MONDEO 1 8TD ENGINE TUNING MODIFICATIONS GUIDE ENDURA DE 1 8 TURBO DIESEL

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MONDEO 1 8TD ENGINE TUNING MODIFICATIONS GUIDE ENDURA DE 1 8 TURBO DIESEL Powered By Docstoc
					MONDEO 1.8TD ENGINE TUNING MODIFICATIONS GUIDE (ENDURA-DE & 1.8
TURBO DIESEL)
AIR FILTER MODIFICATIONS – I originally tried a K&N Panel filter replacement, but didn’t
see any noticeable difference in throttle response. So then I fitted the K&N 57i induction kit
from www.filterpower.co.uk <http://www.filterpower.co.uk/> – it consists of a cone filter, MAF
bracket and cold air feed and costs over £100. When I removed the standard air box to fit it, I
extended the existing cold air feed to reach nearer the new cone and also fitted the K&N cold air
feed. It did make the car feel more responsive, and give a nice sound.
However, I wanted a larger cone so have fitted a BK Racing item from
www.powerandperformance.co.uk <http://www.powerandperformance.co.uk/> which worked
out a lot cheaper than buying a K&N 57i kit (because then you could make your own bracket
very easily and get some duct pipe from B&Q or an old hoover to make the cold air feed). Then I
got a custom heat shield for the cone filter from Mondeo Sports Fabrications.
The cold air feed can be any type of plastic or metal flexible duct pipe, fix it in place under the
cone so its not touching, and route it to the lower grill in the bumper. Fix in place using cable
ties.
Its worth cleaning the MAF sensor while you have got the airbox off, inside the MAF housing
you will see a small round tube with 2 small wires in it. Give them a spray with carb cleaner,
taking care not to touch them.
INCREASING THE FUELLING AND TURBO BOOST– I have had the Turbo boost advanced
to 18PSI from 15PSI (standard boost) using a bleed valve. This can be done on the mk2 by
adjusting the actuator on the turbo, but I preferred having the bleed valve (costs approx £30) for
future adjustment. And the actuator is quite difficult to access. 18PSI is a sensible amount to
increase it to, more than that and the turbo is going to start struggling because it’s a small
low-pressure turbo. Also, higher turbo boost may cause head gasket failure or other damage. The
pipes for the bleed valve replace the single small thin loop pipe on the turbo, fix them on with
jubilee clips and then fasten the whole bleed valve to the adjacent pipe going into the brake servo
using cable ties to prevent it flopping about.
It’s a good idea to fit a boost guage to keep an eye on the boost level, if you find the boost
suddenly goes sky high its because the pipe has come off the bleed valve. If its running too low
or crept up, its simple to adjust the bleed valve (clockwise turns down the boost and vice versa).
When adjusting, use very small turns. The boost guage fits easily into the coin holder area in the
upper dash panel of the mondeo (alternatively mount it on the dash top, in an A-pillar pod, or in
a panel replacing the ashtray). The boost guage pipe can tee into the long (boost) pipe from the
turbo to the fuel pump, then run it through the grommet in the bulkhead just behind the fusebox
which is behind the glove box. The wiring for the illumination can be spliced into the clock
illumination wiring.
I tried silicon hose for the pipes to the bleed valve, and soon learnt they split all the time. So now
have used heavy duty braided pipe and that has been fine.
No matter how much you increase the turbo boost, the car will not actually go any faster unless
you have the fuelling increased on the fuel pump aswell (believe me I have tried it, and because
no extra fuel is there to use, there is no performance gain at all). If you run the boost above
20PSI it splits the intercooler u-bend pipe, and will start blowing coolant pipes etc. Run it
regularly at 23-25PSI and the turbo will not last very long and the head gasket blows.
The “on-boost” fuelling is what you need to make the turbo boost increase worth your while, and
it is turned up on a screw inside the fuel pump, unfortunately I don’t know exactly which screw
but from what I gather it needs doing by someone who knows their stuff because damage can be
done otherwise. This will also mean more smoke will come out of the exhaust when on full
throttle and at cold start, which is unburnt fuel.
I had the “on-boost” fuelling turned up, and the bleed valve fitted at www.dervdoctor.co.uk
<http://www.dervdoctor.co.uk> (near Derby) which is the same principle as chipping the car -
but it has to be done mechanically on the 1.8TD because it has no ECU.
The “pre-boost” fuelling (fuelling before the turbo kicks in) can be turned up using the screws
around the throttle mechanism. This can be done whether you have turned up your turbo boost or
not, because it makes the car much quicker off the mark at launch before the turbo actually kicks
in. I will post a picture of which screws to adjust at a later date.
See here <http://www.fordmondeo.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Diesel&Number=546541&page=0&fpart=1> for
details and photos of which screws to adjust.

Another tweak which can be done in this area is removing the throttle mechanism shock
absorber, this allows the engine to rev free-er, and back off the throttle quicker. There is a nut on
each end to undo to remove.
Please note, with the fuelling and turbo boost advanced in this way, the car will be much quicker
but also it will inevitably wear out engine components quicker if the car is driven hard all the
time. I have noticed since these modifications, the car still uses no oil and doesn’t use any extra
fuel. But, if I drive “lead footed” then it will use more fuel because more is going in to burn than
ford ever intended. It is worth changing the oil more frequently than the specified intervals with
these modifications done and use a high quality oil. Changing fuel filter and cambelt more
frequently would also be advisable.
UPGRADE TURBO:
Essex Turbochargers, and Turbo Force in Preston do a hybrid turbo conversion for the 1.8TD
and uprated actuator (£400 - £600). Its not cheap but will give a massive hike in power (the
standard turbo is very small). And then the turbo would be able to take higher boost.
DUMP VALVE:
Custom made Collins twin piston dump valve with Spec-R box, electronic controller, EGR
solenoid, micro switch and Samco hosing. Its arguable that a dump valve does nothing on a
diesel power-wise, but it does sound very good! Derv Doctor will fit you one for about £300 if
you don’t want to tackle the job yourself.
SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE – I use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Oil. The oil filters, sump
plug washers, fuel filters and pollen filters I use are all from Ford Parts department (no different
to Halfords prices and the Ford/Motorcraft components seem to be of a higher quality). I have
noticed it’s a good idea fitting a new sump plug every other service because they become worn
and difficult to remove. Changing the oil filter is easier if the drivers side (RHD) front wheel is
removed, and the small section of arch liner going over the drive shaft.
Check if the intercooler is dirty, they become choked up with muck and flies etc. 2 x 10mm bolts
on each side of the intercooler and one jubilee clip from the LH pipe is needed to be taken off, to
remove the intercooler. Then you can clean it in a bucket of hot soapy water/detergent/engine
bay cleaner etc. On mine it was seriously choked so I used thin wire to rod out between all of the
fins being careful not to damage the fins.
Check adjustment of throttle cable, over time they stretch and when the pedal is fully pressed,
you aren’t actually on full throttle.
Check the thin pipes around the turbo area and on the long (boost) pipe to the fuel pump to see if
they are beginning to perish and crack. Mine were, so I replaced them with heavy duty braided
pipe. Do not use silicon pipe for this purpose, it will split.
ENGINE BAY VENTILATION – I have remove the engine undershielding and fitted escort
cosworth bonnet vents to aid engine bay ventilation. I removed the bonnet sound deadening to
stop any heat soak which is going on in there. This sound deadening must remain if you keep the
standard intercooler position.
SHINEY ENGINE BAY BITS –
all from Mondeo Sports Fabrications
Polished Cam cover
Chromed OMP Front Strut brace – it was a red OMP strut brace for a mk1 mondeo zetec, but fit
my mk2 TD with no problems. I then got it chrome plated.
Bonnet lifters – made for a Corsa B but fit the mk1 and mk2 mondeo
EXHAUST UPGRADES – I have had fitted a twin exit stainless steel Powerflow made exhaust
custom cut into the rear RSAP bumper, to look like the ST200 but with larger oval exits. This
was done at a powerflow dealer ( www.powerandperfornance.co.uk
<http://www.powerandperfornance.co.uk/> near Norwich) and has made the car more
responsive, and gives a nice sounds. I have had the rear section (with no boxes) and the centre
section (with a smaller box) all done in larger bore pipe (57mm). There wasn’t much point
getting the front section done because little gain is to be had. But I am considering getting a
decat next because some of the Pug and VW TDi tuning guys have had good results from
decatting theirs. The Powerflow systems come with lifetime guarantee which is an added bonus.
I have known other people fit Mongoose systems (made for a mondeo V6), and remus backboxes
etc onto the mondeo TD and all seem to work well.
FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER CONVERSION:
Parts include several samco hoses, modified RS turbo crossover/charge carrier pipe, 2 lengths of
55mm steel pipe (450mm and 550mm), Mikalor hose clamp required on turbo to stop pipe
blowing off, cam cover bracket, Renault 21 turbo intercooler (soon to be replaced with large
Saab 9000 intercooler which fits perfectly in front of rad but wiring mod will be required to stop
the fan being on all the time when this saab I/C is fitted).
It has made a massive difference to the power on mine and now its less smokey, better on fuel,
and needs less turbo boost to sit at 70mph.
There is no lag whatsoever, considering the fairly long lengths of pipework to the I/C.
CO2 or mist onto the intercooler would help aswell. If you want to keep the I/C up the top you
could fit something like a subaru scoop above it, but remember its got the exhaust manifold and
red-hot turbo right under it so theres massive heatsoak especially if your running higher boost.
I have done a how-to with diagram labelling all the parts required, to see it, click here
<http://www.diesel-inside.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1872>

CAMS:
Piper cams list a upgraded cam for the 1.8diesel ford, but I rang them and they said it definitely
does not fit the 1.8TD. The only thing which could be done cam-wise is have the standard one
re-profiled for higher lift/duration etc.
MANAGEMENT:
Piggyback ECU cannot be fitted or anything like that, it’s a totally mechanical fuel pump so it
cant be done.
TRANSMISSION:
Different gear ratios would make the car much quicker. There is no uprated clutch available, but
the standard flywheel could be machined to lighten it.
INJECTORS:
Unknown if any bigger injectors will fit but I need to find out at what power the stock injectors
become “maxed out”.
NITROUS:
Works very very well on a diesel engine (more progressive), helps burn up some of the unburnt
fuel you normally see as black smoke when on full throttle. Unfortunately nobody I know of has
put NOS on a 1.8TD so I am wary of trying it, my car has high miles which also puts me off
fitting it but I may have a dabble with 25bhp jets on it. LPG is another possibility for increasing
power on a TD.
ENGINE INTERNALS:
Obviously lightened/balanced internals could be done, gas flowed/ported head, bigger valves etc
but I don’t know anyone who has done it yet.
ENGINE TYPES:
Mk1 Mondeo 1.8TD engine is called “1.8 DIESEL” as printed on cam cover, and “TURBO” is
written just above it. Early Mk2’s also had this engine and then it became the “ENDURA-DE”
for the rest of the run of the mk2. Very little difference apart from Endura has smaller turbo (less
lag) and different fuel pump and other minor differences. Early Mk1’s had no catalyst.

				
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