The Olive Tree and its Fruit
The History The olive is a subtropical, broad-leaved, perennial tree that produces edible fruit. Its ancestor, oleastro, dates back millions of years. Archaeological records indicate that olives have been eaten for over 35,000 years, and that man has cultivated the tree for at least 6,000 years. The olive tree ranges in height from 10 to 40 feet, or more, and can become very old- some in the eastern Mediterranean are estimated to be over 2,000 years old. The olive tree originated in Asia Minor and spread along the coasts of the Mediterranean. About 6,000 years ago, in the Fertile Crescent-what is today Syria and Palestine - olives first began to be cultivated. The practice quickly spread to Crete, flourishing in the island's dry climate. Cretans became wealthy by exporting the oil and making lotions and cosmetics from it. An entire shipping fleet was made for selling oil to the Egyptians and the Greeks, carrying large quantities of oil in amphorae (vase-like jars) known as pithoi. The first recorded oil extraction mill was in Palestine in 1000 B.C. Over 100 olive presses have been found in Tel Mique Akron, where the Philistines first produced oil. These 100 presses managed to produce between 1,000 and 3,000 tons of olive oil per year. The Tree The wood of the olive tree resists decay, and when the top of the tree is damaged by bad weather or human mistakes, a new trunk will grow back from the roots. Despite harsh winters and smoldering hot summers, the olive tree continues to grow and produce fruit. The branches are able to carry a large amount of olives on their twigs, which are so flexible that they sway with the slightest breeze but remain very strong. Olive leaves are thick and leathery. Each leaf grows over a 2-year period and flowers bloom in late spring. They are small and white, grouped in loose clusters in the axels of the leaves. There are two different kinds of flowers: perfect flowers, containing both male and female parts, which are capable of developing into the olive fruits; and staminate flowers, male only, which contain the pollen-producing parts. The Fruit The olive fruit is a drupe, botanically similar to an almond or a small nectarine. The skin is smooth and free of hairs and the pit encloses the seed. Fruit shape and size vary greatly among the different varietals. For example, Kalamata olives, Greece's most prestigious olives, are small, black and oval while Cerignola olives, main product of Apulia, are green, round and rather large.
Some other common Italian olives are: Frantoio, native of Tuscany, Moraiolo, also from Tuscany, and Leccino, particularly known for its tolerance to adverse weather and cultivated in all the olive-growing regions of Italy. Olives tend to have a maximum oil content and greatest weight 6 to 8 months after the blossoms appear. Olives for consumption have different colors because they are at different stages of ripeness or are cured in different ways, not necessarily because they are different types of olives. All fresh olives are bitter and tough. They have to be separated according to color and size, then soaked in a lye treatment (traditionally wood ash) and cured in either dry salt, or oil. Finally, they're packed in either oil or vinegar with herbs, spices, and other flavorings. The best olives to make olive oil are those that are not yet fully ripe. In Tuscany , the select oil made from these unripe olives is called "l'olio del padrone " - the oil given to the olive tree orchard's owner. The Oil
Olives are grown mainly for the production of olive oil, of which Italy and Spain are now the most prolific producers. Extra-virgin olive oil is produced in almost every region of Italy, except Piedmont and Val d'Aosta. The leading producers are Liguria, Tuscany, Umbria and Apulia. There are about 30 varieties of olives growing in Italy today, and each yields a distinct oil with its own characteristics. In the beginning, the Etruscans from Umbria, Tuscany, Northern Lazio and parts of Emilia-Romagna were the main producers and exporters of oil in the Mediterranean. They were growing olive trees in the first century A.D., and when they were conquered by the Romans, the Romans became the greatest olive oil producers in the world--with olive tree groves throughout the Roman Empire, including what is now Spain, Southern France, Northern Africa, and the Middle East. The Empire also formed trade associations and laws covering the production and sale of olive oil. After the fall of the Empire, olive oil production suffered and large-scale production and trade ended. However, the means of production began once again to improve during the Middle Ages and throughout the Renaissance. Once the Crusades reopened trade between the Mediterranean and the East, the ports of Genova and Venice was revitalized and Italy once again became the olive-oil making powerhouse it is today. Despite updates in olive pressing and oil separating technology, the overall process is still practically identical to what it was thousands of years ago. The Sacred Tree
"The dove came back to him in the evening, and lo, in her mouth a freshly plucked olive leaf; so Noah knew that the waters had subsided from the earth..." This is possibly the most frequently cited line from the Bible featuring the olive tree. In the Old Testament, Noah sent a winged messenger of peace on a mission to find dry land after the Flood. The dove returned to the ark with an olive leaf in her beak, announcing the retreat of the waters from the earth in the olive groves located in the area of what is now called Mount
Ararat, in western Turkey. Promises, admonitions, precepts and prophecies of the Old Testament frequently refer to olive trees, which is not surprising given that they were considered indispensable and vital for people's health and sustenance. The Promised Land, the land of the Hebrews, is described as the country of wheat, barley, grapes, pomegranates, olives and honey. King Solomon and King David placed great importance in the cultivation of olive trees. King David even had guards watching over the olive groves and warehouses to ensure the safety of the trees and their special oil, which was used for commerce and trade. The Mythical Olive Tree
Prophets often warned the population to behave or else God would punish them either by destroying olive trees, or by making them produce bad olive oil. The prophet Joel foresaw that God's punishment would consist of devastating the fields, ruining the corn, drying the wine supply and ending oil production forever. When the population repented, God restored their crops, wine and oil (Joel 2:19-24). The Jews, and then the Christians, began using olive oil to anoint kings, priests and believers. In fact, the word "Christ" means "anointed, consecrated." The prophet Malachea mentions that rivers of oil flowed during libations, and Samuel refers to the consecration of Saul with a jar of oil. Nowadays, the olive tree is still considered sacred, mysterious and mythical-a majestic tree that can survive thousands of years and watch history fly by. The Olive Tree in Greek Mythology In Greek mythology, Athens was built by the semi-god Cecrope, who was half man and half snake. As the first king, Cecrope unified the populations of the Attic villages of the Acropolis and asked the gods for a sign of their protection. Poseidon, god of the sea, and Athena, Zeus's daughter and goddess of wisdom, fought over who would give them a sign. Poseidon struck a rock with his trident; the rock released seawater and a horse that could run faster than the wind. Athena planted the first olive tree, a tree that for centuries would give mankind a delicious juice that could be used to prepare food, heal wounds and diseases, and give light. Naturally, Cecrope declared Athena the winner. Athena became the city's protector and namesake, and the Parthenon was built in her honor. Built near the very first olive tree, the Parthenon became a symbol of Greek culture, freedom and peace. Another myth says that Theseus, son of Egeo and Etra, chief of the expedition to Crete, defeated and killed the Minotaur to free the city of Athens from the yearly human sacrifice. Theseus was able to leave the labyrinth only thanks to a string-which he had tied around the branch of an olive tree.
Olive trees have always dominated the area around Athens. In 86 B.C., the Roman dictator Lucio Cornelio Silla had all of the trees destroyed in order to build instruments of war. Their destruction was interpreted as an omen of death. Solone, poet, legislator and political chief, had more trees planted and became famous for having promoted the cultivation of olive trees and placed them under Zeus' protection. Since then, nobody has been able to destroy these precious trees. Another legend states that Alliroto, son of Poseidon, upset by his father's defeat, tried to destroy the olive trees with an axe. The olive tree fell on him and killed him. In addition, Homer featured olive oil and olive trees prominently in his work. For instance, olive branches ensured that the souls of the dead successfully crossed the river Acheron to the underworld on Charon's boat. For the same reasons, the Spartans buried their dead on a bed of olive twigs. Those who attended the funeral wore crowns of olive branches to protect themselves from evil. Eventually, olive oil's all-important role through Greece resulted in changes to the law and the currency. In 500 B.C., an image of Athena's head crowned with olive oil was added to the drachma, the Greek coin that was also the most circulated currency in the Mediterranean. Meanwhile, in Sparta, anyone who cut down a tree was executed or exiled. Olive oil also featured in early religious ceremonies, including the Olympics, which were named after the city of Olympia. Here, games were dedicated to the father of the gods, Zeus. Prizes included cash and olive oil. The oil was gathered in amphorae of five to eight and a half gallons each, meaning winners would receive 220-450 gallons of oil each! The winner was crowned with olive branches--the tradition was instated by Heracles, who organized the first Olympic ceremonies. The Romans continued this tradition by crowning victorious generals and emperors with olive wreaths. Olive Oil's Cosmetic and Therapeutic Properties Ancient Greeks and Romans used olive oil to care for their bodies. Almost all men and women, young or old, sick or healthy, rich or poor, used it a few times a day. Oil was spread all over the body before and after bathing. At first its function was only that of soap, then it was used as a moisturizer, enriched with aromas obtained from herbs and flowers. Those with dry hair and skin were considered dirty. For this reason people bathed and moisturized their entire bodies with oil at least once a day in order to cultivate a healthy appearance. At first these ointments obtained from the combination of olive oil and herbs or flowers were imported from the Orient, then they were produced in Greece and later
on in the Roman Empire. Typically, a noblewoman would bathe three times a day, while a Greek playboy would bathe at least five times! The Egyptians manufactured perfumes and ointments of all types, and Cleopatra was known for using a variety of perfumes and cosmetics. Many of them used olive oil as a base, usually from colorless, tasteless, unscented olives picked well before they were ripe (about three months too early), in August. This care of the body also had a practical reason: oil forms a protective film over the skin thus shielding the pores from infiltrations of dirt and dust. In addition, oil is a bad thermal conductor that guards the skin from excessive cold. The numerous containers for olive oil made of different materials like gold, silver, marble, ivory, or wood, are a testament to the ancient cult for cleanliness and the use of emulsifiers. It is not clear if the silver vase above, decorated with olive branches and olives, was used as a container for aromatic oils, edible olive oil, olives or wine. Preserved at Naples National Museum, the vase was found with 118 other pieces that were part of a dining set recovered in the excavation of the Menander House in Pompeii. The vase dates back to the Imperial period and was buried during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius that took place in the 1st century. Olive oil wasn't used only for the production of aromatic moisturizer, but also as an ointment for wounds and curative pomades. Such ointments were used to treat bleeding wounds, insect bites, headaches, tired eyes or any other parts of the body that needed to be disinfected. It was also used in cases of poisoning, stomach problems and even pregnancy. In the Bible, Moses uses olive oil to cure lepers. Olive Oil and Health Whether eaten raw or used in cooking, olive oil is one of the healthiest foods because of its mono-saturated fatty acids and balanced polyunsaturated content-not to mention its content of vitamin E, pro-vitamin E, and antioxidants. Fats can be divided into two broad categories: saturated and unsaturated. Saturated fats, like butter and lard, are solid when they are at room temperature. On the other hand, unsaturated fats are liquid even when at room temperature and have a lower cholesterol level because of the low density of lipids. Olive oil is extremely high in unsaturated fat and very low in saturated fat. It has been proven not only to lower cholesterol, but also to protect against heart disease. People who live on the Mediterranean basin use olive oil as the fat of choice on everything from sautés to salads and sauces, and they typically have very low rates of coronary disease. Of course, the Mediterranean diet is also rich in fruits, vegetables, and grains, and relies on meat only in very small amounts, which also contributes to people's good health. Olive oil has been shown to have many other health benefits, including:
* Slowing the aging of tissues as an antioxidant * Reducing the risk of heart disease and aiding circulation in heart attack patients * Reducing and treating gall stones * Softening the skin, healing wounds, treating and smoothening dry skin * Helping ease painful joints. Cooking Techniques: Sautéing, Deep- Frying, and Baking To Italian chefs, mothers and home cooks, extra-virgin olive oil is a magical, all-purpose ingredient. It can be used for every cooking need, from sautéing meat to marinating; from brushing roasts or fish before grilling to deepfrying and baking. Every dish in Italy feels the invigorating touch of extra-virgin olive oil. In fact, Italians use it above all other fats both for cooking, including baking, and for drizzling raw onto finished dishes. The result is a healthy, fresh taste of Mediterranean cuisine in every bite. Raw When olive oil is raw, all its distinct sensory characteristics are heightened because it is unaltered by the heat. The oil retains its aroma and original flavor while adding body and depth to food by balancing its acidity level. Raw olive oil is tasty not only when drizzled over fresh salads or toasted bread, but also when it is the final touch to already-sauced pastas or creamy soups. To obtain best results with raw olive oil, buy the highest-quality oil possible. Sautéing The French word "sauté" comes from the verb "sauter," or "to jump." This refers to the constant stirring that keeps the food in motion, almost jumping, so that it will not burn but rather cook evenly outside without overcooking inside. Sautéing food in olive oil imbues the ingredients with the oil's lovely aroma and flavor. At the same time, sugars caramelize, moisture is drawn out, and the food's texture changes drastically. Foods to be sautéed should be cut into relatively small pieces or thin slices (a small steak rather than a roast), so they can cook quickly but don't overcrowd the pan. To sauté, pour the olive oil cold into the pan and bring up the temperature. When the oil is heated through, add the food item. Stir, toss or turn as it cooks for a few minutes, making sure it doesn't burn. Deep-Frying The role of extra-virgin olive oil in deep frying is a bit ambiguous. Some studies say that it is the healthiest choice, while others say that because it has a lower smoke point than other fats (it smokes at 250° as compared to 410° for peanut oil), it is not safe. The debate remains academic, because the high cost of extra-virgin olive oil makes it an undesirable choice for deep-frying. In fact, to fry properly with olive oil, at least 3 to 4 cups are needed to fill the pot so that food can float around and acquire a golden color and a delectable crisp texture. We advocate the use of regular, virgin olive oil or canola oil for deep-frying; you should save the extra-virgin for other uses which allow its true flavor to shine through.
Deep-Frying Tips: * Always use a fresh, unused batch of oil for frying. Oil that has been previously used contains residues and is unhealthy. * Do not batter or bread the food until just before placing it in the oil. If you bread the food too soon before frying, liquids in the food may make the coating gummy. Baking Italians have long been using extra-virgin olive oil in their desserts, not only because it adds a delectable flavor and a desirable dimension, but because it is definitely healthier than using butter. Classic Tuscan cuisine uses extra-virgin olive oil in the preparation of delicious desserts like schiacciata con l'uva (flatbread with grapes) and castagnaccio, a chestnut flour pancake. Many other Italian cookies, fritters and pastries are also prepared with extra-virgin olive oil. Making Savory Sauces with Olive Oil Italian cuisine emphasizes the simple and excellent flavors of each ingredient used. When sauces are made to go with food, the goal is to heighten or complement the food's flavor in the best possible way, not to mask or change it. As a result, Italian sauces are very straightforward. Most Italian sauces are made with olive oil-from mayonnaise to basil pesto to salsa cruda, a chopped tomato sauce. Try some of these easy recipes: Tomato Coulis and Celery Coulis Serve these two sauces as an accompaniment to steamed seafood such as sole, shrimp and lobster. Tomato Coulis * 1 1/2 pounds under-ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded * 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil * salt, to taste Combine the above ingredients in a blender or a food processor until smooth. Serves 4 (as an accompaniment to seafood). Celery Coulis * 4 stalks celery * 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil * salt, to taste Combine the above ingredients in a blender or a food processor until smooth. Pass the purèe through a chinois or fine meshed sieve. Serves 4 (as an accompaniment to seafood)
Caper Sauce This is a great sauce to use with beef and poultry. * 2 tablespoons capers, drained if stored in brine, rinsed if salted * juice of 1/2 lemon * 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Finely chop the capers. Place them in a saucer, and bathe with the lemon juice. Slowly add the extra-virgin olive oil; mix well until it reaches a smooth consistency. Makes about 1 cup. Garlic Sauce This sauce is usually used for boiled fish and meat. * 2 garlic cloves * Bread crumbs from 1 roll * 1 anchovy, washed * 1 small bunch parsley, washed * salt and freshly ground black pepper * 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil * 4 tablespoons vinegar Soak the bread crumbs in a small bowl of water and vinegar for 5 minutes; remove and squeeze the juices out. Place in a blender, add the parsley, garlic, anchovy, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the olive oil and blend for 5 minutes. Makes about 1 cup. Infused Olive Oils Olive oil is perhaps the one ingredient that most characterizes Italian cuisine. It is used to prepare sauces, meats, vegetables, pasta, fish and cheeses-or simply as a dipping sauce for chunks of crusty bread. The quality and taste of olive oil depends on various factors, from the type of olive used to the way it is harvested and processed. Olive oil cognoscenti already know the differences between regional oils, spicy or mild oils, and green or yellow ones. Flavored olive oils, however, add a whole new spectrum of tastes. Sage, basil and rosemary are only a few of the herbs that lend their aroma and distinct taste to infused Italian olive oils. Cooking with Infused Olive Oils Infused olive oils will give you the same flavor of classic Italian ingredients without having to eat whole sage leaves or bits of rosemary. They provide a quick and simple way to add a lot of flavor to a dish. Here are some suggestions for cooking with infused oils:
* Never use truffle olive oil for cooking. Its superbly delicate flavor gets lost in the process. It is far better suited for dressing a finished plate or dipping with bread. * Garlic, sage, rosemary and lemon olive oils are perfect for sautéing. Use one half the amount of aromatic oil and one half the amount of regular olive oil for best results. Infused Olive Oils from the Italian Culinary Institute Our store offers 6 different varieties of infused olive oil imported directly from Italy in the following flavors: Rosemary, Sage, Basil, Truffle, Lemon and Garlic. The oils come in 4-ounce blue bottles, which maintain their quality and taste. This amount is small enough to be used while the ingredients are at their freshest. At the same time, the blue glass shields the oil and its essence from light infiltration and protects it from spoiling. All of the Institute's infused olive oils come with authentic Italian recipes that emphasize their use in sautéing foods, dressing non-cooked items and providing a meal's finishing touches. Tasting Olive Oil Picking a good extra-virgin olive oil is simple: just taste a few and choose the one that you like best! If you want to pick among olive oils like the Italians do, however, here are some tasting tips. First of all, you must know that there are three distinct categories of extra-virgin olive oil and each of these is best suited to specific dishes and preparations. The categories are * Mild The light, buttery, sweet taste of these oils pairs perfectly with raw meats and carpaccio, broiled and grilled fish, raw, cooked or steamed vegetables, soups and pasta sauces. It's also good with cheeses, and is especially good in dishes for children. * Fruity These oils have a slightly stronger and fruitier flavor that complements grilled meats, pastas or rice in relatively mild sauces, cooked vegetables and bruschetta. It pairs nicely with garlic sauces and mild cheeses as well. * Fruity-Spicy The aggressive taste of these oils is ideal for accompanying rustic, traditional dishes like the panzanella, the Tuscan bread and tomato salad; ribollita, the Tuscan vegetable soup; and pasta e fagioli, or pasta with beans. To distinguish these oils from one another, you should train your palate and your senses in more than one tasting session. As in other types of sensatory (color, aroma and flavor)
assessments, such as for wine tasting, olive oil tasting should be carried out in a controlled environment. Although it is fun to engage in a tasting with friends or family, it is best performed alone to avoid distractions, at least 1 hour after the last meal (but not when you're hungry, because hunger can distort the senses). Begin by purchasing a couple of top-quality extra-virgin olive oils produced in different parts of Italy along with one of inexpensive brand to compare. Tasting Steps * Pour no more than 15 ml into a disposable cup and cover it, with a small plate or a piece of paper, until you are ready to taste. * Hold the cup in your hands to warm it up and bring out the volatile scents of the oil, about 1 or 2 minutes. Look at the color. * Exhale, then uncover the oil and inhale the scent. This olfactory evaluation will give you first indications about the oil. Cover the cup again, then repeat. * Wet your lower lip with a bit of the oil, then asses it with your tongue. * Take a small sip. Roll the oil around in your mouth to determine its category: mild, fruity or fruity-spicy. This can be determined from the intensity of the spiciness on the sides of your tongue. Then determine its texture and flavor (see Technical Terms, below). * Taste each oil twice, but between tastings you should drink some sparkling mineral water or eat a slice of apple or a piece of bread to cleanse the palate. (Make sure to sip the water or eat apple or bread between tastings of different oils as well.) * Decide if you like it or not! Technical Terms * green, yellow, brown, transparent, glossy. * velvety, thick, sticky, runny. * Aroma and Flavor grassy, fruity, rancid, peppery, bitter, earthy, nutty, pungent. Pairing Olive Oil with Food Climatic conditions, olive varietals, harvesting methods and production processes are key to the particular quality of each extravirgin olive oil. Like all products of nature, extra-virgin olive oils are marvelously varied and are different in taste, color and fragrance in different regions. In general, olive oils from Liguria and the Lake Garda region in the Veneto are light, probably the lightest of all Italian olive oils; olive oils from Tuscany and Umbria tend to be fruitier and more robust; and olive oils from Sicily, Sardinia and Calabria are milder yet more full-bodied. Different producers from the same region offer widely different olive oils. Factors such as when and how the olives are picked, as well as the processing method, play a
significant
role
in
what
the
final
product
tastes
like.
Think of olive oil as you would wine. If you use a poor quality olive oil it will give your dish an off-taste, just like a bad wine would. As with wine, olive oil should be carefully paired with food. Consider the olive oil's flavor and aroma characteristics, making sure that these complement rather than overwhelm the food. As we have mentioned before, there are three broad flavor categories: mild, fruity and fruity-spicy--each suited to different preparations. When dressing delicate dishes and sauces without garlic, use a mild olive oil (which is also good for baking sweets). A fruity olive oil is ideal in pasta sauces with garlic, herbs, spices and salads. For grilled meats and roasts, aged cheeses, or dishes with generous amounts of garlic and spices, a fruity-spicy olive oil works best. Always taste an olive oil before cooking with it to decide what dish it will enhance most, remembering that, when used raw, the oil's flavor is more pronounced. How to Buy Olive Oil There are hundreds of extra-virgin olive oils on the market from different Italian regions, and most of them are quite good. But how do we choose one bottle over another? How many of us are buying a product because of its price or packaging rather than its content? Labels can say anything at all--and are sometimes misleading embellishments or contain outright false statements. Basics It's very important to choose a good quality olive oil if our goal is to dress food and highlight its character and distinctiveness. Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve with age. It should be consumed within its first year before it loses all its sensory qualities. To be sure of its freshness, check the harvest year, which should be printed on the label. Each olive oil has different characteristics, depending on where the trees were planted, the type of cultivar (tree) planted, how ripe the olives were when they were picked, how they were picked and how they were processed. Location Among the chief producers of extra-virgin olive oil are Spain and Italy. Other Mediterranean countries like Greece, Turkey, Morocco, Algeria and France are also large producers. Argentina, Australia, Chile, the United States and South Africa all grow olives
as well. All Italian regions produce excellent and varied olive oils, with the exception of the Northern regions, which produce no oil. Season Olives picked early in the season yield a fruity olive oil, while olives picked in the middle of the season yield an olive with harmonic flavor. On the other hand, olives harvested late in the season tend to yield a gentle olive oil. Some of us prefer fruity olive oils, others are partial to milder ones. There is no right or wrong: the only thing that matters is quality. Of course, different olive oils are better suited to different dishes, so that a fruity olive oil on a steamed fish might be a little excessive, and a mild olive oil on a sauté redolent with garlic would be overshadowed. Storing Olive oil should be stored in a closed container, away from heat or light. Correctly stored, good oil has a shelf life of 12 to 18 months. Do not store oil in the refrigerator, however. If you do, it will congeal and acquire a gel-like consistency. Just leave it at room temperature for half an hour, and it will return to its previous texture. Filtered vs. Unfiltered The terms "filtered" and "unfiltered" can apply to any type of olive oil, extra-virgin or otherwise. Whether you prefer filtered or unfiltered is an entirely personal choice, since filtering actually does not affect the taste of the oil, nor is it an indicator of the oil's quality. You should be able to tell the difference just from looking at the bottle: * Unfiltered oil is more opaque because it still contains tiny suspended particles of the fruit. They will sink to the bottom with time, creating some sediment. * Filtering is performed by passing the oil through a thick layer of cotton wool, which traps the small particles of fruit, leaving a clearer liquid. Virgin and Extra-Virgin Olive Oil "Virgin olive oil" denotes oil obtained from the fruit of the olive tree solely by mechanical processes or other means that cause no alteration or deterioration through heat or chemical interaction. Therefore, the oil must not have been subjected to any treatment other than that of washing, centrifugation, and filtration. The best oils, those called"extra-virgin," are cold-pressed. Coldpressing is a chemical-free process that involves only pressure, which produces a natural level of low acidity.
Climate, soil, variety of olive tree and time of harvest account for the different "organoleptic" properties of different olive oils. These properties refer to the oil's flavor, bouquet and color. The term comes from the Greek organon (tool) and leptos (fine), and usually refers to the instant when all the senses are employed in a food's assessment. Differences Between Extra-Virgin, Fine Virgin, and Ordinary Virgin Olive Oil Extra-virgin olive oils must have an acidity of less than 1 percent. The organoleptic properties must rate at least 6.5 on an Italian tasting panel's scale of 1 to 10. Virgin olive oils, on the other hand, may have an acidity between 1 and 2 percent. Their organoleptic values must score 5.5 or higher. There are other requirements for each of these designations, as well. The International Olive Oil Council assigned different designations to virgin olive oil: Extra-Virgin Olive Oil is virgin olive oil that has a minimum organoleptic rating of 6.5 out of 10 and low acidity. It is the oil of the highest quality, and boasts a perfect, fruity taste, while its color can range from crystalline champagne to greenish-golden or bright green. Extra-Virgin Olive Oil can be used in endless ways in the kitchen, and in Italy it has been a traditional ingredient in everything from antipasti to desserts. It is best used raw in salads, in order to enjoy its real flavor. Because of the timeconsuming process required to manufacture extra-virgin oil, and its limited production volume, true extra-virgin olive oils are expensive. Thus, any inexpensive olive oil labeled "extra-virgin" is probably not authentic. Below Extra-Virgin Olive Oil we find Fine Virgin Olive Oil. Like extra-virgin oil, it is also cold-pressed. It has an organoleptic rating of 5.5 or more and an acidity of 1.5 percent or less. Quality oils are obtained when the olives are crushed as quickly as possible, since any storage would trigger a fermentation process in the fruit, making the oil produced increasingly acidic and undesirable in both flavor and aroma. Semi-Fine or Ordinary Virgin Olive Oil only has an organoleptic rating of 3.5 or more and acidity of 3.3 percent or less. When properly processed, Ordinary Virgin Olive Oil maintains the purity of the fruit's flavor, aroma, and vitamins. The International Olive Oil Institute recommends using pure olive oil for frying, since the flavor of extra-virgin olive oil tends to break down at frying temperatures. Testing to Determine Whether an Olive Oil is Extra-Virgin Place a small quantity of the oil in a glass bowl and refrigerate it for a few days. If it becomes crystalline, it is very likely a true extra-virgin olive oil. If it forms a block, it is most likely a chemically refined oil that has had some first-pressed oil added to it.
Preserving and Storing Olive Oil All oils, especially extra-virgin olive oils and other unrefined oils, are best stored away from heat and light. At the mill, the oil produced has to be stored for a relatively long period until it is sold. The best storage tanks are made of materials to protect the oil from air and light, and are kept at relatively constant temperatures. The oil should be kept indoors in covered stainless steel tanks or steel-plated tanks lined with epoxy or similar safe resins. However, if the tanks are stored outdoors, they should be coated with an external lining to prevent extreme changes in temperature. In all cases, the tanks should have slanted or conical bottoms that allow for drainage of accumulated impurities. All oils intended for human consumption are prepared under proper hygienic conditions and packed in metal cans and tins lined with suitable varnishes, and in glass bottles. The containers have to be filled to at least 90% capacity so that no harmful air pockets are left. Each container bears a label stating both the generic and the specific designation of the oil, its acidity level expressed in degrees, its net content expressed in weight or volume, the name of the bottler, manufacturer or distributor, and the country of origin Extra-virgin olive oil is at its best when it is just pressed because this is when its character and flavor profile are most distinct, and the oil's taste is most intense. Olive oil should be consumed as quickly as possible or it will start oxidizing and consequently decline in quality and taste. The oxidation curve is sharper for mild olive oil, meaning that once bottled it will remain palatable for less time. All olive oils will inevitably become stale and rancid over time, but the process can take up to three years. Fruity-spicy olive oil stays good the longest. At home, to preserve the freshness of your precious bottle of extra-virgin olive oil for as long as possible, store it in a cool, dark spot - ideally, a cabinet far from the stove. Olive oil can be refrigerated but it solidifies, so it should be taken out a few minutes to return to room temperature before use. Tinted glass, porcelain, or stainless steel are the best materials for storing oil, which should never be stored in plastic or in reactive metals
Cultivars In Italy, there are more than 350 types of olive trees, or "cultivars." Through the centuries, many types of olives have been selected deliberately and maintained through cultivation. These "cultivars" are difficult to classify because of the many different names given to the same plant in different regions and countries. Italy's National Center for Research (CNR) is currently growing about 850 different cultivars for such diverse purposes as flowers, wood, table olives, and oil production. The type of olive tree affects the oil's flavor and the yield, which is also influenced by latitude, climate, and terrain. In general, olives from Southern Italy produce the most oil per tree: An average tree in Apulia yields about 20 liters of oil, while a tree from Tuscany will only yield a liter or so. The following is a list of some of the most popular Italian cultivars that can be found in American supermarkets and gourmet stores. * Frantoio - Native to Tuscany, this cultivar can be found throughout Italy and in almost all the olive growing countries of the world. Its widespread cultivation is explained by its consistently high yield and, above all, by its high quality and the refined, aromatic, savory oil that it produces. Unfortunately, these olives have a low resistance to adverse weather conditions and they ripen late in the season. * Moraiolo - Another Tuscan cultivar, Moraiolo is also spread throughout Italy and other olive producing Mediterranean countries. This type of olive has a high oil content and the oil produced has a flavorful and powerful taste. Its tolerance to weather conditions and wind is high and the olives ripen at mid-season. * Leccino - Found all around Italy, Leccino olives fill the tables of many Italians both in fruit and oil form. Particularly noted for the tree's tolerance to adverse weather conditions and some common diseases. It gives a consistently high yield. * Pendolino - Another Tuscan variety, these olive trees adorn the immediate area surrounding Florence. The delicious olives ripen at mid-season and produce an exquisite olive oil that pairs perfectly with local specialties and other rich dishes. * Bella di Cerignola - Native of Apulia, these huge green or black olives are characterized by a sweet taste and soft flesh. The black ones are more flavorful and easier to pit than the green, which have a denser texture. They are delicious eaten in a colorful and rich antipasto dish, maybe accompanied by the small, black, wrinkled, and salt-cured Gaeta olives. Remember that the flavor of different olive oils is affected by different factors, even within the same variety-the region and the climate where they're grown, when and how the olives are harvested, the temperature at which they are stored, the material of the container in which they are stored, and how long they stay on the market shelf. Try all the different kinds you can, then pick your own favorite!
How Olive Oil is made Harvesting Production of olive oil begins with the harvest, the timing of which is a major factor in determining the quality of the final product. The picking of the olives starts as early as September, when the olives are under ripe and still green. They yield little oil, but their flavor is intense.These oils have the longest shelf life and are richer flavor and aroma. Oils from olives harvested early have low acidity and the typical deep green color of Tuscan oils. Harvests generally happen between early November and late December. Some olives are harvested in the red-ripe stage and blended with the earlier harvested oil to create a more balanced product. In general, the oils from fruit harvested in the black-ripe stage are of inferior quality, containing more acid and less flavor. Although, there are some black-ripe olive oils that can be quite good. The youngest green olives are hand-picked off the branches, whereas riper olives can be beaten or shaken down and collected beneath the trees. Since olives are delicate, the best oils are made from olives that are picked by hand or using machinery that does not beat or bruise the fruit. Milling and Pressing
Olives should be crushed within the first 24 or 36 hours of picking. If left to wait, the acidity level rises, creating olive oil of poor quality. Just before being crushed, the olives need to be run through a washer to eliminate any remaining impurities. Generally olives are crushed whole, without prior stoning in roller mills. The simplest method for crushing olives is with granite millstones of different kinds. The olive paste obtained through milling is layered on nylon or natural fiber mats, called fiscoli, which are stacked high, with metal disks between them. These mats of olive pulp are then subject to a great deal of pressure from a screw or hydraulic press. The liquid produced by the pressing drains through the mats and is collected. It's made up of water and oil that need to be separated from one another. The liquid is therefore put through a centrifugal separator, where the rapid spinning eliminates all remaining water and all of the impurities from the oil. After centrifugation, the oil appears amber in color, with an opaque quality-a characteristic feature of superior oils. The more acidic the oil, the clearer and brighter it appears, and the worse it is for your health. Oils processed by anything but centrifuges and mechanical or hydraulic presses cannot be called virgin olive oils.
Apulian Olive Oil The charming southern region of Apulia is home to the Gargano Peninsula and some of the finest olive oils in the world. Thanks to an ideal climate and a strong tradition of olive cultivation, the olive groves that stretch endlessly along the coast are responsible for a big portion of Italy's olive oil production. Ever since ancient times, when the olive tree was planted throughout the Mediterranean basin, Apulians have carefully cultivated the plant and extracted its juice. Apulian olive oils range from mild, light, and sweet to fruity-spicy, aggressive, and rustic, depending mostly on the cultivars used. The best way to savor Apulian olive oils and find your favorite is to dip a piece of the region's dense, delicious bread in a little olive oil, as the Ancient Romans used to do. If you aren't familiar with any Apulian olive oils, start with L'Olio di Peranzana, produced in a tiny hamlet called Torremaggiore. Made only with Peranzana and Rotondella olives, it is strong and flavorful, perfect for antipasti and cooked vegetables. Other Apulian varietals include: Coratina, Cima di Bitonto, Cellina di Nardó, and Cima di Mola. Ligurian Olive Oil Ligurian olive oils are renowned for being particularly mild in contrast to Tuscan or Apulian olive oils, which tend to be strong and fruity. The scarcity of plowed land restricts agriculture, and vines and olives must grow on barely accessible slopes terraced all the way down to the sea. However, the mild climate is very favorable to the growth of olive trees has been widespread for centuries. There are different theories on the origin of olive cultivation in Liguria. Some say that monks introduced it, others think that crusaders and explorers brought it from the Orient, and still others argue that Ligurians already were growing olive trees since the time of the Ancient Romans. The most extensive groves lie in the Eastern part of Liguria, mainly in the Imperia and Savona provinces. Here there are many cultivars, including the region's principal variety, the Taggiasca. Additional varieties include Lizona, Morino, Olivana, Razzola and Colombaia. Legend tells that olive oil from Imperia was introduced to the court of France by Caterina de' Medici on the suggestion of a Ligurian monk, who taught the sovereign to eat artichokes in pinzimonio (a simple dip of olive oil and salt).
Sicilian Olive Oil Olive oil is almost synonymous with Italian cooking, and nearly every region in Italy has its own homemade variation. Sicilian olive oil, however, may boast the oldest lineage, dating back to the 5th century B.C. Intrepid colonists from Greece were probably the first to plant olive trees in Sicily, starting around 500 BC. Thousands of acres of Sicilian soil are dedicated to olive groves, and the region produces about 10% of all Italian olive oil. The most common olives cultivated in Sicily are Carolea, Nocellara and Biancolilla. These olives tend to grow on shorter and bushier plants than their counterparts in other regions. Because the olive plants are shorter and the olive fruits are easier to reach, Sicilian olive oil producers are often able to use a more careful hand-harvest procedure, which is far less damaging to the plants than mechanical harvesting. There are currently four certified olive growing zones in Sicily (also knows as "DOP"s, or protected denomination of origin zones). Two more areas are waiting for certification. Sicilian olive oil tends to be strongly flavored and spicy, and it usually has a pronounced grassy fragrance. Tuscan Olive Oil Following the fall of the Roman Empire, agricultural production and commercialization practically disappeared and the cultivation of olive trees was reduced immensely. During the Middle Ages, it was mainly the convents that owned the major olive plantations, before the local communes started to take interest in producing olive oil once again. While Venice and Genoa were fighting over the control of commerce and trade, Florence, which owned no ports, was the ruler of the production and distribution of olive oil. The commerce of olive oil quickly increased in economic importance since it was necessary for nourishment and soap making; by the 1300s, olive oil had become an instrument of great economic and political value. In Tuscany, the Medici family encouraged olive cultivation by renting fields on the hills at low prices to each commune of Florence devote to olive or grape growing. This is how the typical Tuscan landscape came about. The types of olives that are usually cultivated in modern-day Tuscany are Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino and Pendolino. Frantoio is native of Tuscany but has spread throughout the Italian peninsula. Its cultivation is widespread because it produces an extremely fine, agreeable and aromatic olive oil. Moraiolo, Leccino, and Pendolino varietals also make a flavorful olive oil and, as opposed to the Frantoio varietal, have a longer endurance to temperature and weather fluctuations.
a
The use of butter in Tuscan cooking is very rare, since olive oil has almost totally replaced butter. Oil is often added raw to already cooked dishes, like roasted beef just out of the oven, still-smoking steak, bread soups, and boiled beans. The heat emanating from the food helps the volatile components of the olive oil to free themselves, giving off a delicious fragrance. Try it and let us know if you enjoy olive oil the Tuscan way!