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					A Collection of Explosives Files



                                  Pipe Bombs
                               By The Mortician

     The first thing to do is get some gun powder, if you can buy it
you are
better off. You can get it at most gun shops if you are over 18, but
if not
then see the next section on how to make it. Now go down to a hardware
store
and buy lead piping about 4-6 inches long and 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches
thick. Get
two caps for each pipe. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe through
one
side, then put one cap on and fill the pipe up with powder. Put the
other
cap on. Stick a long fuse in the hole and use model glue or something
to
keep it in. Then light it and get away fast!!!!! The caps will
usually fly
off so if you have a target aim one of the caps at it and leave the
other one
1/2 turn from fully tight. But still stand way out of range as this is
very
dangerous.

       Call the Morgue at (201) 376-4462

     Another way that I have heard of seems that it might be less
effective,
but easier to make. Buy some pipe as said above, and put on of the
caps on.
Drop some sharp rocks into the bottom. Get a baby food jar, and fill
it with
vinegar. Screw the top on tightly, and slide it carefully down into
the
pipe. Now pour some baking soda into the pipe and put the other cap
on. To
start it, hit it sharply against the ground so that the rocks break the
jar,
then throw it. Wait two to five minutes and see what happens. I have
never
tested this, so I don't know if it works, although I've heard that it
gets
satisfying results.

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                                  Gun Powder
                               By The Mortician

The ingredients are:
Potassium Nitrate: 85%
Carbon(Charcol) : 12%
Sulfur           : 3%

     They are rough percentages but try a little like that and play
with it.
The more Potassium you add, the faster it will burn. The less sulfur,
the
slower. The less carbon, the less it will burn. What to do is just
put them
all in a mixing jar, I used a little cardboard box with low sides, and
then
ground it up and mix it together. You can get Potassium Nitrate at
most drug
stores. It is commonly known as Salt Peter.

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                      How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin

CH2ONO2
|                    3/2 N2 + 3 CO2
CHONO2 ---------->      +
|       Ignition     5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2
CH2ONO2

(How Nitro explodes--note that the by products are nothing but
nitrogen,
carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)

     Nitroglycerin (heretofore Nitro) is a very powerful high-
explosive. I
am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't--the first person to
make
it probably blew himself up and his friend got the information off his
notes.
Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times
harder to
make but also ten times safer to make.

To make Nitro:

     Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have
a
specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid.
This
is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric
INTO
the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid
solutions
together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper
measures
for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as
possible.
Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it
won't mix
thoroughly and the reaction could go too fast--which causes enough heat
to
ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then
CAREFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will
visibly
precipitate immediately. There will be twice as much Nitro as you used
glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon
as you
have separated it--this helps it not to go off spontainously.

     NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of specific
gravity can
be found in most chemistry books. You can get fuming nitric and
sulfuric
acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is
positively
STUPID to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the
stuff
wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor
of
having it go off by itself. (I added too much glycerine at a time) I
was
across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it
was
on, as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by
only 25
grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy
and
you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go
off if
you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if
it
gets old I wouldn't play catch with it.

     Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarbonate,
you can
make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply
mixing
it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten
parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the
same
amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when
wrapped
in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite",
but
that was back in 1896.

If you have any questions, comments or subpoenas, send E-mail.

Karl Marx

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                       How to Make a Working Letter Bomb
                             By The Rebel Warhead
     Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is
making
sure it will detonate properly, or that it is not obvious that it is a
bomb.

Mixtures:

     About 75% Aluminum powder with 25% Iron powder is best. This is a
light
version of Thermite, since it is in an enclosed space (the envelope, as
described below).

     Mix the above well. The idea is this: Iron can burn, at a very
high
temperature, but it needs a little help. This is what the Aluminum is
for.
Aluminum burns at a relatively low temperature, so it is used as a
catalyst
of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite the Aluminum, which then
burns
the Iron, at a suitable tempature. Since this is going off in an
enclosed
space, it will burn much hotter and slower and with more violence than
a
normal mix. I advise you to play with this for a while, learning your
mixture.

Now for the fun stuff:

     Get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double
layered.
Seperate the layers. In the inner layer goes the wonderful mixture,
one that
you are satisfied with. Keep this section seperate. The outer layer
can be
either Magnesium, for a flash bomb, or possibly a material of your own
choice.

     Now for the difficult part! The fuse. We can make a fuse from
another
set of chemicals: Iodine Crystals, and Amonium Hydroxide, in liquid
form.
You should mix these together, in about an equal amount, but you might
want
to use a heavy amount of Iodine if pressed for time. These form a new
crystalline structure, about an inch long. These are highly violtile,
and I
advise keeping them protected. They have about the impact power of an
M-100
for a teaspoon.

     I put these in a protective cardboard lining, and put them at the
top of
the envelope. Rig this so it puts pressure on the crytals when the
package
is opened, but not from just squeezing the envelope. This is tricky,
and I
can't explain it here.   Seal this up, and you have a working letter
bomb.

     By the way, since the bulk of letter bombs are easily
recognizable, they
rarely make it past the post office.

***********************************************************************
******
*    I frown upon the use of letter bombs as a means of getting even
because*
*you never know who it is going detonate around, or that it will even
be    *
*them. There are simpler ways of getting even, so take one of them.
It is *
*also a federal offence to make and send one. Procede at you own risk.
*
***********************************************************************
******

How to avoid letter bombs:

     Since you made it this far into the file, I will tell you how to
avoid
being detonated with a letter bomb you may have had sent to you.

1)   Never open a letter bomb the way it wants to be opened! This is
the way
     of possible avoiding the fuse. If it is set to detonate on
contact with
     air, then this will not work.

2)   Don't squeeze, bend, or anything!

3)   If if looks like a bomb, then don't even touch it!   This is the
best way
     to avoid problems!

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                                 Blowing up a Car
                             An Article from the Book:

                             The Poor Man's James Bond
                                   By Kurt Saxon

     NOTE - THIS ARTICLE IS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO
PSYCH OUT
THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACTICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE IN
MIND, THEN
READ ON:

     The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the
hood.
Explosives are placed as near the occupants as possible. The fuse,
homemade,
commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns around the exhaust
manifold.
After a few minutes on the road the exhaust manifold gets almost red
hot and
ignites the fuse.

     This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it
blows up
on the road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't.
Besides, if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver,
the
driver may start the engine before the passenger gets into the car.
You can
see how embarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you?

     Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are
too
set in thier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of
seeing a
car blow up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on
the
road.

     They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of
electric
wire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric
blasting
cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are
connected
to the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the
input
side of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in the
car's
frame as a ground.

     This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure
enough,
there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and
one to
a ground. This usually results in misfires and no end of frustrations.

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                              Soft Drink Can Bomb
                           An Article from the Book:

                           The Poor Man's James Bond
                                 By Kurt Saxon

   This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom
of a
soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or
other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The
fuse is
then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
   After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or
glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or
wall
where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to
five
minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on a passersby.

   It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone
else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink
from
your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast!


               ||
               ||
               || <-chemical ingiter
           ____||___
           |   !! |
           | ----- |
           |%|   | |
           | |   |%|
           | |   | | <- big firecracker
           | |   | |
           | ----- |
           |%      |
           |   %   |
           |      %|
           | %     | <- nuts & bolts
           |   %   |
           |_______|

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                                Making Thermite
                                 By X Calibur

     Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through
practically
anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack
open a
Fortress Fone. Now here's how you make it, it is very simple. The
first
step in making Thermite is to make Hematite. In layman's terms,
Hematite is
Iron Oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of
rust.
You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. To do this
you will
need a source of DC power. An electric train transformer is perfect.
Attach
the rod to the POSITIVE wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire
in
opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in
the
water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup
sit
overnight. In the morning, there will be dark red crud in the jar.
Filter
all the crud out of the water or just fish it out with a spoon. Now
you will
need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice
light
red.

    The other ingrediant you will need is aluminum filings. You can
either
file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at
your
local hardware store. (If you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure
aluminum. It is called Duralumin.) That's almost it. Now, mix
together the
rust and aluminum filings. That's Thermite!

    Now, to light it. Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of
the
Thermite. (Either steal it from a chemistry lab or buy it at your
local
hardware store. If you can't, order it from a chemical supply house.
It's
pretty cheap.) The ribbon should stick into the Thermite like a fuse.
Now
you light the magnesium with a blowtorch. (Don't worry. The torch
isn't hot
enough to light the Thermite.) When the burning magnesium reaches the
Thermite, it will light. When the Thermite burns, get the hell back!
That
stuff can vaporize carbon steel. It does wonders on human flesh.

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| Call the Noble House (415) 365-5073   Call the Roman Forum (415) 328-
5916 |
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