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					the guide.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  the guide.




brunswick
victoria
                                                                                                                                                Moka Gigi’s beetroot salad. Clockwise from 
                                                                                                                                               left: the homey vibe of Each Peach; its fifties 
                                                                                                                                                 decor; Ray’s french toast with sweet labne    
                                                                                                                                              and maple syrup; street-style cool at Empire; 
                                                                                                                                                Rumi’s roasted brussels sprouts with sujuk 
                                                                                                                                                   salami, tahini and zaatar; Sandy Green of 
                                                                                                                                                  Green Refectory; biscotti from Pasticceria 
                                                                                                                                                    Italia; mod-Middle Eastern fare at Ray’s.




brunswick
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BViiEgZhidcY^kZh^cidi]jaijgVab^mi]Vi^h7gjchl^!i]Y\nBZaWdjgcZhjWjgWl]ZgZ                                                                              handsome strawberry or passionfruit           cheddar or manchego). For something               Alternatively, there’s the distinctly
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V[Zhh^iVadc\h^YZhidgZh[jaad[mdi^ddYh!VcYe^ooVXdbZh^cVaah]VeZhVcYXj^h^cZh#                                                                            cream sponge which can be ordered whole       more substantial, opt for one of the tagines   skate-punk meets hippy-grunge feel of
                                                                                                                                                     a day ahead. Or just come in for all-day      – perhaps lamb and date – from chef Kim        Empire (295 Sydney Rd, 0402 328 969),
LDG9H C7JJFH;IJED         E=DID<G6E=N    C7HAHEF;H                                                                                                   breakfasts such as their burrito or popular   Maree-Moore. Rather incongruously, they        with its Fairtrade coffee, free wireless
                                                                                                                                                     raspberry porridge, with a refreshing pear,   also sell takeaway fish and chips out the      internet and a menu offering chook or red
If Melbourne is Australia’s cafe capital,        fact it now has one of the state’s highest       sydney road dining                                 ginger and mint juice.                        front of the restaurant.                       lentil, chickpea and mushroom burgers.
then the suburb of Brunswick has become          birth rates. It’s also underpinned by a rich     At the southern end of the strip, you’ll              Owners Sandy and Tony Green have              If your tastes run to something funkier,    You can also feed your inner child with
its epicentre. The strips of Sydney Road         multicultural history, resulting in a range of   find one of the pioneers of Sydney Road’s          also opened a more sophisticated bar/         then look no further than the backpacker       free Pac Man and Galaga games.
and upper Lygon Street in neighbouring           great bakeries, an atlas of exotic food stores   cafe renaissance. Green Refectory (115             restaurant a few shops down the road.         chic of Tom Phat (184 Sydney Rd, (03)             Far slicker is Moka Gigi (165a Sydney
Brunswick East, and the roads that lace          and amazingly cheap ethnic restaurants           Sydney Rd, (03) 9387 1150), with its               With high bench seating, matching-            9381 2374) with its Chinese mountain-top       Rd, (03) 9381 1642), which makes a wickedly
between them, are home to some of the            representing a United Nations of kitchens.       combination of old furniture, long                 altitude butcher block tables and two large   mural, award-winning roti omelette, good       good short black and sells bagels and
city’s funkiest, grungiest and tastiest cafes.      It all adds up to great places to hang        communal table and cool, slightly grungy           gilt fish-eye mirrors, Robbies Stein (99      coffee made from Coffee Supreme beans,         pastries. What really stands out, however,
   This boom is supported by the area’s          out, affordable and delicious diners, and        feel, is perennially busy. Regulars come           Sydney Rd, (03) 9388 9817) is the place to    and multicultural fare like the “Uncle Ho’s    is the display cabinet of vibrant Greek
once bargain-priced housing, its popularity      fantastic havens to stock your larder full       for homemade pies and freshly baked                drop in for a glass of wine and some cheese   breakfast” of pork chop with crispy fried      dishes like cabbage rolls, beetroot with
with students and young people, and the          of intriguing ingredients.                       cakes at the counter, inlcuding the tall,          (maybe creamy blue Valdeon, Pyengana          egg, cucumber and tomato.                      rainbow chard and stewed broad beans.


60  delicious.
the guide.                                                                                                                                                                                            the guide.

recipes from the 50-year-old Italian bakery      where to drink                                     Also check out nearby Istanbul Halal
previously on this site. We’re especially        There are also a number of great fashionable    Meats (609 Sydney Rd, (03) 9380 4895)
fond of their mousse-like hot chocolate          but down-to-earth little bars in this part of   for their sujuk and bastourma (a delicious
with one of the almond-meal biscuits             the strip, which make a fine alternative to     spice-rubbed, air-dried beef). Another well-
with finger-pinched tops that proudly            the plethora of music and boozing spots.        regarded halal butcher is Medina Meat
declare their handmade origins.                  As much a den as a bar – complete with its      Supplies (755 Sydney Rd, (03) 9386 0982).
   For a more traditional cafe menu and          own pool table in a shed out back – Atticus        At the Phoenician Bakery Café (774
good breakfasts, try Poached (169 Lygon          Finch (129 Lygon St, (03) 9387 0188) is the     Sydney Rd, (03) 9386 4868), you’ll find an
St, (03) 9387 2396) or newer arrival             place to come for an adult list of small-run    even more extensive world of Middle
Gingerlee (117 Lygon St, (03) 9380 4430).        wines and local Yarra Valley whisky. Across     Eastern inspiration. Beyond pomegranate
This cafe housed in an old motorcycle            thr road, The Alderman (134 Lygon St, (03)      molasses and rosewater, this shop sells its
garage has a stark monochrome interior.          9380 9003) is the cool but very downtown        own bread, interesting sweets, and racks
The crunchy, toffeed Syrian-style french         local that’s all dumpster chic meets the sort   of everything from canned ful medames
toast with rhubarb, pistachios and               of Parisian student bar you yearn to            (Egyptian beans) and jars of crunchy
honeyed labne is the dish to savour here.        stumble across when backpacking.                pickles, to Iranian essentials like barberries
                                                   Fans of gangland TV series Underbelly         or dried limes (pick the black ones,
lebanon via lygon                                might appreciate an ale at the Brunswick        otherwise you may as well be buying
While the Carlton end of Lygon Street is         Club (203-207 Sydney Rd, (03) 9380 5144)        dried lemons). Try snacking on the
synonymous with Italian, Brunswick East          – it was here among the poker machines          mustard-coated dried broad beans, too.
has more Lebanese flavour these days.            that Lewis Moran met his demise.                   For a more earthy, old-school experience,
   The most notable restaurant is Rumi                                                           try Miramar Nut Shop (313 Lygon St,
(132 Lygon St, (03) 9388 8255), which has        where to shop                                   (03) 9387 6805) and NSM Importers &
just celebrated its second birthday and is       If you grew up in an Italian family on the      Wholesalers (381-385 Victoria St, (03) 9387
one of the assayed gems of the area.             other side of the city, chances are trips to    7718) with their bins of pulses and shelves
Joseph Abboud’s menu is becoming                 Mediterranean Wholesalers (482 Sydney           laden with vine leaves and coffees. Middle
increasingly refined and is exhibiting           Rd, (03) 9380 4777), a giant Italian deli-      East Bakeries (20-22 Hope St, (03) 9380
more Persian flourishes. Expect such             cum-grocery-cum-bakery-cum-ravioli-             2119) sells olives and Arab groceries, while
flavour punches as roasted brussels              maker were part of growing up. Today,           Pamukkale Bakery (692 Sydney Rd, (03)
sprouts with sujuk salami, tahini and            you don’t need to speak Italian to enjoy        9386 4144) makes some of the city’s best
zaatar, or a riot of eggplant paste with         buying everything from salted sardines,         Turkish bread. Come early as it sells fast.
pistachios and barberries.                       mortadella and lupini beans to specialty           Another quirky stop for the keen cook is
   Further south, you’ll find the mum-style      cheeses, fresh-baked biscotti or even a         Cedar Hospitality Supplies (194 Sydney
Lebanese menu at Habayib (44 Lygon St,           (sigh) $495 bottle of grappa!                   Rd, (03) 9387 4455), which has everything
(03) 9381 4005), which offers classics like         It isn’t just Italian up this way, though.   you’d need to set up a restaurant, including
silverbeet rolls and kibbeh. The newest          In fact, Brunswick has the highest              gadgets like daikon shredders. In fact,
arrival is Baba (80 Lygon St, (03) 9380 8534)    concentration of delis and supermarkets         Brunswick and neighbouring Coburg are
with its Middle Eastern-inspired dishes          selling exotic ingredients in Melbourne.        the city’s centres for caterering outfitters.
like carrot and saganaki fritters, calamari      Most impressive is BASFoods (419 Victoria          You’ll also find Melbourne Food
                                                                                                                                                  Owner Sarah Crofton and chef Jo Hempseed of 
and apple salad, or goat and okra tagine.        St, (03) 9381 1444) which sells everything      Ingredient Depot (508 Lygon St, (03) 9386
                                                                                                                                                  El Mirage. Clockwise from left: Italian goods at 
   You’ll also find a selection of established   from Greek couscous-like trahana and a          3206), which as well as selling herbs and            Mediterranean Wholesalers; Small Block’s 
Indian and Italian places around these           range of cracked wheats in different grades     spices, stocks all manner of gels, powders         striking interior; Rumi’s tahini brandade and 
parts, including Kake di Hatti (128 Lygon        of coarseness, to Turkish rose-petal jam,       of dehydrated raspberry or beetroot, and         eggplant puree with pistachios; its chef-owner 
St, (03) 9387 7771) or Zia Teresa (90 Lygon      a dizzying choice of rice, and buckets of       chef Raymond Capaldi’s range of potions,         Joseph Abboud; El Fayha’s renowned pastries.     
St, (03) 9380 1218). The other Italian option    feta or haloumi. They even sell barbecues       to have you cooking like a molecularist.
is I Carusi (46a Holmes St, (03) 9386 5522).     with motorised skewer turners for kebabs!          Given the area’s ever-broadening ethnic
The pioneering Pietro Barbagello began              Of course, it‘s the network of dedicatedly   mix, you’ll also find the Filipino-run, pan-
Melbourne’s artisan thin-crust pizza             Arabic stores that’s best established here.     Asian Ali-Med Mangh Vhic Supermarket
revolution here about a decade ago, and          Extremely popular is A1 Bakery (see             (440 Sydney Rd, (03) 9381 0433) selling
you’ll still find combos like leek and           Where to Eat), where you’ll find a bakery       dried fish and canned jackfruit, as well as
gorgonzola or chocolate and peach.               cafe and shelves lined with everything          Indian stores such as Synergy Enterprises
   For funky Greek, you’ll have to wait          from frozen packs of those totemic Arabic       (50 Sydney Rd, (03) 9380 9344). and Bismi
until The Press Club’s George Calombaris         greens called molokia to thumbnail-sized        Market (852 Sydney Rd, (03) 9383 2698)
opens his new taverna on Lygon Street.           okra, dried herbs and tamarind syrup.           which stocks hard-to-find culinary gear.


64  delicious.                                                                                                                                                                                         delicious.  65
the guide.



                                        1.
                                                                                                              map key
                                                                                                              A Minor Place .....................................15
                                                                                                              A1 Bakery ............................................ 3
                                   2.                                                                         AG  ......................................................18
                                                                                                              Ali-Med Mangh Vhic Supermarket ...... 8
                                             15.                      16.                                     Amir Bakery ........................................ 1
                                   3.
                                                                                                                                 .
                                                                                                              Atticus Finch  ......................................19
                                 4.                                                                           Baba ...................................................21
                                                                  17.                                         Balha’s Pastry ..................................... 2
                 5.                                                                                           BASFoods ............................................ 6 
                                                                                                              Bismi Market ....................................... 1
                                                                                                  22.         Blackhearts & Sparrows ....................19
         6.                   7.                                                                              Brunswick Club ..................................11
                                                                                                              Brunswick Market ............................... 3
                                                                18.                                           Café 3A ...............................................14 
                            8.          9.                                                                    Cedar Hospitality Supplies .................11
                                                                                                              CERES ................................................22
                                                                                                              Each Peach .........................................17
                                                                                                              El Fahya Sweets .................................. 3
                        11.                                                                                   El Mirage ............................................18
                                                                                                              Empire ................................................11
   10.                                                     19.
                            14.                                                                               Gingerlee ............................................19
                      12.                                                                                     Green Refectory .................................12
                                                   20.                                                                    .
                                                                                                              Habayib  ..............................................21
                      13.                                 21.                                                 I Carusi ...............................................16
                                                                                                              Istanbul Halal Meats ........................... 4
                                                                                                              La Manna Fresh ................................... 8
                                                                                                              La Paloma............................................ 9 
                                                                                                              Mamma Lucia .....................................20
                                                                                                              Medina Meat Supplies ......................... 2
                                                                                                              Mediterranean Wholesalers ................ 7 
                                                                                                              Melbourne Food Ingredient Depot......17
AG (325 Lygon St, (03) 9380 5637) is an                     For fresh fruit, veg or flowers, try award-
                                                                                                              Middle East Bakeries........................... 5 
interesting mish-mash of Middle-Eastern                  winning greengrocers La Manna Fresh                            .
                                                                                                              Minimo  ................................................ 1
and Indian goods (try the housemade                      (403-407 Sydney Rd, (03) 9380 1909). For a           Miramar Nut Shop ..............................18
tomato and chilli chutney), with African                 boutique organic experience, try the CERES           Moka Gigi ............................................11
threads thrown in for good measure.                      market (Wed & Sat, 9am-1pm, see Where                      .
                                                                                                              Mule  ...................................................12
                                                                                                              Negrita Coffee ..................................... 6
   Brunswick also expresses its cultural mix             to Eat) or Smith & Maloney Green Grocers
                                                                                                              NSM Importers & Wholesalers ........... 6
through the suburb’s sweet tooth. There’s                (157 Lygon St, (03) 9381 1416) .                     Pantheon Cakes................................... 7
Pasticceria Italia (592 Sydney Rd, (03) 9380                Obviously bar owners need something               Pasticceria Italia .................................. 4 
4977), which has been satisfying the area’s              to do during the day; Smith & Maloney is             Penny Royal ........................................10 
love of almondy Italian biscuits since 1963;             run by the guys from The Alderman, while             Phoenician Bakery and Café................ 2
                                                                                                              Piazza 51 ............................................13
or the swisher Pantheon Cakes (483 Sydney                the Atticus Finch team run Blackhearts &
                                                                                                              Poached ..............................................19
Rd, (03) 9380 4634) for Greek confections.               Sparrows Wine Purveyors (131 Lygon St,               Pummakale Bakery ............................. 3
   There is no little debate over who makes              (03) 9380 1831), where you can buy cult                  .
                                                                                                              Ray  ...................................................... 6
the suburb’s best baklava, with opinion                  Victorian drops like Bress cider or wines            Robbies Stein .....................................13
divided between Balha’s Pastry (761-763                  from Don Lewis’ new label Tar and Roses.             Rumi ...................................................19
                                                                                                              Sarkies with Love ...............................10
Sydney Rd, (03) 9383 3944) and 14-year-                     Brunswick even has a cheesery, with
                                                                                                              Small Block ........................................19
old veteran El Fayha Sweets (648 Sydney                  Mamma Lucia (50 Weston St, (03) 9381                 Smith & Maloney Green Grocers ........19
Rd, (03) 9386 6974). We could tell you                   2277) making fresh bocconcini, pecorino              Sugardough Panificio .........................19
which of these super-sweet marriages of                  and ricotta. The street is also home to a            Synergy Enterprises ...........................13
wispy pastry and pistachio, cashew,                      Toby’s Estate roaster and cafe (29 Weston            Tabet’s ................................................. 4 
                                                                                                              The Alderman .....................................19
almond or hazelnuts we prefer, but then                  St, (03) 9009 5462). Not that it’s the first; that
                                                                                                              Tiba’s ................................................... 7
you wouldn’t have the fun of doing your                  honour probably belongs to Negrita Coffee            Toby’s Estate  ......................................20
own test! Just don’t miss El Fayha’s znood               (340 Victoria St, (03) 9380 4663), which sells       Tom Phat ............................................11
esset, or “lady’s arm” – plump spring roll               a dizzying array of beans. d.                                           .
                                                                                                              Tre Espresso  ....................................... 7 
shapes filled with clotted cream.                        For more info, visit: sydneyroad.com.au.             Zia Teresa ...........................................21



66  delicious.

				
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