rue de la Madeleine : dolls, lace, fans, buttons, glass corkscrews in Art Nouveau boutique Shop on this site since 18th c. Old wooden beams used to rebuild after 1695 bombardment! The shop window redesigned in 1904. Architect Sneyers (pupil of Horta). The wooden panel that says Marjolaine has “Petters” written on the other side. Petters was a photographer who worked here from 1860. Listed façade: since 1998. It‟s been an antiques cum curio shop since 1958. Prior to that it was a bakery with an oven at the rear but it was closed down as it didn‟t meet minimum sanitary standards. The old shutter, defaced several times by graffiti, has now been painted professionally and is now no longer vandalised. (Madame Gilberte Cracco: 0477 26 1601) Bortier Gallery – Rue de la Madeleine Antique and second hand books. Open 10 – 18.30 Closed Sundays. Landed purchased by Pierre-Louis Antoine Bortier on 9th January 1847. Construction of a covered market and 3 public walkways to clear vegetable sellers from Rue Marchés aux Herbes et Rue Marché aux Poulets. 160,000 fr. Used to link up with Madeleine Covered market (exit Rue Duquesnoy). Later converted into an auditorium, corridor blocked off. Architect Jean-Claude Clysenaar. Lower section in neo-Renaissance style (illustration) > Mont des Arts . View of Ancient Art Museum: Huge advertisement campaign for opening of Magritte Museum - June 2009. (Note: Magritte born 1898 – just within period belle époque) Rue Villa Hermosa Site of Prince of Wales Café (illustration) now houses storerooms of Musical Instruments Museum. Since the construction of the PBA/BOZAR this has become a cul-de-sac. Formerly it went down to Rue Terarken which before the 18th century was called the Jewish steps. The current “road” owes it name to the fact that the Duke of Villa Hermosa, Governor of the Low Countries from 1675-1681 lived in a mansion in Rue Terarken. Old England – 2 Rue Montagne de la Cour Musical Instruments Museum – provide a list of highlights (on paper). Guide provides introduction to a) building b) contents. MIM: History of Musical Instruments Collection 1877 – New Royal Conservatory of Music had 80 old musical Instruments – by will of eminent musicologist, Francois-Joseph Fétis (1784-1871) + 97 Hindu instruments offered to King Leopold ========================================= Central fountain by Jos de Decker. Statue: Parable of the blind 1563 by Brueghel (church in St. Anne Pede, Payottenland). Blind men walk in single file, exhibiting different eye complaints. All hold a baton eye sockets exaggerated for better effect. Front man falls into a ditch pulling in all the others. Brussels decided in 1979 to install fountains as reminder of river. aka “Wallace Fountains” after an English philanthropist. Fountain + trough. Brussels followed lead of Paris. 3 levels: humans, horses, dogs. Rue de la Vierge Noire In lhs chapel in St Catherine‟s church is a 15th c black statue of Our Lady holding Jesus. It was thrown into the Senne in 1644 by Protestants and found floating on a lump of peat – venerated ever since. Site: rough ground given by John II of Brabant to the city in 1302 to construct a quayside (ancient port). Later Torf Sinne (peat for heating from Vilvoorde discharged here). With new port built a road built near here (1610). End of road “Parking 58” by P.D. Haverloose and A. Lipski was the site of the old wooden crane (1291 > Rue Marché aux Poulets > d II by an Indian Rajah. 1927-97: Housed in unsuitable premises off Petit Sablon. By 1997 > collection = 7000. Now housed in 3 buildings. 1500 instruments on display. Description Metal framework: traditional brick and stone kept for party walls. Gothico-Renaissance foliage capitals. Fluted metal columns. Rainwater drainage down wrought iron columns with concave profiles, cylindrical pipes. Façade: gable, dome and extension (covered loggia) Barbican/gatehouse juts out 1.10m. Lhs: turret crowned with wrought iron decorative work. Originally lighting ran right down the length of the turret and lit whole area. Facades mostly glass to enable maximum light to promote merchandise. Rhs: obelisk - humorous eclecticism (to blend with nearby neo classical buildings). Lift: 23 feet. Wrought iron balconies were added to windows could be cleaned. (cf façade of VH‟s Innovation). Each floor: monogrammed Old England (O.E.). Metal structure painted brown and green (to stand out from white neo-classical facades). Vegetal decoration: lilies (?) With enamelled ochre and orange toned tiles. Patterned tiles reflect various countries where goods came from. Mercury‟s wand (commerce), shell = travel, UK crown over Crest of England (3 lions), Scotland (thistle), Wales (harp) and Ireland (shamrock). Frieze 2nd and 3rd floors: flowers and poppy seed heads. Frieze 4th floor: oak leaves and acorns. On each floor merchandise indicated in both French and English. Inside lift: Indian chestnut tree pattern perhaps because India was the UK‟s largest colony? Interior lit by huge globes. Period of metallic facades relatively short vogue as was quickly superseded by reinforced concrete. Lion heads under wrought iron balustrade (Lion is symbol of Britain and Belgium). Ground floor: dolphin pattern on wrought iron columns near entrance. Tea terrace: panoramic view of city. (Accompany guests to Palais des Beaux-Arts. End approximately 17.30) Miscellaneous: Sunday excursions (all classes) to the Bois de la Cambre. C 1880s forerunners of nightclubs, called “salons” or “cours” often located above local cafés. Frequented by the low middle classes, workers and employees alike. Depending on the area, people dressed up. Even the Marolles – c 1875: the old Brigittines church (not in use since 1795) used as a dance hall. Admission: 5 centimes. The 1919 Vandevelde Law There was a tightening up of the fight against alcoholism in various European countries and the United States during the First World War. Individual/ private initiatives were relegated to second place in Belgium during 1914-1918 when the State took the reins in the fight against alcoholism on behalf of the general well-being of the population. The promulgation of "La loi sur le Régime de l'alcool" and "La loi concernant les débits des Boissons Fermentés" on August 29, 1919 was the final step in this change in opinion. Three factors played a definitive part in the preparation of these laws: 1) anti-alcohol legislation promulgated by the Belgian Authorities 1914-18 to maintain army order and discipline; 2) the need to pull together for national reconstruction, and 3) the influence that Emile Vandervelde, the leader of the Belgian Workers Party had on his entry into the government of the "Union Sacreé". Useful contacts 1. Local policeman (on duty in hotel): Mr. Marc d‟Helt 0486 493 357 – policeman@tele2allin.be He recommends 2 local experts: 2. “Willy” one of the guardians in the Hôtel de Ville (was concierge at the Metropole for 40 years) 3. “Monsieur Dadi” who works aux Armes de Bruxelles, Rue des Bouchers is a mine of information about the Ilot Sacré area.