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“It's You Eating and Me Cooking ”


									                                                                                                                                         Volume 33, No. 1

THE           NEWSPAPER                       OF            THE                    CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1 9 7 9

                      “It’s You Eating and Me Cooking”
                                                                 - Sam Gelman, Sous-chef , Momofuku Ko
                      La Papillote examines the redefinition of American service culture
                   By: LAURA GLENN                            recession hammered young professionals to afford a nice                 surrounded by food media for decades, see the glamour
                                                              night out.                                                              in the kitchen, and desire the closest experience to that
    Whether a side effect of the recession or a symptom            A small environment also opens new doors in the                    one can get in an hour.
of the larger zeitgeist, the democratization of fine          chef-patron relationship. While open kitchens are nothing                     In New York State, being both cook and server has
dining is in full swing. Increasingly one can find top-       new, restaurants like Momofuku Ko are putting the chef                  financial benefits, too. Legally, unless an employee
level cuisine at a restaurant that will not only refuse       literally within arm’s reach; think of the proximity of a               comes into contact with a customer, they cannot
reservations, but also hand you an affordable bill. As        sushi bar, but in a fine dining environment. Increasingly,              be tipped or share in the tips earned by the service
the rooted, brick-and-mortar fine restaurant standard                                                                                    staff. This often means that when a restaurant gets
is abandoned, inventive chefs are pouring their                                                                                           slammed, hourly paid cooks end up earning far
selves into renowned pop up restaurants, working                                                                                          below waiters. But when the cooks can just turn and
one location for a few weeks before shutting the                                                                                          deliver food themselves, they can greatly increase
doors and moving on to a new concept. Some chefs                                                                                          their income. That is, of course, if they are good
are leaving buildings all together, and bringing                                                                                          at interacting with the patrons, especially when
good eats to the masses via food truck. Together,                                                                                         stressed in a small and hectic kitchen environment
these chefs are rewriting what good food, service,                                                                                        where you may prefer working with tickets than
and fine dining mean to a post-recession culture.                                                                                         customers. As Frank Bruni said of Momofuku Ko,
     To many, the icon of the shift in fine dining is                                                                                     the cooks are “so close you can count their beads of
Momofuku. David Chang’s collection of New York                                                                                            sweat as they not only prepare and plate your food
restaurants continue to delight patrons and infuriate                                                                                     but also hand it to you.” It’s not for everyone, but
the influential with their complete lack of reservations                                                                                  counter service opens up a new range of possibilities
or, as with Momofuku Ko, a reservation system that                                                                                        for start up restaurants.
is unbiased towards reputation or wealth. Ko has                                                                                                 For those who want to leave behind the entire
shaken up the standard process with an online, first-                                                                                     idea of a restaurant as a location, food trucks offer
come-first-served reservation system. Má Pêche has                                                                                        new options. Rustic food trucks are a familiar sight
done away with reservations all together, except for                                                                                      in some areas, especially Los Angeles and on the
the grand Beef Seven Ways, a seven course meal                                                                                            streets of New York, but now professional chefs are
for $85 that can only be ordered for a party of 6 or                                                                                      taking fine dining to the streets.
more. Sam Sifton remarked that it was “probably                                                                                                  Food trucks are part of a new shift in food
worth ordering once or twice in your in life.” This                                                                                       trends, where the emphasis is on the means of
is in the same vein as other Momofuku restaurants,                                                                                        service, rather than the ingredients or style of food.
such as the Noodle Bar, where the only reservations                                                                                       In L.A., many say the trend began with Kogi BBQ,
are for the famous fried chicken.                                                                                                         a Korean barb-b-que and taco stand that drives
     All of Chang’s restaurants, perhaps except                                                                                           through the streets like our childhood ice cream
Má Pêche, are markedly tiny and devoid of too                                                                                             trucks. They have now expanded to three trucks,
many comforts beyond the food and service, a                                                                                              and the group is so beloved that people twitter
virtue embraced by a new generation of chef. In                                                                                           their locations to let other fans track their progress
an economic down turn, smaller locations offer                                                                                            through the city. In New York City, street eaters
lower start up cost and allow inventive chefs to try a                                                                                    can find trucks that brag about their locally sourced
                                                                                                       Photo courtsey by iStock photos
concept that may be a bit out there without going bust.                                                                               ingredients and fair trade chocolate.
The cash-strapped entrepreneurial chef can now save           chefs are not only designing the menu and cooking the                         Unfortunately, conflict has arisen between
money on seating and décor without alienating diners-if       food, but also serving it, hanging up coats, and taking traditional restaurants and food trucks. Many brick-
the food is good enough. The stripped down environments       reservations. As Michael Carlson, chef at Schwa and-mortar restaurants have complained that food
may even appeal to a certain type of dinner, and allow        in Chicago said in a New York Times interview, trucks park outside their buildings and steal hungry
                                                                            “Everyone who works here is a chef, and walkers. The issue is so pervasive in Los Angeles
                                                                            everyone is also a dishwasher.” Schwa that Councilwoman Janice Hahn has pushed for new
                                                                            features elaborate multicourse menus ordinances that would limit where trucks can be park
                                                                            that are imaginative and blur the lines and for how long. Councilman Tony Cardenas believes
                                                                            between sweet and savory.                                 that “This has long been a problem in our city” with
                                                                                 This trend towards eliminating service “way too many vendors on the street.”
                                                                            staff can bring dinners closer to a chef,                       Chefs today have many options for fine restaurant
                                                                            heightening the appreciation of those service that before many would never dream customers
                                                                            skillfully crafted plates. The sous-chef at would accept. It seems that the modern diner is
                                                                            Momofuku Ko, Sam Gelman, noted that willing to forgo an expected environment when the
                                                                            “We’re just cutting out the middleman. food is equally new. Most restaurants playing with
                                                                            It’s you eating and me cooking.” We are these new formats are not classic French fine dining,
                                                                            approaching the farthest extension away but are younger chefs pushing the boundaries and
                                                                            from the classic chef behind the kitchen challenging our concepts of fine dining. Through
                                                                            wall, where the grease and speed of the offering counter seating, lacking reservations, or
                                                                            kitchen was something to hide from diners hitting the streets, chefs have swung the door open for
                                                                            who wanted an illusion of sleek glamour new ways to embrace fine cuisine.
                                                                            on white tablecloths. Modern diners,
                                                Photo courtsey by iStock photos

                                                                                                                                FOOD & WINE                                                P 8-9
CULINARY CULTURE                                      P3
                Toque of The Town
                                                                                                                                                A Matter of Stemware
ON CAMPUS                                           P 4-5                                                                            “Stemware has been subject for debate for quite
         2010 Oktoberfest is Comming!                                                                                                  some time now. With over 100 different
   “The CIA Brew Club is gearing up for their 3rd                                                                                           glasses, there truly is a different
       Annual Oktoberfest Celebration held                                                                                                        glass for each wine..”
                                                              CENTER SPREAD                                             P 6-7
              on the CIA campus...”                           Do you feel the CIA should place greater em-                                              Brew of the Block

                      Faculty Spotlight
                                                              phasis on teaching Front of House operations?                                           Wine vs. Beer
                                                                        “ I think the school should offer a lot more                      He’s for the Beer & She’s for the Wine...
    Full Speed Ahead with Lynne Gigliotti                            secondary elective service and front of house
                                                                                    operation classes.”                         BACK PAGE                                                   P 12
                EDITORIAL                                                                                                                                                                              Culinary Culture
                                                                                                                                     LA PAPILLOTE    August 19 , 2010
  2                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 3

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979                                                                                          Toque of the Town                                              CIA GRADS CONNECT KIDS TO GOOD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        FOOD & TEACH HEALTHY HABITS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    THOMAS KELLER HOSTING SPECIAL
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        EVENT AT GREYSTONE
                                                                                                                                                              By: JEFF LEVINE, Media Relations                                                                                        If you have a big checkbook, but have never been
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Two CIA grads have been recognized for making a
                                                                                                                                                       LOTS OF TV FACE TIME FOR MICHAEL                             difference. Andrea Martin ’06 and Geoffrey Tracy ’98         able to get a reservation at a Thomas Keller restaurant,
                                                                                                                                                                    SYMON                                           are both leading efforts to fight childhood obesity and      now is the chance to spend a whole weekend (and four
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    change the way American kids eat.                            meals) in the Napa Valley with one of America’s most
                                               August 19, 2010                         FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK                                            CIA graduate Michael Symon ’90 is doing more
                                                                                                                                                     television these days than just Iron Chef America.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Chef Martin was recently featured on PBS NewsHour
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    thanks to her efforts to change the way American
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 renowned chefs, including a special event at The CIA’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Greystone campus.
PUBLISHER              The Student Affairs Division
                                                                        Most days we forget. Sometimes we have tunnel vision. And nine out of
                                                                                                                                                     The Cleveland native recently had one new program              kids eat. The segment can be seen at                 From September 3-5, Keller is hosting a special
                                                                                                                                                     premier on the Cooking Channel and has another                 newshour/bb/health/july-dec10/obesity_08-06.html             weekend to benefit the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF                     Brigid K. Ransome                ten times we lose sight of the reason we’re here, to serve others. It’s         show on the Food Network debuting this fall.
                                                                                                                                                         Cook Like an Iron Chef is the offering on the new
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Before Michelle Obama had the platform as First
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Lady to help lead the battle against childhood obesity,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 One of the highlights is a private culinary show with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Keller at the CIA’s Greystone campus. In addition to
LAYOUT EDITOR                              Shantel Mingo             a truth now that the bedrock of our profession has been eroded by the           Cooking Channel. On the program, Chef Symon shows              Chef Tracy was promoting healthy eating by kids in           the CIA part of the weekend, guests will tour the garden
                                                                                                                                                     how to make three dishes from a single ingredient.             Washington, DC.                                              at Keller’s French Laundry in Yountville, followed by
ADVERTISING MANAGER                                Sue Haug          glory of the game. Somewhere along the line the definition of our work,         Cook Like an Iron Chef airs Thursdays at 10 p.m.                   In addition to running five restaurants, Chef Geoff—     dinner on Friday and return there for the restaurant’s
                                                                     became so blunted, that we stopped recognizing the people who challenge
                                                                                                                                                         The other show is Food Feuds, which begins                 as he is known by the kids at Horace Mann Elementary         nine-course tasting menu on Saturday night. Lunch on
CONTRIBUTERS                                                                                                                                         airing on the Food Network in October. He mediates             School—has been teaching young people for years              Saturday will be prepared by his Bouchon restaurant,

Jeff Levine                                   Laura Glenn
                                                                     us and force us to create magic out of mayhem, the customers.                   rivalries between restaurants that claim to make the
                                                                                                                                                     best signature dishes of a city, such as Italian Beef
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    about where their food comes from and how to eat
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    balanced meals. He leads students into the school’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and will be followed by a trip a winery. The weekend
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 wraps up with Sunday brunch at Ad Hoc, another
                                                                                                                                                     sandwiches in Chicago or Detroit Coney Dogs.                   garden to pick fruits and vegetables, which are then         Keller restaurant in the Napa Valley.
Irena Chalmers                            Brighdin Nemec                                                                                                 Symon owns five restaurants in and around his              cooked in science class. Chef Geoff and his wife, NBC             You’ll have to pony up to enjoy this once-in-a-
Eric Hollandsworth                          Stephanie Hsu               I haven’t been in this business for too long, but I can tell that the        hometown, and one restaurant in Detroit.                       newswoman Norah O’Donnell, have three of their own           lifetime experience. The weekend costs $5,250 per
                                                                     role of a chef today is wrought with impasse. There is never a truly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    kids. Their book, Baby Love, is due for release this fall.   couple and is limited to 60 people. Details are at www.
Andrea Morris                                 Erin Swaton                                                                                                   ALUM IS HONORED BY ACF AS U.S.A.’s                                                                         
Bekah Roberts                              Meada Qureshi             amazing day in the kitchen because something could always be better. And                    CHEF OF THE YEAR™
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             PODCAST WITH DR. RYAN
Kelsey Barnard                                                       likewise, even the best plate is only as good as the person serving it. It          The best chef in the nation, according to the                  CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan talks about the               the college’s curriculum and conferences, and more
                                                                     really is an impossible profession.                                             American Culinary Federation (ACF), is Michael
                                                                                                                                                     Matarazzo ’03. Matarazzo was named the U.S.A’s Chef
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    advantages of a formal culinary education, leadership,       in-depth study of global cuisines and cultures. During
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    food trends, and more in his “Insight from the Inside”       the podcast, Dr. Ryan talks about initiatives in CIA
                                                                                                                                                     of the Year by the ACF on August 5. He is executive            podcast. During the 22-minute podcast, Dr. Ryan              classrooms and new innovations that will keep the
                                                                                                                                                     chef at the Bear Mountain Inn, Bear Mountain, NY.
                                                                        When my writers and I sat down to discuss this issue, the conversations
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    discusses how the restaurant and hospitality field is        college in the leadership position it has held since its
                                                                                                                                                         The 30-year-old Westchester County resident                more competitive, sophisticated, and complex than            founding 64 years ago. He also speaks about trends in
                                                                     brimmed with copious amounts of personal stories, tales of good meals
                                                                                                                                                     became a finalist for the national award after being           it was when he joined the industry in 1977 upon              food, the success of fellow alumni, and the future of
                                                                                                                                                     honored as the Northeast regional Chef of the Year             graduating from the CIA. In this environment,                the hospitality industry.
COMPACT                                                              that could have been great meals, if their waitperson was more responsive,      earlier this year. He then won a cook-off against his fellow
                                                                                                                                                     regional winners at the ACF’s National Convention in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    education and leadership go hand-in-hand.                        “Insight from the Inside” has featured CIA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        As president of the CIA since 2001, Dr. Ryan has         graduates Grant Achatz, Nate Appleman, John
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute                or simply did what was expected. But then I thought, what is expected           Anaheim, CA. The highest honor bestowed by ACF                 been instrumental in generating the sustained growth,        Besh, Anne Burrell, Scott Conant, Cat Cora, Dan
                                                                                                                                                     each year is reserved for a chef who demonstrates the
                                                                     of a waiter? Is it just knowledge of the menu, placing requests and
of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the                                                                                                                                                               innovation, and quality improvements that have               Coudreaut, Steve Ells, Duff Goldman, Johnny Iuzzini,
                                                                                                                                                     highest standard of culinary skills, advances the cuisine      shaped the college. A leader in the American Cuisine         Sara Moulton, Charlie Palmer, Michael Ruhlman
mission, history and values of the college. Our pri-
                                                                     running food? It definitely has to be more, just as the expectation of
                                                                                                                                                     of America, and gives back to the profession through           movement, Dr. Ryan helped develop the American               (honorary), Michael Symon, and Top Chef winners
mary purpose is to report the news of the institution                                                                                                the development of students and apprentices.                   Bounty Restaurant while a faculty member in 1982.            Ilan Hall and Hung Huynh. To hear the interview
to the students and other members of the campus
community. We examine contemporary issues of the
                                                                     a cook and chef is more than just conjuring and cooking (both food                  After graduating from the CIA, Matarazzo joined
                                                                                                                                                     in the apprenticeship program at The Greenbrier in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    He has championed support of local agriculture, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    integration of nutrition and healthy eating practices in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 with Tim Ryan or receive future podcasts, visit www.
food service and hospitality industries to inform,                   and ideas). Our roles are always evolving to reflect the changes in our         White Sulphur Springs, WV. Before coming to the
                                                                                                                                                     Bear Mountain Inn, he was executive sous chef at the
challenge and develop the minds of students as they                  clientele.                                                                      Westchester Country Club in Rye. He has competed
aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession.                                                                                               in numerous culinary competitions, nationally and
We reflect the diverse views of the student body and                                                                                                 internationally.
provide a forum for civil discussion.                                  The reporting in this issue eclipsed my once steadfast view of what               With the national title in hand, Chef Matarazzo will
                                                                                                                                                     now represent his country at the World Association of
     Above all else, in our reporting and features, we
strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from dis-             front of the house service means and what it should look like. Laura            Chefs Societies’ Global Chefs Challenge semifinals. A
                                                                                                                                                     win there and he will represent all of the Americas at
tortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative                   Glenn writes of restaurants that handed many of their waitpersons their         the Global Chefs Challenge in South Korea in 2012.
                                                                     walking papers and in doing so, opted to make dinning an intimate experience
light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make
a real effort to obtain and print a response from that                                                                                                          YOUR CHANCE TO WIN...
subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.                   of a difference sort of dyad; one between chef and patron. And on the                 All You Need is a Recipe and a Dream
  Articles and features are expected to be independent
                                                                     other hand, Kelsey Barnard recalls of a warm restaurant experience in               The 2010 Discover Duck Chef Recipe Contest.
assessments on a topic by an individual author. The                                                                                                  Maple Leaf Farms is looking for innovative, easy recipes
views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They                Italy where the service was so genuine and so uncharacteristically rich,        using duck. Both professionals and students can enter
                                                                     that it almost rivaled the wonder of the meal. Both writers would agree,
do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of                                                                                                this contest with a grand prize of $5,000. Additional
                                                                                                                                                     prizes of $3,000 and $1,500 will be awarded for second
La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views
or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or                 when it comes to service there exist a very irreconcilable element.             and third place. Each entrant can submit up to three
                                                                                                                                                     original and creative recipes. Entries will be judged
any entity of, or affiliated with the college.                                                                                                       based on simplicity, originality, flavor, and accuracy
                                                                                                                                                     of recipe. For more details, visit www.mapleleaffarms.
EDITORIAL POLICY                                                        As individuals in a field whose core is to please, we are expected to        com/chefcontest/.
                                                                     ratify the choices made by our customers. And if that choice is to
                                                                                                                                                         Deadline for entries is September 10, 2010. Details
  La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students,                                                                                           for all contest information and entry forms may be
chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based      eat a meal from under a silver plate cover or one that’s been wrapped in        found outside the Special Events Office in Roth Hall,
                                                                                                                                                     Room 451.
on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to
our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout,   parchment and tucked in a plastic bag, well then, so be it. What we have
and verifiability.                                                   to remember that in each case, however lavish or lackluster, there needs
Please direct all submissions to:                                    to be greater upward mobility in the way we serve others. It may be
Brigid Ransome, Editor-In-Chief
                                                                     revisiting the polite traits of a by-gone era and allowing that to be the new                   The Roman Catholic
                                                                                                                                                                 Chapel of Our lady of the Way
                                                                     face of tableside manner, even if there are no tables involved.

                                                                                                                                                                    Madonna della strada
   Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and
they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting
letters, the editors try to present a balance of views.
We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility                  Fare well, friends                                                                            HOLY MASS
and accuracy, and will send you the edited version                                                                                                           Sundays 1:00PM, Wednesdays Noon
before publication. If your letter is selected, we will
try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s
authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify
                                                                           Brigid                                                                     (This Mass is celebrated in the extraordinary form)
                                                                                                                                                                       Holy Days Noon
                                                                                                                                                             The Reverend Marc K. Oliver, Chaplain
your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify                                                                                                        Saint Peter’s Rectory, Kingston
facts or sources.Letters to the Editor may be sent to                                                                                                         845-331-0436 with “Letter to the Editor -                                                                                                        The Chapel is located just inside the South Gate.
For Publication” in the subject line. Please include
your phone number.
           On Campus
                                                                                                                                                              LA PAPILLOTE                August 19, 2010                                                                                                                                                          ON CAMPUS
4                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Chef Bryan Voltaggio Visits The CIA
                                                                                                                                                                                                           BY: ERIN SEATON                                  he said as he began the demonstration to a standing                   mozzarella spheres, and liquid nitrogen to make
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            room only crowd at Danny Kaye Theater.                                gazpacho “DippinDots.” Yet, while using these modern
                                                                                                                                                                                              On Tuesday, August 17th, The Gourmet Society had                  Chef Bryan only demonstrated one dish, a caprese                  techniques, Voltaggio emphasized that technique
                                                                                                                                                                                          the distinct honor of being able to host CIA Alumni               salad, but he was able to demonstrate different                       should never overshadow the food itself noting that
     Irena Chalmers’ Food Jobs                            are things we don’t know we don’t know.”                       2010 Oktoberfest is Comming!                                     and Top Chef Season 6 runner up Bryan Voltaggio. “I               techniques with that one dish proving there is no                     close to 85% of the products that he uses comes
                                                               Whether you are interested in science or                                                                                   haven’t stepped foot on this campus since I graduated             one way to make a caprese salad. He used Xantham                      from local farms within 100 miles of his restaurant in
                                                                                                                                 By: ERIC HOLLANDSWORTH                                   back in ’99, but I always felt that I should come back
    By: IRENA CHALMERS, Adjunct Professor                 supermarkets, in engineering or accounting, human
                                                                                                                                                                                          after I had reached a level of success in my career,”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Gum to make a basil pudding, an algin bath to make                    Frederick, VA, Volt.
                                                          relations or writing, in traveling or staying at home,                                                                                                                                                                                                                      After graduating from the CIA in 1999, Chef
          Career Search                                   there is a job in the food field for you. Better yet,
                                                          you can dream up something that had never been
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Bryan went on to work for Charlie Palmer for nine
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  years starting at Aureole where he worked his way to
    It is not an easy task to decide what to do next.     done before and make it happen. After all, the food                                                                                                                                                                                                                     being Sous Chef. Several years later, he was named
It is a journey filled with uncertainty and doubt.        world involves history and geography, science and                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Executive Chef for Charlie Palmer’s new restaurant in
Fortunately, the food industry is full of jobs if you     technology, economics and finance, art and design,                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Washington DC, Steak. In 2008, Voltaggio was able to
take the time to look around.                             marketing and publicity and literally dozens of other                                                                                                                                                                                                                   fulfill his own dream and opened his own restaurant,
    You could think about becoming a private chef         disciplines. Your task is to decide which path to                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Volt, which was nominated for the James Beard Award
for a movie star, a sports hero or a television anchor.   take.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   for Best New Restaurant the following year. He was
A private chef is not the same                                                        I came across a lovely quote                                                                                                                                                                                                                also a contestant on the 6th season of Top Chef where
thing as a personal chef. A                                                       from Christopher Robin to                                                                                                                                                                                                                       he was runner up to his own brother.
chef can also earn $80,000                                                        Winnie the Pooh. He said,                                                                                                                                                                                                                           When asked what it was that he took away most
per year--tax free--working                                                       “Promise me you’ll always                                                                                                                                                                                                                       from his time at the CIA his response was, “The level
on a luxury yacht, cruising                                                       remember you are braver than                                                                                                                                                                                                                    of professionalism. I have worked with many chefs and
the Greek Islands. The perks                                                      you believe and stronger than                                                                                                                                                                                                                   externs from many other culinary institutes and you
here are: there is no rent                                                        you seem, and smarter than you                                                                                                                                                                                                                  can always tell which ones were from the CIA because
to pay, no car payments to                                                        think.”                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         there is a greater level of respect for our profession
make and there are plenty                                                             And do you remember Dr.                                                                                                                                                                                                                     that is conveyed by CIA alumni and students then
of people to sleep with every                                                     Benjamin Spock,who comforted                                                                                                                                                                                                                    from anyone else.”
night.                                                                            generations of anxious mothers                                                                                                                                                                          Photo courtsey of The Gourmet Society
    Recipe         developers                                                                                              The CIA Brew Club is gearing up for their 3rd
                                                                                  by saying, “You know more            Annual Oktoberfest Celebration held on the CIA
working for NASA come
up with ideas for dinner for
                                                                                  than you think you do.”
                                                                                      You can start your journey to
                                                                                                                       campus. The past years have been huge successes and
                                                                                                                       the event is doubling in size each year. As the acting
                                                                                                                                                                                                FACULTY SPOTLIGHT                                           Restaurant Convention in Washington D.C., Carla
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Hall was sitting at the table that was casting people for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  which floods with 6 varieties of heirloom tomatoes,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  eggplant, zucchini, and peppers. She loves to garden,
astronauts. They can also
find employment with food
                                                                                  find a new career by imagining
                                                                                  you are Santa Claus. Make a
                                                                                                                       president of the Brew Club, I created the Oktoberfest                         Full Speed Ahead                                       the new season of Top Chef. “Everyone was avoiding
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            that table,” Chef mentions. Eventually, her roommate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  sail, fly fish, hike and as a matter of fact she went sky
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  diving last week. As for her future plans, Chef Gigliotti
                                                                                                                       celebration in the fall of 2008 to showcase the Brew
companies and restaurant
chains and supermarkets.
                                                                                  list of all your qualifications.     Club’s fall beer line-up. Brew Club decided to                               with Lynne Gigliotti                                    dragged to the casting table, and Chef Gigliotti agreed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            to do a video interview later that night. “I only have one
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  wants to own another restaurant. She enjoys being an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  entrepreneur and loves to see a restaurant evolve from
                                                                                  What have you done so far?           collaborate with seven additional clubs to help create
Recipe testers check the accuracy of recipes for          Where have you been. What have you learned? Who                                                                                 “I was not a career changer but a career accelerator”             life and not everyone gets the opportunity to do this,                the décor to the menu to the interior. “I have a clear
magazines, cookbook authors and food processors.                                                                       a larger event with loads of German inspired food                                                                                    so I decided to go with it,” she stated. She completed                vision of what I want to do,” she says.
                                                          do you know? (The last thing on this list may be the         and beverages. During this first event the Brew Club                              BY: MAEDA QURESHI
Recipe developers come up with the idea that              most important.)                                                                                                                                                                                  the video interview and the 50 page application, and                      Personally, I’m glad that I did this interview
becomes a finished dish or a new product.                                                                              made a mistake and underestimated the appreciation                     For the first time since being in culinary school,                                                                                  with Chef Gigliotti. Not only did I learn about her
                                                               Fill several sacks with all this information and pile                                                                      I was eagerly awaiting the new season of Top Chef.                didn’t really think that her application was going
    A food lover with a vibrant palate and the ability    them on the sled. Rewrite your resume. Compose                                                                                                                                                    anywhere. However, after two months she got a call                    phenomenal journey but I also learned about life and
to write well may find happiness as a restaurant critic                                                                                                                                   After going through the experience of cooking for                                                                                       the fact that we only have one chance to be here in
                                                          a cover letter. Have a new photograph taken. Put                                                                                service, I am more in a position to identify all of               while at a friend’s house that she was selected as semi
or restaurant biographer.                                 on your Santa’s suit frame of mind. Climb into the                                                                                                                                                finalists for the show. Again, she had doubts that she                this world. Each person can get a lot further if they just
    Perhaps, you could consider a career as: a literary                                                                                                                                   the adventures of Top Chef. Season 7 of Top Chef                                                                                        think and believe that whatever they want can happen,
                                                          driver’s seat and take the reins of the reindeer. They                                                                          takes place in Washington D.C. However there is                   would become a one of the final people chosen to
agent, a cheese shop owner, a food and travel writer,     will run neck and neck with one animal getting                                                                                                                                                    be on the show. However, when she did get the call                    that is, if they truly want it to.
an artisanal bread baker, a wedding cake designer,                                                                                                                                        one contestant in this season that has shown her
                                                          his nose ahead with a surge of hope, and the other                                                                              CIA patriotism and pride. Her name is Chef Lynne                  that she was selected she was totally shocked because
a food photographer, a bed and breakfast owner, a         falling a little behind as his stomach churns with fear.                                                                                                                                          she never thought this would have gone so far. As for
food entrepreneur, investor or a teacher. There are                                                                                                                                       Gigliotti and she currently teaches Garde Manger
                                                          Whichever gains the ascendancy will determine the                                                                               here at CIA Hyde Park. Chef Gigliotti was born and                the experience, “ it’s intense” she points out. On her
more jobs opportunities to explore than you may           road you take.                                                                                                                                                                                    free time she likes take care of her vegetable garden
have imagined.                                                                                                                                                                            raised in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and like most of
                                                               As Suze Ormand tells us: “You own the power to
    As former Secretary of Defense, Donald                control your own destiny.”
Rumsfeld, famously observed: “There are known                  Now I have one more piece of advice. “Illegitimi
knowns: These are things we know we know. There           non carborundum,” which freely translated means,                                                 Photo By: Eric Hollandsworth
are known unknowns: These are things we know we           “Don’t let the bastards get you down.”
don’t know. There are unknown unknowns: These
                                                                                                                       for quality homebrews here on campus and only
                                                                                                                       produced thirty-five gallons of beer which sold-out
                                                                                                                       within the first two hours of the festival. During ast
                                                                                                                       year’s event the Brew Club took extra precautions and
                                                                                                                       brewed over fifty-five gallons of beer for the festival.
                                                                                                                       This was a great forecast but still we did not realize
                                                                                                                       the thirst that this campus has for high-quality beer
                                                                                                                       and sold around fifty gallons of delicious handcrafted
                                                                                                                       beers. Last year was also a great success with an
                                                                                                                       attendance of over 300 hundred students and fourteen
                                                                                                                       clubs actively participating in this fall festival.
                                                                                                                           This year the Brew Club is not taking any chances
                                                                                                                       and brewing over sixty gallons of beer, which is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Photo By: Maeda Quershi

                                                                                                                                                                                          us, could vividly recall her first food memory; “I burnt
                                                                                                                                                                                          brownies using the Easy Bake Oven.” However, as her
                                                                                                                                                                                          career has shown, she quickly recovered from that. At
                                                                                                                                                                                          17, she started working at The Restaurant School in
                                                                                                                                                                                          Pennsylvania as a line cook during the weekends. She
                                                                                                                                                                                          proved to the Chef of The Restaurant School that she
                                                                                                                                                                                          was persistent, hard-working and professional. Her
                                                                                                                                                                                          love of food led her to graduate from The Restaurant
                                                                                                                                                                                          School. Her first full time job was as a sous chef at the
                                                                                                                                                                                          20th Street Café which focused on American Cuisine.
                                                                                                                                                                                          Later, she was the Executive Chef of a catering
                                                                                                                                                                                          company called Carolinas Catering for ten years. She
                                                                                                                       equivalent to over twenty-six cases of beer being                  owned a restaurant called Grappa for 5 years which
                                                                                                                       carefully handcrafted. This year we are looking at                 focused on Mediterranean food which had a strong
                                                                                                                       almost sixteen CIA clubs to participate in preparing               emphasis on French and Italian cooking techniques.
                                                                                                                       their take on Oktoberfest. Also this year, the campus              When asked how she came to The CIA, she said that
                                                                                                                       favorite Too Many Cooks will be supplying the event                she took a baking and pastry class and applied to go
                                                                                                                       with their classic rock and blues music to complete the            to school here. She sold everything she to come here.
                                                                                                                       afternoon. Who can forget the classic hog roast; this              “I was not a career changer but a career accelerator,”
                                                                                                                       year’s hog will be the largest yet at well over 200 lbs.           she mentions. “I have chosen to ignore the fact it’s a
                                                                                                                       It will be a tasty treat for those in attendance. Along            boy’s club,” she says about being one of the few girls
                                                                                                                       with tradition, the Baker’s Cup competition will be                to join the profession during the 1970’s.
                                                                                                                       held during the festival, so gather your teammates and                 The best part that she enjoys about teaching at
                                                                                                                       get ready for some baking and pastry competition.                  The CIA is when the students “ooh and ahh” when
                                                                                                                           The brewing has official commenced and                         she teaches. The advice she loves to impart is to” get
                                                                                                                       Oktoberfest is only six weeks away and will be held                as much out of the school as you can”. For example,
                                                                                                                       on Saturday October 2, 2010 from 1-5pm on the                      joining clubs, sport teams, attending demos, and
                                                                                                                       lawn behind Rosenthal Hall. This year’s events                     enjoying the feel of being here. She also advises
                                                                                                                       and festivities are sure to be a success, so mark your             students to get to know their instructors. “They are
                                                                                                                       calendars. Please keep your eyes and ears open for                 approachable and don’t want to make you feel bad,”
                                                                                                                       further information regarding this event.                          she says. The most exciting part of the interview for
                                                                                                                           Cheers!                                                        me was when she mentioned the hilarious journey
                                                                                                                                                                                          of how she ended up on Top Chef. At a Women’
         CENTER SPREAD                                                                                                                                             LA PAPILLOTE           August 19, 2010
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                                                                                    CENTER SPREAD
                                 Service on the Rise
                                       New growth in food service employment and its impact on the CIA community                                                                              Do you think the CIA should place greater emphasis on
                BY: STEPHANIE HSU
    “Would you like fries with that?” The infamous
                                                             establishments. With the increase in popularity of
                                                             places offering low price advantages and fast service,
                                                             the waters are muddied when it comes to defining
                                                                                                                           as well as managerial positions in all roles of the food
                                                                                                                           service sector. The Occupational Outlook Handbook
                                                                                                                           proposes that although some employers still hire
                                                                                                                                                                                                       teaching Front of House operations?
phrase, mostly associated with the young and usually         service in an age driven by consumer convenience.             based on restaurant-related experience, many more
warbled from pubescent vocals cords, is now coming               Heather Kolakowski ‘02 C.H.E. offers her                  prefer hiring managers with higher degrees at upscale                  “It’s a good thing to know,
out of the mouths of many from all demographic               thoughts on the new attention given to food service.          restaurants, chains, or corporations. In addition
ranges. Yet not all service comes from a drive-thru          As Lecturing Instructor in Table Service at American          to table service in fine dining establishments, new
                                                                                                                                                                                              especially if you’re going to a
window nor are all orders thrown in a paper bag. From        Bounty, Mrs. Kolakowski is familiar with the service          opportunities abound for managers in other sectors of            managerial position. I think the
casual dining to non-traditional food establishments,        trends and is able to see firsthand how this relates          the food industry. With a record number of grocery
the service side of the hospitality industry is growing      to her students. “While mid-scale and casual/quick            stores and casual restaurants cropping up, good service       school does a good job of teaching
on numerous fronts. The 2010-11 edition of the               service restaurants are gaining in popularity, I think the    is an intangible product that allows an establishment
Occupational Outlook Handbook (OOH) states that              demand for fine dining will always be around. There           to add value and differentiate itself from competitors.
                                                                                                                                                                                        Front of the House but maybe more
in the next eight years, food service and related work       are people who want this specific type of experience.         As our curriculum factors in a substantial service           electives should be offered, for the
will comprise some of the largest percentages of newly       However, as Americans embrace technology more                 component, CIA graduates will be at the forefront of
created jobs in the United States. With this boon of         readily, they will also demand these upgrades in the          this new trend.                                                 students who want to know more
employment on the service side of the hospitality field,     dining room,” Kolakowski explains. She emphasizes
CIA students can expect exciting new possibilities           that the challenge remains to educate students to meet           Opportunities for Service Education
                                                                                                                                                                                                     about it.” - Robert Kilcullen
upon graduation.                                             these new and increasingly high expectations for good
                                                             service.                                                          Along with the foundational courses offered
   New Growth in Food & Beverage Service                         With the landscape of the restaurant industry             through the CIA curriculum, students have many ways
                                                             changing at a rapid pace, Kolakowski recognizes an            to hone their service skills and enhance their hospitality
    From 2008 – 2018, the U.S. Bureau of Labor               increase in the number of students at the Institute           education. On campus, the Zagat Lecture Series on
Statistics estimates a 10% growth in F&B service,            interested in service rather than BOH positions. “In          Service offers four talks a year from heavyweights
which translates to roughly 761,000 new positions.           my experience, I’ve come across a number of students          such as Danny Meyer of the Union Square Hospitality
This bodes well for those seeking service positions          intent on becoming chefs who have gotten halfway              Group. Joining the student organization Chaîne des
in the next decade; the BLS projects that there will         through the curriculum and were surprised to find             Rôtisseurs will aid in sharpening hospitality skills and
be 8,413,100 employees in food and beverage service          out that not only were they good at table service, but        gastronomic knowledge. The Federation of Dining
and related work in 2018. Why the apparent increase          they enjoyed it as well,” Kolakowski muses, “A goal of        Room Professionals (FDRP) and the International                                                     “I think that the school should
in hospitality service in this day and age? The most         mine is to open the eyes of students to the possibility       Sommelier Guild (ISG) both offer levels of certification
obvious answer is that hard economic times in past           of experiencing table service during their time at            for hospitality professionals wanting to enhance their                                              offer a lot more secondary
years have driven more Americans into accepting              the CIA. What many people come to realize is that             credentials.                                                                                        elective service and front of
food industry service positions. Yet the troubled            front-of-house operations are crucial ways in which               With favorable statistics indicating the rise of food                                                                              “I feel that the Baking and Pastry Arts
economy is not the only reason for the upsurge; the          customers communicate with the restaurant. We’re              service positions in the coming years, the future looks                                             the house operation classes,       students (like myself) get the short end of
rise of fast-casual and non-traditional dining also plays    the ‘face of the chef’, in other words.”                      bright for prospective jobseekers. The increase of fast-
an important role. While table service at fine dining                                                                      casual and other non-restaurant establishments offers                                               so students could sign up for      the stick in terms of our service education.
institutions still thrive, the need for counter attendants      Getting a Leg Up in a Competitive Industry                 exciting possibilities for hospitality service. Table                                               them, if they want to learn
and non-restaurant servers in hospitals, residential                                                                       service at fine dining restaurants is changing, and with                                                                               Where Front of the House is concerned we
care facilities and catering operations will increase as         As we know all too well in this industry, turnover        this shift comes heavy competition for jobs. However,                                               more about it. I don’t really      never get to do any fine dinning, whereas
the baby boomer generation ages.                             is high in food service. While the result is more             equipped with the knowledge imbued by the CIA,
    While a slowdown in consumer spending exists, the        employment opportunities for aspiring graduates,              recent graduates and alumni should rest assured they                                                think more Front of the House      the Culinary students do. I feel because
desire to eat out continues. Casual service restaurants      keen competition exists for those remaining fine              are well prepared to take on any service position the                                               classes should be offered
and upscale grocery stores are steadily gaining in           dining service positions with higher wages and tips.          industry has to offer.                                                                                                                 of that, they may have more options come
popularity. These places all require service, although       CIA students have an edge when applying for these                                                                                                                 in the core curriculum, just       graduation because they would have
the tasks are different from those in fine dining
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               more electives.”                   received a more well rounded education.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              - Matt Mosses                       - Kara Koehmstedt

         The Other Side of Service: The K-16 Side            cornstarch, or the three days I had to clean out the          do matter. To me, as an aspiring chef, with a lot of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “I don’t mind the service
               BY: BEKAH ROBERTS                             fryers for the first time by myself (I somehow avoided        hope that people return because they like my food,                                                                       education, I think it’s
    With only one more block until I leave for extern,       cleaning the fryers up until this point in my culinary        and liked my service, those “some people” matter.                                                                    needed to be a good chef.
it has been a whirlwind of a first “year” here at The        career), when I realized that K16 is it. I half expected my       After surviving those seven services and late nights
Culinary. Up until seven days ago, I still felt like I       class to crash and burn, but the other half of me wished      of writing game plans, attending group meetings, and                                                                As a chef, it’s vital to know
was a B-blocker. During the dreaded seven days of            we would have had a seamless week. Unfortunately,             fighting sleep deprivation, I’ve had a chance to taste
K16 lunch service and upon completing the week, for          there is nothing seamless about K16 lunch service. In         and experience K16 lunch myself. Unlike many chefs                                                                    how to handle problems
the first time I felt like I was a part of something at      a kitchen where a new group of idiots is cooking lunch        on campus here at The Culinary, Chef McCue has                                                                              up front when they
the C.I.A, and not just one of “the many” who walk           for the majority of the student body every seven days,        no rules regarding pleasing his clientele. He doesn’t
the halls and coast their way through the program.           the worst is bound to hit the fan. While putting up           hesitate in making the customer happy. If I want a side                                                                 happen. These classes
As culinary students, all wearing the same whites,           ten plates in the window, Karen’s voice never stopping        of fries with my salad or a piece of Chicken Fines Herbs
tasting and cooking the same food, and experiencing          calling out “Burger”, I look around me and see the food       with my burger, I can probably get it upon request.                                                                     really prepare us to be
the same chefs, I believe we forget that we are in fact      waste bin steadily growing, the dish pit in an absolute       After all, what is expected upon entering the real world                                                                           better chefs.”
individuals. But that’s kind of the point, right? Leaving    state of pandemonium—but there is a sense of calm in          of dressing on the side, gluten-free, lactose intolerant,
our personality issues, and opinions by the wayside, all     the fact that every group goes through this.                  and burger, no bun? Customers have allergies, needs,                                                                                  - Kevin Crouch
for the greater good—the hospitality industry? Because           What’s the point? When feeding 400 people on              wants, preferences, and we as culinarians and aspiring
that’s what we’re here for- to cook good food, for           time is the biggest of my worries, in a school where          chefs should want to accommodate those that choose
people who will pay for it.                                  time and temperature is really the only sure thing, then      to come to my restaurant. Yes, it’s about making
    There came a point during the seven week class,          dammit, we better open up on time. In an industry             the food taste good. But it’s also about wanting the
probably in between having to write two ten-page,            where perfection is expected, there’s no wonder why           customer to come back a second time around for that            “Yes! I do think we could be more educated on
single-spaced papers for Chef McCue, or frying off           ten-page papers are assigned for opening up a ten             good tasting food.                                             Front of the House operations. It’s part of the
forty pounds of chicken drenched in egg whites and           minutes late. To some people, those few minutes truly
                                                                                                                                                                                          entire culinary experience..” - Maggie Gowin
               FOOd & Wine
                                                                                                                                                                    LA PAPILLOTE              August 19, 2010                                                                                                                                                        FOOD & WINE
 8                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               9
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              She’s for theanWine...alcohol levels across the body
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         and array of varying
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       a superior beverage to slowly be savored sip after sip.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           While I do admit that the beer industry has recently
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       done a good job of promoting beer and food pairings,
                                                                                                                                                                                                             By: BRIGHDIN NEMEC                             spectrum. In order for beer to even attempt to achieve                     wine is ultimately the better partner. Wine and food
                                                                                                                                                                                                  I took a hiatus from beer drinking after gaining          this fantastic balance of texture and taste, the beverage                  have the ability to enhance each other’s flavor creating
                                                                                                                                                                                              the traditional freshman fifteen throughout my first          requires at least four ingredients that independently are                  a better overall dining experience. There is no food
                                                                                                                                                                                              year of attending a liberal arts college. I would attend      inferior to the grape. Wine in general tends to pack                       item that cannot be improved with the addition of a
                                                                                                                                                                                              the routine fraternity parties in which natural light,        a punch when compared to its counterpart beer. As                          properly paired wine. As Marni points out, this is the
                                                                                                                                                                                              “natty,” would always be served in can or keg version.        Marni says, let’s face it, our community does not gulp                     reason why the best restaurants have employed master
                                                                                                                                                                                              The countless nights of feeling disgusting cheap and          down pitchers of wine as they do beer. Instead, wine is                    sommeliers instead of beer experts.
                                                                                                                                                                                              flavorless beer sit in my stomach led me to take a strike                                                                                        There are countless reasons why I prefer
                                                                                                                                                                                              from beer drinking altogether. A newly found passion
                                                                                                                                                                                              and taste for wine quickly filled that beer drinking void.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     BREW OF THE BLOCK                                                     drinking wine to beer but that last that I will discuss
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           covers a personal rationale. Since my prior college
                                                                                                                                                                                              After graduating, I started working for a reputable
                                                                                                                                                                                              company that provided their employees with an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Wine vs. Beer                                                  experience, I will always support wine over beer due
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           to the simple fact that the term “wine gut” does not
                                                                                                                                                                                              extensive wine education. Throughout this period in                                                                                          exist. Historically, our culture has created this term
                                                                                                                                                                                              which I was no longer a financially struggling student,                                                                                      “beer gut” to refer to an excessive weight gain in the
                                                                                                                                                                                              I had the monetary flexibility to indulge in the wines                                                                                       stomach region due to an excessive consumption
                                                                                                                                                                                              that I began learning about. To this day I continue to                                                                                       of beer. Wine on the other hand does not have
                                                                                                                                                                                              appreciate and enjoy nice wines when my once again                                                                                           this association and escapes this dismal stigma, still
                                                                                                                                                                                              college budget allows.                                                                                                                       representing itself as the sophisticated beverage of
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Throughout the first few weeks of attending the CIA,                                                                                     the two.
                                                                                                                                                                                              the school’s Brew Club President, Eric Hollandsworth                                                                                             Even though historians have discovered that
                                                                                                                                                                                              quickly opposed my bias and preference for wine over                                                                                         beer making has pre-dated wine making, cultures
                                                                                                                                                                                              beer. This commenced a great debate between the                                                                                              that were exposed to both valued wine over beer.
                                                                                                                                                                                              two of us. We started to argue which was better, wine                                                                                        To this day there are more efforts and money
                                                                                                                                                                                              or beer? After completing some personal research to                                                                                          associated with the wine import/export market than
                                                                                                                                                                                              strengthen our arguments, Eric had discovered that                                                                                           the beer industry. Even though at the end of the
                                                                                                                                                                                              two experts already published a book outlining the                                                                                           day I would rather have a glass of wine than beer, I
                                                                                                                                                                                              advantages of drinking wine over beer and vice versa.                                                                                        have recently rediscovered a certain respect for the
                                                                                                                                                                                              Sam Calagione, the founder and owner of Dogfish                                                                                              beer market. I have slowly been trying new beers
                                                                                                                                                                                              Head Brewery, and Marni Old, a seasoned sommelier,                                                                                           and every once and a while I find one that exhibits
                                                                                                                                                                                              co-wrote He Said Beer She Said Wine in attempts                                                                                              extraordinary flavor. On a hot summer’s day I may
                                                                                                                                                                                              to coax their readers of their perspective drinking                                                                                          even crave a nice cold glass of Delirium Tremens
                                                                                                                                                                                              preferences.                                                                                                                                 instead of Sancerre. However, those cravings are
                                                                                                                                                                                                  I agree with Marni that wine is finer for the following                                                                                  few and far between and as long as women are from
                                                                                                                                                                                              reasons. First off, a well made wine can be the product                                                                                      Mars I will always believe that wine is the superior
                                                                                                                                                                                              one ingredient, grapes. This simplistic food has the                                                                                         beverage.
                                                                                                                                                                                              ability to offer complex flavors, invigorating acidity,                              Photo courtsey of www.

                                                                                   a spoon a fork
                                                                                   wine... and a cork                                                                                                                            He’s for the Beer...
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            superior product.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Calagione had written, “…when it comes down to it,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       drinking beer, and the culture that surrounds it, is more
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       primal that sipping wine.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                         By: ERIC HOLLANDSWORTH                                  After beginning my career at the Culinary Institute                        Lower cost is another reason why I advocate for
                                                                                                                                                                     Photo by Laura Mishkin
                                                                                                                                                                                                  As long as I can remember beer has always been            I had found out that there was a brew club here on                         wine over beer. You can go into just about any store
                 UNCORKED                                       ridiculous as doubting pork’s affinity for salt and smoke.
                                                                While I’m certainly not about to claim that bacon is not
                                                                                                                             to be the least complex. In reality the Champagne
                                                                                                                             smelled the least compelling in the Burgundy glass,
                                                                                                                                                                                              my beverage of choice when it comes to any scenario.
                                                                                                                                                                                              I remember my first beer epiphany like it was yesterday.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            campus. I attended a meeting one evening and left
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the meeting as the president of the club. From there
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       and grab a couple of well-crafted six-packs, hand the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       cashier a twenty and still receive change. Unlike wine
                                                                a stroke of genius, I do want to explore the potential of    with only hints of yeast and ambiguous fruits. The                                                                                                                                                        which averaged around twice the cost of beer.
      A Matter of Stemware                                      alternative stemware to the flute.                           AP glass on the other hand accentuated the wine’s
                                                                                                                                                                                              While on a job hunt I stumbled across a restaurant that
                                                                                                                                                                                              offered over one hundred different varieties of beer at all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            on out the rest was history, the CIA Brew Club began
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            brewing on larger scale and producing beer for special                          Beer is also a down-to-earth kind of beverage where
                By: ANDREA MORRIS                                   Recently, the Champagne house Charles Heidsick           trademark buttered toast aromas, smelling rich with              times. I obviously submitted my application and once                                                                                     the culture is more relaxed and forgiving than wine
                                                                commissioned Riedel (naturally) to create a decanter         just a hint of lemon zest. The flute had the most                                                                              events on campus for students to try. While going
                                                                                                                                                                                              hired this restaurant quickly became my home away             through the culinary program I eventually came across                      is. Beer can be served with any food, it only requires
    Stemware has been subject for debate for quite              specifically for young vintage Champagne. This is            balanced nose, featuring notes of both yeast and green                                                  from        home.                                                                                 a bit of consideration when choosing the right malted
some time now. With over 100 different glasses, there           unequivocally counterintuitive to the concept of the         apples. The flute was two for two so far.                                                                                      my nemesis, wines class. I have always had a grudge
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     While working          against this class, because I felt that this amazing school                beverage for a meal. A great meal is to be shared with
truly is a different glass for each wine. There seems to        flute, as a decanter would expedite the loss of the                When the time for tasting came around,                                                            at this brewpub I                                                                                 friends and family and the appropriate beverage. Beer
be general consensus that the fuller bodied the wine,           very bubbles that the narrow, tube-like flute has been       the Burgundy glass’s contents were indubitably                                                                                 should also have a beer course. The wines class was
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     quickly became         very informative and educational but I still left with                     is the better accompaniment since you can enjoy more
the larger the bowl of the glass should be, the smaller         designed to preserve. The logic behind the decanter          decarbonated and the AP glass was well on its way                                                       familiar with all                                                                                 beer styles with different courses without getting drunk
glass focusing the more delicate aromas of white wines          was that the vintage Champagne, like other great             to flat as well. The effervescence in the flute, on the                                                                        that feeling that wine was reserved for those snobs
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     of the classics        and the upper classes. I have spent countless hours                        during the meal. This is because most beers contain
and the larger allowing tightly wound tannins to open           wines, benefits from exposure to air to help bring out       other hand, was going strong; I felt like I was watching                                                styles including                                                                                  half the amount of alcohol than wine, which allows you
up and breath in heavy reds. In a pinch, there is               complexities, bubbles be damned.                             a race in which two of the cars had flat tires. The taste                                                                      in our school’s library reading a number of books on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     pilsners, stouts,      brewing. A great book that Brighdin had mentioned,
always the AP (All Purpose) glass, a sort of comprise               Being able to afford neither vintage Champagne           followed the nose for each of the three glasses, with the                                               IPAs, etc. I was
for restaurants with limited storage and/or funding.            nor a limited edition crystal decanter, I modified           Burgundy glass’s Champagne tasting alarmingly like a                                                                           He Said Beer She Said Wine is a great reference for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     also introduced        those looking for further education between wine and
    This is all fine and well for a Wednesday night glass       this experiment to fit the dormitory life, employing         lightly oaked Chardonnay now that it was completely                                                     to new styles of
of Napa Cab or Mosel Riesling, but what happens                 a half bottle of NV Taittinger, a flute glass, an AP         still. The AP glass continued to emphasize the wine’s                                                                          beer. In attempts to defend and educate the student
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Belgium beers,         body about the superior qualities of beer I have
when a celebration rolls around? A couple is having             glass and a small Burgundy glass. Upon pouring               richer, less fruity components while also making                                                        unique strong
an anniversary; an unusually classy college student             the wine, the differing aesthetics were immediately          the heat of the alcohol more apparent, and not in a                                                                            included a few following arguments in hopes to alter
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     ales, and some         wine connoisseurs’ preferences.
is turning 21. Predictably, the Champagne will be               apparent: in the two regular glasses the bubbles,            desirable manner. Once again, the flute came through,                                                   world         class
brought out it all its ostentatious glory. No other wine        Champagne’s crowning glory, were larger in size than         delivering an initial sensation of baking brioche that                                                                               First and foremost, brewing beer was the building
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     North American         block of our civilization dating back to 7000 BCE
lends itself to flair quite like sparkling wine, from the       those in the flute where they rose in a tidy stream,         was then cut by green apple and lemon flavors, giving                                                   microbreweries.
extra heavy bottle to the conspicuous pop of the cork           while the bubbles in the larger glasses behaved like         it a refreshing, balanced finish.                                                                                              while wine was introduced in 5000 BCE. Historians
                                                                                                                                                                                              The way I looked at beer would never be the same              believe that beer has moved early man from hunter-
as it makes its escape to the dancing bubbles in the            soda bubbles; elegance gone. This discrepancy can                  While certain highly distinguished champagnes              again. From there on out I began trying different beers
glass. Really, Champagne is the Madonna among                   be attributed the flute having a “scratch point”, a tiny,    may improve from a little extra air contact, I don’t think                                                                     gather to developing farming. Also, beer was and still
                                                                                                                                                                                              as often as possible and began to develop my pallet.          is such a staple for each town since every community
pop stars, the Jaguar in a sea of Toyotas.                      deliberate imperfection in the bottom the bowl that          I’ll be throwing out my flutes anytime soon. It turns            During this time in my life I also began learning the
    The drinking vessel used for this bottle of sparkling       forms a gathering point for the bubbles, organizing          out that glass shape does indeed have the potential                                                                            brewed their own signature style of beer in which they
                                                                                                                                                                                              coveted skill of brewing beer. I discovered that this         were recognized for. Beer even played a significant
wine, be it André or Cristal, will be poured into a flutes,     them to rise from the center.                                to affect the wine drinking experience beyond pure               hobby was a simple one and that in order to produce
as a matter of course. The tall, slender flute has become           Following the “aeration is beneficial” train of          aesthetics. Though I truly doubt that I’ll be buying                                                                           role during the medieval times where the monks,
                                                                                                                                                                                              a great tasting beer minimal energy was required.             known for their advancements in science, depended
so intertwined with the drinking of Champagne that              thought, I expected the Burgundy glass, being the            separate Syrah and Merlot glasses anytime soon.                  Since then I have been brewing beer and trying to win
to question this pairing is considered by most to be as         widest) to have the most dramatic nose, and the flute                                                                                                                                       on the beverage for its nutritious qualities. Is beer a
                                                                                                                                                                                              over those non-believers that believe that beer is not a      more civilized beverage than wine? As the great Sam
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       to enjoy several different styles of beer rather than a
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Ever Dream of Having Your Own                                                                                                   couple glasses of wine.
                                                                sorelle to encompass me into a trance of comfort and         fresh greens and mozzarella, gnocchi with basil pesto,
            Sweet, Le Sorelle                                   pure bliss.                                                  along with what seemed like an endless number
                                                                                                                                                                                                      Four Star Country Restaurant / Inn?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Beer has a style of its own, since beer has the perfect
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       amount of carbonation, the bubbles help release even
               By: KELSEY BARNARD                                   I took my seat and was welcomed by a plump Italian       of tasting dishes flooded our table like clockwork.                                                                                                                                                       more aromas. Since beer is made from only four main
    Dining, to put it mildly, has come a long way.              woman with curly, salt and pepper hair twisted in a          Each was seasonal, homemade, flawlessly paired and                                                                                                                                                        ingredients it develops a very unique flavor profile from
Gone are the days of eating solely for survival- a fork         loose bun. In botched English, she introduced herself        executed, creating a dining euphoria around us. We                You and your team could assume this 18th Century Regis-                                                                                 the roasted grain, grassy hops, and a fruity spice from
to mouth motion focused on fueling the body, lacking            as one of the sisters who owned the restaurant, then         left the restaurant with satisfied souls and stars in our                                                                                                                                                 the yeast. These simple ingredients assist in making
                                                                proceeded to take our drink orders-or, rather suggest        eyes- knowing this experience would not be topped, or                     tered National Historic Landmark with its
any emotion or even pleasure. While our ancestors                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      beer a more flavorful and refreshing beverage. I also
were sitting on rocks, content on eating tasteless or           our drink orders. “You musta have thees wine! Thees          at least not without extreme effort and frankly, a sheer              history as a four star rated country restaurant for                                                                                 feel that all of these qualities make beer more complex
worse, rancid food with their hands it behooves us to           one!” she explained, pointing to one of the hundreds         miracle.                                                                              over four decades!                                                                                                  and inviting beverage unlike wine that can sometimes
pay hundreds of dollars for even one night of eating.           of bottles stored in the racks above us. Of course, we            As culinarians, food is our passion. But hospitality                                                                                                                                                 smell like “cat pee on a mulberry bush.”
Author, Virginia Woolf, once said, “One cannot think            obliged. Then she scurried across the room, fetching a       and service are our tools. We are puppet masters                                                                                                                                                               Overall, wine and beer have their respective
well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”        waiter to retrieve our bottle, and returned with a basket    pulling the strings of our customers, manipulating them                           Interested parties please contact                                                                                       applications, I feel strongly about pairing a great
Well, not to insult the ways of the cavemen, but I could        of fresh baked bread and homemade olive oil. To              to feel a certain emotion over each dish we place in                                                                                                                                                      handcrafted beer with a meal rather than a wine. Do
not agree with Miss Virginia more.                              appropriately describe this bread and oil would require      front of them. The flicker of candlelight, the soft hum of                                  John Novi                                                                                                     not get me wrong I feel that there is a time and a place
    While on vacation in Italy last summer, I stumbled          me to somehow emit smells through paper, so I will just      music in the background-it’s the little things that count.                                 845-687-7777                                                                                                   for wine, but overall beer is a more versatile, unique,
upon a quaint restaurant tucked amidst the cobblestone          leave it at the fact that it was heavenly. Clouds of flour   Maybe it was the owner’s nurturing ways, guiding me                                                                                                                                                       and flavorful beverage.
                                                                and yeast crisped to perfection with grassy, olive oil to    throughout my meal, or the relaxed ambiance created                             
roads of Rome. From the wild ivy hugging the doorway
to the hand-painted sign of two stick-figured girls             drown it in.                                                 by mis-matched china and local artwork hung on
holding hands above the scrolled words “Le sorelle”                 We managed to pull ourselves together, continuing        ancient Italian walls. All I am sure of is that my evening                               1315 Main Street — Route 213
(the sisters, in Italian), I couldn’t help but feel as though   on with our evening as we ordered based on her               was nothing short of an esthetic experience- a perfect                                   P.O. Box 96 1315 Main Street

I was being invited in. I walked in and allowed Le              guidance. Pasta with a porcini cream sauce, salad of         combination of great food and warm hospitality.                                           High Falls, New York 12440
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Photos by iStock Photos
     POt luCk
                                                                                                      LA PAPILLOTE   August 19, 2010                                                                                                                                POT LUCK
10                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           11
                                                                                                                                                               BPS Graduation Speaker
                                                                                                                                                                  Anthony Rudolf is the general manager of the James
                                                                                                                                                             Beard Foundation Award-winning Per Se, one of several
                                                                                                                                                             concepts of the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group. In
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    In The Kn w
                                                                                                                                                             this position, he oversees all aspects of the acclaimed
         BPS Graduating Class of June 18, 2010                                                                                                               New York City restaurant’s operation, including culture,
                                                                                                                                                             philosophy, and service. Mr. Rudolf first joined the Per
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    News of what’s taking place, here
                                                                                                                                                             Se team in 2006 as maître d’ and demonstrated the                           there and everywhere
                                                                                                                                                             dedication that made him the natural choice to lead the
                                                                                                                                                             restaurant. During his tenure, Per Se has been recognized          As many as 8.5 million people in Punjab, Pakistan
                                                                                                                                                             for its notable cuisine and service with a 3-star rating        have been negativly affected by the disastrous flooding.
                                                                                                                                                             in the Michelin Guide, inclusion in the U.K.-based              Reports of looting and protests over food deepened
                                                                                                                                                             Restaurant magazine’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list,         the sense of desperation across the province, the
                                                                                                                                                             and in the Zagat Survey as the New York City restaurant         country’s most populous region and its agricultural
                                                                                                                                                             with the highest overall rating for service.                    hot spot.
                                                                                                                                                                  Prior to joining Per Se, Mr. Rudolf worked under
                                                                                                                                                             Jean-Georges Vongerichten as service director at Jean                Portugal has chosen to reduce its dependence
                                                                                                                                                             Georges in New York City, and before that as its front          on imported fossil fuels, embarking on ambitious
                                                                                                                                                             waiter. During his time at Jean Georges, the restaurant         renewable energy projects with their focus primarily
                                                                                                                                                             received a 3-star Michelin rating and a 4-star review           on harnessing the country’s wind and hydropower,
                                                                                                                                                             from The New York Times. He began his career at the             sunlight, and ocean waves. Compared with the United
                                                                                                                                                             Doubletree Hotel in Philadelphia, where he was the food         States, European countries have powerful incentives
                                                                                                                                                             and beverage director.                                          to pursue renewable energy. Many, like Portugal, have
                                                                                                                                                                  Mr. Rudolf started out as an aspiring chef; however, he    little fossil fuel of their own, and the European Union’s
                                                                                                                                 Anthony W. Rudolf III ’01   fell in love with the dining room at The Culinary Institute     emissions trading system discourages fossil fuel use
                                                                                                                                    General Manager          of America, where he graduated with a bachelor’s degree         by requiring industry to essentially pay for excessive
                                                                                                                                         Per Se              in culinary arts management in 2001.                            carbon dioxide emissions.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Information and facts courtsey of

         AOS Graduating Class of June 18, 2010
                             Sarah    Aierstuck
                          Sang-Jin    Bae

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         For Sale
                          Jennifer    Bailey
                              Kyle    Barnett
                           Anders     Benson
                        Charlotte     Berdensey
                           Nathan     Berg
                              Viraj   Borkar                                                                                                                                                                                             Former Steakhouse Restaurant
                          Michael     Brookshire
                              Julie   Caldwell                                                                                                                                                                                                   Catskill, NY
                           Lauren     Camacho                                                                                                                                                                                                   Great Location
                           Robert     Chaisson
                            Margit    Chamberlain                                                                                                                                                                                            2nd Floor Apartment
                        Hyun Suk      Chung                                                                                                                                                                                                    Asking $325,000
                         Jonathan     Churan
                           Angela     Collura
                          Zachary     Custer
                               Eric   Dabney                                                                                                                                                                                                    (845)246-7962
                          Brittany    Dawson
                             Paula    De Pano                           Roy Choi ’98
                          Michael     DeCicco                            Co-Owner
                           Jeremy     Dennison                     Kogi Korean BBQ-To-Go
                           Jeremy     Dixon
                              Amy     Dolinko
                                                     AOS Graduation Speaker
                          Andrew      Eriquez
                              Scott   Fiene              At a time when chefs and food trucks were members
                             Brian    Fowler        of distinctly different classes of the food world, Roy
                             Diego    Garcia        Choi rented a truck of his own and hit the streets of
                             Jacob    Gaumer        Los Angeles with his unique Mexican tacos stuffed with
                         Carolina     Gomez         Korean BBQ-style meat. With a pedigree including The
                             Jenna    Hanshe        Culinary Institute of America, Le Bernardin, and the
                           Gyouei     Heo           Beverly Hills Hilton, Chef Choi might not have seemed
                          Claudia     Hernandez
                          Brianna     Hurley        the most likely candidate to go roadside, hawking tacos
                          Andrew      Jardim        on street corners—but that is exactly what he did. And
                              Linn    Johansen      that is exactly what has garnered the praise and the
                                                    attention of the food press and public.
                                                         Serving Angeleno street food out of a truck in the
                                                    middle of the night wasn’t exactly a big part of Chef
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Welcome Back
                             Dana     King          Choi’s initial aspirations as a young chef. For 15 years,                                                                                                                               Culinary Arts Group

                           Carlton    Kramer        he’d worked his way through New York, San Francisco,
                            Daniel    Leibovitch
                         Nicholas     Lewis         Portland, and Lake Tahoe, executing classical French                                                                                                                             SITE NAME                              STUDENT
                                                    technique in professional kitchens. But perhaps those                                                                                                                    BG      Maniorce de Lebioles                             Mewissen
                           Kristin    Leydig                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Abdderrahman            Berrada
                                                    years were necessary in preparing him to express the                                                                                                                     LA      Marriott-New Orleans
                             Nikita   Lindgren                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Michael
                        Catherine     Martinez      soul of a second-generation Los Angeles, to create new                                                                                                                   LA      Marriott-New Orleans                             Corbin
                           Robert     Mason         flavor profiles that would carry the heartbeat of the very                                                                                                               Fl      Marriott-Orlando World Center Timothy            Perry
                         Jonathan     Mathews                                                                                                                                                                                FL      Marriott-Orlando World Center      Justin        Helmberger
                                                    immigrant influences that thrive and survive underneath
                              Kyle    McDermott                                                                                                                                                                              CA      Meadowood Napa Valley              Glenn         Forde Jr
                                                    a California sun.
                        Christina     Mergens                                                                                                                                                                                NY      Metrazur                        Sehjong          Min
                                                         After being laid off in the early days of the recession,

                                                                                                                                 The UPS
                            Jessica   Misenheimer                                                                                                                                                                            LA      Nola                          Cassandra          Becker
                            Joshua    Nickerson     Chef Choi was approached by his friend Mark Manguera
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             NY      Restaurant Daniel                 Daniel         Moreno
                        Dominica      Ogazi         with the idea of running a taco truck. And so in 2008,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             DC      Ritz Carlton                       Hanei         Park
                               Sue    Reidy         in partnership with Mark and Caroline Manguera,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             FL      Ritz Carlton-Orlando           Harrison          Milanian
                          Edward      Ryan          he launched Kogi Korean BBQ-To-Go. Startup was

                              Leila   Schardt                                                                                                                                                                                NY      River Café                        Alyssa         Failla
                                                    anything but easy, but Kogi’s popularity grew after Eats.
                               Zoe    Sirjane                                                                                                                                                                                LA      Stella                       Christopher         Sandagato
                                                    com blogger Alice Shin—now in charge of PR for Kogi—
                          Richard     Soto                                                                                                                                                                                   CA      Studio Restaurant             Alexandra          Svadjian
                                                    took notice. The business later became a phenomenon
                              Sam     Spiva                                                                                                                                                                                  NY      Tarrytown house                     John         Kelly
                             Emily    Stapleton
                                                    after it began using Twitter to let its fans know where
                           Aubrey     Stenabaugh    the Kogi truck would be. Today, with four trucks and
                                                    one outlet in the Alibi Room—a lounge in Culver City,
                                                                                                                                 Low Shipping Rates                                                                          MA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Top of the Hub
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     WDW-Grand Floridian                  Paul
                             Jason    Story                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Chelsea         Campagna
                                                    CA—Kogi Korean BBQ-To-Go has more than 50,000                                                                                                                            FL      WDW-Le Cellier Steakhouse
                           Natalie    Suppa                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Chris
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             FL      WDW-Le Cellier Steakhouse                        Diaz
                            Ashley    Taylor        followers on Twitter. Building on the success of his             Get your shipments there, on time and intact                                                            VA      Williamsburg Lodge                 Mitch         Willis
                        Christian     Tondre        mobile culinary business, Chef Choi opened Chego, his
                         Carolina     Torreano      first sit-down restaurant, in April 2010.                             Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes                                                                    FL      Woodfield Country Club            Randy          Rivers
                             Emily    Urbanski           Recently honored as one of Food & Wine magazine’s                Domestic & International Shipping
                               Eric   Walters       Best New Chefs of 2010, Chef Choi has been featured in                                                                                                                               Baking and Pastry Group

                             Sitara   Ward
                                                    national publications including Time and Newsweek. In                  Local Pick-up Service Available
                            Daniel    Warsaw
                                                    2009, “The Kogi Truck” was named one of Bon Appétit                           Full Copy Services                                                                                  SITE NAME                       STUDENT
                            Tracey    Watson                                                                                                                                                                                 NY      Monroe Golf Course                  Courtney     Stewart
                           Harper     White         magazine’s “Hot 10.”
                                                                                                                                                                    Poughkeepsie Plaza
                                                                                                                     2600 South Road (Route 9)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             NY      Statler Hotel @Cornell U.             Jessica
                           Melissa    Wright             In addition to his culinary arts degree from the CIA,                                                                                                                                                                        Jonston
                           Amber      Zeglen                                                                                                                                                                                 NY      Taste Budds                         Georgina
                                                    Chef Choi holds a bachelor’s degree in philosophy from                                                                                                                                                                            Mattull
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             MA      Top of the Hub                       Kristina
                                                    California State University, Fullerton.
                                                                                                                          845.454.3505                               (Near Marshall's)                                       NY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Turning Stone
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     WDW Orlando World Center
             La Papillote &
         The Photography Club
        Photo-journalism Contest!
                                                                                            Caption This!

                                                                                  Submit a wacky caption for the above picture to for a
                                                                                 chance to win a round-trip MTA train ticket to New York City. The winning entry
                                                                                     will be chosen based on creativity, originality, and degree of humor. The
                                                                                     deadline for receiving entries is Monday, September 6, 2010. Look out
                                                                                                    for the winning caption in our next issue!

                                                                                            Congratulations Aubrey King!
                                                                              You have won yourself
                                                                                a round-trip MTA
                                                                                   train ticket to
                                                                                 New York City!
   Students participating must submit one piece of original work that
                                                                                Winning Caption:
   depicts the essence of life at the Culinary Institute of America. The
                                                                              “Three girls dressing up and
pictures should be in color, captured within the given block and must be
                                                                            looking glamourous. Since we all
          in the letter and spirit of the student code of conduct.
                                                                            know they’ll look like boys come
 Winners will receive a round-trip ticket on the MTA to NYC and their
                                                                                Monday, since they’ll be
work will be featured in the next La Papillote issue. Submissions are due
                                                                                     in chef whites.”
  on the first Friday of every new block. For more information contact, or

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