Get documents about "What's Next for the Vermont Cheese Council
Document Sample
Spring/Summer 2008 • Vol. 8, Issue 1
What’s Next for the
Vermont Cheese Council?
M
embers of the Vermont Cheese Council gathered community support.
for their Annual Meeting on February 21, 2008 to After serving as President for two and a half years,
look back and look forward as the VCC entered Jon Wright of Taylor Farm stepped down. New Officers
its second decade. Formed in 1997 by a handful of were elected at the meeting. They are: President, Laini
Vermont-based cheesemakers to” advance the production Fondiller, Lazy Lady Farm; Vice-President, Mark Fischer,
and image of premier cheese from Vermont through continued on page 2
public and industry educational activities,”
the Council has seen its membership and
influence swell. Today, the Council represents
38 cheesemaking members (see current list
inside) who collectively produce well over
100 varieties of cheeses totaling more than
a million pounds per year. As the recognized
epicenter of the nation’s small batch, artisan
cheese making movement, Vermont and its
Cheese Council members has been embraced
as the premier source for quality, award
winning, unique cheeses along the eastern
seaboard and beyond.
The well-attended 2008 Vermont Cheese Council annual meeting.
Approximately 30 members of the council,
including four charter members — Cabot
Creamery, Vermont Butter & Cheese
Company, Grafton Village Cheese, and Lazy
Lady Farm — gathered to discuss where the
Council has been and where it is going. The
discussion, led by facilitator, Lynda Brushett
from the Cooperative Development Institute,
focused on building on the successes of the
past decade to provide more opportunity
for networking, increasing membership,
providing technical assistance, and better
addressing distribution, sales and consumer
education moving forward. Collectively, the n
Council also discussed embracing an agenda see
as w
of “giving back” to the communities in which
ses Sho
they operate through product donations and
h AY ee
t C OD
on T
rm the
Ve on
www.vtcheese.com
President’s Message
A
“ sk not what your cheesemaker cheese movement. Another important
can do for you; ask what you can area of activity for the council is technical
do for your cheesemaker?” And services and risk management. This area is
with that petition, we launch our new critical for an organization of our size and
membership campaign. The Vermont growth potential. We need to work hard
Cheese Council began in 1997 with 10 at finding funding to have a team working
cheesemakers. We are now nearing 40 with the VCC members to create protocol
cheesemaking members and a dozen and measures for assuring the safety of
more interested parties. This is great our products. We want to support all our
news for us and even better news for cheesemakers and are particularly sensitive
you. But with growth come a greater to protecting the rights of our cheesemakers
responsibility and a greater work load. who make raw milk cheeses. So this leads
We are in the process of bringing on us back to our opening entreaty. It leads us
our first, paid staff member who will back to YOU. Your support, as a member, is
assume the title of Executive Director. Many of key to the future of Vermont Cheese Council. Within the
you are probably already familiar with Ellen Ecker year, this wonderful newsletter will be for members only
Ogden, though her publication, The Vermont Cheese in order to fine tune our articles and to create a pertinent
Book. For others interested in the inner workings of mailing list. We hope you will join us and thank you in
the Vermont Cheese Council, Ellen will continue to advance for your support.
serve as the light at the end of the tunnel - someone
to answer the phone, respond to emails, organize — Laini Fondiller, President
events, respond to cheesemakers and raise funds to Lazy Lady Farm
help us continue our growth and impact on the artisan
What’s Next for the VCC?
continued from page 1
New Advanced Cheesemaking
Certificate Program Offered
Woodcock Farm; Secretary Nancy
T
he Advanced Cheesemaking Certificate Program being offered by
Hofer, Maplebrook Farm and
the Vermont Institute of Artisan Cheese, located at the University
Treasurer, Andy Kehler of Jasper Hill
of Vermont, consists of seven advanced level courses on technical
Farm.
aspects of cheesemaking. Some classes require prerequisite courses from
Lastly, the issue of how best to
the Cheesemaking Certificate Program. Visiting experts from England,
communicate with constituents
France, Spain and Italy in residence at VIAC offer three-day International
was discussed. Our web site,
Artisan Cheese Practices short courses. By learning traditional approaches
www.vtcheese.com, continues to be
and techniques from international experts, cheesemakers will improve
a primary way of communicating
the quality of their products and become introduced to new products and
with the public. Cutting back on a
processes. Through Cheese and Culture, the origins of European cheeses
printed newsletter in lieu of more
will be explored in a historical and cultural context. Risk Reduction
electronic based communication is
Practices will help cheesemakers manage the food safety threats posed
being contemplated as is creating a
by bacterial pathogens in milk and the cheesemaking environment
new brochure and/or continuing to
through focus on improved sanitation through testing. Advanced Sensory
produce the Cheese Trail Map when
Evaluation will assist cheesemakers and other dairy producers to
significant changes occur. Let us hear
understand sensory evaluation methods used in product development,
your thoughts by visiting our web
marketing and quality assurance to evaluate and understand the sensory
site and clicking on the email option.
quality of a particular product. Cheese Defects will review common
And, while you’re there, consider
causes of problems developed during cheesemaking and aging, allowing
becoming a Friend of the Vermont
cheesemakers to troubleshoot and avoid future problems. Affinage will
Cheese Council so that collectively,
help to demystify the secret of aging cheese. For program information
we can keep bringing you amazing
visit: http://nutrition.uvm.edu/viac/ or call (802) 656-8300.
cheeses from Vermont.
2
New Members
Place Quality Milk Award in Agrimark with sheep’s milk. “Blue Roan” is
Region Nine. Every year since 1976, a soft blue with an earthy sweet
they have received high quality milk complex taste and a creamy buttery
awards from Cabot Creamery. texture. It will be made seasonally
Jericho Hill Farm welcomes with sheep and cows milk, and a
visitors, however, it is essential to modified version “Dapple Blue”
call ahead (802-295-5333) to arrange will be made with cows’ milk in the
a time to meet. Owner Linda Miller winter. The third planned cheese will
warns, “Do not use Mapquest or any be a fresh Fromage Blanc style soft
of the other web based maps. They creamy smooth cheese made with
Jericho Hill Farm
will direct you through the cow Jersey milk.
pasture if you do!” Marisa’s Scottish mom came up
Jericho Hill Farm is a fifth
with the name “Ploughgate”. It is a
generation dairy and maple farm
owned and operated by George and Ploughgate Creamery Scottish Gaelic word that is used to
describe a measure of land. At one
Linda Miller which has been in the
Ploughgate Creamery is a newly time in Scotland land was measured
Miller family since November of 1907.
formed cheesemaking business by how many days it would take a
The story goes that George Nelson
located in Craftsbury Common. team of oxen to plow. The term used
Miller walked up from the train
Princess MacLean and Marisa Mauro was a “ploughgate”.
depot in White River Junction with
are the owners and cheesemakers. For more information, contact
$1,800 sewn into the lining of his
Marisa found her way to cheese- ploughgate@gmail.com.
jacket to buy the lovely hillside farm
where today two delicious Farmstead making by working after school at
Cheeses known as “Jericho Jack” and Woodcock Farm, and then interning
at Shelburne Farms. After that she
Old Member:
“Colby Cheddar” are lovingly made.
The farm’s mission is to produce was never again seen very far from New Owner,
the highest quality milk and cheese
products with as minimal impact on
a dairy sheep, goat or cow. Princess
found herself at Bonnieview Farm
New Name
because as a fiber artist she loves
T
their natural resources as possible. he company that brought a herd
To that end, Jericho Hill Farm cheese sheep and that creative energy
of 40 water buffalo to Vermont
is manufactured entirely from milk quickly took to cheesemaking. She
in 2002 for the purpose of
from the farm’s own cows which is has been working seasonally at
making a traditional mozzarella
gently moved from the milk house to Bonnieview ever since, and at Jasper
cheese has been sold. The Woodstock
the cheese vat using gravity. Hill Farm for the past few winters.
Water Buffalo Company assets,
Jericho Jack is salt water brined They conceived the idea for the
now including 680 water buffalo,
and aged for 60 days and beyond creamery while working together
were purchased from Castle Island
until it has a firm body and soft, at Bonnieview Farm last summer.
Partners in March by Frank Abballe,
smooth texture. It melts beautifully They quickly realized they share
previously of Marc Angelo Foods in
and makes an exquisite macaroni and not only passion for cheesmaking
Toronto. The new, Vermont-based
cheese or grilled cheese sandwich! but also the same dreams of one
company has been renamed Vermont
Jericho Hill’s Colby Cheddar is an day dairy farming with draft horses
Water Buffalo.
old-styled, uncolored Colby which and oxen. They are driven by their
Vermont Water Buffalo will
is cheddared using a stirred-curd ideals of agricultural sustainability as
produce a line of specialty cheeses
process and aged for six to eight well as the terroir of the Northeast
and yogurt using only the premium
months. Kingdom and their rootedness in that
water buffalo milk. Fresh mozzarella
In 1994, Jericho Hill Farm received landscape where they live and make
will continue to be made on site at
the State of Vermont top quality cheese.
the South Woodstock creamery in the
award for pasteurized milk counts. When they begin cheesemaking
authentic Italian style. In addition,
They won the Highest Milk Quality this May they will be making three
Vermont Water Buffalo will partner
Award in both 1995 and 1999; and in types of cheese. “American Cream”
December 2006 received a Second is styled after Camembert but made continued on page 4
3
Vermont Water Buffalo
continued from page 3 VCC Board Expands
with other local cheesemakers to
I
produce aged cheeses. “We are n an effort to bring fresh
open to trying all different types of perspectives to VCC activities, the
cheese and are excited to have the membership voted at its annual
opportunity to work with various meeting to add three non-cheese-
Vermont cheesemakers. We will see making members to its Board of
what works and then continue to Directors. They are:
produce only the very best products,”
states Mr. Abballe. “We want to work Montse Almena-Aliste, PhD,
with the community and utilize is a member of UVM`s Vermont
the many great resources that are Institute for Artisan Cheese (VIAC), Christopher Coutant Wainhouse
already available in Vermont while which supports and strengthens the
also contributing to those offerings.” state`s artisan cheesemakers. Her the January Issue of Edible Green
Batches of water buffalo cheese have current scholarly interests include Mountains. She lives in Brattleboro
already been made at both Crowley consumer’s attitudes toward dairy and is a member of the American
Cheese and Frog City Cheese using products and characterization of Cheese Society, The Vermont Fresh
their own recipes. Plans are also sensory quality of artisan and raw Network and Slow Food USA.
being made to age selected water milk cheeses.
buffalo cheeses in the newly built Among her many professional food Jeff Egan, Cliff House Chef, has
Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm. science accomplishments: helping to worked in various culinary roles
Preliminary products, including develop the first fresh Mozzarella and at Stowe Mountain Resort since
a line of specialty meats, will be yogurts made with water-buffalo milk the winter of 2003. Born in Lowell
available as early as this spring. sold in the US. Dr. Almena-Aliste. She Massachusetts, Jeff began his culinary
The company will initially focus holds a PhD in Food Science from the career in Toronto at the Fairmont
distribution locally in Vermont and University of Santiago de Compostela Royal York and has since worked
New Hampshire; expanding later (Spain) and is a current member of in kitchens ranging from a remote
to other regions in the Northeast. American Dairy Science Association, tree planting camp in Northern
The company also plans to make Institute of Food Technology and the Alberta to a yacht club on Cape
its products available for purchase American Cheese Society. Cod. Upon returning to the United
via their own retail store, location States after a decade in Canada, a
to be determined, and through an rekindled passion for skiing made
online store. Vermont Water Buffalo Stowe Mountain resort a natural fit
products were regionally premiered for Jeff. Having settled here, he found
at the Flavors of the Valley event an ideal place to explore the culinary
at Hartford High School held on possibilities presented by Vermont’s
April 15th and will be available at vibrant local food community. He
local farmers markets throughout lives in Wolcott Vermont and when
this summer and early fall. The not cooking can be found skiing,
company’s headquarters will continue mountain biking eating good cheese
to be located in South Woodstock, and foraging for mushrooms in the
VT. For more information, contact woods of Vermont.
Carey Clifford 802-457-4540 x11; Montse Almena-Aliste
carey@woodstockwaterbuffalo.com;
www.woodstockwaterbuffalo.com. Christopher Coutant Wainhouse
has been the Marketing Director for
Provisions International, located in
Visit our White River Junction, Vermont, for
the past 6 years. Prior to that, she
Cheese Trail Map
worked with food in various venues
on-line at for about 10 years. Christopher
is also a freelance writer with her
www.vtcheese.com
most recent article appearing in Jeff Egan
4
Grafton Cheese Technical Grant from the Vermont Institute of Artisan
Cheese (VIAC) will be providing
Expands Awarded the hands-on technical assistance,
and is expected to focus on product
T M
he new Grafton Village Cheese ark Fischer of Woodcock enhancement and development,
facility at the historic Retreat Farm has been the between the months of April and
Farm in Brattleboro is 27 recipient of a Farm Viability October. Druart joined the VIAC
miles from their flagship location in Enhancement Grant, sponsored as an instructor and technical
Grafton. The new plant’s design was by the Vermont Housing and consultant in 2004 and, in addition
approved by the Vermont Office of Conservation Board in collabo- to cheesemaker, serves as technology
Historic Preservation. ration with the Vermont Agency advisor on raw milk research
Adam Mueller, Grafton Village of Agriculture, Food and Markets. projects. The four VCC members who
Cheese Company president said, The grant provides for four-days will participate are Woodcock Farm,
“We’ll go into full scale production of on-site technical assistance at Lazy Lady Farm, Jericho Hill Farm
and open up the retail store probably four different farm locations. Marc and Crawford Family Farm.
by early summer.” Druart, the master cheese-maker
The production facility is approxi-
mately 25,500 square feet. The large
retail space, which includes a viewing
area, will showcase all of Grafton’s
cheeses, as well as a selection of
Beer and Cheese, Please
other fine Vermont cheeses. Fresh
I
bread, a coffee corner, maple and n February, the Vermont Pub Paniolo (Willow Hill Farm) paired
other food products, a “book nook” Brewery hosted a Vermont Cheese with Forbidden Fruit Framboise
focusing on cheeses and cooking and and Beer Tasting, featuring VIAC (Vermont Pub & Brewery)
other goodies round out the store’s faculty member, and VCC Board
interior space. Grafton cheese tasting member, Montse Almena-Aliste – Bayley Hazen Blue (Jasper Hill
will be offered daily, and regular an expert on understanding and Farm) paired with Trout River
tasting events of other products will explaining the sensory attributes Scotch Ale (Trout River Brewing
also be held. of cheese, and Brewmaster Greg Company)
“It is important to us that Noonon. Featured Vermont beer and
this store reflects the Windham cheese pairing included: Also on tap:
Foundation mission of supporting In May, the first ever “SAVOR:
Vermont agriculture, said John Fresh Mozzarella (Maplebrook An American Craft Beer & Food
Bramley, Windham Foundation Farm) paired with Burly Irish Ale Experience” was held in Washington,
President. “This is a major (Vermont Pub Brewery) DC. This event was sponsored by The
investment in Brattleboro and in Brewers Association in Colorado as
Vermont’s dairy industry,” added Tomme (Twig Farm aged at Jasper part of their annual American Craft
Mueller. Hill Caves) paired with Wolaver’s Beer Week celebrations. To that end,
India Pale Ale (Otter Creek Rock Art Brewery’s owner/ president
Brewing) and Brewmaster, Matt Nadeau
sampled over 20 Vermont cheeses in
Menuet (Dancing Cow Farm, aged an effort to find the perfect cheese
at Jasper Hill Caves) paired with to pair with and complement their
Beetle Juice (Vermont Pub & “Vermonster.”
Brewery) After sampling a wide variety
of cheese types and textures, they
Clothbound Cheddar (Shelburne settled on Taylor Farm Maple
Farms) paired with Dogbite Bitter Smoked Gouda. The creamy texture
(Vermont Pub & Brewery) and milder flavor brought out the
malt body of the beer, while the
Clothbound Cheddar (Cabot aged maple smoked aspect matched the
at Jasper Hill Caves) paired darker roasted grain flavors and
The new Grafton Village Cheese with McNeills Pullman’s Porter complemented the plentiful hops in
facility in Brattleboro. (McNeills Brewery) the beer.
5
Small BiteS
Franklin Foods has secured As last year’s American Cheese Members in the News
distribution for their award winning Society Annual Meeting host,
Hahn’s Yogurt & Cream Cheese Vermont is hoping for a strong Dancing Cow Farm’s cheese,
with the Hillsborough, FL school showing at this summer’s ACS Sarabande, was mentioned in
system. Hillsborough is the fifth Annual meeting in Chicago in late November, 2007’s issue of Food &
largest school systems in the United July. Plans are to sponsor a breakfast Wine which focused on “The Great
States and serves 235,000 meals with plated cheese from Vermont American Cheese Plate” by Laura
daily. According to Rocco Cardinale, Cheesemakers. So far, more half of Werlin. Sarabande, which is named
Director of Marketing, “Our strategy all Vermont’s cheesemakers are on after a sensual Baroque-era dance
to rollout the patented-approved board to share their cheeses with from Spain, is a washed-rind cheese
Yogurt & Cream Cheese technology the more than 1,000 attendees who with a flattened-pyramid shape and a
to 15,000 Schools and 40 million come to the event from all over North delicately buttery, grassy flavor. The
students across the U.S. is taking American and many other countries. silky paste is semi-soft with a slightly
traction and this will be an exciting Those signed up include Peaked chalky center, and the cheese has a
year for Franklin Foods.” Mountain Farm, Jericho Hill Farm, beautifully long and complex finish.
Taylor Farm, Jasper Hill Farm,
Blythedale Farm, Maplebrook
Farm, Grafton Village Cheese
On March 12th a Vermont Wine Company, Shelburne Farms,
and Cheese party was hosted for Crowley Cheese, Frog City Cheese,
members of the Vermont Legislature. Twig Farm, Bonnieview Farm, Blue
Participating cheesemakers included Ledge Farm, Neighborly Farm, Dancing Cow Farm’s Sarabande
Grafton Village Cheese Company, Lazy Lady Farm, Woodcock Farm,
Jericho Hill Farm, Neighborly Cobb Hill Cheese, Dancing Cow
Farms, Jasper Hill Farm, and Farm and Vermont Water Buffalo.
Taylor Farm. In addition cheese Freelance writer Peggy Shinn
was sent along for the occasion by wrote a story for The Boston Globe
Lazy Lady Farm, Cobb Hill Farm, entitled “Vermonters aim to be
Shelburne Farms, Cabot Creamery,
Peaked Mountain Farm and
Blythdale Farm.
An interview with Willow Hill
Farm completed the series of audio
interviews with Vermont cheese-
makers conducted for the web site,
Cheese by Hand. It’s a searchable site
available on iTunes as a free podcast.
Listen to Vermont cheesemakers
share their viewpoints about cheese,
farming, labor, the economy and a
host of other related topics. More
podcasts from around the USA will be
uploaded over time. Check out www. Cheesemakers on hand at the Vermont Hospitality Council’s “Taste of
cheesebyhand.com and click on the Vermont” event were L to R: Linda Dimmick, Neighborly Farms; Jed Davis,
various interviews. Cabot Creamery; Willow Smart, Willow Hill Farm; Wendy Brewer, Grafton
Village Cheese Company; Jon Wright, Taylor Farm; Jamie Yturriondobeitia,
Shelburne Farms; and Mark Fischer, Woodcock Farm.
6
the big cheese” for the March 9 Frog City Cheesemaker Tom
issue. The article featured Taylor Gilbert was on the front page of
Farm, Vermont Butter & Cheese March 13 edition of The Rutland Vermont Cheese
Co., Woodcock Farm, Crowley Herald. Frog City Cheese is a Council Member
Cheese, Grafton Village Cheese family owned and operated cheese
and quoted from Ellen Ecker Ogden, manufacturing business located at Cheesemakers
coordinator of the council and author the Plymouth Cheese Factory on the
of The Vermont Cheese Book, which President Calvin Coolidge Historic Blue Ledge Farm
sketches the landscape of the state’s Site Cheese Factory in Plymouth Blythedale Farm
artisanal industry. Notch, Vermont. Bonnieview Farm
Cabot Creamery
Champlain Valley Creamery
Become a Friend of VCC Cobb Hill Cheese
The Vermont Cheese Council is dedicated to the production Consider Bardwell Farm
and advancement of Vermont cheese. Thank you for joining us Crawford Family Farm
as a new member. We greatly appreciate your support! Crowley Cheese Inc.
Dancing Cow Farm
Individual/Friend Members: Cheese Lovers who support our efforts:
Doe’s Leap Goat Farm
❏ $50.00
Franklin Foods
Associate Members: Trade members: Non-cheesemaking members who Frog City Cheese
distribute, sell & market cheese;
Grafton Village Cheese Co.
❏ $ 75.00: Individual
❏ $150.00: Small business membership Green Mountain Blue Cheese
Hope Farm Sheep Cheese
You will receive: VCC logo sticker, choice of e-newsletter or hard
copy newsletter — 1 year subscription Jasper Hill Farm
Jericho Hill Farm
Corporate Sponsors: Members who would like to do more to help us
La Fromagerie du Royaume
achieve our goals:
❏ $250. “Velveeta Defeatahs” member Lake’s End Cheeses
❏ $500. “Got Your Goats” member Lazy Lady Farm
❏ $1,000. “Knights of the Round Gouda” member Maplebrook Farm
❏ $2.500. “High Order of the Sharp Cheddar” member Neighborly Farms
You will receive: VCC logo sticker, choice of e-newsletter or hard Orb Weaver Farm
copy newsletter — 1 year subscription, plus a free ad in our Peaked Mountain Farm
newsletter and listed as sponsor on our website and brochure
Ploughgate Creamery
Name Shelburne Farms
Address Taylor Farm
Thistle Hill Farm
City
Three Owls Sheep Dairy
State Zip
Three Shepherds of the
E-Mail Mad River Valley
Twig Farm
Website
Vermont Butter & Cheese Co.
Phone
Vermont Milk Company
Fax Number Vermont Shepherd
Vermont Water Buffalo
Please make checks payable to: The Vermont Cheese Council
West River Creamery
Mail to: c/o Ellen Ogden, P.O. Box 1007 Manchester Village, VT 05254
More info: 866.261.8595 / e-mail: info@vtcheese.com Willow Hill Farm
Woodcock Farm
7
Vermont Farm Bureau Non-Profit Org.
Vermont Cheese Council U.S. Postage
2083 East Main Street PAID
Richmond, VT 05477 Permit No. 222
Barre, VT
05641
Calendar of Upcoming Events
The Vermont Cheese Council
Find seasonal Farmers Markets, July 23-26: American Cheese Newsletter is published for
May – Oct, www.vermontagri- Society Annual Awards
food professionals.
culture.com/farmmkt www.cheesesociety.org/.
With written permission,
June 7: Strolling of the Heifers July 25-27: Stowe Wine and Food
(Parade and Dairy Festival) Tasting www.craftproducers.com reprinting is encouraged.
www.strollingoftheheifers.com August 3: Vermont Fresh Network
Forum www.vermontfresh.net Contact:
August 30-31: Southern Vermont the Vermont
Garlic Festival
www.lovegarlic.com
CheeSe CounCil
Ellen Ogden, Coordinator
September 20: Plymouth Cheese
Festival www.HistoricVermont. c/o Vermont Farm Bureau
org/Coolidge 2083 East Main Street
September 26-28: Vermont Life Richmond, VT 05477
Wine & Harvest Festival:
866-261-8595
June 13-22: VT Culinary Classic at Wilmington, Vt.
www.vtcheese.com
Stowe October 11: Autumn Harvest
July 18-19: Vermont Brewers Festival: Taylor Farm,
Festival: www.vermontbrewers. Londonderry, Vt.
com/overview.html October 19-20: ABCs of Farm
Education. Shelburne Farms, VT
Check www.vtcheese.com for updates
8
