Over 200 Years Without Death Penalty - The Florentine

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					Anno 1 numero 21 - Firenze                                                                                                                               Thursday 1 December 2005

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        Holiday                                                             Record                                Foraging                           Brancacci
      Shoppers                                                            Numbers                              for Fashion                        Chapel Junkie
    Benefit from                                                         Run Firenze                                  Finds                        By Ashton Nichols
      Christmas                                                           Marathon                        By Justina Blakeney
                                          see pg. 4                                        see pg. 7                               see pg. 14                               see pg. 20

Over 200 Years Without Death Penalty                                                                                                              FLORENCE’S
                                                                                                                                                  PATRIMONY STILL
Festa Della Toscana dedicated to global abolition                                                                                                 NEGLECTED
of death penalty worldwide                                                                                  Jovanotti, Irene Grandi, Piero Pelù   Art damaged by 1966 flood
                                                                                                                                                  still awaits restoration

                                                                                                                                                  A    n immense collection of hun-
                                                                                                                                                       dreds of frescoes, paintings,
                                                                                                                                                  statues, and antique furniture
                                                                                                                                                  damaged in a flood that occurred
                                                                                                                                                  nearly 40 years ago is still await-
                                                                                                                                                  ing restoration. The artwork has
   November 30 marked the official                               to celebrate its past and continued      nos Aires, and the Moneda Palace in      remained untouched since experts
day of celebration of the Tuscany                               progress in promoting human rights,      Santiago are just a few of the many      and volunteers saved it from com-
Region. The date was not picked at                              and over the years these festivities     monuments that were illuminated          plete ruin in the muddy waters of
random but chosen to celebrate a                                have spread to a global level.           on November 30, 2005.                    the 1966 flood in Florence. Even
significant event that occurred over                                In 2002, the Tuscany region,             Back in Tuscany, the Festa della      though thousands of works were
two hundred years ago on Novem-                                 together with the Rome-based Sant’       Toscana actually began several days      restored, funding has not been
ber 30, 1786. On this day, Grand                                Egidio community, created the ini-       before November 30, with numer-          sufficient to get to all of the dam-
Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo                                 tiative “Cities of Light,” which now     ous events and initiatives dedicated     aged pieces. Most of the remain-
officially banished corporal punish-                             involves over 300 cities around the      to the region’s secondary theme          ing artworks date from the 16th to
ment from the region’s legal code. It                           world. Participating cities illuminate   this year: Europe. Under the slo-        the 18th centuries, and restorers
was the first time in modern history                             their most important monuments           gan “Europa, Europae”, the region        at offices that manage the city’s
that a government within a Euro-                                on November 30 as a sign of sup-         aimed to find solutions for a Europe      artistic and historical heritage
pean nation officially outlawed the                              port for the international campaign      that is still not completely united.     are working to at least maintain
death penalty.                                                  to end the death penalty. The Coli-         Likely considered the highlight       accurate archives and data on
   In 2000, the region made Novem-                              seum in Rome, Plaza Santa Aba in         of the festivities this year, a free     the still-damaged work, as well as
ber 30 an official day to honour and                             Madrid, the Central Obelisk in Bue-      concert was held at the Mandela          to locate funding to continue the
                                                                                                                                                  task of restoration.
                                                                                                                                      see pg. 3

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    Carbon dioxide emissions: 217 - 322 g/Km.


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                                                                                                               News                                                                                   3                                                                                                                                                          Thursday 1 December 2005


                                                                                                                                                                Florence NEWS                                                                                                          continued from pg. 1
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                                  Over 200 Years Without                                                                          Table of CONTENTS
                Azimuth s.r.l.
                                                                 Death Penalty                                                                                      1 FLORENCE NEWS
                                                                                                                                                                      Over 200 Years Without
                                                                                                                                                                      Death Penalty
   direzione: via dei Fossi 14c. 59100 Prato                     Forum on November 29, uniting some of the top Tuscan musicians, includ-                                 Florence’s
             direttore responsabile                              ing Piero Pelù, Irene Grandi, and Jovanotti for an animated evening of music                            Patrimony Still Neglected
                                                                 and unity against the death penalty. The concert was officially dedicated to
                                                                                                                                                                     3 Santa Croce in Purgatory
             Fabiana Ceccarelli
                                                                 Iranian journalist Akbar Ganji, who has been persecuted and tortured for
             managing editors                                    his political beliefs. Ganji has been in prison since 2001.
        Nita Tucker, Linda Falcone                                  The pending execution of U.S. death row inmate, ex-gang member turned
          contributing editors
   Marco Badiani, Elia Della Chiesa,
                                                                 Nobel Peace Prize nominee, Stanley “Tookie” Williams, was also a central
                                                                 topic throughout these events, and efforts were made to add pressure to the
                                                                 campaign requesting California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger to give
                                                                                                                                                                     4 Holiday Shoppers‘Fare’ t
                                                                                                                                                                       from Christmas

  Giovanni Giusti, Antonio Lo Iacono,                            Williams clemency. Williams’ execution date is set for December 13.                                     Pollution: Florence’s
  Carla Rossi, Tova Piha, Tony Tucker                                                                                                                                    Modern-day Goliath
          Vanessa Chanson

            graphics and layout
                                                                  SANTA CROCE IN PURGATORY
                                                                                                                                                                     5 Stop Bush: Abroad for
                                                                                                                                                                                   The Strategy

         Leo Cardini - Cathy Gale                                                                                                                                        Leonardo Conquers
                                          Lack of funds causes restoration project to                                                            New Zealand
                                                                  come to a standstill
        La Marina, Calenzano (Fi)                                                                                                                                    6 NATIONAL NEWS
                                                                                                                                                                       Nestlé Apology
                                                                                                                                                                       Not Accepted
                 iscrizione al ROC
     (reg. degli operatori di comunicazione)
                                                                   F   lorence’s famous sky-
                                                                       line has had a small
                                                                   blemish for a few years
                                                                                                                                                                         Scheme to Save
            n. 9927 reg. trib. di Prato                            now: the bell tower at the
                                                                                                                                                                         Sinking Venice
             trasmessa il 19/04/05                                 Church of Santa Croce
                                                                                                                                                                         SPORT NEWS
                                                                   has been in scaffolding
                                                                   since 2003. And it looks                                                                          7 FiorentinaClassifiHolds Third
                                                                                                                                                                       Place in
                                                                   as if it may remain that
                                                                   way for a while to come                                                                               5 Minutes to Say
                                                                   due to a lack of funding                                                                              “No To Racism”
                                                                   needed to continue res-
   ���������                                                       toration works.
                                                                      The alarm was raised                                                                           9 TOP PICKS OF EVENTS
                                                                   by the superintendents of Florence’s              state of the tower, as well as the                Events Highlights
                                                                   architectural and landscape heritage,             effects of past restoration work that
                                                                                                                     may not have been suitable for the
                                                                                                                                                                   14 STYLE & FASHION Finds
                                                                   who claim that regardless of repeated
                                                                   requests for funding in order to finish            structure, fears are that irreparable
                                                                                                                     damage could occur if work is not
                                                                                                                                                                      Foraging for Fashion
                                                                   the restoration project, the ministry
                                                                   has denied further support.                       soon resumed.
                                                                      The 80-metre high campanile has
                                                                   been secured with scaffolding, but
                                                                                                                        The Church of Santa Croce is
                                                                                                                     now looking for possible alternative          15 UP CLOSEwith:
                                                                                                                                                                                 & PERSONAL
                                                                                                                                                                      Jacopo Mazzei
                                                                   with very limited data on the actual              funding sources.

                                                                                                                                                                   16 CULTUREVOICES:
                                                                                                                                                                              & CUSTOMS
                                                                                                                                                                      A Window on Language
                                                                                                                                                                         and Customs in Italy

                                                                                                                                                                   17 MarriedLunch Ambush The
                                                                                                                                                                              to the Italian:

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                                                                                                                       ��������������������������                  18 TRAVEL & LEISURE
                                                                                                                                                                      An Insider’s Tuscany
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                                                                      ���������������                                                                              19 THE ARTS Expatriates of
   ������                                                                                                                                                                Part VI: Bernard Berenson

                                                                                                                                                                   20    Brancacci Chapel Junkie

         ��������                                                                                                                                                  21 FOOD & WINE World:
                                                                                                                                                                      Flavours of the
      �������������                                                                                                                                                   Florentine Cuisine

           �������������������������                               ������������������������������������������
                                                                                                                                                                   22 BehindisEvery Great Meal,
                                                                                                                                                                      There a Woman
              �����������                                          ����������������������������������������������������                 ���������������������
                                                                                                                                                                   23 USEFUL NUMBERS
                                                                                                                                                                      CLASSIFIED ADS
                                                                   ��������������������������������������������������������             ������������������
4                                                                             News
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                       

    Florence NEWS
Holiday Shoppers Benefit                                                           POLLUTION: FLORENCE’S
                                                                                  MODERN-DAY GOLIATH
from Christmas ‘Fare’                                                             National environmental survey gives city dismal ranking
Free bus service provided on weekends and
                                                                                                he first chilling Tramon-
holidays in December                                                                            tana winds of winter that
                                                                                                swept through Florence
                                                                                     recently brought not only a sprin-
                                                                                     kling of snow to the city but also
                                                                                     some of the cleanest and clearest
                                                                                     skies since last spring. Breathtak-
                                                                                     ing views of the Duomo framed by
                                                                                     a crystalline blue sky awaited the
                                                                                     few tourists who braved the cold at
                                                                                     Piazzale Michelangelo.
                                                                                         These few clear days couldn’t
                                                                                     help but make more evident the
                                                                                     grey-brown, smog-filled sky that
                                                                                     usually hovers over Florence. That
                                                                                     the city has a pollution problem is
                                                                                     evident, but it still came as a sur-
                                                                                     prise that Florence, ranked 61st,so
                                                                                     low compared to other Italian cit-
                                                                                     ies in a recent survey conducted in
                                                                                     collaboration with national environ-

       he City of Florence, together     21.00, and all day (from 10.00 to           mental protection agency Legam-
       with public bus company           21.00) on Sundays and holidays              biente and economic newspaper Il ger be provided. Instead, it will be pri-
       ATAF, will once again renew       (December 8, 11, 18, 24, and 31).           Sole 24 Ore.                                 vatised, as have been other utilities in
the free bus service initiative “Auto-   Drivers are advised to leave their              The survey, entitled “Eco- the city (Florence’s water service with
natale” to cut back on Christmas-        cars in peripheral parking garages          sistema Urbano”, took into account Publiacqua, for example).
time traffic and chaos, as well as to     that will be equipped traffic limita-        26 different indicators (including                According to Legambiente, the
facilitate Christmas shopping in the     tion hours with a free shuttle bus          traffic and pollution levels, public underlying reason Florence scored so
historical centre.                       service to the centre. The bus service      transportation, green areas and low on the classification list is that the
   According to the initiative, a new    will be available from the garages          recycling) from the 103 province city has not instated any fundamental
ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone) sched-         at the Parterre, Piazza Beccaria,           capitals in Italy to create the 2004 traffic reduction measures.
ule will go into effect for the month    Porta Romana, and Piazza Vittorio           classification, and the                                          City officials, on the
of December, further restricting         Veneto. These garages will also be          resulting data was                                          other hand, are quick to
vehicular traffic from entering the       charging a reduced rate of 1 euro           officially released in                                       note that the classifica-
historical centre on Friday and          per hour when the shuttle service is                                       “That the city has a
                                                                                     November.                                                   tion is actually evidence
Saturday afternoons from 15.00 to        running.                                        According to the            pollution problem is of success, since Flor-
                                                                                     survey, Florence’s pol-         evident, but it still       ence has actually risen
                                                                                     lution levels are dismal.                                   by 10 points from the
    December Bus Service                                                             The city registered             came as a surprise          previous year’s survey, in
                                                                                     some of the highest             that Florence,              which it ranked 71st.
    Route 101: Parterre (Via Mafalda di Savoia), Piazza Indipendenza                 levels of nitrogen diox-                                        Although the rise
    (between Via Ridolfi and Via Nazionale), Via Nazionale (at Via                    ide (NO2), which is a           ranked 61st,                in ranking is a positive
    dell’Ariento), Largo Alinari (corner Piazza Stazione), Via Panzani               gaseous         substance       compared to other           move, it was due to an
                                                                                     resulting largely from                                      increased number of pub-
    (at Piazza dell’Unità), Via Martelli (corner Via dei Biffi), Piazza San                                           Italian cities...”
                                                                                     automobile emissions,                                       lic parks and green areas,
    Marco (by ATAF booth), Piazza della Libertà (after Viale Matteotti)              and of particulate mat-                                     as well as improved recy-
    and return to Parterre.                                                          ter (PM10), which is a                                      cling methods. These
                                                                                     microscopic substance in the air improvements, however, do not
    Route 102: Viale Amendola (before Piazza Beccaria), Viale Gio-                   that derives from traffic emissions detract from the pollution dilemma,
    vine Italia (after Via dell’Agnolo), Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia                as well as any type of burning.              which remains a Goliath that Florence
    (after Piazza Piave), Corso Tintori (before Via dei Benci), Via Verdi                If traffic is the cause for much of has yet to overcome.
    (after Piazza Santa Croce), Via Ghibellina (corner Via dei Macci and             the pollution in Florence, then the               Overall, Florence’s ranking placed
    after Via delle Casine), Viale Amendola (three stops: one before Via             fact that the city also scored terri- it behind almost all other medium-
    Fra’ Angelico, another before Via Arnolfo, and the last at the Piazza            bly with regards to public transpor- sized cities, including Bologna (clos-
                                                                                     tation is even more disconcerting. est in size to Florence and ranking
    Beccaria parking garage).
                                                                                     In fact, a 4- percent decrease in 29th), and just barely ahead of the
                                                                                     public transortation use was reg- country’s largest cities: Rome (68th),
    Route 103: Piazza della Calza (after Porta Romana), Piazza                       istered in 2004. The survey aside, Turin (73rd), Naples (75th), Milan (82nd),
    San Felice (at Via Mazzetta), Piazza Frescobaldi (after Borgo San                recent news of a break in nego- and Palermo (86th).
    Iacopo), Via Tornabuoni (after Lungarno Acciaiuoli), Piazza Anti-                tiations between union representa-                Other cities in Tuscany also
    nori , Via Roma (after Via dei Pecori), Via Strozzi (after Via Vecchi-           tives for employees of the local bus received worryingly low classifications,
    etti), Via della Vigna Nuova (after Via dei Federighi), Piazza Sauro             company ATAF and the company’s with Grosseto at 65th, and Lucca at a
    (after Lungarno Soderini), Via dei Serragli (after Via Santa Monaca)             leaders, who proposed layoffs in dismal 71st.
    and return to Piazza della Calza.                                                order to cut a deficit of over nine                Southern Italy still claims the major-
                                                                                     million euros, signifies an even ity of the most polluted cities, with the
                                                                                     more troubled period ahead for lowest ranking of all going to the city
    Route 104: Piazza Vittorio Veneto (in front of Jolly Hotel), Via                 what seems to be an already suf- of Vibo Valentia in the Calabria region.
    Curtatone (before Lungarno Vespucci), Borgo Ognissanti (before Via               fering public transportation system. Meanwhile, the vast majority of the top
    Maso Finiguerra), Via Santa Lucia (after Borgo Ognissanti), Via degli            In fact, fears are that the company scoring cities are located in the north-
    Orti Oricellari (before Via della Scala), Via della Scala (after Via             may soon claim bankruptcy and ern areas of the country. The cleanest
    Canacci), Piazza Santa Maria Novella (by the loggiati), Via Palaz-               that the public service will no lon- city in Italy? Mantua.
    zuolo (before Via dell’Albero) and return to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
                                                                                           News                                                                       5                                                                                                                            Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                                              Florence NEWS
       News in BRIEF                                   Stop Bush: The Strategy for
                                                       Democrats Abroad
   Tuscan Wines Make Spectator’s
   Top Ten List
   Just two Italian wines, both from the Tuscan
   region, made it on to Wine Spectator’s Top
   Ten list for 2005. Oreno 2003, Setteponti
   ( fifth place) and Brunello di Montalcino            Director Emeritus Fina emphasises importance of 2006 elections
   Poggio all’Oro Riserva 1999, Castello Banfi

   (eighth place) were the two chosen wines.               n an elegant, downtown                                                           Fina emphasised the impor-
   The Wine Spectator list is considered one               apartment, home of one                                                        tance of these upcoming elec-
   of the most important lists on which a wine
   can be included, and Tuscan winemakers
                                                           of the main organisers                                                        tions for the Democratic Party,
   were pleased with such recognition.                 of the Florence chapter of                                                        which could potentially regain
                                                       Democrats Abroad (DA-F),                                                          partial control of a currently
   Caffè Rivoire Gets New                              members warmly received                                                           entirely Republican majority
   Lease on Life                                       a special guest on Novem-                                                         government. In fact, winning
   Once again, a historical Florentine shop            ber 25 for an evening to                                                          the 2006 elections is the only
   was almost forced to close its doors be-            begin discussing strategies                                                       way to regain any oppos-
   cause of skyrocketing rent in the centre.           to defeat the Republicans in                                                      ing authority while President
   Located in Piazza Signoria, Caffè Rivoire,
   considered one of the best cafes in Flor-
                                                       the 2006 U.S. governmental,                                                       Bush is still in office.
   ence, was opened, and has been run for              House, and Senate elections.                                                         DA-F has long existed but
   over 150 years, by the Bardelli family. The         There are few people who are Thomas Fina                                          just recently became an offi-
   family was due for a rental contract renewal        better equipped to talk about                                                     cial chapter of the Democrats
   recently, but the owners, an insurance              organising voters abroad, especially organisation Democrats Abroad         Abroad in Italy organisation, after
   company, requested an increase that the             in Italy, than the evening’s guest of for many years. Although he is now   a concerted effort by various mem-
   establishment would not have been able to
   pay. It took the intervention of city officials to
                                                       honour, Thomas Fina. Now Execu- retired, Mr. Fina still dedicates large    bers to get participants to officially
   mediate a new contract that eventually sat-         tive Director Emeritus of Demo- amounts of his time to helping with        register on the website, thus proving
   isfied both parties. The managers of Rivoire         crats Abroad, the overseas arm of election processes both abroad and       the minimum membership for chap-
   now have a new rental agreement that will           the Democratic Party, Mr. Fina in the U.S., and he was delighted to        ter recognition. There are currently
   last for 12 years, and until then, one of the       has long been involved in expatri- have the opportunity to meet with       about 150 Florence members.
   city’s best places to get a cappuccino will         ate Democratic activities, particu- other American expatriates inter-
   still be around.
                                                       larly in Italy. Not only is Mr. Fina ested and involved in Washington      For more information on Democrats
   Boccaccio’s House For Sale
                                                       a lifelong aficionado of Italy, he politics. While in Italy, he met with    Abroad activities in Italy go to:
   The home of “The Decameron” author,                 also served as Consul General in DA members in both Milan and    
   Giovanni Boccaccio, may soon be up for              Milan for six years. He later moved Florence to help initiate activities
   sale according to local officials. The house,        on to direct the Washington-based for the 2006 elections.
   which is located in the Tuscan hill town of
   Certaldo and is today a museum visited by
   over 15,000 people each year, will most
   probably be acquired by the municipality
   itself, if it manages to raise the necessary                           Leonardo
   funds. City officials claim that 200,000
   euros have already been set aside for the                              Conquers
   acquisition of what could be considered
   the most important historical monument
   located in Certaldo.

   Orsanmichele Re-opens After 6 Years
   The church of Orsanmichele recently re-

   opened its doors to the public after six
                                                             he Da Vinci Machines’ exhi-
   year of restoration works. Built in 1337, it
   is a prime example of Florentine gothic ar-               bition in Auckland is a suc-
   chitecture. It houses a gothic tabernacle of        cess Fifty models of Leonardo Da
   glass and marble by Orcagna that frames a           Vinci’s machines have been per-
   Madonna by Bernardo Daddi.                          fectly reconstructed by Florentine
                                                       artisans for the exhibition ‘The Da
   Tuscany’s Entrepreneurs Going Strong                Vinci Machines’ that opened on
   The number of new registrations with Cham-
                                                       November 18 in Auckland, New
   ber of Commerce increases. It appears that
   the tough economic situation in Italy these         Zealand. The show has registered an
   days has not stopped new entrepreneurs              exceptional response from the public
   in Tuscany. According to the Chamber of             and seems to have turned into one
   Commerce, 5,933 new enrolments were                 of the city’s central cultural events.
   made in the period between July and Sep-            The exhibition is comprised of fifty
   tember, equalling a growth of 1.3 percent.
                                                       models and is organised around four
   Even the region’s textile industry, which
   has been hard hit in recent years, seems
                                                       categories: mechanical, hydraulic,
   to be on the rebound. Strongest growth              military, and flying machines. All
   continues to be registered by the building          of the models are fully functioning,
   trade with an increase of 3.5 percent. Un-          and some are interactive. The mod-
   fortunately, however, sectors like agriculture      els themselves were created by the
   have not been able to turn around their neg-        Florentine bottega Teknoart, run by
   ative growth and a decrease of 0.7 percent
   was registered in the last quarter.
                                                       the Niccolai family, whose mem-
                                                       bers have spent the last half-cen-
   Terrorist Attack Drill at Palazzo Pitti             tury studying the mechanics of the
   As ordered by the Internal Ministry, on Mon-        Renaissance genius’s famous codes.
   day, November 28, a terrorist attack drill was      Da Vinci’s notes and drawings were
   performed at Palazzo Pitti. The drill served        used and faithfully followed to rec-
   as an organisational measure in preparation         reate the machines, some of which,
   for possible real attacks. Similar drills have
   also been held in Rome and Naples.
                                                       coming from newly discovered cod
                                                       es, have never before been on display
                                                       for public viewing. The models were
                                                       also constructed strictly with materi-
                                                       als that would have been available in
                                                       the 15th century.
6                                                                                         News
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                           

 National NEWS
        News in BRIEF
    Gay Man Leaves Church
                                                  Nestlé Apology                                                                          SCHEME TO SAVE
                                                                                                                                          SINKING VENICE
                                                  Not Accepted
    in Protest
    A 35-year-old homosexual man from
    the Alto Adige region left the Catholic
                                                                                                                                          Dramatic new solution
    Church in protest of Cardinal Ruini’s                                                                                                 proposed for age-old dilemma
    declarations on assisted fertilisation,
    de facto unions, and gay marriages.           Italian Health Minister to continue
    The man requested that his name be
    removed from the register of baptisms         lawsuit over milk dispute           Francesco Storace
    because he felt the Church was dis-
    criminating against him.

                                                      talian    Health                                              In full-page adver-
    Over 5,000 “Invisible”                            Minister Fran-                                            tisements       placed
    Children in Italy                                 cesco Storace                                             in leading Italian
    During a meeting on November 20 at
                                                  stated on Friday,                                             newspapers, Nestlé
    the Istituto degli Innocenti in Florence                                                                                                talian experts recently proposed
    in celebration of Universal Children’s        November 25 that                                              said the recall of the
                                                  he would continue                                             potentially contam-         an innovative new solution to
    Day, the president of UNICEF-Italia
    announced that there are over 5,000           with his lawsuit                                              inated products in        Venice’s long-time problem with
    “invisible” children in Italy. They are im-   against Nestlé CEO                                            Italy, France, Spain,     invading seawater and the slow
    migrant children who, having arrived          Peter        Brabeck,                                         and Portugal was a        sinking of the island the city sits
    alone in this country, find themselves in
                                                  despite a formal let-                                         measure of precau-        on. Instead of trying to pump the
    detention centres without a name, with-                                                                                               sea out of the city, these experts
    out an understanding of the language,         ter of apology for                                            tion for consumers.
                                                  the dispute that was                                          The Swiss food cor-       want to pump it in.
    and without parents or relatives to care
    for them.                                     created over the                                              poration had also             The plan would involve pump-
                                                  seizure of contami-                                           accused Italy of          ing huge quantities of seawater
    Trevi Fountain Thieves Arrested               nated baby milk.                                              blowing the incident      into the ground below Venice. The
    Four employees from a company that
                                                  Brabeck’s       letter                                        out of proportion,        water would then make the sand
    was hired to clear the coins tossed                                                                                                   beneath the city expand, poten-
    into the Trevi Fountain in Rome were          included a complete                                           reiterating that the
                                                  apology for any                                               recall was a precau-      tially lifting it by 30 centimetres in
    slowly siphoning off the change from
    their proper charitable destinations.         damages that may                                              tionary move.             ten years.
    In total, the four managed to steal           have been caused                                                  Storace is suing          It has long been evident that the
    about 110,000 euros before they were          by his false state-                                           Brabeck for alleg-        watery city has been sinking under
    caught. It was the Catholic charity or-
                                                  ments over the past                                           ing that his mini-        the increasing sea levels and high
    ganisation that reported something                                                                                                    tides of the Adriatic.
    was wrong after noticing a steady             few days. Neverthe-                                           stry knew about
                                                  less, Minister Storace said he would        the problem as far back as July and             The Italian government is cur-
    decline in income from the fountain, al-
    though the number of tourists visiting it     press ahead with his lawsuit.               not in September, when he alerted           rently spending 4.5 billion euros
    had not decreased.                               On the preceding Tuesday, Italian        the European Union. In his let-             on a controversial project that
                                                  police said they seized 30 million litres   ter, Brabeck withdrew claims that           would create floodgates across
    Director Scorsese Honoured
                                                  of Nestlé baby milk after tests showed      Nestlé had agreed with EU and               the entrance of the lagoon in which
    at Bologna Film Festival
                                                  they contained traces of a chemical         Italy’s Health Ministry back in             the city is located to keep the sea
    Italian-American film director Martin                                                                                                  somewhat at bay.
    Scorsese received an honorary degree          compound, IsopropilThioXantone              July that the possibly tainted prod-
    at the Officinema Film Festival in Bo-         (ITX), used in the printing of the          ucts should be allowed to expire                Although many deem the latest
    logna. In a long speech after receiving       company’s logo and design on the            while Nestlé changed the produc-            idea to be mere science fiction,
    the degree, Scorsese paid homage to           milk cartons. Laboratory tests carried      tion process for future products.           Venice’s city officials have taken
    Italian film directors Roberto Rossel-
                                                  out by regional health authorities in       Brabeck apologised for his accusa-          interest and are seriously looking
    lini, Lucchino Visconti, Pier Paolo Pa-
                                                  the Marche region confirmed there            tions, writing that a lapse in memory       into the possibility of lifting the
    solini, Ermanno Olmi, and Francesco                                                                                                   island with water.
    Rosi, claiming that without their films        were traces of ITX in the milk in a         led him to date the contacts with the
    he doesn’t know where he would be             number of cartons, although they did        health ministry to July rather than
    as a filmmaker. Scorsese opened the
    independent film festival in Bologna
                                                  not show that the traces were toxic,
                                                  police said.
                                                                                                                                          OUT OF IRAQ BY 2006
    by presenting his latest film, the much
    acclaimed documentary “No Direction
                                                                                                                                          Plans for troop withdrawal to
    Home” on the life of musician Bob                                                                                                     begin in January
    Dylan.                                                                                                                                  n a recent meeting with his U.S.
    Know Your Pecorino
    For consumers to better distinguish the
    various types of Pecorino cheeses that
                                                    Italy Dismisses EU Warnings                                                             counterpart Donald Rumsfeld, Ita-
                                                                                                                                          ly’s Defence Minister Antonio Mar-
                                                                                                                                          tino stated that Italy would begin
    come from different regions throughout          European Commission fears Italy will be over budget by 4.6%                           planning when and how it will with-
    Italy, an identifying label system will                                                                                               draw its troops from Iraq by January
    soon be put into effect. Roman pecori-                                                                                                2006. Prime Minister Berlusconi

    nos will have the figure of a gladiator                 conomy Minister Giulio Tremonti did not seem too worried                       reiterated this position during a visit
    imprinted on their packages, pecorino                  about a recent European Commission forecast putting Italy’s
    from Sardinia will have an image of                                                                                                   to Tunisia. Tentative plans are to
                                                           budget deficit in 2006 at well over the agreed target. Tremonti                 remove troops in groups of about
    the island itself, and pecorino from the
                                                    claimed instead that comments in the EC report were generally posi-                   300 by June 2006 and in accor-
    Grosseto area will have maritime pines
    in front of rolling hills.                      tive and that, despite warnings about certain aspects of the 2006 bud-                dance with the Iraqi government.
                                                    get, the overall framework of the budget bill was deemed solid.                       Italy has sent about 2,900 troops
    Singer Bublé Tours Italy as                        Italy is one of five EU countries expected by the EC to go over the 3               since the Iraq war began in 2003
    New Citizen                                     percent limit for deficits in 2005, 2006, and 2007. The other countries                despite continued strong opposi-
    Canadian crooner Michael Bublé                  were France, Germany, Portugal, and Greece. Last July the EU called
    proudly displayed his new Italian pass-                                                                                               tion from Italians.
                                                    on Italy to bring its deficit back under the 3 percent ceiling by 2007. As                 The Defence Ministry also an-
    port at a press conference in Italy to
    kick off his European tour. The singer          a halfway point on the way to achieving this goal, a 2006 objective of                nounced that the U.S. military would
    was eligible for Italian citizenship            3.8 percent was set.                                                                  be withdrawing its submarines from
    through his grandfather, who comes                 Italy’s economy grew 0.3 percent in the third quarter, after a 0.7                 La Maddalena naval base off the
    from the village of Preganziol, about 40        percent rise in the second. The positive figures follow two quarters of                Sardinian coast. Politicians and
    kilometres from Padua, where the Ital-          negative growth. The EC put Italy’s economic growth this year at 0.2
    ian part of Bublé’s tour began. Bublé                                                                                                 residents of the island have long
                                                    percent, and predicted it rising to 1.5 percent in 2006 and 1.4 percent               been opposed to the base, which is
    moved on to perform in Turin, Naples,
    Ancona, and Rome. His last Italian              in 2007. These figures are below the average growth forecast for the 12                used as a servicing station for U.S.
    venue will be in Milan.                         euro-zone countries: 1.3 percent in 2005, 1.9 percent in 2006 and 2.1                 nuclear submarines. The Italian gov-
                                                    percent in 2007.                                                                      ernment originally approved of the
                                                       Foreign Affairs Minister Fini assured the EC that Italy would not                  base in 1972 without consulting the
                                                    spend more than what was established by the budget plan.                              Parliament in Rome.
                                                                                Sports                                                                                       7                                                                                                                            Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                                                 Sports NEWS
Fiorentina Ties, Holds Third                                                                      Montolivo                      SERIE A Results 28 / 11          round 13

                                                                                                                                 sat      Livorno       Chievo     0-0

Place in Classification                                                                                                           sat
                                                                                                                                                        Palermo 1-1

                                                                                                                                                        Sampdoria 2-0
Fans still exuberant over 1-1 tie with Roma                                                                                      sun

    t was a tough match, but once          Toni and Pazzini                         half, a second half comeback by              sun      Messina       Inter      1-2
    again Fiorentina proved it is                                                   Fiorentina’s star player, Toni, who
                                                                                                                                 sun      Parma         Udinese 1-2
    truly a top competitor this year                                                scored his 16th goal of the season,
after its 1-1 tie with Roma. A hard                                                 tied up the match.                           sun      Roma          Fiorentina 1-1
game played by both teams ended                                                         Though Fiorentina scored only            sun      Siena         Reggina 0-0
with two well-merited goals on both                                                 one point for the championship
sides.                                                                              classification, while next team in
   Roma’s Damiano Tommasi (a                                                        line, Inter, scored three points for its      SERIE A Standings
player who was almost kicked out                                                    victory against Messina, Fiorentina
of the Championship league due                                                      still had enough total points to hold        team       points      team         points
to prolonged injuries and a 2-year                                                  its hard fought third place position.
rut during which he didn’t score a                                                      After such a satisfactory game           Juventus       36      Palermo         18
single goal), scored in the first half                                               against Roma, coaches, players, and
                                                                                                                                 Milan          31      Empoli          17
and his joy couldn’t help but bring a                                               fans all agree that Fiorentina is ready
smile even to Fiorentina fans.                                                      both physically and mentally for its         Fiorentina     29      Siena           15
   And, even though Roma man-                                                       biggest match yet, against number            Inter          26      Ascoli          13
aged to hold its ground in the first                                                 one team Juve.                               Livorno        22      Reggina         13
                                                                                                                                 Chievo         21      Parma            9
                                                                                                                                 Sampdoria      20      Cagliari         8

5 Minutes to Say “No To Racism”
                                                                                                                                 Udinese        20      Messina          8
                                                                                     RECORD NUMBERS                              Lazio
Response to racist epithets by fans                                                  RUN FIRENZE
                                          and began to walk off the field with
                                          it. Teammates and coaches managed          MARATHON                                    This week       3-4 / 12 2005    round 14
                                          to convince Zoro to let the game
                                          continue, but his anger did not go
                                                                                     Kenyans dominate race
                                                                                                                                 date hrs        home team        opponent
                                          entirely ignored and empathy was
                                          expressed by even the highest levels                                                   sat    18.00    Chievo        Milan
                                          of the Italian Football Association.                                                   sat    20.30    Inter        Ascoli
                                              In response to this incident and                                                   sun    15.00    Fiorentina Juventus
                                          to continued problems with Italian
                                                                                                                                 sun    15.00    Lazio         Siena
                                          fans hurling racist epithets at play-

T  ensions came to a head dur-            ers of colour, the FIGC decided that                                                   sun    15.00    Palermo     Cagliari
   ing the Inter-Messina match on         all Coppa Italia matches played dur-                                                   sun    15.00    Reggina      Parma
November 28 when, after enduring
                                          ing the week starting from Novem-                   he runners of the 22nd annual      sun    15.00    Sampdoria Empoli
the racist chants yelled by fans for      ber 29 would be delayed 5 minutes                   Firenze Marathon were given        sun    15.00    Treviso    Messina
over an hour, Inter player Marco          while the players themselves walked            a lucky respite from the torrential
Zoro, of Ivory Coast origin, grabbed                                                                                             sun    15.00    Udinese     Livorno
                                          onto the field with banners stating             rains that caused the Arno River
the ball with his hands in mid play       “No To Racism”.                                                                        sun    20.30    Lecce         Roma
                                                                                         to swell at an alarming rate in
                                                                                         recent days. Though temperatures
                                                                                         were still chilly and the air damp,      Next week
Olympic Skater                            Olympic Flame Lit for                          the rains remained at bay as thou-
                                                                                                                                                10-11 / 12 2005   round 15

Donates Costumes                          Turin 2006 Olympics
                                                                                         sands of runners lined up for the
                                                                                         42 km race through the heart of
                                                                                                                                 date hrs        home team        opponent

for Charity                               Torch to arrive in Italy on                    Florence.
                                                                                             A record number of enrolments
                                                                                                                                 sat    18.00    Siena         Empoli
Italy’s Carolina Kostner offers           December 6                                                                             sat    20.30    Fiorentina    Treviso
                                                                                         were registered for this year’s
designer costumes for children’s          The Olympic flame for the Turin                 race, with over 6,000 officially reg-    sun    15.00    Ascoli       Reggina
                                          2006 Winter Olympics was lit on                istered, and 5,454 who actually         sun    15.00    Juventus     Cagliari
hospital                                  November 27 and has already begun
The recently nominated standard                                                          participated in the run. There was      sun    15.00    Livorno         Lazio
                                          its long journey through Greece and            also a strong foreign presence,
bearer for Italy’s 2006 Turin             Italy towards its final destination in                                                  sun    15.00    Messina       Chievo
Olympics ice-skater team, Carolina                                                       with over 2,000 runners coming
                                          Turin. The torch will touch Italian                                                    sun    15.00    Parma      Sampdoria
Kostner, recently auctioned off her                                                      from countries all over the globe.
                                          soil on December 6 and will follow             The largest foreign group was from      sun    15.00    Roma         Palermo
designer skating costumes for a           a course starting in Rome and end-
charitable cause. Kostner’s outfits,                                                      France, with about 600 French           sun    15.00    Udinese        Lecce
                                          ing in Turin on February 10, 2006              natives running.
designed by Roberto Cavalli, were                                                                                                sun    20.30    Inter           Milan
                                          for the opening ceremony of the XX                 In a rare occurrence, another
sold at a charity auction that was        Winter Olympic Games.
organised to raise money for a                                                           foreign country managed to domi-
                                                                                         nate almost all of the victories. In     Top 5 scorers
children’s hospital in Genoa.
                                                                                         the men’s race, Kenya’s Samson          player          team               goals
                                                                                         Kosgei arrived first at the finish with
 FOOTBALL STARS BECOME CALENDAR PIN UPS                                                  an almost record-breaking time of
                                                                                         2 hours 11’27”. Co-patriots David
                                                                                                                                 1. Toni
                                                                                                                                 2. Trezeguet
 Top players pose to raise money for cancer research organisation                                                                3. Tavano        Empoli                9
                                                                                         Kriputo and Jomo Godwin took
 Some of Italy’s top football players posed recently for a calendar whose pro-                                                   4. Bonazzoli     Sampdoria             8
                                                                                         second and third places, respec-
 ceeds are set to go to the AIRC cancer research organisation. Antagonists on                                                    5. Gilardino     Milan                 8
                                                                                         tively. In the women’s race, another
 the field, Toni, Cordoba, Del Piero, Kaka, Zambrotta, Zanetti, Montella, Inzaghi,
                                                                                         Kenyan, Alice Chelangat, long out-
 Barzaghi and more, joined together for a good cause and with entertaining
                                                                                         distanced all other women racers
 results. The calendar is available at newsstands together with Chi, Donna
                                                                                         with a time of 2 hours 30’46”.
 Moderna, Grazia, Panorama, Tu and Tv Sorrisi e Canzoni magazines.                                                                  FORZA VIOLA!!!
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                                     

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                                                                                        What’s on & Where to Go                                                                                         9                                                                                                                                                           Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                        Events in FLORENCE                                                  DEC 2 TO DEC 15
                                                                                                             mbership card necessary                         Giallo Serial Killer (in Italian)
                                                                                                             FRIDAY 2
    OUR TOP PICKS                                                                                            n DANCE
                                                                                                                                                             Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
                                                                                                                                                             055.331449,, 21.00
                                                                                                                                                             Antonio Albanese in “Psicoparty” (in
                                                                                 t tt                        XVI Florence Dance Festival Winter
                                                                                                             The Balletto Teatro di Torino dances in
                                                                                                                                                             Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
                                                                                                             Matteo Levaggi’s choreography                   20.45, on Sun 16.45
    SCOTTISH WEEK - December 3-11                                                                            “Differentia”                                   Romeo and Juliet - Romeo e Giulietta
    Organised by the British Consulate in Florence, the Scottish Week will turn Florence into a              Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15, tel.
    piece of Scotland for eight days, with a series of events distributed over the town. A fair of                                                           (in Italian)
                                                                                                             055.289276 and Box Office network,               By Shakespeare
    typical Scottish products will take place in Piazza Santa Maria Novella from 10.30 to 19.30              21.30, €15/12
    every day. Scotland’s popular items of clothing - tweed jackets, knitwear, tartan clothes and                                                            Teatro Everest, via Volterrana 4 c/d , tel.
    accessories - and food and drink including biscuits, jams and whisky will be on sale, together           n EXHIBITS                                      055.2321754,,
                                                                                                                                                             21.00, €12
    with handicrafts and household products. Tartan and tweed jackets created by Polimoda                    The Santa Reparata Art Exhibition
    students will also be on exhibit at the “Mercato Centrale”. Kicking off the celebrations, a              2005 “Fuord’acqua61”                            how
    joint parade of bagpipers and the Florence flag-throwing team will start from historic Piazza             Art show hosted by Santa Reparata               SATURDAY 3
    Signoria at 15:30 on December 3. The parade will finish at Piazza S.M. Novella for the opening            International School of Art. Inauguration
    ceremony of the fair and the inauguration of the Scottish painter Charles Harris’ exhibition
    in the Officina Profumo. Scottish delights have not be forgotten: a Scottish brunch will be
                                                                                                             on Dec 2 from 19 to 21.                         n EXHIBITS
                                                                                                             Studio 61, via San Gallo 61/R, Dec 2-14,        Vento Africano (Tingatinga canvas) &
    organised at the Ristorante de’ Castellani on Sun 4 from 11.00, tastings of single malt whisky           Mon-Thur, 17-20
    await connoisseurs at the Grand Hotel Minerva on Mon 5 and Wed 7 at 18.00, and Scottish                                                                  Jambo Rafiki (photo)
    beers and food are on special promotion for the whole week at the pubs JJ Cathedral (piazza              n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                        Limonaia di Villa Vogel, via delle Torri 23,
                                                                                                                                                             tel. 335.8117001,,
    Duomo), James Joyce (piazza Ferrucci) and Tartan Jock (corso Tintori). The British Institute of          “Un tranquillo agosto di paura” – a trip
    Florence also takes part in the festivities, with a presentation of Ian Rankin’s book “A Question                                                        10.30-22.30
                                                                                                             down the Nahanni River in Canada
    of Blood” on Mon 5 at 18.00.                                                                             Multimedia presentation by Axel Kaiser          n MARKETS & FESTIVALS
                                                                                                             C.R.C. Brozzi, via di Brozzi 312, tel
    A.I.L.O.’S BAZAAR - Deember 8                                                                            055.317691, 21.15, free
                                                                                                                                                             Opening of the Scottish Week
    The American International League of Florence presents its annual bazaar, taking place in a                                                              Parade of the Scottish band together with
    new venue, the former Scuderie Reali called “Le Pagliere”, close to Porta Romana. A.I.L.O.-              n MUSIC & CONCERTS                              the “Corteo storico fiorentino” leaving from
                                                                                                                                                             Palazzo Vecchio at 15.30 ends at Piazza
    ONLUS, which began in 1975, is a self-governing non-profit women’s organization made up
    of English-speaking members from many countries, and its principal activity is to organise the           Suono Italiano Festival: Aramiré                Santa Maria Novella. Inauguration of the
    Bazaar. A.I.L.O. also strives to promote friendship and understanding between its members                Traditional music from Puglia                   Scottish market and of Charles Morris’
    and the community through activities dedicated to social assistance. Over the past few years the         Teatro Le Laudi, via Leonardo Da Vinci 2r,      painting exhibition in Piazza S.M. Novella.
    group has raised and distributed funds to charity in the city and province of Florence. www.             tel. 055.572831, 21.15, free                    Piazza Santa Maria Novella, market open                                                                                          “Dolce melodia” in memory of P. Piccioni        from 10.30 to 19.30
                                                                                                             Lyceum, via degli Alfani, 48, tel.              Christmas Market of the Italian Red
                                                                                                             055.2478264, www.lyceumclubfirenze.
    FLORENCE DANCE FESTIVAL - WINTER SEASON - December 2-12                                                  net, 19.00
                                                                                                                                                             Saschall Lungarno A. Moro, 3, tel.
    The Florence Dance Cultural Centre traditionally presents two contemporary dance festivals
    every year, the Summer Season and Winter Season. The next Winter Season will take place                  Eek-A-Mouse, Jamaican reggae                    055.215381/6504112,, Dec
    at Teatro Goldoni under the artistic direction of Marga Nativo and Keith Ferrone, and will               Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,       3-4, from 10
                                                                                                             tel. 055.487145 and Box Office network,
    see prestigious guest companies such as the Balletto Teatro di Torino and Robert Wood
    Dance – New York Inc. share the stage with the Florence Dance Company. Performances,           , 21.30, €10                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS
    photography exhibitions, meetings with the artists and matinée shows for schools round up                Jacopo Martini Trio                             Baggiani Bop Quintet in “Around the
    the programme which will culminate in a Gala Show.                                  Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.        Bop”
                                                                                                             055.2479700, 22.15, € 8.50                      Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
    BIENNALE INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA - December 3-11                                          Zum
                                                                                                                                                             055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50
    The fifth edition of the Florence Biennale, recognized since 2001 by the United Nations as                Live electroacoustic music                      Pay
    an official partner in the program “Dialogue Among Nations”, will present over 2000 works                 Sala Vanni, piazza del Carmine 19, tel.         Punk rock Italian band
    from international artists. This year’s edition will include as honoured guests Christo and              055.287347 and Box Office network,               Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,
    Jeanne-Claude, who will receive a “Lorenzo the Magnifico Award”. Since 1961, the two                      21.15, €12                                      tel. 055.487145,, 22.00, €5
    French artists have executed monumental installations in Europe, Asia, Australia and the                                                                 Servillo/Girotto/Mangalavite Trio
    United States, such as wrapping the Pont-Neuf in Paris, and setting up 7000 gates with saffron           G. Zei & S. Morrone, guitars
                                                                                                             Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,    Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione
    coloured fabric panels in Central Park in New York. A selection of their most prominent                                                                  Le Vie Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel.
    works will be projected on a large screen at the Biennale. One of the founders of Op Art,                tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free
                                                                                                                                                             055.683388,, 22.00,
    celebrated artist Richard Anuszkiewicz, will also receive this prestigious prize, and many               G. Fruttini & M. Paldi, piano, S.               €10,for ARCI members only
    of his best compositions will be exhibited at the Biennale. Another “Lorenzo il Magnifico”                Careddu, flute
    award will be given to the Harley-Davidson team as homage to its continuous technological                Music by Debussy, Varèse, Rachmaninov,          Tölzer Knabenchor
    development in one of the most modern expressions of life.                       Piazzolla                                       Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                                                                                             Teatro del Sale, Via dei Macci 111r, tel.       tel. 055.22641,,
    46th FESTIVAL DEI POPOLI December 2-8                                                                    055.2001492,,             16.00
    From Paris suburbs riots to the “Concrete Revolution” which sees a skyrocketing market                   19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24            Sultan of Swing
    economy changing forever Beijing’s face, from civil solidarity pacts (PACS) to the debate on             buffet & show, members only                     Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,
    medically assisted procreation, once again the Festival dei Popoli focuses on today’s most                                                               tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free
    controversial issues, confronting visions and cultures.                                                  n THEATRE                                       F. Fanò & S. Micheletti, piano, G.
    Ranking amongst the major international documentary film festivals, this 46th edition                     Barber’s Shop (in Italian)
    presents two official competitions – International and Italian – and additional thematic                                                                  Mazziotti, clarinet.
                                                                                                             Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele        Music by Blake, Joplin, Frey, Gershwin
    sections and a retrospective of Danish film-maker Jørgen Leth.                                            II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                                                                                                                                Teatro del Sale, Via dei Macci 111r, tel.
                                                                                                   , 21.00, €12/14                 055.2001492,,
                                                                                                             Cercando Medea (in Italian)                     19.00-21.15 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24
                                                                                                             Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Pisana 111r,       buffet & show, members only
                                                                                                             tel. 055.7135357,, 21.00,

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10                                                                             What’s on & Where to Go
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                                         

  Events in FLORENCE                                                    DEC 2 TO DEC 15
n THEATRE                                       Waiting for Godot - Aspettando Godot
                                                (in Italian)                                      WEDNESDAY 7
                                                                                                                                                     Florence Symphonietta Orchestra and
                                                                                                                                                     Harmonia Cantata Choir
Augusta Gori in “La volpe nuda” (in             Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel.                                                            Music by Bach, Boccherini and Mozart
Italian)                                        055.572831, 17.00                                 n CINEMA                                           Chiesa di S. Stefano al Ponte Vecchio, via
Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media         Il gatto in cantina (in Italian vernacular)       The Player, by Robert Altman (in English)          Por Santa Maria, tel. 055.477805, 21.00,
Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,        Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele          British Institute, Lungarno Guicciardini 9, tel.   € 8/10
tel. 329.4187925, 21.00, €6/8                   II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                    055.26778270,, 20.30       Station to Station
Barber’s Shop (in Italian)            , 16.30, €10                                                                         Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele                                                          n EXHIBITS                                         Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                  how                                               Inauguration of Florence’s Christmas Tree, 21.00, €12/14                 MONDAY 5                                          The 12-meter high tree will be inaugurated
                                                                                                  by a children’s gospel concert                     n THEATRE
Giallo Serial Killer (in Italian)
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
                                                n CINEMA                                          Piazza Strozzi, tel. 055.2645356, www.             Due amici in guerra (in Italian)
055.331449,, 21.00         Crash (in English)                                                        Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media
                                                Featuring M.Dillon, S.Bullock, B.Fraser                                                              Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,
Antonio Albanese in “Psicoparty” (in
                                                Odeon Cine Hall, piazza Strozzi, tel.             n GUIDED TOURS                                     tel. 329.4187925, 21.00, €6/8
                                                055.214068,, screenings           Florence’s Markets                                 Itinerario d’amore (in Italian)
Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.           at 15.30, 17.50, 20.10 and 22.45
055.212320,,                                                             Guided tours of typical foods in the San           Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel.
                                                                                                  Lorenzo and Sant’Ambrogio markets
20.45, on Sun 16.45                             n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                          Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue
                                                                                                                                                     055.572831, 17.00
Romeo and Juliet - Romeo e Giulietta            Scottish Week                                     and Wed morning                                    L’Ascensione (in Italian)
(in Italian)                                    Presentation of Ian Rankin’s book “A                                                                 Teatro Il Palco, piazza Elia dalla Costa 26,
By Shakespeare                                  Question of Blood”                                n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                           tel. 055.6810496,,
Teatro Everest, via Volterrana 4 c/d , tel.     British Institute Library, Lungarno               Nigel Oxell presents his latest book               16.30
055.2321754,,              Guicciardini 9, tel. 055.26778270, 18.00          “Amberley”                                         Valerio Mastandrea in “Migliore” (in
21.00, €12                                                                                        British Institute, Lungarno Guicciardini 9,        Italian)
Waiting for Godot - Aspettando Godot            n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             tel. 055.26778270, www.britishinstitute.           Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
(in Italian)                                    Scottish Week                                     it, 18.00                                          055.362067,, 21.00
Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel.       Tasting of Single Malt whisky from the            Learn to cook: Pasta & Rice, 4 ways to
                                                “Classic Malts” series                                                                               how
055.572831, 21.00
                                                Grand Hotel Minerva, piazza S.M.Novella, 18.00
                                                                                                  cook them                                          FRIDAY 9
Suoni e Sapori Festival (Sounds and                                                               3-hour cooking class with dinner (in English)
“L’Acquachetta”, comedy in vernacular with
                                                n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                Eurasia Association, via dell’Ardiglione 39
                                                                                                  (on the corner of via dei Serragli) info and
                                                                                                                                                     n DANCE
live music at 20; Tuscan dinner at 22.          Lee Ryan                                          booking 055.217672, www.eurasia-net.               XVI Florence Dance Festival Winter
Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel.         Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.              org, 18.00, €20                                    Season
055.580996,, concert         055.6504112,, tickets at                                                             Florence Dance Company dances in
€10/12, dinner €20                              Box Office network, 21.00, €25.30                  n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                              Robert Wood’s choreography “Silence”
                                                Dr Trio                                           Scottish Week                                      Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15,
how                                             Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.          Tasting of Single Malt whisky from the             booking on 055.289276 and Box Office
SUNDAY 4                                        055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50                         “Classic Malts” series                             network, 21.30, €15/12

n EXHIBITS                                      how
                                                                                                  Grand Hotel Minerva, piazza S.M.Novella, 18.00     n MUSIC & CONCERTS
Vento Africano (Tingatinga canvas) &
                                                TUESDAY 6                                         Thrift Shop                                        Concert by the best students of Sound
                                                                                                  St. James Church, via Rucellai 9, tel.             Music School
Jambo Rafiki (photo)
Limonaia di Villa Vogel, via delle Torri 23,    n CINEMA                                          055.294417, 10-12                                  Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
tel. 335.8117001,,            An Unfinished Life (in English)                    n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                 055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50
10.30-22.30                                     By L.Hallstrom featuring R.Redford,               Stadio “L’amore volubile Tour 2005”                Mariella Nava “Condivisioni Tour”
                                                J.Lopez, M.Freeman. “Apericinema”:                                                                   Teatro Everest, via Volterrana 4 c/d , tel.
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                           aperitivo and free buffet supper from
                                                                                                  Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
                                                                                                  055.6504112,, tickets at           055.2321754,
Scottish Week                                   19.45, followed by the scheduled movie            Box Office network, 21.00                           Martinica Boison
Scottish brunch                                 screening at 21.30                                                                                   Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.
Ristorante de’Castellani, piazza del Grano      Odeon Cine Hall, piazza Strozzi, tel.             Gay and Lesbian Action Night
                                                                                                  Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,          055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte.
angolo via de’ Neri, tel. 055 284100 /          055.214068,, screenings                                                              org, 22.00
2676309, from 11.00                             at 15.30, 17.50, Apericinema from 19.45;          tel. 055.487145,, 22.00, €10/8
                                                                                                                                                     Michael Moore Jewels & Binoculars
Christmas Market of the Italian Red             € 11 cinema and free buffet supper                n THEATRE                                          play the music of Bob Dylan
Saschall Lungarno A. Moro, 3, tel.
                                                n GUIDED TOURS                                    Qed - un giorno nella vita di Richard              Sala Vanni, piazza del Carmine 19, tel.
                                                I Sapori dell’Olio                                Feynmann (in Italian)                              055.287347, 21.15, €12
055.215381/6504112,, Dec                                                               Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
3-4, from 10                                    Guided tour of the Legnaia factory and                                                               Sud Sound System, Italian reggae
                                                tasting of different types of Tuscan oil          II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.                     band
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                              Firenze Cooperativa Agricola di Legnaia,, 21.00, €12/14                    Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,
                                                via Baccio da Montelupo 180, tel.                 how                                                tel. 055.487145 and Box Office network,
The Flute between Jazz and Films
Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careggi,     055.7358221,, 16.00, free          THURSDAY 8                               , 21.00, €10
viale Morgagni,,            Florence’s Markets                                                                                   Tribal Jazz
10.30, free                                     Guided tours and sampling of typical foods in     n DANCE                                            Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,
                                                the San Lorenzo and Sant’Ambrogio markets         XVI Florence Dance Festival Winter                 tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free
Musica e Natura – Il Mare
Music by Vivaldi, Debussy, Campogrande          Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue           Season                                             Station to Station
and Crumb on the theme of the sea               and Wed morning                                   Florence Dance Company dances in                   Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
Sala Vanni, piazza del Carmine 19, tel.
055.699223, 10.30
                                                n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                          Robert Wood’s choreography “Silence”
                                                                                                  Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15,
                                                                                                                                                     Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
                                                Learn to cook: Gnocchi and Ravioli                booking on 055.289276 and Box Office
Kuss Quartet
Music by Mozart, Berg and Brahms
                                                3-hour cooking class with dinner (in English)     network, 21.30, €15/12                             n THEATRE
                                                Eurasia Association, via dell’Ardiglione 39                                                          Due amici in guerra (in Italian)
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
tel. 055.22641,,
                                                (on the corner of via dei Serragli) info and      n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                              Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media
                                                booking 055.217672, www.eurasia-net.              A.I.L.O.’s Bazaar                                  Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,
21.00                                           org, 18.00, €20                                   The American International League of               tel. 329.4187925, 21.00, €6/8
n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                           n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             Florence presents its annual bazaar,               Valerio Mastandrea in “Migliore” (in
Fiorentina – Juventus                                                                             aiming to raise and distribute funds to            Italian)
                                                Mercato delle Cascine                             charity in the city and province
Serie A professional soccer match               Clothing, leather, fruit, shoes, flowers.                                                             Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
Stadio Comunale Artemio Franchi, viale M.                                                         Le Pagliere (former Scuderie Reali), viale         055.362067,, 21.00
                                                Parco delle Cascine, 8-13                         Machiavelli 24,, 12-16
Fanti 4/6, tel. 055.5030190, 15.00                                                                                                                   La Califfa
XXVIII Maratonina del Vitello d’oro             n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                Il libro in piazza                                 Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
3, 6 and 15km footrace in Ellera hills          Suono Italiano Festival: Canti Molesti            Second-hand book market                            II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
Meeting point at 8.00 at Circolo Ricreativo     Italian songs from the 16th century to nowadays   Piazza Indipendenza, info 055.2616562, 8-19, 21.00, €12/14
“R. Murri”, Ellera, Fiesole, tel. 055.6593078   Teatro Le Laudi, via Leonardo Da Vinci 2r,        Fierucola dell’Immacolata
                                                tel. 055.572831, 21.15, free                      Piazza SS. Annunziata, tel. 055.697747             how
n THEATRE                                                                                                                                            SATURDAY 10
                                                Jam Session + House Band – Tribute                Flower Market
Massimo Tarducci in “Jacques Prevert”
(in Italian)
                                                to Duke Ellington
                                                Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
                                                                                                  Via Pellicceria, 8-13                              n GUIDED TOURS
Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media                                                           Antique Market                                     Extraordinary opening and visit of
                                                055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50                         Teatro Romano, Fiesole
Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,                                                                                                             Villa di Poggio Imperiale
tel. 329.4187925, 21.00, €6/8                   n THEATRE                                         n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                 Piazzale Poggio Imperiale, tel. 055.293007,
                                                Qed - un giorno nella vita di Richard                                                                15-17.30
Giallo Serial Killer (in Italian)                                                                 Cuban music by Perfidia Quartet
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
055.331449,, 21.00
                                                Feynmann (in Italian)
                                                Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
                                                                                                  Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.           n MUSIC & CONCERTS
                                                                                                  055.2479700, 22.15, € 8.50                         Bill Carrothers Trio
Antonio Albanese in “Psicoparty” (in            II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
                                      , 21.00, €12/14                   Enfant Rouge                                       Pinocchio Jazz Club c/o Associazione
Italian)                                                                                          Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.          Le Vie Nuove, v.le Giannotti 13, tel.
Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.                                                             055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte.                055.683388,, 22.00,
055.212320,,                                                             org, 22.00, €3                                     €10, ARCI members only
20.45, on Sun 16.45
                                                                              What’s on & Where to Go                                                                                       11                                                                                                                                                Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                             Events in FLORENCE                                                   DEC 2 TO DEC 15
Latina Jazz Contest
Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.        n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                           n THEATRE                                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS
055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50                       Cus Firenze Giunti - Rugby Brescia              I ragazzi irresistibili (in Italian)               Folk songs from the mountains by La
Suoni e Sapori Festival (Sounds and             Serie A professional rugby match                Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,       Martinella choir
Flavours)                                       Campo Padovani, viale Pasquale Paoli 21,        tel. 055.22641,,             C.R.C. Brozzi, via di Brozzi 312, tel
Cello and piano jazz trio at 20; dinner at 21   tel. 055.573821, 14.30                          20.45, €15/29                                      055.317691, 21.15, free
Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1, tel.         Fiorentina – Treviso                            how                                                Cuban music by Perfidia Quartet
055.580996,, concert         Serie A professional soccer match               WEDNESDAY 14                                       Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
€10/12, dinner €20                              Stadio Comunale Artemio Franchi, viale M.                                                          055.2479700, 22.15, € 8.50
Christmas Concert by the Coro                   Fanti 4/6, tel. 055.5030190, 15.00              n CINEMA                                           Taranta Nait
Polifonico Senesi
Chiesa di San Giovannino dei Cavalieri, via
                                                n THEATRE                                       Gosford Park, by Robert Altman (in                 Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,
                                                                                                                                                   tel. 055.487145 and Box Office network,
                                                L’Ascensione (in Italian)                       English)
San Gallo 66, tel. 055.680487, 21.00                                                            British Institute, Lungarno Guicciardini 9, tel., 21.30, €5
                                                Teatro Il Palco, piazza Elia dalla Costa 26,
L. Batiashvili, violin & M.                     tel. 055.6810496,,        055.26778270,, 20.30       Christmas Concert (orchestra and
Cernayanvska, piano                                                                                                                                choir)
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                                16.30                                           n DANCE                                            Music by Schumann
tel. 055.22641,,           Il fiore che non colsi - un amore                SpreadingOut / Dif-fusione poetica                 Cattedrale di Fiesole, Fiesole, tel.
16.00                                           fantastico (in Italian)                         Dance and poetry                                   055.597851, 21.00
                                                Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel.       Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15, tel.
Nina Nastasia                                   055.572831, 17.00                                                                                  Francesco Maccianti Trio
Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.                                                       055.350986                                         Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,
055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte.
org, 22.00
                                                MONDAY 12                                       n GUIDED TOURS                                     tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free

The Sneakers – Tribute to Depeche Mode
                                                                                                Florence’s Markets                                 n THEATRE
Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,       n CINEMA                                        Guided tours and sampling of
                                                                                                typical foods in the San Lorenzo and
                                                                                                                                                   Anna e Norma (in Italian)
tel. 055.487145,, 21.30, €5          Manderlay (in English)                                                                             Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media
                                                                                                Sant’Ambrogio markets                              Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,
Cristiano Paccini Group                         By Lars von Trier featuring Bryce Dallas        Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue
                                                Howard, Willem Dafoe, Danny Glover.                                                                tel. 329.4187925, 21.00, €6/8
Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,                                                    and Wed morning
tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free                    Odeon Cine Hall, piazza Strozzi, tel.                                                              Laboratorio Zelig (in Italian)
Station to Station
                                                055.214068,, screenings         n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                              Performed by selected young comics
                                                at 16.00, 19.00, and 22.00                      A Celebration for Christmas                        Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale                                                                                                                II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.           n DANCE                                         An evening of readings, surprises, music
                                                                                                and mince pies                           , 21.00, €10                                 XVI Florence Dance Festival Winter              British Institute, Lungarno Guicciardini 9,        I ragazzi irresistibili (in Italian)
n THEATRE                                       Season
                                                Fabula Saltica dances in “L’Histoire du
                                                                                                tel. 055.26778270, www.britishinstitute.           Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
Musica e Cultura                                                                                it, 18.00                                          tel. 055.22641,,
                                                Soldat” by Claudio Ronda accompanied                                                               20.45, €15/29
Music and theatre show performed by             by Stravinsky’s music                           Thrift Shop
Michele dall’Ongaro and Michele Serra           Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15,             St. James Church, via Rucellai 9, tel.             La vedova Socrate (in Italian)
Istituto degli Innocenti, piazza SS.            booking on 055.289276 and Box Office             055.294417, 10-12                                  Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
Annunziata 12, tel. 055.597851, www.                                                                                                               055.362067,, 21.00, 21.00
                                                network, 21.30, €15/12                          n MUSIC & CONCERTS
L’Ascensione (in Italian)                       n MUSIC & CONCERTS                              Joy De Vito Quartet                                how
Teatro Il Palco, piazza Elia dalla Costa 26,    Gianfranco Borghini Duo                         Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
                                                                                                055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50
tel. 055.6810496,,
                                                Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3, tel.
                                                055.2479700, 22.15, €8.50                       Opeth + Burst
                                                                                                                                                   n CINEMA
                                                                                                Auditorium Flog, via Mercati Michele 24b,          46th vFestival dei Popoli
Valerio Mastandrea in “Migliore” (in            King’s Singers                                                                                     International film festival
Italian)                                        Music by Maxwell Davies and Saint-Saens         tel. 055.487145,, 20.30, €20
                                                                                                                                                   In several cinemas of Florence, tel.
Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
055.362067,, 21.00
                                                Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                                tel. 055.22641,,
                                                                                                n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES                              055.244778,,
                                                                                                The Olympic Flame in Florence                      Dec 2-8, films shown in original version
La Califfa (in Italian)                         21.00                                                                                              with subtitles
                                                                                                Famous Italian sportsmen will bear the
Teatro di Rifredi, via Vittorio Emanuele
II 303, tel. 055.4220361, www.
                                                n THEATRE                                       torch through the city                             Laboratorio Cinema 110 - The Marx
                                                Che bella famiglia! (in Italian)                                     Brothers, 21.00, €12/14                                                                                                                    Cineteca di Firenze, via R. Giuliani 374,
Il fiore che non colsi - un amore
                                                Teatrino dell’Imbarco, c/o Scuola Media
                                                Guicciardini, via Ramirez de Montalvo 1,
                                                                                                n THEATRE                                          tel. 055.450749,,
fantastico (in Italian)                         tel. 329.4187925, 21.00, €6/8                   I ragazzi irresistibili (in Italian)               Dec 5-14, most films are shown in original
Teatro Le Laudi, via L. da Vinci 2r, tel.                                                       Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,       version with Italian subtitles
055.572831, 21.00                               “Il malatino” (musical in Italian)              tel. 055.22641,,
                                                Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.                                                         River to River
                                                                                                20.45, €15/29                                      Indian Film Festival
how                                             055.362067,, 20.30
SUNDAY 11                                                                                       how
                                                                                                                                                   Spazio Uno, via del Sole 10, tel.
                                                TUESDAY 13                                      THURSDAY 15                                        055.2654257,, Dec
n DANCE                                                                                                                                            9-15, films shown in original version with
                                                                                                                                                   English subtitles
XVI Florence Dance Festival Winter              n CINEMA                                        n CINEMA
                                                The Interpreter (in English)
                                                                                                La Marche de l’Empereur (in original               n EXHIBITS
Florence Dance Company dances in                                                                French version)                                    Scottish WeeK
choreographies by Keith Ferron and              By Sydney Pollack with Nicole Kidman,           Highly acclaimed film about penguins’
                                                Sean Penn. “Apericinema”: aperitivo and                                                            Tartan & Tweed jackets created by the
Geoffrey Cauley                                                                                 lives                                              Polimoda students are on exhibition in the
Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15,             free buffet supper from 19.45, followed by      Odeon Cine Hall, piazza Strozzi, tel.
                                                the scheduled movie screening at 21.30                                                             San Lorenzo covered market
booking on 055.289276 and Box Office                                                             055.214068,, screenings            Mercato Centrale, piazza del Mercato
network, 21.30, €15/12                          Odeon Cine Hall, piazza Strozzi, tel.           at 15.30, 17.50, 20.10 and 22.45
                                                055.214068,, screenings                                                            Centrale, Dec 3-11, Mon-Fri 7-13, Sat
n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                           at 15.15 and 17.45, Apericinema from            n DANCE                                            7-17
Gardini d’inverno – cultural itineraries        19.45; € 11 cinema and free buffet supper       SpreadingOut / Dif-fusione poetica
                                                                                                                                                   The Santa Reparata Art Exhibition
                                                                                                                                                   2005 “Fuord’acqua61”
in Piazza Dalmazia
Folk songs and dances, tasting of
                                                n GUIDED TOURS                                  Dance and poetry
                                                                                                Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Maria 15, tel.
                                                                                                                                                   Art show hosted by Santa Reparata
chestnuts and new wine                          Florence’s Markets                                                                                 International School of Art.
                                                                                                055.350986                                         Studio 61, via San Gallo 61/R, Dec 2-14,
Piazza Dalmazia, 16.00, free                    Guided tours and sampling of
S. Spirito Market
                                                typical foods in the San Lorenzo and            n EXHIBITS                                         Mon-Thur, 17-20
                                                Sant’Ambrogio markets                           “Véstiti di giornale!”, artworks made              Food and Flavours in the Ancient World
Piazza Santo Spirito, all day                   Info and booking 055.3036108, every Tue         of paper by Ivano Vitali                           Archaeology
n MUSIC & CONCERTS                              and Wed morning                                 Centro Commerciale Le Piagge                       Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna 36,
Christmas Concert by the Animae                 n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                        (Saletta Soci), via Lombardia 15, tel.
                                                                                                328.1134144, Dec 15-18, 9-13, 15-19
                                                                                                                                                   tel. 055.294883 /23575, until January 15
                                                                                                                                                   , Mon 14-19, Tues, Thur 8.30-19, Wed,
Voces Choir                                     Learn to cook: Polenta                                                                             Fri, Sun 8.30-14, € 4, www.firenzemusei.
Auditorium della Clinica Medica di Careggi,
viale Morgagni, tel. 055.580996, www.
                                                3-hour cooking class with dinner (in English)   n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                           it/archeologica
                                                Eurasia Association, via dell’Ardiglione 39     Booksigning and presentation of the, 10.30, free                    (on the corner of via dei Serragli) info and                                                       The Island of Treasures
                                                                                                book “Florence, Flavors of the World”              Archaeological exhibition of ancient and
Christmas Concert by the Opera                  booking 055.217672, www.eurasia-net.            Lori de Mori
                                                org, 18.00, €20                                                                                    modern ceramics for the table
Polifonica Ensemble                                                                             McRae Books, via dei Neri 32/r, tel.               Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna,
Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi,
Borgo Pinti 58, tel. 055.680487, 21.00          n MUSIC & CONCERTS                              055.2382456, 18.00                                 36, tel. 055. 294883, www.firenzemusei.
                                                                                                “La cucina toscana e le sue origini”               it/archeologica, until January 15 2006,
Tollen Mecdonas                                 Maggio Musicale Orchestra and Choir                                                                Mon 14-19, Tues, Thurs 8.30-19, Wed, Fri-
                                                Oratorio by Liszt                               Workshop on Tuscan cooking with dinner
Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel.                                                       Museo Archeologico Nazionale, via della            Sun 8.30-14
055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte.             Teatro Comunale, corso Italia 16, tel.
                                                199.112112,,            Colonna 36, tel. 055.2645356, www.                 Ideas, Models, Inventions. The Patents
org, 22.00                                                                                      invernoafirenze                                     of Ferragamo 1929-1964
Jerusalem Trio                                                                                                                                     Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, via
Music by Shostakovich, Ravel and Kopelmann      Riccardo Fassi Trio                             n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                              Tornabuoni 2, tel. 055.3360456, www.
Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,    Ottorino Jazz Bistrò, via delle Oche 12/16r,    Flower Market                            , until December 31,
tel. 055.22641,,           tel. 055.215151, 21.30, free                    Via Pellicceria, 8-13
12                                                                              What’s on & Where to Go
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                                         

   Events in FLORENCE                                                    DEC 2 TO DEC 15
Mon-F ri 9-13, 14-18, free                        Incontro fra coloristi
                                                  Maison Enrico Coveri , Lungarno
                                                                                                   “Soste Impreviste”, drawings by Maria
                                                                                                   Teresa Maiello                                    n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
“Jazz in Paint” by Giuseppe Giliberto
Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca 16r,            Guicciardini 19, tel. 055.281004, until          La Corte Arte Contemporanea, via de’              Le Mulina horse track
tel. 055.281940, www.carusojazzcafe.              December 12, Tues-Sat, 11-13, 15.30-             Coverelli 27r, tel. 055.284435, from Dec 6        Ippodromo Le Mulina, Parco delle Cascine,
co, until end December, 10:00-16:00 and           19.30                                            to Jan 5, 16-19, closed Mon and Sun               viale Pegaso 1, tel. 055.411130, until
18:00-20:00                                       Praticomateriale                                 Florence’s Christmas Tree                         December, afternoon races at 14.30
“Psiche Pathos Logos” by Luca Alinari             Mixed technique contemporary artworks
                                                  Spazio Espositivo Vallecchi BZF, via
                                                                                                   Piazza Strozzi,, from
                                                                                                   Dec 7 to Jan 15
                                                                                                                                                     n THEATRE
Museo Archeologico, via della Colonna                                                                                                                Il penultimo tango a Compiobbi (in Italian)
36, tel. 055.294883 /23575, until January         Panicale 61r, tel. 055.2741009, www.bzf.         Vento Africano (Tingatinga canvas) &
                                                  it, until January 5                                                                                Teatro Nuovo, via Fanfani 16, tel.
15, Mon 14-19, Tues, Thur 8.30-19, Wed,                                                            Jambo Rafiki (photo)                               055.413067, until December 26, Sat
Fri, Sun 8.30-14, € 4, www.firenzemusei.           “Altra città”, photographs by Lorenzo            Parterre, piazza della Libertà, tel.              21.15, Sun and Holidays 16.15, €11
it/archeologica                                   Vannini                                          335.8117001,, Dec 8-
                                                  Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.       11, 10.30-22.30                                   La Mandragola (in Italian)
Splendors of Chianti: the Madonnas                                                                                                                   Teatro di Cestello, piazza del Cestello 4,
of Chianti and Casale                             055.362067,, until          Le Natività degli antiquari fiorentini
                                                  Dec 11                                                                                             tel. 055.294609, www.teatrodicestello.tbo.
Galleria degli Uffizi, until December 8, 10-                                                        A unique and fascinating itinerary                it, Dec 3, 4, 8, 10 and 11, 21.00, Sun and
13, 15-18                                         From Puccio di Simone to Giottino.               through the 40 antique shops of Florence          holidays 16.30
Slovakia, crossroads of European                  Restoration and confermation                     especially adorned with precious nativities
                                                  Galleria dell’Accademia, via Ricasoli 50, tel.   Antique shops in the city center, tel.            La buonanima (in Italian)
civilisations                                                                                                                                        Teatro Reims, via Reims 30, tel.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, via della           055.294883,,           055.2643556,, until
                                                  until Jan 29, Tues-Sun 8.15-18.50                Jan 20                                            055.6811255, until Dec 11, Sat 21.15,
Colonna 36, tel. 055.294883, www.                                                                                                                    Sun 17.00, until January 15     Giampaolo Tomassetti “Eugenìa”                   Sculptures by Grazia Gargani
                                                  Mixed technique artworks on body                 Bernasconi                                        Giovanna d’Arco (in Italian)
Restoration of Donatello’s Amore-Attis                                                                                                               Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
Museo Nazionale del Bargello, via del             RossoVentinove ArteContemporanea,                Saletta Costantini, v.Portigiani, Fiesole, tel.
                                                  via de’ Fossi 25, until Dec 17, tel.             800-414240, from Dec 9 to Jan 8                   tel. 055.22641,,
Proconsolo 4, tel. 055-2654321, www.                                                                                                                 until Dec 4, 20.45, on Sun 15.45, €15/29, until January 8,           055.2399955                                      Relatività from Galileo to Einstein
8.15-13.50, closed on 2nd and 4th Mon             Contrappunti - partiture segniche                An exhibition presenting the figure of             Una storia d’amore. Anton Cechov e
and on 1st, 3rd and 5th Sun of the month          Engravings by E.Kito e V.Burlizzi                Einstein and promotingthe public’s                Olga Knipper (in Italian)
                                                  Galleria Il Bisonte, via San Niccolò 24r, tel.   broader understanding of Science                  Teatro Puccini, via delle Cascine 41, tel.
Mythologica et Erotica                                                                                                                               055.362067,, until
Art and Culture from Antiquity to the XVIII       055-2342585, until Dec 9, Mon-Fri 9-13,          Museo di Storia della Scienza, piazza dei
                                                  15-19                                            Giudici 1, tel. 055.265311,,        Dec 4, 21.00, Sun 16.45
Museo degli Argenti, Palazzo Pitti, until         10x10: 10 Galleries, 10 Artists                  from Dec 9 to March 12                            Noio vulevòn savuàr...ancor (in Italian)
                                                                                                                                                     Variety show
May 15, 8.15-18.30 (Oct, April, May),
8.15-16.30 (Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb)
                                                  10 Florentine galleries present 10 important
                                                  art events during the winter months
                                                                                                   n GUIDED TOURS                                    Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
                                                  Several galleries in Florence, tel.              Artisans of the Oltrarno, in search of            055.212320,,
Donna. Donne                                                                                       artistic craftsmanship                            Dec 6-11, 20.45, on Sun 16.45
Exhibition dedicated to the theme of the          055.23320,, until
                                                  February 28                                      A tour designed for those who want to             Uncle Vania – Zio Vanja (in Italian)
“feminine” in contemporary art                                                                     discover and bring home the artisan heart
Palazzo Strozzi, piazza Strozzi, tel.             Gemine Muse 2005 – Young Artists in                                                                Teatro della Pergola, via della Pergola, 18,
                                                                                                   of Florence, savouring the genuine and            tel. 055.22641,,
055.2776461,,             Europe’s Museums                                 finest of Florentine artisan traditions.
until January 8, 10-19                            Works by Dario Ariamone, Chiara                                                                    Dec 6-11, 20.45, on Sun 15.45, €15/29
                                                                                                   Until December 24, Info 055.3036108,
Interferenza                                      Guarducci and Simone Simonetti                                    how
Sculpture and paper works of art by               Museo di Firenze Com’Era, via Oriolo 4, tel.
                                                                                                   Bardini Garden
                                                                                                                                                     UP COMING
Hidetoshi Nagasawa                                055.2625982, until Feb 26
                                                                                                   Giardino Bardini, via dei Bardi 1r, www.
Galleria Il Ponte, via di Mezzo 42 b, tel.        Gemine Muse 2005 – Young Artists in    , until February, guided          n EXHIBITS
055.240617,,              Europe’s Museums                                 visits from 8.15 to 16.30                         III International Exhibits
until December 31, 16-19.30, closed on            Works by Alessandro Casati, Leonardo                                                               Featuring winning diplomas in Architecture
Mondays, Sundays and Holidays                     Filastò and Franco Menicagli                     Hortibus Collection & Garden tours
                                                                                                   Starting point: piazza S.Trinita, every Thur      and environment
“The Colors of the World” by Piero da             Galleria del Costume, Palazzo Pitti, piazza                                                        Info & applications: Fondazione Romualdo
                                                  Pitti 1, tel. 055.294883, until Jan 30, 8,15-    and Sat at 15.00, info 348.9100783,
Uboldo                                                                                   , € 25                            Del Bianco, www. fondazione-delbianco.
Otel Congress, Lungarno Diaz 9, tel.              13,50, closed 1st, 3rd and 5th Mon of the                                                          org,, applications
055.650791,, until            month and Dec 25, 26 and Jan 1st, €5             n LECTURES & CONFERENCES                          until December 31
December 9, free                                  Exhibition of Atlas and Maps of the
Leon Battista Alberti: a Humanist’s               Tuscan Territory from the XVI to the
                                                                                                   Innovation Week
                                                                                                   Series of events related to innovation
                                                                                                                                                     n MUSIC & CONCERTS
Library                                           XIX century                                      in various fields: workshops, seminars,            Marco Masini
Biblioteca Laurenziana, S. Lorenzo 9,        Istituto Geografico Militare, via C. Battisti     exhibitions                                       Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, tel.
055-210760,, until          10, until Dec 21, Mon-Fri 9.30-14.30,            Different places in Florence and around           055.212320, tickets at Box Office
January 7, 9.30 – 13, €3/5, guided tours in       bookings on 055.2732229                          Florence, tel. 055.2661044, www.                  network, Dec 18
English available                                 La Grande Guerra degli Artisti         , Nov 30-Dec 7,            Franz Ferdinand
Perugino a Firenze                                Exhibit of artworks realised during the          admission is free of charge but with prior        Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
Cenacolo di Fuligno, via Faenza, 40, tel.         Great War period                                 registration                                      055.6504112,, tickets at
                                                  Museo Marino Marini, Piazzo San                                                                    Box Office network, Dec 18
055.2337702, until January 8, Tues-Sun,
10-18, free                                       Pancrazio, tel. 055.219432, www.                 n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                             James Blunt
                                        , from Dec 2 until           Scottish Week                                     Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.
Leonardo da Vinci: The True Image                 March 25, 10-17, closed on Tues and              Scottish market in the square and painting
Testimonies and documents of his life and work                                                                                                       055.6504112,, tickets at
                                                  holidays,€4/2                                    exhibition by Charles Morris in Officina           Box Office network, Jan 15
Archivio di Stato, viale Giovine Italia 6, tel.                                                    Profumo di S.M. Novella.
055.244422, until January 28, 9.30-12.30          Mistieri                                                                                           Oasis
                                                  A contemporary art tribute to antique            Piazza Santa Maria Novella, Dec 3-11,
and 15-18, free admission                                                                          market open 10.30-19.30, exhibition               Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
                                                  Florentine crafts                                                                                  Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
Gregorio Magno ritrovato... sotto le righe        Chiesa di Santa Monaca, via S.Monaca,            accordino to shop hours
Biblioteca Riccardiana, via Ginori 10, tel.                                                                                                , February 6
                                                  tel. 055.2645356,,         Mercato del Porcellino
055.212586, until December 16, Mon,               from Dec 2 to Jan 15                             Florentine crafts with straw, hand-made           Deep Purple
Thurs, 9-13, 15-17, Tues, Wed, Fri 9-13                                                            embroidery, leather and woodwork,                 Nelson Mandela Forum (ex Palasport), viale
                                                  5ª Biennale Internazionale dell’Arte                                                               Pasquale Paoli, tel. 055.678841, www.
Tapestries of Faith and War                       Contemporanea                                    flowers
Palazzo Pazzi Ammannati, Borgo Albizi 28, tel.                                                     Logge del Porcellino, every day, all day, March 13
                                                  International exhibition of contemporary
055.240277, until Dec 4, 10-13, 15-19, € 4/2      art. Special highlight on artists Christo &      Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt                      how
Cow Parade                                        Jeanne-Claude and Richard Anuszkiewicz,          German Christmas Market                            CHILDREN
All around the town, info 055.203971,             who will receive a “Lorenzo il Magnifico          Piazza Santa Croce, tel., until January 20                Award for Career Achievement”                    055.27681/27051, until Dec 18, 10-20
                                                  Fortezza da Basso, v.le Strozzi 1,                                                                 n LECTURES & CONFERENCES
Photography exhibit to commemorate                tel. 055.49721/4633385, www.                     n MUSIC & CONCERTS                                International workshop for children:
the 30th anniversary of the death of Pier Dec 3-11, 10-20,             La Traviata                                       “Le Fiabe del Cacao”
Paolo Pasolini, a famous Italian director         €10/6                                            Opera by Giuseppe Verdi                           Readings and entertainment by Gracela
Palazzo Pitti, Galleria del Gabbiano,        Precious Sculptures by Alberto Zorzi             Teatro Comunale, corso Italia 16, tel.            Moneta
Pitti, tel. 055-288342, until January 9, Tue-     Galleria Il Ponte, via di Mezzo 42b, tel.        055.213535,, on           Ludoteca Interculturale, via Faenza 44a, tel.
Sun 8.15-18.50, €6,50                             055.240617, from Dec 3 to Jan 14, 16-            Dec 3,4,6,7,9 at 20:30 except Sun at 15:30        055.2399691, Dec 3, 16.30
Ceramics by Paolo Staccioli                       19.30, closed on Mondays, holidays and           Organ and instrumental concerts                   Readings, entertainment and
Palazzo Pitti, Museo delle Porcellane, tel.       Jan 1-8                                          Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del          workshops
055.2388709, until June 25, 8.15-16.30, closed    Marilyn and Friends                              Corso, tel. 055.289367, until December            Biblioteca Isolotto, viale dei Pini 54, tel.
on the 1st and last Monday of the month           155 images mostly unpublished of                 31, Mon-Sun 21.15, Sat 18.00, €11                 055.710834, Dec 3 and 10, 16.30
“Hyperlandscapes” by Paolo Consorti               Marilyn Monroe, taken by the most famous
                                                  photographers of the 20th century.
                                                                                                   Concerts at St. Mark’s English Church
                                                                                                   St. Mark’s English Church, via Maggio 16-
                                                                                                                                                     n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
Sergio Tossi Arte Contemporanea, via                                                                                                                 Games & activities for children
Ippolito Pindemonte 63, tel. 055.2286163,         Sala d’Arme, Palazzo Vecchio, piazza della       18, tel. 340.8119192, every Tue, Thu, Sat
                                                  Signoria, tel. 055.23951, from Dec 3 to          and Sun at 18.30, €15. For The Florentine         Learn by playing and play by learning
until December 7, Tue-Sat 15-19                                                                                                                      Ludoteca La Prua, via della Sala 2/I, tel.
                                                  Jan 20, 10-19, closed Dec 25 and Jan 1,          readers €10
Words, Music and Images from Luigi                €6.50/5                                                                                            055.315173, Dec 3 and 10, 15-18
Dallapiccola’s life and works                                                                                                                        Carpentry Workshop
Galleria di Arte Moderna, Palazzo Pitti, tel.     Paintings by Daniel Craighead
                                                  Palazzo Panciatichi, via Cavour 2, tel.                                                            ArPA, via Poggio della Pieve 10/a, Bagno
055. 2388601, until December 21, 8.15-                                                                                                               a Ripoli, tel. 055.8316399, Dec 9, 16.30-
13.50                                             055.23871, from Dec 5-12, Mon-Fri 15-
                                                  18, Sat 9-12                                                                                       18.30
                                                                             What’s on & Where to Go                                                                                     13                                                                                                                                              Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                           Events in FLORENCE                                                  DEC 2 TO DEC 15
n THEATRE                                      The Island of Treasures
                                               Archaeological exhibition
                                                                                                Leonardo’s Nativity
                                                                                                Museo Ideale di Leonardo da Vinci, via
                                                                                                                                                 New Oil Fair
                                                                                                                                                 Barberino Val d’Elsa, Sun only
Il Paese di Sonaglio                           Antiquarium S. Appiano, Barberino Val            Montalbano 2, Vinci, tel. 0571.56296, from       Aspettando Natale – Craft Fair
Children 3 and older                           d’Elsa, tel. 055.8075622, until April 30         Dec 15 to Jan 6, 10-13 & 15-19                   Strada in Chianti, Greve in Chianti, Sat
Teatro Moderno ARCI, via Gramsci 5,
Tavarnuzze, tel. 333.7128510, www.
                                               The Island of Treasures
                                               Archaeological exhibition
                                                                                                n GUIDED TOURS                                   only, Dec 4, 17.00                                                              Wine and Fashion in the Florentine               A Natale Regala Antico – Christmas
                                               Museo d’Arte Sacra di San Francesco,                                                              Antique Fair
Pollicino                                      Greve in Chianti, tel. 055.8545215, until        Mountains. Itineraries with guided
                                                                                                visits, shopping                                 Piazza Buondelmonti, Impruneta, 10-19
Children 5 and older                           January, Thur-Fri 10-13, Sat-Sun 15.30-
Teatro Moderno ARCI, via Gramsci 5,            18.30                                            Tours to discover the beauties of the            Craft and Antique Fair
Tavarnuzze, tel. 333.7128510, www.                                                              Florentine Mountains: the art, culture and       Certaldo, Sun only, 9-20
                                               Treasures of Ancient Art                         nature together with food, visits to artisan, Dec 11, 17.00            Villa Medicea, Cerreto Guidi, tel.                                                                Antique and Modernariato Fair
                                                                                                workshops and local shopping centres             City center, Pontassieve, Sun only
Caterina e l’Orchessa                          0571.55707, www.comune.cerreto-guidi.            (Dicomano, Londa, Pelago, Pontassieve,
Puppet show for children aged 4-10   , until December                             Reggello, Rufina, San Godenzo). Starts at         Aspettando Natale – Craft Fair and
C.R.C. Antella, via di Pulicciano 53/b,        Jeans!                                           8.45, lasts 7 hours                              Entertainment
Bagno a Ripoli, tel. 055-210804, Dec 3         The origins, the American legend and             All year on Mon and Sat, Resco Travel tel.       Piazza Matteotti, Greve in Chianti, Sat only
Caterina e l’Orchessa                          made in Italy                                    055.868009.                                      Arte, Mestieri e Tradizione
Puppet show for children aged 4-10             Museo del Tessuto, via Santa Chiara              On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi            Local craft (in Palazzo Novelluci, via
Teatro Cantiere Florida, via Pisana 111r,      24, Prato, tel. 0574.611503, www.                Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s     Cairoli 25) and food products (in Palazzo
tel. 055.573857,, Dec 4,, until Dec 13, 10-18,         fresco in Santo Stefano Cathedral, Prato.        Banci Buonamici, via Ricasoli)
16.30, €5/7                                    Sat 10-14, Sun 16-19, Tues closed                (max 12 persons)                                 Prato, tel. 0574.578518, Dec 10-18, Mon-
Misteriosa avventura al Fantabosco             The Madonnas of Chianti: journeys of             Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del          Fri 15-19, Sat-Sun 10-12.30, 15-19.30
Based on the TV show for children
                                               art, history and devotion
                                               Museo di arte sacra, Greve in Chianti, tel.
                                                                                                Duomo, Prato, tel. 0574.24112, www.
                                                                                      , by reservation only,
                                                                                                                                                 n MUSIC & CONCERTS
Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel.           055.8545215, www.comune.greve-in-                until December 31, Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17,        Black Dawn, metal
055.210804 and Box Office network,    , until Dec 8                        Sun at 10, 11, €8                                Officina Giovani - Cantieri Ex Macelli,, Dec 8, 15.00 and 18.30,                                                                                                         piazza Macelli 4, Prato, tel. 0574.616753,
                                               The Madonnas of Chianti: journeys of             Abbey of San Salvatore and San         , Dec 2, 21.30, free
€16.50/13.50                                   art, history and devotion                        Lorenzo a Settimo
Robin Hood nel castello di Nottingham          Museo della Basilica di S. Maria,                Scandicci, until December 30, Wed 10-12,         Subsonica “Be Human Club Tour”
Circolo M.C.L. Nuove Torri, Loc.               Impruneta, tel. 055.2036426, www.                Sun 15.30-18                                     Cencio’s Club, via Strobino 1, Prato, tel.
San Donnino, Campi Bisenzio, tel.    , until Dec 8                                                                055.2469353/210804, Dec 2
                                                                                                The Ceramics of Montelupo
055.8959318, Dec 11, 17.00                     The Madonnas of Chianti: journeys of             Free guided visits to the Archaeology and        Norge “Tribute to Led Zeppelin”
Il brutto anatroccolo                          art, history and devotion                        Ceramics Museum and participation in the         Ministry, via Pulicciano 53, c/o C.R.C.
Piccolo Teatro di Rufina, piazza Umberto        Museo di arte sacra, Tavernelle Val di           workshops                                        Antella, Bagno a Ripoli, tel. 338.6314824,
I 46, Rufina, tel. 055.8396533, Dec 14,         Pesa, tel. 055.8050833, www.comune.              Museo archeologico e della ceramica,             Dec 3, 22.00
10.00                                , until Dec 8         Montelupo Fiorentino, tel. 0571.518993,          Tribute to De Andrè
                                               “Works and Dazs in Marradi” by                   until December, Thur, 10-14                      Piccolo Teatro di Rufina, Umberto I
OUT OF TOWN                                    Lanfranco Raparo                                 On the Tracks of Matilde di Canossa              46, Rufina, tel. 055.8396177 Dec 3, 21.15
                                               Paintings                                        From Prato to Fossato: food and wine             L. Iosco, clarinet & S. Danti, piano
n CINEMA                                       Centro Studi Dino Campana, Marradi, tel.
                                                                                                tasting, entertainment
                                                                                                Info and booking 335.5312981 or
                                                                                                                                                 Sala Consiliare del Comune, Scandicci, tel.
Tutti dentro! Si gira un film alla Perla!                                                                                                         055.256475, Dec 4, 11.00
                                               until December 23                                0574.562076                                      Jazz@officina: Mr Banana & The
Always dreamt of acting in a movie? La
Perla cinema will be shooting a film and is     Paul Jenkins’ Works 1954-2003
                                               Galleria Open Art, viale della Repubblica
                                                                                                n MARKETS & FESTIVALS                            Blobbers
                                                                                                                                                 Officina Giovani - Cantieri Ex Macelli,
looking for actors and extras
La Perla, via dei Neri, Empoli, info and       24, Prato, tel. 0574 538003, until January            Week-end of November 19-20                  piazza Macelli 4, Prato, tel. 0574.616753,
registration on 347.9808645 and www.           31, 10.30–12.30, 16–20, Mon, Sun                 Regala un regalo                       , Dec 5, 21.30, free, Dec 14-15, 18.00                   closed.                                          Charity market. Benefits will go to Calcit        Ensemble Nuovo Contrappunto
                                               Leonetto Tintori and the Vainella School         (League against Tumours of Chianti
n DANCE                                        Museo di Pittura Murale, piazza S.               Fiorentino)
                                                                                                                                                 Teatro Shalom, via Busoni 24, Empoli, tel.
                                                                                                                                                 0571.711122,, Dec
Danze d’Inverno (Winter Dances):               Domenico, Prato, tel. 0574.440501, until         Circolo La Rinascente, Cascine del Riccio,       7, 21.00
Tras-Figura & Amnios                           March 4, €3                                      tel. 055.6390222, Dec 8, 9-18                    S. Lanzi, piano
Teatro della Limonaia, via Gramsci 426,        Guidi Dolci a Prato: tra mestiere e              Extra Virgin Oil Fair of Reggello and
Sesto Fiorentino, tel. 055.440852, www.                                                                                                          Music by Chopin, Liszt and Debussy
                                               poesia                                           Pratomagno                                       Teatro Magnolfi, via Gobetti 79, Prato, tel., Dec 2, 21.00,          Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, del             Olive oil and wine tasting, folk shows,
€10/12                                                                                                                                           0574.615012, Dec 9, 21.00, free
                                               Duomo 49, Prato, tel. 0574.29339, until          historical parade and live nativity on Dec 8     U. Pagliai, narrator & G.Giacomelli,
Kinkaleri company “Pool”                       Jan 8                                            from 15.00
Teatro Studio, via Doninzetti 58, Scandicci,                                                                                                     organ
                                               Il maialino fortunato... Cartoline               Nuovo Palazzetto dello Sport, Reggello,          Readings and music by Jesuit authors
tel. 055.757348, www.scandiccicultura.         augurali natalizie della Famiglia      , Dec 3, 4 and 8
org/teatro, Dec 2-8, 21.15 except Mon                                                                                                            from the Baroque period
                                               Falorni                                          Crafts, Antique and Second-Hand Market           Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, del
Danze d’Inverno (Winter Dances):               Exhibit of some 1000 Christmas cards             Via Montebuoni, Impruneta, Sat only              Duomo, Prato, tel. 0574.615012, Dec 12,
Black Box                                      featuring little pigs, following an early 20th   Prim’Olio 2005                                   21.15, free
Teatro della Limonaia, via Gramsci 426,        century tradition popular in Europe              Exhibit and fair of extra virgin olive oil and
Sesto Fiorentino, tel. 055.440852, www.                                                                                                          Noa in Trio & Solis String Quartet
                                               Logge di Piazza Matteotti & wine cellars,        typical products from the Bagno a Ripoli hills   Teatro Politeama Pratese, via Garibaldi, Dec 3, 21.00, €10/12   Greve in Chianti, tel. 055.8546404, www.         Antico Spedale del Bigallo, Bagno a Ripoli,      33-35, Prato, tel. 0574.603758, www.
Pressioni - Passo continuo - Cantata , until Jan 29                       info 055.63901, www.comune.bagno-a-    , Dec 14, 21.00,
Teatro Niccolini di San Casciano, via Roma     Gemine Muse 2005 – Young Artists in    , Sat 15-19 and Sun 10-19             €15
47, San Casciano, tel. 055.8290146,            Europe’s Museums                                 Collectors’ Market, Dec 3                                                                                                                    “Deh, vieni, non tardar”
                                               Works by Giovanni Ozzola and Emanuele            Scarperia, Sun only, 7.30-19.30                  Words and music around Mozart
Danze d’Inverno (Winter Dances):               Becchi                                                                                            Teatro Magnolfi, via Gobetti 79, Prato, tel.
                                               Museo di Pittura Murale, piazza S.               Antique Market
Wolves Tracking - Orbata                                                                        City center, Sesto Fiorentino, Sun all day       0574.615012, Dec 15, 21.00, free
Teatro Studio, via Doninzetti 58, Scandicci,   Domenico, Prato, tel. 0574.440501, until
tel. 055.757348, www.scandiccicultura.         Feb 26                                           Artigianando
org/teatro, Dec 9, 21.00                       The Origins of Mankind – Italian                 Craft and second-hand market with music
                                               discoveries in Dancalia (Eritrea)                and flag parade
Danze d’Inverno (Winter Dances):Viso                                                            Viale Bruno Buozzi, Fucecchio, www.
Mon Amour                                      Museo di Fucecchio - Palazzo Corsini,
                                               piazza Vittorio Veneto 27, Fucecchio, tel., Dec 8
Teatro Studio, via Doninzetti 58, Scandicci,
tel. 055.757348, www.scandiccicultura.         0571.20349, until Jan 8                          Antique and Second-Hand Market
org/teatro, Dec 10, 21.00                      The Magical Box and the Silence of Things Buondelmonti, Impruneta, Dec 8, 8-19
Danze d’Inverno (Winter Dances):               200 paintings by Marcello Bertini                Household Items and Art Fair
Asterisk - Audience With Solo A                Villa Rucellai, Campi Bisenzio, tel.             Historical Center, Lastra a Signa, Dec 8
Fiction Of Democracy                           055.89591, from Dec 3 to Jan 22                  Luci di Natale
Teatro Studio, via Doninzetti 58, Scandicci,   100 Artworks for Sri Lanka                       Shows, music, market and live nativity
tel. 055.757348, www.scandiccicultura.         100 works have been donated by artists           Piazza Umberto I & Piazza Aldo Moro,
org/teatro, Dec 11, 21.00                      and will be sold during the exhibition           Rufina, tel. 0558396528-9, from Dec 8 to
“Romeo and Juliet” by the Maggio               to raise funds for the reconstruction of         Jan 6
Danza company                                  a village in Sri Lanka destroyed by last
Teatro Niccolini di San Casciano, via Roma     year’s Tsunami                                        Week-end of November 10-11
47, San Casciano, tel. 055.8290146,            Antiche Stanze di Santa Caterina,                Antichi Sapori di Toscana, Dec 14                 via Dolce dei Mazzamuti 1, Prato, tel.           Series of events linked to slow food
                                               0574.33240, from Dec 10 to Jan 6, 10-13          and local products: fair, tasting dinners,          �����������������������������
n EXHIBITS                                     & 15-18, closed Tue and Sun                      lectures, etc
Arte in maremma nella prima meta’              Spread in Prato, 4th edition                     Historical center and Sant’Antonio                    �������������������������������
del novecento                                  Renowned contemporary photography                Hospital, Lastra a Signa, www.slowscan.
Different palaces and museums in               exhibition                                       it, Dec 8-11                                              ��������������������
Grosseto, November 26-January 29, info         Dryphoto, via Pugliesi 23, Prato, tel.           Sagra dei necci e delle caldarroste                        ���������������������
tel. tel.0577.233536, 10-13, 15-18, Mon        0574.604939,, from Dec           Chestnut sweets and roasted chestnuts
closed, €2/4                                   10 to Jan 15                                                                                                 �������������������
                                                                                                Ponte a Cappiano, Fucecchio, Sat only
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                


 Foraging for Fashion Finds
 Mission: Markets!                                   By Justina Blakeney

                                                                                    bashful! After all, in clothing, the       Resina, just outside Naples. It’s on
                                                                                    MOST IMPORTANT THING IS                    every day, and it’s best to get there
                                                                                    FIT!! (You may have found the most         early. People say to watch out for
                                                                                    gorgeous vintage Lanvin gown, but          pickpockets and rip-offs, but I have
                                                                                    if it doesn’t fit well, it will end up in   never had any problems.
                                                                                    that CARITAS pile next season!)                Next I like the Mercato di Senega-
                                                                                        My favourite thing to shop for         lia (Saturdays), and the San Donato
                                                                                    at flea markets, however, is acces-         Market (Sundays), both in Milan
                                                                                    sories. I have found Pucci scarves,        - (do watch your pockets at these
                                                                                    amazing vintage leather purses,            two, though). And the market that
                                                                                    funky vintage Chanel sunglasses,           stirs up Bologna every Friday and
                                                                                    really fun jewellery, and nice ethnic      Saturday is dear to my heart. For
                                                                                    pieces too. The key with accessories       everything from vintage Converse
                                                                                    is to create accents. I like dressing      to Roberta di Camerino purses, I
                                                                                    in simple, comfy clothes and con-          can always seem to find just what
                                                                                    trasting them with chunky ethnic or        I’m looking for, and it’s just an hour
                                                                                    vintage costume jewellery, a huge          on the train from Florence.
                                                                                    leather purse or even a stylish tote           Locally, my favourite market is
                                                                                    and a perfect hat or belt. Accessories     the one that occurs on the second
                                                                                    are easier to find at flea markets, like     Sunday of the month in Piazza
                                                                                    a swirling vintage silk scarf. To this     Santo Spirito. I rarely find serious
                                                                                    day, I don’t understand why anyone         treasures there anymore, but it’s
                                                                                    would ever buy a new scarf.                such a good time, with all the bustle
                                                                                        So now that you know how to            of families, food, dogs, sunbathers,
                                                                                    shop for fashion at markets, the           and travellers. Markets, after all, are
                                                                                    next step is to know where. The best       meant to be fun, but if you’re lucky,
                                                                                    flea market in Italy is the market in       they can also be Fashion!
                                               Illustrations by Ellen Schultz

H                                                                                       ����������������������������������
         ave you ever complimented        be it colour, print, shape, or fabric.
         a friend on a killer hat or a    If you see hanging items at mar-
         stunning scarf only for them     kets, they probably cost more than
to reply, bragging, “Cute, huh? I         the clothes piled up on the tables.
got it at the market on Sunday for        But that’s okay!! Look through the
ONLY two euros!” Have you ever
noticed that the most gorgeous gar-
                                          hanging clothes too, which brings
                                          us to the fourth rule: Don’t be too                             ��������������������
ment gems are either Via Tornabuoni       cheap when shopping markets for
splurges or flea market finds? Well,
I for one have been trained to find
the two-euro treasures, and now,
                                          fashion. People always come to
                                          markets looking for a good bargain,
                                          but it is also easy to lose one’s sense
lucky reader, I intend on reveal-         of reality. I know, when everything
ing some tricks of the trade to help      else costs 5 euros, all of the sudden
you find beautiful things at markets,      70 euros for a coat starts to sound
things that people will compliment        pricey, but let’s put this into per-
you on!                                   spective, folks. It would be difficult
   So the first and most important         (if not impossible) to find a cute
rule is to know your own taste.           coat at that price ANYWHERE in
Sounds obvious, but markets are           Florence...and this one is one of a
fun because they offer so many dif-       kind!
ferent choices; it’s easy to buy things       Fifth rule: Always run a quality
at the markets you never wear, and        check! Look for any stains, holes,
then find them seasons later in the        moth signs, or discolorations. Next,
pile for CARITAS (charity). Well,         check the tag. Does it look old? Does
at least you only paid two euros for      it have groovy writing in it? Do you
them!                                     recognise the brand name? In my
   The second rule of thumb is that       opinion, the older the garment the
if you’re serious about the market,       better. Then, see if there is any hand
get there when they get there...          stitching on the pieces; hand stitch-
even around 7 or 8 in the morning.
(You’ll find fashionistas, buyers, and
                                          ing is sumptuous because it means
                                          the garment is handmade, or very
shop-owners getting the first choice       old. If the item passes quality con-
   Third rule: Do not be afraid to get
                                          trol, then it’s time for: Rule number
                                          six - try the clothing on! It is tempt-
your hands dirty. If you are a germo-     ing to just buy clothes at the mar-
phobe, digging through used cloth-        ket without trying them on. After
ing is not for you - go back to Via       all, there are no changing rooms                               �������������������������������
Tornabuoni, where all the clothes         and the clothing is so cheap, but I
are clean and ironed. If you aren’t       would highly recommend finding a                                ����������������������������
afraid of the trenches, start digging,    little buco (hole) to try the clothing
be thorough, pull out the pieces that     on, or, if worst comes to worst, try                            ���������������������������
catch your eye for whatever reason,       them over your clothes. Don’t be
                                                                                                                                                                               15                                                                                                                                      Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                        UP CLOSE & PERSONAL
                                                                                           energy, passion, and a clear vision of         TF: And your favourite Italian dish?
                                                                                           what is possible and feasible.                 JM: Spaghetti ai carciofi (Garga); tuna

    “ Don’t                                                                                TF: What is your company’s great-
                                                                                           est challenge?
                                                                                                                                          tartar (Fuor d’Acqua).

                                                                                                                                          TF: Where do you like to go on

      expect                                                                               JM: We are working for a synthesis of
                                                                                           great cultures: English, Italian, Ameri-
                                                                                           can. Our goal is to apply Italian ingenu-
                                                                                                                                          JM: The seaside, Bolgheri, and my wine
                                                                                                                                          estate resort (Tenuta Belguardo).

                                                                                           ity, creativity, and sense of beauty and
                                                                                           design (values, which up to now have           TF: Where would you take a for-
                                                                                           only been produced on a small scale),          eign guest?

      to take the
                                                                                           to more conventional and large-scale
                                                                                           projects.                                      For me, the most interesting experi-
                                                                                                                                          ence is walking along the Corridoio
                                                                                           TF: What is your greatest quality?             Vasariano, and visiting San Lorenzo,

      first step.”                              Jacopo Mazzei

                                              Serravalle Scrivia (AL), which opened in
                                                                                           JM: First of all, I don’t think I’m great at
                                                                                           anything. But I trust in tradition and the
                                                                                           strength of culture, and I have a very
                                                                                                                                          the biblioteca Laurenziana, and the
                                                                                                                                          Cappelle Medicee.
                                                                                                                                          TF: What misconceptions do
        Interview with:                       the year 2000, continues to be Europe’s
                                              largest designer outlet. Fingen has other
                                                                                           open mind as to how they can be used
                                                                                           successfully in the world.
                                                                                                                                          Americans/English speakers have
                                                                                                                                          about Italians?
        Jacopo Mazzei                         outlets in Rome at Castel Romano, and
                                              a third will be opening in Barberino next    TF: What do you love about
                                                                                                                                          JM: They feel we are still living in the
                                                                                                                                          Renaissance times, and that we can’t
                                              March. A fourth will soon be built in        Florence?                                      compete with the modern world.
        by Nita Tucker and Giovanni Giusti    Naples.                                      JM: It’s the perfect combination of his-
                                                                                           tory, landscaping, and environment             TF: What misconceptions do Ital-
                                              The Florentine: As a business-               designed by man.                               ians have about Americans/Eng-
                                              man, what do you think is the                                                               lish speakers?

       s a Marchese, Jacopo Mazzei is         strength of the Florentine and               TF: What don’t you like about                  JM: We underestimate their culture; we
       part of the Florentine aristocracy.    Tuscan economy?                              Florence?                                      think they are not very aware of history,
       He is a member of a Florentine         Jacopo Mazzei: We are highly creative,       JM: The arrogance and sense of isola-          or that they limit their focus to things
noble family, patrizi fiorentini, with         and we are used to working and devel-        tion, our habit of thinking that we are        related to business.
roots in the arts and in the mercantile       oping our businesses in harmony with         “the centre of the world.” Our inability to
industries. His ancestors, involved in        the land. Other strong points are food,      more effectively protect the resources         TF: Do you have any advice for
business, politics, and civil services, are   design, fashion, and jewellery. We are       we have. Our lack of sociability and our       foreign residents in Florence?
known for having been ministers to the        also strong in finance and banking by         individualism.                                 JM: Don’t expect the Florentines to take
Medici. The Mazzei family has owned a         tradition.
vineyard estate in Chianti since 1435.                                                                                                    the first step. They may seem snob-
   Jacopo Mazzei is the CEO of Fingen                                                      TF: What do you miss about                     bish, but they are just shy. If you take
                                              TF: What’s the main problem for              Florence when you are away?                    the time to keep knocking on the door,
RE, one of the largest real estate
companies in Italy. Fingen is currently       business in Florence?                        JM: The feeling that the city’s the per-       you will find the heart and the warmth of
working towards the creation of a 5-star      JM: We are not used to doing business        fect size for living in.                       the Florentines. The person who keeps
hotel, The Four Seasons, in the centre        on a large scale, nor are we used to                                                        insisting will find a home in Florence,
of Florence and a clubhouse in Palazzo        transforming successful local opera-         TF: Where do you most enjoy get-               and the one who doesn’t, will not.
Corsi Tornabuoni (a historical building       tions into worldwide businesses. We          ting a cappuccino?
that once belonged to the Medici              don’t think that it can work in the world.                                                  TF: What “gift” has Florence
                                                                                           JM: Rivoire, inside though.
family). Other projects include a new ski     For instance, here in Florence, every                                                       given you?
resort and residence in the Apennines         restaurant is a single entity; each place
(Val di Luce) close to Abetone. This                                                       TF: An aperitivo?                              JM: Experiencing Florence makes you
                                              is unique. In New York, restaurants                                                         a different person because you under-
undertaking is considered the most            multiply their model. The main limitation    JM: Procacci, the wine bar in via Torna-
important project currently being carried                                                  buoni (very good panini tartufati, the         stand what it means to have a high-
                                              of the Italian way of thinking is that we                                                   quality standard of living.
out in the Apennine region.                   think we are unique and unrepeatable.        best in Florence).
   Famous for adopting the American
retail model and redesigning it with                                                       TF: Your favourite place to go for             TF: Besides Florence, where else
                                              TF: How would you define                                                                     would you like to live?
an Italian concept in mind, Mazzei is                                                      dinner?
dedicated to achieving a successful
                                              JM: It is something that you have in         JM: Fuor d’Acqua, Garga, Sostanza              JM: New York for business and relation-
blend of different cultures. The main
part of his retail operations business is     your own nature, in your history and         (detto Il Troia).                              ships; Paris for culture and city style.
a joint venture with an American group        tradition. I’m timid but open to people
called McArthur Glen and with British         and making them feel that I can lead         TF: What’s your preferred wine?                TF: What’s your favourite idiom?
investors (the Richardson family).            them to achieve great results. And then,     JM: Wine from Tenuta Belguardo.                JM: Maremma!

                                                    SCULPTURES IN A WOODLAND
                                                      Just an hour’s drive from Florence and you’ll be
                                                  surrounded by natural beauty and contemporary art.
                                                 The Chianti Sculpture Park which was opened one year
                                                     ago is the ideal venue for family and school trips.
                                                            “The highlight of our visit to Tuscany”                                         address: La Fornace 48/49
                                                                  is what most visitors say.                                              53010 Pievasciata (Siena) Italy
                                                    To find out more about the Park and for directions                                      phone: (0039) 0577 357151
                                                                         please click                                                         fax (0039) 0577 357149
                                                                                                                                            GPS address: lat. 11°22' 53''
                                                    Opposite the Park you’ll find the largest art gallery in Italy,                              long. 43° 23' 36''
   "Energy" by K. Varotsos, Greece                          specialised in contemporary sculptures.
16                                                                                        Life in Italy
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                                             
                                                                      All of the articles found in the following pages are written by independent collaborators. The Florentine seeks to publish

  Culture & CUSTOMS
                                                                      stories that are interesting, entertaining, and useful to all of our readers. If and when a writer expresses opinions within his
                                                                      or her work those opinions should be considered to be those of the writer and not necessarily those of the publishers of this
                                                                      newspaper. If you wish to submit articles for consideration please contact us at

ITALIAN VOICES: A Window on Language and
Customs in Italy...“Arriviamo al Punto”                                                                               by Linda Falcone
English speakers follow a straight to be laid out in the same order.
line; Italians talk in circles. If you Italians, on the other hand, can
engage in intercultural communica- leave off the subject or choose to
tion on a daily basis, this is some- start from either side of the sen-
thing you probably already know, tence. Affirmations become ques-
but possibly have never thought tions just by the lilt of the voice. In
about. So let’s think about it now, Italian, there are at least four ways
shall we?                                              to say something, just
I’ll start by saying                                   by modifying word
that Italians are gen-        Try to make an Italian   order. In short, Ital-
erally recognized as           obediently arrivare     ian easily lends itself
entertaining speakers.                                 to circular thought.
Their enthusiasm is            al punto and you        If you don’t believe
contagious, and their          will come to the        me, think about how
conviction is constant.                                English       speakers
And yet, as my friend
                               same conclusion I’ve    tend to organize their
Phyllis says, “Some-           reached after years     thoughts. Have you
times you can listen to        of struggle. You’ll     ever met an English
an Italian involved in                                 speaker who could
dynamic discourse and          discover that there are not produce an out-
find yourself wonder-           two types of speakers   line on demand? It’s
ing just where they are                                all about A, B, C, and
going with it. ‘Arrivi-
                               in the world: linear    1,2,3. A topic sen-
amo al punto,’ you             speakers and circular   tence and three main
want to say in your            speakers.               ideas. No delicious                         losophy born of the Renaissance,                    To succeed in grammar, you need
diplomatic      English-                               digression, no tempt-                       during which the goal of education                  to have a basis in mathematical
speaking way, ‘let’s just                              ing tangents. None of                       was to cultivate genius. Leonardo                   principles. To excel in the figura-
get to the point!’”                                    the redundancy and                          was an artist, scientist, and engi-                 tive arts, a knowledge of anatomy is
  Hah! Easier said than done, my freedom abundant in the Latin lan-                                neer. Michelangelo was a sculptor,                  essential. This means that the grad-
friend, easier said than done. Try to guages.                                                      painter, and architect. Lorenzo dei                 ing process translates into, “If you
make an Italian obediently arrivare Italians have many talents, but                                Medici was a politician, patron, and                lower the math grade, I’ll raise the
al punto and you will come to the most cannot produce an outline                                   poet. To an Italian that still means                student’s grade in history.” The goal
same conclusion I’ve reached after when asked. In Italy, knowledge is                              something.                                          is to arrive at a well-rounded score
years of struggle. You’ll discover a wheel, a series of spokes radiat-                               The circular model of knowledge                   that allows the student to achieve a
that there are two types of speak- ing from a central nucleus. You start                           still profoundly influences Ital-                    passing mark in every subject.
ers in the world: linear speakers and from the main point and take one of                          ian education today. At the end of                  So, when your favorite Italian
circular speakers. Linear speakers a thousand radii. Therefore, in Ital-                           each term, teachers get together in                 speaker has lost you entirely and
look for the shortest distance from ian, digressions are not true digres-                          a meeting called gli scrutini which                 has gone off on something you per-
point A to point B. What do I want sions, and tangents are considered                              comes from the root word “scruti-                   ceive as completely unrelated to her
to express and what is the shortest an integral part of what English                               nize.” Giving grades is a negotiation               original punto, remember that in
way to get there? Clarity. Precision. speakers would call “the point.”                             process that looks a bit like bar-                  Italy, seemingly unrelated topics are
Well-clipped elegance. That’s what So next time you are caught in a                                tering. The math teacher has a say                  very relevant to each other. So, just
the Linears want in a language. And whirlwind of Italian verbosity and                             over the English grade. The science                 relax and let them lead you through
English lends itself to this expecta- find yourself hoping in vain that                             professor has to approve the score                  the labyrinth. You’re better off not
tion quite nicely. In English, every your amico will arrivare al punto,                            awarded in art history. To the lin-                 resisting it. And although it’s true
sentence comes out the same way, as there’s something you need to                                  ear-minded, it may seem unfair, but                 that the shortest way from A to B is
in subject first, then verb, and finally remember: Italians have been edu-                           according to the Italian perspective,               a straight line, while living in Italy
object. Speaking English is like link- cated in a school system that favors                        it is completely logical. After all,                never underestimate the power of
ing wooden blocks that always have interdisciplinary thought. It’s a phi-                          can art be divorced from science?                   the circle.

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                                                                            Life in Italy                                                                                  17                                                                                                                               Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                             Culture & CUSTOMS
Married to the Italian: The Sunday Lunch Ambush
By Fred Birkhimer                          photo by Cesare Moncelli

“     o, what should I get at the                                                                                                 ing girth, the answer is “poor thing,
      market for lunch tomorrow?”                                                                                                 from the way he eats, can’t you see
      My blood turns to ice.                                                                                                      he’s hungry?”)
    This seemingly innocent ques-                                                                                                     There’s a final complication. My
tion, when asked by one’s Italian                                                                                                 mother-in-law always cooks me the
mother-in-law, can shatter the peace                                                                                              same thing. Even if everybody else
and quiet of your Saturday morning                                                                                                gets chicken this Sunday, she has to
like a drive-by shooting. Tomorrow,                                                                                               make me a steak. Why? Because,
some friends and family are coming                                                                                                she’s convinced, I like steak. Liking
over for Sunday Lunch.                                                                                                            something, for her, means liking it
    Trapped in this conversation                                                                                                  enough to eat it every Sunday for
by my wife and her mother, I con-                                                                                                 five years, no matter what. Where
sider gnawing off my arm to escape.                                                                                               she gets these ideas, nobody knows.
But it’s no use; lunch is a mere 24       invite more people” syndrome (an             Saying no to more food, as per             She went for years without even
hours away (less, if you consider         offshoot of the “farmer’s wife” syn-      the popular stereotype, is absolutely         mentioning zucchini, convinced
that they’ll probably start cooking       drome—making enough food to               out of the question. After a plentiful        that I didn’t like them.
at about 6.30 am), and we have to         feed the whole farm). It works like       antipasto, two first courses, baked                So, as I steel myself for tomor-
decide what to make. What appears         this: 1. we decide on 4 to 6 people       chicken, and roast potatoes, every            row’s Sunday Lunch ritual, with
to be a kind attempt to include me in     to invite; 2. we make enough food         Sunday I have to raise my voice               its cheerful chaos of questions and
the weekly ritual, though, is in real-    for 50; 3. we have too much food;         above the din with a firm “NO!” to a           answers and yelling and shouting
ity a key front in the culture wars.      4. we have to invite more people. A       suggested further kilo of roast meat.         and gesturing and people coming
    In Sunday Lunch, Italians find         variation on this theme is, “About        When my wife comes to my rescue—              and going and enough food to feed a
(or at least search for) tradition and    ten people are going to stop by for       “Mom, are you crazy?! He’s eaten              small nation, I have to face the facts:
a sense of harmony. In the social         coffee after lunch, so we have to get     enough for a buffalo!!”—we are met            we don’t eat like this back home.
order, this is visible when friends       more dessert.”                            with plaintive mother-in-law logic:               “I bet you guys don’t eat like this
and family come together; but har-            Now I have to actually sit at the     “Poor thing, let him eat, can’t you           in America, huh!” (nudge nudge,
mony and tradition exist in the           table and eat. As I’m sure you can        see he’s hungry?” (This applies to            wink wink).
choice of food as well. Notice how        imagine, this is the most challeng-       the cat, too, by the way; when I                  Yeah, once a year. We call it
certain main courses (steak, baked        ing phase. The most common prob-          politely mention his ever-expand-             Thanksgiving.
chicken) are traditionally accompa-       lem areas for non-Italians are likely
nied by certain side dishes (salad,       to be: a) finding something to talk
roast potatoes). So here I run the        about, and b) getting out of talking
risk of saying something really stu-      about something.
pid, like “How about some green               Finding something to talk about
beans with the steak?”                    is a euphemism for “elbowing your
    In fact, for this particular meal,    way into a conversation topic that
Italians seem to have a strange aver-     seems intentionally chosen to
sion to green. While they generally       exclude you” (old school friends,                                                  �����������������������������������������������
eat a fair amount of vegetables, any-     old times, etc).                                                                            ������������������������
thing vaguely green is immediately            Getting out of talking about
stricken from the list of possibilities   something, on the other hand,
for the Sunday Lunch menu.                means “defending your country from
    “What about some vegetables to        mindless stereotypes.” In my case
go with the pasta, rice, and bread?”      the country is America, so there’s
I timidly suggest.                        plenty to discuss. Leaving aside the
    “We’re having potatoes with the       obvious remarks about presidents
chicken.”                                 and wars, one of the most common
    Another     mysterious     Sunday     is, “I bet you guys don’t eat like this
Lunch phenomenon is the “let’s            in America, huh!” Argh.

                                                                                       Workshop, Show Rooms and classes
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18                                                                           Life in Italy
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                               

  Travel& LEISURE
An Insider’s Tuscany
Rooms with a View: a Pigeon’s Spit from Ponte Vecchio
By Nicky Swallow

            ore than 7 million tourists pile into                                                                coming with a huge fireplace, squashy sofas and
            Florence each year, so it stands to rea-                                   chairs, an open kitchen area where breakfast is
            son that this small city suffers from seri-                                                          prepared, and a dining area. Upstairs, the seven
ous overcrowding. Add severe traffic problems                                                                     bedrooms all have pretty fabrics and patchwork
and the resulting levels of noise and pollution,                                                                 quilts, and while the public areas have terracotta
                                                                                                                 flagstones, the bedrooms all have beautiful chest-
and it’s not surprising that many visitors opt for
                                                                                                                 nut wood floors, made by Stefano himself (who
accommodation that is situated outside the city
                                                                                                                 also made the doors and some of the furniture).
centre. Luckily, Florence and its environs are
                                                                                                                 Mountain bikes are supplied and there are won-
well equipped with hotels and guesthouses that
                                                                                                                 derful hiking trails nearby.
allow you to enjoy the best of both worlds. Here
                                                                                                                    Lying some 17 kilometres southwest of Flor-
are four places to stay where you can enjoy fresh
                                                                                                                 ence and the family home of one of the own-
air, rural landscapes, and the relaxed ambiance
                                                                                                                 ers until quite recently, Il Poggiale is an elegant,
of a country setting; two are within a pigeon’s
                                                                                                                 pale salmon-coloured villa dating from the six-
spit of the Ponte Vecchio. While each is very dif-
                                                                                                                 teenth century. At the front of the villa, a gra-
ferent from the next, they have one characteristic                                                               cious Renaissance loggia overlooks an expanse
in common: none of them feel like a hotel. You                                                                   of green lawn protected by ancient cypress trees.
will be treated as if you were guests in a private                                                               On arrival, guests are shown into an elegant
home. So much so, in fact, that only the bill at                                                                 salon dominated by a vast chandelier; family por-
the end of your stay will remind you otherwise.                                                                  traits hang on the walls and soothing classical
   The hills just to the south of Florence are            southward-facing grounds (that include a pool),        music plays in the background. Drinks are laid
full of grand and beautiful villas, many of them          for some years, but only in the summer of 2000         out on a table, and guests can sign a chit and help
erstwhile summer residences of wealthy Floren-            did the family open up their converted outbuild-       themselves. The 21 bedrooms and 3 apartments
tine families. Fifteenth century Villa Poggio San         ings to guests.                                        are beautifully furnished and romantically deco-
Felice is such a house; perched on a little poggio,          The heart of the house is the large, bright and     rated (several have four posters) in dusty blues
or hill, it could be in the heart of Chianti but is, in   sunny living/breakfast room with its sofas and         and pinks with filmy white curtains and colour-
fact, only ten minutes from the city centre. Set in       armchairs, open fire and honesty bar. Bedrooms,         ful bedspreads and rugs. Bathrooms are gorgeous
a lovely garden, the mellow old villa was bought          while varying in shape and size, are all decorated     too; one has floor-to-ceiling frescoes and an old
by a Swiss hotel magnate in the early nineteenth          along the same tasteful, classical lines with styl-    claw-foot bath. Outside, a long terrace runs along
century and, run by his descendants, is today an          ish country fabrics, padded headboards, pristine       the west wall of the villa and overlooks the pool;
elegant but unstuffy guesthouse. Inside, cheerful         white paintwork, and dark parquet floors. The           breakfast is served here in summer, but it is also
fabrics and interesting colours, blending nicely          gleaming white bathrooms have large walk-in            a glorious spot from which to enjoy spectacular
with family antiques and pictures, give a young           showers and double basins. Electric kettles and        sunsets.
feel to the place. The day starts in the long, high-      coffee, as well as selection of wines, are supplied
ceilinged breakfast room where French win-                in each room. The Bulleris are enthusiastic hosts
dows open onto the garden. The five spacious               and will arrange wine tasting tours, golf games,
bedrooms – all furnished with antiques – lead             trips to nearby outlet stores, or even cookery les-      Nicky Swallow is an editor of Charming
off a landing on the first floor. Two have work-            sons in Signora Bulleri’s own kitchen.                   Small Hotel Guides: Tuscany & Umbria
ing fireplaces while the Camera dei Nonni has a               You can also learn how to cook the Tuscan way         (pub Duncan Petersen). She has lived and
big terrace overlooking the city. There is a daily        at Casa Palmira, the most rustic of this selection.      worked in Florence for more than twenty
shuttle service to and from the centre of town,           Leaving Florence to the north, the old road to
but you may be tempted to stay up in the hills,                                                                    years and is a regular contributor to guide
                                                          Faenza winds up through olive groves and cypress
reading under the partially arched loggia or, in          trees before reaching the beautiful and relatively       books and magazines in both Britain and
cooler weather, in the cosy sitting room. There’s         unknown area of Mugello. Casa Palmira, set just          the US. The restaurants, hotels and other
a small gym too and a pool for summer dips.               off this road, about 16 kilometres from the city, is     events and itineraries which will regularly
   Just to the east of here lies the località of          a beautifully renovated barn attached to a stone         appear in her column for The Florentine, “An
Marignolle, again, set in a landscape that belies         farmhouse with Mediaeval origins; Stefano and            Insider’s Tuscany” are a selection of personal
the fact that the chaotic city centre lies only a         Assunta, the warm and welcoming hosts, did               favourites.
few kilometres away. The Bulleri family has               much of the restoration work themselves. The
lived in the restored farmhouse, set on rambling,         ground floor sitting room is spacious and wel-

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                                                                           Life in Italy                                                                         19                                                                                                                      Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                                                The & ARTS

Enamoured Expatriates of Florence:                                                                                                     Over the next few
                                                                                                                                       issues, Emiko will
Part VI: Bernard Berenson                                                                                                              be covering other
                                                                                                                                       famous expatriates
                                                                                                                                       who have made
                                                                                                       Bernard Berenson
By Emiko Davies                                                                                                                        Florence/Tuscany
                                                                                                                                       their home, including
                                                                                                                                       Tchaikovsky, Bernard
                                                                                                                                       Berenson, and
                                                                                                                                       Shelley. Originally

         ne of the better known expa-                                                                                                  from Australia,
         triates who made Florence                                                                                                     Emiko has a degree
         his home, at least in the circle                                                                                              in fine art and has
of art historians and American resi-                                                                                                   herself been an expat
dents, was Bernard Berenson (1865-                                                                                                     in three continents
1959), the eminent art connoisseur                                                                                                     for more than half of
and collector, author of Florentine                                                                                                    her life.
Painters of the Renaissance (1896).
But like many celebrated people,
there are two versions of the charac-
ter and the story: one is the celebrity
version, the other is the tarnished,
notorious version… What Berenson            a Titian or an El Greco depended       bad preservation” in 1895, became        him out by donating Jackson Pol-
is celebrated for is his central role in    upon his mood.” There was the          a “miraculously fine state” when          lock’s Something of the Past paint-
changing the tastes of the time and         famous quarrel between the brilliant   sold in 1913. Similarly, Duveen sold     ing to auction to raise money for the
making the earlier Italian schools of       writer and fellow expatriate Vernon    a Madonna and Child painting after       bridge. The committee managed to
painting fashionable in the US. He          Lee that lasted over twenty years.     Berenson newly attributed it as a        make sure that the entire bridge was
was also responsible for bringing a         She had publicly criticised his Flo-   Bellini in 1927 for ten times what it    reconstructed from original materi-
range of Italian paintings to Ameri-        rentine Painters of the Renaissance    had been worth when he attributed        als from the original Boboli Garden
can museums, for example the Isa-           in an 1896 review, calling him “an     it as “workshop of Bellini”, which is    quarries, (not concrete, the cheaper
bella Stewart Gardner Museum in             ill-tempered and egotistic ass.” He,   how the painting is now labelled.        version that the Italian State wanted
Boston. Berenson was the advisor            on the other hand, had charged her         The Florentines eventually made      to use) even using traditional 16th
to wealthy clients on the value of          with plagiarism.                       Berenson an honorary citizen in          century tools. When the bridge was
artworks, particularly Italian works,           As the advisor for many wealthy    1949 however, largely because of his     finally completed in 1958, it was
and was actually Isabella Stewart           people and qualified authenticator      significant involvement in rebuild-       considered a perfect replica of the
Gardner’s advisor for about thirty          of important artworks, Berenson,       ing the bombed Ponte Santa Trinità       original.
years.                                      known as the pioneer scholar of        after World War Two. The 16th cen-
    In 1900, he took up residence at        the Italian Renaissance, held quite    tury bridge was the greatest loss to
Villa I Tatti in Settignano (now the        a bit of power in this department.     Florence during the war, when it had
Harvard Centre for Italian Renais-          He used to authenticate paintings      been mined by the Germans in 1944           To find out how to arrange a
sance Studies), initially renting it        for the millionaire gallery owner      along with all the other bridges aside      special visit to Villa I Tatti,
from John Temple Leader and then            and art dealer, Sir Joseph Duveen,     from the Ponte Vecchio. Apparently
                                                                                                                               for scholars or anyone with
purchasing it. He lived there until         who had exclusive galleries all over   it was Berenson who suggested that
his death in 1959. It became a sort of      the world. Duveen himself has been     the bridge be reconstructed “as it          a particular interest in the
mecca for European and American             described “as predatory as any of      was where it was”. Can you imagine          Renaissance, and take a
intellectuals and artsy types, who          the big carnivores of the jungle,”     Florence without the Santa Trinità          tour of the collection that
often went to visit, such as D.H. Law-      so obviously he was not the most       bridge? No, it was simply unthink-          Berenson left behind to
rence who used Berenson as a char-          ethical character himself. Berenson    able. Berenson was the honorary
                                                                                                                               Harvard at his death, visit
acter in one of his novels. Although        secretly received a nice percentage    president of the committee set up to
many people revere him now, he did          of the profits on the paintings he      reconstruct the bridge and he helped        the website of Harvard’s
not always get along with everyone          authenticated for Duveen, meaning      secure a large donation and contri-         Centre for Italian Renais-
and had an infamous temperament.            that a painting such as the Gior-      butions to help pay for the recon-          sance Studies
Harold Acton said of Berenson, “he          gione Portrait of a Man that he        struction. Even the eccentric art
resembled an Old Master, whether            described as having “ deplorably       collector Peggy Guggenheim helped
20                                                                              Life in Italy
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                                

     The ARTS
Brancacci Chapel Junkie                                                                                                                   Rome, the frescoes still unfinished.
                                                                                                                                          Yet these three walls mark the first
                                                                                                                                          examples in painting of linear per-
                                                                                                                                          spective used in a systematic way.
By Ashton Nichols                                                                                                                         Masaccio’s accurate perspective, his
                                                                                                                                          ability to capture the subtlety of nat-

        s an English speaking trav-                                                                                                       ural light on faces and buildings, his
        eller who has journeyed the                                                                                                       emotional intensity combined with
        length and breadth of Italy                                                                                                       emotional reserve; these images are
over the past four decades—from                                                                                                           not only a turning point in Western
Viareggio to Brindisi, from Trieste                                                                                                       art but also in the work of a painter
to Catanzaro, and many stops in                                                                                                           whose influence it is impossible to
between—there is one sight that has                                                                                                       overstate. The frescoes exerted a
always had a particularly powerful,                                                                                                       direct and powerful influence on
literally stunning effect on me when-                                                                                                     Michelangelo, Leonardo, and Rap-
ever I catch sight of it in Florence:                                                                                                     hael among untold others. Masac-
the frescoes of the Brancacci Cha-                                                                                                        cio’s life, however, like the painted
pel in Santa Maria del Carmine.                                                                                                           walls of the Brancacci Chapel,
    From the first time I saw these                                                                                                        was cut short: unfinished. He died
paintings when I was 10 years                                                            “Rendering of the Tribute Money”                 around the age of 27 in Rome under
old, until my most recent visit this                                                                                                      circumstances that remain a mys-
                                                     “Expulsion from the Garden”
                                                                                        does not share the belief system or               tery to this day.
month, the softly painted walls of
                                                                                        the religious zeal of most of those                  So skip climbing to the top of
Masaccio have always moved me
                                                                                        who have looked at these walls for                Brunelleschi’s mighty dome or Giot-
in a way that I can only describe           missed by tourists because it is just       half a millennium, the experience                 to’s stunning bell tower if you are
as epiphanic. Who would not feel            far enough off the Renaissance-Dis-         of these frescoes moves the brain                 scared of heights, or skip the house
moved by these faces and the scenes         neyland route that tends to remain          beyond the physical. The mind is                  of Dante (which may not have been
that surround them? The sobbing,            on David’s side of the river, the           hard-pressed to account for pre-                  Dante’s house at all), or even—if you
screaming, yet strangely stifled sad-        side that is not Oltrarno. Or per-          cisely what it has seen in all of the             must—skip the Bargello, but do not
ness in the hands of Adam and the           haps some tour operators feel that a        imagined richness of artifice that                 come to Florence and leave it again
face of Eve; the remarkably life-           painter whose name is not a house-          covers these walls. The painted                   without a long and loving gaze at
like expressions on the faces of            hold word in England, Canada, or            rooftops are geometric yet warm,                  three painted walls that will literally
the Florentine townspeople of the           the U.S., simply does not vie with          the hands and faces here are only                 change your life. I promise.
1420s; and the folds of falling fabric      Michelangelo, Leonardo, and Rap-            pigment, but they are nevertheless
awash in lavish reds and golds. It          hael. How wrong-headed a view.              the hands and feet of real people. In
is not merely that Tommaso Guidi               The next time you are in Florence,       fact, Masaccio’s faces alone might
Cassai (Masaccio was a nickname             or if you are in Florence today, cross      tell the whole story, but they cannot
bestowed by Vasari because of the           over the river heading south on the                                                              Ashton Nichols is the John and Ann
                                                                                        do if cut from the context provided
painter’s sloppy, careless ways with        Ponte alla Carraia and down Via                                                                  Conser Curley Professor of Language
                                                                                        by every painterly element: lumi-
material objects and his personal           de’ Serragli. Turn right down Via S.        nous eyes and beards, fine fabric                     and Literature at Dickinson College in
hygiene) brought a new realism to           Monaca until you see the Church of          folds, pristine architectural details.               Carlisle, Pennsylvania, USA. He is the
the details of Italian Renaissance          S. Maria del Carmine on your left in             The history of this work, like so               author of two books of literary criticism,
human figures. The faces of the              the corner of the piazza that bears         much in Italian Renaissance history,                 The Revolutionary ‘I’ (1998) and The
actual people who often served as           the same name. Enter the church             is a sad one. The work probably                      Poetics of Epiphany (1987). He has pub-
models for these figures, and the            and move slowly down the right              began around 1424, when Masolino
addition of the vibrant imagination         aisle. Then turn sharply to the right                                                            lished widely on nineteenth and twen-
                                                                                        received the initial commission. He
of this master of light and perspec-        just before you reach the altar. Do                                                              tieth-century literature, and his essays
                                                                                        called on the youthful Masaccio to
tive, produce scenes designed to            not take your camera, but do take                                                                on art, architecture and design have
                                                                                        assist, and the younger artist ended
move us out of our ordinary lives           your memory, sharpened as vividly                                                                appeared in numerous magazines and
                                                                                        up working for roughly two years on
and into a life somehow richer and          as the flood of Florentine images                                                                 periodicals in the U.S. and the U.K.
                                                                                        his own. When Masolino returned
more valuable.                              will allow.                                 around 1427, Masaccio left for
    The chapel is occasionally                 Even for a person like me, who

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                                                                            Life in Italy                                                                            21                                                                                                                         Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                                             Food & WINE
Flavours of the World: Florentine Cuisine
By Lori De Mori                             photo by Antonio Lo Iacono
                                                                                                                            fruit (served on a plate and carefully
                                                                                                                            peeled and sliced with a knife); the
                                                                                                                            young and hip might stop at the bar

                                                                                                                            for an aperitivo before cena, or din-
       here is a habit in Italy—and
                                                                                                                            ner, (rarely drinking to the excess of
       Florence is no exception—of
                                                                                                                            other cultures best left unnamed).
       talking about food while eat-
                                                                                                                            La cena has remained sacrosanct—
ing (“wonderful meals I’ve eaten”
                                                                                                                            whether at home with the family
being a particularly frequent topic).
                                                                                                                            gathered around the table or al ris-
And if you were to ask a Florentine
                                                                                                                            torante. It is without a doubt Flor-
how important food is in the grand
                                                                                                                            ence at its most civilised.
scheme of life, chances are he’d look
                                                                                                                               A trattoria meal will almost
at you askance and respond with
                                                                                                                            always begin with a platter of affet-
something along the lines of, “What
                                                                                                                            tati (cured meats) and crostini di
do you mean? …It is essential…as
                                                                                                                            fegato (chicken liver pâté crostini);
important as air and water…as sex
                                                                                                                            followed by a primo (such as a bread
and love.” In other words, so impor-
                                                                                                                            soup or pasta with peas, zucchini,
tant that its importance is not even
                                                                                                                            mushrooms, or any other season-
up for discussion.
                                                                                                                            able vegetable); main courses are
   Words like nostrale and genuino         pressing. While the ancient alchemy      nary consciousness as to render the
                                                                                                                            typically grilled meats (carne alla
are music to the Florentine palate.        that turns grape juice into wine is      notion of frugality almost invisible.
                                                                                                                            bracce), roasted meats like arista
Nostrale is a word you’ll see writ-        at work, rickety wooden ladders          Beloved soups and salads are made
                                                                                                                            (pork roasted with rosemary and
ten in bold print on a scrap of card-      are propped up against olive trees       from stale bread (ribollita, pappa al
                                                                                                                            garlic), braised beef (straccotto),
board alongside a basket of summer         and wide nets spread below their         pomodoro and panzanella the most
                                                                                                                            or chicken or rabbit fricasseed or
zucchini or pomodori. From nostro          branches for the olive harvest. Olio     famous); beans are cooked in bak-
                                                                                                                            dipped in batter and fried. The most
meaning “ours,” it means locally           nuovo—freshly pressed olive oil—is       ers’ cooling ovens once the bread
                                                                                                                            common contorni, or side dishes, are
grown, and implicit in that label is       the most eagerly awaited culinary        making’s done; and the glimmering
                                                                                                                            sautéed spinach or chard, roasted
the belief that it will be superior to     event of the year, celebrated simply,    embers from potters’ kilns are used
                                                                                                                            potatoes, and insalata verde. After
anything else of its kind available on     as is the Tuscan way, by drenching       to bake peppery beef stews.
                                                                                                                            such a meal, dessert will most cer-
the market.                                toasted bread or creamy cannellini           There is no question that the
                                                                                                                            tainly be biscottini di Prato e vin
   Florentines are not impressed by        beans with the sharp fruity oil and      rhythms of modern life have crept
                                                                                                                            santo, hard almond biscuits to dip
produce that has travelled from far        endlessly comparing the merits of        into the city as they have every-
                                                                                                                            in sweet, golden vin santo.
away continents in another hemi-           this year’s oil to last.                 where else. Gone for the most
sphere. They have little desire to eat        Genuinità refers to genuineness       part are the daily two-hour lunches
peaches in winter or porcini mush-         and authenticity and is more of a        replete with antipasto, primo, sec-
rooms foraged in foreign woods.            concept than a label. Bread leav-        ondo, contorno, dolce, a generous
They trust and take pleasure in the        ened with natural yeast and baked        carafe of vino and a piccola siesta       Lori De Mori writes, gardens, bakes
fruits of their own gentle hills and       in a wood burning oven is genuino,       to round the whole thing out. Nev-        bread and raises her family in a restored
valleys, and they have an apprecia-        as is cheese from the milk of sheep      ertheless, the typical Florentine         farmhouse in the hills outside of Flor-
tion of the many gifts of each sea-        that graze on wild Tuscan grasses,       day—gastronomically speaking—has          ence. She is the author of Florence;
son—spring’s asparagus, artichokes,        or the oil from your neighbour’s         its well established paces, and they      Flavors of the World; Savoring Tuscany
cherries, and strawberries; summer’s       olives, picked by hand each fall and     continue to do justice to that envi-      and Italy Anywhere. She has writ-
tomatoes, aubergines, melons, and          taken to the local mill to be pressed.   able notion of la bella vita: prima       ten about food for many publications
plums; fall’s mushrooms, new olive         Where there is genuinità, there are      colazione, or breakfast, at the bar
                                                                                                                              including Bon Appetit, Saveur, the Tel-
oil, figs, and grapes; winter’s squash,     likely to be artigiani—the passion-      or at home, little more than a caffè
black cabbage, persimmons, and             ate, hardworking artisans whose          latte or cappuccino and a bun; a          egraph, and the Independent.
chestnuts.                                 abiding respect for tradition and the    second caffè at the bar mid-morn-
   Autumn is the Florentine coun-          land keep alive such ancient crafts      ing; at pranzo, or lunch, una mines-      The book signing and presenta-
tryside at its most lushly abundant.       as the curing of meat and the mak-       tra (a soup, Florentines being much       tion of Florence, Flavors of the
First is la vendemmia, the grape           ing of cheese, wine, and bread.          more partial to them than the rest        World (Williams Sonoma 2004)
harvest. The vineyards swarm with             Another benchmark of Florentine       of the world imagines), una bella         will be on Thursday, December 15 at 6
grape pickers and tractors ferrying        cooking is frugality. Theirs is not a    pastasciutta, or perhaps una fet-         pm at McRae Books, Via dei Neri 32/r
grapes to be crushed, and there is a       mean, stingy, parsimony but a series     tina di carne (a wee slice of beef or     - 50122 Firenze - Tel. 055.2382456
faint smell of must in the air after the   of habits so ingrained in their culi-    pork) and un’insalata, or a piece of
22                                                                          Life in Italy
Thursday 1 December 2005                                                                                                                   

  Food & WINE

     Behind Every Great Meal, There Is a Woman
     By Victoria Miachika

           omen chefs are an anom-                                                                                                off like la cucina domenica”, Bea-
           aly in Italy, and for that                                         Benedetta Vitali and Beatrice Segoni                trice explains - still home-style but
           matter, in most of Europe.                                                                                             dressed in its Sunday best. Beatrice
In North America more and more                                                                                                    is also active in the overall manage-
women are stirring the pot in this                                                                                                ment and contemporary look of the
male dominated industry, but here                                                                                                 restaurant, ensuring a thoroughly
in Italy, the domain of the profes-                                                                                               elegant dining option in Florence.
sional kitchen still remains an                                                                                                      These two determined and tal-
impenetrable bastion for women                                                                                                    ented Italian women have earned
despite the fact that most great                                                                                                  their professional status as “chef”,
cooking stems from the domestic                                                                                                   but both concur there are many
kitchens of the mamma. In Florence                                                                                                other unsung female heroes in
there are numerous celebrated male                                                                                                restaurant kitchens all over Flor-
chefs, but rest assured, in every great                                                                                           ence. For Benedetta and Beatrice,
kitchen there is also a female run-                                                                                               going it solo was partly necessary
ning around keeping all those male                                                                                                to establish themselves in their
egos in check! Two such female                                                                                                    careers because, as they explain, “It
gourmets who have worked hard                                                                                                     is usually the men out front while
in the shadow of male counterparts                                                                                                women partners take a behind-the-
but have now earned their aprons                                                                                                  scenes role. Even though it may be
are Beatrice Segoni and Benedetta                                                                                                 a team affair, women receive little
Vitali. With over 50 years of com-                                                                                                acknowledgement for their part of a
                                          “dining    experience”       alongside    tension.” Both agree, however, that
bined experience working in pro-                                                                                                  restaurant’s success.” So next time
                                          specialty products, it is sure to start   recognition as “Chefs” from their
fessional, award-winning kitchens,                                                                                                you have a great dining experience
                                          a new eating trend in Florence and        male colleagues would also be wel-
these two women share another                                                                                                     in Italy, remember to thank the
                                          raise the bar for other restaurants       come. As a woman, it is a difficult
perspective for Italian females wish-                                                                                             chef….....she will appreciate it!
                                          to provide Florentines and tourists       to get this respect in Italy, as most
ing to enter the “chef” profession.
                                          with quality Italian food – something     critics, journalists, and food profes-
   Choosing to be a chef is not a
                                          both Benedetta and Beatrice feel is       sionals are men and are not willing
common decision amongst women
                                          sadly lacking in the cookie-cutter        to share the limelight… yet! For
in Italy; in fact, very few start out
                                          Florentine establishments today.          Beatrice, earning her current posi-
aspiring to be the next Auguste
                                             To be recognised as a Grand Chef       tion as head chef of a top drawer
Escoffier. Beatrice’s and Benedetta’s,
                                          demands a hierarchy of credentials,       Florentine restaurant demanded her
their stories are similar. Each
                                          but two essential ingredients are         being “hard as iron” with the men in
started in different careers, one
                                          product knowledge and creativity          the kitchen. “You can’t be afraid of
as an architect but the other as a
                                          – traits not exclusive to the male        them, even though they always try
designer, both married men in the
                                          and something both Benedetta              to intimidate.” She wears with pride
restaurant business and were quickly
                                          and Beatrice have in surplus. Both        her chef’s cap in Borgo San Jacopo,
indoctrinated into the demanding
                                          credit their mother-in-laws, and          a chic, cosmopolitan restaurant
arena of restaurant management,
                                          not their husbands, as the mentors        attached to the Lungarno Hotel,
in a country which thrives on good
                                          who taught them the foundations of        with a picturesque vista of the Ponte
food and eating. At the age of 22,
                                          good cuisine. “When a female chef         Vecchio. Beatrice oversees a staff of
Benedetta and former husband
                                          is cooking,” Benedetta explains “cli-     5 (two of whom are women) and
Fabio Picchi began the now very
                                          ents have a different expectation;        changes the menu monthly, con-
celebrated      restaurant     Cibrèo.
                                          they don’t expect grand cuisine, but      stantly inventing new dishes reflec-
Twenty plus years and four children
                                          they do expect good food.” Bea-           tive of seasonal produce. The food is
later, she opened her own restaurant
                                          trice seconds this: “Clients appear       flavourful and sophisticated but not                   ����������������������
Zibibbo in Careggi. No stranger to                                                                                                         ����������������������
                                          more at ease with a woman chef            complicated and fussy. ”It is impor-
hard work, long hours, the demands                                                                                                         ���������������������
                                          than with a male one; there is less       tant that the ingredients be shown
of knowing your product, clients,
and way around a kitchen, it didn’t
take long for her restaurant to hit all
the major guide books and achieve                                                           �������������������������€ ������
international recognition for its
good, simple Tuscan fare that offers                                                        ����������������€ ������
more than a plate of pasta and a
beefsteak Florentine. Featured in                                                           ������������������������€ ������
Bon Appetit, and Food and Wine,
Zibibbo’s provides great food                                                                 ����������������������������
inspired by fresh local produce and                                                           �������������������
peppered with Benedetta’s personal
love of Sicily, adding an extra                                                               ���������������������������
dash of interest and flavour to her
menus. Her energy and enthusiasm
are tangible. Benedetta has just                                                            ������������                                             �����������
opened a new restaurant called                                                              �����������������������
BZF - BeZeEffe (which means “a                                                                                                                                   ���������
lot of”) near San Lorenzo market.
Offering a smaller menu with a
                                                                                            ��������������������������������                      ���������������������������
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                                                                                                       Useful Numbers and Classified Ads                                                                           23                                                                                                                                                                         Thursday 1 December 2005

                                                                                                                                                                              Classified ADS
 Housing For Sale/Immobili Vendita                                     Signed contemporary New York                                   salary, living accommodations and       Personalized cooking classes one
 Loft For Sale in Prato. 2 lofts near                                  artists’ prints for sale; Hirst, Warhol,                       meal plan. Experience working           day or more. Min. 2 people- max
                                                                       Schnabel, Chia, Salle, Kruger.                                 with U.S. students, or interest in      12 people. Only very traditional
 historic centre, each 137 sq. m.,
                                                                       Phone: 055 2396458 10am-7pm                                    the area, preferred. Ability to speak   Tuscan cookery, plus very exclusive
 ideal for home office. We can show
                                                                                                                                      and write English at proficient level    arts and crafts tours. Only week
 project and location. For information,
 e-mail                                           I sell original documents written by                           required. Ability to work legally in    days.,
                                                                       Benito Mussolini and King of Italy.                            Italy required and is the sole re-
 Housing for Rent/Immobili in Affitto                                   Email                                     sponsibility of the applicant. Inter-   Private oil painting lessons in Eng-
                                                                                                                                      ested candidates should email a         lish, Saturday/Sunday mornings near
 Two large, bright rooms, in a flat                                                                                                    cover letter and resume to: florence.
 equipped with every comfort, for rent                                 Help Wanted/Offerte di lavoro                        
                                                                                                                                                                              Teatro Goldoni. Still life subject, can-
                                                                                                                                                                              vas, paints and easel supplied.
 in via Mariti, 100 m. from University.                                New York University in Florence                                                                        All levels welcome. For more infor-
 Non smokers only. Tel. 055.353425.                                    seeks candidates for the part-time                             Job Opportunity. Sales Associ-          mation please contact Cathy at 055
                                                                       position of Community Resource                                 ate for The Florentine. We are          2207171/3381499392
 Household Items for Sale/                                             Assistant. This four month oppor-                              looking for people who are inter-
 Oggetti in Vendita                                                    tunity (renewable) includes on-duty                            ested in selling advertising in The
                                                                       coverage for students in crisis situ-                          Florentine throughout Florence
 Lots of good stuff for sale, at                                       ations, office hours, accompanying                              and Tuscany. Please contact:            Single mom expat is looking for an
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 antiques, florentine-candelabras,                                      and working check-in and check-out                                                                     girl 6-8, for a very funny and slightly
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 239 6458, 10am-7pm                                                                                                                   Jobs Wanted/Cerco lavoro                in Centro. Call 320 9528697
                                                                                                                                      Experienced babysitter English
                                                                                                                                      19 year-old student seeks weekday       German girl just arrived in Florence
  ���������������������������                                                                                                         evening and weekend work.               looking for for Italian female friends
                                                                                                                                      Caroline 333.4750132                    not older than 40y.o. Write to Karen
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  ����������������������������������������������������������������                                                                    Australian woman seeks part-time
                                                                                                                                      work. Can teach English (Tesol          Looking for English-speaking tod-
  ����������������������                                                                                                              qualification), baby-sit, pet-mind,      dlers in the Prato area to play / hang
                                                                                                                                      work in office. Hardworking, en-         out with my Italian daughter who
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  �����������������������������������������                                                                                                                                   40 year old man looking for English
                                                                                                                                      A 28 y.o. good-looking, reliable        speaking friends to improve his
  ����������������������������������������������������                                                                                German girl is looking for a job as     English also for Italian/English con-
                                                                                                                                      shop assistant or receptionist in a     versation, no private lessons.
  ������������������������������������                                                                                                perfume shop, fashion shop etc.         Marco 335.204747
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                                                                                                                                      I teach English several evenings        looking for other English speaking
  ����������������                                                                                                                    a week and am looking for day           moms? Join our English speaking
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  ������������������������                                                                                                            ing for office work, creative work,      For more information call Melanie @
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  �� �������������� ����������� ��� ������� ���� ����� ����� ����� ��� ������ ����������� ��������� ��� ������������� �����           on

Borgo de’ Medici is a family�owned and operated company that originated
with the aim of producing and promoting a selection of “jewels” of Tuscan
gastronomy. With it’s own distinguished brand, it is known and distributed
throughout the world.

O   ur 400 products carry on the unique quality and variety of our heritage.
Enriched by ancestral and hard to find knowledge, the products formed in
this manner are not only good to taste but “to ponder” about, also.

Now, at Christmas time, you can find our specialties – created for the
pleasure of the gourmet – in a very appealing gift pack.

Borgo de’ Medici wishes to extend the invitation to The Florentine readers
for two tasting occasions on
Saturday 3rd and 10th December
from 9.00 to 12.30. RSVP

A special discount will be granted to all The Florentine
readers at this event.
We will be happy to deliver your purchases worldwide.

Borgo de’ Medici
via Y.Gagarin, 35 59100 Prato Toscana
tel. +39 0574 63 67 26 fax +39 0574 545745

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