Thailand Traveller Digest
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Fold 2
andaman coast
Ko muK
The impressive limestone karst
coast of Trang Province shelters
several sublime islands. The isle
of Ko Muk is home to spectacular
Hat Farang (aka Hat Sai Yao) – a
calming stretch of sand where
a long-tail boat on jade water kisses a perfect beach.
the beach at hat Further north, Tham Morakot
farang on Ko muk
(Emerald Cave) is a rock tunnel
leading – at low tide – to a small
MINI GUIDE beach surrounded by cliffs on all Jewel-blue sea and the palest of
sand at sunrise beach on Ko lipe
sides (tourismthailand.org)
THAILAND’S Ko TaruTao marine
naTional parK
Ko lanTa
Ko Lanta is a crucible of cultures,
ISLANDS
One of the most unspoiled mixing Buddhist temples,
regions in all of Thailand, this slender minarets and chow lair
park encompasses 51 islands, (sea gypsy) villages. Northern
including Ko Tarutao itself, beaches are busy but fun, with
‘Ko’ means island in Thai – the very word covered in old-growth jungle. more mellow ones to the south.
Long-tail boat tours take in The cave complex of Tham Khao
conjures up dreamy beaches, huts in the islands home to hornbills, langur Maikaeo conceals a subterranean
shade of a coconut palm, fantastic rock monkeys and fishing cats. Ko Lipe pool and chambers as large as
is the most developed island, but cathedrals – local guides can
formations and undersea gardens. Hop in also has the widest choice of arrange treks (around £4), and
a long-tail boat and cast off the moorings. accommodation and beautiful
beaches (dnp.go.th/parkreserve,
resort hotels can arrange
transport and motorcycle hire
kohlipethailand.com). (lantainfo.com, kolanta.net).
southern gulf northeast gulf Fold 1
Ko Tao Ko sameT
A scuba-diving honeypot off the Within weekending distance of
crystalline Gulf Coast, Ko Tao is Bangkok, Ko Samet is popular
also the easiest and cheapest spot with Thais and visitors alike, but
around to learn dive basics. The is surprisingly underdeveloped
Japanese Gardens, to the island’s all the same. A coastal footpath
northwest, is an ideal dive site for runs the four-mile length of this
beginners, with plenty of coral, skinny island, skirting one lovely
turtles, stingrays and pufferfish. cove after another. Sunset at the
Big Blue Diving is a recommended northern end brings late-night
mid-sized local diving school parties and karaoke sessions;
(bigbluediving.com; Hat Sai Ri; Typical market stall offerings in things get quieter the further Take a jungle trek on Ko chang
ban bo phut on Ko samui to the ban Kwan elephant camp
four-day beginner courses £185). south you go (kosamet.net).
Ko samui Ko pha-ngan Ko chang Ko KuT
Fairly large and multi-faceted Things are changing on Ko With steep, jungle-covered peaks Coconut palms outnumber
enough to fit in luxury yoga Pha-ngan. Parties still take place erupting from the sea, Ko Chang buildings on the easternmost
Tear out page here then fold along dotted lines
retreats as well as backpacker on the beach at Hat Rin every full retains a rugged spirit despite its island in Thailand, just 20 miles
shanties, Ko Samui is particularly moon, but the island as a whole is package-holiday reputation. This by sea from Cambodia, where a
blessed with places to eat, not creeping upmarket. The beaches is largely down to its accessible secluded, unhurried atmosphere
least the many kow gaang (rice of the north and east are still wilderness: island treks allow you pervades everything. There’s not
and curry) roadside stalls. The relatively secluded (Hat Khuat, to explore forests filled with birds, much nightlife or even dining,
town of Hat Chaweng meanwhile or Bottle Beach, is a top choice), monkeys, lizards and beautiful but the beaches of the western
is home to the Samui Institute of and the jungle interior rewards flowers. Evolution Tours offers side, Hat Khlong Chao above all,
Thai Culinary Arts, which has exploration with four, year-round one-day trips that include a are among Thailand’s finest. Two
daily cooking courses and classes waterfalls. Change out of beach waterfall swim and a stop at an inland waterfalls are good short
in the arts of carving fruit and clothes to visit one of the 20 wat elephant camp (evolutiontour. hiking destinations, with pools to
vegetables into intricate floral (temples) – Wat Pho, near Ban com; treks from £28). cool off in (kohkood.com).
designs (sitca.net; Hat Chaweng; Tai, offers a herbal sauna for
three-hour courses £40). about £1 (kohphangan.com). Turn over for map and number locaTions
December 2012 lonely planet Traveller 135
mini guide
Thailand’s islands
Sights & Activities Where to stay
Thailand essentials The know-how
TranSPorT Thai TaLK
Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport Basic traveller speak to help ToP TiP
is served by BA and Thai Airways you on your way Thais set great store by
from Heathrow (from £820; politeness. If you’re
hello
thaiairways.co.uk). Air-hopping Sa-wat-dee tempted to try out a few
CoMpILeD By jASoN rILey & rory GouLDING, wITH CoNTrIBuTIoNS FroM AuSTIN BuSH, BrANDoN preSSer
around the country remains an phrases, one way to add a
excuse me (to get past)
polite touch and soften your
AND CeLeSTe BrASH. pHoToGrApHS: IMAGeBroKer/ALAMy, LooK/ALAMy, ANDy SeLINGer/SuperSToCK,
affordable option, with operators Kor a-pai
speech is to end a question
including Bangkok Airways and Thank you
or statement with the word
Air Asia. Most routes originate Korp kun
‘krap’ (if you’re a man) or
from Bangkok (Ko Samui from how are you?
‘ka’ (if you’re a woman).
£140; bangkokair.com). Ko Sa-bai dee mai
Samui is the only island in this The Library brings an unfussy Fine. and you?
aesthetic to Ko Samui
guide you can fly to. Ferries serve Sa-bai dee (krap/ka) laa-ou FurTher reading
the other islands from mainland kun la (male/female speaker) Lonely Planet’s Thailand
transport hubs, including Trat, Sri Lanta is a decadent yet do you speak english? (£17.99) offers thorough
Surat Thani, Chumphon, Krabi ecologically responsible resort Kun poot pah-sah ang-grit coverage and insights into
and Trang, often with a dedicated on Ko Lanta where naturalistic dai mai the whole country, while
bus service to the relevant pier. wooden villas dot wild gardens i don’t understand Thailand’s Islands & Beaches
It’s best to check your guidebook stretching from the beach to (Pom/di-chan) mai kow jai (£14.99) focuses on coastal
for specific details and providers. a landscaped jungle hillside (male/female speaker) regions. You can download
(srilanta.com; 111 Moo 6, goodbye individual chapters from both
THoMAS STANKIewICz/AGe FoToSToCK
Where To STay Hat Khlong Nin; from £125). Lah gorn guides at lonelyplanet.com
Lemon yellow bungalows sit The Library, by Chaweng (£2.99). The Tourism
peacefully beside the sea at Ko beach on Ko Samui, is decorated Authority of Thailand
Chang’s KB Resort. Listen to the in sparkling white – except for (tourismthailand.org) has
lapping of the surf while kids the dramatic red-tiled pool. The information and lists events,
construct mega-cities in the sand. resort is a study in pared-back and thaitravelblogs.com is a
Go for an air-conditioned villa if and contemplative design, with good source for insights into
possible (kbresort.com; 10/16 iMacs in every room (thelibrary. the country.
Moo 4; from £30). co.th; 14/1 Moo 2; from £270).
136 Lonely Planet Traveller December 2012
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