My Broken Journey Jamie Green, Playa del Rey, California
y interest with Broken Dwarfs started at the onset of my getting into Netherland Dwarfs after the 2000 ARBA convention. I purchased several REW’s from Linda Larsen of California, who was getting out of Dwarfs at the time. Included in this group of Rabbits was a Chestnut Buck, Tequila who was the result of a Broken Chestnut to REW cross. Tequila was out of Linda Larsen’s Broken Chestnut buck, Uno. Linda got her start in Broken by breeding her REW’s to a couple of Brokens she purchased from Murray and Bettey Floyd from Hemet, Ca. I understand the Murray’s purchased their first Brokens at a convention that was held back east in the late ’80 or early 90’s. I was later able to concentrate on finding other Brokens that came from Linda’s herd in order to get a nucleus of Brokens to breed with.
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TAR’s Painted Success
Photo Courtesy Mindy Borer
I have first and foremost concentrated on making Broken Netherlands that are competitive with the other varieties in type, head and eyes, and ears. I have always felt that color could be worked on in time. With that being said, I am pleased with the progress with the family of Brokens that I have in respect to the type that they carry. I think it is very important to develop a family or line of rabbits when putting on a presentation as I think it helps to have similar rabbits in the presentation that are put before the ARBA Standards Committee. This way it helps to show uniformity in the presentation. I have concentrated primarily on Broken Selfs, Agoutis and Tan patterned in my breeding stock. As far as color and patterns on Brokens this is the area of my breeding that I now want to start to devote more time. I do not have any pre described rules or logic that will say if you breed an x-percentage colored Broken to a y-percentage colored Broken, you will get perfectly marked Brokens all the time. I just do not think it works that way, be prepared to get your share of pet-shop bound rabbits. It can be a luck of the draw as far as color and markings go. The one thing I do try to avoid using is the Charlies (these are usually false Charlies) and they tend to throw more Charlies unless there is one that you just can’t do without type-wise. Same can go for full heavy blanketed Brokens. Remember it is a disqualification for color percentage that is under 10% and over 50% in the judges opinion. One thing I do believe is that cleaning up the stray white guard hairs on our Broken dwarfs is a little tougher than say some of the other breeds of Brokens. I am a believer that rabbits with roll back style coats have a slightly, longer and slightly coarser guard hair than their fly back coated counterparts and as a result the guards hairs appear to be ever so slightly more prominent on a roll back coated rabbit. Because of this phenomenon, I think it is just slightly more challenging in trying to get a pattern set. Remember, it took our Broken lop breeder friends many years to develop and set their patterns. Broken Dwarfs are still basically in their infancy. If you are not breeding Brokens, I ask that you consider. It is very challenging and there is just something about going out to the nest box and looking in on newborns and getting just a little added surprise with a marked rabbit there.
TAR’s Mona Lisa
Photo Courtesy Mindy Borer
TAR’s Rembrant
Photo Courtesy Mindy Borer
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Fred, Leslie, Courtney & Mark Bond (Fred, Courtney & Leslie pictured) Owosso, Michigan
"If it ain't Broken, fix it".
phrase our daughter Courtney came up with as we were getting ready for a feed promotion here in Michigan this Spring. We had a lot of fun at that show. Armando Cabrera judged Dwarfs and many Michigan breeders showed up to make a nice show. Phil and Margaret Woollet came and Phil wanted to show me some of his young stock. He uncrated a beautiful Broken Chestnut buck and a very, very nice young Charlie marked doe. Both of which I would keep if I were him.
Mindy Borer Archbold, Ohio
MindyJo@TranquilAcresRabbitry.com
www.TranquilAcresRabbitry.com
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Jacobs’ POW
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have had Brokens in my barn for the past 6 or so years now and I have to say that this variety, regardless the color it comes in, is definitely my favorite. I think it’s because I’ve always had an infatuation with Paint horses, but never got one – I suppose this my way of compensating for it! My start with Brokens came when I purchased LR’s Smudge, from Susan Meier. Smudge was a nice Broken chestnut brood doe, but with very little color to speak of. Just a couple of smudges on her nose, some on her ears and a small spot on her back were the only areas of color. Things have changed since that first lightly marked Broken doe. I was very selective about which Brokens I kept from the litters, only using those who had more color and better patterns than the generation before. I also brought in some stock from Gary & Brenda Cole which really added to the amount of color I was getting in my patterns. Breeding Brokens is definitely challenging, especially when it comes to the patterns. Each rabbit, Solid or Broken, carries the genetic information needed to make a specific pattern. You can clearly see on a Broken which rabbit carries the modifiers to make a heavy pattern and which carry those to make a light pattern, or which rabbit carries modifiers for small spots and which carries those to make large spots. Just look at breeds like the Checkered Giant and English Spot, their patterns are caused by the exact same gene as every other Broken out there, but their patterns are very distinct and different from each other. The trickiest part, I have found, is finding a Solid with the right modifiers that will help, and not hurt your pattern. It’s a lot of trial and error. I’ve kept notes and records on my rabbits as to which Solids produce what patterns when paired to a specific Broken. Some of them just won’t throw a nice pattern regardless how many litters they’ve produced or which Broken they’re paired with. Since the Brokens have gained popularity, there’s been a lot of talk about them, and a lot of questions. Below are some of the questions that I am frequently asked:
This brings me to the reason I am writing this article. It was Fall Convention 2003 in Kansas when Jamie Green sold us a beautiful young Black buck "X1". Through our conversation he continually referred to his Broken project and told us that the sire to this buck was a Broken Dwarf. This conversation sparked curiosity in me personally. We had carted our children Courtney and Mark around the country for years and we always were proud and excited to breed rabbits with the toughest classes and largest numbers. Over the last few years I had watched the Mini Rex, the Holland Lop, the Polish, and even the Fuzzy Lops and Jersey Woolies catching and even surpassing us in number. Why was this happening? After all, Dwarfs are prettier, have more varieties and just seem much more appealing in general. We were missing something, some component genetically, something that other breeds had that we didn't. Jamie's project kept coming up in family discussions. Would the Brokens pass after all the years of controversy? Would the Dwarf club embrace the thought of another variety? Would the Standard’s Committee let them through? Then in California at the nationals there were more conversations with Jamie. I was convinced then that bringing the Brokens on board would bring new excitement into our breed. I feel that Brokens will boost the numbers, improve the quality, and offer new challenges to older and new breeders alike who are ready for a change. We believe that all of us are charged with breeding a Dwarf that makes it to the end of the day and wins!! No matter who did it, where the rabbit came from or even what color it is. We should all be working for unity to get the Netherland Dwarfs to the "BIS" table! It was at that show we acquired our first Broken buck from Jamie and we were off on the road to the Brokens. We began breeding him right away. The numbers have grown and so has the excitement. I can't tell you how much fun it is to find Broken babies in the nest boxes. Jamie has painstakingly presented two wonderful groups of Brokens that were conditioned and developed by him to get the Broken Dwarfs accepted so that we all can enjoy breeding them in the future. We've all heard the old saying, "Right Judge, Right Rabbit, Right Day". Try this "Right Person (Jamie Green), Right project (Brokens), Right Year (2006). Please support the project and celebrate the thought of more Dwarfs than any other breed at the next big shows. Respectfully submitted, Leslie Bond √
Bonds Broken Doe
Photo Courtesy the Bond family
Jacobs’ BAM
How do you make a Broken? The Broken pattern is caused by the English Spotting Gene, (or what some call the Broken gene) “En”. A Broken carries one Broken gene and one Solid gene – so the genotype is written as “Enen” (En = Broken, en = Solid).You need to have at least one Broken parent in order to produce Brokens in the litter. Please don’t confuse a BEW sport with a Broken. They’re not the same thing. (Check last month’s Digest for more information on BEWs and BEW sports.) On a side note, it is possible for BEW or REW to carry the Broken gene – you just can’t see the white spots on the white rabbit! Do you have to breed Broken to Broken? No you don’t need to breed Broken to Broken. I almost always breed Broken to Solid. Breeding Broken to Solid should statistically yield 50% Brokens and 50% Solids – however according to “rabbit math” that almost never happens. Broken to Broken will statistically yield 50% Brokens, 25% Solids and 25% Double Brokens. Double Brokens carry two Broken genes and therefore will have too much white, causing them to be Charlies. (You can then take these double Brokens and breed them back to a Solid and produce 100% Brokens in your litters.) What color can you breed the Brokens to? I always tell the person not to see the rabbit as a Broken, but as its Solid counterpart. So if you have a Broken Black Otter, don’t look at it as a Broken, but as a Black Otter, and breed accordingly. Some varieties, like Broken Siamese Sable and Broken Siamese
TAR’s Bob Ross
Photo Courtesy Mindy Borer
Jacobs’ Bam
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Bonds Broken Sr. Buck
Photo Courtesy the Bond Family
Brokens Presentation no. 2
Smoke Pearl, can produce Broken Himis (these will look like normal Himis, but with no color on their feet) or Broken REW – so just be on your toes! Are the Brokens going to mess up the Solids (poor type, stray white hairs, white spots on the nose/toes/feet, white toenails, white armpits, etc.)? I would like to say that from my breedings (some of which are now 6 and 7 generations deep with my Broken lines) I have found this thought to be far from the truth. I have had no more rabbits from these lines with white hairs, spots, armpits, etc. In fact I’d have to say that I’ve had fewer of these problems showing up. It all depends on the rabbit, and again those modifiers that they carry, not the Broken gene its self. As for them hurting the type of the current Solids, it’s going to depend on what the type is on the rabbits you start off with and how selective you are in culling. I would like to proudly say that my entire entry for “Race to Indy” had at least 1 Broken parent. I did quite well with these animals, placing all but one somewhere in the top 10 of their class. (And as most of you know – some of those classes were very large!) Some of the Brokens out there now appear to have stray whites in their pattern. Why is this? The “stray whites” in the coats aren’t really stray whites. It’s more of an issue with the size and amount of colored spots in the coat. A Broken with a lot of small spots tends to have a lot of tiny “holes” in the color where small patches of white appear. These holes are very small and only a few white hairs come through, causing the pattern to look muddy or to give the look of “stray whites”. These animals, when first born, look like they’re stippled using an extremely fine pointed marker (if you’re not familiar with this art form, you might not understand what I’m talking about). The best way to fix this issue with the white hairs is to fix the pattern – selecting animals with larger spots or animals with a much clearer break between the white and colored sections. In closing, I would like to thank you for allowing me to share my experiences and opinions about breeding this beautiful variety. I also encourage those of you who are interested in this variety to not be afraid of it. It will take time and dedication to get just the right pattern, but the end result is well worth it. In my mind, there is nothing prettier than a “painted” Dwarf. Finally, I would like to give my congratulations to Jamie Green on his two presentations thus far. Your Brokens are very beautiful and I wish you the best of luck with your third and final presentation! To see more photos of Broken dwarfs, please go to www.TranquilAcresRabbitry.com/BrokenGallery.asp My love for the Brokens started the first weekend in January of 1995. I went to my very first Rabbit Show. I had been breeding unpedigreed rabbits for about a year and loved every minute of it, yet I felt as if there was something more out there. I wanted to start improving the type of my mutt bunnies, so I went to the show, armed with a whopping $25 dollars to invest in my first pedigreed herd buck. You can tell already that I learned a lot on that fateful day. On that same morning I meet Linda Larsen, I kept stopping in front of her “For Sale” bunnies. She noticed that I was always staring at a particular Broken Smoke Pearl junior buck. I shared my plans with her. Among many other things, Linda explained that Brokens were not yet recognized (well, I saw the little guy right in front of me with my own two eyes, I recognized it was a Pinto Dwarf, and that was all that I cared about at the time), she ended up donating this adorable little buck to me by lunchtime, and I have been hooked ever since. Start with a Broken animal with the type and percent pattern that you want and like. If you get a Broken buck , you can put him to all or some of your does and you will be fairly instantly into breeding Brokens. If you start with a Broken doe, things will obviously progress much more slowly due to numbers alone. Pick a Broken animal in the same variety or varieties that you already have established in your barn full of awesome little show Jewels. The first most important rule is that "Pattern Begets Pattern". The pattern that you start with is generally the pattern that you will end up with. You want to start with a Broken with the acceptable percent pattern and pattern type that you like. The acceptable standard is between 10% and 50% color over the surface of the animal. A 10% blanket parent generally produces offspring with 10% blanket patterns. The same goes for 40% blanket and likewise for a 75% blanket pattern. Make sure your animal has a butterfly, the color spot around the nose, kind of in the shape of a butterfly if viewed from the front. It should have a full butterfly, on both the left side and the right side of the nose. If it has only half of a butterfly you will have some problems getting a full butterfly, but it can happen. It is also best if the animal has fully colored ears with very little or no white sections on the ears. Pay close attention to the color pattern on the body of the animal. Is the pattern very light/little? Is it almost an entire Solid colored blanket, or polka dots, or a blanket with lots of white hairs in it? I find that these last animals are generally heavily polka dotted and that the white hairs are really the white area in between the colored spots, (unless you started your breeding program with colored animals with lots of scattered white hairs, then you can not distinguish between these two). If you look at the babies during their first week of hair growth, this is the best time to tell the coat pattern. If you start with a false Charlie (generally eye circle and ear color only), that is the only color pattern that you will get. Let the Hotot look-a-likes go to the pet store. If I had to chose between a lightly marked or a heavily marked animal, I would always chose a more heavily patterned animal. In my experience it is much easier to cull down the pattern than it is to breed more color into the pattern. Broken certificate holder and ARBA Judge Jamie Green prepared for his second showing at the 82nd Annual ARBA Convention in Indianapolis, IN. He needs to present three pairs of Broken Dwarfs to prove consistency within the proposed variety. One pair must be from his original showing. The ARBA Standards Committee member will closely examine each animal for consistency and uniformity in type. (Standards Committee Chair and ARBA Judge Tex Thomas Pictured) Since this is Jamie’s second presentation, the ARBA Standard’s Committee will also determine that Jamie’s animals are breeding true to type and color and that they are reproducing themselves consistently. Each member of the ARBA Standard’s Committee will have the opportunity to inspect Jamie’s Brokens. (ARBA Judge and Standards Committee Member Scott Williamson pictured). After the presentation they will meet with Jamie to discuss his proposal. Then a majority vote will decide whether his Brokens pass or fail....
It may have a coat pattern, it may have lots of white, but don’t be deceived. This Dwarf is not a Broken and has no broken gene (En) in its pedigree. It’s a BEW Mismark, also called a Vienna carrier (Vv). Back when BEW Mismarks were sometimes referred to as Brokens the term was confusing to many new breeders. Thinking they had a showable Broken bunny, these folks were surprised to see them immediately kicked off the table. Know what you’re buying. Check the pedigree for a sign of BEW in the background. Check too for the telltale blaze down the nose. Check for a marbled or blue eye. If you see any or all of these signs, you may conclude that it’s great for a BEW program BAD for Brokens.
Karen Picard Quartz Hill, California capicard_5@msn.com
hank you Sandra for asking me to write something about breeding Brokens for this up coming issue. My name is Karen Picard. I have been breeding Dwarfs for the last eleven years. I have also been breeding Broken Netherland Dwarfs for the past 11 consecutive years, and I have been breeding Tri-colored Netherland Dwarfs, off and on, for the past 10 years. During this very patient time period I have learned a lot of things to do, and a lot of things not to do. My persistence will hopefully pay off this fall when Jamie Green will present his wonderful collection for the third and final time. Let’s all wish him the best of luck to go along with the tons of very hard work that no one else has yet to be able to accomplish to date.
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Congratulations to Jamie Green. The second presentation was accepted by the ARBA Standard’s Committee. Jamie is now busily preparing for his third showing during the Dallas, Fort Worth ARBA Convention. Best of luck to you Jamie - We’re proud of your hard work!
- Photography courtesy of Mindy Borer
Dwarf Digest
Spring 2006
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When I talk about a colored or Solid animal, I am referring to your regular show and breeding stock as opposed to a Broken animal. For your colored stock, use only correctly colored animals in your Broken breeding program. If the color isn’t correct to begin with, "breaking" the color up with white patches certainly isn’t going to fix the problem. Some people think that they can slip in their typey colored animals with white toe nails or white spots thinking that the DQ’s will be masked by the Broken gene. Well, they can be, but it just compounds the color problems later in the program, as in the example given above and explained further below. I have found that the best Broken pairing is using a well-patterned Broken animal with a colored animal out of a well patterned Broken animal. Theoretically it shouldn’t matter if the colored animal is from colored parents or from a colored and Broken parent, but my experience has proven that it makes a huge difference. The percentage of Broken offspring goes way up in my barn when the Solid parent is itself out of a Broken and a Solid. You can get Broken offspring when you breed a Broken to a Solid animal out of only Solid parents, but the percent of Broken offspring is less than the pairing mentioned above. I avoid, whenever possible, breeding a Broken to a Broken. When you do this pairing to the other breeds of rabbits, you can get true Charlies. When the animal is a true Charlie, then you can breed it to a colored animal and get 100% Broken kits. The Dwarfs seem to be plagued with false Charlies. You can never get a decent Broken out of them. I send them straight to the pet store. I never try to make a true Charlie because it just wastes my time. Here is the really cool thing, especially for those of you who are very hesitant about breeding Brokens. The colored offspring from your Broken program will never, ever produce Brokens when bred to another colored animal. Once the Broken gene is gone, it is gone. This is why you don’t want to be adding colored animals with white spots or white toenails. These DQ’s will reappear and wreak havoc with the rest of your colored breeding program or the program of the person you just sold your "colored" animal to. In my opinion this is how the rumor of Brokens producing white hairs, white spots, or white toenails got started. Theoretically a Broken to a colored should give you 50% Brokens and 50% colored kits in your nest box. In reality it is generally 25% Broken and 75% colored in the box. When I get an animal that does produce the higher percentage of Broken pattern I hang on to it. I have had Broken animals that will consistently produce 75% Broken offspring. Now if you followed why I suggested starting with the blanket pattern that you want/like then you may anticipate that the 75% pattern producers also produce 75% pattern producers themselves. Generally if a Broken animal produces only 10% Broken offspring, then generally those 10% Broken babies grow up to be only 10% Broken producing parents too. I would rather have an acceptable blanket patterned parent that produces one quarter of its babies with the similar pattern than a very lightly patterned parent that produces three quarters of it kits with its similarly sparse pattern. Ultimately you will get more showable offspring with the first scenario than with the later example. Over the past eleven years many of my animals have received Best Broken at the local
shows. My attendance at the larger shows has always been severely curtailed because of over a dozen surgeries. For the next 5 months I will be stuck at home again, recovering from another series of surgeries. As soon as I can get the wheelchair out to the barn again, I will be breeding the pants off of all of my Brokens. Hopefully I will be in traveling condition and can actually make it to Texas this year for Convention. Good Luck breeding your Brokens. Think of them as your party favor color additions to your already successful breeding programs. If anyone has any questions, comments, disputes with differences in your barn, please feel free to contact me at (661) 722-1157, 42701 40th St West, Quartz Hill, CA 93536, Or capicard_5@msn.com. Karen Picard
produces proper pattern. Notice I said generally in that last sentence. It has been my experience that our breed will produce false Charlies (a lightly marked rabbit that is genetically Enen) frequently. A false Charlie and a true Charlie look very similar on the outside, but the genes they carry that we can’t see are different. A true Charlie will never produce a Solid rabbit…no matter what you breed it to. It has two Broken genes, so it will pass a Broken gene to every one of its offspring, and as I stated earlier, any rabbit with a Broken gene will appear Broken. A false Charlie will produce Solids, Brokens, false Charlies, and true Charlies because it carries one Solid gene and one Broken gene. True Charlies are useful in breeding because when bred to a Solid, they will produce all Broken babies, most with the proper amount of color (10-50%). Probably the most frustrating problem I have dealt with is trying to get consistency in the Broken markings. I had a litter last year (Broken bred to Solid) with one 75% blanket patterned kit, one less than 10% colored, and one with no color except on its ears. I attribute this to the fact that the Broken gene is relatively new to Dwarfs, and we simply don’t know what pattern modifiers our Solids are carrying. The trick is to find out what Solids have the correct modifiers by keeping good records. If I breed a Solid to a poorly marked Broken and get a proper marked Broken, then that Solid is most likely carrying the right modifiers, and I will use it to breed into the Brokens again. I also like using Solids with a nicely marked Broken parent to take back into my Broken line. When breeding Brokens, it is key to keep the pattern clean and well balanced from the very beginning. I want to caution against the temptation to breed a Solid rabbit with a white nail, white spot, or scattered whites into your Broken line. Breed your Brokens like you would your Solids. Would you use that rabbit with color faults to breed to another Solid? If the answer is no, then you shouldn’t be breeding it to your Brokens, either. Doing so will only perpetuate the problem in future generations. Unfortunately, there are those among us who fear that breeding in Brokens will cause more of the problems mentioned above. I ask those individuals if they have ever bred a REW to a colored rabbit. A REW can hide just as many if not more color faults as a Broken. I admit that REW’s have been around much longer and many breeders have worked hard to eliminate those color faults from them. So I do appeal to breeders of Brokens to be vigilant about it as well. It is vital to the success of the variety. There are only two varieties that I never breed onto my Broken line. Never, ever breed BEW into Brokens, as the Vienna gene will likely remove your nose marking, affect eye color, and cause unbalanced markings. I also avoid Himis, as a Broken Himi is neither showable, nor attractive. In one of my first Broken litters, I produced a Broken Blue Himi Marten. Talk about a lot of weird genetics in one rabbit! He had excellent type, but only had colored ears and a nose marking with a white line running right through the middle of it. I have bred my Broken shadeds to carry a REW gene instead of himi so I get fewer unshowables. I encourage anyone interested in breeding Brokens to take the plunge. They are beautiful, sell well for both breeding and as pets, and are a wonderful addition to our breed. I have no doubt they will be at the top of the AOV group once accepted. I’d like to close by thanking Jamie Green for all his hard work in getting the Brokens passed. I have every confidence that he’ll get the third presentation through as well. Soon everyone will be “seeing spots” at the Dwarf tables.
Broken Standard
The Broken Standard falls in line with and is verbatim to the standard for the Broken variety of Polish with the only change in allotment of points from 10 to the 15 per the Netherland Dwarf standard. Color: Points 15 Broken: Color is to indicate any recognized breed variety in conjunction with white. It is to have both ears colored, color around the eyes, and the nose. (No preference given for a nose butterfly over an evenly balanced nose marking.) The body pattern may be spotted, with individual colored spots or patches over the back, sides, and hips or a blanket pattern, starting at or near the neck and continuing over the back, sides and hips. Preference to be given to an evenly balanced pattern. Toenails should be white, but no fault or disqualification for colored toenail(s). Eyes: Eye color to correspond to the colored variety requirement. Faults: Unbalanced nose markings, scattered white hairs in the ears, unbalanced body markings, uneven color. Disqualifications from Competition: The complete absence of color on the nose, around either eye, or on either ear. Eye color other than called for. Excessive scattered white hair in colored section. (no disqualification for white spot(s) in colored section). Color less than 10% or more than 50% in judge’s opinion.
Mark Jacobs Tuscola, IL mdjrabbitry@yahoo.com “I’m Seeing Spots!”
hen I decided to get back into the rabbit hobby 6 years ago, I went to Twila Coffey’s house to look through her herd and pick out some stock to get me started. She asked me what colors I might be interested in, and I immediately asked her if she had any Brokens. I had been out of the hobby for several years, and was enormously disappointed when she informed me that Broken Dwarfs were not a recognized variety. She told me of a breeder that had a few, but warned me not to get too excited, as it was questionable if they would be recognized any time in the foreseeable future. I held off for several months, but it wasn’t long before I had Brokens in the nest box with dreams of showing them one day. Luckily, Jamie Green and a few others were way ahead of me, and now (fingers crossed) that goal may be realized much sooner than I had thought.
W
Why are Brokens so appealing? I’m not sure what the answer is for everyone, but I think I was influenced by my father. To this day he likes everything better if it’s spotted. On our farm we had spotted dogs, cats, cows, pigs, goats, ponies, ducks, geese, chickens, and of course my rabbits (Broken Siamese Satins to be exact). I think the contrast of color against the white just tends to catch the eye, and their eye circles and moustache-like nose marking are just too cute to resist. Maybe that’s why I wear dark rimmed glasses and a goatee. For those of you who are new to Broken genetics, the Broken or “English” (En) gene is dominant so it always expresses its presence. A Solid rabbit (enen) cannot “carry” a Broken gene no matter how many Brokens are on its pedigree (but it can carry modifiers for Broken pattern, which I’ll address later). Therefore, a Broken rabbit (Enen) must have at least one Broken parent. No if's, ands, or buts. When breeding Broken to Solid, you should get half and half in the nest box. When breeding Broken to Broken, you should average 50% Brokens, 25% Solids, and 25% “Charlies”. A Charlie is a Broken rabbit that has 2 copies of the Broken gene (EnEn). This causes the rabbit to be very lightly marked, usually less than 10%. The goal is to produce rabbits carrying a Broken gene and a Solid gene (Enen), which generally
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