PRESS RELEASE 2007 Historical outline
Embroidery tradition in St.Gallen
The textile history of St.Gallen is as old as the history of the city itself. It lies 15 kilometres southwest of Lake Constance in a narrow, high-lying valley of the Alpine foothills which is cut through by several rivers. Benedictine monks in the hermitage founded by St. Gallus in 612 cultivated the barren land. And, since nothing thrived in the highlying valley that is situated 670 meters above sea level, people began growing hardy flax and hemp, the basis of linen weaving. From canvas to mousseline In accordance with the monastic model, the manufacture of canvas was passed on to the hands of the country dwellers. In the High Middle Ages, St. Gallen merchants already maintained trade relations in the whole of Europe as manufacturers and exporters of canvas. That was not too surprising, since canvas from St. Gallen was a coveted item. Even back then, the textile products from eastern Switzerland met the highest quality standards. Before the goods were sent off, a town commission inspected the woven material. If goods were not flawless, the trader had to tear them up in front of the inspection commission with his own hands. Towards the end of the Middle Ages, St. Gallen had trading agencies abroad and operated the first regular European mail coach connections to Nuremberg and Lyon. The beginning of cotton embroidery In the early 18th century, cotton from the American colonies began to drive European linen, produced with flax, out of the market. St. Gallen merchants reacted quickly. With their fine cotton-mousseline they soon controlled the export business and St.Gallen developed into an important centre for the cotton industry. About 250 years ago, in the mid-18th century, St. Gallen merchants in Lyon watched how Turkish hand-embroiderers embroidered their silk items. The merchants picked up this idea and decided to embroider St. Gallen cotton, as well. As early as 1790, approximately 40,000 embroiderers from eastern Switzerland did outwork for the city merchants. At that time, St.Gallen had about 8,000 inhabitants, and the area, together with both Appenzells, had about 100,000. Thus, along with farming, the entire working life was focused on the textile- and embroidery trade.
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Embroidery in the Industrial Age Originally, the embroidering of material was done entirely by hand. With the invention of the hand-operated embroidery machine during the first half of the 19th century and the invention of the Schiffli embroidery machine during the second half of the 19th century, the Industrial Age began for embroidery. The invention of the handoperated embroidery machine in Alsace in 1829 (Joshua Heilmann, Mühlhausen) made factory-like production possible for the first time, after which an enormous increase in production ensued. Power and handling were supplied by sheer muscle. From then on, men operated the machines while the women’s work was limited to retouching the produced goods. The first large machine embroidery factory was built in St. Gallen in 1840. About thirty years later one could count around 3,000 embroidering machines in the canton of St. Gallen alone. Many small farmers took training courses in embroidery and thus improved their modest income with outwork. With the invention of the Schiffli embroidery machine in 1863 (Isaak Gröbli, Uzwil), the machine also took over the handling and the power. In light of the increase in production and the decrease in number of workers, embroidered goods could be sold at cheaper prices. Bitter competition broke out between the traditional and modern manufacturers. Flourishing and fall Political stability and freedom of trade in the 1870’s enormously promoted the export business with embroidery, and St. Gallen developed into a textile capital. In 1912, embroidery was the leading Swiss export followed by the watch- and machine industry. At that time, over 50 per cent of the world’s production of textiles came from St. Gallen (today it’s 0.5 per cent). In 1919 the worldwide trade relations culminated in a record: Switzerland exported embroidery at a value of 410 million Swiss Francs. With the growing wealth, the townscape changed. The medieval town wall was torn down, richly decorated business houses went up near the train station whose impressive dimensions, even today, attest to its importance as a traffic hub. In the well-off manufacturer’s houses at Rosenberg, the industrial nobility cultivated cosmopolitan attitudes and culture, while the workers were put up in tenement blocks that had been built on the periphery of the town. After the First World War, embroidery sales dropped off, and the economic decline had devastating consequences for the embroiderers: wages decreased and many workers were laid off. Nevertheless, embroidery remained the most important branch of industry in St. Gallen up until the 1960’s.
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The embroidery industry today With the economic upswing, the embroidery industry recovered after the Second World War and culminated in a second export record in its history in 1982 at a level of 345 million Swiss Francs (in 1919 it was 419 million Francs). In 1990 the eastern Switzerland exporters accounted for 251 million Swiss Francs in exports. The target group for the embroidery market changed after the end of the war. Embroideries were no longer an extravagance reserved for the affluent, but instead became affordable for the masses. For example, today 65% of the entire embroidery production is allotted to the lingerie sector, and the remaining 35 per cent is allotted to the women’s fashion industry. The offerings of St. Gallen’s textile manufacturers range from new creations for haute couture and prêtà-porter to wedding dresses, bed and table linens, sportswear, baby clothes, curtains and handkerchiefs. Since choosing the right material and colour is crucial for the popularity of collections with international purchasers, the investment costs for many textile companies are high: Embroidery firms invest up to a million Swiss Francs per year in pattern design which can include up to 6,000 patterns per year. With its more than 300 Schiffli embroidery machines – the most of which are now computer-controlled – the Swiss embroidery industry is regarded as the most modern in the world. There are still many production areas in the textile industry in particular, which, in spite of computers, demand expert handwork. In order to be able to survive on the world market with high production costs and compete against manufacturers in countries with low wages, the companies are focusing more and more on special products and new articles, with the highest quality standards. For example, they are developing cooling materials, t-shirts treated with vitamin c or specially prepared fireproof materials. The first embroidered textile stamps, developed and produced by a respected St. Gallen embroidery company, were especially successful. Information: Textilmuseum (textile museum) Vadianstrasse 2, CH-9000 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 222 17 44 Fax: +41 (0)71 223 42 39 E-Mail: info@textilmuseum.ch Internet: www.textilmuseum.ch Opening hours: Mon.-Sun.: 10 -17
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Openings for groups upon request and notification Textilbibliothek (textile library) Vadianstrasse 2, CH-9000 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 222 17 47 Fax: +41 (0)71 223 42 39 Email: info@textilbibliothek.ch Internet: www.textilbibliothek.ch Opening hours: Tue.-Fr.: 10- 12 and 14 – 17, Sat.: 10-12 Closed on Monday, Sunday and public holidays. Schweizerische Textilfachschule St.Gallen (Swiss textile technical college) Vadianstrasse 2, CH-9000 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 987 68 40 Fax: +41 (0)71 987 68 41 E-Mail: stf_stgallen@stfschule.ch Internet: www.textilfachschule.ch Ostschweizerische Stickereifachschulen, St.Gallen (eastern Swiss technical college of embroidery) Waldmannstrasse 6, CH-9014 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 Fax: +41 (0)71 E-Mail: stickfachschule@bluewin.ch Internet: www.stickfachschule.ch
Stickereiboutiquen in St.Gallen (embroidery boutiques) Bambola (Jakob Schlaepfer) Brühlgasse 35 CH-9004 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 223 70 23 Offerings: St. Gallen embroideries and fabrics Fabrikladen Bischoff Textil AG (outlet) Burgstrasse
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CH-9001 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 272 01 11 Fax: +41 (0)71 272 03 97 E-Mail: bitex@bischoff-textil.com Internet: www,bischoff-textil.com/laden.html Opening hours: Wed. 13:30-17:30, Sat. 9 -12.30 Offerings: St. Gallen embroideries, fabrics and gifts Textilmuseum Sorntal (textile museum) CH-9213 Hauptwil Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 424 62 11 Fax: +41 (0)71 424 62 62 Opening hours: on weekdays by telephone arrangements Museum tour: only group tours from 10 to a maximum of 40 people possible, duration about 1 ½ hours Thematische Stadtführungen (thematic city tours) Thematic city tours on the textile history of St.Gallens for groups upon request: St.Gallen-Bodensee Tourismus CH-9001 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 227 37 18 Fax: +41 (0)71 227 37 67 E-Mail: info@st.gallen-bodensee.ch Internet: www.st.gallen-bodensee.ch Important embroidery companies in St. Gallen Jakob Schlaepfer, St.Gallen Short profile: The Jakob Schlaepfer company is rooted in the tradition of St. Gallen embroidery. In 1904 Jakob Schlaepfer joined the newly founded Vogel & Co. embroidery house. The abbreviation “bird” with the imprint of the peacock fanning its tail still makes reference to the original company. In 1934 Jakob Schlaepfer purchased the company. His son, Robert Jakob Schlaepfer, took over the management of the company in 1957 and ran it together with his wife, Lisbeth, until 1995. They made a radical change in their products: Instead of the traditional embroidery design, the focus is now on the designing and production of new textile articles. In this
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way, they created a foundation for the worldwide reputation of Jakob Schlaepfer as a manufacturer of innovative creations for prêt-àporter and haute couture. Company address: Jakob Schlaepfer Fürstenlandstrasse 99 CH-9001 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 274 92 92 Fax: +41 (0)71 274 92 90 E-Mail: bird@jakob-schlaepfer.ch Internet: www.jakob-schlaepfer.ch Boutique: Bambola Stickerei-Boutique Schlaepfer & Co. AG Brühlgasse 35 CH-9004 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 223 70 23 Offerings: St. Gallen embroideries and fabrics Bischoff Textil AG, St.Gallen Short profile: Bischoff Textil AG has been registered as a traditional textile company in St. Gallen since 1927. The name has come to stand for exclusive design and high-quality fashion. Bischoff Textil AG’s primary customers are companies which produce underwear, clothes and household textiles. Today the textile company from St. Gallen has branches in London, Milan, Lustenau (Austria), New York, Los Angeles and Bangkok, as well as joint ventures in Turkey, the United States and Thailand. Company address: Bischoff Textil AG Bogenstrasse 9 CH-9000 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 272 01 11 Fax: +41 (0)71 272 03 97 E-Mail: bitex@bischoff-textil.com Internet: www.bischof-textil.com Outlet: Bischoff Textil AG Burgstrasse CH-9001 St.Gallen
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Switzerland Opening hours: Wed. -Fri. 13:30 – 17:30, Sat. 9-12.30 Offerings: St. Gallen embroideries, fabrics and gifts
Akris AG, St.Gallen Short profile: Akris AG has been a family business since it was founded in 1922. What started as a traditional embroidery company has developed into one of the 15 most important couture houses in the world. The brothers Albert and Peter Kriemler manage the company together, which is now in the hands of the third generation. Akris models are distinguished by their creativity and high-quality standard and are manufactured exclusively in Switzerland. The production sites in St. Gallen, Zurich and Tessin are equipped with the latest technology and the products are enhanced with precise handwork. Akris has boutiques all over the world: New York, Boston, Los Angeles, Seoul, Tokyo, Monte Carlo, Paris, Zurich, St.Gallen, Düsseldorf and Frankfurt am Main. Company address: Akris AG Felsenstrasse 40 CH-9001 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 22 777 22 Fax: +41 (0)71 22 777 00 E-Mail: akris@akris.ch Internet: www.akris.ch
Forster-Rohner AG, St.Gallen Short profile: Forster Rohner was founded in1904 as a traditional embroidery company specializing in cotton “whites”. Today the family business produces fabric- and embroidery creations that are used by fashion stars like St. Laurent, Galliano, Armani or Dolce and Gabbana. Forster Rohner’s original building and most important production site are in St.Gallen. Moreover, embroidering is also done in two branches in Malaga, Spain and in Lustenau in the Vorarlberg region in Austria. Further, there are embroidery firms worldwide ( in Latin America, Africa and Asia) that produce with a licence from Forster Rohner.
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Company address: Forster Rohner AG Flurhofstrasse 150 Ch-9006 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71- 243 15 15 Fax: +41 (0)71- 243 15 00 E-Mail: admin@forsterrohner.com Fabrikverkauf Forster Rohner AG (factory sale) Twice a year: Late October/early November and late April/mid-May People interested in being invited to the factory sale are requested to send their address to Forster Rohner AG by e-mail. Contact: Ursula Wittchow, Email: u.wittchow@forsterrohner.com
Other „textile“ institutes Die Schweizerische Textilfachschule St.Gallen (Swiss textile technical college) The Swiss Textile Technical College is located on the first floor of the textile museum on Vadianstrasse. It is part of the tradition of the house, which spans for more than 100 years. Fashion and design, the latest textile technology and contemporary marketing methods are taught here at the official technical college. The training spectrum of the Swiss Textile Technical College in these three fields ranges from one-day courses to two-year full-time instruction. The vocational seminars, training and full-time courses of study take place in Wattwil, Zurich and St.Gallen. Various courses for further training in all of German-speaking Switzerland round out the training program in all three fields. The Swiss Textile Technical College is financed by the government, cantons, municipalities, employers’ associations and companies. Information: Vadianstrasse 2, CH-9000 St.Gallen, Switzerland, Tel.: +41 (0)71 987 68 40, Fax: +41 (0)71 987 68 40, stf_stgallen@stfschule.ch, Internet: www.textilfachschule.ch Ostschweizerische Stickfachschule St.Gallen (eastern Swiss technical college for embroidery) The Stickfachschule, in existence since 1931, has been enlarged several times and equipped with the latest technical machinery. Businesses in the embroidery industry offer three-year
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apprenticeships in the areas of design, drawing/punching and punching/embroidery. These areas shape the schooling received by the trainees at the college, located on Waldmannstrasse. Moreover, a business apprenticeship is offered, as well. Various courses for further education and evening courses are also available at the Eastern Swiss Technical College for Embroidery. Information: Ostschweizerische Textilfachschulen Waldmannstrasse 6 CH-9014 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 274 91 20 Fax: +41 (0)71 274 91 31 E-Mail: stickfachschule@bluewin.ch Internet: www.stickfachschule.ch Textilbibliothek St.Gallen (textile library) With its comprehensive open access- and reference areas, the textile library is among the most important specialised libraries in the world. Here, documents on diverse textile fields are obtained, collected, and saved. The main focus of the book- and pattern collections is on creative aesthetics and art history. New acquisitions such as, for example, tattoo collections, books on plants or the art of Japanese woodcutting reflect the wide range of inspiration and the spirit of the age that is to be made accessible for interested persons. More than two million embroidery patterns, 7,000 fashion photographs, Japanese rice paper stencils, as well as current fashion magazines from all over the world both inform and inspire visitors. The library includes 20,000 books which can be checked out and 60,000 loose-leaf pattern charts. Books and magazines are laid out in an easy-to-find manner which fits in well with the overall concept of the library and allows for easy use. At any time, unwieldy historical pattern books with fabric samples can be laid on available tables and carefully studied in proper lighting. In the reference area, small, quiet reading areas are ideal for browsing through current fashion magazines. Information: Vadianstrasse 2, CH-9000 St.Gallen, Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 222 17 47, Fax: +41 (0)71 223 42 39, E-Mail: info @textilbibliothek.ch Internet: www.textilbibliothek.ch Opening hours:
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Tue.-Sat.: 10-12 and Tue.-Fri.: 14 – 17 Closed on Monday, Sunday and public holidays. Every 1st Wednesday of the month, open from 10 17 Closed from July 21 to August 12, 2002 Textilverband Schweiz (Swiss textile association) The Swiss Textile Association is the only larger Swiss employers’ association that also has a full office in St. Gallen. This shows the importance of St. Gallen for the entire Swiss textile industry. Information: Textilverband Schweiz Waldmannstrasse 6 CH-9014 St.Gallen Switzerland Tel.: +41 (0)71 274 90 90 Fax: +41 (0)71 274 91 00 E-Mail: contact_sg@tvs.ch Internet: www.swisstextiles.ch
Go-to person for media: St. Gallen-Bodensee Tourismus, Astrid Nakhostin, Bahnhofplatz 1a, CH-9001 St. Gallen, Tel. +41 (0)71 227 37 19, Fax +41 (0)71 227 37 67, E-Mail: astrid.nakhostin@st.gallen-bodensee.ch, Internet: www.st.gallen-bodensee.ch
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