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Equipment Safety Walk around

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					1.    Bucket: Make sure the bucket is the right size and type for your intended applications. Check for
      dents, damage, cracks or welds.
2.    Pins and Bushings: On the dipper and bucket pins and bushings, look for signs of regular
      greasing.
3.    Boom and Stick: Check for structural damage, cracks or welds on the boom and stick.
4.    Hydraulic Cylinders: Hydraulic cylinders should be smooth and blemish- free. Presence of oil
      indicates a scratched cylinder or the need for new packing inside the cylinder housing.
5.    Pins and Bushings: The boom arm pins and bushings should show evidence of regular greasing.
6.    Front Idler: The front idler should have some room left to extend forward on the track frame.
7.    Roller and Pin Clearance: Check clearance between the bottom of the guide rollers and the top of
      the track pins.
8.    Roller Frame: Inspect roller frame for cracks or welds.
9.    Pins and Bushings: Pins and bushings loosen up over time, causing the tracks to sag.
10.   Final Drive: Inspect final drive and sprocket for wear or leaks.
11.   Ring gear and Turntable: Check the ring gear and turntable for deflection. Rotate the cab and
      boom arm to detect any hesitation or roughness.
12.   Engine: Open the service access doors and inspect the engine, dipsticks and sight gauges. Check
      the hydraulic pump, hoses and valve bank for leaks.
13.   Cab: Inspect the overall condition of the cab. Note any broken or cracked glass, dented sheet
      metal or structural rust.
1.   Tires: Make sure all tires are the correct size. Measure and record tread depth for each one.
     Examine treads and sidewalls for tears and other damage. Remember to check the inner sidewalls
     as well. Also, look at the inside of all wheels for leaking axle seals.
2.   Rear: With the bed raised and safety bar engaged, check the rear frame, bed hinge pins, wear
     pads, differential and driveshaft for any distorted areas, cracks or welds. Also examine the
     underside of the bed and the emergency and parking brake systems.
3.   Dump Cylinders: The dump cylinders are exposed and can be damaged during loading
     operations. They should be closely checked for impact damage.
4.   Articulation: The articulation joint and steering cylinders must be examined closely. Watch for
     excessive play in the components as they move through their normal range of motion.
5.   Cab Rear: There are several important components mounted on the back of the cab, including
     hydraulic fluid sight glasses. The steering accumulator and transmission pump are also located
     here and should be checked for leaks.
6.   Engine: Engine inspection should include a check of all fluid levels. Also note the condition of all
     belts and hoses as well as the radiator and exhaust system. Keep an eye out for excessive oil leaks.
7.   Cab: Inspect the overall condition of the cab. Note any broken or cracked glass, dented sheet
     metal or structural rust.
1.  Cab: Make sure the glass is intact and the ROPS hasn’t been damaged. The seat should be in
    good working condition and should rotate easily. Loader and bucket commands should respond
    quickly to controls. Heating and air conditioning should be operating correctly. Check service and
    parking brake.
2. Engine: Engine oil should be free of dirt and grit. Inspect the engine for blow-by. The oil filter and
    air filters should be clean. Check the radiator for antifreeze. Determine which parts (if any) of the
    engine have been rebuilt.
3. Tires and Axles: Inspect the tread and look for gashes on the sidewalls. Make sure kingpins are
    greased and fit tightly. There should also be oil in the axles. All lugs should be present and fit
    tightly.
4. Hydraulic Cylinders: If scratches are present, oil will eventually begin to leak out. A loss of pressure
    will hinder the machine’s performance.
5. Loader Bucket: Inspect the cutting edge. There should be no more than 50-percent wear.
6. Frame: Look for welds and other signs of damage. If the frame is bent, chances are the machine
    was involved in a roll-over accident. Cracks indicate the machine has been overstressed.
7. Stabilizers: Make sure the stabilizer cylinders are in working order and that there are no hydraulic
    leaks — the stabilizer cylinders are damage-prone. The stabilizer pads should be intact. Check
    cylinder rods for scratches.
8. Pins and Bushings: Examine all hinge parts, particularly the kingpin. Rust buildup around these
    areas indicates the machine has been sitting idle for an extended period of time.
9. Backhoe Boom, Arm and Bucket: Check for non-manufacturer welds, which would indicate the
    arm or boom has been repaired. A broken arm or boom will likely break again. Bucket teeth
    should be in good shape and all bolts in place.
10. Hydraulic Hoses: Look for signs of pinching and excessive wear. If the hoses are dry and brittle,
    they need to be replaced.
1.   ROPS: Check ROPS for dents or welds.
2.   Transmission: Transmissions can be fully checked only by being operated. Does the dozer steer
     and brake properly? On clutch brake systems, feel if the machine brakes and steers left and right
     equally and thoroughly. With hydrostatic systems, in addition to the above, check for noise and
     vibration.
3.   Engine: The engine compartment should be checked for signs of leaks, both below the engine,
     and around head gaskets and valve cover gaskets.
4.   Covers: Examine the dozer for an excessive number of structural dents, and note any major welds.
     Both could be signs of abuse or severe-use applications.
5.   Hydraulic Cylinders: Check all hydraulic cylinders for leaks, and note any dents or damaged areas
     on the rams.
6.   Blade: On blades, make sure the unit is solid, without structural damage. Note any wear on the
     teeth or edges. Make sure there’s enough shim left protecting the structure. If blade face appears
     rippled, it may need to be reskinned.
7.   Push Beams: Push beams are subject to a great deal of stress, and should be examined for any
     structural weaknesses (cracks) or repairs (welds). Make sure that any welds are done properly.
8.   Roller Frame: Check roller frame for cracks and welds.
9.   Undercarriage: Since the undercarriage is such a critical cost component of a dozer, consider
     paying for a certified inspection.
1.   Engine: Inspect all engine fluid levels and note condition of each type of fluid. Note any visible oil
     or coolant leaks. Examine exhaust and air intake system for leaks and damage. Check condition of
     radiator and front grille; examine bumper for damage.
2.   Battery: Inspect battery compartment. Make sure batteries are in good condition and the right
     size. Check any sight glasses or dipsticks in this area. Make sure fuel tank and hydraulic fluid tank
     are in good condition and leak-free.
3.   Cab: Examine cab interior for overall condition. Make sure all safety systems are present and
     working. Cab and instrument glass should be unbroken. No drill holes should be present in ROPS.
     While in cab, engage pan in ground and watch linkage for extra play.
4.   Articulation: Inspect gooseneck and articulation joints for excessive wear, damage and play. All
     hydraulic cylinders should be in good condition with no extra play in their range of motion.
     Examine all visible rod sections for damage. Make sure all hydraulic lines and connections are in
     good condition and no leaks are present. Also, note any welds or plating on the neck or draft
     arms.
5.   Cutting Edge: Examine cutting edge, pan and bowl for damaged areas and missing bolts.
6.   Chain: Check the chain closely for any broken bars or links, or missing pins. Make sure the
     elevator rollers turn freely. Check the bowl lift cylinders for leaks and to make sure they’re not
     scratched or damaged in any other way. Inspect the flights for serious damage and to see if they
     need to be regrousered. Make sure there are no weld cracks present or bolts missing from the
     mounting brackets, and that the brackets are undamaged.
7.   Speed Reducer: Examine speed reducer for hydraulic leaks, damage and overall condition. Keep
     an eye out for any paint cracks in the weld lines in this area on both sides of the scraper.
8.   Tires: Inspect the tread depth of all four tires. Note overall tread condition and confirm all tires
     match. Look for tears and other excessive damage to sidewalls and treads. Inspect brake systems.
     Note leakage and overall condition of rotors, drums, pads and linings.
9.   Stinger Structure: Check the stinger structure extending outward from the bowl for excessive
     push/pull damage. Pay special attention to the weld lines in this area for paint cracks and other
     signs of overstressing.
1.   Steering: With the engine running, depress the clutch and turn the steering wheel both to the left
     and the right. If you feel the clutch pedal kick up on your foot as you do this, the cushion valve on
     the grader could be going bad, eventually locking up the steering.
2.   Hydraulics: Watch for leaks around hydraulic cylinders and damage to the rods and pins. There
     should be no extra play between the stirrup arms and hydraulic cylinders as the grader is raised
     off the ground.
3.   Front Wheels: With the front end 6 inches off the ground, both front wheels should spin and
     move left and right freely with no extra play in the radius arms. To check axle center pin and axle
     pivot point, push one of the wheels down hard: The axle should move freely, but not bounce up
     after hitting the ground.
4.   Circle: The circle bears the brunt of force during grading, and must be examined closely. Pay extra
     attention to the teeth on the circle: Even small amounts of wear can disrupt fine grading work and
     be expensive to replace. Have a helper move the circle through its full range of motions and
     watch for excessive play on the circle turn cranks and associated linkage systems. Look for cracks,
     welds or plates on the circle or A-frame.
5.   Moldboard: The moldboard should also be closely examined for excessive wear, both top and
     bottom. Make sure all cutting edge bolts are present. The slide rails at the top of the moldboard
     should be smooth, without any impact damage.
6.   Alignment: Eyeball the machine from the rear and make sure it is standing up straight and not
     leaning to one side. Take a tape measure and check the distance from the tandems to the frame
     for all rear wheels. All measurements should be consistent.
7.   Tires: Inspect the tread depth of all four tires. Note overall tread condition and confirm all tires
     match. Look for tears and other excessive damage to sidewalls and treads. Inspect brake systems.
     Note leakage and overall condition of rotors, drums, pads and linings.
8.   Cab: Examine cab interior for overall condition. Make sure all safety systems are present and
     working. Cab and instrument glass should be unbroken.
1.   ROPS: Look over the tops and edges of the ROPS. Look for any angular dents that can alert you if
     the machine has ever been overturned, or vertical impact dents which are scars from loads being
     dropped on the roof of the ROPS.
2.   Engine: Inspect the engine compartment for obvious oil leaks or signs of recent steam cleaning.
     Make sure the battery is the right size, check the oil level on the dipstick for cleanliness and the
     presence of water, and take a look at the air filter and air intake system. Check the exhaust system
     for leaks and make sure the engine radiator core is clean and leak free. Also check the hydraulic
     oil sight glass for cleanliness and water.
3.   Tires: Inspect the tread depth of the tires. Note the overall tread condition, and confirm that all
     four tires match. Pay special attention to the sidewalls, inspecting for damage and overall
     strength. Check to see if tires are foam-filled.
4.   Chain Drive: Inspect any chain-drive access plate(s) for excessive oil leakage. If you hear grinding
     or there is any hesitation when test-running the loader, you may have to remove these plates and
     inspect the condition of the drive chains or tighten them.
5.   Front: Check the arms, linkage and hydraulic lines on the front of the loader. Look for any cracks
     along welds, which indicate machine abuse. Use your level to make sure the arms are straight. See
     if the joints and linkage are in good condition and have been greased recently.
6.   Boom Arms: Are the boom arms and hydraulic cylinders straight? There should be very little or no
     sign of lateral movement and no paint cracks along weld lines. Take a level and place it along the
     edge of the boom arms to double-check their integrity.
1.   Cab: Check the overall condition. Are all the switches and gauges in proper working order? Note
     any broken glass, torn seats, or worn floor mats.
2.   Engine: Engine inspection includes checking all vital fluids, drive belts and electrical systems. Be
     watchful for oil leaks and remember to check underneath the engine as well. Also check the
     radiator and inspect the coolant if the engine is cold.
3.   Under the Body: Raise the body and check the powertrain and frame rails. Also check the lift
     cylinder for leaks and damage and inspect the bottom of the dump body for stresses or damaged
     support structures.
4.   Tires: Note the age and general conditions of all the truck’s tires. Also look for uneven wear
     patterns, which can tip you off to potential front and rear suspension problems.
5.   Body: Body inspection includes a visual search for metal fatigue and cracks, as well as a tailgate
     and locking pin assessment. Also make sure the body floor is smooth and that the lift hinge
     assembly is tight.
6.   Tarp: Check tarp and tarp rack for condition and operation.
1.   Operator’s Station: The general condition of the operator’s station can give you a clue as to how
     the rest of the machine has been treated. Turn on the machine and make sure all gauges and
     instruments are in working order. Honk the horn, check the back-up alarm and turn on the lights.
     If the roller has dual amplitude or high frequency modes, check to see that all modes work.
2.   Engine: Check the drum shell thickness on both smooth drum and padfoot units. On smooth
     drum models, examine the drum for any pitting or scarring that can affect compaction
     smoothness. On padfoot compactors, note the condition of the feet, and whether a foot
     replacement is required.
3.   Tires: Measure the tread depth of both tires with a tire-measurement tool and check it against the
     guidebook specs for that particular brand of tire. Look for any major cuts or cracks.
4.   Articulation: Check to see if the articulation joint has been lubricated regularly, and the condition
     of the pins and bushings. Operate the machine to see if there is any excessive front-and-back
     flexing, which is a sign of over wear in this area.
5.   Drum: With both air-cooled and water-cooled engines, look for cracks or oil leaks on the heads or
     valve covers. Check the fan and fan belt and note their condition. Also check the filters to see if
     they look like they’ve been changed.
1.   Engine: Pull the dipstick and run oil through your fingers to check for grit. If the oil has a milky
     appearance, the machine likely has a bad head gasket that has leaked antifreeze.
2.   Turntable: Use a flashlight to check for leaks and loose bolts behind the main valve bank, where
     the gearbox meets the turntable bearing. Carefully study the turntable bearing’s teeth for any
     signs of bending or breakage. Test swing box wear by shifting the boom from side-to-side. Any
     movement beyond 1.5 inches is excessive – the result of broken gears or turntable slack.
3.   Hydraulics: Hydraulic leaks are the major concern on the chassis. Note any leaks on the drive
     motors, caused by loose-fitting or blown oil rings and indicative of impact damage. Also inspect
     the steering linkage and its hoses for any signs of leaks.
4.   Power Track: While the machine is running, extend the power track until cables and hoses from
     the upper control box are fully extended. This will expose any hydraulic hose leaks or broken links.
5.   Boom: Use a flashlight to spot leaks within the boom structure. If you find any paint cracks, check
     the boom for a bent appearance. Paint cracks and visible bends are both the result of basket
     overload. With one hand on the basket, bounce it up and down feeling for side-to-side
     movement. This will reveal the condition of the wear pads, located at the front of each
     telescoping section.
1.   Tires: Check and measure all four tires. Unless a tire has been retreaded, check for tread wear by
     using a tire measuring tool. Refer to the guide published by the tire manufacturer to find new tire
     tread depth, and make a comparison to determine remaining tread depth.
2.   Brakes/axles: On dry disc brakes, look at the shape of the wear plates to make sure the brakes
     haven’t been run without them. On axles, get under the machine to determine if the oscillation
     bushing is out or worn, noticeable by a space at the top and bottom of the bushing.
3.   Center pin (articulation joint): While another person operates the machine, look for up-and-down
     movement in the top and bottom center pins, which could indicate wear.
4.   Frame: Inspect the frame for cracks, taking note of these problem areas: steering cylinder pin,
     bellcrank and where the front axle is bolted on the frame. Also look for rust.
5.   Coupler/bucket: Look for wear on the bucket sides and cutting edge. Make sure the bottom wear
     plates don’t have excessive wear. Also, check for welds or cracks.
6.   Linkage: Working with another person who operates the machine, check for excessive sideways
     movement in all the pin areas: boom, tilt cylinder, tilt rod end, boom cylinder, lift rod ends, tilt link
     pins, top bucket, bottom bucket and bellcrank.
7.   Engine: Look for oil leaks and water leaking under the head. Check the oil for traces of water or
     antifreeze. Pull out both air filters for evidence of dirt. Find out whether it’s ever been rebuilt,
     replaced or had major repairs, and who did the work. Watch for excessive smoke and listen for
     unusual noises.
8.   Cab: Record the machine hours, and check whether all the “little things” work: all gauges, levers,
     windshield wipers, switches, heating and air conditioning. Is the seat torn? Does it move easily?
     Do all doors and windows open and shut? Are all electronics in working order? Make sure the oil
     pressure light goes out. Also, check service and parking brake.
9.   Cooling system: Examine the radiator cooler core to make sure it’s damage-free. See if any of the
     individual radiator tubes have been damaged; you may have to have the radiator re-cored. Also
     check for leaks. If the machine is air-conditioned, make sure the compressor is in working order.
     Never open a radiator if it feels warm.

				
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Description: health and safety hm pipeline safety construction safety