NEW KITTEN CARE GUIDE ResQMe Farms Cattery is determined to provide you with a healthy happy wellsocialized kitten. One of the ways we do this is by keeping each kitten with its mother for as long as it needs to be. It has been proven over and over that the longer a kitten is nurtured by its mother the easier that kitten adjusts to new situations. The temperament and health of that kitten is better in the long run. We also provide the following information to help new owners integrate their new pet with the least amount of stress to both the new owner and the kitten. Many of our clients are first time kitten owners and we hope this answers many of your questions. For our clients with prior experience with new pets, feel free to peruse this information for some new tips! Things You Need Prior to Bringing Your Kitten Home: As with bringing any new family member into your home, there are things you need to do to prepare for a new kitten. First, you’ll need to decide what space will be allocated to your kitten for bedding, feeding, litter box, toys, and storage of litter, food, grooming supplies, etc. Make sure you leave adequate space between your kitten’s litter box and food saucers so that litter isn’t mixed into the feeder/waterer. Your kitten will come with some samples. Supplies that we use in our cattery are outlined below. You have some time after bringing your kitten home to do some shopping for things, but you will absolutely need to have the following things ready: Plastic tablecloth or sheeting and/or place mats for litter box and food/water saucers, enough food to last until you can get back to the store (we advise you not to change your kitten’s food right away, if at all), litter box and litter, and some type of bedding/hidey hole for your kitten. WalMart sells a soft cube with fleece on the bottom and a toy hanging from the inside top for about $14. This item kills two birds with one stone by providing both a comfortable bed and a hidey hole for your kitten to go when it needs to feel safe. With those things on hand, you can then take a few days to get to know your kitten and decide what other items you would like to purchase for it. Health/Vaccinations: Your new kitten will come to you with age appropriate kitten vaccinations, which normally means they have received at least two and perhaps all three of the baby shots. We give Fort Dodge Fel-O-Vax IV, which immunizes against respiratory and systemic infections. These vaccinations are given at 6, 9 and 12 weeks. We do not immunize against feline leukemia or feline AIDS because there is much controversy regarding the safety of these vaccines if given prior to one year old. Therefore, we leave the decision to vaccinate your kitten for these diseases up to you and your veterinarian (vet). If you receive your kitten prior to 16 weeks of age, your kitten will not have been vaccinated for rabies. States vary in the requirements for this vaccination, but we highly recommend that you have all of your domestic pets vaccinated against rabies at 16 weeks of age. If you receive your kitten prior to 6 months of age, your kitten will not be altered (spayed or neutered). Unless you have purchased your kitten with breeding rights, you are required to have your kitten altered at approximately 6 months of age. Once proof that your kitten has been altered is received, we will provide you with the original registration documentation so that you may register your pet. You should research for yourself and discuss with your vet any other preventative care you feel is appropriate for your pet. Your kitten should receive booster shots
Page 2 annually or as prescribed by your vet. Your kitten will come to you with all of the medical information that is up to date and a blank shot card so that you may fill it out in your own handwriting. Your new kitten will be delivered to you sturdy and healthy with clear eyes, healthy coat, and a playful sweet nature. As stated in the Purchasing Contract/Health Guaranty, you have three business days to have your kitten vet checked for any illnesses or injuries. After that you are responsible to maintain your pet in a healthy manner by providing nutritious foods, a safe environment, regular treatment for parasites, and regular grooming. You are responsible to provide your pet with normal vet care and medications for any treatable medical issues. Your kitten is guaranteed against any congenital/hereditary defects that are diagnosed within the first year. For more information on this, please keep a copy of the Purchasing/Health Contract for your records. We breed Persians and Napoleons, which sometimes carry a kidney disease (PKD). This disease is identified through DNA testing and is not infectious, but genetic. All of our breeders are tested prior to breeding. Our cattery is 100% PKD free, which means that your kitten comes to you free of this disease. All of our new cats (all breeds) are segregated for a minimum of two weeks prior to being allowed near any other cats. During the segregation period, our cats are tested for feline leukemia (FeLV) and feline AIDS (FIV). Our cattery is 100% FeLV and FIV free, which means that when you receive your kitten it is free of both of these diseases. Feeding and Litter Box: Your kitten will be eating dry kitten food and drinking water from saucers and using the litter box. Always keep fresh water available to your kitten. We’ve experimented with numerous foods and we like Science Diet Kitten and/or Adult Formula and Purina Naturals. We have found that all of our cats like Friskie’s Canned Foods (all varieties) and feed it a minimum of every second or third day. Cats need the hydration provided in wet foods to avoid development of urinary tract problems. We also mix in Taste of the Wild Dry Cat Food occasionally with the regular dry food and find that all of our kittens and cats seem to enjoy it. Cats prefer saucers to bowls. They are very fastidious groomers and do not like getting their faces and whiskers wet with water and dirty with food. Therefore, we recommend that you feed your kittens/cats from shallow feeders/waterers. Cats have a very sensitive sense of smell and will turn up their noses at stale food and/or water or dirty saucers. It is absolutely normal for your new kitten to be skittish when meeting new people and moving into a new place. You can expect a very short-term period (12 to 24 hours) of your kitten being off their feed and some accidents outside of the litter box for a few days. Do not hesitate to call if your kitten refuses to eat by the next day after bringing it home. Perhaps we can give you some hints to stimulate the appetite, such as supplementing with KMR and Nutra-Cal. Kittens can become dehydrated very quickly and become extremely ill. There are numerous ways to avoid that. We recommend small litter boxes for new kittens and then graduating them to a regular size litter box, unless they are already using a regular litter box by the time you receive them. Keeping the litter box on a plastic tablecloth will protect your floors against accidents, which normally occur near the litter box. Our cats use open litter boxes in the cattery and all of our cats
Page 3 spend time in our home for socialization. When they are very young we do not train them to use enclosed litter boxes, but do train kittens we keep for our breeders and kittens that spend a lot of time in the house with us to use them. To train them we remove the top and let them get used to the new box. Then we replace the top without the flap over the door and place them inside of the box several times a day and move their back legs in a paddling motion to simulate burying their waste, which is a normal behavior for them. Once they are used to going into the enclosed box we then add the flap and put them through the flap several times a day and then coax them back out of it again until they get the hang of it. We always keep litter boxes and food and water saucers on plastic tablecloths or pet place mats to protect floors. Even the most well trained pets have accidents and spills. Again, the cat’s sensitive sense of smell will cause them to avoid their litter box if it is not kept clean. Boxes should be scooped a minimum of once a day and preferably twice a day. They should be dumped, scrubbed, disinfected a minimum of once a week. We also recommend that you avoid “clumpable” litters for young/tiny kittens up to 12 weeks old. Litters that clump and are scented have chemicals in them that can be dangerous to your kitten. Clay or pine pellet litters are safest for tiny kittens. Most people never have a problem with litters, but we rarely use clumpable or scented litter for our kittens and do not recommend them. After about 12 weeks most any litter is safe. We like Arm & Hammer for our cats that are sensitive to pine, but try new litters all the time. Cats are constantly grooming themselves, which means that they are going to get flecks of litter into their mouths. Imagine swallowing perfume every day. At the very least it would give you a sick stomach. Now add to that something that swells and clumps when it gets wet sticking to the lining of your esophagus, stomach, and intestines. Continue to swallow the same material daily and blockages may occur causing extreme illness, injury, and perhaps even death to your tiny kitten. We use all natural recycled pine pellets that are flushable and biodegradable. They naturally reduce litter odor, do not clog your pipes, and do not fill local landfills with tons of non-biodegradable refuse. As your kitten matures, you may wish to change to a “scoopable” litter for ease in cleaning. Internal/External Parasites: Your new kitten will be free of internal and external parasites to the best of our knowledge and ability. All of our kittens are on a regular maintenance schedule to ensure they are protected against fleas, mites, lice, worms, parasites, etc. Our kittens are wormed at 2 weeks old and every 2 weeks thereafter until 8 weeks of age. After that we recommend kittens be wormed quarterly to ensure their health. Any kitten showing symptoms of internal parasites (loose or bloody stool, white flecks resembling rice grains) are taken to the vet and checked. Many kittens have a protozoan parasitic infection called coccidiosis that is easily treated and cured with a course of medication. It is thought that all cats will be infected with this protozoan at some point during their life. White flecks in the stool indicate tapeworm infection, which is easily treated and cured with a course of medication. Some kittens develop ringworm, which is a fungal infection of the skin. Even the cleanest catteries run into these problems for numerous reasons. I have only run into difficulties with ringworm if I have a cat that insists on putting her kittens into the litter box every time I turn my back. It is an expensive and time
Page 4 consuming medical condition to cure, so we do our best to prevent it by cleaning litter boxes daily and disinfecting them weekly or more often as needed. We also try to make our nests so comfortable the mother doesn’t feel it necessary to move her kittens. Our kittens are examined daily for any signs of illness or injury for early detection and cure. Our kittens are groomed regularly starting as soon as they venture away from their mothers. We brush them as needed. Starting at 8 to 10 weeks old we begin to bathe them monthly, clean their ears (at least monthly) and eyes as needed, and we powder them and their living area with Diatomaceous Earth for pest control (fleas, ticks, mites, lice, etc.). We do not use spot flea and tick treatments until 12 to 16 weeks old depending on the size of the kitten and we do not recommend it. Kittens are very susceptible to poisoning and using flea/tick treatments on them too young can be very dangerous. After 16 weeks of age, using spot treatments should be perfectly safe. We use Frontline Plus. Cats (kittens in particular) are poisoned very easily. Bug spray, pain medications, many cleansers, etc. are poisonous to cats. Do your research prior to spraying your home for pests to make sure the poison is safe for your kitten or make sure you remove the kitten from the home while it is being treated for pests. The same goes for cleaning supplies. Bleach and extremely hot water are the best cleansers to use around cats. Make sure you allow the area to dry completely prior to returning the kitten to the area being cleaned. Grooming: Groom your pet regularly for both of your sakes! Your kitten is groomed regularly prior to you taking possession. The earlier you begin and the more often you groom your cat, the easier it becomes for both of you. Daily brushing can become a wonderful and enjoyable bonding time for both you and your pet. We have found the Furminator to be a wonderful tool. You can find it at any pet store. They make them for dogs and cats, but actually make one specifically for cats. That is the one we recommend. Keeping your kitten brushed often using a tool such as the Furminator (at least weekly) will keep their coat healthy and shiny and really cut down on any shedding and dander. Longhaired cats, such as Persians with “cotton candy” type hair require daily brushing to avoid matting and serious skin irritations. Proper nutrition is key to a healthy coat, deterring shedding, and clear skin. There are tons of shampoos out there safe for your kitten that promise amazing things. We stick with what works for us. Melasab is a medicated shampoo that you can find at pet stores or in most vet offices. It works wonders for itchy skin resulting from numerous causes. I mix it with Mane & Tail Shampoo from WalMart because of the sleek shininess it gives their coats and because it significantly reduces shedding. I add a drop or two of Dawn dishwashing liquid, which instantly kills fleas. I only bathe my cats when they need it (mostly once a month) and then make sure to blow them dry so they do not catch cold. Some enjoy the entire process and others leave me looking as if I just lost a knife fight! I have learned that all of my cats enjoy the scrubbing. It is the initial wetting them down and rinsing them that causes the problem. To make the process less traumatic on both of us; those cats that hate their baths get soaked down in the sink then moved to the countertop on top of a towel to be scrubbed. Then back into the sink for rinsing and back to the counter top and a dry towel for drying and brushing. Removing them from the sink (I have a large utility sink.) for scrubbing gives them a chance to calm down and enjoy at least a part of their bath. I also shave my Persians about twice a year. This cuts down on their shedding,
Page 5 reduces the chances of them getting skin irritations, and significantly reduces matting. Regular grooming is a time consuming, but essential part of your relationship with your kitten. It also keeps their skin healthy and deters any parasites, fleas, mites, etc. Finally, a well-groomed kitten reduces the risk of allergies to the new owners. Please note that all cats groom themselves constantly. They will develop hairballs, which if not passed through their digestive system, or more commonly “coughed” up, can make them ill. We treat our cats monthly with hairball remedy paste that can be purchased from any pet store or WalMart. Longhaired cats are especially prone to getting hairballs and can become quite ill if they are unable to pass it or cough it up. Physical Appearance: We do our best to give you an accurate description of the color, size, and coat you can expect in your kitten as it grows, but we cannot guaranty this. We provide close up photos to you on a regular basis so that you can see how your kitten is developing first hand until you take possession. Training: Cats are very smart and learn quickly and can be trained and taught tricks if you have the patience. The difference is that they are so independent they only do what they want, when they want. Most cats hate citrus smells and you can discourage them from climbing on your countertops and tables by cleaning with citrus scented cleaners and dusting products. You can also train your kitten to stay off of your countertops, table, furnishings, etc. by tapping their nose (gently) with one finger and telling them "No!" in a stern voice. They learn pretty quick and they hate having their nose tapped. They will test you from time to time, so stay consistent and you will enjoy your pet more and they will be happier because they know their limits. Toys: Bored kittens can be a real trial to their owners. They can be destructive and can cause themselves harm while looking for things to do. Provide your kitten with toys to occupy their time. We recommend an assortment of toys, a good scratching post, hiding places, climbing toys, and a window seat in front of a window with blinds or curtains open or a plasma screen with moving objects for them to play with. We recommend you shop for kitten toys at WalMart, K-Mart, or catalogs such as Collections, Etc. Cats tend to go through toys pretty quickly and more expensive does not mean more fun. WalMart carries a wonderful assortment of toys and scratching posts that are inexpensive. I particularly like the vinyl playpen type toys that have tunnels, hammocks, and hideyholes. They run between $10 and $25, are easy to assemble and last a good long time and can be tossed and replaced. A good scratching post can save furniture if you are not the type of person good at saying, “No”. A window shelf can provide hours and hours of entertainment to an inside cat. They love to look out the window. I found a small plasma screen with ocean sounds and fish swimming across the screen at K-Mart for $15 that has provided my kittens with non-stop entertainment. There are catalogs out there that sell everything from clothes to kitchen gadgets to pet supplies at very reasonable prices. My cats really love brainteasers, such as boxes with holes in them and toys inside the box that they can move and bat around with their paws, but not get them out of the box. These are great if you hate tripping over cat toys at night, also! The best way to keep your kitten from boredom is to have two kittens or a dog. Cats are sociable animals and love to play with each other. Getting two kittens or a kitten and a puppy is a wonderful way to ensure
Page 6 they have a lifetime of companionship while you are away from home. Many house plants are poisonous to cats. Please do your research to protect your kitten. A plant looks very much like a toy to your kitten and could result in disaster. Spraying: All cats can “spray” including females. It is unusual, but it does happen. The cat most likely to spray is an unaltered male coming into sexual maturity. Animals mark their territory. And once they become sexually mature they become very protective of their territory. We recommend all pets be altered at or before six months of age. This is the best way to try to avoid problems with spraying and shows that you are a responsible pet owner. Declawing: This is extremely controversial among cat lovers and vets. Some believe it to be cruelty. Some believe it to be unhealthy to the cat’s temperament and emotionally damaging. Some believe it to be dangerous because it takes away the cat’s ability to defend itself against predators. Some vets refuse to declaw. Some refuse to declaw all four paws and will declaw front paws only. Some have no problem with it at all. Many breeders have contract clauses prohibiting declawing. Our position on declawing is that it is a personal decision between you and your vet. We would rather see a cat declawed than have the owner find they cannot keep it otherwise and place it in a shelter. None of our cats are declawed. We have been very lucky in that we have been able to train our cats to use their scratching posts rather than our furniture, walls, and doors to scratch on (well most of the time, anyway). We use the same training methods as mentioned above. Citrus scented sprays, such as Febreeze on furnishings they seem to be intent upon scratching and the nose tap and a firm “No!” We then take them to the scratching post and stand them up to it and rub their paws on it in a scratching motion to make sure they understand what we want. We have had cats declawed years ago before learning to train them. Never did we notice any change in temperament or see any sign of emotional trauma. We do recommend, however, that you not declaw any indoor/outdoor cat because they are not able to defend themselves against predators they may encounter outside. We do recommend that all of our kittens remain indoor cats for safety reasons. If you and your vet determine that declawing your cat is the right decision for you, we do recommend that you have it done at the same time you have your kitten altered. One surgery is always less stressful than two. One surgery is always less risky to your kitten than two. One surgery is always less expensive than two. We recommend that you ensure your vet is highly qualified and experienced prior to allowing them to perform any surgery on your kitten, especially declawing. It requires a very special knowledge of removing the claw without damaging nerves or leaving material behind that can cause irritation and/or pain to your kitten even after healing. Cat Information Resources: Always feel free to contact us with any questions you may have regarding your kitten. Our website provides several links to informative sites, also. If we cannot answer your question we will be happy to refer you to another source, such as books, Internet sources, cat registry associations, and your vet. Bookstores carry a wonderful variety of Cat Books and you can peruse them at your leisure to see which one suits your needs. You can also Google questions regarding your kitten and find hundreds of sites that can be very helpful. The main and safest source of information is your vet.
Page 7 They do not know everything, but the right vet will be happy to research information for you to help you maintain your pet in a healthy happy manner. We are constantly updating this information, so please feel free to check back any time. And we also welcome information from our clients, and any others with suggestions and recommendations. Good luck with your new kitten and thank you for doing business with ResQMe Farms Cattery.