16 freaky cuisines
Many San Franciscans consider themselves intrepid food adventurers, continually seeking the exotic, the weird, and the outré — they cut their teeth on Indian pizza from Zante, they party down with the Senegalese at Bissap Baobab, they are open-minded for trying the raw food thing at Café Gratitude, and they even order a personal bowl of tripe at A16. Hungry for more funky? This lineup begins with a couple of adventurous dishes at wellknown restaurants, then ramps it up from there. Buckle up. (Marcia "the Tablehopper" Gagliardi, www.tablehopper.com)
YANK SING
Scene: Sunday afternoon at Yank Sing, a fleet of dim sum carts circling the room like beer flies at a frat house kegger. You could go for the scrumptious, broth-filled Shanghai dumplings, or siu mai, but when was the last time you nibbled on a pile of tasty chicken feet? Exactly. 49 Stevenson, SF. (415) 541-4949; One Rincon Center, 101 Spear, SF. (415) 957-9300. www.yanksing.com
KOKKARI
An unexpected dish served in Kokkari's upscale yet approachable atmosphere is the grilled lamb tongue skewer with capers. A friend thinks tongue is the new foie gras — it's so good, you won’t be the only one who suddenly got quiet. Don't miss the headcheese, made with the pig's whole head and feet. Oink! 200 Jackson, SF. (415) 981-0983, www.kokkari.com
MOCHICA
Ever tried beef heart? Reenact an outtake from Apocalypse Now at this authentic and affordable Peruvian restaurant on a desolate stretch of SoMa. You'll find anticuchos (including the beef hearts) and zingy food that features a variety of ajis (chiles) you also might not have ever tasted, plus monster-size corn. 937 Harrison, SF. (415) 278-0480, www.mochicasf.com
ESPETUS CHURRASCARIA
A fellow meat lover regaled us with tales of eating at a churrascaria in Brazil, where spit after spit of meat is brought to you and carved onto your plate until you turn the dial sitting on your table to red, which signifies, "If I eat one more bite of sirloin, you better bring me a bucket”; turn that puppy back to green, and the onslaught of meat continues. (Green, however, does not mean you're ready for a wafer-thin mint.) For a flat fee (dinner is $34.95, lunch is less), you get an all-access pass to the salad bar and an all-you-can-eat meat party delivered to your table by gauchos with jaunty scarves. 1686 Market, SF. (415) 552-8792, www.espetus.com
MEDICINE
Zen Buddhist monk food? While not the most exciting cuisine per se, it's certainly different: no meat is served (uh, sorry, no teriyaki chicken), and nothing from the lily family — such as garlic and onion — is used. The food is refreshingly subtle and made with quality ingredients, many of them new to
western palates, like natto (fermented soy beans), handmade seitan from a temple in Japan, and yuba, a delicious tofu skin. And while tempura isn't an oddity, I've certainly never had corn prepared that way anywhere else but here. Crocker Galleria, 161 Sutter, SF. (415) 677-4405, www.medicinerestaurant.com
DARBAR
Most city dwellers are rather well-versed in Indian — well, the greatest hits, like tikka masala and saag paneer. Take a break from your extended mix of Shalimar and Pakwan and make some new indie tracks to Pakistan, via the friendly Darbar. Here you’ll find all kinds of uncommon dishes, like chapli kebab (a crunchy patty of minced meat, lentils, and herbs) and achar gosht (goat and peppers with curry and mango pickles). It's halal, and it’s cheap. Extra bonus: it's BYOB, but they'll still pop open your wine for you. 1412 Polk, SF. (415) 359-1236
EL HUARACHE AZTECA
East Bay residents are pretty darned spoiled with the bounty of Mexican treasures on International Boulevard, and this place proves it. You'll feast on the most delectable sopes and huaraches (not the shoe, silly — these come with a mini-Tenochtitlán of toppings), plus Central Mexican dishes like the addictive barbacoa and chicken tinga. Don't miss the guava licuado. 3842 International Blvd., Oakl. (510) 533-2395
AVATAR'S PUNJABI BURRITOS
I can't personally vouch for the food, but someone whose palate I trust told me about these vegetarian Indian burritos in Marin. I also hear there's some mighty Jamaican and Mexican influence in those naan-wrapped bundles. (What are they smoking in Marin?) Since it's on my list of "funky places to try," I thought I should share. Have at it. 15 Madrona, Mill Valley. (415) 381-8293
CHAMPA GARDEN
Come to this tiny joint in Oakland for new-to-you dishes of Southeast Asian food. It's waaay off the beaten path (thanks, Anglo Tipster, for the info!) and has an extensive and ever-changing menu of supercheap-tastic Thai, Laotian, Lue, and Vietnamese dishes. I have three words for you: rice ball salad. I’ve never had anything like it, and it haunts me with its ham-studded deliciousness. The heavily loaded condiment tray on each table is evidence enough that this place means business. The option of ordering Navarro wine is an unexpected treat. 2102 Eighth Ave., Oakl. (510) 238-8819
MAKI RESTAURANT
Isn't it time you give those California rolls a rest? How about trying something cool-sounding, like wappa meshi? It's a delectable treat of steamed fish, meat, or vegetables over rice. Custard freaks will moon over the chawan mushi. Maki is expensive, but then again, the best Japanese food is rarely cheap. It's also tiny as hell, so just pretend you're in Japan. 1825 Post, SF. (415) 921-5215
ZUSHI-PUZZLE
This sushi restaurant has a funny cult of believers. Some swear it's the best, while others simply shrug and head over to the counter at Anzu. Not only is the name bizarre and some of the combinations beyond innovative, but
it also has one of the widest varieties of fish you've never had, like pencil fish, butterfish, the somewhat rare live scallop, and Japanese uni. Sit at the sushi bar for the full fish experience. 1910 Lombard, SF. (415) 931-9319, www.zushipuzzle.com
OYAJI
For a totally different (and most likely drunken) experience, check out this Japanese restaurant in the Outer Richmond, known for its authentic izakaya (pub-style) atmosphere and dishes, the original small plates. Head over with a group, since you'll share a bunch of dishes and at least one bottle of shochu — pour it on the rocks, add a little water, and squeeze some lemon to your liking. Be sure to cheer the boisterous and downright mischievous chef, Hideki, who just might help himself to some of your shochu, whether you offer it or not. (You should.) The menu will tempt you with an array of kushiyaki (skewered meat and fish) and butano kakuni (pork belly with mustard and savory custard). And how ’bout some yamakakke (grated mountain potatoes over tuna sashimi)? Be sure to take a cab — you'll come out of here weaving. 3123 Clement, SF. (415) 379-3604, www.oyajirestaurant.com
EL TONAYENSE TACO TRUCKS
The next time someone tells you to get a brain, head on over to any of the three el Tonayense trucks for some tasty sesos tacos! Then cruise down Harrison to another truck for lengua (tongue) and the third for cabeza (head and cheek). Remarkably tasty. And cheap. You can also scarf some tripitas (tripe) or buche (neck). Harrison at 14th St., 19th St., and 22nd St., SF
JAI YUN
I held a dinner party here for 21 people, and you'd never guess from the shoddy interior what delicacies can emerge from the kitchen. Jai Yun is a rarity for San Francisco. It's Shanghai food and downright exotic, offering up fare like abalone with egg, jellyfish salad, and even duck tongue. You have to make a reservation in advance, and since it's prix fixe, you must prespecify the amount you want to spend (starting at $45 and going up to $100). Jai Yun is cash only and BYOB, so bring some good vino to go with the bounty. Go with friends, and don't be late. 923 Pacific, SF. (415) 981-7438, jaiyun.menuscan.com
OLD MANDARIN ISLAMIC RESTAURANT
Perhaps one of the most singular restaurants in this lineup is this kooky spot serving Beijing-style Islamic food. It's definitely a dive, but once you're there, the hot pot broth is what you'll want to dive into, especially on a typical foggy night. Lamb is in the house, such as the cumin-flavored Mandarin lamb, hot braised lamb ribs, lamb with green onion ... but in the case of the lamb hot pot, you actually prepare it yourself! A plate of raw ingredients comes out, and you cook them in your personal strainer in the flavorful broth, along with tofu, cabbage, vermicelli, and any other items you've ordered. Like lamb testicles — no joke. You then dip your hot pot treasures into your own dipping sauce. Come with a group: like a hot tub, it's more fun with many. Other winners include the onion pancake and the delicious yet heavy Peking beef. It's halal — so don't expect any pork or beer (although you can bring your own brewskis if you like). 3132 Vicente, SF. (415) 564-3481
SPICES! AND SPICES! II
Some like it hot, and if that's personally the case, this duo of restaurants is custom-made for you. Everything glows a menacing red or deep orange, and it's not because of all the neon. Menu items are peppered with terms like "Fire Burst!," "Explosive," and "Flaming." Spices! is also known for the stinky — as in stinky tofu. How about 20 kinds? This is not for the faint of heart: it smells like a teenage boy's pair of Converse gone way wrong, with some hobo armpit and rotting pet thrown in for good measure. If you're up for the challenge, I salute you. Otherwise, go for ants up a tree (which is actually vermicelli with ground pork plus some spices, you betcha) or beef in spicy-ass oil. The decor is way pop, and so is the music. Spices! II is more family-style, with additional seafood dishes and tasty numbers like cumin lamb and twice-cooked Chinese bacon. For some, the Japanese pop music videos prove a welcome distraction while their mouths are in flames. Spices!: 294 Eighth Ave., SF. (415) 752-8884; Spices! II: 291 Sixth Ave., SF. (415) 752-8885 SFBG