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     W         est

Above the 1 Chinatown
Gate at Bush and Grant        Day One
is the inscription: “All un-      CHINATOWN
der Heaven is for the
good of the people.” Chinatown, San Francisco’s
densest neighborhood, runs roughly 8 blocks long
and 6 blocks wide. Settled in the 1860s by Chinese
immigrant railroad workers, miners and farm labor-
ers, Chinatown was leveled by the ’06 quake.
Gradually rebuilt, this packed neighborhood has
been home to Chinese Americans for 130 years.
At Grant and California St., 2 two pagoda-like build-
ings — the Sing Chong Building and the Sing Fat
Building — face the 1853 gothic revival 3 Old St.
Mary's, built by Chinese laborers. In St. Mary’s
Square is sculptor Beniamino Bufano’s stainless steel
and rose granite statue of 4 Sun Yat Sen.
If you’re looking for for jewelry and sculpture, start
your shopping at the 5 China Gem Co. (500 Grant;
415-397-5070). Up Sacramento a half-block is
Waverly Place and the 6 Clarion Music Center (816
Sacramento; 415-391-1317), which demonstrates
and sells many different Chinese instruments. Note
the 7 Taoist Tien Hou Temple on the top floor of 125
Waverly. The 8 Canton Bazaar (616 Grant; 415-
362-5750) has sculpture, ceramics and furniture. At
9 Kee Fung Ng Gallery (757 Grant; 415-434-1844)
you can have “chops” — sealing stones with your
name in Chinese and English — made while you wait.
                              Rest awhile in 10 Ports-
                              mouth Square (Kearny
                              St. between Clay and
                              Washington) where chil-
                              dren romp and the el-
                              derly play Chinese chess.
                              When San Francisco was
                              still Yerba Buena in the
                              1840s, this was the town
                              square. Take the foot
                              bridge across Kearny to

                              Chinatown roofscapes
                              S.F. CONVENTION AND
                              VISITORS BUREAU PHOTO
                              BY CAROL SIMOWITZ

Stylers Art Gallery                                 LENNY LIMJOCO

the Holiday Inn. On the third floor is the 11 Chinese
Culture Center (750 Kearny; 415-986-1822), which
hosts art exhibits and performances, provides genealog-
ical research and gives guided tours through Chinatown.
12 Man Hing Arts of China (839 Grant; 415-989-5824)
and 1 3 Wai Hing (829 Grant; 415-956-8522)
sell beautiful ceramic s and carved ivory and
jade items, and across the street the 14 China Trade
Center (838 Grant; 415-837-1509), flanked by
impressive se ntinel lions, carries many typ es
of fine arts. For original Chinese paintings and furni-
ture, find your way to Wentworth Alley, off Grant and
Jackson, and 15 Y.K. Lau Studio and Y.K. Lau Furniture
(20 and 30 Wentworth). The owner of 16 Stylers
 Art Gallery (661 Jackson; 415-788-8639) will demon-
strate Chinese calligraphy and painting. If you’re
hungry, head to the 17 New Asia Dim Sum Restaurant
(772 Pacific; 415-391-6666) for Chinese breakfast
pastries and tea.
Walk over to 18 Stockton St., which is grocery central;
scores of shops feature the array of fresh foods so
important in Chinese cuisine: chickens, ducks, pigeons,
frogs, turtles, crabs, mussels, geoducks, catfish, squid,
and melons, greens and fruit of every hue. At Stockton
near Pacific, look for the 19 soaring mural by Darryl
Mar that graces the side of Ping Yuen housing proect.
20 Eastwind Arts & Books (1435 Stockton; 415-772-
5888) carries the city’s largest selection of Chinese
and other Asian literature. End your tour at the 21
Chinese Historical Society (644 Broadway, Suite
402; 415-391-1188), which has the most extensive
collection of Chinese American artifacts in America.

This Ellis Island of the
West is where, from 1910       Day Two
to 1940, authorities held         ANGEL ISLAND
Chinese immigrants until
they passed their entrance-to-the-U.S. exams. Have
a picnic. Tour the historic barracks. On the walls,
detainees wrote poems expressing their anger,
fears and hopes for life in the city they called Gam
Saan, the Golden Mountain. To get to 22 Angel
Island, take a ferry at Pier 41 (415-773-1188).

Shige Antiques in Japantown                 DENNIS TANIGUCHI

Japanese emigrated to
San Francisco in large num- Day Three
bers in the 1890s and lived         JAPANTOWN
largely South of Market
until the ’06 quake destroyed that neighborhood. They
moved to the Western Addition and established Nihon-
machi, now Japantown. You can experience the art
and culture of Japan by touring Japantown, especially
the three-block-long 23 Japan Center on Geary Blvd.
Start the day with Japanese pastries, mochi-gashi or
manju, at the 2 4 Benkyodo Coffee Shop (1745
Buchanan; 415-922-1244). Begin the art tour at the
25 Peace Plaza Pagoda at Post and Buchanan, a
100-foot-tall gift from Osaka. 26 Genji Antiques in the
Miyako Mall (22 Peace Plaza; 415-931-1616) fea-
tures kimonos, folk arts and home furnishings. On the
other side of the plaza in the Kintetsu Mall, halfway down
the hall is 27 Mikado Gift Store (415-922-9450),
which has Japanese folk arts, dolls and video games.
Hungry? 28 May’s Coffee Shop (415-346-4020)
has tai-yaki, fish-shaped pancakes filled with sweet
beans, and Japanese bento (box lunch) to go. Down

the hall at the 29 Ikenobo Ikebana Society (415-
567-1011) you can see traditional Japanese flower
arranging. 30 Taiyo-do Record Shop (415-885-
2 81 8) a t th e e nd of th e ha ll has t he l ate s t
music from Japan. Around the corner at 31 Gallerie
Voy age (41 5-567-31 00), a small ga llery o f
co ntem pora ry Ja panes e pa inting s, yo u can
schedule a demonstration of Japanese sumi-e
(brush painting) or calligraphy if you call ahead.
For lunch, try 32 Mifune Restaurant’s (415-922-0337)
home-made udon noodles, 33 Isobune’s (415-563-
1030) sushi with floating boat dishes, or 34 Benihana
(415-563-4844), where the food is prepared
with flair and cooked at your table. Across the Web-
ster St. bridge is the 35 San Francisco Taiko Dojo
Showroom (1581 Webster; 415-928-2456) — music
classes, contemporary art and information about taiko
drum concerts. Stop in at 36 Shige Antiques (1730
Geary; 415-346-5567) for beautiful kimonos. 37
Kinokuniya Bookstore (1581 Webster; 415-567-
7625) has all the best reference materials on Japan,
including art, culture, history and language, and its sta-
tionery store across the hall has a wide selection of
rice paper and stationery. Downstairs, 38 Asakichi
Japanese Antiques (1730 Geary; 415-921-2147)
sells folk arts, antiques and ceramics; in front of the store
is a replica of a castle from Osaka, San Francisco’s
sister city. Next door at 39 Juban Yaki-niku House
Japanese BBQ (1581 Webster; 415-776-5822),

     Theater and Dance
   Asian performing arts are thriving in San
   Francisco. Watch for Asian American Dance
   Performances, Asian American Theater
   Company, California Contemporary Dancers,
   Chinese Folk Dance Association, Duen Fung
   Ming (traditional Chinese opera), Eth-Noh-
   Tec Creations, First Voice, Kulintang Arts, Lily
   Cai Chinese Dance, Melody of China, Pala-
   buniyan, Pearl Ubungen Dancers & Musicians,
   Persona Grata, S.F. Gu-Zheng Music Society.

   S.F. Taiko Dojo showroom in Japantown   DENNIS TANIGUCHI

cook your own Japanese or Korean meals.
Leave the Japan Center and head up to 40 Maruwa
Food Co. (1737 Post; 415-563-1901), a grocery
store that has sushi and a deli for takeout lunch.
Across the street is 41 Hokubei Mainichi (1746 Post;
415-567-8707), a Japanese American daily newspaper
that is a great resource for events and sometimes gives
tours. 42 Tora-Ya Restaurant (1734 Post; 415-931-
5200), Japantown’s oldest restaurant, has good
food and reasonable prices. Next door is 43 Sharaku
(1726 Post; 415-929-9084), which sells Japanese
music and instruments. 44 Soko Hardware (1698
Post; 415-931-5510) — don’t be misled by the name
— carries Japanese art, tools and art supplies.



        63           62 61
45 Sakai K. Uoki Co. (1656 Post; 415-921-0514)
is the oldest grocery store in Japantown and known
widely for its impeccably fresh fish. At 46 Korea
House (1640 Post; 415-563-1388), which has good
food and reasonable prices, you can cook your own
Korean dinner. Stop in at 47 Paper Tree (1743
Buchanan; 415-921-7100) for origami samples and
rice paper. 48 Iroha Restaurant (1728 Buchanan;
415-922-0321) serves fresh homemade Chinese-style
ramen noodles, and 4 9 Sanko Cooking Supply
(1758 Buchanan; 415-922-8331) carries a nice
selection of ceramics and Japanese kitchenware.
The 50 Nichi Bei Kai building has a traditional Tea
Ceremony Room. Call in advance for reservations
(1759 Sutter; 415-751-9676).

        A Trip in Itself
   For a monster selection of pan-Asian foods,
   stop at Pacific Super (2900 Alemany Blvd.; 415-
   337-1628): sautéed crab, green mussels, blue
   crabs, octopus, shrimp in nine sizes, pom-
   pano, goat, duck gizzards, lemon grass, snow
   pea leaves and much more.

                                    Map courtesy of the
                                   San Francisco Examiner



Outside Japantown are
two destinations of impor- Day Four
tance to the Japanese       GOLDEN GATE PARK
community: 51 Japanese
Tea Garden and 52 Asian Art Museum (Golden Gate
Park on the Music Concourse).
The beautiful Tea Garden (415-752-1171), with tea
house, bridges and koi ponds, opened in 1894 and is
the oldest public Japanese garden in the United States.
The Asian Art Museum (415-379-8801) occupies a
wing of the M.H. de Young Memorial Museum (now
closed for renovations) and is the largest U.S. muse-
um dedicated entirely to Asian art. Its collection spans
6,000 years of history and includes all the great Asian
artistic traditions. The Asian Art museum will be open
until October 2001, then will close to prepare for
its move into the renovated Old Main Library build-
ing in Civic Center in 2002.

Balinese masked dance performance at the Asian Art Museum   ASIAN ART

Many newcomers from
the Pacific Rim have made      Day Five
their presence felt through-         RIM SHOTS
out San Francisco, some-
times in surprising places. Start out in the Tenderloin,
historically the city's underbelly, but today it bustles
with family life with kids playing in the street and
grocery stores well-stocked with Far East foods.
If you are here on Wednesday or Sunday, check out
the colorful 53 Heart of the City Farmers Market at
U.N. Plaza (Market and Seventh St.), the primary
source of fresh fruit and vegetables for the Vietnam-
ese, Cambodians, Laotians and Filipinos who call the
central city their home.

Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park       S.F. CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
                                                         PHOTO BY PHIL COBLENTZ

    Start with a dense, rich Vietnamese coffee at one of
    the bahn mi sandwich shops in the neighborhood:
    54 Mong Thu (248 Hyde), 55 Kim Hoang (393
    Eddy) or 56 Ba Le (571 Jones). These places spe-
    cialize in bargain-priced sandwiches of thinly sliced
    barbecued meats zesty with fresh jalapeño and cilantro
    on soft breads. For heartier appetites go to 57 Pho Hoa
    Restaurant (431 Jones; 415-673-3163) with its 24 types
    of noodle soup. The ultimate contains rare steak, well-
    done brisket and flank, tendons and tripe packed into
    a steaming tureen of noodles.
    Stroll down to Market St. and cross into lively SoMa.
    In addition to many artists on the edge, it is home to
    Filipino newcomers who — like the Southeast Asians
    in the Tenderloin — bring a family focus to an other-
    wise wild-side neighborhood. Visit 58 Arkipelago
    (953 Mission St.; 415-777-0108), the only publisher
    and major purveyor of books on Filipino arts and
    culture in the city. In the showroom pick up A r t
    Philippines or a T-shirt that sports the ancient Tagalog
    alphabet. Nearby, at the corner of Sixth St. and
    Folsom, is the 59 South of Market Rec Center (415-
    554-9532) which often displays the work of bud-
    ding young neighborhood artists.
    For lunch, hit the ever-popular 60 Tu Lan (8 Sixth
    St.; 415-626-0927), perhaps the first Vietnamese
    restaurant in San Francisco. This hole in the wall with
    a counter is packed with regulars. Spring rolls
    redolent with cilantro and lemon chicken salad
    with a peppery peanut and vinegar sauce are not
    to be missed.

    For more varied Asian venues, you have to head south.
    Top off your lunch with Mitchell's prize-winning ice
    cream (688 San Jose Ave.; 415-648-2300), includ-
    ing flavors from the islands found nowhere else —
    halo halo, macapuno, ube, and unusual domestic fla-
    vors such as cantaloupe, pumpkin and, yes, avocado.
    A few miles farther is the best-known Filipino venue in
    the Bay Area: Goldilocks Bake Shop (3535 Callan Blvd.,
    South San Francisco; 650-873-0565), almost a com-
    munity center in its popularity. This spacious food empo-
    rium features a full menu from adobo to lecho, pancit
    and noodles. For dessert, try leche flan, halo halo or
    moist mango or sponge cake. Not far is Max's (1155
    El Camino Real, South San Francisco; 650-872-2465)
    for crispy chicken, juicy pork and beef barbecue.
    Head back to San Francisco for some shopping in
    stores featuring items from the Pacific Islands. The
    Pacific Islander Cultural Assn. (415-281-0221) has
    the best information about events, services, food and
    merchandise. Highlights include the 61 Hawaii Store
    (2655 Judah; 415-566-0111) for art, music and
    clothing. If you’re hungry, stop in at 62 Punahele
    Island Grill (2650 Judah; 415-759-8276).
    April, May and June watch for the United States of Asian
    America Festival, a program of dance music, theater,
    literary readings and visual arts at various venues
    sponsored by the Asian Pacific Islander Cultural Center
    While on the Pacific side, have dinner at one of the
    city's first Vietnamese restaurants, for many years a lone-
    ly outpost on San Francisco's western edge, but now
    a popular venue most famed for its succulent roasted
    crab: 63 Thanh Long (4101 Judah; 415-665-1146).

Civic Center Farmers Market                       LENNY LIMJOCO

   Palabuniyan Kulintang at the Filipino American Arts’ Pistahan

   There’s a celebra-
   tion almost every Festivals
   month in the Asian
   community, joyous events with food, music,
   dance: Chinese New Year Parade in February,
   Vietnamese Tet Festival in February, Asian
   American Film Festival in March, Japanese
   Cherry Blossom Festival in April, Cambodian
   New Year Festival in April, Korean Min-Sok
   Festival in May, Asian American Jazz Festival
   in May, Fiesta Filipina in June, Samoan Flag
   Day in June; S.F. Butoh Festival in mid-sum-
   mer, Aloha Festival in August at the Presidio
   parade grounds, Nihonmachi Street Fair in
   Japantown in August, Pistahan/Filipino Ameri-
   can Arts Exhibition in August, Chinatown
   Autumn Moon Festival in September. Check
   local papers for dates.

Radio and TV: Radio
Seoul 1400 AM (415- Resources
567-3685); Channel 66
(415-243-8866); Fuji Telecast, Ch. 26 (415-775-
1311); Tokyo TV, Ch. 26 (415-467-8500).
Newspapers: Asian Week (415-397-0221) weekly;
Chinese Times (415-576-1323) daily; Hokube Mainchi
(415-567-7323) daily; Korea Central Daily News
(415-522-5100); Manila Mail (650-992-5474)
weekly; Nichi Bei Times (415-921-6820) daily;
Philippine News (650-872-3000) weekly; Sing Tao
Daily (650-872-1188).


Diverse City Destinations is a series of 10 self-guided
itineraries that will immerse the visitor in the best of
San Francisco’s culture, ethnic heritage and arts:
Art to Architecture, Culture on the Edge, East Is
West, Jazz and Blues, Jewish Heritage, Natural
Wonders, Pride, Raíces/Latino Roots, Soul in the
City, and Tour de Force.
The Diverse City Destinations project was funded
by the San Francisco Mayor’s Office through the
Grants for the Arts/Hotel Tax program, and written
and designed by San Francisco Study Center. Much
of the information in these brochures was developed
by the Study Center for “California: Culture’s Edge,”
a project of the Art Commissions of San Francisco,
Los Angeles and San Diego, the Los Angeles Convention
and Visitors Bureau, and the National Endowment
for the Arts. Community advisory committees of
local artists, civic leaders and representatives of
the visitor industry contributed to the original
project. Diverse City Destinations acknowledges
their efforts with thanks.
We hope you will enjoy San Francisco in all its
variety. Because entry information may change,
be sure to phone ahead before venturing out.
We welcome your comments. Please let us know
whether you found this brochure useful.
Diverse City Destinations on the Web www.destinationsf.com
Comprehensive listing of city arts activities  www.sfArts.org
San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau    www.sfvisitor.org

COVER:   Lily Cai Chinese Dance, Begin from Here

LOGO:   Embarcadero Promenade Ribbon and Bay Bridge

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