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Fabric Design Rib and Cord

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					                                                                                                                 Fabric Design


                                                         Lecture 14
                                                  Rib & Cord Structures I
Bedford Cord



Bedford Cord shows vertical cords in the cloth. Two types of threads are used for this design, cutting threads and cord
threads. There are two cords in one repeat. Generally the cutting ends are plain, and two cutting ends are placed
between two cords, so in a repeat 4 cutting ends are used. The theory of production of cords is to provide weft floats at
the back of the cloth. A pick floats in one cord and interlaces in the other. It is usual to float alternate picks in the cords,
or to float two consecutive picks in one cord and two in the other. The weft floats are not visible at the face of the cloth,
because the cloth will contract due to tension. The cord ends are usually plain or twill based. In the following design
10 ends are used in a cord, and plain base is used. The ends will be (10 x 2) + 4 = 24 and picks are 2 x 2 = 4, because
plain is completed on 2 picks and two picks are floated.

$AAABFF $7FF555 $955BFF $7FF6AA                   - 24

     X    X    X   X    X   X    X   X    X   X    X         X   X       X           X       X       X
 X             X        X        X        X        X     X       X   X   X    X      X   X   X   X   X   X
     X    X    X   X    X   X    X   X    X   X    X         X       X        X          X       X       X
 X        X        X        X        X        X          X       X   X   X    X      X   X   X   X   X   X


With float on two picks

$BFEAAA $7FF555 $AAABFF $5557FF                     - 24

     X         X       X        X        X         X         X   X   X   X    X   X      X   X   X   X   X
 X        X        X        X        X        X          X       X   X   X    X   X      X   X   X   X   X
     X    X    X   X   X    X   X    X   X    X    X         X       X        X          X       X       X
 X        X    X   X   X    X   X    X   X    X          X       X       X        X          X       X


In case of twill base, it is easy to fill picks by going from left to right, e.g., 1 up 1 down 1 up in case of 2/1 twill.

$ADB7FC $7FEDB4 $B6D7FC $7FEED8 $9B77FC $7FEB6C                               - 22

     X    X    X   X   X    X   X    X    X   X          X       X   X        X   X          X   X
 X             X   X        X   X         X   X    X         X   X   X   X    X   X      X   X   X
     X    X    X   X   X    X   X    X    X   X          X   X   X       X    X          X   X
 X        X    X       X    X        X    X        X         X   X   X   X    X   X      X   X   X
     X    X    X   X   X    X   X    X    X   X          X   X       X   X        X      X       X
 X        X        X   X        X    X        X    X         X   X   X   X    X   X      X   X   X

The stuffer threads, also called wadding ends can be used to give cord ribs prominence as well as to increase the weight
and strength of the fabric. Two or more extra warp threads of a coarse count are sometimes introduced in each cord.
These extra threads never interlace with the weft, but lie perfectly straight between the ridges of their respective cords
and the floating wefts. So at the weft float they are kept up and at the interlacement of warp and weft they are kept
down. The cloth will contract due to tension and the stuffer threads will not be seen. Stuffer threads are shown by S
below
   $A92AFFF $7FFDA4A $9296FFF $7FFD4A5 - 28
     X X X X S X X X S X X X X                                     X        X           X        X            X        X
 X             X            X       X             X        X X          X X X S X X X S X X X X
     X X X X S X X X S X X X X                                     X X           X           X             X       X
 X        X       X             X             X       X        X        X X X S X X X S X X X X
                                                                                                            Fabric Design




  Color effects can also be produced by using picks of different colors for the two cords. It should be noted that any
pick is visible only in one cord, and in the other cord it is floating down. So if warping pattern is made in which ends of
one card of green color, and ends of one end are of red color, then by using alternate picks of green and red color which
interlace only with their respective colors, solid color strips can be produced.

    X   X   X    X   X   X    X   X   X    X   X        X   X        X       X        X       X        Red Pick
X           X        X        X       X        X   X        X   X    X   X   X   X    X   X   X    X   Green Pick
    X   X   X    X   X   X    X   X   X    X   X        X       X        X       X        X        X   Red Pick
X       X        X       X        X        X       X        X   X    X   X   X   X    X   X   X    X   Green Pick

				
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