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RC Laser Academy
Hints and Tips
(Version for paid-up members of the UK and North American RC Laser Organizations)
INDEX:
Introduction
How do I get everything in the carry bag?
How to get the large top A Rig into the carry bag
How long do the batteries last?
Sealing the Radio Gear for Heavy Weather Sailing
Rechargeable Batteries
Sail Shape
Mast bends Downwind
Mark Rounding
Beating and getting out of irons
Sail Numbering
Draining the Hull
Reinstalling the Sheeting System after coming adrift
Sheeting System and Shock Elastic
Help! I have ripped my sail
In irons again and cannot get out?
Stop sail rot!
Lost your fin/keel to Davey Jones' Locker?
And now for something a little advanced
How far do I set the boom to haul in?
Switch won't work?
Leech Telltales (the silver streamers along the sail edge)
How far away can I sail?
Why don't all the boats go at the same speed?
Can we race three boats together without radio interference?
How do we decide when to change rigs?
Stop those boom slider ends hurting your fingers
Rudder 'twitching' and how to stop it
Replacing a rudder servo
Replacing the sail winch servo
Spice up your racing with a Personal Handicapping System
Surviving your first open event
Have trouble controlling your boat downwind?
More about batteries and charging
Pre-season Maintenance
1 Introduction
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Our RC Laser mates from the UK have given us, in North America, kind permission to share their
RC Laser Academy Hints and Tricks document for our RC Laser NA members only. The Hints
and Tricks certainly compliment all the Tips and Tricks currently on this site (also for members
only) but has some additional information presented in an easy to follow style. You will note the
slightly varied UK spelling for some words and local terms but all are easy to understand and
follow.
This document is not to be copied or printed for distribution to anyone.
Newcomers to the world of RC Laser sailing may possibly find the Laser just a little bit different to
what they have been used to up to now. In an effort to be of assistance we have gathered
together a collection of useful hints and tips which we hope will ensure your Laser sailing
experience will be fun and trouble free.
Firstly we would like to congratulate you on your choice of boat.
The RC Laser is a great boat to own and sail whether racing or
pottering. However whilst it is easy to sail it is not so easy to make
it go fast. Expect an apprenticeship to get to the front of the fleet.
Before sailing your Laser for the first time there are few
measures that are really worthwhile taking in order to ensure
your first and subsequent outings go smoothly.
The following hints and tips have been based on questions asked
of the association since its formation in January 2001.
2 How do I get everything in the bag?
Q: Which way round do things go in the bag?
A: See diagram below.
Notes: The diagram shows bow first but we have found that deck down and stern first is the
safest for travel. The Stainless Steel boat stand lays across the transmitter pocket - you'll find it
fits over rather nicely if you have it the correct way round.
3 Big 'A' sail won't go in the bag!
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Q: How do I get the 'top' A sail in the carry bag - it's too long?
Method
I Acquire a piece
of foam pipe
insulation about 2
inches in diameter
and about 12
inches long.
II Place the new
A sail in the case
with the luff
running parallel to
the zip and with
the sail head
protruding at the
same end as the
radio transmitter.
III With the foam
padding laid
across the case
as shown gently
furl the sail over it
and carefully close
the case.
IV Zip up the
case and - Voila!
the sail is in the
bag.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not leave the sail folded over for storage as this will cause creases to form in the laminated
areas of the sail. For long term storage leave the sail head flopped out of the case end - with the zip undone.
5 How long will the batteries last? (See item 38 for more on batteries)
Q: What happens when the batteries run low and how often will I need to change them?
A: The transmitter batteries should last at least a day and probably a lot longer (say 8/16 hours
sailing). Your transmitter has two 'battery state' led lights - one red one green. When the green
light is lit it is safe to sail. When the red light starts flashing it is time to change the batteries. If
you have a spare set close to hand it should be possible to do a 'quick change over' while the
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boat is still on the water but only if you feel it safe to do so (control will be lost during the
changeover).
To make the changeover 'on the water' some skippers put the rudder hard over and then switch
the transmitter off. This puts the boat into sailing tight circles so it does not sail away into the
distance during the changeover.
The boat battery pack will have a shorter life, depending on the strength of the wind. In strong
winds you will need to change the batteries more frequently (servo working harder). As a rough
guide you can expect the boat pack to last just a morning (say 4 hours) in strong winds but longer
on light winds. Even in light winds do not try to get more than one full day's sailing from them - it's
not worth the risk (unless you have a rescue boat to hand). If at any time you sense the response
of the winch is slowing down bring the boat ashore and change the batteries.
If you purchase your batteries in bulk from big box stores you will find it much less expensive.
If you want to switch to rechargeable batteries you must follow the recommendations elsewhere
in this document (see Item 6 Rechargeable Batteries).
5 Sealing the Radio Gear Compartment for Heavy Weather Sailing
Q: I want to sail in heavy weather. Is the Laser completely watertight?
A: When it leaves the factory the boat is water resistant.
However, over time (even in storage) this quality may be lost.
If you sail in heavy weather you may find water enters the
radio compartment. The most likely points of entry are the
holes where the servo and winch penetrate the hull. To
improve the water tightness it will be necessary to repack,
with Teflon grease, the holes in the deck. Waterproof Teflon
grease may be purchased in most cycle shops in small tubes
at little cost, or Vaseline works just as well.
You may wish to provide an improved/ longer-lasting seal between the hull and the top surface of
the servo and winch. We have used a variety of substances including Blue Tack to form a small
thin rubber washer and silicone (bath sealant). You may discover something better. Only
undertake this work if you feel competent. It is only necessary to remove the centre screws from
the servo and winch to enable them to be removed. Do not remove the square radio
compartment cover or the metal bridge over the winch drum. Removing and replacing the servo
and winch is a relatively simple task (see procedure below).
Last but not least, don't forget the switch - make sure water is not entering around the sides of
the switch plastic cover.
6 Rechargeable Batteries
Q: I would like to use rechargeable batteries. Am I allowed to do this under the class rules?
A: Yes. Ordinary AA Alkaline batteries as purchased in any shop are adequate. Receiver
batteries may last a morning only, depending on wind strengths, but transmitter batteries should
last all day. However you may, if you wish, convert to AA rechargeable batteries to save on
running cost.
Note that dry cell batteries deliver 1.5 volts, whereas rechargeable batteries only deliver 1.2 volts.
For the transmitter this does not matter but you will require a 5-cell pack (6 volts) fitted with a
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Futaba plug for the boat. These are obtainable from most good model shops. 8 individual cells
are required for the transmitter. We recommend Nickel Cadmium rechargeable batteries but you
can use alternatives such as Nickel Metal Hydride or Lithium Ion…..all AA’s. You will also need a
purpose made 'slow' charger with an outlet to connect to the boat battery pack and an outlet to
connect directly to the transmitter. Again, consult your local model shop.
Once you are set up with rechargeable batteries make sure you charge for the correct length of
time. You can determine the total charge time required as follows:-
Time to charge = [Capacity of battery (mAh) x 1.5] divided by the charging rate (mA).
e.g. 1,000 mAh battery x 1.5 divided by a charge rate of 50 mAh gives a charge time of 30 hours.
It is always better to charge as close to the time of sailing as possible (e.g. the day before).
Any local model shop or supplier on the RC laser web sit would be able to help you.
7 Sail Shape
Q: I have never sailed a model or full
size boat before. Where do I set the
sliding fittings on the boom?
A: You will, with practice, learn how to
set sail shape for maximum boat speed.
In the meantime we suggest setting the
outer boom slider (at the stern most
corner of the foot of the sail)
approximately 4.5 cm from the end of
the boom. This setting, in conjunction
with a suitable adjustment of the inner
boom slider, should give a nice curve to
the foot of the sail. Pulling the inner
outhaul slider towards the mast will
bend the mast thereby flattening the sail
and vice versa. You will soon be
experimenting with the controls to set
your own favourite sail shapes for
different wind conditions.
Some full size top Laser sailors are now sailing with a lot of camber set in the foot of the sail
when sailing in light airs. This is contrary to the advice given by top sailors for other types of
yacht or dinghy. Give it a go, you may be pleasantly surprised.
In heavy weather you may find it worthwhile flattening the sail a bit to improve air flow over the
sail. As this has the added effect of tightening the sail leech (reducing twist) and moving the
Centre of Area aft you have to watch what you are doing so as not to increase weather helm too
much, and therefore the tendency for the boat to head up to wind.
When setting the sail on the shore be aware that the sail shape will change when the boat is on
the water and the sail has wind pressure acting upon it. Always look to the sail shape 'when
sailing' - not when the boat is static on the shore.
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As you are probably now beginning to realise Laser sailing has more to it than meets the eye. So
go out there and start practising. Are you up to the challenge?
8 Mast Bends Downwind
Q: When running downwind in a stiff breeze my mast bends
forward. Should this happen?
A: We need to be able to control mast bend so that we can shape
the sail for upwind sailing in different wind strengths. We do this
by changing the tension in the sail leech (move the inner outhaul
slider towards mast for more mast bend and vice versa).
In a stayed rigged boat with backstay, mast bend is controlled by
changing the tension in the backstay. This means that the fore and aft bend in the mast remains
fore and aft whatever position the sail is in.
In the RC Laser we do not have a backstay to hold mast bend constantly in the fore and aft
direction. Wind pressure on the sail is able therefore to bend the mast forward when running
downwind. This is exactly the same on the full size Laser. Take a look at any photograph of a full
size Laser on a broad reach, or a run, in heavy weather and you see the mast bending with the
wind.
Now there is an upside for us compared to a rig with backstay. On the stayed boat mast bend is
only correct for one position of the sail and this is usually for the close hauled leg. When the sail
is, say, out at 60 degrees to the boat, i.e. a broad reach, the mast, as seen by the sail, is nearly
straight - not what we had in mind when we set backstay tension. Whereas on our Laser the mast
bend remains more or less as we want at most points of sailing because the mast bending force
moves round with the sail - in other words we have a rotating mast.
9 Leeward Mark Rounding
Q: When I round a leeward mark the Laser
comes to a halt with sails flapping because the
sails do not haul in fast enough to drive on the
new tack. How do I overcome this?
A: When rounding marks that are not
approached on a very close beat (i.e. the main
sheet is not fully sheeted in) you will find it an
advantage to start hauling in the main sheet as
you approach the mark. If you do not do this
and the next leg is a close haul you will lose
boat speed waiting for the sail to start drawing.
Practice this technique until it becomes second
nature: Its virtually standard practice on the full
size Laser.
10 Beating and getting out of irons
Q: When sailing to windward in strong winds the boat changes course a lot. How do I control
this?
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A: In certain wind strengths you will find you have to sail the boat continuously, playing the sheet
in and out all the time to ensure you maintain good boat speed and course. It is characteristic of
many una rigged boats. It demands a lot of concentration to keep on course - so beware. Do not
let your colleagues distract you it can prove disastrous to your race position.
Do not attempt to tack unless you have good boat speed. If necessary bear away a little to gain
speed before entering the tack. Get into irons and you could lose a couple of places.
To get out of irons (boat head to wind - sail flapping - not going anywhere) you will need patience.
Start by letting the sheet out and then wait until the boat starts moving backwards. When it has
some way (movement), and not before, add a little rudder so the boat starts moving back in a
curve. When it looks like you can haul in the sheet and start the sail drawing do so but do so
gently and not too soon or you will be back in irons before you can say "silly me".
Should you find that you keep going back into irons, or even have difficulty getting out of irons, it
is almost certainly because you have too much curvature in the foot of the sail. Try going to the
'extreme' and tightening the foot of the sail so it is almost tight. Now sail the boat and feel the
difference. Now reset the foot so it has some curvature set into it. Going the extreme setting in
this way will give you a good feel for the effect of different foot curvature settings in the future.
You will soon get the hang of this technique - practice it whenever you can so you learn to judge
the right moment to take each step of the process.
11 Sail Numbering
Q: How do I get and where do I put my hull number on the sail and hull?
A: If you intend racing your Laser you will be required to place the last two digits of your boat
number on your sails. See left hand menu on the www.RCLaserNA website for sail number
ordering and specifications.
12 Draining the Hull
Q: After sailing the other day in very rough conditions I could hear water in the hull. What should I
do?
A: If you have not discovered it already you will find a small breathing/drain hole in the transom of
the Laser.
No plug is fitted or required. Very little water gets into the hull through this hole but it is worthwhile
tilting the hull on its stern after each outing to drain away any water that may be present.
Evacuation can be assisted by gently squeezing the hull with pumping-like action.
See the above topic on sealing the radio gear compartment if there is more than just a small
quantity of water in the hull after sailing as you may find some there too.
13 Reinstalling the Sheeting System after coming adrift
Q: Whilst sailing the other day my sheeting line became dislodged from the winch drum. How do I
reinstall it?
A: It is quite likely that the cause of your problem was an inadvertent movement of the sheeting
tab slider on the transmitter (the slider just to the left of the sheeting control stick - see photo).
This will have caused the loop in the monofilament line along the deck to have jammed in the
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bow pulley or the winch drum, the winch continues trying to rotate causing it to continue
supplying line which then causes the line to slip off the drum.
What you need to do is to refit the monofilament line taking care to ensure that it cannot happen
again.
We describe here a procedure which aims to achieve this objective. It is not a simple procedure
but will be necessary in order to return your boat to sailing trim.
Firstly, make sure your transmitter sheeting mode switch (the mode switch is in a different
position on each model of transmitter but usually close to the appropriate channel) for channel No
2 is correctly set, i.e. NOT SET TO THE REVERSE POSITION.
Secondly, you need to switch on the transmitter and receiver.
Now move the transmitter sheeting stick to the fully sheeted "in"
position i.e. control stick towards you and the sheeting trim tab
slider fully towards you (Note: This is not the normal sailing
position. The correct position is with the trim tab in the central
position). The mainsheet attachment loop on the sheeting
system should now be somewhere near the bow unless you
have had a complete unwind of the sheeting system.
The photograph will assist you in understanding what has to be done next.
Start by "swinging" the winch drum bridge out of the way (see photo) but before doing this it is
wise to switch off the supply to the onboard radio system.
Remove one screw from the winch drum bridge and swivel the bridge out of the way.
With the bridge out of the way rewind the monofilament line onto the drum as follows:-
Take the part of the line between the drum and the mainsheet connecting loop on the starboard
side of the deck and wind it anticlockwise once round the lower section of the drum leading it
forwards up the starboard side of the deck towards the bow.
Now take the other, port, side of the sheeting and wind it clockwise round the upper section of the
drum around 6 times taking it forward, up the port side of the deck. As you attempt to complete
this operation you will find that there is not enough line to let you make the last turn on the drum.
If it is way out you will need to see what you can do to release some line, possibly by removing
part of a turn somewhere until the line looks like it will nearly pass over the drum. You now have
two options. You can either force the line over the drum by stretching the line. This is tricky, hard
on the fingers, and may even result in damage. It is carried out at your own risk of course.
Or preferably, you can remove the drum to complete the operation as follows.
Remove the drum fixing screw and, using your thumb
and index finger gently remove the drum by lifting it
away just enough to clear the splined shaft of the winch
(see photo). Now complete a rewinding of the last turns
onto the drum until the drum nearly fits over the shaft
and refit the drum. Some tension will have to be applied
to the sheeting line in order to complete the operation.
This your rough sheeting position before making final
adjustments.
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Final adjustments will involve removing the drum again and rotating it in whichever direction is
required to position the mainsheet loop in the monofilament line to the required 1 or 2 cm from
the bow pulley so do not replace the bridge just yet. When you are happy, replace the drum onto
the splined shaft and replace the screw.
It is now time to check your work by resetting the sheeting trim tab slider to its centre position and
then switching on the onboard radio receiver. Now slowly sheet in and out and watching for any
tendency for the sheeting loop to get jammed in either the winch drum or bow pulley.
You now need to check what happens if the trim tab is moved to either of its extreme positions. If,
during these checks the sheeting loop fowls either the bow pulley or winch drum further
adjustments will have to be made by easing off the drum again and rotating it enough to ensure
clearance between the bow pulley and winch drum is achieved.
When all checks have been made and you are happy with everything it is time to replace the
drum fixing screw and the bridge and go sailing.
14 Sheeting System Shock Elastic
Q: As my winch turns I hear a creaking noise. Should I be worried?
A: Under the rules you are allowed to fit a piece of shock cord elastic in the line running from the
winch up to the point where the main sheet attaches to this line. Fitting this will reduce the load
on the winch bearings and extend battery life. Be careful to fit the elastic in the starboard side line
aft of the attachment point (see diagram below). After fitting the shock elastic you will readily see
the length of the elastic changing as the winch turns. This clearly demonstrates the great job the
shock elastic is doing. The change in length is due to the sheet running up on itself within the
winch drum thereby changing the effective diameter on which the sheet is feeding - just like when
you wind your garden hose onto its wheel.
The above procedure for adding a shock elastic is best carried out (but not essential) if
accompanied by a change from the monofilament sheeting line supplied with the boat to a
Dacron or Dyneema sheeting system.
Before proceeding we do urge to read the caveat below before proceeding.
If you do wish to do-it-yourself then Dacron or Dyneema (50 kg breaking strain) can be obtained
from most fishing tackle shops or Model Yacht Supplies.
During the description of this procedure we may refer to:
The Sheeting Control Stick - this refers to the left hand of the two transmitter sticks when the
aerial is pointing away from you.
The Sheeting System Trim Tab - this refers to the small 'slider' positioned just to the right of the
Sheeting Control Stick.
Pulling the Sheeting 'IN' - this means moving the Sheeting System Control Stick towards you (or
down) and recalls the action of 'pulling in the mainsheet' on a sailing dinghy.
Letting the Sheeting 'OUT' - is merely the reverse of the above.
Now the procedure.
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a) Place your hull on the table after laying down an old towel to stop the hull sliding around
during the procedure. Add batteries to the radio gear and switch on the transmitter then
the boat.
Page | 10
30
b) Move the left hand transmitter stick and the trim tab, just to the right of the stick, to the fully
'IN' position, i.e. move both towards you as you hold the transmitter in the normal 'sailing
position' (aerial pointing away).
c) The mainsheet connection point to the sheeting system should now be up close to the bow
pulley.
d) Make a note, or better still a sketch, of how the line leaves the drum i.e. on the lower
section of the drum the line leaves on the port side and vice versa. Note that the winch
makes four complete turns from the mainsheet fully 'in' to mainsheet fully 'out' position if
you push the stick away from you and back again.
e) Now, undo the screw fixing the winch drum to the winch servo (small cross head screw in
centre of drum).
f) This is now the point of no return. Place you thumb and index finger on the drum both side
of the drum ‘bridge’ and gently pull away the drum from the winch servo spigot. As you do
so the tension in the monofilament line may cause the drum to fly away if you are not
careful.
g) Remove the monofilament line from the drum noting, for future reference, how it is
attached (i.e. passed through the holes in the drum towards the centre and knotted. You
will not, however, knot your new line when you change over - you will use beads to stop
the line running through the hole).
h) Now take a long length (more than twice the hull length) of Dacron or Dyneema line and
attach one end to the lower section of the drum in the same way the monofilament line
was attached. However, we recommend tying a small bead to the end of the line to
prevent it slipping through the hole in the drum. Wind the line five turns clockwise around
the drum (when looking down on the boat). This will form the port side part of sheeting
system.
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i) Run the line through the bow pulley entering on the port side and leaving on the starboard
side.
j) Holding the drum roughly over the position it will eventually go back to pass the free end
through the hole on the lower section of the drum and pull it through, leaving some slack in
the line running back to the pulley. Now give that line five anticlockwise turns (this will
either take up the slack or there is not enough surplus you will have to pull through some
of the surplus at free pulling it through the hole in the drum). Leave the end free at the
moment - do not attempt to tie on a bead at this moment.
k) Replace the drum onto the servo spigot and replace and tighten the screw (a spot of
Vaseline or Blue Tack on the end of the screwdriver will assist in locating the screw).
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l) You should now have a line running from the port side of the drum up through the bow
pulley and back to the starboard side of the drum passing through the hole in the drum.
The line maybe quite slack at this point and will still not be tied at the starboard side of the
drum. This untied end gives freedom to adjust the amount of line in the sheeting system
whilst you make the elastic 'shocker'.
m) Before going any further you must now check the sheeting system position. Pull the stick
towards you - the 'sheet in' position.
n) When the winch stops rotating tie the first loop (about 10 mm in diameter) for the shock
elastic in the sheeting line about 3 cm from the bow pulley (see diagram below) . Then tie
the second loop (same size) about 5 cm sternwards from the first.
o) Take your short length of elastic (or a cut rubber band) and tie a loop of elastic between
the two sheeting system loops (see sketch) such that the length of sheeting line between
the line loops goes quite slack.
p) Return to the free drum end of the line and tug the free end so the line slips round the
drum until the elastic shocker starts to stretch a little. Now pass another bead over the end
of the line and tie it in place yet. This is tricky as the drum is now back on the spigot - you'll
find a way.
q) Take a look at your work and make sure you are happy with everything. The elastic
shocker should be stretching and shrinking as the winch turns. Go to the fully in and fully
out positions a couple of times to make sure everything is operating satisfactorily. You
may now remove any surplus Dacron/Dyneema or, you may wish to carry out the following
checks first.
r) One more check is recommended and that is to put the trim tab fully forward and run the
sheeting system in and out again carefully. If all is OK the shocker will not get caught in
the bow pulley or winch drum at the extremities of travel. If it does, some adjustments to
your work may be required. This adjustment can be made by undoing the drum securing
screw and lifting the drum off the servo spigot as before and rotating a notch or two before
returning it to the spigot and replacing the screw. The sheeting system should never get
caught in the bow pulley. If any 'overrun' is to occur it is better that this take the form of
overrun onto the winch drum. Ideally, in the 'sheet fully out' position the point of
attachment of the mainsheet leading to the boom should be in the area of the mainsheet
eye on the deck.
s) The final step, yes it really is the last, is to retie the mainsheet to the sheeting system AT
FORWARD LOOP OF THE SHOCKER. And there you have it! Job well done.
15 Sail Repair
Q: I have accidentally torn my sail. What is the best way to repair it within the class rules?
A: You can purchase a tape that is ideal for Laser sail repairs. Ask for 'Diamond' tape. It is not
expensive. It is a transparent acrylic tape and makes a strong, invisible repair. Magic tape or
ordinary Sellotape is not recommended. It is worth keeping a roll in your Laser bag for
emergencies.
Page | 13
16 In Irons Again and Cannot Get Out? (i.e. boat head to wind with sail flapping)?
Q: How do I get out of irons?
The answer is with great difficulty and a lot of patience.
Until someone comes up with a better way we recommend sitting there with the rudder straight
and the sheeting slack until the boat starts to drift backwards. When you have judged there is
sufficient way on the boat gently put the rudder over to one side until the boat starts to turn (in
reverse) enough to be able to haul in the sail and move off.
Do not try to pinch at this point. Sail well off the wind until you have sufficient boat speed to be
able to get back onto a close hauled course (if that is what you want).
Note: Things are not that different in the full size Laser, except that you are able to push the
boom out to get going. Something you are obviously unable to do if you are not in the boat.
Laser triple World Champion Glenn Bourke, in his book "Championship Laser Racing" says, of
avoiding Irons, "Because you are using so much vang (sail leach tension) in heavy airs, it is
difficult to prevent the boat stalling in tacks...Should you muck it up there are two ways to get
out...". Well folks, we have only one method (no, rudder Sculling (full port to starboard) is not
allowed by the racing rules. But in the new racing rules allow some waggling (from centre to one
side either port or to starboard, but only until the boat is back to close hauled and providing the
Waggling is used to turn the boat and not propel it), so our advice is to avoid irons like the plague
in the first place. See it as part of the challenge of Laser racing.
17 Stop the Rot!
Q: After sailing my boat for nearly a year I have noticed blackish stains appearing inside the sail
luff pocket. What are they and how do I stop them forming?
These are almost certainly mildew spots due to water being left inside the sail luff pocket after
sailing. The answer is to make sure you dry out the luff pocket at the end of every day's sail. One
method is to pop a length of tubing in the pocket to allow air circulation until all the water/moisture
has dried out.
28 I've lost it! - My keel that is.
Q: My fin has cracked where the top 'D-Ring' meets the fin. What could have been the cause?
This is almost certainly due to launching the boat from above the surface of the water either by
'throwing' or 'dropping'. The resulting impact with the water causes the fin and lead bulb to
continue on downwards, snapping/cracking the D-Ring/wing nut assembly away from the fin.
If you launch from a jetty that prevents you being able to launch from the water level you should
make a hooked ended launching pole. This 'launcher pole' will also enable you to lift the boat
from the water (the Laser cannot be lifted by the mast because it is an unstayed rig).
If you are in the habit of 'drop-launching' in the way described be warned - your fin may drop off
in deep water and never be seen again.
Page | 14
19 And now a little something for the more advanced - maybe
Q: The una rigged Laser is so different to my One Metre yacht I would like to know what advice
you give for running downwind.
When running in light to medium airs you may
sometimes find the Laser goes faster with the boom
let out to only about 75/80 degrees so that the winds
flows across the sail from leech to luff. This is called
'sailing by the lee'. See later for a full description of
this technique.
When running in heavy airs do not be afraid to sail
by the lee but beware of the windward capsize.
Do not be afraid to experiment with the
'unconventional'. Laser racing is seldom boring.
20 How far do I set the mainsail boom to haul in?
Q: When adjusting the mainsheet slider position I do not know how to set it.
A: You may find at first it makes sailing easier if you set the sheeting so that the boom hauls in no
closer than the stern quarter i.e. boom over the rear corner of the deck (see the diagram in the
item on sail shape).
If you set the boom to haul in any closer you will begin hauling down on the boom thereby
changing sail shape.
We suggest you do this at home or by the lakeside in order to see for yourself.
What you will see, as the boom hauls in towards the centre of the boat is that the boom is pulled
downwards towards the deck. Now look at the sail shape and you will see that the mast is now
more bent and any twist that was in the sail has now reduced or even disappeared altogether.
If you haul the boom in past the stern quarter when sailing you will find the boat has a tendency
to gripe up to wind in the slightest puffs and as a result you will be fighting the wind with the
rudder all the time. Sometimes experienced skippers use this characteristic to work their way
more effectively to windward but until you know what you are doing we suggest you set the slider
as we said at the beginning of this item.
21 Switch won't work?
Q: My deck mounted o n-off switch has ceased to function.
A: If your on-off switch suddenly stops working
and you have checked all other sources of
lack of power to the boat's radio compartment,
you should check the rubber switch cover for
splits. If this reveals a failure you should
replace it with a spare, at the same time
replacing the switch. Once water gets inside
the switch "black rot" will spoil the internal
connections.
Page | 15
Failure of the rubber cover is not common but ultra violet light can cause, over a long period, a
deterioration of the material to the point of failure.
It makes sense of course to inspect the rubber switch cover for splits on a regular basis rather
than wait for the switch to fail during a race.
22 Leech Telltales (the silver streamers along the sail edge) - What are they for?
Q: How do I use the leech telltales?
A: Most, if not all, full size racing yacht skippers will use telltales to assist them in sail setting and
steering. On full size yachts and dinghies there are likely to be telltales at various places on both
the main and jib sails, in addition to leech telltales, such as those fitted to the RC Laser.
In a radio controlled boats like the RC Laser, because the skipper is not on board, there is little
point in having streamers that help with sail settings that cannot be adjusted from the shore. Also,
telltales that assist steering are of little value as they are too difficult to 'read' from any distance.
However, leech telltales can be of value in setting up the boat from the bank when beating the
boat to and fro in close proximity before racing commences.
To get maximum benefit from leech telltales you will, on the RC Laser, need to add one more
telltale to the leech, in the area of the 'Laser' logo (but do not cover it). This additional telltale
should be permissible within the rules as the added telltale can be considered as 'decoration'.
You will have to find some material similar to that used for the original 'as supplied' telltales -
possibly in the form of 'gift/Christmas decoration' or similar. It does not have to be the same
length as the 'supplied' telltales; in fact slightly shorter may prove more effective for this particular
position. The main value of these telltales is in setting the amount of sail twist you have.
The second telltale down from the top (the one you just added) is the most important and should
be streaming nicely with the other/s lower down (ignore the streamer at the very top for this
purpose). If it is not then it is likely you have either too much or too little twist in the sail.
To correct the amount of twist (see diagram below) in the sail you will have to tighten or slacken
the sail leech tension by moving the inner slider of the outhaul towards or away from the mast,
depending on whether you wish to increase or decrease the amount of twist. When this telltale
disappears behind the sail (as seen by a skipper if he were in the boat) you have too little twist
and when it flutters in front of the sail you have too much twist.
Try experimenting with the settings until you have the feel that the boat is sailing as fast as you
can make it go.
When the sail is set correctly you will be able to get some feedback from the telltales while
racing. Try to keep them streaming nicely as this means the wind is leaving the sail leech in
'laminar' flow rather than 'turbulent' flow. Laminar flow is to be preferred.
The very top telltale is useful as a wind direction indicator. If you are out on the water and are not
sure from which direction the wind is coming look to the top telltale for help. It is amazing how
wrong you can be about wind direction out on the water when you are seeing the boat from the
shore.
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Unfortunately, there is a bit
more to sail trim than this.
There will be occasions when
you will want ‘excessive’ sail
twist and that are when you are
being overpowered and it is not
possible to change down into a
smaller sail. If your boat is
continually winding up into the
wind you have too much of
what we call weather helm. To
reduce weather helm let off the
outhaul a little so the amount of
twist in the sail increases. This
will 'spill' some of the wind
power and help you keep the
boat under control. In addition,
because the mast will
straighten as you do this, the
centre of area of the sail moves
forward. This forward
movement of the centre of area
also has the effect of reducing
weather helm.
Some skippers like to set their sail so the boat sails in a straight line with hands off the control
sticks (rudder centred). Some prefer a set up which gives the boat a little 'weather' helm with
'hands off'. See what suits you best.
For a rough guide to setting the correct sail foot curve Jon Elmaleh suggests "A good indicator is
that the boat should be able to sail itself going to windward (neutral helm). Too much weather
helm (the boat rotating into the wind) indicates that you need to flatten the foot curve. A leeward
helm (the boat falling off the wind) shows the need for an increased foot curve."
23 How far away can I sail?
Q: What is the maximum range of radio control?
A: This is a difficult one and a question we are going to have to dodge because so many factors
are involved. It is your own responsibility not to sail out of range.
Firstly it is important to say that the radio gear supplied with the RC Laser is not your common
'toy radio' - it is a real 'professional outfit' with changeable frequencies and a long, long range
This is particularly useful in the event of a ‘frequency clash’ with another skipper sailing on the
same lake e.g. in a competition).
However what we can say is that there are a few guidelines we recommend following.
If you begin to lose control lift the aerial into the vertical position. This position gives you the
longest range - pointing it towards the boat does limit the range.
It is unlikely you will want to sail 'out of range' of the transmitter as seeing where the boat is
pointing is likely to become a problem before safe range is exceeded. Another rough guide is to
Page | 17
sail no further away than your ability to read the sail numbers (size as supplied/approved by the
Association).
If the red light on the transmitter is illuminated or flickering on and off bring the boat ashore as
soon as possible and change the batteries in the transmitter.
See also the section above on how to achieve maximum radio communication range.
Another useful check, if you are having communicating problems, is to ensure the transmitter
aerial has not started to unscrew.
24 Why don't all the boats go at the same speed?
Q: We are told that all the boats are the same and yet they often seem to go at different speeds.
Why is this?
A: There are many factors that affect boat speed, even though all the boats are exactly the same.
These include the skipper's ability to 'read' changes (shifts) in the wind direction and also to judge
from which direction the wind is arriving at the boat (note, often not the same direction as that at
the shore). But, more important than these is what we call 'sail trim' (see also 'Sail Shape' and
'Streamers' above).
It will be very rare day that you will be able to race more than one or two races on the same sail
trim (wind strength is always changing just as much as its direction). One 'golden rule' is that if
your boat is not going as fast as the boat at the front of the fleet change your sail trim - and keep
practicing.
25 Can we race three boats together without radio interference?
Q: Our family has just purchased three boats - can we sail all three at the same time?
A: In principal the answer is yes, but you may possibly have to change the crystals in one or
more of the transmitters and receivers (a very simple task).
N.B: Unless you upgrade to one of the new 2.4Ghz Transmitter/Receiver set ups
which make the above no longer necessary.
If you have yet to purchase your boats ask the supplier to check there is no 'frequency clash'
when selecting the boats.
In the bottom right hand corner of the transmitter face you will see a small crystal holder. Give it a
gentle tug and will come out of its pocket. Do the same with the receiver (you will see the crystal
tag sticking out quite clearly). These two crystals are a matching pair marked TA and RA (TA=
Transmitter, RA=Receiver).
Now do the same with the other boats.
Each pair of crystals should have a different frequency (or channel number) marking to each of
the other pairs of crystals e.g. CH92 40.985TA indicates a Transmitter crystal on Channel 92 = a
frequency of 40.985 Mhz. The matching receiver crystal will be similarly marked but with RA not
TA.
If one pair of crystals is the same as another pair you will need to purchase another pair of a
different frequency (or channel).
Page | 18
These can be obtained from your original supplier or from your local model shop. Take all three
sets with you to ensure you finish up with three different sets.
Also make sure you purchase crystals that will work in the Hitech radio gear.
It is also essential to ensure you purchase crystals for a 40 Mhz AM radio set if that is what you
have (if you have a 27 Mhz radio see that your new crystals are for 27 Mhz sets). Your
transmitter will be marked with the radio frequency set you have.
Plug in the crystals - MAKING SURE YOU REPLACE THEM CORRECTLY i.e. THE TX
CRYSTAL IN THE TRANSMITTER AND THE RX CRYSTAL IN THE RECEIVER - and you are
all ready to go out for some serious racing.
26 How do we decide when to change rigs?
Q: We have all four sail sizes(A, B, C and D) but are unsure how
we will decide to when to change rigs?
A. When the boat gets difficult to handle 'change down a size' is a
good basic rule to follow.
Conversely, when the boat is 'drifting' or just going a bit slow,
change up a size.
There will be two ways in which you will experience difficulty in handling if the rig is too large for
the wind strength in which you are sailing. Firstly, the boat will nosedive excessively downwind.
Some nose-diving can be tolerated - it even be delayed by adopting various sailing techniques,
like letting the sail out past 90 degrees to the boat's centre line, but these are for the more
experienced skippers. It's all a trade-off - the gains in boat speed offered by a bigger rig (whether
that be the A or the B rig) must offset the losses due to nose-diving and excessive spilling of wind
that will become necessary when sailing to windward and on the broad reaches (When sailing in
a marginally too big a rig you will have to trim your sail 'like mad' - constantly playing the sheet in
and out and anticipating gusts in order to avoid 'griping up to windward' and going into irons).
As we have said many times over -
"The RC Laser is a doddle to sail but a challenge to race".
27 How to stop those boom slider ends hurting your fingers
Q: Those boom slider ends really do hurt my fingers - is there anything I can do about it?
A. Yes. Go to your nearest craft shop and purchase a
box/bag of small beads. They are about 5 mm in diameter
and have a hole through the centre for threading on a line.
Sometimes you may have to drill the hole slightly larger to fit
over the slider end. Generally a little epoxy does the holding
job for you. These are a nice force-fit on the slider ends and
do a great job in protecting your fingers - especially in cold
weather.
28 Rudder 'twitching' and how to stop it
Q: Sometimes my rudder starts twitching 'all on its own' i.e. with no input from me - hands off the
transmitter. How do I stop it?
Page | 19
A. Firstly check that you have properly carried out all the instructions regarding radios and
communication in this document.
If the rudder is still twitching, which it probably is otherwise you would not be reading this item, it
may be that a replacement rudder servo is required. Dirt or water may have entered it and this is
causing the erratic behaviour.
It is possible to dismantle the servo and dry it with a hair dryer or even clean the electrical
components with contact cleaner but this is hardly worthwhile as a new servo is unlikely to cost
more than $15.
If you are still experiencing 'twitching' you should check that the receiver and the transmitter are
dry (have you sailed in the rain recently with an unprotected transmitter? A plastic bag (make a
hole in the bottom of the bag and slip it over the aerial) is better than no protection at all although
you can purchase 'custom made' transmitter waterproof mitts if you are a regular winter sailor.
If you do have moisture/water in the transmitter you could try removing the back and gently
drying it out. Some members have even sprayed WD40 onto the 'pots' (the black things behind
the sticks) to keep out the moisture just as you used to do on your car's electrical components.
29 Replacing a rudder servo
Q: How do I go about replacing a rudder servo?
A: If your servo has ceased to function properly, either through water ingress or stripped gear,
you will need to replace it. On the RC Laser this is a fairly simple procedure and can be carried
out at the lakeside, if you have to hand a spare servo and suitable cross head screwdriver.
To make a replacement take the following steps:
Remove the servo arm fixing screw and lift
off the arm that connects to the control rods.
Remove the electrical connection from
channel 1 on the receiver.
Remove the black rubber block from under
the servo.
Feel under the plate and turn the levers
toward the circular opening (see photo 2) and
the servo will drop out.
Take the new servo and smear waterproof
grease liberally over the servo spigot and
surrounding area (see photo 3).
Page | 20
Push the servo into position under the deck
opening taking care to see you have the
servo
the right way round i.e. spigot to left looking
aft as shown (see photo 4) where the servo
arm locates onto the servo.
Using your thumb and index finger, lift the servo into position and push the rubber block into
place to hold the servo. It's fiddly but can be done.
You are now ready to turn the levers (if you have them) back into a locking position.
You are now ready to replace the servo arm but do not replace the screw just yet. Before doing
so reconnect the new servo to the receiver (channel 1) and turn on the transmitter and boat. With
the rudder trim tab centred check the rudder tiller arm is also centred. If it is not, you will need to
make an adjustment to the servo rods until the centre position is achieved.
To make adjustments remove the servo arm
and slide it up the rods as shown in
photograph No 5. This will enable you to turn
the adjusters - shortening one and
lengthening the other, then replacing the arm
to see if the adjustment was correct. Repeat
this procedure until you are happy the tiller is
centred.
If you do not have adjusters on the rudder operating rods you will need to remove the servo arm
and try another position on the splined shaft until you are close to centred.
When you are happy replace the servo arm after packing with grease.
You should now be ready to continue sailing. After practice it can be done in under 5 minutes but
as servo failure is rare you do not normally get an opportunity to practice.
Page | 21
30 Replacing a sail winch servo
Q: How do I replace the sail winch servo.
A: Replacing the sail winch servo is a fairly
straight forward procedure.
Centralise the sheeting system by turning on
the transmitter and receiver and putting the
sheeting stick in the fully 'IN' position. Make
sure the trim tab is centred.
Mark the drum with a felt tip pen so you can
return to the same position on reassembly.
It will simplify reassembly if you tape the
sheeting to the drum before doing anything
else. This will prevent the sheeting from
unwinding from the drum as you lift it off the
winch servo.
Having secured the sheeting you can now
remove the winch drum. Start by "swinging"
the winch drum bridge out of the way (see
photo) but before doing this it is wise to
switch off the supply to the onboard radio
system. Now disconnect the winch servo
from the receiver by pulling out the plug in
channel 2 of the receiver.
Remove one screw from the winch drum bridge and swivel the bridge out of the way.
With the bridge out of the way remove the screw fixing the winch drum to the winch.
Remove the drum, using your thumb and index finger to (see photo) gently lifting it away - be
prepared for the drum to spring away from the servo spigot due to sheeting line tension.
Remove the rubber block from under the winch servo. If the servo drops out you are ready to
replace it. If it remains in place you will have to swivel the holding levers away by moving them
towards the circular opening the cover plate. Note: There are two versions of the cover plate -
one has levers (see what the levers look like in the section above on rudder servo replacement),
the other does not. You do not need to worry which version you have as the rubber blocks are
what hold the servos firmly in place).
Take the new winch servo type HS-785HB and smear liberally around the drive spigot with
waterproof grease (see photo in section above to get an idea of what you are to do).
Push the new servo into position under the cover plate and lock the levers in place - if you have
them.
Because the new servo is slightly smaller than the original type 725 you will have to
add approximately 2mm of packing to ensure it holds the servo firmly in place
thereby ensuring you have a watertight seal at the deck.
Page | 22
This is best achieved by winding 'insulating' tape (the tape
usually provided with a new boat for decorating the hull)
around the block (see photo) until it fits tightly under the
winch servo.
Reconnect the new servo to the receiver - channel 2.
Turn on the transmitter and receiver and pull the sheeting control stick fully 'IN' - the position you
had before you removed the drum.
Replace the drum (this may require some effort in stretching the sheeting to fit) making sure the
felt tip pen mark is in the same position as at the start of this procedure and reattach with the
screw.
Swivel the bridge back into place and replace the bridge holding screw.
Remove your tape securing the sheeting system. Test and readjust if necessary.
31 Spice up your racing
Now being used worldwide in both RC and full size racing
(RED, YELLOW, GREEN, GO)
Need to spice up your club racing?
Fall-out of Newcomers a problem?
Bored with the same members winning week after week?
Then you may find the answer in ‘The Rygged Start’ - a personal handicapping system designed
to encourage beginners and add excitement back into club racing
The Problem
Experienced 'model yachters' tend to forget that to newcomers, model yacht racing can appear a
pretty daunting experience. This can be particularly true at the start, when anarchy and
overcrowding readily overwhelms the beginner. As a result, the 'fall-out' rate of newcomers can
be very high.
To overcome this problem the Lee Valley Model Yacht Club introduced, in 1991, a personal
handicapping system (the Rygged Start) that was designed to:
Relieve the beginner of the pressures of crowded start lines, until such time as they are
sufficiently experienced to cope.
Give encouragement, by enabling some early wins.
Page | 23
Eliminate the beginner's proneness to hanging around well behind the the starting line in order to
avoid close contact sailing.
The Solution- The Rygged Start (Red/Yellow/Green/Go)
Every member shall be given a personal handicap based on past performance. Newcomers will
automatically be granted a 'full' handicap upon joining the club, unless they are of proven ability
as a result of past membership of another club.
The handicap granted shall indicate the number of seconds advantage that a sailor shall have at
the start and shall be according to the following table:
TABLE 1
Handicap Colour Handicap Advantage
Red 30 seconds
Yellow 20 seconds
Green 10 Seconds
No Colour Scratch
Each sailor possessing a handicap shall carry a coloured TELL-TALE on the BACK STAY (or sail
leech, near to the head, on the RC Laser) of their boat. Any boats not carrying a Tell-Tale will be
expected to start at the proper time.
Boats with a Red handicap are allowed to cross the start line up to 30 seconds 'early' i.e. on the
30 seconds count on the start tape. The Race Officer will announce 'Reds Away'.
Boats with a Yellow handicap are allowed to cross the start line up to 20 seconds 'early' i.e. on
the 20 second count on the start tape. The Race Officer will announce 'Yellows Away'.
Boats with a Green handicap are allowed to cross the start line up to 10 seconds 'early' i.e. on
the 10 second count on the start tape. The Race Officer will announce 'Greens Away'.
When a sailor has won 'X' or more races (see table below) of a session (say one day's or half
day's sailing, they will be moved down one colour. An outright session win will also result in a
lowering of the handicap by one colour.
TABLE 2
No of races in session No of wins 'X' necessary to change down one colour
0-5 2
6-9 3
10+ 4
Once a sailor has moved down a colour they may not be moved back up at any time.
Optional Notes:
Tell-Tales can be made available from the Race Officer. Any 'promotions' from one colour to
another can be announced by the Race Officer at the end of a session and can be accompanied
by a rousing cheer from everyone present.
Introducing the system can be achieved in a number of ways. You can, for example, start by
giving every member a Red handicap. This can lead to an interesting and exciting year's racing
as members sort themselves out into their real ability levels.
Page | 24
Another benefit of the system is the way in which beginners are introduced to close quarter
racing 'gradually'. This occurs as the faster sailors catch them up after the start and try to
overhaul them.
The advantages gained by the system is fixed in terms of time but the relative benefit will depend
on the length of the races i.e. a 20 second advantage is more beneficial on a race lasting 10
minutes than a race lasting 15 minutes. The times suggested have worked well over a long trial
period and should not be changed. The system has the benefit of naturally sorting itself out so
long as a club aims for reasonably consistent race lengths throughout the season.
After 12 years the system is still in regular use at Lee Valley. We have a number of sailors who
now race regularly at national level and who came to us with no previous knowledge of sailing or
racing.
32 How to survive your first open event?
Q: I have never raced before but want to take the plunge and have a go at racing my RC Laser.
What happens at open meetings?
A. Although you may not thinks so now sooner or later you will want to spread your wings and
have a go at racing your RC Laser.
Don't hesitate - however nervous you may feel about it - you will meet new people, make new
friends and providing you keep your eyes and ears open will learn more in one day than you will
from a month of Sunday’s casual sailing at your club.
Everyone has to start somewhere and at all open events (even the Nationals) beginners are
welcomed with open arms.
Some of the following is a bit rudimentary but do bear with us and continue reading on.
Entering the Event
Ring up the contact number and quote your sail number not your boat number (your sail number
is the last two digits of your boat number). If boats 222 and 122 have entered one of the skippers
will be required to stick a "1" in front of the sail number, just for the duration of the event - a piece
of tape will do). You will also be required to state all the frequencies you have, not just the
frequency which is your preference.
If you have only one set of crystals do not let that stop you entering - the organisers should be
able to sort something out for you.
Some questions to ask when entering. Where is the lake? Are wellies or waders required? What
is the time of the briefing? What is the entry fee? have they got any on-site facilities e.g. toilets?
Arrival
Get to the event as early as possible. Make yourself known to anyone who looks as though they
may be organising things. Pay your entry fee promptly and check which frequency you have been
allocated. Assemble your boat and then take a look at any boats whose skippers you know have
been successful in the past. If you have trimmed your boat wildly differently then try to make
yours look a bit like theirs.
Check that you are allowed to practice and set off to sniff out the wind directions on the lake.
Page | 25
If the course has already been laid try to sail it.
As soon as you hear a call for boats to be taken off the water bring yours ashore immediately.
The Briefing
Listen to the briefing carefully. A briefing is usually in three parts
a) How the race committee is organising the event and how it wants you to fit in
b) Local rules - safety issues, who is allowed to use the rescue boat, launching and
retrieval areas, time of last race
c) The course.
During or at the end of the briefing the race officer will usually ask if there are any questions. If
you're not sure about anything now is the time to find out.
Always make sure you know exactly where you are going around the course - if it's a complex
course draw it on the back of your hand. If you are not sure get the race officer to go through it
once more.
Racing
At last you are on the water and feeling a bit nervous and inadequate. There is however only one
way to learn and that is to get into the thick of it. You will never learn much by backing-off and
touring round behind all the other boats. Watch the other boats. Find one that seems to know
where it's going and follow it with a similar sail setting (boom angle) as you can manage. It may
get away from you but another will probably come a long to take its place - so chase that one.
Try not to get so excited that you forget the course - look at the back of your hand. Hope is
eternal - but don't expect too much from your first outing - just try and do better each race you sail
- whatever you do, don’t give up, however far behind you get.
You will be surprised how often you pick up a place or two when you least expect it. Treat it all as
a learning curve - even getting shouted at. If your knowledge of the rules is a bit thin you may
have to ask for help in determining who was to blame for a contact or even do a penalty turn
yourself (one circle, away from boats racing, including a tack and a gybe) regardless of who was
at fault.
However if that happens remember exactly what occurred so you can ask someone to explain
the rule infringement to you at the end of the race so you will know what to do next time. Above
all have fun.
The Heat Management System
If an event has a small entry everyone will sail together.
If the entry is too big for one fleet (usually more than 16 boats) - a Race Officer must be able to
judge when boats have crossed the line but a very large fleet can make this very difficult - then
each Race will consist of two Heats (it could be even three or more Heats for a very large entry).
We will discuss here an event which has say, 21 boats, which means that two Heats will be
sailed for each Race.
Page | 26
Heat Control
An event will consist of a number of Races - a one-day event will maybe have between 7 and 12
Races. Scoring will be 1 point for a first place, 2 for a second and so on.
To control which boat sails in which heat the Heat Management System (HMS) is used. For Race
1 the entry is divided into two equally sized Heats. In our example of a 21 boat entry this will give
10 boats and 11 boats in each heat. This first race is often referred to as ‘the seeding race’ and is
usually achieved by splitting the skippers of known similar ability so there is a mix of expert and
novice skippers in each Heat for Race 1.
When both Heats A and B of Race 1 have been sailed, results will be given some sort of pecking
order ready for Race 2, i.e. with the two firsts from Heats A and B of Race 1 at the top, the two
seconds next, then the two thirds and so on.
Points for Race 1 are awarded independently for each individual heat. This is t he only occasion
in the event when there will be points awarded for two firsts, two seconds and so on. Are you still
with us? If not go back and read again as it is important to follow this explanation step-by-step.
For Race 2 the pecking-order determined from Race 1 will be split into two fleets so that Heat 2A,
comprising the highest in the pecking order has three or four or even five boats less than Heat
2B. In our example this means there will be 13 boats in heat B and 8 boats in Heat A. The reason
for this uneven split will become clear later.
Now Race 2 commences. Heat 2B is sailed first and the first 4 boats to finish are immediately
promoted to Heat 2A which is then sailed with 12 boats competing (nearly the same number as
was sailed in Heat 2B), the original 8 boats plus the 4 promoted boats. Race 2 has now been
completed and the points can be awarded sequentially from the first position in Heat 2A down to
the last position in Heat 2B.
Race 3 will now commence with Heat 3B being sailed first. Heat 3B will comprise the skippers
who sailed in Heat 2B less the 4 skippers who were promoted into Heat 2A who will be replaced
by the bottom 4 skippers from Heat 2A. This system continues until the end of racing for the
event.
There are certain anomalies to account for boats retiring etc., but we need not worry about that
here.
There will usually be a display of some kind at the event to keep you informed of which heat you
are in but it is usually the skippers’ responsibility to ensure you are on the water when your heat
is called. And, do not forget if you were either first, second, third or fourth in a B Heat you will
probably be staying on the water for Heat A - by way of being promoted.
Your score for the place you gained in Heat B will be ignored as you will now acquire your score
in the A Heat. Now, if you are in the last four places in an A Heat you will be demoted to the B
Heat in the next Race so once again you will be staying on the water. Do this often and you could
be on the water nearly all day. Good value for money?
Page | 27
The Role of the Observer
One thing that has caused some confusion recently is the role performed by an observer. The
role of the Observer is important but must be understood. As an Observer (if you are called upon
to be one - and this is only likely if you
are an experienced skipper) you are
not a judge or jury, you are simply
there to watch and hail the sail
numbers of any boats involved in an
incident which will usually mean two
boats coming into contact with each
other. If you do see a contact try and
remember what happened i.e. where
on the course the boats were, which
tack the boats were on and where the
boats made contact. Was it amidships’,
was it bow and stern etc? When you
hail the numbers do it loudly "contact The annual ‘Travellers Trophy’ Series of events held around the
22 and 74" and if there is no country, offers owners the chance to pit their skills against other
immediate response hail again. Laser sailors.
Trophies are awarded to the overall Winner, the best Improver and
Reasonable skippers will immediately the best Newcomer
acknowledge your hail and with a bit of
luck one will say "my fault, 22 will do a turn". Then all you have to do is to make sure that the
penalty turn is completed properly i.e. the boat finishes the turn on the same tack on which it
started. Alternatively one skipper may shout "74 protests 22" and 22 may reply "22 not at fault".
There is now clearly a difference of opinion. If no penalty turn is completed by either skipper the
incident will then go to a protest hearing to which you may be called as a witness.
The non-collision incident is one where one of the skippers involved will probably make the first
hail. For example it may occur when a boat on a starboard tack has to alter course to avoid a
boat on a port tack. A good observer will be aware when this sort of incident is likely and keep
his/her eyes open. And, if you are not sure whether there was a contact or not then shut up. Do
not hail "I think 22 hit 74". The boats either collided or they did not - there is no in between.
33 Why do I sometimes have trouble controlling my boat downwind?
Q: I sometimes have difficulty controlling my boat
downwind. Is there a special technique to use on
this point of sailing? What's a downwind capsize
and what causes it?
A: When running downwind in a shroudless, una
rigged boat like the Laser it is easy to get caught
out by a capsize to windward. OK, so we are not
tipped into the cold briny but the boat is out of
control and a lost place or two can easily result.
Have you ever stopped to consider why it is the
boat capsizes to windward like this? Well, in case
you haven't here's a brief explanation, together with a tip or two from the dinghy world to help you
reduce the tendency for this to happen.
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Firstly consider the shape of the sail
when running downwind with, as in
the case of the una rigged boat, with
the boom out at 90 degrees to the
centre line of the boat, because of
sail twist the top of the sail is in front
of the mast. This part of the sail is
now generating a component force
to windward, and not just in the
direction in which the boat is sailing -
hence the windward capsize.
So how do we overcome this (It is
difficult to illustrate sail twist when
viewed from above. We have to
hope we have succeeded and that
you will realise the heavy black lines
are meant to show a section through
the sail at three different heights -
near the top, in the middle and at the
foot).
Look firstly at the upper drawing
where the boom is at 90 degrees to
the centreline of the boat. At the top
of the sail you will readily see there
is a force quite significantly towards
the windward side of the boat - and
as this force is at the top of the sail it
has a strong windward capsizing
effect. The direction of this force
moves 'round' the lower we go until it
is more or less in the direction of
travel.
Now look at the lower drawing and you will see how the forces act when the boom is hauled in to
set the boom at about 75 degrees instead of 90 degrees as in the upper drawing. We now still
have a force at the top of the sail to windward but less so and as we move down the force moves
round just as in the example before but now continues round to create leeward forces.
In the ideal set up these forces are balanced. Bingo, no
'wasted' capsizing forces requiring excessive rudder
correction and we are going fast and steady, downwind.
Unfortunately this is only true in theory, where the wind is
steady. In real life as we know the wind is often varying in
strength and direction.
What we have to do therefore is to continually 'play' the
mainsheet (and the rudder) to keep the boat in balance.
Now, there is something else to learn I'm afraid. Unless your
balancing skills are perfect, the boat almost certainly will
begin a roll to windward as the wind shifts or gusts, you will
need to know how to recover. Well, what you now have to do
is the opposite to what your natural reactions will dictate. That If every thing is balanced, then the boat
will remain stable and even power
Page | 29 through minor nose dives.
is, you will put the rudder over to steer to leeward and not to windward. In the lower diagram you
would be turning to your right. This is because the wind is now travelling from leech to luff (not luff
to leech) and so to 'luff up' to de-power the sail (your normal reaction to being overpowered) you
will need to turn to leeward not windward. The sail is now spilling more wind as the boat turns
(look at the lower drawing to visualise this).
Hopefully, by now you will see what we have been trying to explain. If so and you feel it's worth a
try then do so but if you are happy with the way you are sailing downwind and are getting good
results then maybe you should stay sailing the way you are. The choice is yours but before you
reject the principal of sailing by the lee please try it out first. When you get it right it's a real joy
and quite rewarding.
34 More about batteries and charging
Based on an article written for us by Henry Farley of Lee Valley MYC
From time to time you will have problems with electrical power for your boat and transmitter.
Whilst it can happen to anyone it is far less likely to occur if you understand a something about
the power sources we use in our Lasers. This short article is an attempt to help you in that
direction.
Both, disposable (or ‘dry cells’ as they are sometimes described), and rechargeable batteries can
be used quite successfully in the Laser. This article deals specifically with re-chargeables. It is
the conversion from the disposable system, as supplied with the Laser, to ‘re-chargeables’ that
seems to give rise to the most trouble.
The object shown here, commonly referred to as a battery, is more correctly called a cell.
Cells come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes but for our purposes the ones known as ‘AA’
are studied here. Indeed for RC Lasers they are the only ones permitted by the class rules. There
are a number of different types of AA cell. There are Nickel/Cadmium (Ni Cad) cells and there are
Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). The latter now being the most common as they have a larger
capacity (more on that later).
There are a couple of important features of cells that must first be understood, These are namely
their voltage and capacity. Luckily for us NiCad and NiMH cells both provide a voltage of 1.2
volts, but even in the AA size there are many different capacities ranging from 500 milliampere
hours(mAH) to 2,300 mAH. This is where things get a bit more complicated!
The voltage (quoted in volts believe it or not) is the electrical pressure within the cell; a bit like the
air pressure in your car tyre. The capacity (described later) is the amount of electricity it can store
when fully charged. Obviously a bigger tyre can hold more air and thus has more capacity but it’s
not at all obvious how the same physical size of cell can hold more electricity. Somehow the
manufacturers have found ways to do it. It has something to do with the way the cells are put
together and the chemicals used in them.
When a number of cells are connected together, as shown, we get a battery pack or simply a
‘battery’.
Cells in plastic holders, as supplied with the Laser, are fine for casual use but can be prone to
problems when used extensively, or get wet, especially with sea water. In the boat it is
preferable to use 5 cells prewired together. These can be purchased from a number of sources
(see end). In a battery the cells are connected end-to-end and produce a voltage that is simply
the sum of the bits.
Page | 30
The receiver, rudder servo and winch in the Laser need 6 volts to drive them effectively so we
use 5 cells (5 x 1.2 = 6). Not 4, as this would give only 4.8 volts which is insufficient to effectively
drive the winch. The transmitter works within the range 9.6 to 12.0 volts so we use 8 cells. (8 x
1.2 = 9.6). That is sufficient for the transmitter.
What may appear strange is that the capacity is not increased when we connect cells together in
the way we do. It would seem logical to think that a larger ‘tank’ should hold more capacity but
this is not the case with batteries connected in the way we use them. The extra cells are in fact
needed to generate the higher ‘pressure’.
So, connecting 5 NiMH cells of 1100 mAH capacity gives us a battery of 6 volts and 1100 mAH
capacity. With that capacity we can draw 110 mA for 10 Hours. We could also draw 55 mA for 20
hours. We might even draw 220 mA for 5 hours. However if we try to draw too much the capacity
is reduced. We certainly could not draw 1100 Ma for 1 hour!
To get the electricity ‘out’ we first have to put it in. In fact we have to put in about 50% more than
we take out. The extra gets lost in the chemical reactions that take place while charging. We
need a voltage higher than the battery voltage to get the charge to go into the battery. Something
like 1.4 volts per cell. That’s about 7 volts for a 5 cell battery and 11 volts for the 8 cells in the
transmitter. It varies a bit depending on the capacity of the battery and hence the current needed
to charge it, and all batteries need a bit more as they age.
When freshly charged the battery will initially provide that higher voltage but it fairly quickly
subsides to its ‘nominal’ level. Most batteries are designed to be charged safely over 15 hours
and at a current expressed in milliamps that is 10% of their capacity in mAH. So, our 1100mAH
battery needs charging at 110 milliamps for 15 hours. Therefore our 1100mAH batteries need
chargers that are capable producing 110mA at over7 volts, for the 6 volt boat battery and 110mA
at over 11 volts for the 9.6 volt transmitter batteries.
Battery chargers come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and capabilities, with prices to match.
Ideally you need a charger matched to your own battery set up. The type of charger most
commonly seen in shops is that which charges two pairs of cells at one time. This type can be
used but it will be tedious doing 4 at a time and the charger may not match your cells anyway. In
other words a bit hit and miss. And you will need a special cell holder for the boat in order to take
the 5 cells needed. Chargers commonly supplied with radio sets, when purchased separately
from the Laser, often have two outlets; one each for the receiver (boat) battery and one for the
transmitter.
Beware however, the outlet for the boat battery may be set up for a 4 cell battery only. Therefore
it will not produce sufficient voltage to charge a 5 cell battery, though it may appear to do so. This
is one occasion that RC Laser newcomers, possibly having flown model aircraft in the past where
4 cells (4.8 volts) is the common standard, get caught out. Congratulations if you have avoided
that trap!
There are much cleverer chargers on the market that can charge batteries over a wide voltage
range and automatically keep the current to the chosen value. Top end chargers can also
automatically detect when the battery is fully charged and stop charging. If you are impatient
there are chargers that will do the job in a lot less than 15 hours.
The simple, reliable way, is to get a charger that is matched to charge your batteries in 15 hours
(often quoted as 14 to 16 but this is not critical). Equip yourself with a 24 hour timer (about £5
from B & Q etc) and set it to be ‘on’ from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. Sometime during Saturday
morning set the clock right, plug in the charger and batteries and switch on. Your batteries will be
‘done nicely’ ready for sailing on Sunday.
Page | 31
Finally if the above still leaves you perplexed then get someone who understands batteries and
charging to advise you. Don’t take a chance with a random selection of cells and chargers.
35 Pre-season Maintenance
This is not meant to be the definitive maintenance guide for
the RC Laser, but a few things to keep an eye on, and the
odd tip that might prove useful as you get into the new
season.
Let’s start from the very top.
Take a close look at the top of the luff sleeve on all your
sails, chances are that some wear will be showing where the
sail sits on the mast tip. A quick application of sail repair tape
should do the trick, but make sure your sail is clean and dry
before sticking it on. If you’ve been sailing in salt water, give your sail a rinse beforehand. To
make life easier for the sail, it’s a good idea to slightly sand the sharp edges off the mast tip.
My sails are a year old now, and have had a very full seasons racing, yet show no real signs of
deterioration. The worst damage I tend to see on Laser sails seems to be due to excessive
flapping, mainly on the C Rig in wild conditions. This shows as creasing and softening of the
single ply material in front of the double leech reinforcement, or gradual delamination of the
double ply. There’s no real fix for this, so prevention is the only cure!
So apart from head wear and a little discolouration over the years, the sails appear lightly
constructed but well able to withstand a few seasons racing if looked after properly.
Now onto the boom, the biggest tip here is to get a new one and cut it down to the approved 17”
for the C Rig - the difference in handling and manoeuvrability makes it well worth the modest
outlay!
Check that your booms are straight, permanently, or pre-bent booms are against the rules, it has
been known for skippers to be pulled up about this at past events!
Consider fitting quick release clips to your
clew outhaul lines and mainsheet. These
make for quick and easy rigging and rig
swapping. The ones I use (see photos)
are supplied by any fishing tackle shop
and they just go through the eye of the
boom slider and have worked faultlessly
over the year. A larger clip can be used on
the mainsheet for extra piece of mind.
That’s about it for the rig, so turning to the hull, the first thing I’d do is take out each servo in turn,
clean them up around the splined shaft to remove any old grease or dirt, wipe away dirt and
grease from inside and outside of the hull where the servo is located, re-pack the top of the servo
with a good, thick coat of silicone grease, re-fit the servo and make sure that the rubber block
under the servo is a really tight fit, wrap tape around the block for a
better fit, this is essential for ensuring that your boat is watertight.
As well as the above, it is advisable to make and fit a foam washer
above the deck between the rudder servo shaft and the plastic ‘tiller’
Page | 32
fitting which screws down to the shaft (see photo). Keep this foam washer liberally filled with
silicone grease and I can virtually guarantee you will not loose a rudder servo through water
ingress (Ed. This would need to be a thin and very soft sponge rubber to avoid undue friction
resulting in excess battery drain).
Now the on/off switch, perhaps the biggest source of trouble I’ve had all year. It’s probably down
to water getting into the switch resulting in bad connections. I’ve replaced a few over the year on
the three boats that we have, but have had better reliability recently since taking out the switch,
packing under the rubber cover with silicone grease and refitting. The rubber cover is prone to
hardening in sunlight and splitting at deck level (see photo), this is not always evident without
taking it out and inspecting it. It makes sense to replace this item before the start of the season.
Replacements are available from the Sail RC website. Keep the rubber lubricated with grease or
Vaseline to keep it supple.
If you sail regularly then doing the above servo maintenance about three times a year should
ensure your boat stays waterproof and reliable.
A close look at the plastic ‘D’ shaped loop on top of the
keel, where it comes through the deck, is worthwhile to
check for any cracks around the swivel pin for the plastic,
rotating clip (see photo). This is the point that takes most of
the load from the heavy keel. If you’re prone to dropping
your boat into the water (not recommended), or the swivel
clip is excessively tight, damage could occur here with the
resultant failure and loss of the keel. If the swivel is almost
too tight to turn you can try filing a millimetre off the flats on
the keel moulding (see photo), this will allow the keel to go
further through the hull, making the swivel easier to turn,
but having no effect on the keel position once the swivel has been properly located (Note:
removing ‘moulding flashing’ is permitted under the class rules).
If you see a crack, try lightly sanding the plastic either side of the crack and coat with epoxy
mixed with a bit of filler. I can’t promise that this will be 100% effective, but I did this repair on an
older boat and it’s still going strong. Alternatively, consider carrying a replacement keel -
obtainable from Peterkin.
Whilst you’ve got the epoxy, or Araldite out, get up close to the brass
mainsheet eye in the deck and have a look to see if there is any gap at the
bottom of the loop. If you’ve fitted a thin Dyneema mainsheet it will find, and
get through, the most microscopic gap. Screw the eye right down to the
deck, get a strong pair of pliers to squeeze the loop and then put a blob of
epoxy around the base (see photo) - that’ll sort it for good!
These measures, and other bits of general cleaning maintenance, should see your boat is turned
out in rude health - but don’t neglect your transmitter. Keep your aerial clean and straight, wipe it
down with WD40 to lubricate it, once you’ve got it extending freely, wipe off any excess with a
soft, absorbent cloth. If you experience any servo twitching, a light spray of WD40 onto the ‘pots’
inside the transmitter can quickly cure this.
I’ve found it a good idea to mark the central positions of
the mainsheet and rudder fine adjusters with a blob of
white paint (see photo), it gives you a quick reference
when you glance down at your handset during a race, and
ensures that you are not inadvertently sailing with too
much mainsheet tension (overloading the winch, and just
Page | 33
generally going slowly) or fighting an off-centre rudder without realising it. This simple and easy
modification is really useful if you use a transmitter cover, which tend to make it even harder to
see the fine details of your servo trims.
You probably thought your Laser was going to be maintenance-free. I’m afraid not, but compared
to my recent experiences of the One-metre class I can assure you that Laser ownership is a
doddle, and it just serves to illustrate how well the boat was conceived and executed by Bruce
Kirby and John Elmaleh. It has its quirks, but ownership is a joy!
If you’ve got any tips you’d like to pass on, please let me know.
36 Take good care of your keel - it’s vulnerable and can readily be damaged
Just as with any other boat your keel is vulnerable and can readily damaged whether in or out of
the boat, in a number of ways e.g. coming ashore and grounding fast, dropping when handling,
throwing the boat into the water, allowing the boat to fall, or be blown, off the stand etc.
If you damage your keel in any way you MUST keep to the rules when considering whether to
repair or replace. Section D.2.1 Keel and Rudder of the class rules says” The keel and rudder
may be sanded for the sole purpose of removing rough mold ridges. The shape and
smoothness of the keel and rudder may not be changed in any way. Damage to the ballast
lead coating may be filled, faired and recoated.”
So take care. You have been warned.
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